Recycling Textile Technologies

2/22/2018 Recycling Textile Technologies//London// 14th June 2010 | Social Alterations Social Alterations An education lab for responsible fashion Recycling Textile Technologies//London// 14th June 2010 Save A one-day workshop from 9am to 5pm, on June 14th 2010 To be held at the Pearson North Lecture Theatre, University College London Waste is a valuable, yet often little understood, resource that may be used to subvert and recon gure moral, legal, social and political boundaries in the pursuit of livelihoods and business success. Textile recyclers have developed a range of socio-technological practises to enable material transformations to take place that often remain invisible to those studying modern economies. This one-day interdisciplinary workshop brings together researchers working on textile recycling across disciplines and sectors, including anthropologists, geographers, historians, designers, waste consultants and consumer researchers. Through this exchange we hope to develop a greater http://socialalterations.com/2010/06/01/recycling-textile-technologieslondon-14th-june-2010/ 1/4 2/22/2018 Recycling Textile Technologies//London// 14th June 2010 | Social Alterations understanding of the underlying relationships between people and things, raw materials and technologies, the emergence of entrepreneurs and innovators in social networks, and their contextual variations. For further details, please see the Call for Papers. Participants: Beverly Lemire, University of Alberta, Canada Olumide Abimbola, Max Planck Institute for Social Anthropology, Germany Karen Tranberg Hansen, Northwestern University, USA B. Lynne Milgram, Ontario College of Art and Design, Canada Julie Botticello, UCL, United Kingdom Ingun Grimstad Klepp, Tone Skardal Tobiasson, Charlotte Bik Bandlien and Kirsi Laitala, SIFO (NICE), Norway Nicholas Morley, Oakdene Hollins, United Kingdom Pammi Sinha and Kanchana Dissanayake, University of Manchester, United Kingdom Lucy Norris, UCL, United Kingdom Organisers: Lucy Norris and Julie Botticello, Dept of Anthropology, UCL Registration: The registration fee covers refreshments and lunch with vegetarian options. Waged: £25 and Unwaged: £18 Please contact Julie Botticello on ucsajbo ucl.ac.uk to reserve your place. The deadline for registration is 7th of June 2010. Programme: 9.40 – 10.00 10.00 – 10.10 Registration & Co ee (in the North Cloisters) Welcome: Danny Miller; Introduction: Lucy Norris and Julie Botticello Session 1: Building networks and breaking boundaries Chair: Danny Miller 10.10 – 10.40 Beverly Lemire, Textile Networks and Textile Meanings: the European Secondhand Trade in Historical Perspective, c. 1600-1850 10.40 – 11.10 Julie Botticello, Negotiating Status and Value: Processing Rags for Global Export. http://socialalterations.com/2010/06/01/recycling-textile-technologieslondon-14th-june-2010/ 2/4 2/22/2018 11.10 – 11.40 Recycling Textile Technologies//London// 14th June 2010 | Social Alterations Lynne Milgram, Mobilizing Livelihood, Centering Margins: Women and the Transnational Hong-Kong Philippine Used Clothing Trade 11.40 – 12.00 Co ee Break (in the North Cloisters) Chair: Nicky Gregson 12.00 – 12.30 Karen Tranberg Hansen, From Family Business to International Empire: Global Networks in Secondhand Clothing Trading 12.30 – 1.00 Olumide Abimbola, Igbo Trade Networks and Secondhand Clothing 1.00 – 1.15 Discussion 1.15 – 2.00 Lunch (in the North Cloisters) Session 2: The return of recycling technologies Chair: Dinah Eastop 2.00 – 2.30 Ingun Grimstad Klepp, Tone Skardal Tobiasson, Charlotte Bik Bandlien, Reinventing Old Solutions t0 New Problems? 2.30 – 3.00 Nick Morley, Pulp Fiction? Re-innovating Paper Manufacture from Textiles 3.15 – 3.30 Co ee Break (in the North Cloisters) Chair: Susanne Küchler 3.30 – 4.00 Pammi Sinha, Kanchana Dissanayake, Local Knowledge and Skills in Remanufacturing Fashion 4.00 – 4.30 Lucy Norris, Remains or Resource? Alternative perspectives on dirt and the success of used clothing transformations in India. 4.30 – 5.00 Final discussion Check out the Journal of Material Culture for their contribution to the workshop. The event is taking place as part of the Waste of the World programme funded by the Economic and Social Research Council Source: UCL Department of Anthropology http://socialalterations.com/2010/06/01/recycling-textile-technologieslondon-14th-june-2010/ 3/4 2/22/2018 Recycling Textile Technologies//London// 14th June 2010 | Social Alterations Katrine is a contributing partner at Social Alterations. She brings expertise in strategy implementation and fashion management. Related posts: 1. Ethical Sourcing Forum North America 2010 2. AATCC Global Conference & Exhibition: Emerging Trends in Textile Processing for a Sustainable Future 3. New Book: Textile Futures Fashion, Design and Technology 4. Go Green Week, 2010 // The University of the Arts 5. Hong Kong Textile Conference Includes Eco-Component This entry was posted in Responsibility on June 1, 2010 [http://socialalterations.com/2010/06/01/recycling-textile-technologieslondon-14th-june-2010/] by Katrine Karlsen. http://socialalterations.com/2010/06/01/recycling-textile-technologieslondon-14th-june-2010/ 4/4 

Material World A Global Hub for Thinking About Things http://www.materialworldblog.com CALL FOR PAPERS: Date : February 21, 2010 "Recycling Textile Technologies" A workshop to be held at the Department of Anthropology, University College London, on June 14th 2010 This interdisciplinary workshop will bring together researchers who work on textile recycling, including anthropologists, geographers, historians, political economists, designers, and materials scientists. This is with a view to develop a research agenda that explores innovation in textile recycling technologies in the widest sense, and how these succeed or fail in becoming socially embedded. Textile recycling activities, as socio-technical systems, arise in specific cultural contexts within global trading patterns, and their study may incorporate the underlying relationships between people and things, raw materials and technologies and the emergence of entrepreneurs and innovators in social networks amongst other (f)actors. We see at least three possible clusters of themes emerging, but welcome further ideas: 1. Reinventing Old Solutions to New Problems? Industrial recycling practises are specific, historically situated socio-technical systems. While pre-industrial papermaking industries used rags as a source of raw materials, 19th century textile mills looked to recycled clothing as a cheaper source of raw material for the wool shoddy industries. In the 21st century, the problem has changed to what to do with mountains of cast-off clothing, and this drives the search for technologically solutions appropriate to diverse cultural contexts. Anthropological understandings of technology embrace materials, makers, designers, and users in a relational networks including socio-economic, political, and legal factors. In this broader context, how are some old technologies being reinvented for the future, and in what fields are new technologies being successfully developed? 2. The value of knowledge and skills in cultural contexts As different cultures have developed different somatic skills and practices, we wish to investigate the importance of tacit knowledges to recycling. Consideration of these embedded knowledges within the global perspective raises a number of questions specific to the processing of waste textiles. How are knowledge and skills valued differently within a textile waste industry compared to primary production? How intimately do 1/2 Material World A Global Hub for Thinking About Things http://www.materialworldblog.com you need to know used textiles in order to process them effectively, and how do differing levels of entanglement affect your social status within a recycling system? For those who are bodily engaged with waste, how valuable are these tacit knowledges and are they acknowledged by others? And what are the cultural specificities of the valuing of people and skills within different textile waste sectors? For example, there are differences in skills and status between an immigrant rag sorter in a UK factory, an illiterate migrant woman cutting up rags in an Indian shoddy factory and the designer creating eco-textiles from recycled materials. Do these differences come down to a narrowing of knowledge domains? Are these limitations the only factors affecting personal value ranking within global systems? 3. Networks of global trade Since at least the early 19thC rags have been globally traded for reuse and recycling industries. Many rag businesses are family businesses that have been trading for generations, and have nurtured valuable networks of business contacts that span the developed and developing world in both directions. The movement of second-hand textiles across the globe both creates social relations and at the same time is enabled by pre-existing social contacts. Why is it difficult to start up a new rag trade business? A related question is what can waste do as an actor in international trade? For example, how does the trade in second-hand clothing and textile waste facilitate the movement of other goods along similar networks? To what extent is textile waste trade a conduit for other licit and illicit goods? How might the degrees of regulatory frameworks surrounding waste enable or inhibit other flows of goods, and is this conducive to it becoming the visible front for invisible commodity exchange? Is this particular to textiles, to waste or raw materials in general? Please send abstracts of no more than 250 words by Feb 28th to: Lucy Norris lucy.norris@ucl.ac.uk AND Julie Botticello j.botticello@ucl.ac.uk Department of Anthropology, UCL. This workshop is being initiated as part of the ESRC project, the Waste of the World www.thewasteoftheworld.org 2/2 Powered by TCPDF (www.tcpdf.org)