2015. Wave energy resource at bimep (Basque coast). Revista de Investigación Marina, AZTI, 22(4):... more 2015. Wave energy resource at bimep (Basque coast). Revista de Investigación Marina, AZTI, 22(4): 65-75 La serie 'Revista de Investigación Marina', editada por la Unidad de Investigación Marina de AZTI, cuenta con el siguiente Comité
ABSTRACT De Santiago, I., Morichon, D., Abadie, S., Castelle, B., Liria, P. and Epelde, I., 2013.... more ABSTRACT De Santiago, I., Morichon, D., Abadie, S., Castelle, B., Liria, P. and Epelde, I., 2013. Video observation of the morphodynamics of nearshore sandbars on a partially engineered embayed beach. Embayed beaches are prevalent environments along the northern Spanish coastline. The present work analyses the temporal and spatial variability of nearshore sandbars on the pocket beach of Zarautz using daily video observations over 2 years. This partially urbanized beach can be divided into two well defined distinct areas: a natural section backed by a sand dune system to the East and an engineered section with rigid seawalls to the West. The objective of the present work is to evaluate if the engineered and natural sections of the beach present different morphological behaviors. The video image analysis was performed in two steps: First, sand bars were characterized visually and classified following standard classification schemes. Then, the outer sand bar migration was measured using automatic bar detection. Results show that the nearshore sandbars evolution covers a wide range of temporal and spatial variability. A noteworthy exception is the persistent presence of headland rips. The beach is mostly double-barred, with both bars able to go through all the states within the intermediate classification. The most common double bar morphological configuration is an inner low tide terrace coupled to well-developed megacusps, with an outer subtidal crescentic bar. Various preferred locations of rip channel formation are identified along the beach, suggesting that the effects of the headlands can propagate far away from the headlands towards the center of the embayment. Interestingly, the western engineered and more sheltered section of the beach sometimes exhibits a different beach state to that of the eastern section.
The Basque coastal area, in the southeastern Bay of Biscay, can be characterised as being strongl... more The Basque coastal area, in the southeastern Bay of Biscay, can be characterised as being strongly influenced by land climate. This, together with the presence of irregular and steep topography, complicates considerably the coastal water circulation patterns. Time-series of hourly currents, surface atmospheric pressure and wind data were analysed for two coastal stations. This research quantified the contribution of gravitational
... (201027. Galparsoro, I., Borja, Á., Legorburu, I., Hernández, C., Chust, G., Liria, P. and Ur... more ... (201027. Galparsoro, I., Borja, Á., Legorburu, I., Hernández, C., Chust, G., Liria, P. and Uriarte, A. 2010. ... Wave climate evolution in the Bay of Biscay over two decades. Journal of Marine Systems , 63(3–4): 105–114. [CrossRef], [Web of Science ®] View all references). ...
High energy events can cause coastal erosion on san dy beaches. The shore response to such events... more High energy events can cause coastal erosion on san dy beaches. The shore response to such events is de pendent on both external factors (e.g. wave characteristics) a nd intrinsic factors (e.g. beach state). In the pre sent work the response of an embayed/engineered beach to high energy events is studied. For that, systemically designed topog raphic surveys were undertaken before and after storm events. The data collected during those surveys were used to es timate the volumetric gain and loses along the beach and to cr eate intertidal maps by combining video monitoring images and field measured data. Results show that there is not a clear difference at the limit of the engineered a nd natural sections. However, profile and video observations of the diff erent sections of the beach indicate the existence of an alongshore variable response of the system.
Hourly and 12 km horizontal resolution wind fields simulated by the WRF model (Weather Research a... more Hourly and 12 km horizontal resolution wind fields simulated by the WRF model (Weather Research and Forecasting model) have been used to force the WAM model (WAve prediction Model), for a wave hindcast run in the southeastern Bay of Biscay. Three-hourly boundary conditions (defined by directional wave spectra) were provided by the WAVEWATCH III model, run by NOAA. The year 2009 was selected to analyse the performance of both wind and wave models in determining the parameters needed to estimate the wave energy resource. Model results were compared with available observations of six ocean-meteorological stations located in the area of interest. The WRF model was able to reproduce the time evolution of the offshore wind fields with a reasonable accuracy (a mean value of r 2 >0.6). However, close to the coastline, the analysis suggests that a higherhorizontal resolution configuration would be a more appropriate tool to estimate winds. Regarding the WAM model, the significant wave hei...
Traditional top-down and technocratic approaches seem to be insufficient to tackle the many confl... more Traditional top-down and technocratic approaches seem to be insufficient to tackle the many conflicts related to the sustainable use of natural resources. At the same time, reductionist and mono-disciplinary approaches lack the capacity to capture the complex interactions within ...
2015. Wave energy resource at bimep (Basque coast). Revista de Investigación Marina, AZTI, 22(4):... more 2015. Wave energy resource at bimep (Basque coast). Revista de Investigación Marina, AZTI, 22(4): 65-75 La serie 'Revista de Investigación Marina', editada por la Unidad de Investigación Marina de AZTI, cuenta con el siguiente Comité
ABSTRACT De Santiago, I., Morichon, D., Abadie, S., Castelle, B., Liria, P. and Epelde, I., 2013.... more ABSTRACT De Santiago, I., Morichon, D., Abadie, S., Castelle, B., Liria, P. and Epelde, I., 2013. Video observation of the morphodynamics of nearshore sandbars on a partially engineered embayed beach. Embayed beaches are prevalent environments along the northern Spanish coastline. The present work analyses the temporal and spatial variability of nearshore sandbars on the pocket beach of Zarautz using daily video observations over 2 years. This partially urbanized beach can be divided into two well defined distinct areas: a natural section backed by a sand dune system to the East and an engineered section with rigid seawalls to the West. The objective of the present work is to evaluate if the engineered and natural sections of the beach present different morphological behaviors. The video image analysis was performed in two steps: First, sand bars were characterized visually and classified following standard classification schemes. Then, the outer sand bar migration was measured using automatic bar detection. Results show that the nearshore sandbars evolution covers a wide range of temporal and spatial variability. A noteworthy exception is the persistent presence of headland rips. The beach is mostly double-barred, with both bars able to go through all the states within the intermediate classification. The most common double bar morphological configuration is an inner low tide terrace coupled to well-developed megacusps, with an outer subtidal crescentic bar. Various preferred locations of rip channel formation are identified along the beach, suggesting that the effects of the headlands can propagate far away from the headlands towards the center of the embayment. Interestingly, the western engineered and more sheltered section of the beach sometimes exhibits a different beach state to that of the eastern section.
The Basque coastal area, in the southeastern Bay of Biscay, can be characterised as being strongl... more The Basque coastal area, in the southeastern Bay of Biscay, can be characterised as being strongly influenced by land climate. This, together with the presence of irregular and steep topography, complicates considerably the coastal water circulation patterns. Time-series of hourly currents, surface atmospheric pressure and wind data were analysed for two coastal stations. This research quantified the contribution of gravitational
... (201027. Galparsoro, I., Borja, Á., Legorburu, I., Hernández, C., Chust, G., Liria, P. and Ur... more ... (201027. Galparsoro, I., Borja, Á., Legorburu, I., Hernández, C., Chust, G., Liria, P. and Uriarte, A. 2010. ... Wave climate evolution in the Bay of Biscay over two decades. Journal of Marine Systems , 63(3–4): 105–114. [CrossRef], [Web of Science ®] View all references). ...
High energy events can cause coastal erosion on san dy beaches. The shore response to such events... more High energy events can cause coastal erosion on san dy beaches. The shore response to such events is de pendent on both external factors (e.g. wave characteristics) a nd intrinsic factors (e.g. beach state). In the pre sent work the response of an embayed/engineered beach to high energy events is studied. For that, systemically designed topog raphic surveys were undertaken before and after storm events. The data collected during those surveys were used to es timate the volumetric gain and loses along the beach and to cr eate intertidal maps by combining video monitoring images and field measured data. Results show that there is not a clear difference at the limit of the engineered a nd natural sections. However, profile and video observations of the diff erent sections of the beach indicate the existence of an alongshore variable response of the system.
Hourly and 12 km horizontal resolution wind fields simulated by the WRF model (Weather Research a... more Hourly and 12 km horizontal resolution wind fields simulated by the WRF model (Weather Research and Forecasting model) have been used to force the WAM model (WAve prediction Model), for a wave hindcast run in the southeastern Bay of Biscay. Three-hourly boundary conditions (defined by directional wave spectra) were provided by the WAVEWATCH III model, run by NOAA. The year 2009 was selected to analyse the performance of both wind and wave models in determining the parameters needed to estimate the wave energy resource. Model results were compared with available observations of six ocean-meteorological stations located in the area of interest. The WRF model was able to reproduce the time evolution of the offshore wind fields with a reasonable accuracy (a mean value of r 2 >0.6). However, close to the coastline, the analysis suggests that a higherhorizontal resolution configuration would be a more appropriate tool to estimate winds. Regarding the WAM model, the significant wave hei...
Traditional top-down and technocratic approaches seem to be insufficient to tackle the many confl... more Traditional top-down and technocratic approaches seem to be insufficient to tackle the many conflicts related to the sustainable use of natural resources. At the same time, reductionist and mono-disciplinary approaches lack the capacity to capture the complex interactions within ...
Uploads
Papers by P. Liria