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Mechanisms of Water-Wave Breaking

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Breaking Waves

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Abstract

The fluid mechanics of wave breaking is discussed, selecting only aspects involved directly in the wave breaking process rather than wave evolution towards breaking or the effects of breaking. As well as plunging and spilling breakers other less usual topics are considered including examples where the free surface “breaks” at a trough rather than a crest.

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Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Department of Mathematics, University of Bristol, Bristol, BS8 1TW, England

    D. H. Peregrine

Authors
  1. D. H. Peregrine
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Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

  1. School of Mathematics, University of New South Wales, Kensington, New South Wales, Australia

    Michael L. Banner  & Roger H. J. Grimshaw  & 

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© 1992 Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg

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Peregrine, D.H. (1992). Mechanisms of Water-Wave Breaking. In: Banner, M.L., Grimshaw, R.H.J. (eds) Breaking Waves. International Union of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84847-6_3

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-84847-6_3

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg

  • Print ISBN: 978-3-642-84849-0

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-642-84847-6

  • eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive

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