In this study, the relationship between fabric bending rigidity and yarn properties such as yarn ... more In this study, the relationship between fabric bending rigidity and yarn properties such as yarn bending rigidity and yarn torsional rigidity was investigated. The Cooper model was verified and the effect of crimp on yarn torsional rigidity was investigated. This study can be used to improve the simulation of textiles properties. In Chapter 1, a background of the work on fabric and yarn properties was given. Chapter 2 exposed a literature review of the previous studies and published papers on the subject of yarn properties and assessment and presented the general mechanical theories regarding bending properties of fabric as well as torsional and bending rigidity of yarns. The existing methods of assessment of this properties were also developed in this chapter. In Chapter 3, the effect of yarn torsional rigidity on the Cooper model for fabric bending rigidity in any direction was verified. Five commercial fabrics were first used as experimental samples. Then, an additional five cott...
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2019
Purpose The purpose of this paper is to create a fabric retrieval system for designers that is ba... more Purpose The purpose of this paper is to create a fabric retrieval system for designers that is based on a database that includes designers’ criteria and Kansei (sense and feeling) information, designed for the selection of a fabric from a wide range in e-commerce. Design/methodology/approach The database included sensory expressions for each type of fabric taken from fashion journals and values of smoothness, softness, luster and thinness (referred to as Kansei values) for each fabric. The Kansei values were determined by a Japanese expert designer using standard fabric samples of a fabric type. The system uses two search methods to find the desired type of fabric: a category search method and a free word search method. After finding appropriate types of fabric, the user further narrows down the fabrics of the selected type to more suitable fabrics using the Kansei values. The validity of the Kansei values and the effectiveness of the system were verified by 11 professional designer...
The effect of crimp on torsional rigidity of monofilament and cotton spun yarns was studied. Two ... more The effect of crimp on torsional rigidity of monofilament and cotton spun yarns was studied. Two kinds of polymeric monofilament yarns and four kinds of cotton spun yarns were examined. Different crimps were applied to the yarn using original crimp setting equipment. To fix the crimp, the polymeric monofilaments were treated with heat, and the cotton spun yarns were treated with steam. The test samples were then produced following two protocols: with or without the application of weight. The yarn torsional rigidities with crimp were measured using a torsional measurement device, and were compared with those without crimp. Almost no weight was applied to the cotton spun yarns to preserve the crimp during testing. The results with and without the application of weight were compared. For the monofilament yarns, the torsional rigidities of the crimped yarns had a linear relationship with the crimp ratio. For the cotton spun yarns, the torsional rigidities of the crimped yarns were small...
We proposed a new method for measuring apparent Poisson’s ratio for yarn and developed a new tens... more We proposed a new method for measuring apparent Poisson’s ratio for yarn and developed a new tensile tester equipped with a digital micrometer that can measure the omni-directional diameter of the yarn annularly while the yarn is elongated. Values of apparent Poisson’s ratio were obtained from the longitudinal and transverse strains continuously. The mean diameter measured omni-directionally was used to calculate the transverse strain for each longitudinal strain. We tested five spun yarns, one monofilament yarn and two filament yarns and obtained values of apparent Poisson’s ratio against longitudinal strain for all samples. Apparent Poisson’s ratio was not constant for spun and filament yarns, while it was constant for monofilament yarn. When the longitudinal strain was low, apparent Poisson’s ratios of ring spun yarns and filament yarns were large, owing to the fiber packing density. As the longitudinal strain increased, apparent Poisson’s ratio gradually decreased. Furthermore, ...
In this study, the relationship between fabric bending rigidity and yarn properties such as yarn ... more In this study, the relationship between fabric bending rigidity and yarn properties such as yarn bending rigidity and yarn torsional rigidity was investigated. The Cooper model was verified and the effect of crimp on yarn torsional rigidity was investigated. This study can be used to improve the simulation of textiles properties. In Chapter 1, a background of the work on fabric and yarn properties was given. Chapter 2 exposed a literature review of the previous studies and published papers on the subject of yarn properties and assessment and presented the general mechanical theories regarding bending properties of fabric as well as torsional and bending rigidity of yarns. The existing methods of assessment of this properties were also developed in this chapter. In Chapter 3, the effect of yarn torsional rigidity on the Cooper model for fabric bending rigidity in any direction was verified. Five commercial fabrics were first used as experimental samples. Then, an additional five cott...
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2019
Purpose The purpose of this paper is to create a fabric retrieval system for designers that is ba... more Purpose The purpose of this paper is to create a fabric retrieval system for designers that is based on a database that includes designers’ criteria and Kansei (sense and feeling) information, designed for the selection of a fabric from a wide range in e-commerce. Design/methodology/approach The database included sensory expressions for each type of fabric taken from fashion journals and values of smoothness, softness, luster and thinness (referred to as Kansei values) for each fabric. The Kansei values were determined by a Japanese expert designer using standard fabric samples of a fabric type. The system uses two search methods to find the desired type of fabric: a category search method and a free word search method. After finding appropriate types of fabric, the user further narrows down the fabrics of the selected type to more suitable fabrics using the Kansei values. The validity of the Kansei values and the effectiveness of the system were verified by 11 professional designer...
The effect of crimp on torsional rigidity of monofilament and cotton spun yarns was studied. Two ... more The effect of crimp on torsional rigidity of monofilament and cotton spun yarns was studied. Two kinds of polymeric monofilament yarns and four kinds of cotton spun yarns were examined. Different crimps were applied to the yarn using original crimp setting equipment. To fix the crimp, the polymeric monofilaments were treated with heat, and the cotton spun yarns were treated with steam. The test samples were then produced following two protocols: with or without the application of weight. The yarn torsional rigidities with crimp were measured using a torsional measurement device, and were compared with those without crimp. Almost no weight was applied to the cotton spun yarns to preserve the crimp during testing. The results with and without the application of weight were compared. For the monofilament yarns, the torsional rigidities of the crimped yarns had a linear relationship with the crimp ratio. For the cotton spun yarns, the torsional rigidities of the crimped yarns were small...
We proposed a new method for measuring apparent Poisson’s ratio for yarn and developed a new tens... more We proposed a new method for measuring apparent Poisson’s ratio for yarn and developed a new tensile tester equipped with a digital micrometer that can measure the omni-directional diameter of the yarn annularly while the yarn is elongated. Values of apparent Poisson’s ratio were obtained from the longitudinal and transverse strains continuously. The mean diameter measured omni-directionally was used to calculate the transverse strain for each longitudinal strain. We tested five spun yarns, one monofilament yarn and two filament yarns and obtained values of apparent Poisson’s ratio against longitudinal strain for all samples. Apparent Poisson’s ratio was not constant for spun and filament yarns, while it was constant for monofilament yarn. When the longitudinal strain was low, apparent Poisson’s ratios of ring spun yarns and filament yarns were large, owing to the fiber packing density. As the longitudinal strain increased, apparent Poisson’s ratio gradually decreased. Furthermore, ...
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