Glancing off the stern of the driftboat, I admired the tall limestone bluffs stretching skyward, dotted with hardwood trees just starting to show the orange tinges of fall. The conversation had hit a lull, and I relished the human silence so I could listen to the language of the river. Water running over rocks. Wind blowing through leaves. Birdsong.
The oars smoothly sliced through the surface as our guide, Galen Kipar, positioned us within casting distance of the bank to fling topwater flies into slight windows of
