Let's Go Budget London: The Student Travel Guide
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Let's Go Budget Guides are for travelers who want to spend less but have more fun, students with more time than money, and anyone who appreciates a good deal. Let's Go Budget guides are written by Harvard student researchers. And who better than a starving student to figure out how to stretch a budgetand discover what's free and fun along the way?
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Let's Go Budget London - Harvard Student Agencies, Inc.
Contents
Discover London
Planning Your Trip
Maps
Accommodations
Sights
Food
Nightlife
Arts and Culture
Shopping
Essentials
London 101
Beyond Tourism
Index
Copyright Page
Quick Reference
Discover London
Budget London
HAVE YOUR JELLIED EELS AND EAT ‘EM TOO
FREEBIES
A HOSTEL FIT FOR THE QUEEN
PINCHING PENCE
What To Do
MUSEUM HEAVEN ON EARTH
HOLD THE WHOLE WORLD, IN YOUR STOMACH
TO BEER OR NOT TO BEER?
BEYOND TOURISM
STUDENT SUPERLATIVES
Most people have a well-defined idea of London
—staid tradition, afternoon tea, heavy ales, and cultured accents in tweed. People with this notion of London can easily complete their vacation in 3min. by making their way to the banks of the Thames and staring pointedly at the gilded heights of Big Ben, but this would be to miss the true charm of this expansive, diverse place.
Despite its weighty history, the city today is not all ghost tours, beefeaters, and double-decker buses. Beyond Buckingham Palace and the blinding lights of Piccadilly Circus, London is a living, breathing metropolis, home to more people than any other city in the European Union. Comprised of 32 boroughs along with the City, London can seem at times more like a conglomerate of villages than a unified city, but each part’s unique heritage and character contributes to the big picture. Thanks to the feisty independence and diversity of each area, the London buzz
is continually on the move—every few years a previously disregarded neighborhood explodes into cultural prominence. Wander between immigrant neighborhoods in East London, take part in a political rally in Trafalgar Square, and watch the Olympics return to the city for a third time. Each day in London brings something new, so finish up your pint and Let’s Go!
Budget London
HAVE YOUR JELLIED EELS AND EAT ‘EM TOO
Don’t worry, you don’t need to resort to eels to eat cheaply in London.
PIE MINISTER: This punny pie shop offers some of the best English eats in the city at some of the best prices; it’s sure to leave you satis-pied.
FRANCO MANCA: Order an individual pizza at this South London pizzeria. It’s just like stepping through a wormhole to Naples.
CITY CÀPHÊ: Vietnamese bánh mì is your best bet for a delicious, cheap sandwich in the City.
FREEBIRD BURRITOS: We used to say it was impossible to find a good burrito in London. Then we found Freebird.
LE MERCURY: This is one of the best values in London; proof that good French food doesn’t have to be expensive.
A HOSTEL FIT FOR THE QUEEN
It can be hard to find budget accommodations in this notoriously pricey city. Good thing we’ve got you covered.
PALMER’S LODGE: This refurbished Victorian mansion (once home to a biscuit magnate), is one of the highest-rated hostels in the city.
CLINK 78: Ever wanted to sleep in a jail that you could check out of? This expertly renovated old jail and courthouse is a great place to make your dreams come true (though the cells
aren’t for the claustrophobic).
ASTOR HYDE PARK: Where else can you find hostel rooms with French windows and domed glass skylights? Aged grandeur and comfort mark this flagship of the Astor chain.
ST. CHRISTOPHER’S VILLAGE: A proud party hostel with lots of amenities, organized activities, and local character.
Freebies
PINCHING PENCE
London may be one of the most expensive cities in the world, but armed with the right guide (this one) you can experience much of what it has to offer without having to pawn the family jewels.
TAKE THE TUBE: Unless you’re up to walking a marathon each day, the Tube will be your cheapest way of getting around. Plan efficient journeys to save money. The Piccadilly Line, which runs between Central London and Heathrow, is the cheapest way to get to and from the airport.
OYSTER CARDS: Get a reusable Oyster Card and save yourself up to 50% on all London public transportation. You can also buy 1- and 3-day passes, or weekly, monthly, and annual Travelcards that give you unlimited rides (within specific zones) for their duration.
SKIP SPECIAL EXHIBITIONS: London’s incredible free museums are big enough that you’ll have plenty to see without shelling out for the special exhibits.
SKIP TOURISTY SPOTS FOR SIMILAR, FREE ALTERNATIVES: For example, instead of going to the kitschy Tower of London (nearly £20), get your history on at the Museum of London (free).
What To Do
MUSEUM HEAVEN ON EARTH
Luckily for budget travelers, many of London’s world-class museums are completely free. Though there are countless great options, here are four that are unmissable. The British Museum’s mind-blowing collection, ranging from the Elgin Marbles to the Rosetta Stone, will show you the full power of the British Empire. After that crash course in Western civilization, get another on Western art at the National Gallery. The Victoria and Albert Museum contains design exhibits on all cultures and time periods. Finally, the Tate Modern will show you all the big names of 20th-century art—including Duchamp, Pollock, and Warhol—and have you wondering just what is going on in a lot of the works. And you can simply stroll into all of these museums without paying any admission fee.
HOLD THE WHOLE WORLD, IN YOUR STOMACH
Other than admiring the relics in the British Museum, the best way to experience the legacy of the British Empire is to tour London’s many delicious ethnic eateries. The city is brimming with great Indian food, but Durbar in Notting Hill has been producing some of the best of it for 54 years. You can also fill up on spicy comfort food at Negril, a great Afro-Caribbean joint in Brixton. Many swear that Sufi in Shepherd’s Bush makes the best Persian food in the city, while Mien Tay has the best price-to-quality ratio of East London’s many Vietnamese eateries.
TO BEER OR NOT TO BEER?
Feel like a challenge? Try counting all the pubs in London. Or, save yourself the time and just visit the best. Dove will make you feel truly English as you sample its local ales at a picnic table on the banks of the Thames. Cask can only be described as Beer Heaven. At The Drayton Arms, you can enjoy your ale while watching a play in the black-box theater or curled up in front of the fireplace. And for a cool pub without pretension, grab a drink at The Goldhawk.
BEYOND TOURISM
Ready to take a break from drinking Newcastle and counting churches? Get more involved with British culture by studying, working, or volunteering in London. You can legislate with a Parliamentary internship, hustle as a paid fundraiser for Greenpeace, or make the whole world your stage by studying acting at Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre.
Student Superlatives
Planning Your Trip
WHEN TO GO
NEIGHBORHOODS
The City of London
The West End
Westminster
The South Bank
South Kensington and Chelsea
Hyde Park to Notting Hill
Marylebone and Bloomsbury
North London
East London
South London
West London
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
Cheap Date
How to Spend a Very British London Sunday
A Three-Day Weekend in London
To say that London is a sizeable city is to adopt the infamous British tendency for understatement. London is bloody massive. The central knot of museums, historical sights, shopping, and entertainment stretches along the Thames from the City of London (yes, a city within a city) through the West End to Westminster. The luxurious residential neighborhoods of Chelsea, Kensington, Notting Hill, and Marylebone lie to the north and west. Add in the university neighborhood of Bloomsbury and the culturally prominent South Bank and you’ve got the whole of central London in a nice package.
Now for the fun bits. With sky-high rents in the city center, the beating heart of city life has migrated a few miles out from the center. North London is the most upscale, East London is home to the city’s hip and artsy, and South and West London are defined by their large immigrant communities (and great ethnic cuisine).
Navigating the sprawl of London can be incredibly frustrating. Fortunately, the ever-obliging Brits plaster the city center with maps, which can be found reliably at bus stops. If you don’t want to leave your direction to chance, you can always out shell out for the all-knowing A-Z city map.
Icons
WHEN TO GO
The first thing to know is that, in London, just about any day of the year can be warm, cold, or extremely wet. That said, the summer months offer the best odds of at least not being cold and wet at the same time. Festivals like the Notting Hill Carnival and the BBC Proms help make July and August the liveliest months in the city. In 2012, the Olympics will be taking place from July 27 to August 12, so the city will be busier, livelier, and more expensive than ever for those two weeks. The low season (November through March) is when you can find the best deals on airfare and accommodations, so long as rainy (and sometimes snowy) weather doesn’t cramp your sightseeing style too much.
NEIGHBORHOODS
The City of London
One of the oldest and most historic parts of London, the City of London, often referred to as the City,
is home to many of London’s finest (and most crowded) tourist attractions as well as the city’s financial center. The City holds many of London’s Roman artifacts, including vestiges of the ancient London Wall. Next to these relics, the spires of famous churches are juxtaposed with the towers of powerful insurance companies. Many old buildings are marked by two of the city’s most devastating tragedies: the Great Fire of 1666 (which destroyed 80% of the city in five days) and the German Blitz during WWII. The fantastic architecture that either survived these calamities or replaced the less fortunate buildings now stands as a monument to London’s resilient spirit. As you head farther north, the City fades into Farringdon and Clerkenwell, which provide something of a buffer zone from East London. Here you’ll find a mix of the yuppie-gentrified City and the hipster-gentrified East; somehow, this turns out to be a magical combination, producing quirky pubs and terrific food.
Reign, Reign, Go Away
The West End
The West End is one of the largest, most exciting parts of London. Its twin hearts are Soho and Covent Garden, but the neighborhood encompasses the area between Bloomsbury and the Thames, from the edge of Hyde Park to the City of London. Within that expanse are some of the city’s best public museums (such as the National Gallery and the National Portrait Gallery), world-famous theater, interesting restaurants, loads of shopping, and vibrant nightlife. You can find just about anything you’re looking for here (except maybe a good curry—Indian culture is strangely absent in this part of London).
Soho, most easily accessible via Tottenham Court Road, is one of the hipper and seedier parts of London. Home to one of the city’s most prominent GLBT communities, Soho bursts at the seams with nightlife for gay and straight clubgoers alike. By day, this area (particularly Chinatown, located off Gerrard St.) is known for its excellent restaurants. North of Soho, Oxford Street is the capital of London shopping streets, with department stores and cavernous flagships of major clothing chains. Smaller boutiques and many salons can also be found in this part of town. To the south and west, the buildings get fancier and the streets are quieter in regal neighborhoods like St James’s. All in all, the West End feels like one of the most touristy parts of the city, but perhaps that’s because it so conveniently encapsulates what London is (deservedly) famous for.
Westminster
Westminster lays claim to the remainder of London’s most famous sights unclaimed by the City of London. Between Westminster Abbey, the Houses of Parliament, and Buckingham Palace, Westminster still feels like the seat of the royal empire. Aside from these sights, though, there isn’t much to do here. Nearby Victoria is a transport hub, surrounded by fast-food restaurants and touristy pubs. South of Victoria lies Pimlico, a residential neighborhood offering a few accommodations, many of them on Belgrave Rd. This area is also home to some higher-quality places to eat and drink.
The South Bank
This neighborhood is located in the south of Central London on, you guessed it, the south bank of the Thames. Populated with the renovated factories of yore, the South Bank has undergone a renaissance, reinforcing its status as a hub of London entertainment. This reputation didn’t spring from nowhere: both the Rose and Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre once stood here. Now, the Southbank Centre hosts classical music concerts, films, and more. There are also some of the best museums and galleries in London, including the famous Tate Modern. Millennium Mile stretches from the London Eye in the west eastward along the Thames, making for a beautiful walk, especially around sunset. More than just a cultural or aesthetic destination, the area around London Bridge and Borough is full of great pubs and restaurants with an eye on quality, perhaps thanks to the local Borough Market.
South Kensington and Chelsea
Kensington and Chelsea—excuse us, the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea—is quite possibly the poshest part of London. And it knows it. The winding avenues and tree-lined side streets are full of mansions, columned townhouses, leafy gardens, and even