UNDONE. THE LAURA ENEVER STORY
Growing up at Narrabeen, right in this hardcore surf zone, we grew up respecting the elders so much, there’s a real order you don’t see in other places. You go to all these other breaks, like Lowers in California and it’s everyone for themselves. At Narrabeen Boardriders, we were getting locked in the cage and I was like 13 still, 14, with all the boys. I was a real tomboy but I was still a little princess. It was me and maybe two or three other girls in Boardriders and they kind of knocked us around a bit, but it was more like I was a little sister to everyone. It was definitely that tough love vibe but it also felt like I had a hundred brothers as well, and all the boys would be like, we want to see you charging.
I’d paddle out in these massive east swells and wouldn’t make it out and would get washed down the beach. I’d keep trying until I got out because I felt like all the boys were just pushing me to charge and get bigger waves.
Before all of that, I had
You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.
Start your free 30 days