Review: Harmonica Yokocho

Tell me: What’s this place all about?

This clutch of narrow alleys, a short walk from the north exit of Tokyo's JR Kichijoji station, is stuffed to the gills with hole-in-the wall eateries. A yellow sign marks the entrance to Harmonica Yokocho, which takes its name from the layout of the vendors, slotted cheek-to-jowl along the passageways like the reeds in a harmonica. The atmospheric network of lanes started out as a post-war flea market in the 1940s, but the area underwent a transformation in the 90s when bustling bars and restaurants made their entrance onto the scene.

What’s the crowd like?

This place has a laid-back and hyper-local feel, especially during the daytime, when you’ll find fishmongers and traditional sweets makers plying their trades. At night, the non-Japanese people you’ll encounter here are more likely to be residents than visitors. The bars and restaurants are all welcoming, and some have English or picture menus.

What should we be drinking?

Forget fancy cocktails: standard beer, sake, whisky highballs, and shochu-based drinks are Harmonica Yokocho’s boozy mainstays. Standing bar Crazy Wine specializes in (surprise!) wine, and a few outlets serve craft beer and spirits.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.

The best way to experience Harmonica Yokocho is to hop from place to place, rather than lingering over dinner at a single establishment. Start with a flask of sake, a few pieces of sushi, and the deliciously funky narazuke pickles at Katakuchi, a charming open-fronted restaurant marked by a white noren curtain separating it from the street. Move on to Minmin, a retro gyoza specialist where you can get a plate of succulent homemade dumplings for ¥580. Round off the evening with a bowl of dashi-simmered oden – you can choose from a variety of items like daikon radish and atsuage (deep-fried tofu)—at Apron, or Kyushu-style stuffed chicken wings at Ron Ron 2.

And how's the service?

Service tends to be quick and efficient—a few notches above a street food cart, but don’t expect to be coddled. The atmosphere is lively and hospitable.