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代官山&並木橋
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エレガント
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アミューズ
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とうもろこしのムース
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アントレ
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鶏
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パテカン
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熟成
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マスタード
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友人の野菜のテリーヌ
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バター
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プチバゲット
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スープは
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モンサンミシェルのムール
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ポタージュ
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全粒粉
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カダイフにまかれた
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アオダイのポアレ
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アメリケーヌ
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デセールは
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桃
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ブ-ルドネージュ
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アイスコーヒー↑
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テリーヌされています
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歩道橋から
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代官山にある「les enfants gates(レザンファンギャテ)」。
2007年4月オープン、店名は、「わがままに育った子どもたち」の意。ミシュランで13年連続で星を獲っています。
シェフの松澤直紀氏は、幼少時よりモノづくりを好み、食のもつ「残ることのない儚さ」に惹かれて料理の道へ。美しさを放つさまざまなテリーヌたち。直径10数センチ四方の中にフランス料理のエスプリと食材の瞬味を閉じ込めた小宇宙的料理は、従来の価値観を覆す味わい。
ランチのコースから、MENU Bonne Terrine ムニュ ボンヌ テリーヌ
コレクシオン・ドゥ・テリーヌは、定番の品や季節の8種類のテリーヌから。本日のテリーヌ【フランス産子ウサギと豚足のゼリー寄せテリーヌ】メインは魚(アオダイ)かお肉(鴨)から一種。
私が【長期熟成をかけた定番の田舎風~レザンファンギャテのスペシャリテ】友人は【契約農家より取り寄せた、20種類の野菜】メインはお魚。
【乾杯】
「オレッツア」
【Amuse-Bouche】
「トウモロコシのムース」
アイスの最中の皮のようなタルト皿の上にとうもろこしのムース。
【Pettit-Terrine】
「鶏胸肉の季節の小さなテリーヌ」
鶏むね肉とドライトマトのテリーヌにパプリカのムースをのせ、下に敷いたソースは、バジルとキューリ、ミント、ヨーグルトのソース。
【パン】
「パン」
プチバゲットと全粒粉のパン。スタイルブレッドと思われる。
【Potage】
【モンサンミシェル産ムール貝とモロヘイヤのポタージュ】
具にはたっぷりのムール貝が入っていて、ボリュームもたっぷりです。貝のフリッカッセに近い感じです。
【スペシャリテ】
「最低2週間熟成させたシェフ自慢の田舎風テリーヌ 自家製ピクルスとポルト酒風味のジュレ」。
鶏のレバー、豚肉、フォアグラ等を合わせ周りを網脂で敷いたテリーヌ。2週間以上熟成をかけたレザンファンギャテのスペシャリテ。ポルト酒とコンソメで作った、旨みたっぷりのジュレとマスタードを添えて。クセがなくて、しっとりした滑らかさと深みのある旨味に仕上げてあります。
【メイン】
「カダイフで巻いたアオダイのポワレ、甲殻類とバジルのソース・ポワロ-ジョンヌ・生ハム」
アオダイのポワレにグルグルとカダイフを巻きつけ、上からバジルとオマール海老とビネガーのソース、というか濃ゆいアメリケーヌソース。ふわふわの身に魚介の濃厚な旨み!の相乗効果。カダイフって食べる際、痛いから好まないけど、こちらのはギューッと巻き付けてあったので食べやすかった。
【デザート】
「びわのコンポート&ココナッツソルベ」
桃とフランボワーズ(木苺)のテリーヌに、自家製バニラアイスクリームと薄く焼いた桃のテュイルをのせ、ピスタチオ入りアングレーズソースの組み合わせ。フランス料理のデセールらしい印象深い一皿。
【ミニャルデイーズ】
「ブールドネージュ」
レモンとアーモンドのクッキー。
【ドリンク】
「コーヒー」
キレイさが勝っていて味の印象がちょっと弱いところもあったけれど、とにかく綺麗で飽きることがなかった。次はどんなテリーヌかと、わくわく心が弾むようなお時間でした。
ちなみにパリにもLes Terrines de Gérard Vié。テリーヌ三昧のレストランがあります。