AZERBAIJAN
“It's positive energy!” declared my guide, Elhan, as he stood next to the eternally burning flame of the Ateshgah Fire Temple, a historic Zoroastrian pilgrim site. “The fire takes in the bad and gives out the good. But don't get too close,” he cautioned with a smile.
In reality, the naturally burning ‘eternal’ flame actually went out in 1969; today, it runs on the country's vast petroleum reserves. And
