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    Studio Anywhere 2: Hard Light: A Photographer's Guide to Shaping Hard Light
    Studio Anywhere 2: Hard Light: A Photographer's Guide to Shaping Hard Light
    Studio Anywhere 2: Hard Light: A Photographer's Guide to Shaping Hard Light
    Ebook356 pages1 hour

    Studio Anywhere 2: Hard Light: A Photographer's Guide to Shaping Hard Light

    By Nick Fancher

    3.5/5

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    About this ebook

    In Studio Anywhere 2: Hard Light, photographer and author Nick Fancher builds on the success of his previous book (Studio Anywhere: A Photographer’s Guide to Shooting in Unconventional Locations) as he continues to offer candid, practical, and valuable lessons on how to create successful and fresh photographs armed with only minimal gear, a resourceful mind, and a creative spirit.

    The heart and soul of Studio Anywhere 2: Hard Light resemble its predecessor, but this time Nick focuses his approach on hard light, demonstrating how to use it in innovative and flattering ways, working with subjects ranging from products to people. You’ll learn:

    • How to work with both available light (e.g., the sun) and manufactured light (such as inexpensive small flash)
    • How to shape, bounce, and manipulate your unmodified flash to get the results you want
    • The importance of proper light placement and ambient balance• How to create dramatic, intentional photographs with hard light
    • DIY techniques for making your own gobos and photo hacks (such as with a reflector)
    • How to incorporate colored gels into your work to create expressive and innovative imagery
    • Post-processing tricks and techniques that Nick uses to achieve the final look of the image

    Included in the book are behind-the-scenes photos, lighting diagrams, and Lightroom settings for many scenarios, so the reader can follow along from idea through the shoot and on to the final edit. There is also a feature throughout the book called “Making a Scene” where, upon being presented with an “empty” scene, you’re challenged to figure out where you might place your subject and your light(s) in order to achieve a specific effect or result. At the back of the book, Nick shows you how he chose to tackle each scenario. The goal is to train yourself to look at the everyday, commonplace locations and scenarios you encounter and begin to see them full of photographic potential.

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRocky Nook
    Release dateNov 2, 2016
    ISBN9781681982281
    Studio Anywhere 2: Hard Light: A Photographer's Guide to Shaping Hard Light
    Author

    Nick Fancher

    Nick Fancher is a Columbus, Ohio–based portrait and commerce photographer. He graduated from The Ohio State University with a BFA in fine art photography in 2005. His clients have included JackThreads, ESPN Magazine, The Ohio State University, CVS, and Getty. He adores good coffee, music, and the film work of Charlie Kaufman. He can be found online at nickfancher.com, @nickfancher (Twitter and Instagram), and nickfancherphoto (Facebook).

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      Book preview

      Studio Anywhere 2 - Nick Fancher

      INTRODUCTION

      WHY HARD LIGHT?

      First off, let me preface by stating what this book is not. This book is not strictly hard light scenarios. Though it is mainly focused on scenarios using hard light, this book does include a few scenarios that involve mixing in a soft light source or softening an otherwise hard light source, so don’t email to inform me of this oversight. Secondly, this book isn’t a manual. As a matter of fact, I rarely even read manuals. Even Ikea instruction manuals, which are chock full of helpful illustrations, barely get a glance from me. I’d rather dive right in and figure it out as I go. What this book is, however, is a compilation of techniques, hacks, and tips that I’ve figured out or picked up over the years that build upon the techniques discussed in my previous book.

      The main reason I rarely read manuals is that I am extremely impatient. Whenever I am buying a new piece of gear, it’s because I have thought about it and worked up to it for a while, so by the time the package arrives in the mail, the last thing I want to do is sit and read about it. I tear open the packaging, load up the batteries, and start shooting. Many times this results in my failure; I miss some important feature or do things out of order and have to backtrack. This haphazard manner of working isn’t for everyone, but it allows me to figure things out in my own way and to discover some wonderful, unconventional ways of doing things.

      Nor is this book a glorified list of a bunch of gear you need to buy, which you may not be able to afford anyway, and it’s not meant to be an exhaustive guide to hard light, either.

      Instead, I envision Studio Anywhere 2 to be what I would have wanted to be included in the packaging when I bought my first flashgun: part manual, part compilation of ideas and techniques that has taken years to develop and perfect. The techniques in this book are predominantly for hard-light scenarios—i.e., scenarios lit with harsh, unmodified light. But this book is about more than that. It’s also about how to manipulate, soften, and all-around shape light from an unmodified flashgun. Think about it: If all you needed to light any given scenario was one or two flashguns with few to no modifiers, you wouldn’t need a team of assistants and thousands of dollars worth of lights and light modifiers to make the shot. Sound good? Keep reading.

      HARD VERSUS SOFT

      Preferences are subjective. Especially when it comes to the needs of a client. One client loves candid, on-the-fly shots while another prefers more polished, composed images. One Creative Director prefers natural light while their predecessor was only pleased with studio lighting. What I’ve learned to do is not get too comfortable in one particular niche of the industry and not take it personal if a client changes their mind after seeing my images mid-shoot. Maybe at first they thought that they wanted hard light, but after the shoot begins, they start asking for me to minimize shadows, and by the end of the shoot, I may end up firing a softbox through a scrim (FYI, that means extra, extra, extra soft light).

      One of my regular clients is Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams, a high-end ice cream boutique that started in Columbus, Ohio, over 10 years ago but has expanded across the country. They brought me on to help elevate their brand through photography. They showed me images of what they’ve been producing—which was really solid, beautiful work—but expressed a desire to start pushing in a new direction. They really liked my vibrant colors and hard shadows and thought we’d make a great team. They were right. But every shoot doesn’t consist of me just winging it, lighting according to the mood I’m in that day. I’ve learned that sometimes they still do want beautiful, soft light. So for the sake of time, money, and ice cream, I’ve learned to sometimes give them both soft and hard options for the same setup.

      In Figure I.1 you can see my setup. I have an unmodified flash on a stand to the left, giving me hard light. I am also using the Jeni’s studio Paul C. Buff Einstein light, seen on the right, modified with a softbox to give me soft light. Figure I.2 is the hard light image. Note the presence of the hard, black shadows and how they take up space between the products, leaving less blue space. The shadows actually become a style element in the image. In contrast, the soft light image in Figure I.3 is almost shadowless. This results in more of the blue backdrop occupying real estate in the final image. I actually prefer the hard light image. How about you?

      Figure I.1 This setup was for a Jeni’s Ice Cream product shoot. I was providing them with both a hard light (light on the left) and a soft light (light on the right) option for each image.

      Figure I.2 The hard light shot. The presence of hard shadows adds another element to the image, lessening the blue space between objects and creating a fuller image.

      Figure I.3 The soft light shot. The shadows are softer and even non-existent in some spots, leaving more space for the blue background.

      THE GREAT LIGHT HYPE

      Broncolor or Profoto? Fender or Gibson? Lamborghini or Ferrari? Which toy/software/high-end piece of gear is the best so that I can do exactly what my favorite photographer is able to do?

      This is a mentality that many photographers, musicians, and hobbyists share. Yes, high-end gear is nice. Both Profoto and Broncolor lights will provide you with quality light at a high output with which to light agency-represented models in couture clothing. But how often is that caliber of gear actually needed? The question should not be, Which expensive, high-end lighting rig should I buy? Rather, it should be, Have I yet reached the limitations of my current gear?

      I’ve been asked why I opt for such a minimal or even anti-gear approach to photography, while other photographers laud gear upgrades. Well, it’s not a choice made by moral reasons or even necessity; it’s one of preference. I like traveling light and working alone. A big gear kit requires help to haul it, room to store it, and money to fund it. No thank you. This was not a decision that I came to overnight, but one that was forged through years of working with the only gear I could afford.

      When I first launched my business in 2007, all I had in terms of gear was a Canon 20D, one 430 EX flashgun (which didn’t have a port for a transmitter, so I couldn’t use it off-camera), a piece of junk 18–55mm f/3.5–5.6 kit lens, and a Sigma 70–200mm f/2.8 lens (without image stabilization). Let’s say, for example, that I wanted to get an off-camera flash shot. I would put my camera on a tripod and do a long exposure, walking over to the subject and manually popping the flash (think light painting). It was far from ideal, but I sure learned the limitations of my gear. It also gave me plenty of time to think about what piece of gear I needed next.

      If your eyes don’t work well, everything that you look at will appear out of focus or hazy. So it goes with camera lenses. Upgrading my glass, I decided, would need to come first. I shelved my kit lens in favor of a (used) 24–70L. Now I was in business. My image quality improved considerably. The next step was getting a couple (affordable) flashes with triggers, so I wasn’t running around, flash in hand, hoping it would be dark enough for me to do a long exposure. I opted for the LumoPro LP160 flash unit, purchasing two, along with three PocketWizard wireless remote triggers. The whole transaction set me back $600, which was a big number for me at the time.

      Getting reliable light and a quality image enabled me to realize that my camera sensor—a cropped 8-megapixel sensor—just wasn’t giving me what I needed. Even with good light and good glass, my camera wasn’t up to snuff with other, more current bodies on the market. However, I still couldn’t afford the Canon 5DII, which had just hit the scene. I got a 40D instead. Although the sensor was still cropped, the quality was a bit better, and because I was taking on more paid photo gigs, I needed more reliable gear—not to mention a second camera body, so I’d have a backup if one failed.

      Seven years later, I now have the ideal gear setup, but it’s not identical to the setup of any other photographer. It’s completely mine, unique to my needs. If I had simply used a $10,000 credit line when I first launched my business and bought a bunch of gear that other people said were must haves, I would’ve cheated myself out of the learning process. My shooting and lighting process is now different than any other photographer’s because it had time to evolve and grow. Through this learning process, I have found that I need only two (prime) lenses and I prefer to use flashguns to studio strobes. On the rare occasion that I am shooting tight interiors, I’ll rent a 16–35mm lens, or if I am shooting small product, such as jewelry, I’ll rent a 100mm macro lens, and add the rental costs to the client’s bill.

      Don’t get me wrong. Studio strobe systems, such as Profoto, are fantastic—a luxury but not, I dare say, a necessity. They provide a consistent (high) output and color temperature. If I were strictly shooting in the studio, a Profoto system would be perfect—I even owned one for about a year. Once I was making enough money in my business to afford one, I bought a used Acute2 pack with two heads, excited about the increase in power I would have. I was excited to shoot portraits in full daylight, eclipsing the sun with my output. The problem was not only did I need a 10-pound battery pack to accompany the already 25-pound light kit, but my lights were also tethered to the pack. The farthest each light could be moved from the pack was about 10 feet on either side, without getting power cord extensions, which would mean more money and more weight. Additionally, there were cords running everywhere and I needed an assistant to help lug the massive gear kit which, with light stands and sand bags, was well over 100 pounds (before adding in the weight of my camera and lenses). This meant booking an assistant, which meant even more money and planning and less spontaneity—no more running and gunning, which is how I prefer to roll.

      After realizing this large light system

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