WHEN IT COMES TO KILLING THE planet, we’re frequently told that all things cow are practically akin to cocaine. From that 16oz sirloin you had last Saturday to those White Russians you like to drink when you go dancing in Soho, it’s ecocide, one mouthful at a time. The narrative runs that, just like growing gak, “big beef” requires vast tracts of land to be ploughed up and turned over to production, with the inevitable result that wildlife is wiped out as vital habitats are lost.
Almost three years ago, with a vague plan of writing a book, I set off across Britain, in the hope of seeing ten of our most endangered birds. It had suddenly occurred to me that if I didn’t see the likes of a turtle dove, a capercaillie, or a corncrake soon, I probably never would. As well as wanting to see and hear these various birds, I also wanted to meet those who are devoting their lives to trying to save them, and to understand why they feel it matters so much.
I had a good idea of some of the hurdles that these conservationists, farmers, and scientists face, but what I
