Aconcagua and the Southern Andes: Horcones Valley (Normal) and Vacas Valley (Polish Glacier) ascent routes

I grew up in this city, my poetry was born between the

mountain and the river, it took its voice from the rain,

and like the timber, it steeped itself in the forests.

Pablo Neruda (Chilean Poet)

About the author

Jim Ryan is a civil engineer by profession. A seasoned traveller, his lifelong passion for the mountains has taken him to many remote places. He has travelled, and written extensively, on some of the great walks of the world, such as in Nepal, Lesotho in South Africa, Kilimanjaro and the island of Reunion in the Indian Ocean. His guidebooks include Carrauntoohil and The MacGillycuddy Reeks and Scenic Walks in Killarney, as well as The Mountains of Nerja, published by Cicerone.

Jim has a special interest in geology. The mountain of Aconcagua and its region made a significant impression on him on his first journey there as part of an expedition in 1999/2000. He noted the lack of information on one of the world’s great mountains and produced this guidebook. This is the third update on the original issue.

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Fergus Humphries for producing the maps, to Eduardo Depetris, Pablo Reguera, Sebastian Tetilla, Angel Tetilla, Marco Garrido Dasté, Pedro Marzolo, Nito Giordano, Pancho Medina, Elias Lira, Gisela Palacios, Heber Orona, and to Professor John Gamble of University College Cork. Thanks to Quazi Shahriar Rahman for the picture of the Cólera campsite, to Arkaitz Mendia Arakama for the photo from the summit down the Canaleta, and to Xabi ‘Smithy’ Mujika for the pictures of Camp Guanacos, the Grande Acarreo and Camp Cólera. For this latest revision to the guide I was accompanied by my son, Dylan, and by my partner, Birgit Halir, both of whom I am indebted to for their support and patience.

ACONCAGUA

AND THE SOUTHERN ANDES

by Jim Ryan

JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS,

OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL

www.cicerone.co.uk

© Jim Ryan 2018

Third edition 2018

ISBN: 978 1 85284 974 0

Second edition 2009

First edition 2004

Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.

Warning

Mountaineering and mountain walking can be a dangerous activity carrying a risk of personal injury or death. It should be undertaken only by those with a full understanding of the risks and with the training and experience to evaluate them. While every care and effort has been taken in the preparation of this guide, the user should be aware that conditions can be highly variable and can change quickly, materially affecting the seriousness of a climb or expedition.

The mountains described in this book reach high altitudes. There are health risks in high-altitude climbing such as pulmonary and cerebral oedema (which can cause sickness and death); extreme temperatures (which can cause frostbite); and traversing over ice (risk of falling and sliding). Climbers are advised to be in good physical condition; to acclimatise and not too ascend too quickly; to keep a constant check on saturated oxygen level; to descend if they feel unwell; to consult a doctor before attempting high-altitude climbs; and to bring adequate medication, gear and clothing with them. Training in ice climbing, ropework and high-altitude problems is essential for the uninitiated.

Therefore, except for any liability that cannot be excluded by law, neither Cicerone nor the author accept liability for damage of any nature (including damage to property, personal injury or death) arising directly or indirectly from the information in this book.

Updates to this Guide

While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Please check the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk/974/updates) for any updates before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time.

The route maps in this guide are derived from publicly-available data, databases and crowd-sourced data. As such they have not been through the detailed checking procedures that would generally be applied to a published map from an official mapping agency, although naturally we have reviewed them closely in the light of local knowledge as part of the preparation of this guide. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to updates@cicerone.co.uk or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL, United Kingdom.

Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk.

Front cover: The route to Plaza Argentina (Vacas Valley Route)

CONTENTS

Index of maps and illustrations

Map key

Map of South America

Area maps in this guide

Aconcagua – Normal and Vacas Valley Routes

Routes to the summit

Summary of camps

Summary comparison of Normal and Vacas Valley Routes

Table of co-ordinates and elevations

Foreword by Sebastian Tetilla

Preface

A note on the third edition

INTRODUCTION

The mountain in context

Two trekking routes

Location

Geology

Topography

Maps and co-ordinates

Wildlife

History

Climbing history

Trekker/climber profiles

Weather

When to go

Getting there

Preparations

Acclimatisation

Guides and trekking companies

PART 1 THE ASCENT OF ACONCAGUA

Mendoza to Puente del Inca

Mendoza

The road to Puente del Inca

Aconcagua routes

The Normal Route

The Vacas Valley Route

Summit day

The long walk out

Other routes

PART 2 ACCLIMATISATION NEAR ACONCAGUA, VALLECITOS AND THE MAIPO VOLCANO

Treks in the Aconcagua area

Puente del Inca and Los Penitentes

A walk to the Statue of Cristo Redentor

Horcones Valley to Plaza Francia

Routes at Vallecitos

Vallecitos Ski and Mountain Lodge

Lomas Blancas (3850m)

Cerro Vallecitos (5770m)

The Maipo Volcano

PART 3 THE TUPUNGATO AREA

Tupungato

The Andes’ Great Mountain

Tupungato routes

Tupungato via Chile and Rio Colorado

Tupungato Provincial Park

Wilderness Trek to Friar’s Col

PART 4 THE SANTIAGO AREA

Santiago

Santiago City

In and around Santiago

Routes near Santiago

El Morado Valley

La Campana National Park

El Plomo (5430m)

Provincia and San Roman

Appendix A Maps, guidebooks and further reading

Appendix B Checklist of essential gear

Appendix C Guides and mountain services

Appendix D Accommodation and local facilities

Appendix E South American cuisine

Appendix F Wine tasting in Argentina and Chile

Appendix G Spanish–English language notes

INDEX OF MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS

Map key

Map of South America

Area maps in this guide

Aconcagua – Normal and Vacas Valley Routes

Routes to the summit

Geological cross section

Panorama – Cordón del Plata

Central Mendoza

Aconcagua – Normal and Vacas Valley Routes

Casa de Piedra

Routes to the summit

Cristo Redentor

Vallecitos

Lost plane flight path

Tupungato

El Plomo

SUMMARY COMPARISON OF NORMAL AND VACAS VALLEY ROUTES

Climbers descending below Plaza Argentina

FOREWORD

Aconcagua is not merely a mountain to me. It is my life. As a mountain guide I have summitted Aconcagua too many times to recall.

Over three decades I have witnessed the number of climbers grow every year. In those three decades there has been more than a twelve-fold increase in numbers, and the increase continues.

We who serve these climbers must adapt to cater for the numbers. A guidebook such as this helps in this regard, and it improves our services to those who climb our mountain.

The degree of written material on Aconcagua when Jim’s first edition was published was sparse. His map was one of the first detailed maps of the area in print. His focus was to produce a practical guide for the ordinary trekker, and he has succeeded.

It is up to us all to keep the mountain clean. Sadly cleanliness was neglected in the past, but the Leave No Trace policies are beginning to show results.

I welcome the new edition of Jim’s book with its various updates and additions. I know it will sell as well as the earlier editions.

Sebastian Tetilla Mendoza

Trekking up the Relinchos Valley

PREFACE

This book is intended primarily for the many thousands who travel each year to climb the highest peak of the Americas – Aconcagua. The main concentration is the mountain itself. It is assumed that the traveller will fly into either Santiago or Mendoza, and remain in this general region before returning. The book is intended as a complete guide, so that it should not be necessary to bring supplementary books.

For every eight people who attempt the peak only two succeed, the majority failing due to altitude sickness or the weather, but also due to lack of preparation. A considerable section of the book is devoted to advice on acclimatisation and good preparations.

For those who prefer to acclimatise on mountains other than the primary goal, choices are offered near Mendoza (Vallecitos 5770m) and near Santiago (El Plomo 5430m). Many will want to get to the Aconcagua Provincial Park and acclimatise there, and treks are detailed near and within the park with this in mind.

The intriguing story of the aircraft flying from Mendoza to Santiago that crashed into a mountain and was swallowed in its glacier to re-emerge 50 years later is documented. A special wilderness trek within Tupungato Provincial Park to the site of the crashed plane is outlined.

The central regions of Chile and Argentina have much to offer besides the mountains of the Andes. For those who are forced to abandon the climb due to altitude or the weather, or who have time to spare, a range of other attractions are documented.

Information is included on the geology, plants and animals, customs and traditions, and even the language itself, to help you get the most out of your visit. The cities of Santiago and Mendoza have had a special relationship since their foundations. Their history, people, customs and architecture are fascinating.

Finally, if the book has succeeded in convincing you to go to Aconcagua you will find useful information in the appendices on places to stay and eat, shop and hire gear.

A NOTE ON THE THIRD EDITION

Over the past seven years there have been a number of changes that will impact on the climber. New topographical maps that are now available are listed. A detailed map, gridded for GPS, of Aconcagua from each basecamp to the summit has been added. A full list of camps with their GPS coordinates is included. Climbing Cerro Bonete (5004m) from Plaza de Mulas has been added. On the Vacas Valley Route trekking companies now tend to camp at Camp Guanacos and Camp Cólera rather than Camp 2 and Camp 3, respectively. Global warming has reduced the penitentes in height and in number. High inflation and the downward slide of the peso continues to affect costs in Argentina, with the exchange rate in 2017 at 16 to the dollar.

The view to the south face of Aconcagua over the lake at Horcones

INTRODUCTION

Suspension bridge over Rio Horcones on the Normal Route

The mountain of Aconcagua is the highest peak in the world outside of the Himalayas and the mountains of eastern Asia. It is the highest of the seven summits after Everest,