Crafting Seitan: Creating Homemade Plant-Based Meats

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Preface

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any people who embrace a plant-based diet do so for ethical reasons and not because they dislike the flavor and texture of meat. But finding satisfying meat alternatives is not always easy for individuals who once enjoyed the flavors and textures associated with meat-based dishes, or for individuals who grew up with meat-based dishes as a traditional part of their family or ethnic heritage.

This cookbook focuses on approximating the appearance, flavors, and textures of meat and the meat products that many of us grew up with: foods that are familiar, that represent our culture or heritage, and that evoke a feeling of nostalgia. Meat analogues provide the satisfaction of eating something we can sink our teeth into—hearty foods that fill us up and stick to our ribs, foods that remind us of holiday traditions, and foods that give rise to memories of cook-outs and camping trips with friends and family in the summertime.

My recipes may resemble meat too realistically for some people’s taste; however, most people thrive on familiarity, and if that familiarity can be satisfied, there is a greater chance of success in maintaining a plant-based diet.

Seitan (seasoned and cooked gluten) is virtually unknown to most nonvegan Westerners, so name and appearance associations are very helpful in tempting people to try these new foods. I truly believe that most vegans are not looking for something entirely new; they’re simply looking for the familiar done differently and compassionately.

You won’t find nutrition information included with the recipes because the cookbook wasn’t written for individuals monitoring calorie and nutrient intake. However, the recipes were created using wholesome ingredients as much as possible, and refined ingredients were included only when absolutely necessary to achieve proper textures.

In order to win people over to plant-based cuisine, my recipes were designed to offer the best flavors and textures. As a chef, I enjoy preparing comforting and satisfying meals. However, I also enjoy the health benefits of a well-balanced plant-based diet, and I encourage breaking the reliance on commercially prepared and heavily processed foods as much as possible.

Detailed instructions are included in the cookbook for preparing many of the components of my recipes with unprocessed, wholesome ingredients. My philosophy is everything in moderation. Even plant-based foods can be unhealthy and fattening if they’re not consumed sensibly.

Regarding food allergies and sensitivities: This cookbook relies on gluten and soy as the foundation for the meat analogue recipes. A few of the incidental recipes may be naturally gluten-free or soy-free, but that was not my intent when creating them. If you have a sensitivity to either gluten or soy, this cookbook isn’t for you; instead, I recommend researching cookbooks and websites that are specifically geared for individuals with food sensitivities.

Creating superior-quality meat analogues at home is a complex art, and there is no doubt that I have many discoveries to make in the future. The recipes will continue to evolve as I continue to learn. I invite you to join me on my journey of discovery.

Chef Skye

Special Ingredients

BEET POWDER is used in some of the meat analogues in this cookbook to provide the red color that would typically be produced by curing meats with nitrites and nitrates. Beet powder is not readily available but can be found in a few specialty food stores or purchased online. If you don’t have beet powder in the pantry, the bright-red liquid from freshly cooked or canned beets (not pickled) can be used, but you’ll have to experiment with producing the correct color intensity.

BROWNING LIQUID is used to create a rich brown color in soups, stews, and gravies. In meat analogues, especially those approximating beef, it is used as a color enhancer to produce a more appetizing appearance. Commercial versions, such as Gravy Master and Kitchen Bouquet, can be found in most grocery stores in the aisle where jarred gravy is located.

LIQUID SMOKE is a water-based seasoning distilled from real wood smoke; it is often used in meat analogues to provide a cold-smoked flavor. Some people are sensitive to smoke flavors or don’t care for them at all, so you can omit it if you prefer. Liquid smoke can be found in most major grocery stores, usually in the aisle with condiments and marinades.

MELLOW WHITE MISO is used as a seasoning in many of the meat analogues in this cookbook. Miso adds umami (a Japanese word used to describe a pleasant savory flavor) to foods. Mellow white miso can be found in natural food stores in the refrigerated section. It has a very long shelf life (about two years), but it must be stored in the refrigerator. Yellow miso can also be used. If white or yellow miso is unavailable, you can replace it with 1 teaspoon nutritional yeast flakes plus 1 teaspoon tamari for every tablespoon of white miso called for in the meat analogue recipes.

MUSHROOM POWDER is used to add umami (a complex savory flavor) as well as color to many of the recipes in this book. It’s an instant way to add an incredible depth of earthy flavor to hearty soups and stews, brown gravies, and sauces. Mushroom powder is available in many specialty and gourmet food markets and through online retailers. Alternatively, it can easily be prepared by grinding dried porcini, portobello, or shiitake mushrooms in a dry blender, spice grinder, or coffee grinder.

POULTRY SEASONING is a blend of aromatic herbs and spices and is commonly used, as the name implies, for seasoning poultry. For our purposes it is used as a flavoring ingredient in Chikun (page 14) and Turky (page 120) and their respective simmering broths. It can also be used to season stuffing or dressing, broths, soups, stews, gravies, and sauces. Poultry seasoning can be easily prepared at home using my own seasoning blend called Aromatica (page 161).

Mise en Place

RED MISO has a deep brick-red color and a stronger flavor than white or yellow miso. It is used as a seasoning and coloring ingredient in Garden Ham (page 115) and Hard Salami (page 157). Red miso is available in natural food stores in the refrigerated section. It has a very long shelf life (about 2 years) but must be stored in the refrigerator. If red miso is unavailable, substitutions are offered in the recipes.

TEXTURED VEGETABLE/SOY PROTEIN GRANULES is a term used to describe a commercially produced soy-based meat analogue that is dried and packaged. Often abbreviated as TVP® and TSP, these products may be used interchangeably. Look for them in natural food stores, some larger supermarkets, and online.

Introduction to Meat Analogues

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eat analogues, or imitations, are generally understood within the vegan context to mean 100 percent plant-based foods that mimic or approximate certain aesthetic qualities (such as the texture, flavor, and appearance) of specific types of meat. This differs from meat substitutes or alternatives. For example, a grilled piece of tofu can serve as a substitute or alternative to meat, but when it’s used as an ingredient and transformed in some way to replicate the texture of chicken or pork, it becomes a meat analogue.

Many modern commercial meat analogues are made from textured wheat protein (derived from gluten) and isolated soy protein, and these products closely approximate the texture of real meat. Plant proteins, in general, can be textured to mimic the properties of real meat (chicken, beef, or pork) using different factory processes, such as spinning, jet cooking, steam treatment, and extrusion cooking. Among these processes, extrusion has been the preferred technology.

However, for many people, including me, commercial meat analogues are often not satisfying, whether due to inaccurate flavor, appearance, and/or texture; the inclusion of too many refined and processed ingredients; or simply the lack of availability. Commercially prepared meat analogues can be expensive, too, and are not an affordable means of maintaining a well-balanced and nutritious plant-based diet on a day-to-day basis.

Some people may think that preparing meat analogues at home is too complex and may feel intimidated by the process, especially when they’re looking at a long list of ingredients, but don’t let this be a concern. While having some plant-based cooking experience is helpful, I have put a lot of forethought into writing the recipes in order for even the novice cook to achieve success.

If you’re a former meat aficionado, remember that we can only approximate the aesthetic qualities of meat with plant-based ingredients and home kitchen equipment. Since we’re working with plant-based ingredients, and not real meat originating from different animals with different diets, there’s only so much we can do to create distinctly separate and unique flavor profiles in the analogues.

In other words, don’t expect the analogues to share the exact nuances of their meat counterparts. If you curb your expectation of creating exact reproductions, then these recipes should more than satisfy your desire for meat-like appearances, textures, and flavors . . . compassionately.

Seitan and Plant-Protein Blends

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eitan (pronounced say-tan), or wheat meat, is an amazingly versatile, protein-rich meat analogue made from vital wheat gluten. The word seitan is of Japanese origin and was coined in 1961 by George Ohsawa, a Japanese advocate of the macrobiotic diet.

Gluten (from the Latin gluten, meaning glue) is a protein complex that appears in foods processed from wheat and related species, including barley and rye. In baking, small amounts of vital wheat gluten are often added to yeast bread recipes to improve the texture and elasticity of the dough.

Wheat gluten is not a complete protein in itself (lysine is the missing amino acid), which means that additional ingredients (such as tofu, tamari, nutritional yeast, or bean flour) must be added to complete its amino acid profile. Lysine can also easily be obtained by consuming other plant-protein sources in the daily diet.

In the commercial production of vital wheat gluten, a mixture of wheat flour and water is kneaded vigorously by machinery until the gluten forms into a mass. The water is removed by a screw press and an additional factory process for drying without denaturing the protein. The gluten is then air cooled and transported to a receiving container. In the final step, the collected gluten is sifted and milled to produce a uniform product.

For preparing meat analogues, high-quality vital wheat gluten is essential in order to develop the proper elasticity in the dough. Be sure it is labeled as having a minimum of 75 percent protein. Bargain and bulk gluten may be a lower quality and could contain a significant amount of starch. Excess starch will yield a bread-like texture in the finished analogue.

Vital wheat gluten can be measured by volume by spooning the gluten into a measuring cup and leveling off the top with a table knife. Alternatively, it can be measured by weight, which will be more accurate.

Unfortunately, some individuals cannot benefit from the nutrition and versatility of seitan due to gluten sensitivity or total intolerance (Celiac disease) and must obtain their protein from vegetables, legumes, and gluten-free grains, such as quinoa, amaranth, and buckwheat (which is actually not a grain but a seed).

Although some of the meat analogues in this cookbook are based entirely on gluten (seitan), others are prepared by combining gluten with tofu or textured vegetable/soy protein. Combining gluten and tofu together to create a meat analogue is not a new concept; however, the proportion of the ingredients and the seasonings and cooking methods are what make these meat analogues unique.

Cooking methods vary depending on the type of plant protein being used and the desired finished texture, flavor, and appearance. Through much experimentation, I was able to determine which methods and ingredients provide the best results for each type of meat analogue.

Preparing meat analogues at home is an art and science unto itself, much like the art and science of baking. Whether the recipe calls for a teaspoon, a tablespoon, or a cup (or a fraction thereof), always use level measurements for precision.

Since volume measurements for dry ingredients can sometimes be unreliable, I have included metric weight measurements for primary recipe ingredients, such as vital wheat gluten and tofu. Volume measurements for water used to prepare the meat analogues include both standard US measurements and metric. And please, no eyeballing volume measurements; that may work for some cooking techniques, but it doesn’t work when preparing meat analogues.

The recipes provided in this cookbook were formulated to produce appetizing results and have been tested many times in my own kitchen. Therefore, experimenting with ratios of dry ingredient to liquid ingredient is not recommended, as this can upset the moisture balance and change the texture significantly enough to negatively affect the finished product.

Adjusting or substituting seasonings to suit your taste is to be expected, but avoid substituting primary functional ingredients or adding large amounts of unspecified extra ingredients, as this can also upset the moisture balance or change flavors and textures significantly enough to negatively affect results. In other words, be creative and have fun, but don’t make too many changes and then wonder why something didn’t turn out properly.

Depending on the