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Getaway

SEEKING IN THE WILD

TRAVEL!Khamab Khalari Reserve

I feel like this is the find of the century,' said Guide Brenden Pienaar. We were sitting on the edge of a large calcrete pan somewhere in the almost 100 000 ha!Khamab Kalahari Reserve, watching hundreds of gemsbok, eland and wildebeest congregate around drying pools of water. There were also springbok and zebra. Then, a herd of buffalo arrived. We were the still points in this reel of unfolding life. When the glare softened, we walked onto the pan and set up camp for the night.

We only had what we could carry in our backpacks - sleeping mats and bags, hiking stools, small gas cookers, basic supplies, clothes and torches. At the start of the trail, Brenden had cautioned us: Forget your electronics. Leave no trace. Use your resources sparingly. This was our final night of the four-day trail, and we'd made friends with these pared-down versions of ourselves.

Gemsbok stared. Wildebeest snorted. A zebra rolled in the dust. The wildlife isn't used to seeing many humans in this remote part of South Africa's North West Province. There is one small lodge for visitors to the reserve. We watched the animals watching

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