ANY WAY YOU SLICE IT
roper food people open their cookbooks by whizzing the reader back in time. With words they paint rich, romantic snapshots that set the scene, right down to what the air smelled like and what the leaves on the trees were doing. “I knew I’d work in food when, aged six, I tasted a beef tomato I’d personally plucked from the plant. My parents were keeping house in the eastern Loire at the time, and it was a very good year for Sancerre. I ate the tomato as a handfruit and its guts spewed over my
