Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies

ALAN KANE

SCRAMBLES

IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES

3rd Edition

Disclaimer

The actions described in this book may be considered inherently dangerous activities. Individuals undertake these activities at their own risk. The information put forth in this guide has been collected from a variety of sources and is not guaranteed to be completely accurate or reliable. Many conditions and some information may change owing to weather and numerous other factors beyond the control of the authors and publishers. Individuals or groups must determine the risks, use their own judgment, and take full responsibility for their actions. Do not depend on any information found in this book for your own personal safety. Your safety depends on your own good judgment based on your skills, education, and experience.

It is up to the users of this guidebook to acquire the necessary skills for safe experiences and to exercise caution in potentially hazardous areas. The authors and publishers of this guide accept no responsibility for your actions or the results that occur from another’s actions, choices, or judgments. If you have any doubt as to your safety or your ability to attempt anything described in this guidebook, do not attempt it.

For my wife, Diana

On the brink of a disaster: debris on Turtle Mountain above Frank Slide.

Descending Prairie Lookout as a storm approaches. Mount French is at right.

Observation Peak provides the perfect viewpoint for Bow Lake and the Wapta Icefield.

Signing Mount Potts register, with Mount Denny behind.

Returning down French Glacier after ascending Mount Robertson.

Reaching the top of Mount Vaux on a perfect August day.

Mount Hector (left) and a sea of peaks rise beyond Mount Richardson’s summit.

A morning view of (L–R) The Vice President, The President and Mount Kerr from the Whaleback.

Beautiful Kananaskis Lakes from the summit of Mount Foch.

Nearing the summit of Mount Jellicoe.

The Lake Louise skyline from Mount Richardson. Left to right are mounts Hungabee, Lefroy and Victoria.

Contents

Preface

Acknowledgements

Introduction

Scrambling in the Canadian Rockies

Hazards

Waterton Lakes

Crowsnest Pass

Canmore and Bow Valley

Smith-Dorrien Area

Elbow / Kananaskis Valley

Kananaskis Lakes Area

The Highwood

Banff Area

Lake Louise Area

Skoki Area

Field and Yoho Area

Icefields Parkway

Jasper Area

Glossary of Terms

Useful Phone Numbers

Peaks by Degree of Difficulty

Alphabetical Index of Peaks

Emergency Contacts

Preface

As this updated version of Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies goes to press, 25 years have passed since the first edition appeared in 1991. Scrambling has long since become a mainstream mountain pursuit, and scramble guidebooks have since been written for other areas such as southwestern BC, Washington and Oregon. While I only suspected my original book spawned these, veteran scrambler Steve Tober’s sharp eyes confirmed it beyond a doubt. Several years ago, while reading an online excerpt of a then-new U.S. scrambles publication, he noticed a familiar-sounding sentence and brought it to my attention. Sure enough, without even realizing it, I had crafted an opening sentence so memorable that another author had copied it verbatim. Since she is a professional writer, I was most flattered and I let her know. Although she did not acknowledge the source of that apparently unforgettable sentence, she did thank me for my interest in her book!

But not only are there more scrambles books now, one can now find innumerable online scrambling websites, and at least one mountain school offers a course in scrambling skills. While I don’t know how many scramble enthusiasts actually do take a skills course first, it seems that a lot more should. The Kananaskis Country rescue service is often kept busy bailing out scramblers who in some cases didn’t seem to have much of a clue at all. One example would be people taking a shortcut down a gully, encountering cliffs, and then getting flown off instead of climbing back up and going the correct way. Yes, this has really happened. Beaten paths, cairns and flagging exist like never before, making it harder to get off route or into trouble, but people still do. One interesting footnote to this is a conversation I had with a group of young people, new at scrambling, just as they returned from an ascent. One fellow didn’t seem to understand that existing flagging already shows the correct way. He intended to carry uniquely coloured flagging of his own so he could mark his own route and not get confused by flagging already in place. Occasional accidents and deaths still occur but no amount of detailed information will completely prevent this. What has become obvious over the years is the sheer number of ascents made without incident. Many peaks now see more ascents in one summer than they saw in an entire decade before the original Scrambles book came out in 1991.

So, why an updated version of Scrambles now? The promise of colour pictures this time around enticed me, and there have been enough changes to approaches, starting points and terrain that an update was justified. Park policies and park trails change, and with severe enough weather the scrambling terrain itself can change. Record-setting rainfall in June 2013 affected the landscape of the southern Rockies more than any other single event since people began hiking these mountains. Many approaches changed drastically and needed to be checked. This update also presents an opportunity to clarify discrepancies, adjust height gains, mention variations now in use and add a few new scrambles as well. Nineteen, in fact. Four are located in the French Creek–Haig Glacier area of Kananaskis and four in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. Other new scrambles are located in Yoho and Banff national parks and have seen very few ascents in the past. Most of these can be done as day trips, although for some new Kananaskis routes, bivying in French Creek allows for multiple ascents from one location. Although I don’t get up many new peaks anymore, as in previous editions, I have personally ascended each of these new peaks and it is those ascent routes which are described. In a very few cases I have changed the difficulty rating on existing guidebook entries based on user feedback and online reports by parties who have done a significant number of other scrambles from my guidebook. Inevitably I will have missed updating something and can only hope it will be relatively insignificant. Any errors can be forwarded to the publisher.

Finally, as a matter of interest, the first two people to complete all the routes in the original 1991 edition of Scrambles were Roberto Pavesio and Steve Tober, as of 1998. Then, in 2000, the ever-energetic Roberto became the first to complete the expanded 1998 edition. Every peak in this 2016 edition has already been completed by Sim Galloway. (And by me, too!)

To all who venture onto the trails and head for a summit, I wish you a happy and safe scramble to the top as well as many happy returns.

—Alan Kane

Acknowledgements

This updated scrambles book could not have been completed without the help of a number of people. Not only do I not get up many peaks anymore, but I haven’t taken as many pictures either. Luckily the Internet has made it a breeze to find suitable guidebook photos. Whereas 15 or so years ago, the number of online scrambling websites was less than ten, there are now scores of them, many with particularly good photos. Digital cameras have simplified it all and made it affordable to take huge numbers of photos. This was not the case when I first published this book more than 20 years ago, but I wish it had been.

Several people have generously contributed new photos for scrambles in this edition and I sure am glad they did. This book wouldn’t look nearly as good without the excellent new pictures provided by the following generous folks: Bob Spirko, Matthew Hobbs, Vern Dewit, Sonny Bou, Collin Smith, Dinah Kruze and Eric Coulthard. Photos and information from some of their websites also saved me much legwork regarding route conditions and changes since the previous edition. Thank you, guys! I definitely owe you for helping me out.

Geological information concerning the widespread black rock found on Waterton Park peaks was provided by Keith Dewing of Natural Resources Canada in Calgary, when one day I just showed up unannounced with one such rock.

Of course, this edition has built upon previous ones, and a number of people contributed to those in various ways over the years, whether by passing along information, suggesting new peaks and routes or providing photos. They are Tim Auger, David M. Baird, Don Beers, the late Reg Bonney, Harold Brown, Helen Butler, Carmie Callanan, Brian Carter, Clive Cordery, the late Rick Collier, Gill Daffern, Tony Daffern, Juliette DeChambre, the late Bruno Engler, Gary Fauland, Bill Kerr, Leon Kubbernus, Bernard Mueller, Glenn Naylor, Roberto Pavesio, Donna Pletz, Andy Riggs, Wendy Shanahan, Steve Tober, Kris Thorsteinsson and Sacha Veelbehr. Brad White provided great aerial shots courtesy of Parks Canada. Sim Galloway deserves a special mention for posing for so many photos (and never grumbling) as well as for supplying feedback and updated route information gained on her many ascents.

Place names were mainly taken from Canadian Mountain Place Names, by Boles, Laurilla and Putnam; Over 2000 Place Names of Alberta, by Holmgren and Holmgren; and Place Names of Waterton/Glacier National Park, by Jack Holterman. I never could have researched those names myself.

Ben Gadd’s excellent Handbook of the Canadian Rockies was the source of many tidbits and trivia about geology and natural history.

Two out-of-print books provided a wealth of information for my ascents. These are The Rocky Mountains of Canada–North, by Kruszyna and Putnam, and The Rocky Mountains of Canada–South, by Boles, Kruszyna and Putnam. Their scope is enormous while mine merely scratches the surface. George Brybycin’s books of beautiful photos from various summits inspired me early on in my peakbagging pursuits. Similarly, had it not been for Patton and Robinson’s bible The Canadian Rockies Trail Guide, appearing about 1972, I may have become a fisherman sooner rather than later and not hiked or scrambled at all. My chiropractor, Dr. James Sie, continues to keep my back performing as well as possible, so I am still able to enjoy what our amazing mountains offer. Lastly, a great big thanks to Rocky Mountain Books staff Don Gorman, Chyla Cardinal and Joe Wilderson for painstakingly organizing my four years’ worth of assorted updates and pictures into an actual guidebook. Thanks also to Tony and Gillean Daffern for publishing the book back when few even knew what scrambling was all about. That original book really got the ball (and the rubble!) rolling.

Introduction

More guidebooks continue to appear for our mountain playgrounds, but this book is the only one specifically focusing on non-technical ascents of selected mountains in the Canadian Rockies. These non-technical ascents, or scrambles, continue to appeal to people with a wide range of abilities. Strong hikers and backpackers who want more challenge and a better view will find this book opens many exciting opportunities. Climbers who simply want a hassle-free way of getting out, getting in shape or salvaging a day should also find this information useful. As one alpinist noted, these scramble routes make really good descent routes. Lastly, if you’re like me, and find that big climbs with heavy packs are hard on the body, you’ll probably appreciate these easier routes. No pain, no gain need not apply when speaking of elevation.

I have endeavoured to give concise, detailed information about level of difficulty, starting point, approaches, identity, height, elevation gain and round-trip time. Appropriate maps and any special equipment needed have also been noted. Critics have said that with all this preparation done, the adventure is gone. All you need to do now is buy, read and go conquer. In reality, despite the best information, mountains may still provide unexpected adventure with loose rock, unbridged streams and rapidly changing weather. Furthermore, a slight misinterpretation of the description can also inject new life into a normally straightforward route, as evidenced by periodic epics. Anyone stalwartly opposed to a detailed description can simply pioneer along without it anyway. My foremost aim is to give enough information so you can plan an outing on short notice, avoid nasty surprises and get to the top. I make no apologies to scramblers who experience problems owing to low cloud, fog, snow and ascents by moonlight. The premise is that you can at least see where you are going, even though it may not always be totally necessary. A modicum of ability helps too!

The Canadian Rockies encompass a huge area. This book includes a variety of mountains over a wide cross-section of this area. Some are famous postcard peaks close to tourist havens, while others are fairly obscure. Not surprisingly, most peaks are quite close to population centres. Difficulties range from little more than a strenuous hike up a very big hill, to more complex ascents involving scrambling up cliff bands, traversing narrow ridges, ascending steep gullies and moving up moderately steep snow slopes. On some routes you may need to know how to use specialized equipment such as an ice axe, crampons and very occasionally a length of climbing rope. Often the described route is not the only way up but is a route that has proven itself. Many of these routes have been in common use for decades, although more aesthetic (technical) lines often exist if you’re a purist.

Most scrambles in this book are day trips and so do not require a backpack full of camping gear. Many begin at roadside or have very good approach trails, so opportunities to experience quintessential Rockies bushwhacking, sadly, are few. Adequate information about trailheads and approaches is included, but for more detail The Canadian Rockies Trail Guide, by Brian Patton and Bart Robinson, covers the national parks, while Gillean Daffern’s trail guides cover Kananaskis Country.

Preserving what is left

Despite developers’ and industry’s best efforts, much of the Rockies is still a pristine and special place. But every time you wander off an established trail to shortcut a switchback or tramp across a delicate alpine meadow, damage occurs. If enough people do this, a dirt path develops; then rain creates a muddy track. Successive parties detour around it, widening the mudhole, and so it goes. Think before you boldly charge off the trail to blaze your own way. Just because you don’t see a single soul on the route does not mean nobody else ever goes there, so don’t discard your snotty tissue or drink can along the way. Logical, I know, but the evidence shows that it does escape some people. Mountain usage is rising steadily, so we must all do what we can to keep these places as unspoiled as possible. If seeing a teahouse being built on a mountain riles you, take a stand against it. Our elected officials have shown they are only too happy to approve development despite strong public opinion against it. Blame it on M-O-N-E-Y. If Banff and Canmore are indicators, then clearly much of the business sector sees the Rockies as their own quick ticket to riches, even if it is a national park. Preservation be damned.

We recreationists cannot afford to sit back and idly watch our special places disappear, but bit by bit, that is precisely what is happening. If we hikers, climbers, bikers and scramblers cannot treat the mountains with care and respect, then we cannot fault developers and politicians, even if they desecrate on a vastly larger scale.

Avoiding death by scrambling

Scrambling can not only be hazardous to your life, it can end it completely. Scrambling kills. For one reason or another, people have already died on routes described in this book. Over the last few years, a typical scrambling accident has involved a young male from Eastern Canada working a summer job in either Banff or Lake Louise. This person is full of energy and surrounded by impressive-looking mountains, but has no experience.

By distributing pamphlets to employers and displaying posters, Parks Canada has tried to inform this group in an effort to reduce future accidents. Unfortunately, the trend will probably continue, despite an abundance of information available. Still, information alone won’t always keep you out of trouble. All the reading in the world is no substitute for experience, and it is not the intention of the author to suggest otherwise.

Undertaking any of the trips mentioned in this volume is a potentially HAZARDOUS ACTIVITY and COULD KILL YOU. Particular phrases used in route descriptions may lead the reader to believe that little danger or difficulty is involved. This is NOT TRUE. Mountains are inherently dangerous and scrambling can be doubly dangerous. Participants are advised to go with caution and select a route within their level of ability and experience. If you’re not sure what your abilities are, maybe you don’t have any ability. Those without proper skills and experience should enroll in an appropriate course given by a recognized mountain school or hire a mountain guide who is accredited by the Union internationale des associations d’alpinisme (UIAA). I fully advocate appropriate training. However, in the past, climbing schools focused more on moderate rock climbing and rope-handling procedures rather than on how to identify and avoid technical terrain. The Yamnuska climbing school has a scrambling course and that would be a good starting point. Knowing the basics is important, but routefinding is a more important element to safe scrambling. In reality, routefinding cannot be taught; it is a skill that develops (hopefully!) over time.

Once you have proper training under your pack belt, the next step is to go with experienced people. Clubs such as the Alpine Club of Canada bring climbers together and offer courses, group outings and a chance to meet potential trip partners.

The biggest killer in the mountains may well be blind enthusiasm. Do not allow it to overshadow good judgment; keep your goal in perspective. Realize that no matter how hard you push or how fast you go, somebody will always be faster than you. Instead, you may as well settle for having fun and doing it safely. If conditions don’t seem right or you do not feel comfortable on the route, be smart and TURN BACK. It could save your life.

Anyone climbing mountains should strive to develop and refine their own mountain skills and rely less on the skill and judgment of others. As you do, your level of confidence and margin of safety will rise accordingly. That way you will be less dependent on written route information and can make sound decisions on your own. Do not put unbridled faith in the information contained in this or any other guidebook. Develop and use your own judgment too. Persons following any advice or suggestions within these pages do so entirely at their own risk. The risk in scrambling is DYING. Be careful.

Climbing schools

Here are a few of the longer-established schools. Check locally for others.

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Suite 200, Summit Centre 50,

Lincoln Park

Canmore, AB T1W 3E9

403-678-4164

info@yamnuska.com

Peter Amann Guiding

Box 1495

Jasper, AB T0E 1E0

780-852-3237

pamann@incentre.net

Rescue Dynamics

5109 17A Avenue NW

Edmonton, AB T6L 1K5

780-461-5040

rescuedynamics.ca

Useful guidebooks

A Hiker’s Guide to Scrambling Safely, by Tom Morin

The Canadian Rockies Trail Guide, by Brian Patton and Bart Robinson

Kananaskis Country Trail Guide, 4th ed., 5 vols., by Gillean Daffern

Hiking Lake Louise, by Mike Potter

The Wonder of Yoho, by Don Beers

The World of Lake Louise, by Don Beers

Backcountry Banff, by Mike Potter

Banff–Assiniboine: A Beautiful World, by Don Beers

Jasper–Robson: A Taste of Heaven, by Don Beers

Backcountry Biking in the Canadian Rockies, by Doug Eastcott

Scrambling in the Canadian Rockies

The Canadian Rockies are truly one of the great mountain ranges of the world and are unique in many ways. Although they do not attain the lofty 14,000-ft. elevations of their counterparts in the United States, the Canadian Rockies are undeniably craggier and more impressive. Similarly, while particular peaks in the Cascade Range of the Pacific Northwest may be somewhat more rugged, many barely rise above treeline. The volcanoes, obviously, are an exception. Yet, upon reaching the summit of a Cascade volcano, one sees perhaps only two or three other volcanoes rising skyward with few summits of note in between.

Europe’s Alps may outshine Canada’s Rockies for sheer magnificence of form, but sadly from every summit one sees a proliferation of mountain railways, gondola lifts, roads and hotels. Climber pampers themselves in warm huts offering hot meals, wine and bedding. Routefinding involves following paint splotches and hordes of other people, and not surprisingly any feeling of wilderness has long since disappeared.

Great ranges like the Himalayas and the Andes do surpass the Rockies in many respects, but access can be both dangerous and difficult. To many, simply staying healthy throughout the visit presents a considerable challenge, never mind trying to reach a summit.

By comparison, Canada’s Rockies boast the grandeur of innumerable craggy, glaciated peaks, difficult and remote, yet also offer myriad easier ascents close to roads. Glacially scoured basins contain pristine alpine lakes and flower-strewn meadows. Elk, bear and moose roam free, and from every mountaintop one witnesses an endless sea of summits – entertainment for a lifetime. Welcome to the Canadian Rockies!

Climate and season

Summer in the Canadian Rockies is short. Sometimes it doesn’t even show up. The climbing season is highly affected by weather patterns, and conditions in any given area vary from year to year and range to range. An old-timer once remarked that a year in the Rockies is 10 months of winter and two months of poor sleddin’. He probably hadn’t visited the Columbia Icefield: 12 months of good sleddin’!

The early scrambling season is confined to the eastern part of the Rockies in the Front Ranges. These areas are generally a little warmer and experience less precipitation, whether snow or rain. Typical examples lie east of Canmore, east of Jasper and in parts of the Crowsnest Pass. Here, south- and west-facing slopes come into condition as early as May and June. East-facing ones require a few weeks more. North-facing slopes take longer still, and in a cold, wet year, snow patches persist all year.

As you travel farther west in the Rockies, temperatures become slightly cooler and precipitation greater, especially along the Continental Divide and the Main Ranges. Lake Louise is wetter than Banff, which is wetter than Kananaskis Valley. Some of the most inclement weather occurs at the Columbia Icefield, between Lake Louise and Jasper. The mean yearly temperature is a brisk –2.1° Celsius, making Banff’s +2.5° balmy by comparison. Farther south, Denver, Colorado, tops in at a sizzling +10°! Tropical, you might say.

Not only are the Main Ranges cooler, but they also include the highest peaks. It is often mid-July or later before snow-free climbing can be done here. Ideal conditions may be as brief as a couple of weeks or, in a cool, wet year, may not occur at all. Conversely, an extended autumn after the first snowfall, generally referred to as Indian Summer, can stretch the scrambling season through September and into late October or even November. The occasional El Niño year may allow scrambling right into December. Autumn often rewards the enthusiastic peakbagger with crisp mornings, stable weather and an absence of crowds or annoying insects. Drawbacks are the noticeably shorter daylight, the return of snow on the high summits and verglas (ice) on rocks.

Mountain bikes

Mountain bikes are of limited use for most scrambles in this book. Bike use is severely restricted in national parks and is allowed only on fire roads such as Redearth Creek and the Temple Lodge access road at Lake Louise. Kananaskis has fewer restrictions, but not many scrambles there actually benefit from a mountain bike. The Elbow recreation area is an exception where approaches follow old roads.

Registration

Voluntary registration is available in national and provincial parks at warden and ranger offices and at information centres in Kananaskis Country. Registration gives park staff justification for purchasing rescue equipment and maintaining trained personnel, so it is a worthwhile step based on that alone. Remember, if you do register, you are legally required to sign in upon returning. If you fail to sign in, an unnecessary and costly search could be initiated, and YOU can be billed for the entire amount. Be aware that rescues are NEVER initiated until the following day, so you should always carry warm clothing and extra food and be prepared to survive a night out. It is worthwhile to inform others of your plans or, if you do not register, leave an itinerary somewhere in your vehicle. Eventually authorities will scour it for clues and will know where to pick up your body to keep the mountain pristine. At the time of writing, the cost of rescues is still borne by taxpayers, but with government cutbacks this may well change in future. Although the rescue budget in one park in a recent year amounted to much less than 0.5% of their total budget, outdoor adventurers in the mountains are perceived by government as generating little direct revenue and by some taxpayers as being a drain on finances. This misinformation makes us an easy target. Accordingly, future rescue budgets may be reduced, with the shortfall being covered through some form of surcharge. This might be a good idea in some cases. In Kananaskis in particular there are definite examples of negligence resulting in rescues that could have been avoided. Had the parties been billed for it, they might well use common sense and make better decisions in future.

Permits

All visitors stopping in a national park require a valid national park pass, available at park entrance gates and information centres. In addition, overnight stays in the national park backcountry campsites require a wilderness pass, which costs about $10 per night. Annual permits are also available. At the time of writing, there are no additional permits required for picnicking, sightseeing, photographing or shopping – yet.

Time, directions, grid references

In this book, suggested round-trip times cover a range and are based on both personal experience and that of acquaintances. This time assumes the participant is fit, able and doesn’t dawdle. People who hike, bike and jog regularly should fall into this category. Anyone who occasionally strolls the interpretive paths for exercise will be out of their league on these scrambles. A general guideline for a comfortable ascent pace is 300 m (1000 ft.) per hour, and fit parties will have few problems maintaining this pace.

Directions given are referenced relative to the direction of travel, and where any doubt might arise, a compass bearing is included too.

Maps listed are the 1:50,000 scale National Topographic System series. These are available at many information centres and outdoors stores. To pinpoint a precise location, six-digit references to grid coordinates are frequently mentioned in this book, and an explanation of this locating method may be found on the border of each NTS map. Some of these locations are from the map and are estimates only although quite a few now are derived from actual GPS readings (NAD 83) that I have done more recently. In most cases beaten paths and cairns exist and specific GPS locations are unnecessary. Google Earth, the poor man’s helicopter, provides a unique aerial overview of scramble peaks and approaches but unfortunately lacks enough detail to accurately assess actual technical difficulty. Maps shown in this book are intended only to show the positions of mountains relative to highways.

Gradings

First of all, ratings apply only when conditions are DRY. Simple descriptions of easy, moderate and difficult have been adopted, and where appropriate, additional information such as the exposure (potential fall distance) may be included. This grading system does not equate directly to existing systems of grading climbs. Easy and moderate scrambles are in the UIAA class I to class II range. Scrambles rated as difficult would normally be about YDS class 3 to 4, UIAA class III. In some instances there could be a move or two approaching class 5. For example, Mount Smuts may have a section of about 5.2 or 5.3, but routes do not generally involve any climbing near that level. A better explanation of these ratings might be:

Easy: mostly hiking, much hands in pockets stuff, little exposure, no maintained trail. Not surprisingly, easy scrambles are not really scrambling at all but are mostly off-trail hiking. Mount Bourgeau and the south peak of Mount Indefatigable are prime examples. UIAA class I; almost idiot-proof.

Moderate: frequent use of handholds required; possible exposure but not usually enough to be a death fall. Some routefinding involved, e.g., Big Sister, Cascade Mountain and Mount Kidd. Class II.

Difficult: much use of handholds required, sections may be steep, loose and exposed or rock could be smooth and downsloping. Fall distance may be significant enough to be fatal. Routefinding skills are generally necessary to determine the most practical and feasible way for specific sections. Less experienced parties might prefer the security of a climbing rope for short sections, and being off-route may well require technical climbing. Anyone with vertigo or a fear of heights should avoid scrambles rated as difficult. Sounds logical, but you’d be surprised. Examples are Mount Lady Macdonald, Mount Whyte and Mount Carnarvon. YDS class 3 or 4, rarely YDS class 5 or UIAA III.

The most technically demanding scrambles are described as climber’s scrambles or mountaineering scrambles if glacier travel is involved. Examples are mounts French and Robertson. Even on climber’s scrambles, the degree of difficulty should still be below mid-class 5. For what it’s worth, I did not ever scramble anything harder than that on any routes and I certainly don’t (can’t!) anymore. I was never that bold and was often alone. While some might consider using a rope on harder scrambles, unless you are also belaying and protecting the route as you go then you are probably safer without the rope on – especially the belayer. By definition, once you don the rope you are no longer scrambling.

As compared to other forms of rock such as quartzite, limestone is a high-friction medium. Nonetheless, when wet, snowy or icy, scramble routes become much harder. Many scrambles are then climbs and mountaineering ascents that require technical climbing gear and use of anchors and belay techniques. THESE SCRAMBLE RATINGS ARE APPLICABLE ONLY IN OPTIMAL CONDITIONS: DRY AND FREE OF SNOW. Some years, dry conditions may not even occur on some routes.

Unroped scrambling is one of the most potentially dangerous mountain activities, especially where exposure (fall distance) is significant. This fact is well supported by accident statistics. Slipping on snow, slipping on loose rock and handhold pullout are leading causes. Just because another party has made the ascent or descent safely does not mean it will be safe for you too. Consider that the other party might just be top-notch alpinists and are simply out having an easy day.

Be aware that climbing back down is more difficult than climbing up. If the ascent makes you uncomfortable, it is certain to be tougher on descent. Think of this before committing yourself: could you climb back down? If you are unsure, consider an alternative objective. An easier route on a different mountain may be much more enjoyable. Scrambling should not be thought of as a high-risk, extreme, wild and crazy adventure sport. It is not. It is a rewarding recreation that should be done as safely as possible.

Equipment

Wear the proper boots! The only really suitable footwear for scrambling is a pair of sturdy leather boots with a cleated Vibram sole and a half or three-quarter shank for rigidity. Running shoes and ultralight hiking boots are unsuitable, as they give too little ankle support and protection on talus slopes. Improper footwear is a contributing factor in many of the mountain accidents that require a rescue. I believe that anyone requiring a rescue due to improper footwear should either pay for the rescue or carry their own pair of crutches. Full-shank ice-climbing and mountaineering boots are overkill but will work.

Ski poles and trekking poles are particularly useful on many scrambles where much loose scree makes forward progress tedious. They also save wear and tear on the knees on descent and are invaluable for stream crossings and slippery logs. Three-section collapsible models are easily stowed in a pack and weigh little, but beware of them collapsing unexpectedly. I have found the type using a small lever to lock them in place to be more reliable than those with a rotational twist lock mechanism. As well, poles can make you look larger if threatened by wildlife.

Certain routes may warrant carrying an ice axe and perhaps crampons, depending on snow remaining. Many parties carry an ice axe as a matter of course. You must also know how to use this equipment: see the list of instructional schools for appropriate courses. Steeper routes where you must ascend rock bands are likely places to wear a helmet, especially if other parties are on the route ahead of you.

Other useful equipment available includes satellite phones that give the user telephone access even in remote locations and hand-held devices called SPOT transceivers. These small electronic devices can be configured to either update your progress to someone via satellite or to send a distress signal to proper authorities along with a GPS location. This will then initiate a rescue. Depending on where the rescue occurs, you may be charged for the entire cost. The tops of some scramble peaks do have cell phone access but don’t count on it. Satellite phones would be a sure thing. Better yet, stay safe – any fool can get into trouble, but it takes a smarter fool to stay out of trouble.

Clothing

Versatility is the key word in dressing for success in the mountains. Functional synthetics that can be layered to cover a wide variety of mountain weather and temperatures are what the fashionable scramblers are wearing this season. This wardrobe should include a raincoat (such as GoreTex), windpants, toque, wool gloves, cap, pile or fleece jacket, a wool or synthetic shirt and a synthetic undershirt. A pair of calf-height gaiters keeps debris out of boots. Although cotton shirts depicting loons and bears may be fine for Main Street Banff, they provide little warmth when wet and are downright miserable on a chilly mountain top.

Damp clothing can result in a drop in body core temperature, a condition known as hypothermia. Further deterioration can result in death. This condition includes cold hands and feet, fatigue, irritability, excessive shivering, dullness, inability to use the hands, lack of coordination, slurred speech, apathy and irrational actions. And all because of a loon