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Review: Eureka!

Sake is the name of the game here, and the food pairings are innovative. 

Photos

cuisine

Japanese

What were your first impressions when you arrived? 

On the second floor of what looks like a repurposed residential building near Nishiazabu Crossing, sake guru Marie Chiba has opened one of the city’s trendiest sake bars. A pink-and-blue neon sign, bearing the enigmatic words “strawberry meeting” (a pun on a Japanese aphorism about once-in-a-lifetime encounters), casts a cotton-candy glow over the curved wooden counter. There are only 12 seats, but Chiba has set aside a standing-only space in front of the sake refrigerators for a few walk-ins (though it’s better to call ahead even for these coveted spots).

What’s the crowd like? 

The bar draws a curious mix of international guests–both residents and tourists–and Japanese sake brewers in town on business.

What should we be drinking? 

Sake is the name of the game here. Eureka! specializes in rare brews, many of which Chiba, a consultant as well as sommelier, has helped to blend. Craft beer on tap from Heiwa Shuzo is offered in adorable, thimble-sized tumblers.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. 

Innovative pairings are Eureka!’s forte, and Chiba offers suggestions for each dish. You can simply leave the menu in her hands, or choose your own dishes, listed on a chalkboard above the window. Signatures include the onyx-colored oeuf mayo, a soft-boiled egg enveloped in squid-ink mayonnaise, and the deep-fried ham katsu stuffed with blue cheese. In late spring, a dish of bamboo shoot and kumquat topped with fried enoki mushrooms is a match for a sweet, aged sake from Akita Prefecture that’s impossible to find elsewhere, while shiokoji-marinated fried chicken pairs with a viscous doburoku (a rustic style of sake) with a yogurt tang.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? 

The well-trained staff is knowledgeable, and service is personable. You’ll walk away feeling like you learned something new about sake.

What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? 

Eureka!’s highly seasonal, limited-edition liquid gems are not cheap, so full pairing courses can reach Michelin-starred restaurant prices. But you can avoid sticker shock by stopping in for a couple of light bites and drinks before or after dinner.

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