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    Fodor's Essential Vietnam
    Fodor's Essential Vietnam
    Fodor's Essential Vietnam
    Ebook854 pages9 hours

    Fodor's Essential Vietnam

    By Fodor’s Travel Guides

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    About this ebook

    COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE:

    • Fodor’s offers comprehensive, in-depth coverage of all regions of Vietnam and includes additional context about the history of Ho Chi Minh City, Hoi An, and more.
    • A team of local writers provide the insider knowledge and up-to-date coverage for this guide.

    TOURISM TRENDS:

    • Before Covid, travel to Vietnam was up 3.2 percent, according to Vietnam Tourism.
    • Vietnam is widely considered to have implemented a successful response to Covid-19, with effective safety measures and, as of April 2021, only 35 total deaths. Visitors can expect safety to be the country’s top priority.
    • The COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 and 2021 caused a steep drop-off in tourism to many destinations, but surveys have shown an ongoing interest in international travel once it becomes safe again. The number of Americans traveling overseas is expected to increase in mid-2021, once vaccinations have been administered to a wide variety of people.

    FULLY REDESIGNED!

    • New front cover has eye-catching full-bleed images with key selling points on the front
    • New back cover is fully-redesigned
    • “Best of” Lists will visually engage the reader and provide an overview of the entire destination (best things to eat, see, do, drink, as well as what to read and watch before going)
    • Visually focused with more color and images including more full and half-page images throughout and color-coded category icons
    • Other useful features including Great Itineraries, Ultimate Experiences, and History You Can See
    • “Travel Smart” (logistical planning tips section) now at the front of the book and redesigned to be more infographic in feel
    • Stronger Voice and Opinions give all Fodor's guides more personality. Books are more friendly and conversational in tone, going beyond informational to being inspirational

    CURATED AND RELEVANT:

    • Focused coverage on only the best places so travelers can make the most out of their limited time.
    • Carefully vetted recommendations for all types of establishments and price points.

    CONCISE:

    • Shortened reviews presented with brevity and focus.

    Please see additional key selling points in the book main description

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherFodor's Travel
    Release dateJan 25, 2022
    ISBN9781640973916
    Fodor's Essential Vietnam
    Author

    Fodor’s Travel Guides

    For over 80 years, Fodor's Travel has been a trusted resource offering expert travel advice for every stage of a traveler's trip. We hire local writers who know their destinations better than anyone else, allowing us to provide the best travel recommendations for all tastes and budgets in over 7,500 worldwide destinations. Our books make it possible for every trip to be a trip of a lifetime.

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      Book preview

      Fodor's Essential Vietnam - Fodor’s Travel Guides

      Chapter 1: EXPERIENCE VIETNAM

      18 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

      Vietnam offers terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.

      1 Halong Bay

      Thousands of limestone karsts jut skyward from emerald waters in this UNESCO World Heritage–listed seascape. The best way to see it is to hop by boat between islands, including scenic Cat Ba, home to a national park. (Ch. 7)

      2

      The Imperial City, Hue

      The jewel of Hue’s Citadel, this sprawling complex of majestic palaces and evocative temples brings the magnificence of Vietnam’s royal dynasties to life. (Ch. 6)

      3 Markets

      From Hanoi’s bustling Old Quarter to floating outposts in the Mekong Delta, markets reveal colorful slices of local life. Plunge right in, and haggle like you mean it. (Ch. 3–9)

      4

      Ho Chi Minh City

      Rapidly modernizing, HCMC is a jolt of urban energy unlike anywhere else in the country. The frenetic pace (that traffic!) is tempered by peaceful pagodas, parks, and cafés. (Ch. 3)

      5 Street Food

      Devour a delicious bowl of pho on a bustling corner, or follow the fragrant smoke emanating from a sidewalk brazier, where marinated pork sizzles. (Ch. 3–9).

      6 Vietnam War Legacy

      Museums pay tribute, but for a different perspective on the war, look underground— the vast Cu Chi tunnel network is a monument to Vietnamese tenacity. (Ch. 3)

      7 Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park

      Untamed jungle, vast imagination-defying limestone caves, and underground rivers make this spectacular region irresistible to adventurers. (Ch. 6)

      8

      Rice Terraces

      In the Northwest, motorbike or hike along verdant mountains and take in the vibrant, undulating rice terraces outside of areas like Sapa, Mu Cang Chai, and Tu Le. (Ch. 9)

      9

      Hill Stations

      Built by the French as health retreats, hill stations such as Dalat (pictured) make a cool contrast to the steamy lowlands—think misty peaks and rugged scenery. (Ch. 5)

      10 Sapa

      Home to ethnic minorities, this northern mountain town is also the jumping-off point for some compelling sights, including Fansipan, Vietnam’s tallest summit. (Ch. 9)

      11 Golden Bridge, Danang

      Two giant stone hands appear to hold up this nearly 500-foot-long pedestrian bridge, which has become one of the biggest new tourist attractions in Danang’s Ba Na Hills. (Ch. 6)

      12 Mui Ne

      The first major stop north of Ho Chi Minh City is Mui Ne, an international kitesurfing capital. Surfers come from all over to catch waves during the windy season from November to April. (Ch. 5)

      13

      Hoi An

      French colonial architecture, historic traders’ houses, and atmospheric temples are among the charms of Hoi An that are easily discovered on a riverside stroll. (Ch. 6)

      14 Beaches and Islands

      Two thousand miles of tropical coastline ensure that the white sands of a postcard are never far away. Islands like Phu Quoc combine idyllic beaches and diving. (Ch. 4)

      15

      Vietnam’s Coffee Capital, Buon Ma Thuot

      The capital of the Central Highlands is where you’ll find Vietnam’s best java, complete with a Coffee Village and local cafés where the coffee is so strong it’s poured into shot glasses. (Ch. 5)

      16 Hanoi’s Old Quarter

      Vietnam’s capital is the center of culture and cool. In its most ancient section, the Old Quarter, stop into one of the many trendy restaurants or grab a beer on the bia hoi beer corner. (Ch. 8)

      17 The Mekong Delta

      This patchwork of waterways and floating markets, mangrove swamps, and brilliant green rice paddies is best explored by boat, but bike tours provide a fun alternative. (Ch. 4)

      18

      Tet, the Lunar New Year

      Late January to early February is a good time to breathe in the excitement of the lunar new year. During Vietnam’s largest festival, Hanoi’s Old Quarter comes alive. (Ch. 8)

      WHAT’S WHERE

      What’s Where

      dingbat Ho Chi Minh City. Still called Saigon by many, Ho Chi Minh City is a rapidly expanding metropolis, one full of contrasts. The downtown core is quite walkable and most major sites—from the War Remnants Museum to the Reunification Palace—can be visited on foot.

      dingbat The Mekong Delta. Running through the upper delta is the Mekong River, dotted with small fertile islands where fruit grows in abundance. The rest is a patchwork of waterways, mangrove swamps, and brilliant green rice paddies that run into the emerald East Sea.

      dingbat The South-Central Coast and Highlands. Two of Vietnam’s most popular resort towns are here—ocean-side Nha Trang and the cool mountain retreat of Dalat. On the East Sea, Nha Trang has a palm-lined boulevard running the length of its beach. If it’s mountains and lakes you seek, head to temperate Dalat.

      dingbat The Central Coast. The towns of Hue and Hoi An provide a fascinating glimpse of Vietnam’s history. UNESCO site Hoi An is an ancient trading and fishing town where many buildings remain as they were 200 years ago. Hue’s Imperial City and palatial royal tombs are impressive reminders of the country’s regal past. In between Hue and Hoi An is Danang, the region’s major transportation hub.

      dingbat Halong Bay and North-Central Vietnam. A boat on Halong Bay or Bai Tu Long Bay, and kayaking among the islands of the Cat Ba archipelago are just two of the popular outdoor activities in the picturesque North Central region.

      dingbat Hanoi. The capital of Vietnam is also its cultural hub. Despite the chaotic motorbike traffic, this city of majestic lakes, wide tree-lined boulevards, and hauntingly familiar French colonial architecture remains quite charming.

      dingbat The Northwest. Hanoi is the jumping-off point for the rest of northern Vietnam, which is home to more than 50 ethnic minority groups. Many ethnic minorities live in the beautiful highlands of the north, where views of the rice terraces and surrounding fields are truly stunning.

      Vietnam’s Natural Wonders

      HALONG BAY

      Hop in a kayak and paddle around the emerald waters of UNESCO site Halong Bay, exploring caves and ogling the 1,600-some seemingly floating limestone formations crowned with rain forests. It’s busy, yes, but one look at this otherworldly wonder, and you’ll see why. (Ch. 7)

      THE MEKONG DELTA

      A manageable day-trip from Ho Chi Minh City, the agricultural Mekong Delta region covers an area of 15,600 square miles. Explore dozens of cities and towns along the water, peppered with floating markets, rice paddies, and Buddhist temples and pagodas. Start at Can Tho, a town at the heart of the region. (Ch. 4)

      SAND DUNES OF MUI NE

      Located near the palm-lined fishing village of Mui Ne lies an eye-catching system of red and white sand dunes that look like they came straight out of the Sahara Desert. These wonders are formed and shaped by gusts of wind over several years. Sand-sledding and sunset biking are popular activities here. (Ch. 5)

      MARBLE MOUNTAINS

      Twenty minutes’ drive south of Danang are the five Marble Mountains, each of which are said to represent one of the five elements (metal, water, wood, fire, and earth). The climb to the summit of Thuy Son (water) is literally breathtaking; it’s 150 steps (there’s an elevator, too), but you’ll be rewarded with shrines hidden inside caves and grottoes and sweeping views of Danang. (Ch. 6)

      AN BANG AND CUA DAI

      In addition to being a UNESCO site for its historical significance as an international port, Hoi An has two lovely white-sand beaches backed by low-key restaurants and resorts. An Bang is popular for surfing and paddleboarding, while Cua Dai’s calm waters are perfect for swimming and relaxing. (Ch. 6)

      NINH BINH

      Located about 100 kilometers (62 miles) south of Hanoi, Ninh Binh is nicknamed the inland Halong Bay. With towering limestone cliffs that merge into the surrounding rice paddies, this is a much less trafficked alternative to the natural wonder it is often compared to. Here, take boat tours to explore the wildlife-rich Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve or the Trang An Grottoes, encompassing dozens of cross-water caves and valleys. (Ch. 7)

      BAN GIOC WATERFALL

      Set in the northern Cao Bang province, this majestic duo of falls emerges from the Quay Son River in the towering karst limestone hills at the Chinese border. During the flooding season, the waters can rise high enough to join both sections together. Get panoramic views of the falls during a roughly 10-minute ride on a raft. Visitors are welcome year-round, and bringing a poncho and water shoes is recommended. (Ch. 9)

      PHU QUOC ISLAND

      Located off the coast of Cambodia, Phu Quoc is often referred to as the jewel of Vietnam, both for its gem-like shape and for its unmatched tropical beauty. Though what was once an untouched paradise is quickly becoming more developed, there are still stretches of beach with the immaculate white sand and cerulean waters of a postcard. Both boutique villas and big resorts can be found, but it’s also worth venturing into Phu Quoc National Park for hikes, wildlife tours, and camping. (Ch. 4)

      PHONG NA KHE BANG NATIONAL PARK

      With its extensive cave system, karst rock mountains, and rivers, this national park in Central Vietnam offers some of the best outdoor activities in the country amid untamed jungle. The park is home to the gargantuan Son Doong Cave—only discovered in 2009 and believed to be the world’s largest cave passage—as well as rich wildlife like tigers and elephants. Try your hand at ziplining, kayaking the rapids, or boating into a river cave. (Ch. 6)

      SAPA’S RICE TERRACES

      The people of Sapa built these stunning terraced rice fields to adapt to the mountainous northern highlands, sometimes known as the Tonkinese Alps. Once a French hill station, the area today is world-renowned as a hiking destination. (Ch. 9)

      Vietnam’s Temples and Pagodas

      CAO DAI HOLY SEE

      Located in the city of Tay Ninh roughly 80 km (50 miles) from Ho Chi Minh City, the Cao Dai Holy See is the headquarters of the Cao Dai religion, attracting thousands of worshippers clad in all white to partake in a daily ceremony of song and prayer. (Ch. 3)

      PERFUME PAGODA

      Located within an ancient complex of Buddhist temples and shrines carved into the limestone of the Huong Tich Mountains is the Perfume Pagoda (also known as the Inner Temple). Set inside the Huong Tich cave, it features statues of the Buddha and Bodhisattva Quan Am. (Ch. 8)

      GIAC LAM PAGODA

      Dating back to 1744, the Giac Lam Pagoda is one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Ho Chi Minh City, housing many of Vietnam’s most treasured religious artifacts. Located in District 11, the pagoda remains a tranquil city escape for Buddhist worshippers today and has lovely views. (Ch. 3)

      THIEN MU PAGODA

      Also called the Pagoda of the Celestial Lady in honor of the local deity, this seven-story octagonal pagoda is a key religious and architectural symbol for the legendary imperial capital of Hue in Central Vietnam. Built in 1601 atop a forested hill on the northern bank of the Perfume River, the Thien Mu Pagoda features three statues representing Buddhas of past, present, and future. Arrive in the morning to enjoy the peaceful view before tourist groups arrive. (Ch. 6)

      TEMPLE OF LITERATURE

      Built in 1070 as a university, the Temple of Literature (Van Mieu) is a memorial to education and scholarly pursuits and a key example of classic Vietnamese architecture. Once site of the royal exams, the temple is now one of Hanoi’s most popular attractions. The complex includes a maze of courtyards and trails connecting sites like the Lake of Literature, Well of Heavenly Clarity, and 116 carved stone turtles representing wisdom and longevity. There are also altars for worship of Confucius and numerous other philosophers. (Ch. 8)

      LINH UNG TEMPLE

      Set in Vietnam’s third-largest city, the beach town of Danang, this gorgeous pagoda is famed for its towering Lady Buddha Statue, the tallest in Vietnam. The temple is located on Danang’s scenic Son Tra Peninsula, with views of both mountains and sea. (Ch. 6)

      BAI DINH PAGODA

      Covering an area of some 539 hectares, the Bai Dinh Pagoda actually refers to a sprawling mountain Buddhist complex that includes an ancient pagoda, a newer pagoda built in 2003, plus parking, lakes, and gardens. Located in Ninh Binh province near Hanoi, the complex includes several attractions including a three-story bell tower, Bodhisattva temple, and a giant circular water well. Climb 300 steps to reach breathtaking views of cliffs, mountains, and caves. (Ch. 7)

      VAN THUY TU TEMPLE

      This mustard-colored temple is Vietnam’s largest and oldest temple built in honor of Ca Ong, or the Lord Whale. Whale worship is distinct to Vietnamese culture, in which fishing and seafaring local people see the animals as guardians. Built in 1762 in the coastal southeast city of Phan Thiet, the temple houses the skeletons of some 500 whales amassed by local fishermen over the span of decades. The temple’s key relic is a 20-meter-long whale skeleton, which is the largest in Vietnam. (Ch. 5)

      HIEN LAM PAVILION

      Also referred to as the Pavilion of the Glorious Coming, this temple is one of the most well-preserved buildings in the ancient imperial city of Hue. The pavilion pays tribute to the legacy of the Nguyen Dynasty, its emperors, and honorable mandarins. (Ch. 6)

      TRAN QUOC PAGODA

      Hanoi’s oldest Buddhist pagoda, constructed in the sixth century, is set on a tiny island linked by bridges to Truc Bach Lake and West Lake. The ancient pagoda has a leafy garden and is a popular spot for watching the sunset. (Ch. 8)

      What to Eat and Drink in Vietnam

      MI QUANG

      Central Vietnam’s Quang Nam province, including the cities of Hoi An and Danang, is home to some of Vietnam’s most prized noodle soups. Mi Quang is a savory half-soup, half-salad noodle dish with pork, prawn, quail eggs, and rice cracker shards.

      COM TAM

      Throughout Vietnam, rice restaurants offer cheap home-cooked meals. The signature com tam dish is barbecued pork marinated in fish sauce, garlic, and palm sugar, and a slice of Vietnamese quiche—an egg pie containing noodles, wood ear mushrooms, and ground pork.

      BANH MI

      A legacy of some 150 years of French occupation, banh mi refers both to the French baguette, as well as the signature Vietnamese style of meat sandwich made with the bread. The most popular variety is banh mi thit, a crisp-on-the-outside and fluffy-on-the-inside baguette with pâté, slices of sausage, cucumber, pickled carrot, chili, and more.

      CA PHE SUA

      Another legacy of French colonialism, coffee today is an integral part of Vietnamese daily life. Vietnam is the world’s second largest producer of coffee, which grows in the highlands of Central Vietnam between cities like Dalat and Buon Ma Thuot. In Vietnam, ca phe sua is typically brewed through a stainless steel phin filter directly into a glass or mug with condensed milk.

      RICE WINE

      Rice wines have been distilled in Vietnam for centuries. There are many forms of rice wine, including the central Vietnamese ruou can, a sticky rice wine prepared in 6-liter vats and consumed communally through giant straws, and snake wine, in which whole snakes are infused in rice wine or grain alcohol, seen most often in tourist shops.

      CHAO

      Rice porridge is a breakfast staple and is often prepared with ginger as a comfort for simple ailments. Similar to Chinese congee and other Asian rice porridge dishes, chao can be prepared with ca (fish), tom (shrimp), ech (frog), heo (pork), bo (beef), hai san (seafood), or chay (vegetarian).

      STICKY RICE

      Sticky rice is a sweet anytime-of-day snack, although in Ho Chi Minh City it’s most common to see food vendors pushing carts of colorful sticky rice—purple, black, and green—after dark. Rice is also used to make a range of delicious steamed crepes and savory cakes.

      PHO

      Often considered the unofficial national dish of Vietnam, pho (pronounced fuh) is a tangle of silky rice noodles and beef (commonly served raw and sliced thin) or chicken in a fragrant broth with an instantly recognizable aroma of roasted onion, ginger, star anise, cinnamon, and cloves. Regional differences are worth noting: in Hanoi, the broth is clear and minimally garnished; whereas in southern Vietnam, pho is distinguished by bolder flavors and ample use of fresh herbs.

      BUN CHA

      Made widely known to westerners after a historic meal between President Obama and Anthony Bourdain, this beloved savory Hanoian specialty comes with rice noodles (bun), charcoal-grilled pork patties (cha), pork belly, and a plate of fresh herbs. Combine these ingredients at will, dunking meat and noodles into the sweet-sour fish sauce-based dipping broth.

      What to Buy in Vietnam

      FLOATING MARKET FARE

      When visiting a floating market, buying fresh fruit—and perhaps even seafood—is a must. The Mekong Delta city of Can Tho is a popular hub due to its proximity to numerous floating river markets including Nga Bay and Cai Rang markets.

      POTTERY

      Vietnam boasts a number of dedicated pottery villages, some of which have been perfecting their craft for hundreds of years. Ceramic aficionados will enjoy a visit to the Bat Trang Pottery Village, near Hanoi, which is known for its white clay goods.

      CUSTOM TAILORED CLOTHING

      Hundreds of small tailor shops line the streets in Hoi An. Here, made-to-measure clothing can be turned around in just 48 hours, but make sure to leave ample time for tailors to work their magic. The best way to get exactly what you want is to bring something to be copied.

      VIETNAMESE SILK

      Relatively affordable, Vietnamese silk is often spun using manual looms. Destinations for silk include Hanoi’s Silk Street and Hoi An, a city known for its tailoring as much as its history.

      AO DAI

      The traditional costume of Vietnam is a long two-piece tunic dress paired with loose silk trousers and a headband. Many stores in Ho Chi Minh City sell ao dai and can also custom tailor one.

      FINE ART

      The contemporary art scene in urban Vietnam is booming in the galleries of Hanoi and Saigon. In Hanoi’s Old Quarter you’ll find shops with all manner of traditional items, including paintings.

      SAPA HANDICRAFTS

      Sapa, in northern Vietnam, is home to many of Vietnam’s highland-dwelling ethnic minority tribes. The market in town is the place to go for the beautifully embroidered fabrics, indigo-dyed clothes, and silver jewelry of these groups.

      LACQUERWARE

      Believed to have been introduced by the Chinese in the first century AD, this art form features the resin of the lacquer tree, which is planted largely in Phu Tho in Northern Vietnam. Depicting both mythical and daily scenes, lacquered art can be found adorning everything from furniture to dishes, chopsticks, jewelry boxes, and vases.

      LANTERNS

      Hoi An’s signature silk lanterns are particularly important to Vietnamese culture, signifying good fortune. Head to the picturesque lantern market to choose from myriad colors and patterns, each with its own meaning, and shapes including spherical and balloon-shaped.

      CONTEMPORARY CLOTHING

      The fashion scene in Ho Chi Minh City is growing rapidly, with new flagship showrooms for notable local designers like Moi Dien and Cong Tri. A local streetwear scene has also emerged, with young hometown labels sold at concept stores like The New Playground in Hanoi and Saigon. The centrally located Vincom Center Shopping Mall offers big-name luxury retailers, while Ben Thanh Market offers affordable tourist T-shirts and trinkets.

      Vietnam Today

      Vietnam is a place of lush, natural beauty, from the low-lying deltas of the south to the mountainous central highlands to the staggered layers of the rice terraces in the north. Over a thousand miles long and only 31 miles wide at its narrowest, with a total area slightly larger than New Mexico, Vietnam is home to an estimated 98 million people, with the majority born after 1975. Visitors will discover a vibrant culture: one that includes an elegantly crumbling European heritage and a delicious street-food scene. This is certainly the time to visit: Vietnam is a country obsessed with the future, rushing headlong toward a dream of first-world prosperity with an irrepressible energy. Despite centuries of war and poverty, the Vietnamese people have an obvious enjoyment of life. As in many places the locals add so much: their warm smiles, curiosity, and humor are what make a visit here so unforgettable.

      GOVERNMENT

      Since 1975, the Socialist Republic of Vietnam has been a one-party state, with the only legal political party being the Communist Party of Vietnam. Independent candidates are eligible to run for office but most are not permitted on the ballot.

      In Vietnam, the prime minister is the head of government, responsible to the 500-seat national assembly, while the president is the head of state. Both are part of a 16-member Politburo, the nation’s highest decision-making body, with the power to implement policy approved by the Communist Party’s National Congress and parliament. The machinations of power are murky, and little reported in Vietnam, where the government or Communist Party directly or indirectly owns most of the media. The government faces many challenges, including the widening gap between rich and poor, territorial disputes with its large and populous neighbor, China, and the pollution and environmental degradation that accompany modernization.

      Human rights groups regularly chastise Vietnam for its one-party policy, and the zeal with which it imprisons citizens who make public comments about a multiparty state or call for political change. Visitors are highly unlikely to see any of this oppressive behavior, but don’t expect any local tour guides to discuss politics in any depth, or even to speak on the topic at all. There is little prospect of political change in the near future. The stability of Vietnam’s government is, in fact, one of the main attractions for foreign investors.

      ECONOMY

      Vietnam has one of the world’s fastest growing economies. Development is most visible in the major cities, where soaring glass-and-chrome skyscrapers, new roads, bridges, and tunnels continue to be built alongside a plethora of new upmarket restaurants and five-star hotels. The other side of Vietnam’s economic story is told outside the cities, where 70% of the population is still engaged in agriculture, often small-scale enterprises that provide only a subsistence living.

      The vast economic divide continues to increase. The rise of urban overcrowding has led to rapidly growing shanty towns, particularly in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, though residents’ access to basic services is better than in many Asian cities. Meanwhile, private jets and high-end vehicles are now must-have accessories among the country’s elite, and Rolls-Royce and Prada are the latest luxury brands to establish a presence in Hanoi.

      Such displays of wealth are in stark contrast to the situation post-1975, when the nation was plunged into poverty after the imposition of a Soviet-style closed market economy. Realizing things weren’t working, the government introduced doi moi (renovation) economic reforms in 1986, which included opening up a socialist market economy at home, allowing free trade, and renewing diplomatic relations to encourage foreign investment.

      THE LEGACY OF WAR

      Vietnam has been fighting off foreign forces for centuries, including China, France, and the United States. It was once part of Imperial China, before reverting to self-rule in the mid-1400s. France colonized Vietnam in the mid-1800s until the fall of France in World War II. In 1954 the Geneva Accord dictated the country be divided into the Communist North Vietnam and non-Communist South Vietnam. The governments of the North and South considered themselves rulers of the entire country, and tensions escalated until the United States joined what became all-out conflict, known as the Vietnam War outside of the country, and the American War within.

      Despite the ongoing visible effects of the American use of Agent Orange, including third-generation birth defects and environmental devastation, the Vietnamese have moved on from the atrocities of the period of war that stretched from 1955 to 1975. (A Vietnamese victims’ rights group failed to have their case heard in the U.S. Supreme Court in 2009, though efforts for compensation continue.) It comes as a surprise to some travelers that little resentment toward Americans remains among the general Vietnamese population, who are more interested in the future than the past. It is also the case that the government has encouraged this attitude. And with about 40% of the population aged under 25, the end of the Vietnam war in 1975 is practically ancient history. Vietnam’s young people are more concerned with becoming rich (and sometimes famous), in order to buy the latest iPhones, cars, and fancy new apartments.

      Some visitors to Vietnam are offended by the various Vietnamese museums and memorials dedicated to the last war, but it’s important to remember that these government-owned facilities are designed to reinforce the government’s own position domestically. The use of propaganda is still very much in evidence, for example in the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City, where graphic images are displayed alongside explanatory text that presents the North Vietnamese side.

      FAMILY

      Vietnamese life still revolves around the family, even in the rapidly developing big cities. Modern Vietnamese society, like 1950s America, asks young people to study hard, complete a university degree, and then, as soon as possible, start a family. Children are often overindulged, and older people are shown respect in a way that’s not seen as often in Western society today.

      A two-child policy exists in Vietnam. Enforcement is not as harsh as in China, but employees of state-owned enterprises who have a third or subsequent child are fined for their fertility, usually in the form of losing monthly bonuses and being denied promotions. Children are considered a blessing, sons more so than daughters because sons can carry on the family name through their children. (Vietnamese wives don’t assume their husband’s family name.) The eldest son is responsible for caring for his parents later in life, although often all the children contribute financially to the care of their parents. Most people still follow the tradition of expecting a new bride to move into her husband’s family home after marriage, even nowadays with an estimated 70% of women of working age in paid employment.

      If you’re traveling with kids, expect them to be fussed over and touched (cheek pinches are common). If you’re of grandparenting age, expect to be shown solicitous and attentive respect, and to be applauded for being healthy and wealthy enough to travel. However, if you are a childless or single woman of a certain age, you may be asked about your bad luck.

      The importance of family is illustrated by the mass migration of the population at Tet, the lunar new year. Everyone returns home for this important once-a-year national vacation, leaving the cities more or less deserted and transport systems gridlocked. It’s also evident from the practice of ancestor worship, which is still widespread regardless of religion.

      TRAFFIC GRIDLOCK

      First-time visitors to Vietnam, who usually arrive in densely populated Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, are justifiably terrified by the traffic: the sheer volume of motorbikes and the seeming lack of any road rules whatsoever inevitably creates a first impression of utter chaos. This is only reinforced upon observing trucks and buses hurtling along poorly maintained highways, with their drivers leaning heavily on their horns to clear a path through the throngs of motorbikes.

      As a matter of fact, road rules do exist, though not all make sense, such as the different speed limits imposed for motorbikes, and cars and trucks. The chaos in the cities is tempered by the fact that all this traffic moves quite slowly, only partially because of the number of vehicles sharing the roads. After a time, you will realize that the relentless tooting is actually more of a friendly coming through or hey, I’m right here rather than an outburst of aggression.

      Motorcycle helmets became compulsory in Vietnam in 2008, but the death toll remains high, with an estimated 30 to 40 people dying on the roads every day in car and motorcycle accidents. Although traffic police, with their beige uniforms, are a common sight in the cities, motorcyclists still flout the rules quite openly, speeding, driving the wrong way, and wobbling about in obviously drunken states. In the cities, the traffic is best navigated by taxis, which edge their way slowly through the mess with minimal damage to the occupants. The traffic is also a compelling reason to schedule some time outside of the big cities (especially Hanoi) in order to discover the other, slower pace of Vietnam.

      History You Can See

      Ancient Vietnam and Chinese Domination

      The origins of the earliest settlers in Vietnam are mostly lost in the mists of time. The first of the Hung Kings, Hung Vuong, came to power in 2879 BC, in the northern Red River Delta, naming his kingdom Van Lang. According to legend, Hung Vuong was the eldest son of an immortal mountain fairy called Au Co, who married a dragon lord with whom she had 100 children, the Bach Viet, also known as the ancestors of the Vietnamese people. The first Hung King is credited with teaching his subjects how to grow rice. The reign of all 18 Hung Kings is known as the Hong Bang period, which lasted for about 2,500 years until 258 BC. Around this time, the Vietnam of today was divided into three states: Van Lang in the north, the Kingdom of Champa in the center, and the Indian-influenced Cambodian Kingdom of Funan in the south. For several centuries, these states waged ongoing battles for land and power. The first of four periods of Chinese domination of northern Vietnam began in 111 BC with the Han–Nanyue War and continued for 10 centuries, introducing the Chinese language, Confucianism, and advanced agricultural techniques to the area. During Chinese domination, Vietnam was known as Annam, then Tinh Hai. Chinese rule ended in AD 938 when provincial governor Ngo Quyen took control of the military and fended off the Chinese in the Battle of Bach Dang River. The mandarin system remained in place for 1,000 years after Vietnam became a sovereign nation.

      WHAT TO SEE

      The Chinese influence on Vietnam can be seen in every temple and pagoda, and in every home, where the practice of ancestor worship continues to be observed. It’s also evident in art, especially the techniques used to produce ceramics, as well as the visual references to themes of Confucianism, Mahayana Buddhism, and Taoism. Few actual relics remain, as sovereign Vietnam—past and present—does not like to be reminded of its domination by its populous northern neighbor. Instead, every city and town names its streets after the national heroes who helped repel the Chinese, Hai Ba Trung (the two sisters Trung), and Thi Sach (one of the Trung sister’s husbands). You’ll see these names frequently as you travel around Vietnam. Alexandre de Rhodes and Han Thuyen are also honored with street names in Ho Chi Minh City.

      The Lost Kingdom of Champa

      Little is known of the Cham, a powerful maritime empire that ruled the central and southern lowlands of Vietnam for more than 900 years, leaving behind exquisite temple complexes and fanciful Hindu sculptures. Like the Funan Kingdom, the Kingdom of Champa was based on strong trade links with India. The Cham culture adopted Indianized art forms and architectural styles as well as written Sanskrit. From AD 2nd to the 13th century, Amaravati, now known as Quang Nam province in central Vietnam, was the capital of the Kingdom of Champa, with the city of Lam Ap Pho the kingdom’s center for sea trade. Lam Ap Pho, later called Faifo, and now Hoi An, was a key stop on the Spice Route between the Persian Gulf and China.

      WHAT TO SEE

      About 50 km (31 miles) from the former Cham port of Hoi An is the most famous of all the Cham temple complexes in Vietnam, My Son, which predates Angkor Wat in Cambodia. It was heavily damaged by carpet bombing during the Vietnam War. The Po Nagar Cham Towers in Nha Trang, the Poshanu Towers in Phan Thiet, and the Thap Doi Cham Towers in Quy Nhon are also relics of the mysterious kingdom. Locals still pay their respects at the old shrines, and the sites themselves are shown the same respect as temples and pagodas (when visiting, adults should have their knees and shoulders covered). The Danang Museum of Cham Sculpture houses the world’s largest collection of Cham artifacts and sculptures, including many representations of the Hindu linga and yoni (male and female sex organs).

      Dynastic Vietnam

      Ngo Quyen’s military defeat of the Chinese in AD 938 marked the start of the short-lived Ngo Dynasty. The Ngo Dynasty was followed by the Dinh Dynasty, during which time the country was renamed Dai Co Viet, literally Great Viet Land. Plotting and politicking was rife during these years, as was the ever-present threat of foreign invasion, leading to the rise and fall of many ruling families, now known as the Early Le, Ly, Tran, Ho, Le, and Nguyen dynasties. The emperors of these dynasties ruled with absolute power, in charge of the judicial system and the armed forces. During this time, the rulers were expanding south, battling the Kingdom of Champa in what is now central Vietnam and the Angkor Empire of modern-day Cambodia, as well as fending off incursions from the north, including several Mongol attacks ordered by Kublai Khan. In 1802 Emperor Gia Long united the country for the first time, named the new nation Viet Nam (Southern Viet), and designated Hue the capital. This heralded the beginning of the 143-year Nguyen Dynasty, which ended in 1947 when Emperor Tu Duc ceded administration of the country to the French. This association with the French means Vietnam’s current leaders don’t favorably regard the Nguyen Dynasty, even though the founder of the dynasty, Emperor Gia Long (1762–1820), is credited with being the first to unify Vietnam’s north and south.

      WHAT TO SEE

      The Imperial capital was moved to Thang Long (Ascending Dragon), now known as Hanoi, in the 11th century during the Ly Dynasty. The Imperial Citadel of Thang Long remained the capital of Vietnam for eight centuries, and the site was opened to the public to mark Hanoi’s 1,000th anniversary. Hanoi’s Temple of Literature, built by Ly Thanh Tong, the third emperor of the Ly Dynasty, remains in excellent condition, and is one of the city’s most popular sights. Ngoc Son Temple in the middle of Hanoi’s Hoan Kiem Lake is dedicated to Tran Hung Dao, the Supreme Commander of Vietnam during the Tran Dynasty, who helped repel the Mongol hordes in the 13th century. The former capital of Hue is now home to the country’s highest concentration of Imperial architecture, including the UNESCO-listed Citadel and the royal tombs of the Nguyen Dynasty emperors Minh Mang, Gia Long, and Tu Duc.

      French Indochina

      The French had a presence in Vietnam from the early 17th century, when Jesuit missionaries arrived, quickly graduating from saving souls to involving themselves in diplomacy and politics. The ruling Nguyen Dynasty attempted to expel the Catholics, and in response, France launched a military attack on Danang in 1847. Saigon was seized two years later and by 1883 Emperor Tu Duc had signed a treaty making north and central Vietnam a French protectorate. The French colonial era was to last until 1954. During this time the French divided Vietnam into three administrative areas—Tonkin, Annam, and Cochin-China—and set about ambitiously building roads, bridges, public buildings, and the Hanoi to Saigon railway, which is still used today. In 1941, the man born Nguyen Sinh Cung but better known by his assumed name of Ho Chi Minh, returned to Vietnam after decades abroad to lead the anti-French independence movement, the Viet Minh. After the fall of France in 1940 during World War II, Vietnam was provisionally administered by the Vichy Government and later occupied briefly by Japan. With Japan’s surrender, Ho Chi Minh persuaded Emperor Bao Dai to abdicate and Ho Chi Minh declared himself leader of the Independent Republic of Vietnam. However, within weeks French rule was restored. The resistance that followed World War II, with Communist China supporting the Viet Minh, is known as the First Indochina War, which lasted until 1954. The Vietnamese defeated the French at Dien Bien Phu, marking the end of the French-Indochina War. Agreement was reached among France, Britain, the United States, and the Soviet Union as part of the Geneva Accords to cease hostilities in Indochina and to divide Vietnam temporarily at the 17th parallel. Hundreds of thousands of refugees, mostly Vietnamese Catholics worried that religious tolerance will not be practiced in the Viet Minh–controlled north, fled to the south with U.S. Navy assistance.

      WHAT TO SEE

      Colonial architecture can be found throughout Vietnam, some dilapidated and decrepit, some beautifully maintained. In Hanoi’s French Quarter, crumbling colonial facades line the streets between landmark colonial buildings, such as the Metropole and the Opera House. Spanning the Red River is the cantilever Long Bien Bridge, designed by Gustave Eiffel of Eiffel Tower fame. In Ho Chi Minh City, the former Hotel de Ville, the Central Post Office—another masterpiece by the prolific Eiffel—and the Opera House are the most prominent public buildings from the colonial era. The existence of highland towns such as Dalat, with its large French villas, and Sapa are also credited to the former French rulers, who set up hill stations there to escape the oppressive heat of the lowlands.

      War with the Americans

      During the Cold War, the long-running military and political standoff between the United States and the USSR, much of the foreign policy of the United States was directed by the domino theory. This was the belief that allowing one country to fall to Communism would cause a stain of red to flow across the world’s geopolitical maps, and Asia would be lost to Russian domination. Despite the forces on the ground in Vietnam since 1950, in the interest of containment, American involvement in the North-South war through 1964 mainly involved financially assisting the French and then the South Vietnamese government in their conflict with Communist North Vietnam. By December 1965, however, there were more than 184,000 U.S. troops in Vietnam, and by 1967 there were almost half a million. Extensive carpet bombing did little to impede the growth and advance of the Communist Vietcong army, and both sides continued to suffer heavy casualties over the next four years. In the West, the public began questioning U.S. involvement in the war—and the government’s claim it was winning—in the wake of the 1968 Tet Offensive, when the Vietcong launched coordinated surprise attacks against U.S. troops in more than 1,000 cities and towns throughout Vietnam. Public support for the war in the United States declined further when news broke of the brutal My Lai Massacre, a mass killing of unarmed Vietnamese civilians by American troops the same year (1968). After much negotiation, the Paris Peace Accords were signed, and on January 27, 1973, a ceasefire was called and the United States withdrew, leaving a skeleton ground crew to advise the South Vietnamese Army. On April 30, 1975, Vietnam was liberated when North Vietnamese tanks crashed through the Independence Palace in Saigon, marking the end of the war.

      WHAT TO SEE

      The tanks that remain guarding the front of the Reunification Palace in Ho Chi Minh City are perhaps the starkest reminder of the victory of the north over the south. Evidence of the brutalities of the last war abound at the various museums throughout the country, including Ho Chi Minh City’s grueling War Remnants Museum, Hanoi’s Military History Museum, the Ho Chi Minh Museum, and the Son My Memorial, 8 km (5 miles) from Quang Ngai city. You can also explore the Cu Chi Tunnels, the extensive network of underground tunnels used by the Vietcong just outside Ho Chi Minh City, as well as the horrific prisons used by the South Vietnamese government, including the infamous tiger cages, on Con Dao Islands.

      REUNIFICATION AND AFTERWARD

      A decade of brutal Communist rule followed the liberation of South Vietnam in 1975, with harsh reprisals for those linked to the southern government and military. The reprisals, the reeducation camps, and the grinding poverty of this period led to a mass exodus from South Vietnam, with an estimated 2 million people leaving the country. The so-called boat people who survived their sea journey, and the other Vietnamese refugees, settled in America, Australia, Canada, the United Kingdom, Germany, and France. Many used their culinary skills to support themselves with family-run restaurants. The tense relationship between the United States and Vietnam eased over the years, especially after Vietnam began moving toward a more open economy. In 1994 the United States lifted the trade embargo on Vietnam and a year later the two countries normalized relations. Vietnam’s ascension to the World Trade Organization in 2006 further opened the doors to foreign investment and contributed to the resurgence of Vietnam’s economy. Vietnam’s move toward a market economy and the resumption of commercial flights between the two countries in 2004 also seemed to be the catalyst for many overseas Vietnamese, known as Viet Kieu, to return to Vietnam.

      WHAT TO SEE

      The gleaming skyscrapers in Hanoi, Danang, and Ho Chi Minh City, including the 68-story Bitexco Financial Tower, signify Vietnam’s heady postwar rush toward capitalism. One of the most noticeable signs of international investment can be seen in the food and retail landscape, with foreign brands increasingly visible.

      People of Vietnam

      Visit any of the hill tribes and the variety of different ethnicities and cultures that make up Vietnam becomes readily apparent. The country has 54 ethnic groups recognized by the government, from the majority Kinh—who make up more than 85% of the population—to the tiny Brau group, who are believed to number fewer than 300.

      The Kinh tend to live in urban areas and, socioeconomically, are at the top. The ethnic minority groups, however—especially the smallest—face a number of problems. These include lack of access to adequate education, health care, and public services. Without education, these groups—in particular those living in remote, mountainous regions with agrarian economies—are unable to acquire knowledge and increase production. Though there are government programs aimed at improving the lives of Vietnam’s rural minorities, they are not very effective, and many live below the poverty line. For some ethnic minority groups, such as those in the hill tribes around Sapa, tourism has provided a major boon to the economy.

      Many travelers in Vietnam make time for a motorbike trip into the mountains to visit local villages and get a glimpse of ethnic life. If you can’t make it to the hill-tribe villages, the next best thing is a visit to Vietnam Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi. The fantastic exhibits showcase more than 15,000 artifacts, including photographs and objects including costumes, musical instruments, weapons, and hunting implements. On the museum’s grounds are reconstructed homes from a dozen ethnic groups that visitors are welcome to explore. What follows is an overview of some of the groups you may see on your travels.

      Kinh (Population: about 85,000,000) The Kinh originated from what is now southern China and northern Vietnam, and the Kinh living over the border in China are known as the Gin. The group originally settled in the deltas and coastal regions, both working in agriculture and eventually moving into industry. Today the highest concentrations of Kinh are in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. You’re unlikely to be able to recognize any Kinh by their outfits as they live in urban centers and dress just as in the West. Vietnam’s majority ethnic group speaks standard Vietnamese.

      Tay (Population: about 1,900,000) The country’s second largest ethnic group makes up just 2% of the population. The Tay tend to live in Quang Ninh province, home to Halong Bay, and in Sapa, in Lao Cai province. Traditionally, the Tay society was an agrarian one, with most Tay living in fertile areas and growing rice and corn. Today, many Tay have intermarried and live in ethnically mixed villages or in towns. The group speaks Tay, a Tai language that includes standard Thai and Laotian. Traditional clothing is made from homegrown cotton, dyed with indigo, and usually without embroidery or embellishments. Women wear skirts or trousers.

      Muong (Population: about 1,400,000) It’s believed that the Muong are the most closely related to the ethnic Vietnamese (Kinh). They reside in northern Vietnam’s mountainous regions, in Hoa Binh and Thanh Hoa provinces. Far from the Chinese border and high in the mountains, the Muong were not influenced by the Chinese as other ethnic minority groups were. The economy is agrarian and the Muong attend markets and trade goods. The group speaks Muong, closely related to Vietnamese. Women generally wear a plain white fabric headscarf, short blouses, usually with small side slits, ankle-length skirts with an embroidered floral border, and silver key chains hanging from the waist.

      Khmer Krom (Population: 1,200,000) These are the indigenous Khmer (present day Cambodians) who live along the southern Mekong Delta. The group takes its name from the Khmer word krom, which means below, implying south of Cambodia. The area where the Khmer Krom live is not technically a disputed territory—it’s considered Vietnam—but there are associations of exiled Khmer Krom who want self-determination for the Khmer Krom in Vietnam. The clothing worn in public by most Khmer Krom is unlikely to give them away; women are usually in a simple blouse and sampot (a long rectangular cloth worn as a skirt) and men wear shirts tucked into sarongs. Some Khmer Krom dress in Western clothing. Many practice Theravada Buddhism. They speak Vietnamese and Khmer, which differ from neighboring languages in that they aren’t tonal.

      Hmong (Population: about 1,100,000) The Hmong group, also known as the Mong, live in the northern mountainous regions of Thailand, Vietnam, and Laos, and over the border in southern China, where the government has lumped them into the larger Miao ethnic group. Within Vietnam, the Hmong have several subgroups, including the Red, White, Flower, Striped, Green, and Black Hmong. The Hmong economy was traditionally agrarian, but an influx of tourists into places like Sapa has helped jumpstart tourism. The Hmong wear and produce beautiful textiles with intricate embroidery. In their colorful embroidered skirts and jackets, the Flower Hmong women are the most recognizable. Other Hmong generally wear black skirts or trousers, a black jacket with colorful trim, and sometimes a peaked black turban. Depending on the group, the outfit is accessorized with an embroidered belt or waistband. At Sapa Market, dozens of Hmong women gather to sell jewelry, handicrafts, and textiles. In doing so, they’ve changed the traditional Hmong family structure; no longer is the man the head of every household. The Hmong/Mong speak Hmong.

      Gia Rai (Population: about 500,000) This group, also known as the Jarai, lives primarily in Vietnam’s Central Highlands (a few thousand live in Cambodia). The Gia Rai culture is matrilineal. It is an agricultural society, and the Gia Rai grow crops and raise pigs, chicken, buffaloes, oxen, and horses. Cloth and basket weaving are popular, and back baskets are often used to transport loads. The Gia Rai were originally animists (those who believe nonhuman entities have spirits), but visits by American missionaries have resulted in several thousand converts to Christianity. The Gia Rai speak Gia Rai, a Malayo-Polynesian language, as well as Vietnamese. Gia Rai men wear white or striped loin clothes (toai) and sometimes a short black jacket. Women dress in long indigo sarongs with designs on the hem and a long-sleeve black top with colorful sleeves.

      Cham (Population: about 170,000) When the Ancient Kingdom of Champa was annexed by Vietnam, many Cham fled to present-day Hainan (China), Trengganu (Malaysia), and south to Cambodia. Today, the Cham in Vietnam live in the central part of the country, including in Ho Chi Minh City. Many are Hindu (compared to the Muslim Cham in Cambodia). In Vietnam, the group speaks Cham and Vietnamese. Most Cham living in urban centers dress in mostly Western clothing. Those who live in more rural areas wear a sarong, with men wearing a shirt on top and women wearing a form-fitting blouse. Both sexes use turbans or head wraps.

      What to Watch and Read

      RECOMMENDED READING

      Historical texts on Vietnam War

      Some of the most comprehensive histories of the Vietnam War are David Halberstam’s The Best and the Brightest, Stanley Karnow’s Vietnam: A History, Neil Sheehan’s A Bright Shining Lie, and George C. Herring’s America’s Longest War: The United States and Vietnam, 1950–1975.

      Frances FitzGerald’s Fire in the Lake provides histories of the war from both the American and Vietnamese perspectives. Other insightful accounts of the war include Michael Herr’s Dispatches and Nayan Chanda’s Brother Enemy: The War After the War, which looks at the close of the Vietnam War and Vietnam’s emerging conflicts with both Cambodia and China throughout the 1980s.

      Novels and short fiction on Vietnam War

      Several moving personal narratives (some fictionalized) have been written about the war, including A Rumor of War by Philip Caputo, In Pharaoh’s Army by Tobias Wolff, Fields of Fire by James Webb, Chickenhawk by Robert Mason, and The Things They Carried by Tim O’Brien. A more recent account of the war is Karl Marlantes epic novel Matterhorn, which took the Oregon writer almost 35 years to write. For an altogether lighter read Ed Gaydos, who recounts his tour of duty in Vietnam in his memoirs Seven in a Jeep, injecting a good dose of humor and intelligence into otherwise intolerable conditions.

      Tom Mangold’s The Tunnels of Cu Chi describes the Vietcong movement based in the tunnels around Cu Chi. Michael Lanning’s Inside the VC and the NVA examines the workings of the North Vietnamese army and the Vietcong. When Heaven and Earth Changed Places is Le Ly Hayslip’s story of her life before, during, and after the Vietnam War.

      In Robert Olen Butler’s collection, A Good Scent from a Strange Mountain, each story is told by a Vietnamese immigrant in New Orleans, which gives provides a look at the war’s aftermath from a non-American point of view, something that’s not all that common in English language writing about the period. Tatjana Soli’s penetrating novel The Lotus Eaters tells of an American war photojournalist involved in a love triangle as the fall of Saigon plays out. Meanwhile, the very 21st-century tragicomedy, The Sympathizer, by Viet Thanh Nguyen, uses the voice of a Vietnamese undercover agent to present a stark view of the end of the war and what followed.

      Texts on present-day Vietnam

      To learn more about contemporary Vietnam read Henry Kamm’s Dragon Ascending: Vietnam and the Vietnamese and Justin Wintle’s Romancing Vietnam, which depicts his fascinating experiences as one of the first writers to travel the country north to south after Vietnam first opened its doors to tourism. Look for an account of traveling through Vietnam by train in Paul Theroux’s The Great Railway Bazaar. For a sense of Vietnam before you go, Walter Mason’s Destination Saigon is a sometimes-funny tale of his travel experiences and people he met along the way. Andrew X. Pham’s Catfish and Mandala is the Vietnamese American author’s exploration of his roots, on a bicycle. If you’re looking for a good insight into the street food culture of Vietnam, Tracey Lister and Andreas Pohl’s Vietnamese Street Food takes readers on a colorful journey (with recipes) across a country obsessed with food. Included are a few helpful pointers on where you’ll get the best pho.

      For an intimate, visual rendering of the people and places of this beautiful and historical country, look to Vietnam: Portraits and Landscapes, featuring the stunning photography of Peter Steinhauer or Passage to Vietnam: Through the Eyes of Seventy Photographers. For images of the war, look for Requiem, a moving collection of war pictures by photographers who died at work in Indochina between 1954 and 1989.

      FILMS

      Films set in Vietnam

      The Lover (1991), a Jean-Jacques Annaud film based on the Marguerite Duras novel, is the tale of a young French woman coming of age in colonial Vietnam and her relationship with her Chinese lover. Régis Wargnier’s Indochine (1992), starring Catherine Deneuve, is another film set in Vietnam during the French colonial era; it showcases the beautiful scenery of North Vietnam and is credited for putting Halong Bay on the map. Graham Greene’s 1955 antiwar novel The Quiet American yielded two movie adaptations of the same name. The 1958 film eschews Greene’s antiwar message, while the 2002 remake by Phillip Noyce is more faithful to its source material. Apocalypse Now (1979) is Francis Ford Coppola’s powerful look at the Vietnam War based on Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darkness; it stars Martin Sheen, Marlon Brando, and Dennis Hopper. Oliver Stone’s Platoon (1986), with Tom Berenger, Willem Dafoe, and Charlie Sheen, is a harrowing, first-person tale of a young soldier’s experience in the war. The Deer Hunter (1978) is a Michael Cimino film about three steelworkers from Pennsylvania who go off to fight in Vietnam; it stars Robert De Niro, John Savage, Meryl Streep, and Christopher Walken. Stanley Kubrick’s Full Metal Jacket (1987) takes an unblinking look at the realities of the Vietnam War from the perspective of a U.S. army journalist. In Randall Wallace’s We Were Soldiers (2002), Mel Gibson plays a colonel leading his soldiers in the first major, and bloody, battle of the Vietnam War.

      Documentaries

      Ken Burns’s 18-hour documentary The Vietnam War is disturbing and compelling, with powerful first-person interviews. For an inside look at the making of Apocalypse Now, see the documentary Hearts of Darkness: A Filmmaker’s Apocalypse (1991). Bill Couturié, in his documentary about the Vietnam War, Dear America: Letters Home from Vietnam (1987), uses newsreels, amateur footage, and letters read by Robert De Niro, Sean Penn, and others to portray soldiers’ experiences.

      Vietnamese films

      Nhat Minh Dang’s When the Tenth Month Comes (1984) documents the struggle of ordinary Vietnamese villagers in the years after the war. It focuses on a young mother’s grief and guilt after her husband was killed during the fighting, and the difficulties of coping with loss. Following the story of Vietnam’s boat people, Ham Tran’s Journey From The Fall (2009) is an inspirational true story of one Vietnamese family’s successful resettlement in the United States. Contemporary French-Vietnamese filmmaker Tran Anh Hung’s beautifully filmed The Scent of Green Papaya (1993) follows the life of a young female servant in Saigon. Tran Anh Hung’s Cyclo (1995) portrays the rough and violent life of a bicycle-taxi driver who is inducted into the mafia-world of postwar Saigon.

      Chapter 2: TRAVEL SMART

      Know Before You Go

      Do I need vaccines before my trip? Is it safe there? Do I need to carry cash? You may have a few questions before you head out on vacation to Vietnam. We’ve got answers and a few tips to help you make the most of your trip.

      ENGLISH ISN’T ALWAYS SPOKEN

      While English proficiency throughout Vietnam is low, and few foreigners visiting Vietnam speak Vietnamese, it is surprisingly easy to get around. English-speakers are most prevalent in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, where the urban population is highly educated. Nearly all teenagers and university-aged people speak some English, and they’re often happy to help. When in doubt, write it out: some locals can read English much better than they can speak it. For places that are on the tourist circuit, from Sapa in the north, to Phu Quoc in the south, vendors are used to speaking basic English. In places that see crowds of visitors, such as the big cities and Hoi An, even some taxi drivers understand simple English directions (left, right, stop). If you can’t find anyone on the street, duck into a hotel catering to Westerners and you’ll find staff members who know the area and tend to speak better-than-average English.

      THE CONCEPT OF FACE IS IMPORTANT

      Just as in other Asian countries, the concept of face is very important. You can give face, lose face, and help others save face. As face can be a tricky concept for foreigners, the safest way to give it is to compliment someone’s family or their business acumen. When meeting people, you can shake hands as is done in the West, but locals may do so with both hands, and bow slightly as a sign of respect—especially if you’re meeting someone elderly. When doing business it is polite to exchange business cards; do so with both hands. At religious sites, cover your shoulders and knees. Be sure not to raise your voice or gesture obscenely at staff; if you cause a scene or harass women, you may

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