THE ART OF INDIAN TEXTILES

Brocade, UTTAR PRADESH

While brocade, as a technique, has existed for long in various parts of the world, what makes Benarasi brocade unique is the use of precious gold and silver yarn in Mughal-inspired motifs. It came into prominence under Mughal patronage during the 17th and 18th centuries. This year also marks 10 years of Benarasi brocade receiving its own GI (Geographical Indication) tag by the Government of India. It’s a huge moment for Benarasi weavers because it means that only brocade woven within the six identified districts of Uttar Pradesh can legally be sold under the name of Benarasi brocades or saris. Many Indian labels like Rajesh Pratap Singh, Sanjay Garg, Good Earth, Ritu Kumar, Anju Modi, Sabyasachi, among others, have consistently worked with Benarasi brocades and silks to create ever newer ways of celebrating an age-old weaving tradition.

Chanderi, MADHYA

Handwoven Chanderi owes its sheer, lightweight quality to the use of mill-spun cotton and silk yarns. In (workshop) in Chanderi, which remained operational until the late 1670s. Then, with the dissipation of the Mughal Empire and the advent of the British, the Scindias of Gwalior revived the weave, and encouraged local artisans to create fine textiles and saris. The fabric itself comes in many varieties: plain, woven with gold/silver zari, or patterned with zari motifs that are woven into the fabric using the extra-weft technique. And its signature sheen is the result of not degumming the silk yarn (to prevent the delicate threads from breaking) while it is being woven.