un! You know you crave it after our tepid summer (I don't count a scarce handful of hot days in July and September). Midwinter is the perfect time to visit South America. I finally made it to this year. I travelled around independently by public bus (we would call the vehicles coaches), which was heaven itself: one sits very high enjoying a perfect view, with aircon and a lav at the back, and cheery types get on from time to time selling cheap and delicious comestibles. Seats are easily booked online – note the .co, not the .com we are used to typing). The seven-hour trip north from Mompox into Santander province, at first following the fabled River Magdalena, was a highlight, ending at the high-altitude Barichara, a cobbled outpost of colonial architecture and desuetude. I spent three nights there but might never have left. has a stranglehold on the country for some reason, so you might as well use it – I did. There's almost no accommodation, high or low, that does not trade through this site. You'll find you can easily become a Genius member of – and reap a few minor benefits. Everyone seems to think Colombia is dangerous, but I don't believe it is anymore.
