Miami & South Beach - The Delaplaine 2019 Long Weekend Guide: Long Weekend Guides
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About this ebook
A complete guide for everything you need to experience a great Long Weekend in Greater Miami and South Beach. (In addition to South Beach, this book includes Miami's up-and-coming Design District and the Biscayne Corridor, as well as the increasingly vibrant Downtown / Brickell area, Little Havana, Coral Gables, Coconut Grove and Key Biscayne). A little much for a Long Weekend, but the information's here if you want to spend a month.
Updated throughout the year, this concise guide is designed to save you time.
"There's an amazing diversity to be experienced in Miami if you get away from South Beach and spend some time on the mainland, and this book was extremely helpful. We found restaurants serving food from Peru, El Salvador, Costa Rica, Brazil, Bolivia—you name it, and cheap." –Jasmine G., Mobile
"I don't care much about Miami. I'm all about South Beach, first and foremost. This is the perfect book, with good restaurant listings and current nightlife updates." –Willie T., Ithaca
"The Delaplaine guide books 'cut to the chase.' You get what you need and don't get what you don't." –Wilma K., Seattle
=LODGINGS, from budget to deluxe
= RESTAURANTS, from the finest the area has to offer ranging down to the cheapest (with the highest quality). More than sufficient listings to make your Long Weekend memorable.
=PRINCIPAL ATTRACTIONS -- don't waste your precious time on the lesser ones. We've done all the work for you.
=SHOPPING – a short round-up of good opportunities
Andrew Delaplaine
Writes both adult and children’s fiction and adventure stories, including the Jack Houston St. Clair political thriller series and the Sherlock Holmes IV mystery series, as well as a series of travel guides. He has directed 7 independent films and shorts, written 5, and produced 5.He also co-created and co-produced "A Wonderful World," a musical based on the life of Louis Armstrong told from the perspective of his four wives.In the past, he owned a famous nightclub on South Beach (The Warsaw Ballroom), published the longest-running paper on South Beach, "The Wire," and produced (for several years) a weekly TV show, "The Live Wire."He lives on South Beach, Miami's Billion Dollar Sandbar.He has no hobbies.
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Miami & South Beach - The Delaplaine 2019 Long Weekend Guide - Andrew Delaplaine
MIAMI &
SOUTH BEACH
The Delaplaine
2019
Long Weekend Guide
Andrew Delaplaine
NO BUSINESS HAS PAID A SINGLE PENNY OR GIVEN ANYTHING TO BE INCLUDED IN THIS BOOK.
A list of the author’s other travel guides, as well as his political thrillers and titles for children, can be found at the end of this book.
Senior Editors - Renee & Sophie Delaplaine
Senior Writer - James Cubby
Copyright © by Gramercy Park Press - All rights reserved.
Please submit corrections, additions or comments to andrewdelaplaine@mac.com
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Chapter 1 – FIRST THINGS FIRST
By Way of Introduction
Transportation & Tips for Getting Around
Specific Information During Your Visit
Visitors’ Centers
––––––––
Chapter 2 - LODGING
SOUTH BEACH
The High Life – South Beach
The Middle Ground – South Beach
Cheaper Alternatives – South Beach
MIDDLE BEACH/NORTH BEACH
DOWNTOWN / BRICKELL
COCONUT GROVE
CORAL GABLES
––––––––
Chapter 3 – RESTAURANTS
INTRODUCTION
Miami-Dade Food Tours
SOUTH BEACH
(Ridiculously Extravagant - Sensible Alternatives - Quality Bargain Spots)
MIDDLE & NORTH BEACHES
(Bal Harbour, Surfside) MIAMI NORTH
DESIGN DISTRICT-MIDTOWN-WYNWOOD-BISCAYNE CORRIDOR
DOWNTOWN-BRICKELL
LITTLE HAVAVA
CORAL GABLES
COCONUT GROVE
KEY BISCAYNE
––––––––
Chapter 4 – NIGHTLIFE
––––––––
SOUTH BEACH
Hotel Lobby Bars
Nightclubs
Jazz
Bars & Lounges
Dives
Gay Bars & Lounges
THE MAINLAND
Nightclubs
Bars & Lounges
Gay Bars & Lounges
––––––––
Chapter 5 - ATTRACTIONS
COUNTY BEACHES
SOUTH BEACH ATTRACTIONS
MAINLAND ATTRACTIONS
Chapter 6 – SHOPPING
BAL HARBOUR
SOUTH BEACH
Ocean Drive - Washington & Collins - Espanola Way – Elsewhere
THE MAINLAND
––––––––
Chapter 7 – SERVICES
Spas
––––––––
Chapter 8 - SOUTH BEACH PARKING GARAGES
MAPS
Map_Miami-DadeCountyMap_SouthBeachMap_Miami_DowntownCHAPTER 1
south_of_fifth_aerial2_ copyBy Way of Introduction – Why Miami? Transportation & Tips for Getting Around - Parking Headaches - If Your Car Is Towed - The Best Cab Company - Specific Information During Your Visit - Visitors’ Centers
BY WAY OF INTRODUCTION
Food, Wine & Travel
I’ve written about food, wine and travel for decades, and while I’ve lived on South Beach since the late-1980s, most of the writing about food and wine had to do with New York or London or Paris, definitely not South Beach. One could write endless travel
pieces about Miami, but the food
and wine
offerings were pretty much limited unless you went to Joe’s Stone Crab for the food and The Forge for the wine.
My, my ... how things have changed.
Miami and South Beach are now year-round destinations. The nightlife industry, the fuel that drives the engine, churns all through the summer, never letting up. Most of the top bars and clubs have licenses that permit them to remain open selling liquor till 5am.
As a butler I once had in London used to say: Raathuur!
Chefs from all over the world have established outposts on South Beach, eager to be part of the scene.
Boutique hotels (the W, the Setai, the Gale, etc.) have flooded in and cranked up the quality of service to the 4- and even 5-Star levels. (Trust me, child, it wasn’t always like this.)
This really is a world-class town. And in this book I will share some things I like about it (and a few I don’t.) This is not a book to tell you how to get from your hometown to Miami International Airport, or from MIA to South Beach. You can figure that out by yourself. (And if you can’t, stay home.)
It’s also not a comprehensive book covering the County. It’s not a phone book or something purporting to cover everything. God forbid. Who’d want to read such a book? No. This, like my other Guides, is my personal take on the scene for visitors, not necessarily residents. Thus, there are no listings for some of the great restaurants I’ve trekked to in South and West Miami. The listings are intentionally brief, so they can be digested fast.
LifeguardStand copy 2WHY MIAMI?
Because it may be the most interesting city in the U.S. There are probably only a handful of cities in America that offer truly distinctive feels,
and by that I mean a unique sensation you get when you’re there that you don’t get anywhere else.
Boston has it, Charleston has it, New York, San Francisco, New Orleans, Chicago, Vegas and a handful of other cities large and small have it. But, to be honest, if you removed my blindfold on a street in Buffalo or Cleveland, I’d have a hard time telling them apart at first glance. (Or even second glance.)
Not so Miami.
And it’s not all sex, drugs and rock ’n roll. (Well ... it’s not, really.) It’s home to some major league cultural institutions, from the Miami City Ballet headed by Edward Villella; the New World Symphony with topper Michael Tilson Thomas, the stupendously successful Art Basel. The off-the-wall collection of tens of thousands of items of decorative and propaganda art assembled by Mickey Wolfson in his Wolfsonian Museum now operated by FIU is worth a trip to Miami all by itself. As is the South Beach Wine & Food Festival pushed to the top of the heap in its category by the relentless energy of Lee Brian Schrager. Schrager and the others have an infectious optimism that has transformed small start-ups into world-class institutions that have made lasting contributions in their fields.
As a young city, these institutions were founded and nurtured by strong-willed individuals. And built from the ground up. If they began with something to prove, they proved it.
But I’m assuming you know why you’re coming here. I’m not here to sell you on the town. If it’s February, it’s probably got a lot more to do with a suntan than with Schumann, and you’re probably more interested in a good mojito than Mozart. And you might not care or even know the difference between a Degas and a Duchamp, a Picasso and a Pissarro. And maybe you are here because of the sex, drugs and rock ’n roll. Whatever.
Let’s face it: how many towns in America let their clubs, bars and dives stay open till 5am selling booze? (And everything else—they don’t call it Sodom by the Sea for nuttin’!)
Miami has an edge. And the edge is what’s most interesting about it, with the hundred different ethnic influences all mixing together to make it so dramatic, Mozart and the ballet notwithstanding.
TRANSPORTATION & TIPS FOR GETTING AROUND
SOUTH BEACH LOCAL BUS
This local shuttle service is the cheapest way to get around South Beach. It stops every 10 or 15 minutes at numerous corners. It’s air-conditioned and only costs 25 cents. (You’ll see signs posted everywhere.) Personally, I use cabs to get around, but if I needed to or had a budget, I’d use this service religiously.
RENTING A CAR? THINK TWICE
We recommend you rent a car only if you’re planning on leaving South Beach a lot. Parking is a never-ending hassle, the City writes tickets relentlessly and ruthlessly and just finding parking spots on the weekends is a major pain in the ass.
Since South Beach is so small, we suggest you leave your car parked securely in a city-owned garage and either walk or take short cab rides. Even if you use the valet service when you go to a fancy hotel for a drink, the valet will cost you between $30 and $40.
The valets at restaurants are often not a real convenience. When it’s busy, it can take quite a bit of time for the valet to retrieve your car. So best advice: cab it everywhere. I live here, and I do.
IF YOUR CAR IS TOWED
And trust me, it will be towed if you park in a tow away zone. Towing is a cottage industry in this town. The problem: you won’t notice the signs until it’s too late. Some businesses watch the often hard-to-see tow away zones very carefully and spy as you park in what will look like an OK place, but is really a tow away zone, and within seconds of you leaving your car, a call is made and you are towed.
The towing companies (there are two of them that have a monopoly) make hundreds of thousands of dollars each year on unsuspecting tourists. The City even gets a kickback (uh, I’m sorry, an administrative fee
) for each car towed. It’s a shame, but it’s true. In other towns, a tow truck can be thought of as providing a service. Here, it’s a predatory act sanctioned by the City to rip you off. So, you’ve been warned.
When your car is towed, it won’t be far away. It will be over on a little street just a few minutes from Lincoln Road on the way to the Venetian Causeway. When you get back to where you left your car, look for the little green sign (that you didn’t notice before) posted on a wall and this sign will tell you which company has your car. Call Tremont Towing, 305-672-2395, or Beach Towing, 305-534-2128, to find out which one has your car and how much it is (it’ll be between $100 and $200, depending on the season). Call Central Cab, 305-532-5555, and go get your car. Stop by an ATM machine. The buggers only take cash, of course.
THE BEST CAB COMPANY
Central Cab – 305-532-5555 – is a company based on South Beach, so their drivers always know the best route to take you anywhere. Everywhere you’re going is only five or six minutes away on the island.
SPECIFIC INFORMATION DURING YOUR VISIT
Check out the listings in the weekly newspaper New Times, which has boxes on every corner, or use your laptop (or increasingly these days, even your cell phone) and go to their web site, www.miaminewtimes.com . The Miami Herald only has a good list in its Friday edition. But they also have comprehensive listings online at www.miamiherald.com .
VISITORS’ CENTERS
MIAMI BEACH VISITORS’ CENTER (MBVC) AT THE CONVENTION CENTER
530 17th St, Miami Beach. 305-672-1270. Daily from 10-4.
www.miamibeachguest.com.
This state-of-the-art facility offers a multilingual staff along with tourist, business and residential amenities. Their literature rack holds over 200 brochures, magazines, newspapers and maps, calendar of events and visitors’ guides full of helpful facts. They offer on-the-spot hotel accommodations, and 20 daily tour excursions. They are the official distributor of Miami’s best attraction pass, the Go Miami Card. They provide the MB chamber of commerce’s newest feature, the In Card, which offers tourists and residents money-saving amenities at local businesses. Hotel reservations: 800-666-4519.
MIAMI BEACH LATIN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE & VISITORS’ CENTER
1620 Drexel Ave / 305-641-1414.
WEB: www.miamibeach.org
Located on the grounds of the 1920 Community Church (worth a stop just to see the church) on Lincoln Road.
MIAMI BEACH GAY & LESBIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
1130 Washington Avenue – First Floor North / 305-673-4440.
WEB: www.gogaymiami.com - In the Old City Hall Building.
CHAPTER 2 – LODGING
AIRBNB.COM
www.airbnb.com
airbnb-austinDefinitely look into the scourge of hoteliers everywhere in the world, this site that alerts frugal travelers to bargain lodgings in people’s homes almost anywhere in the world. You might find a flat a block from Champs Élysées that’s a third of the price of a small room at the Georges V and with a lot more charm.
Voilà!
You will need to do your research, but the good thing is that you pay Airbnb.com directly, not the person hosting you.
They get protections from you (if you’re a crazy person and trash the host’s apartment, you will pay dearly) and you get protection from them (in case they offer something not available in the rental).
All in all, a wonderful meeting of the minds for savvy travelers looking for bargains and people in cities where travelers want to go who want to maximize the revenue potential of that spare room.
I have several friends of mine who do this in Miami, on South Beach where I live, and they are all happy with the entire experience.
HOTEL_color copySOUTH BEACH
(The High Life – The Middle Ground - Cheaper Alternatives)
MIDDLE BEACH / NORTH BEACH
DOWNTOWN / BRICKELL
COCONUT GROVE
KEY BISCAYNE
CORAL GABLES
SOUTH BEACH
(The High Life – The Middle Ground - Cheaper Alternatives)
THE HIGH LIFE
Rates usually run $300 or $400++
I’ll say right off that my favorite hotel is the Raleigh (currently closed for renovations). Sure, sometimes the upholstery will be flawed, or there is a leaky faucet. But for an Art Deco hotel, you can’t beat it. Former Ocean Drive Managing Editor Eric Newill and I have spent many an hour in the little bar off the lobby, and it’s still my favorite small
bar in