THE JAPANESE TECHNIQUE of preserving fish and other meats in sweet white miso (saikyozuke) originated in Kyoto long before Chef Nobuyuki “Nobu” Matsuhisa applied it to black cod at his Los Angeles sushi bar in the 1980s (see “Who Is Nobu?”). But Nobu, with his specific rendition of black cod with miso, is responsible for putting it on the map, creating a version of the dish so unforgettable that his name is now nearly synonymous with the technique. It’s a testament to the excellence of the recipe that
