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The Camino’s Japanese sister

It must still be morning, but I have no idea what the actual time is. I’m not wearing a watch and I’ve switched off my phone. No WhatsApp message will interrupt my day; no e-mail with the word “urgent” in the subject line.

Cypress and cedar trees tower overhead. The landscape reminds me of other places I’ve hiked: Magoebaskloof maybe, or the Otter Trail – even the mountainous parts of the Camino in Spain. That’s until an unfamiliar bird call snaps me from my reverie and reminds me that I’m very far away.

I’m on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail in Japan, literally on the other side of the

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