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The Huldremose Iron Age textiles, Denmark: an
attempt to define their provenance applying
the strontium isotope system
Article in Journal of Archaeological Science · September 2009
DOI: 10.1016/j.jas.2009.05.007
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Journal of Archaeological Science 36 (2009) 1965–1971
Contents lists available at ScienceDirect
Journal of Archaeological Science
journal homepage: http://www.elsevier.com/locate/jas
The Huldremose Iron Age textiles, Denmark: an attempt to define their
provenance applying the strontium isotope system
Karin Margarita Frei a, b, *, Irene Skals c, Margarita Gleba a, Henriette Lyngstrøm b
a
The Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, SAXO Institute, University of Copenhagen, Njalsgade 80, DK 2300 Copenhagen, Denmark
SAXO Institute, Department of Archaeology, University of Copenhagen, Njalsgade 80, DK 2300 Copenhagen, Denmark
c
National Museum of Denmark, Conservation Department, IC Modewegvej, Brede, 2800 Kgs. Lyngby, Denmark
b
a r t i c l e i n f o
a b s t r a c t
Article history:
Received 16 February 2009
Received in revised form
5 May 2009
Accepted 17 May 2009
Archaeological textiles recovered on two occasions from the Huldremose bog, Denmark, represent some
of the best preserved and complete garments from the Danish Iron Age (500 BC–AD 800). In order to
address the question regarding the provenance of the textile’s raw material, we applied a recently
developed method based on strontium isotopes to wool and plant fibres from these ancient garments.
Textile plant fibres from Huldremose I find are of non-local provenance, whereas the wool from which
the garment was made stemmed from sheep grazing on glaciomoraine soils developed on Cretaceous–
Tertiary carbonate platform sediments widely found in Denmark. The Huldremose II find consists of an
unusually large and well preserved garment, which is composed of wool from at least three different
provenances. One source is again local, whereas the other two sources, characterized by elevated
87
Sr/86Sr ratios, are compatible with geologically older (Precambrian) terrains which are typical for
Northern Scandinavia, e.g. Norway or Sweden. Our study suggests that wool and plant fibres were either
traded or brought as raw materials for textiles more commonly and over longer distances than previously
assumed.
Ó 2009 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
Keywords:
Strontium isotopes
Wool
Plant fibre
Provenance
Textiles
Huldremose
Iron Age
1. Introduction
New methods and new approaches to the investigation of
archaeological textiles are evolving into an important field
of textile research. Archaeological textile studies address issues
ranging from aesthetics and style to gender, from technological
development to production and trading (Good, 2001). Recently we
developed a new method using strontium (Sr) isotopes, to study
the provenance of wool in archaeological textiles (Frei et al., 2009).
The Sr isotope system has already proven to be a good provenance
indicator, especially suitable for defining human and animal
migration routes (Ericson, 1985; Hoppe et al., 1999; Price et al.,
2001; Ezzo and Price, 2002; Grupe et al., 2003; Montgomery et al.,
2003; Hodell et al., 2004; Hobson, 2005; Knudson et al., 2005;
Bentley, 2006; Evans et al., 2006). In this paper we present the
results of the first case study applying Sr isotopes to ancient
textiles using the new method presented by Frei et al. (2009). Here
we choose important and well preserved textiles from two obvious
* Corresponding author. SAXO Institute, Department of Archaeology, University
of Copenhagen, Njalsgade 80, DK 2300 Copenhagen, Denmark. Tel.: þ45 39665423.
E-mail address: kmfrei@hum.ku.dk (K.M. Frei).
0305-4403/$ – see front matter Ó 2009 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
doi:10.1016/j.jas.2009.05.007
finds from the Danish Iron Age (500 BC–AD 800) site Huldremose
in north-eastern Jutland. The primary aim was to study the variability of Sr isotopes within a single large garment and thereby to
investigate the system’s potential use for provenance definition. In
particular, we were interested in whether the well preserved and
completely intact Iron Age female costume was made from local or
imported wool. Furthermore we wanted to see whether the two
Huldremose textile finds are somehow linked with respect to their
wool provenance.
In order to answer the question regarding the homogeneity of
the raw material, we conducted a parallel study of modern sheep
wool from a single animal. As in migration studies, the question of
contamination at the site by e.g. percolating fluids or diagenetic
transformations is a crucial one (Price et al., 1992, 2001; Bentley,
2003, 2006; Grupe et al., 2003; Schweissing and Grupe, 2003). In
order to tackle this problem we sampled additional material from
the Huldremose Woman’s body to characterize the peat bog
environment. This was necessary because the Huldremose bog
was cleared at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th
century for fuel purposes. In addition to peat remnants we
discovered textile plant fibre remains during the re-examination
of the bog body and we also included them in our Sr isotopic
investigation.
1966
K.M. Frei et al. / Journal of Archaeological Science 36 (2009) 1965–1971
2. Huldremose finds
At the Huldremose bog, located in the north-eastern part of
Jutland, Denmark, textiles were recovered on two occasions. The
first one was in 1879 when the bog body of a woman (Lab. No.
K-1396; Sellevold et al., 1984) was found by peat diggers (Brøndsted,
1963; Glob, 1965; Sellevold et al., 1984; van der Plicht et al., 2004).
The body (today on display at the National Museum of Denmark and
hereafter referred to as Huldremose I find) was lying on its back
with the head oriented towards west and feet to the east. Her legs
were drawn up and the right arm was severed from the body, her
left arm was bent across the chest and tied to the torso (Brøndsted,
1963; Glob, 1965; Van der Sanden, 1966). The Huldremose Woman
was wearing several pieces of clothing, consisting of a chequered
skirt, a chequered scarf, and two skin capes. The find has been
recently 14C re-dated to 350–341 BC (Mannering et al., submitted for
publication), and wool textile fibres were analyzed for the potential
contents of dyestuffs. The latter study only revealed the presence of
rhamnetin in some of the tested fibres, which is thought to be of
local provenance (Vanden Berghe et al., in press).
Another object was recovered seventeen years later, only a few
meters away from where the Huldremose Woman’s bog body was
previously found. This wool textile is known in the literature as the
Huldremose peplos (hereafter referred to as Huldremose II find)
because of its peculiar cylindrical shape (Hald, 1980; Mannering
and Gleba, in preparation). The Huldremose II wool garment has
recently been 14C dated to 350–330 BC (Mannering et al., submitted
for publication) and studies aimed at identifying potential dyestuffs
were negative (Vanden Berghe et al., in press). Both Huldremose
finds therefore date to the Scandinavian Pre-Roman Iron Age
(500 BC–0).
3. Sampling
3.1. Modern wool samples
For the purpose of controlling the natural homogeneity of the
Sr isotopic composition of hair from a single animal, we collected
wool samples from a male sheep from a herd kept at the Lejre
Archaeological Experimental Centre, Denmark. The site is particularly suited for this study because it is kept isolated from the
surroundings, within a protected unfertilized area. The sheep
belongs to a rare sheep breed, the Gotland type, which is part of the
‘‘northern short tail’’ breed-grouping that is biologically closer to
more primitive ancient sheep (Walton, 1988). We collected a total
of five samples from different parts of the animal. A portion of wool
was removed ca. 2 cm from the root at the beginning of autumn
2008, when the fleece had reached its full length. Samples were
taken from the following body areas: the right upper part of the
back leg (BB), the right flank (HS), the lowest part of the back (BD),
the upper neck (ØN), and finally the top of the head (H) (see
Table 1) where Gotland sheep have a characteristic hair growth
(Hatting, 1993).
3.2. Archaeological samples
The archaeological samples belong to the two Huldremose finds.
From the Huldremose I find, we sampled a small piece of wool weft
thread from the chequered scarf (National Museum of Denmark,
Inv. No. C 3474). In addition, three textile plant fibres adhering to
the bog body were sampled and analyzed. The first two samples
(National Museum of Denmark, Inv. Nos. M 18862 and M 50465)
were collected from the Huldremose Woman’s bog body in 1977 by
B.B. Christensen and in 1988 by D. Robinson, respectively. Both
scientists were unaware of the fact that the material they sampled
contained textile threads made of plant fibre, since their aim was to
collect peat for palynological analyses. The third plant textile fibre
sample (P) was taken by the first author in winter 2007 from the
Huldremose Woman’s bog body at the Conservation Department,
Brede, National Museum of Denmark. We also analyzed a piece of
skin from the stomach area (S) of the Huldremose Woman’s bog
body, which was removed in previous examinations for physical
anthropological studies (Brothwell et al., 1990). Finally, two peat
samples (T1 and T2) were collected from the Huldremose woman’s
bog body from body parts which were flexed (from the detached
arm part and from between the legs) and therefore preserved some
of the original peat which surrounded the body when is was found.
From the Huldremose II find, the large tubular textile, a total of
11 pieces of wool thread, including both warp and weft (National
Museum of Denmark, Inv. No. D 3505), were collected in winter
2007 at the Conservation Department, Brede, National Museum of
Denmark.
4. Sample preparation and analysis
Our sample analytical protocol essentially follows, though with
some modifications regarding the acid exposure time during the
pretreatment, the one recently presented by Frei et al. (2009) for
wool fibres. In the following we only summarize the individual
treatment processes and refer to the above cited study for details.
4.1. Pretreatment
Wool, plant fibre and skin samples (usually few mg; Tables 1–3)
were exposed to dilute (20%) HF for 30–120 min in a 7 ml Teflon
beaker (SavillexÔ) placed in an ultrasonic bath at room temperature. Subsequently the wash from the residual material (the
material of interest) was pipetted off and the sample was rinsed
twice with 1 ml of deionised water (MilliQÔ). The combined
rinsing solution was transferred into a new Teflon beaker and
analyzed separately to allow for an isotopic comparison of the
removed Sr fraction with the residual material.
Slightly different precleaning was applied to the two peat
samples. There the samples were rinsed in dilute (0.05 N) HNO3
for 1 h.
4.2. Dissolution and ion chromatographic procedures
Prior to attacking the residual materials and drying down the
rinsing solutions, we added a highly enriched Sr spike (abundance
84
Sr ¼ 94%) to both respective subsets, with the exception of the two
peat samples. The residual wool, plant fibre and skin samples were
dissolved in a 1:1 mixture of 30% HNO3 (Seastar) and 30% H2O2
(Seastar). The samples typically decomposed within 15–30 min,
after which the solutions were dried down on a hotplate at 80 C.
The residues were then taken up in a few drops of 3N HNO3 and
loaded on glass extraction columns with a 0.2 ml stem volume
charged with intensively pre-cleaned mesh 50–100 SrSpecÔ
(Eichrome Inc.) resin. The elution recipe essentially followed that by
Horwitz et al. (1992), but scaled to our needs. Sr was eluted by pure
deionised water and then the elute was dried on a hotplate. Organic
compounds essentially passed through the resin during the 3 N
HNO3 rinsing steps, but some of them also stained the resin (slight
brown colouring of the initially white resin). However, during
elution of the Sr fraction with deionised water, the organic
compounds were essentially retained on the resin.
Peat samples were exposed for 1 h to 5 ml of 0.05 N HNO3 at
room temperature in an ultrasonic bath, a procedure which in
modified form has been adopted from studies attempting to extract
1967
K.M. Frei et al. / Journal of Archaeological Science 36 (2009) 1965–1971
Table 1
87
Sr/86Sr ratios of modern wool samples.
87
2SE (abs.)
4.61
9.04
0.71595
0.72780
0.00001
0.00005
32.27
32.27
3.92
2.60
0.71495
0.72992
0.00001
0.00005
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 60 min
32.58
32.58
6.65
2.24
0.71222
0.73150
0.00001
0.00006
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 60 min
31.50
31.50
6.50
0.99
0.70984
0.72631
0.00001
0.00003
Lej H
Lej H
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 60 min
32.06
32.06
4.18
1.38
0.70985
0.72597
0.00001
0.00001
Lej BB
Lej BB
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 120 min
31.86
31.86
4.63
13.63
0.71894
0.73044
0.00001
0.00006
Lej HS
Lej HS
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 120 min
32.83
32.83
3.10
3.83
0.71014
0.72656
0.00001
0.00002
Lej BD
Lej BD
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 120 min
31.24
31.24
6.91
3.21
0.70994
0.72657
0.00001
0.00002
Sample
Material
Description
Weight (mg)
Lej BB
Lej BB
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 60 min
31.78
31.78
Lej HS
Lej HS
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 60 min
Lej BD
Lej BD
Wool
Wool
Lej ØN
Lej ØN
bio-available (soluble) trace elements from soils (Yoshida and
Muramatsu, 1997; Martin and McCulloch, 1999; Fu et al., 2001;
Aubert et al., 2004). The solutions were centrifuged, pipetted off
and dried down. Sr was separated from these leaches using the
same chromatographic recipe as for the other samples.
4.3. Thermal ionization mass spectrometry
Samples were dissolved in 2.5 ml of a Ta2O5–H3PO4–HF activator
solution and directly loaded onto previously outgassed 99.98%
single rhenium filaments. Samples were measured at 1250–1300 C
in dynamic multi-collection mode on a VG Sector 54 IT mass spectrometer equipped with eight faraday detectors (Institute of Geography and Geology, University of Copenhagen). Five nanogram loads
of the NBS 987 Sr standard gave 87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.710236 0.000010
(n ¼ 10, 2s). Errors reported in Tables 1–3 are within-run (2SE;
standard error) precisions of the individual runs.
4.4. Evaluation of the sample pretreatment
The removal of foreign (contaminant) Sr from archaeological
material is an important and problematic issue. Particularly with
respect to provenance studies, it is essential to free the samples
Sr/86Sr
Sr (ppm)
from site-specific Sr contaminants such as dust, soil, and mobile
Sr fractions which potentially can diffuse into the archaeological
materials. This is also the case with wool textiles. Human and
animal hair contains only trace amounts of Sr (a few ppm at most:
Attar et al., 1990; Sandford and Kissling, 1994; Kolacz et al., 1999;
Rosborg et al., 2003) as compared to human bones where Sr is
found in larger concentrations (between 50 and 500 ppm; Bentley,
2006; and references therein). The low concentration of Sr in hair
and wool makes these soft body tissues highly sensitive to
contamination. The critical portion of hair for contamination has
been shown to be the lipid fraction (Attar et al., 1990). Their study
showed that several trace elements, including Sr, are present in
relative large portions (>20%) within the lipid fraction. They also
suggested that those elements largely present in the lipid fraction
are the result of environmental exposure, whereas those retained
in the hair fibre after lipid removal can be attributed to nutritional
and clinical aspects. Thus the implication of their study is that it is
essential to remove lipid-sourced Sr in hair and wool before using
the Sr for isotopic origin tracing. Likewise dust and other silicate
micro-particles need to be considered, since they usually have
elevated Sr concentrations and consequently can mask the true
nutritional Sr isotopic signature of the archaeological material. In
the scarce literature on provenance studies of archaeological
Table 2
87
Sr/86Sr ratios of peat, skin, plant and wool fibres from the Huldremose I find.
Sr (ppm)
87
Sr/86Sr
2SE (%)
2SE (abs)
13.00
13.00
9.35
7.39
0.72440
0.72426
0.0056
0.0063
0.00004
0.00005
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 60 min
4.45
4.45
4.96
14.13
0.72489
0.71993
0.0055
0.0109
0.00004
0.00008
Plant fibre
Plant fibre
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 60 min
9.97
9.97
4.89
8.25
0.72615
0.72581
0.0151
0.0103
0.00011
0.00007
T1 bulk
T1
T2 bulk
T2
Peat
Peat
Peat
Peat
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
0.05 N HNO3 leach 1 h
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
0.05 N HNO3 leach 1 h
n.a.
n.a.
n.a.
n.a.
0.71087
0.71198
0.71019
0.71090
0.0036
0.0029
0.0058
0.0029
0.00003
0.00002
0.00004
0.00002
C3474
C3474 HF
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 60 min
9.10
9.10
7.26
4.32
0.70905
0.71229
0.0042
0.0032
0.00003
0.00002
S1
S1 HF
Skin
Skin
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 60 min
46.54
46.54
13.36
3.02
0.71417
0.72285
0.0061
0.0045
0.00004
0.00003
Sample
Material
Description
M18862
M18862 HF
Plant fibre
Plant fibre
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 60 min
M50465
M50465 HF
Plant fibre
Plant fibre
P
P HF
n.a. ¼ not analyzed.
Weight (mg)
105.90
105.90
17.25
17.25
1968
K.M. Frei et al. / Journal of Archaeological Science 36 (2009) 1965–1971
Table 3
87
Sr/86Sr ratios of wool fibres from the Huldremose II find.
87
2SE (abs.)
4.47
2.91
0.70857
0.71442
0.00007
0.00003
5.93
5.93
2.15
2.24
0.71454
0.71419
0.00010
0.00003
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 30 min
9.09
9.09
4.49
1.30
0.71443
0.71880
0.00006
0.00005
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 30 min
13.55
13.55
3.56
3.02
0.71140
0.71603
0.00004
0.00003
Wa V
Wa V HF
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 30 min
11.02
11.02
6.25
4.04
0.70909
0.71241
0.00004
0.00005
We I
We I HF
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 30 min
6.80
6.80
8.31
5.29
0.71331
0.71149
0.00006
0.00003
We II
We II HF
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 30 min
11.68
11.68
11.27
7.82
0.70958
0.70831
0.00005
0.00004
We III
We III HF
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 30 min
7.86
7.86
3.81
4.75
0.72037
0.71659
0.00004
0.00005
We IV
We IV HF
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 30 min
11.36
11.36
60.36
2.77
0.70819
0.71188
0.00003
0.00004
We V
We V HF
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 30 min
14.89
14.89
9.83
2.63
0.70908
0.71264
0.00004
0.00003
W2
W2 HF
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 60 min
0.49
0.49
12.71
19.97
0.70931
0.70902
0.00004
0.00014
Sample
Material
Description
Wa I
Wa I HF
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 30 min
9.63
9.63
Wa II
Wa II HF
Wool
Wool
Residue HNO3–H2O2 attack
HF-MQ 50:50 wash cold 30 min
Wa III
Wa III HF
Wool
Wool
Wa IV
Wa IV HF
5.1. Modern sheep wool
Strontium isotopic data from sheep wool, together with Sr
concentrations, are presented in Table 1. Rinses from all wool
samples consistently show significantly elevated Sr isotopic
compositions (87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.72597–0.73150) in agreement with the
results from a previous study of sheep wool from the Lejre Experimental Centre (Frei et al., 2009), in which the rinses also yielded
elevated Sr isotopic signatures compared to the residual hair
(87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.71497–0.72114). We interpret the consistently
elevated but rather heterogeneous Sr isotope composition of the
wool rinses as reflecting contributions from airborne dust with
generally more radiogenic Sr isotopic compositions. Results of the
residues (after 60 min exposure to the HF pretreatment) show a
bimodal distribution (Table 1). Three of the samples, BB, HS, and BD
show higher strontium isotopic compositions (87Sr/86Sr ¼
0.71222–0.71595) compared to the two other samples, ØN and H
(87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.70984–0.70985). These two samples are compatible
with Sr isotopic signatures of soil acid extracts from the Lejre
Experimental Centre (87Sr/86Sr w 0.709; Frei et al., 2009). We
assume that the first three hair samples with elevated 87Sr/86Sr
ratios in their residues were incompletely decontaminated. In order
to test this, we duplicated the analyses and extended the exposure
time to HF from 60 to 120 min. The results show that the prolonged
HF pretreatment was more efficient, at least for two of the samples.
Sample HS changed from 87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.71495 to 0.71014 and sample
BD from 87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.71222 to 0.70994 (Table 1). Sample BB
(plotting as an outlier in Fig. 1) still yielded a high Sr isotopic
composition even after 120 min precleaning. Besides the possibility
that the decontamination time of 120 min in this case was still not
sufficient to have completely removed the lipid fraction of the hair,
we can think of two other ways to explain the remaining elevated Sr
isotopic composition of sample BB. 1) the hair from this part of the
sheep body (back leg) could be thicker (having a thicker cuticle)
than the hair from other body parts, which consequently would
necessitate an even longer decontamination period, or 2) the hair
from the back leg is likely to be more in direct contact with soil as
a sheep tends to lie on the ground on this part of the body, thereby
facilitating the encapsulation of micro-silicate particles. Whatever
the reason may be, wool from this part of the sheep is usually of
poor quality and therefore unlikely to have been used in textile
production.
It should be mentioned here that the HF pretreatment used in
this study affected modern sheep hair less intensively compared to
0.719
Hair residues
0.717
Sr/86Sr
5. Results and discussion
Sr/86Sr
Sr (ppm)
0.715
0.713
87
textiles, some methods for decontamination have been reported.
These include abrasive procedures accompanied by tracing Al levels
in the analyte of prehistoric plant fibre textiles (Benson et al., 2006),
and rehydration steps prior to ashing of Iron Age wool and leather
textiles (Von Carnap-Bornheim et al., 2007). The pretreatment
procedures applied herein are specifically designed for lipid-based
contaminant removal of hair and wool and concomitant dissolution
of adhering micro-silicate particles (discussed and outlined in
detail in Frei et al., 2009).
Weight (mg)
0.711
0.709
0.707
ØN
H
BB
HS
BD
Fig. 1. 87Sr/86Sr ratios of residues from modern sheep wool fibres. Stippled lines
denote the upper and lower limits of 87Sr/86Sr ratios defined by soils extracts from the
feeding ground (Frei et al., 2009). For details see text.
K.M. Frei et al. / Journal of Archaeological Science 36 (2009) 1965–1971
archaeological wool fibres. Under the same acid exposure times
applied, we noticed an increased tendency of the ancient fibres to
be attacked or dissolved relative to the modern hair, probably as
a result of advanced crystallinity of the lipid portion of the former.
Thus the precleaning procedure of archaeological wool fibres
should be shorter than the one applied to modern sheep hair (see
below and Tables 1–3).
In summary (cf. Fig. 1), four of the five modern sheep hair
samples from different body parts have statistically indistinguishable Sr isotopic signatures (range from 87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.70984–
0.71014) and reflect the signature of Sr isotopes extracted from
soils from the Lejre Experimental Centre site w 0.709 (Frei et al.,
2009). Although we observe some dependency of the Sr isotopic
composition of residual modern sheep wool on the acid exposure
times used for decontamination, we show that an extended
pretreatment of 120 min (outliers excluded) leads to a homogeneous Sr isotopic composition, which is compatible with the soil’s
bio-available Sr composition. This result allows us to propose that
Sr isotopic signatures of single pieces of wool threads from an
archaeological garment can be used as a sensitive indicator to
discriminate between different origins (with respect to background geology) of wool.
5.2. Huldremose I finds
Table 2 presents the results of Sr isotopic compositions of plant
fibre textile threads, wool, peat and skin samples from the
Huldremose Woman’s bog body find. These results are plotted in
Fig. 2.
Residues of the three textile plant fibres have strikingly similar
but elevated Sr isotopic signatures (87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.72440–0.72615).
The respective leachates have somewhat lower Sr isotopic
compositions (Table 2). The leached peat samples (T1 and T2;
Table 2) are characterized by lower Sr isotopic compositions
(87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.71019–0.71087). The respective fractions leached by
weak HNO3 have only slightly elevated Sr isotopic compositions,
but in essence the peat signatures reflect Sr isotopic signatures that
are typically extracted from Danish soils (Fig. 2; Frei et al., 2009)
and thus considered to characterize the local peat bog environment. As bog finds are often soaked and impregnated by their
environment, the high Sr isotopic signatures of the textile plant
fibres must indicate an external, i.e. non-local, origin. The question
of how Sr is incorporated into plant material (particularly into peat)
0.740
0.735
87Sr/86Sr
0.730
Plant fibre threads
Peat; bulk
Wool thread (C 3474)
Skin
0.725
0.720
0.715
0.710
non-local
local
0.705
Fig. 2. 87Sr/86Sr ratios of bulk peat, and residues of skin, plant and wool fibres from the
Huldremose I find. Plant fibres define a group (encircled by an ellipse) that is
characterized by non-local 87Sr/86Sr ratios. The skin sample also lies in the non-local
87
Sr/86Sr range. Peat and wool yarn fibres from the scarf of the Huldremose I find
(sample C 3474) lie within the range of 87Sr/86Sr ratios that are considered local. For
details see text.
1969
is difficult to assess. As burial conditions in peat sphagnum bogs are
moist, oxygen deficient and characterized by a low pH, organic
remains such as textiles can be preserved by natural tanning
processes (Von Carnap-Bornheim et al., 2007). However the
potential contamination by exogenous Sr from the peat bog environment is probably rather small as diffusion of Sr into skin and
hair should be impeded by the positive charge of amino acids at low
pH (Von Carnap-Bornheim et al., 2007). On this basis, and
compared to the signatures of the two peat samples, the Sr isotopic
compositions of the plant fibres presented here can be classified as
non-local (Fig. 2). Admittedly, airborne particle contamination of
a bog find is greatly enhanced by the natural uplifting of the
growing bog above the water-table. However our rigorous
pretreatment with HF has certainly removed this potential
contamination.
The residue of the wool thread (C 3474) yielded a Sr isotopic
signature (87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.70905; Table 2; Fig. 2), that is lower than
the rinse (87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.71229). In contrast the residual analysis of
a skin piece from the bog body’s stomach area yielded a somewhat elevated Sr isotopic signature (87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.71417; Table 2;
Fig. 2), with the fraction removed in the pretreatment
approaching radiogenic signatures measured in the plant fibre
rinses (see Table 2).
The wool sample (C 3474) reacted similarly to the analytical
procedure applied to other archaeological wool textiles (Frei et al.,
2009), in that the pretreatment was capable of removing the fraction of Sr with elevated isotopic composition which we interpret to
derive from exogenous sources, possibly airborne micro-particles.
The residual composition of this sample is of typical local nature
and compares well with bio-available extracts from Danish soils
(Frei et al., 2009).
In contrast, the 87Sr/86Sr ratio of w0.714 measured in the skin
residue seems to indicate a non-local signature. However, as we
have not applied our HF pretreatment to skin previously, we have to
leave the option open that our pretreatment was not capable of
removing all of the potential radiogenic contaminant. Additional
investigations in the future are necessary and will hopefully give
a more precise answer to whether or not the Huldremose Woman
actually was from Denmark or ‘‘migrated’’ from a place with
a geological background characterized by a more radiogenic Sr
isotopic signature (e.g. Northern Scandinavia).
5.3. Huldremose II find
The Sr isotopic compositions of 11 wool yarn pieces (few milligrams each) of the large tubular garment from the Huldremose II
find are presented in Table 3. In Fig. 3 three groups of residual
analyses of wool yarn can be discerned. Sample Wa IV plots
between groups I and II. Group I consists of six samples (55% of all
analyzed threads) with an average of 87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.70897 0.00101
(2s) and is compatible with local Danish soils. Group II, composed
of three samples (27% of all analyzed threads), is characterized by
an average value of 87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.71409 0.00136 (2s). Group III
with only one sample (9% of all analyzed threads) has an elevated Sr
isotopic composition of 87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.72037, a value which resembles the Sr isotopic composition of a contemporary textile recovered from a bog at Gerum, Sweden (Fig. 3; Frei et al., 2009). These
two last groups are classified as non-local, whereas group I is a local
group with Sr isotopic compositions that are compatible with
Sr extracted from Danish soils and with Sr measured in tooth
enamel of Viking humans from different sites in Denmark
(T. D. Price, P. Bennike, pers. comm.; and our unpublished data).
There is no systematic difference in Sr concentrations and Sr
isotopic compositions between weft and warp fibre pieces. We
interpret this to reflect a blending of various proportions of wool
1970
K.M. Frei et al. / Journal of Archaeological Science 36 (2009) 1965–1971
0.722
0.720
87Sr/86Sr
0.718
Wool from Gerum cloak
Group I
Group II
Group III
Wa IV
0.716
0.714
0.712
0.710
non-local
local
0.708
0.706
Fig. 3. 87Sr/86Sr ratios of wool residue samples from a single large archaeological
garment (Huldremose II find). Three provenance groups can be discerned: Group I
wool threads indicate a local source of strontium, with 87Sr/86Sr ratios compatible with
Danish soil extracts (Frei et al., 2009). Groups II and III comprise wool threads with
elevated 87Sr/86Sr ratios implying a non-local provenance. Group III sample shows
a similar 87Sr/86Sr ratio to wool from a textile find in Sweden (Gerum cloak; Frei et al.,
2009). Sample Wa IV plots between group I and II. For details see text.
from the three discernable sources which was spun into yarn prior
to the weaving of the garment. Even though from a textile-technique and fibre-study point of view the Huldremose II find is
deemed homogeneous and locally made, we conclude that it is
woven with wool yarn from at least three areas with geologically
different backgrounds, two of them being of non-local origin.
Moreover, when we compare the Sr isotopic signature of wool
from the Huldremose I and II finds, it becomes apparent that the
scarf from the Huldremose Woman’s bog body (Huldremose I find,
87
Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.70905, Table 2) is identical in its composition to wool
threads of group I of the Huldremose II (average 87Sr/86Sr
0.70897 0.00101 (2s); Table 3). This finding is in agreement with
visual and technical analysis (Mannering and Gleba, in preparation). We also note that the skin of the Huldremose Woman
(sample S; 87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.71417; Table 2) has a similar Sr isotopic
composition as group II-wool threads from the Huldremose II
(average 87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.71409 0.00136 (2s)). Finally, the plant
fibres found on the bog body yielded elevated Sr isotopic compositions (average 87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.72515 0.00181 (2s); Table 2; Fig. 3)
as did the yarn sample (group III) from the Huldremose II find
(87Sr/86Sr ¼ 0.72037; Table 2; Fig. 3). Such elevated compositions
are extremely unlikely to be derived from local (Danish) source
areas, and have to be sought in soils developed on Precambrian
basement rocks. Furthermore, there is a compositional overlap
between the Sr isotopic composition of the Huldremose Woman’s
skin and wool threads of group II from the Huldremose II find,
particularly samples Wa II and Wa III (Tables 2 and 3). However, we
would like to emphasize that more detailed investigations are
necessary to address the question of the Huldremose Woman’s
origin.
Last not but least, the plant fibres from the Huldremose Woman’s bog body (shown in Fig. 2) are most probably derived from one
and the same textile. Although almost completely disintegrated,
these plant fibres must be remnants of another, previously
unknown garment. Its inferred existence is furthermore hinted at
by imprints on the Huldremose Woman’s chest. There, clear woven
patterns are visible which do not appear in any of the garments
found with her. The plant fibres can be interpreted as derived from
some kind of ‘‘undergarment’’ worn under the wool garments.
Most interestingly the radiogenic 87Sr/86Sr ratios of these fibres
imply a non-local origin for this ‘‘undergarment’’. Currently,
microscopic analyses of the plant fibres are being preformed by B.
Holst and her group at the University of Bergen in order to define
what kind of plant the textile fibres were made of.
It is also important to address the question of possible dyestuffs.
Recent studies aimed at identifying dyestuffs in archaeological
textiles showed that, contrary to earlier thinking, most of the Iron
Age Danish textiles contain residues of natural dyestuffs (Vanden
Berghe et al., in press). Dyestuff therefore has to be regarded as
a further possible contaminant of Sr in wool fibres. However the
amount of dyes remaining on archaeological samples is usually
minute (Vanden Berghe et al., in press). Dyestuff remains in the
archaeological textiles are most probably retained in the lipid
matter (as potential contaminants), and we consider that any
remaining dyestuff would be removed by the HF pretreatment. In
depth research on dyestuff Sr is needed to evaluate its potential
importance for wool contamination.
6. Conclusions
1) Our study has shown the potential applicability of the Sr
isotopic tracer system to wool archaeological textiles and other
organic fibres as a unique method for characterizing their
origin.
2) We based our studies on a test for variability of Sr isotopes in
wool from a single Gotland type sheep. We show that the
variability of at least four of the five samples of the sheep’s
fleece is relatively small and that the Sr isotopic values of wool
samples from the animal matches the geological background
value at the feeding ground site.
3) Our detailed multi-thread sample study of the Huldremose II
garment revealed that a specific garment was woven from
wool of different origins. We identified three sources for the
Huldremose II garment. While one source can be equated,
using its 87Sr/86Sr ratio, with Sr from Danish soils (mixture of
Cretaceous–Tertiary carbonate-derived sources and postglacial
moraine components), the two other sources are non-local and
probably derived from Precambrian terrains or shield areas
which are typical of Northern Scandinavia (e.g. Norway or
Sweden). We conclude that even though the raw material of
this particular garment comes from several sources, local and
non-local ones, the garment was spun and weaved most
probably in Denmark (supporting previous unpublished
textile-technical results of one of the co-authors (I.S.)).
4) Plant fibres recovered directly from the Huldremose bog body
also have radiogenic non-local Sr isotopic compositions. Our
study implies that the Huldremose Woman wore some kind of
undergarment that was manufactured from plant fibres with
an origin from Precambrian terrains, possibly compatible with
the most radiogenic Sr isotope ratios of wool woven into the
Huldremose II garment, and therefore of a non-local provenance. The existence of this undergarment was previously not
known. In contrast, the wool thread from the Huldremose
Woman’s scarf shows a local origin. The Huldremose Woman
was thus wearing garments of both non-local and local provenance. So, either the plant fibre ‘‘undergarment’’ was a traded
object or she had been abroad and brought the raw material/or
undergarment with her to Denmark. There is also the possibility that the Huldremose Woman herself emigrated from
outside Denmark as the skin analysis seems to show, but
further analyses are needed in this field in order to verify her
true origin.
5) There is an obvious link between the wool fibres from the
Huldremose Woman’s scarf (Huldremose I find) and the wool
from group I from the Huldremose II find. It seems as if these
wool fibres all come from the same area, maybe even from the
same sheep herd, and are all of local origin.
K.M. Frei et al. / Journal of Archaeological Science 36 (2009) 1965–1971
6) Finally, our results imply that the raw materials (plants, wool)
for the Iron Age textiles were not necessarily all locally derived
(i.e. close to the recovery site) but originated from geologically
different areas that were dominated by Precambrian rocks and
therefore outside Denmark (Bornholm excluded). Such areas
are found overwhelmingly in Northern Scandinavia, e.g.
Norway and Sweden. We conclude that wool and plant fibres as
raw materials for textiles were either traded over geographically larger distances than previously thought or that Iron Age
people brought these goods from places outside Denmark.
Acknowledgments
We thank Robert Frei, T. Douglas Price, Ulla Mannering, Eva
Andersson Strand, Marie Louise Nosch, John Bailey, Pia Bennike,
Judit Pasztokai-Szeöke, and Elizabeth W. Barber for excellent
discussion and support. We also thank two anonymous reviewers
for their valuable inputs. We are grateful to the Institute of
Geography and Geology (University of Copenhagen) for providing
access to their Isotope Laboratory, particularly Maria Jankowski for
assistance in the clean labs. We thank Charlie Christensen, for
providing access to the Danish National Museums archives.
Furthermore we thank Marianne Rasmussen of the Lejre Experimental Centre for help with modern wool samples.
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