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    Lonely Planet East Coast Australia
    Lonely Planet East Coast Australia
    Lonely Planet East Coast Australia
    Ebook1,538 pages14 hours

    Lonely Planet East Coast Australia

    By Anthony Ham

    ()

    Read preview

    • Travel

    • Wildlife

    • Tourism

    • Beaches

    • Nature

    • Road Trip

    • Exploration

    • Fish Out of Water

    • Mentor

    • Quest

    • Beach Vacation

    • Chosen One

    • Journey

    • Great Outdoors

    • Exotic Locations

    • Surfing

    • National Parks

    • Accommodation

    • Australia

    • Food & Drink

    About this ebook

    Lonely Planet’s East Coast Australia is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Dive on the Great Barrier Reef, sail the Whitsundays, and hike the Blue Mountains; all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of East Coast Australia and begin your journey now!

     

    Inside Lonely Planet’s East Coast Australia Travel Guide: 

    Up-to-date information - all businesses were rechecked before publication to ensure they are still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak

    NEW pull-out, passport-size 'Just Landed' card with wi-fi, ATM and transport info - all you need for a smooth journey from airport to hotel

    Improved planning tools for family travellers - where to go, how to save money, plus fun stuff just for kids

    What's New feature taps into cultural trends and helps you find fresh ideas and cool new areas our writers have uncovered

    NEW Accommodation feature gathers all the information you need to plan your accommodation

    Colour maps and images throughout

    Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests

    Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots

    Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, transit tips, prices

    Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss

    Cultural insights give you a richer, more rewarding travel experience - history, people, music, landscapes, wildlife, cuisine, politics

    Over 95 maps 

    Covers Sydney, New South Wales, Byron Bay, Canberra, Melbourne, Coastal Victoria, the Gold Coast, Brisbane, Noosa, the Sunshine Coast, Fraser Island, Capricorn Coast, Southern Reef Islands, Whitsunday Coast, Townsville, Mission Beach, Cairns, Daintree Rainforest

     

    The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet’s East Coast Australia, our most comprehensive guide to East Coast Australia, is perfect for both exploring top sights and taking roads less travelled. 

     

    Looking for just the highlights? Check out Pocket Sydney, a handy-sized guide focused on the can't-miss sights for a quick trip.

     

    Looking for more extensive coverage? Check out Lonely Planet’s Australia for a comprehensive look at all the country has to offer.

     

    About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day. 

     

    'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' – New York Times

     

    'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' – Fairfax Media (Australia)

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherLonely Planet
    Release dateFeb 15, 2022
    ISBN9781838692810
    Lonely Planet East Coast Australia
    Author

    Anthony Ham

    Anthony Ham es un fotógrafo y escritor independiente especializado en España, el sur y este de África, el Ártico y Oriente Medio que colabora con periódicos y revistas de Australia, Gran Bretaña y EEUU. En el 2001, tras años de recorrer mundo, se enamoró perdidamente de Madrid en su primera visita, y antes de un año estaba de vuelta con un billete solo de ida, sin hablar nada de español y sin conocer a nadie en la ciudad. Cuando 10 años más tarde por fin dejó la capital de España, hablaba español con acento madrileño, se había casado con una lugareña y Madrid se había convertido en su segundo hogar. De nuevo en Australia, Anthony sigue recorriendo el mundo en busca de historias.

    Read more from Anthony Ham

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      Book preview

      Lonely Planet East Coast Australia - Anthony Ham

      Front CoverLonely Planet Logo

      East Coast Australia

      MapHow To Use This eBookFull Page SamplerbuttonCountry Map

      Contents

      Plan Your Trip

      Welcome to East Coast Australia

      East Coast Australia’s Top 20

      Need to Know

      What’s New

      Accommodation

      Getting Around

      If You Like…

      Month by Month

      Itineraries

      Your Reef Trip

      East Coast Australia Outdoors

      Family Travel

      Regions at a Glance

      On The Road

      SYDNEY & AROUND

      Sydney

      Blue Mountains

      Royal National Park

      The Central Coast

      The Hunter Valley

      Newcastle

      BYRON BAY & NORTH COAST NEW SOUTH WALES

      Port Stephens

      Mid-North Coast

      The Lakes Way

      Forster-Tuncurry

      Port Macquarie

      Crescent Head

      South West Rocks

      Nambucca Heads

      Bellingen

      Coffs Harbour

      Far North Coast

      Grafton

      Yamba & Angourie

      Ballina

      Lennox Head

      Byron Bay

      Cabarita Beach

      North Coast Hinterland

      Mullumbimby

      Bangalow

      Nimbin

      CANBERRA & SOUTH COAST NEW SOUTH WALES

      Canberra

      Wollongong & Around

      Kiama & Around

      Kangaroo Valley

      Shoalhaven Coast

      Berry

      Jervis Bay

      Booderee National Park

      Ulladulla & Mollymook

      Eurobodalla Coast

      Batemans Bay

      Moruya

      Narooma

      Tilba Tilba & Central Tilba

      Sapphire Coast

      Bermagui

      Merimbula & Pambula

      Eden

      Ben Boyd National Park

      MELBOURNE & COASTAL VICTORIA

      Melbourne

      Great Ocean Road & Bellarine Peninsula

      Geelong

      Bellarine Peninsula

      Torquay

      Torquay to Anglesea

      Anglesea

      Aireys Inlet & Around

      Lorne

      Wye River

      Kennett River

      Apollo Bay

      Cape Otway

      Port Campbell National Park

      Port Campbell

      Warrnambool

      Tower Hill Reserve

      Port Fairy

      Portland

      Nelson

      Mornington Peninsula

      Sorrento & Portsea

      Point Nepean National Park

      Phillip Island

      Wilsons Promontory & Gippsland

      Fish Creek

      Wilsons Promontory National Park

      Lakes District

      East Gippsland & the Wilderness Coast

      BRISBANE & AROUND

      Brisbane

      Around Brisbane

      North Stradbroke Island

      Moreton Island

      THE GOLD COAST

      Surfers Paradise

      Main Beach & Southport

      Broadbeach

      Mermaid Beach & Miami

      Burleigh Heads

      Palm Beach & Currumbin

      Coolangatta

      Gold Coast Hinterland

      NOOSA & THE SUNSHINE COAST

      Noosa

      Bribie Island

      Glass House Mountains

      Caloundra

      Mooloolaba & Maroochydore

      Coolum

      Peregian Beach & Sunshine Beach

      Cooloola Coast

      Eumundi

      Sunshine Coast Hinterland

      FRASER ISLAND & THE FRASER COAST

      Hervey Bay

      Fraser Island

      Rainbow Beach

      Gympie

      Maryborough

      Childers

      Burrum Coast National Park

      Bundaberg

      CAPRICORN COAST & THE SOUTHERN REEF ISLANDS

      Agnes Water & Town of 1770

      Eurimbula & Deepwater National Parks

      Gladstone

      Southern Reef Islands

      Rockhampton & Around

      Yeppoon

      Great Keppel Island

      Capricorn Hinterland

      WHITSUNDAY COAST

      Mackay

      Eungella National Park

      Cape Hillsborough National Park

      Airlie Beach

      Conway National Park

      The Whitsundays

      Long Island

      Hook Island

      South Molle Island

      Daydream Island

      Hamilton Island

      Hayman Island

      Lindeman Island

      Whitsunday Island

      Bowen

      TOWNSVILLE TO MISSION BEACH

      Townsville

      Magnetic Island

      Ingham & Around

      Cassowary Coast

      Cardwell

      Tully

      Mission Beach

      Dunk Island

      Innisfail

      CAIRNS & THE DAINTREE RAINFOREST

      Cairns

      Around Cairns

      Islands off Cairns

      Cairns’ Northern Beaches

      South of Cairns

      Atherton Tablelands

      Kuranda

      Mareeba

      Atherton

      Lake Tinaroo

      Yungaburra

      Crater Lakes National Park

      Malanda & Around

      Millaa Millaa

      Port Douglas

      The Daintree

      Mossman

      Daintree Village

      Cow Bay & Around

      Cape Tribulation

      Understand

      History

      Environment

      Food & Drink

      Sport

      Survival Guide

      Directory A–Z

      Accessible Travel

      Bargaining

      Customs Regulations

      Discount Cards

      Etiquette

      Electricity

      Embassies & Consulates

      Health

      Insurance

      Internet Access

      Legal Matters

      LGBTIQ+ Travellers

      Maps

      Money

      Opening Hours

      Post

      Public Holidays

      Safe Travel

      Telephone

      Time

      Toilets

      Tourist Information

      Visas

      Volunteering

      Women Travellers

      Work

      Transport

      GETTING THERE & AWAY

      Entering the Country

      Air

      Land

      Sea

      GETTING AROUND

      Air

      Bicycle

      Boat

      Bus

      Car & Motorcycle

      Hitching & Ride-Sharing

      Local Transport

      Train

      Behind the Scenes

      Our Writers

      Covid-19

      We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after 2020’s COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained, and many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, have changed their opening hours and services, or require bookings; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.

      jpg

      Red bottlebrush tree | FIRELIA/ACQUIA ©

      Welcome to East Coast Australia

      The ultimate Aussie road trip, East Coast Australia connects Melbourne with the Great Barrier Reef, with picture-perfect beaches, hip cities and rainforests en route.

      Into the Wild

      Strung out for nearly 10,000km, Australia’s east coast is a stirring succession of beaches and the country’s best surf breaks. Offshore, the astonishing Great Barrier Reef is a 2000km-long hypercoloured haven for tropical marine life. Also here are hundreds of islands, from craggy nature reserves to palm-studded paradises. Inland are national parks with lush rainforests, jagged peaks and native critters that rate from cuddleworthy (koalas) to photogenic (cassowaries and Ulysses butterflies) and fearsome (saltwater crocs).

      Action Stations

      East Coast Australia is not just about seeing, and the doing is half the fun – jogging, swimming, surfing, cycling, kayaking, snorkelling, hiking… Why not join in? Get underwater on the Great Barrier Reef, the most photogenic submarine landscape on earth. Raft your way down white-water rapids, sea-kayak along the coast or set sail through a tropical archipelago. Hike up a mountain, through the rainforest of a national park or alongside a rushing river. Or just head for the beach, where the locals let it all hang out.

      City Scenes

      Home to Indigenous Australians for millennia, the east coast is also where modern Australia kicked off around Sydney. Sassy and ambitious yet unpretentious, Sydneysiders eat, drink, shop and party with hedonistic abandon. To the south, Melbourne is Australia’s arts and coffee capital – a cafe-rich, European-style city with a bohemian soul. Wrapped around river bends, boom-town Brisbane is a glam patchwork of inner-city neighbourhoods. And don’t forget Australia’s capital, Canberra – so much more than a political filing cabinet!

      Eat, Drink & Celebrate

      Australia’s big east-coast cities provide a rich culinary experience, with fantastic cafes, sprawling food markets and world-class restaurants. After dark, moody wine bars, student-filled speakeasies and boisterous Aussie pubs provide plenty of excuses to bend an elbow, chew the fat and maybe join in the local passion for watching sports. Beyond the cities, enjoy fish (straight off the fishing boats) and chips, the produce of cheesemakers and small-town bakeries, and fine-dining meals, all paired perfectly with high-quality wines from the Mornington Peninsula or Hunter and Yarra Valleys.

      jpg

      The Rocks and the Sydney Habour Bridge | GORDON BELL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Why I Love East Coast Australia

      By Anthony Ham, Writer

      In the course of a travelling lifetime, I’ve ranged all along this gorgeous coast. Melbourne will always be home, and it’s a city that just keeps getting better. Growing up in Sydney, I spent most of my summer holidays exploring the New South Wales coast, and still adore its wild coastline and rugged national parks. But Far North Queensland is a far more recent passion, and its combination of reef and rainforest, of wildlife and soulful Indigenous stories and encounters, go to the very heart of why I love this country.

      For more about Our Writers

      anthony-ham-2016RGB-jpg

      East Coast Australia’s Top 20

      Sydney

      1The big-ticket sights are all in Sydney – the Sydney Opera House, the Rocks and Sydney Harbour Bridge top most people’s lists – but to really catch the city’s vibe, spend a day at the beach. Stake out a patch of sand at Bondi Beach (or any of Sydney’s stellar beaches), lather yourself in sunscreen and plunge into the surf; or hop on a harbour ferry from Circular Quay to Manly for a swim, a surf or a walk along the sea-sprayed promenade to Shelly Beach.

      jpg

      ZETTER / GETTY IMAGES ©

      Top Experiences

      Great Barrier Reef

      2The Great Barrier Reef lives up to its reputation. Stretching more than 2000km along the Queensland coastline, it’s a complex ecosystem populated with dazzling coral, languid sea turtles, gliding rays, timid reef sharks and 1500 species of colourful tropical fish. Whether you dive on it, snorkel over it, explore it via a scenic flight or glass-bottom boat, linger in an island resort or camp on a remote atoll, this vivid undersea kingdom and its 900 coral-fringed islands is an unforgettable world waiting to be discovered.

      jpg

      JEFF HUNTER / GETTY IMAGES ©

      Top Experiences

      Daintree Rainforest

      3Lush green rainforest tumbles towards brilliant white-sand coastline in the ancient, World Heritage–listed Daintree Rainforest . Upon crossing the Daintree River and entering this extraordinary wonderland – home to some 3000 plant species – you’ll be enveloped by birdsong, the buzz of insects and the constant commentary of frogs. There are crocs, tree kangaroos and cassowaries. Continue exploring on wildlife-spotting tours, mountain treks, interpretive boardwalks, tropical-fruit orchard tours, canopy walks, 4WD trips, horse rides, kayak trips and cruises.

      jpg

      AUSTRALIANCAMERA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      Indigenous Far North Queensland

      4The human history of Far North Queensland is as dramatic as its natural surrounds. Indigenous people have called the region’s rainforests and beaches home for more than 40,000 years, and a boom in Aboriginal-led tours and experiences makes it easier than ever to see it all through Aboriginal eyes. Throw a spear, make a boomerang, sample bush tucker, interpret rock art, go on a rainforest walk, or learn the didgeridoo: a world of new – yet incredibly old – adventures awaits.

      jpg

      CHAMELEONSEYE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      Wildlife Watching

      5Head to Phillip Island for a parade of adorable little penguins and fur seals cavorting along the rocky shore, or into tropical Far North Queensland for other-worldly cassowaries, tree kangaroos and dinosaur-like crocodiles. In between, you’ll find a panoply of extraordinary animals found nowhere else on earth: koalas, kangaroos, wombats and platypuses. There’s also great whale watching along the coast in season (May to November), plus the omnipresent laughter of kookaburras, to say nothing of the extraordinary marine life all along the Great Barrier Reef.

      jpg

      GEKKO GALLERY / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      Sailing the Whitsunday Islands

      6You can hop around an entire archipelago of tropical islands for a seafaring lifetime and never find anywhere with the sheer tropical beauty of the Whitsundays . Travellers of all stripes launch yachts from party town Airlie Beach and elsewhere to drift between these lush green isles in a slow search for paradise (you’ll probably find it in more than one place). Sheltered, palm-fringed coves; some of the world’s most beautiful beaches; and turquoise seas – what more could you wish for?

      jpg

      ANDREW ATKINSON / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      Byron Bay

      7Australia’s most easterly point, Byron Bay – Byron to its mates – is one of the enduring icons of Australian culture. Families on school holidays, surfers and sunseekers from around the globe and those seeking to escape the rat race gather here, drawn by fabulous restaurants, a laid-back ethos, surf beaches and an astonishing range of activities. This is one of the most beautiful stretches of coast in the country and, although it’s markedly upmarket these days, the town’s infectious hippie vibe will still put a smile on your dial.

      jpg

      ANDRII SLONCHAK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      Melbourne

      8Why the queue? Oh, that’s just the line to get into the latest ‘no bookings’ restaurant in Melbourne . The next best restaurant, cafe, barista or bar may be the talk of the town, but there are things locals would never change: the galleries and dynamic cultural life, the leafy parks and gardens in, the trams that whisk creative ‘northerners’ to sea-breezy southern beaches and the allegiances that living in such a sports-mad place brings. And the city’s world-renowned street-art scene expresses Melbourne’s fears, frustrations and joys.

      jpg

      Flinders St Station | ONFOKUS / GETTY IMAGES ©

      Top Experiences

      Great Ocean Road

      9Jutting out of turbulent waters, the Twelve Apostles on the Great Ocean Road are one of Victoria’s defining sights, but it’s the getting-there road trip that doubles their impact. Take it slow along roads that curl beside Bass Strait beaches, then whip inland through wildlife-rich rainforest and quaint little towns. The Great Ocean Road doesn’t stop at the Twelve Apostles – further along is maritime treasure Port Fairy and hidden Cape Bridgewater. And for the ultimate in slow travel, hike the Great Ocean Walk from Apollo Bay to the Apostles.

      jpg

      KAMALA SAKORNMANEESUP / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      Blue Mountains

      10 Just a few hours from Sydney, the views from Katoomba’s Echo Point and Blackheath’s Govetts Leap in the Blue Mountains are so good that you’ll find yourself pushing to the front of the crowd then pushing your camera’s memory card to the limit. After the photo shoot, hike a trail into the magnificent Jamison Valley or Grose Valley, accompanied by the scent of eucalyptus oil, a fine mist of which issues from the dense tree canopy and gives these World Heritage–listed mountains their name.

      jpg

      Echo Point, Blue Mountains | OLGA KASHUBIN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      Fraser Island

      11 Fraser Island is an ecological wonderland created by drifting sand, where dingoes roam free and lush rainforest grows on sand. It’s an elemental place, a primal island utopia, home to a profusion of wildlife, including the purest strain of dingo in Australia. The best way to explore the island is in a 4WD – cruising up the seemingly endless Seventy-Five Mile Beach and bouncing along sandy inland tracks. Tropical rainforest, pristine freshwater pools and beach camping under the stars will bring you back to nature.

      jpg

      LIVINGMASTER / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      Wilsons Promontory

      12 Victoria’s southernmost point and finest coastal national park, Wilsons Promontory – aka ‘Wilson’s Prom’, or just ‘the Prom’ – is heaven for bushwalkers, wildlife watchers, surfers and photographers. A short detour from the park base at Tidal River (pictured below) will access swathes of white-sand beaches and bays. But with more than 80km of marked walking trails, the best of the Prom requires some leg work. Serious hikers should tackle the three-day Great Prom Walk, staying a night in gloriously isolated lighthouse keepers’ cottages.

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      TSVIBRAV / GETTY IMAGES ©

      Top Experiences

      Noosa National Park

      13 Cloaking the headland beside the stylish resort town of Noosa, Noosa National Park features a string of perfect bays fringed with sand and pandanus trees. Surfers come here for the long, rolling waves; walkers make the trip for the unspoiled natural vibes. Lovely hiking trails crisscross the park: our pick is the scenic coastal trail to Hell’s Gates, on which you might spy sleepy koalas in the trees around Tea Tree Bay, and dolphins swimming off the rocky headland.

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      VISUAL COLLECTIVE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      Brisbane

      14 Forget the nasty gossip. Once considered little more than a provincial sidekick to Sydney and Melbourne, Brisbane has reinvented itself as one of Asia Pacific’s hippest hubs. No longer happy to settle for 261 days of sunshine a year, Queensland’s new and improved capital is smashing it on the cultural front, with an ever-expanding variety of ambitious street art and galleries, boutique bookshops, secret cocktail bars and award-winning microbreweries. The result: big-city Australian cool with a laid-back, subtropical twist.

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      F11PHOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      Hunter Valley Wineries

      15 Picture this: a glass-fronted pavilion overlooking gently rolling hills covered with row after row of grape-heavy vines. Inside, you’re sipping a glass of golden-hued semillon and pondering a lunch menu of top-quality local produce. Make your choice, lean back, nurse a glass or two of earthy shiraz and settle in to enjoy your meal. Such experiences (and culinary riches) are just another day in New South Wales’ premier wine district, the Hunter Valley .

      jpg

      MARCO CASAVECCHIA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      Canberra

      16 Though Canberra is only a century old, Australia’s purpose-built capital has always been preoccupied with history. So it’s not surprising the major drawcards here are lavishly endowed museums and galleries that focus on recounting and interpreting the national narrative. Institutions such as the National Gallery of Australia, National Museum of Australia, National Portrait Gallery and Australian War Memorial offer visitors a fascinating insight into the country’s history and culture. An emerging culinary scene, a small-town feel and beautiful natural surrounds top it all off.

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      Australian War Memorial | ARTIE PHOTOGRAPHY (ARTIE NG) / GETTY IMAGES ©

      Top Experiences

      Montague Island

      17 Montague Island is one of wild Australia’s most underrated destinations. Offshore from Narooma, bald, boulder-strewn Montague is a haven for nesting seabirds, including 10,000 little penguins. Indigenous sacred sites, an unusual granite lighthouse, refurbished cottage accommodation and guided eco-tours set Montague apart from the mainland by more than the 9km boat ride it takes to get there. Diving (spot some grey nurse sharks!), seal watching and occasional pods of passing whales all add to the island’s appeal.

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      ALASTAIR POLLOCK PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©

      Top Experiences

      Gold Coast

      18 Brash, trashy, hedonistic, over-hyped…Queensland’s Gold Coast is all of these things. But if you’re looking for a party, bring it on! Beyond the clubs you’ll find rapidly growing food and craft-brew scenes, and an improbably gorgeous coastline of clean sand, warm water and peeling surf breaks. Here, Australia’s bronzed surf lifesavers patrol the sand and pit their skills against one another in surf carnivals – gruelling events involving ocean swimming, beach sprints and surf-boat racing. Australia’s biggest theme parks are also here, making this place a roller-coaster nirvana.

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      SW_PHOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Top Experiences

      Lady Elliot Island

      19 This ecofriendly resort island is one of the loveliest and most peaceful places to experience the Great Barrier Reef. Snorkel straight off Lady Elliot’s white sands – the living reef that surrounds the tiny coral cay is teeming with tropical fish, turtles and the island’s resident manta rays. At hatching time (January to April) you can see baby turtles scamper across the sand, and from June to October humpback whales pass by. Getting to the island, with a scenic flight over the turquoise reef-filled waters, is equally memorable.

      jpg

      JULES INGALL / GETTY IMAGES ©

      Top Experiences

      Bridge Climbing

      20 Vertigo not an issue? Make a beeline for Sydney’s iconic Harbour Bridge or Brisbane’s Story Bridge and scale their steely heights. Once only the domain of bridge painters and trespassing daredevils, Sydney’s big arch can now be tackled by anyone on a BridgeClimb . Story Bridge Adventure Climb is a newer experience, but no less mesmerising. And it’s not just about the sublime city views − the bridges themselves are amazing structures!

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      ALBERTO MAZZA / 500PX ©

      Need to Know

      For more information, see Survival Guide

      Currency

      Australian dollar ($)

      Language

      English

      Visas

      All visitors to Australia need visas; only New Zealanders are granted a visa on arrival. Apply online through the Department of Immigration & Border Protection

      Money

      ATMs widely available. Credit cards accepted at most hotels, restaurants and shops.

      Mobile Phones

      Many service providers offer free roaming in Australia. If yours doesn’t, buy a SIM card and prepaid charge card at airport mobile-phone outlets.

      Time

      Australia’s east coast is on Australian Eastern Standard Time (AEST) – GMT/UTC plus 10 hours. Australia (except Queensland) observes daylight-saving time (October to early April).

      When to Go

      03-climate-eca7-jpg

      High Season (Dec–Feb)

      A Summertime: hot and humid up north, warm and dry down south.

      A Prices rise 25% for big-city accommodation.

      A Low season, unsafe swimming from November to May (jellyfish, aka ‘stingers’) in the tropical north.

      Shoulder (Sep–Nov & Mar–May)

      A Warm sun, clear skies, shorter queues.

      A Spring flowers (October); autumn colours in Victoria (April).

      A Locals not yet stressed by summer crowds.

      Low Season (Jun–Aug)

      A Cool, rainy days and lower prices down south.

      A Tropical high season: mild days, low humidity, pricey beds.

      A Good visibility on the Great Barrier Reef.

      Useful Websites

      Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/australia) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

      Tourism Australia (www.australia.com) Government tourism site with loads of visitor info.

      Queensland Tourism (www.queenslandholidays.com.au) Queensland coverage.

      Visit NSW (www.visitnsw.com) New South Wales information.

      Visit Victoria (www.visitvictoria.com) Victoria’s official site.

      Coastalwatch (www.coastalwatch.com) Surf reports and cams.

      Important Numbers

      Exchange Rates

      For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com.

      Daily Costs

      Budget: Less than $150

      A Hostel dorm bed: $25–35

      A Double room in a hostel: $80–100

      A Budget pizza or pasta meal: $15–20

      A Short bus or tram ride: $4

      Midrange: $150–300

      A Double room in a motel or B&B: $130–250

      A Breakfast or lunch in a cafe: $20–30

      A Car hire per day: from $35

      A Short taxi ride: $25

      Top end: More than $300

      A Double room in a top-end hotel: from $250

      A Three-course meal in a classy restaurant: from $80

      A Adventure activities: sailing the Whitsundays from $300 per night, diving course $650

      A Domestic flight Sydney to Melbourne: from $100

      Opening Hours

      Business hours vary from state to state, but use the following as a guide:

      Banks 9.30am–4pm Monday to Thursday, to 5pm Friday

      Bars 4pm–late

      Cafes 7am–5pm

      Nightclubs 10pm–4am Thursday to Saturday

      Post Offices 9am–5pm Monday to Friday; some also 9am–noon Saturday

      Pubs 11am–midnight

      Restaurants noon–2.30pm and 6–9pm

      Shops 9am–4pm

      Supermarkets 7am–9pm

      Arriving in Australia

      Sydney Airport Airport Link trains to central Sydney every 10 minutes, 4.22am to 12.57am. Prebooked shuttle buses service city hotels. A taxi into the city costs $45 to $55 (30 minutes).

      Melbourne Airport SkyBus services (24 hours) to central Melbourne every 10 to 30 minutes. A taxi into the city costs around $50 to $55 (25 minutes).

      Brisbane Airport Airtrain trains to central Brisbane every 15 to 30 minutes, 5am to 10pm ($19.50). Prebooked shuttle buses service city hotels. A taxi into the city costs $45 to $55 (25 minutes).

      Etiquette

      There are several rules of etiquette in Australia.

      Greetings A simple ‘G’day’, smile or nod suffices when passing people. Shake hands with men or women when meeting for the first time.

      Aboriginal Communities Direct eye contact can be considered overbearing. Be respectful, wait to be acknowledged and respond in a like manner.

      Dry Communities Check whether alcohol restrictions apply when visiting remote communities. You may be breaking the law by having booze in your vehicle.

      BBQs Bring your own drinks and some sausages (aka ‘snags’) if invited to a barbecue.

      Photography For Aboriginal Australians, photography can be highly intrusive, and photographing people, cultural places, practices, images, sites of significance and ceremonies may not be welcomed.

      For much more, see Getting Around

      What’s New

      Here’s what’s happening in Australia right now. From a must-visit remote island and a surge in plant-based dining to boutique distilleries and mineral swimming pools, there’s plenty to entice both new visitors and old-timers. As the country recovers from wildfires, these visits will be more appreciated than ever.

      Best in Travel

      Tiny, remote Lord Howe Island was awarded fifth place in Lonely Planet’s list of top 10 regions internationally in 2020. Rising from the Pacific some 600km from the New South Wales (NSW) mainland, the visually breathtaking World Heritage–listed island is a refuge for endemic species and an excellent example of sustainably managed tourism. Only 400 visitors are allowed at any time, and they are encouraged to participate in a series of ecological projects.

      Cutting-Edge Art Gallery

      A bastion of culture in Surfers Paradise, HOTA is due to add an art gallery consisting of six floors of angular, colourful glass, inspired by William Robinson’s Rainforest painting, in 2021.

      Plant-Based Dining

      Foodie-mad Melbourne and Sydney continue along the path of a vegan revolution, with new all-vegan restaurants, and vegan options conspicuously being added to meat-laden menus, too. Places to try include Eden, Lentil as Anything, Smith & Daughters and Yellow.

      Ganyamalbaa Camping Trial

      At the Aboriginal-owned Worimi Conservation Lands, the Ganyamalbaa Campground in Port Stephens offers a unique camping experience on the largest moving sand dune system in the southern hemisphere.

      Must-Try Restaurants

      Tiny, graffiti-pimped and hidden down a laneway, the 10-seat, omakase-inspired, Brisbane-based Joy is creating culinary waves across the country. Other don’t-miss Mod Oz places are Ester, Cutler & Co and Quay.

      LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

      WHAT’S HAPPENING IN EAST COAST AUSTRALIA

      Anna Kaminski, Lonely Planet writer

      Australia is facing some of its biggest challenges yet, both in the political arena and on a purely existential level. The surprise defeat of the Labour Party and election of Scott Morrison of the Liberal Party in 2019 has left the country divided, not least because Morrison’s government refused to move away from Australia’s reliance on fossil fuels and opted to open the world’s largest coal mine in the face of the environmental changes that the country has been facing for some time. The bushfires of 2019–20 have been the worst on record, and the prime minister’s inadequate response saw his ratings plummet, but not sufficiently to cause his government to pivot on policies that don’t take climate change into account. Immigration also continues to be a divisive issue, though Australia remains a relatively outward-looking, welcoming country.

      Boutique Distilleries

      Boutique distilleries continue to blossom in Australia. Noosa’s first brewery, Land & Sea Brewery, has a new venture called Fortune Distillery. It will launch its first whisky in 2021, but there are already gins, vodka and a white malt to sample, and a rum on its way.

      Fresh Sydney Museums

      Sydney University’s impressive new Chau Chak Wing Museum shows off treasures from its 450,000-piece collection, while the Australian Museum has a new Pacific Spirit Gallery, among other exciting additions. Both were due to open in mid-2020.

      Light Rail in Sydney

      South East Light Rail has new tram lines up and running in Sydney, allowing you to cruise from Circular Quay through the city and out to Randwick in the Eastern Suburbs, and giving you easy tram access to the beach at Newcastle.

      Budj Bim Cultural Landscape

      While this ancient aquaculture system developed by the Gunditjmara people is anything but new (dating back 6600 years!), what has changed is that it’s been recognised by Unesco as a World Heritage Site. It’s the only place in Australia listed exclusively for its Aboriginal culture. It’s near Portland in Victoria.

      From Bushfires to Solutions

      South coast NSW faced a harrowing spate of bushfires over the summer of 2019–20. For towns like Mogo, almost everything will have to be rebuilt. Yet the renewed sense of community spirit is palpable as those who choose to stay and work in tourism-related industries seek practical solutions for dealing with climate change.

      Mineral Pools

      Swimming pools are no longer just pools, with a growing number of smaller hotels, such as Byron Bay’s Bower, opting for magnesium/mineral swimming pools. With no chlorine, guests smell better after a soak, and the magnesium reputedly has healing qualities.

      Aboriginal-led Wildlife Excursions

      Aboriginal-led excursions in search of wildlife in rainforest and rivers, such as Kuku-Yalanji Dreamtime Gorge Walk and diving and snorkelling operations like Dreamtime Dive & Snorkel, are increasingly a part of the traveller experience in north Queensland.

      LISTEN, WATCH & FOLLOW

      For inspiration and up-to-date news, visit www.lonelyplanet.com/australia/articles.

      twitter.com/Australia Official Tourism Australia Twitter account (@Australia).

      Q&A (www.abc.net.au/qanda/podcast) Podcast of the always-provocative ABC TV show Q&A, dissecting the issues (and politicians) in the firing line.

      Insta @placesweswim In-the-water Australian culture; see www.placesweswim.com for info on the book.

      The Real Thing (www.abc.net.au/radionational/programs/realthing) Podcast zooming in on quirky Aussie characters and stories.

      FAST FACTS

      Food trend Plant-based eateries

      Number of languages spoken in Australian homes 300

      Number of venomous snake species 100

      Pop 25.4 million

      australia-infographic-1-red-jpg

      Accommodation

      Find more accommodation reviews throughout the On the Road chapters

      Accommodation Types

      The east coast is a well-trodden route with plenty of accommodation for all budgets, but you still need to book ahead – especially through summer, over Easter and during school holidays.

      Camping & Caravan Parks East coast camping grounds and caravan parks are often close to the beach.

      Hostels Backpacker joints along the east coast are certainly characterful.

      Boutique Hotels From ritzy city boltholes to remote eco-retreats.

      Resorts Tropical island luxury – need we elaborate?

      Self-Contained Apartments & Cottages Beach houses, city apartments and hinterland cottages.

      Motels Drive-up motels line the east coast highways – unremarkable, perhaps, but clean, convenient, reliable and affordable.

      PRICE RANGES

      The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom in high season (December to February down south, June to September up north).

      $ less than $130

      $$ $130–$250

      $$$ more than $250

      Expect to pay $20 to $50 more in expensive areas – notably Sydney – and during school and public holidays.

      Best Places to Stay

      Best on a Budget

      Backpacker hostels are a wonderfully affordable and sociable way of seeing the east coast. There are dense clusters of them in cities and popular destinations (Sydney, Melbourne, Airlie Beach, Cairns) and they range from modest, family-run places to huge, custom-built party resorts. Dorm bed prices start at around $30 and increase to $55 in flash city hostels.

      A Nomads Arts Factory Lodge , Byron Bay

      A Nunnery , Melbourne

      A No 14 , Katoomba

      A On the Wallaby , Yungaburra

      A Brisbane Quarters , Brisbane

      A Keiraleagh , Wollongong

      Best Tropical Resorts

      Plenty of islands in Queensland have resorts. Here’s your chance to sleep for a week (with the odd cocktail and dip in the pool), or bring the family along for a fun-filled tropical holiday full of activities (snorkelling, kayaking, bushwalking, windsurfing, swimming, sailing…). Most resorts are at the pricey end of the scale – at least $260 a night, often a lot more – but some offer good family rates, particularly out of peak season.

      A Elysian Retreat , Long Island

      A Lizard Island Resort , Lizard Island

      A InterContinental Hayman Island Resort , Hayman Island

      A Orpheus Island Lodge , Orpheus Island

      A Armana Resort , Port Stephens

      A Kingfisher Bay Resort , Fraser Island

      Best for Nature Lovers

      Those wanting to get up close and personal with nature have almost unlimited options when it comes to roughing it. The majority of national parks have campgrounds, ranging from very basic (pit toilets and little else) to swish (hot showers, restaurant, wi-fi access). On the Great Barrier Reef, you can camp for a pittance ($6.55) on several uninhabited islands. At the high end of the spectrum are wilderness lodges, with safari tents, cabins and wildlife guides.

      A Cedar Park Rainforest Resort , Kuranda

      A Platypus Bushcamp , Eungella National Park

      A Takarakka Bush Resort , Carnarvon National Park

      A Bombah Point Eco Cottages , Myall Lakes National Park

      A Great Ocean Ecolodge , Cape Otway

      A Paperbark Camp , Jervis Bay

      Best Boutique Hotels

      A rarer beast than the ubiquitous, cookie-cutter motels, boutique accommodation ranges from lovingly restored historic houses in remote locations turned into intimate luxury retreats, to characterful small hotels in the big cities, distinguished by their contemporary design. They may have fewer amenities than larger luxury hotels, but tend to be distinguished by personalised service.

      A Bailey , Cairns

      A Spicers Vineyards Estate , Hunter Valley

      A Emporium Hotel , Brisbane

      A Cullen , Melbourne

      A Songbirds , Tamborine Mountain

      A Drift House , Port Fairy

      Best for Families

      Caravan parks are among the best options for those travelling with children. They usually have self-catering facilities and are often located near a beach and/or playground; the swisher ones come with swimming pools. In towns and cities, apartment hotels are a good bet, while in the countryside, some farmstays offer fun activities for kids.

      A Stoney Creek Farmstay , Mackay

      A Tyrian Serviced Apartments , Melbourne

      A Bower , Byron Bay

      A Great Keppel Island Holiday Village , Great Keppel Island

      jpg

      ELLINNUR BAKARUDIN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Booking

      Book all accommodation well ahead, particularly in national parks and in popular beach destinations. During peak season, minimum stays may apply at some hotels and resorts. Some camping grounds and wilderness resorts are seasonal and close outside certain months.

      Useful websites:

      Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/australia/hotels) Find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay – and then book them online.

      Couchsurfing (www.couchsurfing.com) Find a free bed on the fly.

      Flatmate Finders (www.flatmatefinders.com.au) For longer-term share-house stays.

      Find a Camp (www.findacamp.com.au) Camping and caravan park bookings all over Australia.

      Getting Around

      For more information, see Transport

      Travelling by Car

      Urban exploration aside, having your own wheels is the quintessential way to get around this vast nation, allowing you to set your own schedule and reach remote corners. Whether you’re focusing your visit on one state or several, road trips are a popular Australian experience.

      RESOURCES

      Australian Automobile Association (www.aaa.asn.au) Insurance, regulations, maps and roadside assistance. Club membership (around $100 to $150) is a big help if things go wrong mechanically.

      Australian Bureau of Meteorology (www.bom.gov.au) Weather information and road warnings.

      Maps.ME Super-handy map app with downloadable maps that work offline and in places with no phone signal. Features accommodation, places of interest and places to eat.

      TouchNote App that turns the photos you’ve taken en route into personalised postcards, so you have no excuse for not keeping in touch with grandma!

      Car Hire

      Major car-rental companies have desks at all major airports, including Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Cairns and Townsville. To rent a car, most companies require drivers to have a credit card and be over the age of 21, though in some cases it’s 18 and in others it’s 25. Know precisely what is included in the price: given the vast distances, having unlimited kilometres is essential, and check whether you’re covered on unavoidable unsealed roads. Renting a campervan saves on lodging.

      Driving Conditions

      East coast Australia has an excellent network of roads, ranging from motorways to bucolic roads through the scenic countryside. Most are in excellent condition, but it’s a bad idea to drive after dark due to a good chance of hitting wildlife. To drive some unsealed roads (and anywhere on sand), you’ll need a 4WD.

      No Car?

      Bus

      Australia’s extensive bus network is a reliable and reasonably inexpensive way to get around, but distances are often vast. Most Australian buses are equipped with air-con, comfortable seats and decent toilets; all are smoke-free and some have wi-fi and USB chargers. The main companies include Greyhound Australia (www.greyhound.com.au), Firefly Express (www.fireflyexpress.com.au) and Premier Motor Service (www.premierms.com.au).

      Another way to get around is by bus tour. Some include accommodation and meals; others are a means of getting from A to B and seeing the sights on the way.

      AAT Kings ( icon-phonegif %02-9028 5180; www.aatkings.com)

      Adventure Tours Australia ( icon-phonegif %1300 654 604; www.adventuretours.com.au)

      Autopia Tours ( icon-phonegif %1300 944 334; www.autopiatours.com.au)

      Oz Experience ( icon-phonegif %1300 473 946; www.ozexperience.com)

      Train

      Long-distance train travel falls into one of two categories. The expensive, scenic, once-in-a-lifetime category includes journeys between Sydney and Perth, Brisbane and Adelaide. Whereas the relatively inexpensive category includes somewhat slow services from Brisbane to Cairns, and Sydney to Brisbane, Melbourne and Canberra. The most notable long-distance rail journeys in East Coast Australia are run by the following:

      Queensland Rail

      NSW TrainLink

      V/Line

      Bicycle

      Cycling around Australia is possible, but will take considerable fitness and excellent planning, given the distances involved.

      If you’re bringing your own bike, bus companies within Australia require you to dismantle your bicycle. Trains sometimes have separate bike-storage facilities on board.

      Bike helmets are compulsory in all states and territories, as are white front lights and red rear lights for riding at night.

      Carry plenty of water at all times. Distances between towns can be gruellingly far. Avoid cycling in the middle of the day in hot weather. Wear high-vis outerwear.

      DRIVING FAST FACTS

      A Right or left? Left

      A Manual or automatic? Automatic

      A Top speed limit: 110km/h

      A Blood alcohol limit: 0.05%

      A Legal driving age: 16

      A Signature car: Hyundai i30

      A Alternative vehicle: Honda CB125E motorbike

      distance-chart-east-coast-australia-jpg

      If You Like…

      Beaches

      Bondi Beach Essential Sydney: carve up the surf or laze around and people-watch.

      Wilsons Promontory Victoria’s premier coastal wilderness, with deserted beaches.

      Fraser Island The world’s largest sand island is basically one big beach.

      Whitehaven Beach The jewel of the Whitsundays, with 5km of powdery white sand and gin-clear waters for snorkelling.

      Cape Tribulation The rainforest sweeps down to smooch the reef at empty stretches of sand loved by crocs.

      The Spit A long, wild stretch of pristine Gold Coast sand and dunes, beyond the high-rises and the crowds.

      Four Mile Beach Take a stinger-safe swim at Port Douglas, or go for a 4-mile beachcomb.

      Clarkes Beach Iconic strip of Byron Bay sand – at low tide you can walk to the lighthouse.

      Greenfield Beach White squeaky sand at Jervis Bay, ringed by gum trees and lapped at by gentle teal waters.

      Long Beach Long, pristine stretch of white sand on Great Keppel Island, with a naturist section for sunning your buns.

      jpg

      Whitehaven Beach, Hamilton Island. | IGNACIO PALACIOS / GETTY IMAGES ©

      Indigenous Culture

      Big Bend Walk Peruse centuries-old Aboriginal cave paintings and rock carvings in the Carnarvon National Park gorge.

      Dreamtime Southern X Fascinating walking and coach tours of Aboriginal sites in Sydney.

      Koorie Heritage Trust A great place to discover southeastern Aboriginal culture, in Melbourne.

      Kuku-Yalanji Dreamtime Walks Walks through Queensland’s Mossman Gorge with knowledgeable Indigenous guides.

      Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park Interactive tours and vibrant performances in Cairns by local Tjapukai people.

      Dreamtime Dive & Snorkel Indigenous sea rangers present the Great Barrier Reef in a new – read ancient – way.

      Mandingalbay Ancient Indigenous Tours Sample the bush tucker and rainforest remedies of Far North Queensland’s Mandingalbay Yidinji people.

      Bingi Dreaming Track This accessible coastal walk passes through ancient Yuin country in south coast NSW.

      Queensland Art Gallery This must-see Brisbane gallery includes a significant collection of art from modern and contemporary Aboriginal artists.

      Bataluk Cultural Trail Visit sites sacred to the Gunai and Kurnai people in east Gippsland.

      Wildlife Encounters

      Phillip Island Penguins The world’s largest little penguin colony; catch them at sunset marching up from the sea.

      Whale watching in Eden In season (July to November) you can spy whales offshore from Eden right up to the Great Barrier Reef.

      Ben Boyd National Park Muddle-headed wombats aplenty at this rambling national park near Eden.

      Montague Island (Barranguba) Spy some seals, seabirds and penguins offshore from Narooma.

      Solar Whisper Croc-seeking tours along the Daintree River and rainforest

      Eungella National Park Sit in silence by the creek and watch for the elusive platypus at dusk and dawn.

      Port Macquarie Koala Hospital Learn how you can help the native koala population devastated by the 2019 bushfires.

      Noosa National Park Koalas, dolphins and seasonal whales are easy to spot at this highly accessible pocket of green.

      Fraser Island The dingoes here are the purest breed in Australia.

      Port Douglas Go snorkelling out on the reef among an astonishing proliferation of marine life.

      jpg

      Members of the Tjapukai Dance Theatre | FREE AGENTS LIMITED / GETTY IMAGES ©

      Islands

      Montague Island (Barranguba) Seabirds, little penguins, fur seals…plus revamped lighthouse accommodation. What’s not to like?

      Cockatoo Island Amazing Sydney Harbour isle with a dazzling history.

      Lady Musgrave Island Camp on this tiny cay and swim and snorkel in a turquoise lagoon.

      Fraser Island Rev up your 4WD: the largest sand island in the world has giant sand dunes, freshwater lakes and rampant wildlife.

      The Whitsundays Jump aboard a yacht or speedboat, and explore as many of these amazing islands as you can.

      Lady Elliot Island Ringed by the Great Barrier Reef and reachable by light aircraft – the perfect place to play castaway.

      Fitzroy Island One of a handful of lovely islands off Cairns, with enticing beaches, rich coral and a hilly interior.

      Great Keppel Island Combine bushwalking with daydreaming on 17 white-sand beaches and turtle watching below the waves.

      Lizard Island Pitch a tent or check into the plush resort on this far-north island.

      Frankland Islands These five uninhabited, coral-fringed isles are custom-made for adventurers and beach bums alike.

      Month by Month

      TOP EVENTS

      Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras, February–March

      Byron Bay Bluesfest, April

      Melbourne International Film Festival, August

      Australian Football League Grand Final, September

      Brisbane Festival, September

      January

      January yawns into action as Australia recovers from its Christmas hangover, but then everyone realises, ‘Hey, it’s summer!’. Heat and humidity along the coast; monsoonal rains up north.

      z Sydney Festival

      ‘It’s big’ says the promo material. Indeed, sprawling over three summer weeks, the Sydney Festival, a fab mixture of music, dance, talks, theatre and visual arts – much of it free and family-focused – is an artistic behemoth.

      3 Australian Open

      Held at Melbourne Park in late January, the Australian Open draws tennis fanatics from around the planet as the world’s best duke it out on the courts. Invariably it’s baking hot.

      z Australia Day

      Australia Day (www.australiaday.com.au) is the nation’s ‘birthday’ – when the First Fleet landed on 26 January 1788. Expect picnics, barbecues, fireworks and, increasingly, nationalistic chest beating. In less of a mood to celebrate are Indigenous Australians and others sympathetic to the date’s relevance to their history, who refer to it as ‘Invasion Day’.

      February

      February is usually Australia’s warmest month: hot and sticky up north as the wet season continues, but divine in Victoria.

      z Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras

      Mardi Gras is a two-week-long arts festival running into March and culminating in a flamboyant parade along Sydney’s Oxford St that attracts 300,000 spectators. After-party tickets are gold.

      March

      Heat and humidity ease down south – crowds dissipate and resort prices drop. Meanwhile, high temperatures and general irritability prevail in the north.

      3 Australian Formula One Grand Prix

      Melbourne’s normally tranquil Albert Park explodes with four days of Formula One (www.grandprix.com.au) rev-head action in late March. The 5.3km street circuit around the lake is known for its smooth, fast surface.

      April

      Autumn brings golden colours to Victoria and cooler, mild temperatures to New South Wales (NSW). Up north it’s the end of the wet season: smiling faces and warm, pleasant weather.

      3 Byron Bay Bluesfest

      Music erupts over the Easter weekend when 20,000 festivalgoers swamp Byron Bay to hear blues-and-roots bands from all over the world (Ben Harper, Neil Young, Bonnie Raitt). Held on Tyagarah Tea Tree Farm, 11km north of Byron. Some folks camp.

      May

      Days grow noticeably cooler down south; beach days are unlikely anywhere south of the Gold Coast.

      z Biennale of Sydney

      Held in even-numbered years between March and June, Sydney’s Biennale showcases the work of hundreds of contemporary artists and is the country’s largest visual-arts event. Expect tours, talks, screenings and cutting-edge exhibitions. Most events are free.

      5 Noosa Eat & Drink

      One of Australia’s best regional culinary fests, with cooking demonstrations, wine tastings, cheese exhibits, feasting on gourmet fare and live concerts at night. Over three days in mid-May.

      z Sydney Writers’ Festival

      Books, words, books full of words… For one week in May, the Sydney Writers’ Festival hosts 300-plus novelists, essayists, poets, historians and philosophers – from Australia and beyond – who read their work, run workshops and host edifying panel discussions.

      2 Whale Watching

      Between May and November along the southeastern Australian coast, migrating southern right and humpback whales come close to shore to feed, breed and calve. See them at Eden (NSW), Warrnambool (Victoria), and Hervey Bay and North Stradbroke Island (Queensland).

      June

      The south shivers into winter, while tourist season kicks into high gear in the warm, clear tropical north with stinger-free beaches. Migrating whales cavort off the coast (until November).

      z Vivid Sydney

      Immersive light installations and projections in the city, plus performances from local and international musicians, and public talks and debates with leading global creative thinkers. Held over 18 days in August 2021.

      z Sydney Film Festival

      Held in venues across town, this excellent, highly regarded film festival screens art-house gems from Australia and around the world.

      3 State of Origin Series

      Rugby league fanatics consider this series of three matches (www.nrl.com) between Queensland and New South Wales the pinnacle of the game. One of the three is held in Sydney. The final match is held in July.

      July

      Pubs with open fires, cosy coffee shops and empty beaches down south; packed markets, tours and accommodation up north. Bring warm clothes for anywhere south of Brisbane.

      z Cairns Indigenous Arts Fair

      Thousands of collectors, curators and curious folk head to CIAF each year to experience a whirlwind of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art and culture.

      3 Splendour in the Grass

      A splendid alt-rock music festival in Byron Bay, Splendour draws the big names from around Australia and overseas for three days in late July (winter, so the grass can get a tad muddy).

      August

      August is when southerners, sick of winter’s grey-sky drear, head to Queensland for some sun.

      3 Melbourne International Film Festival

      As wildly popular as Toronto and Cannes, the Melbourne International Film Festival has been running since 1952. Myriad short films, feature-length spectaculars and documentaries flicker across inner-city screens.

      2 Airlie Beach Race Week

      Taking place over the second week in August, this is one of Australia’s largest yacht-racing regattas. Sailing aside, there’s live music and other festivities.

      z Melbourne Winter Festival

      Scheduled to start from 2020, Melbourne will combine the long-running Melbourne International Arts Festival and White Night into a single monolith major event that will run annually from 20 August to 6 September.

      z Cairns Festival

      Running for two weeks from late August into September, the massive art-and-culture Cairns Festival delivers a stellar program of music, theatre, dance, comedy, film, Indigenous art and public exhibitions. Lots of outdoor events.

      September

      Winter ends and spring returns, bringing wildflowers and brighter spirits in the south.

      z Bigsound Festival

      Brisbane’s new music festival, held over four nights in September, showcases dozens of up-and-coming artists in 18 venues across Fortitude Valley, attracting those on the lookout for fresh Aussie music.

      2 Australian Football League Grand Final

      The pinnacle of the AFL season is this high-flying spectacle in Melbourne, watched (on TV) by millions. At half-time everyone’s neighbourhood BBQ moves into the local park for a little amateur kick-to-kick.

      3 Brisbane Festival

      One of Australia’s largest, most diverse arts fiestas, the Brisbane Festival runs for 22 days in September. An impressive schedule includes concerts, plays, dance and fringe events. It finishes off with ‘Riverfire’, an elaborate fireworks show over the Brisbane River.

      October

      The weather avoids extremes everywhere: a good time to go camping or hit some vineyards.

      3 Caloundra Music Festival

      Held at Kings Beach, this family-friendly music festival spans four days and attracts crowds of up to 40,000 with its diverse line-up of musicians spanning all genres. Acts range from current and veteran Australian rock and indie pop to blues and soul acts and international guests.

      November

      Northern beaches may close due to ‘stingers’ – jellyfish in the shallows north of Agnes Water.

      3 Airlie Beach Festival of Music

      The Airlie Beach Festival of Music entails three days of letting it all hang out in the famous party town, with loads of live tunes to rock out to.

      December

      Holidays begin a week or two before Christmas. Up north, monsoon season is underway: afternoon thunderstorms bring pelting rain.

      3 Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race

      Pack a picnic and join the Boxing Day (26 December) crowds along Sydney’s waterfront to watch the start of the Sydney to Hobart, the world’s most arduous open-ocean yacht race (628 nautical miles!).

      3 Sydney Harbour New Year’s Eve Fireworks

      A fantastic way to ring in the new year: join the crowds overlooking the harbour as the Sydney Harbour Fireworks light up the night sky on 31 December. There’s a family display at 9pm; the main event erupts at midnight.

      Itineraries

      Sydney to Byron Bay

      -jpg

      10 DAYS

      Mountains, cities, wine, beaches and quirky towns: this road trip is an Australian classic.

      Kick-start your tour in Sydney, checking out the big-ticket sights, seeing and being seen on Bondi Beach, bar hopping and shopping. Don’t miss the seaside Bondi to Coogee Clifftop Walk. Dart inland to explore the Blue Mountains, with misty Katoomba’s cache of art-deco architecture and the amazing Three Sisters lookout. Alternatively, a couple of days drifting on the Hawkesbury River in a houseboat is serenity itself.

      Next stop is the the arts- and surf-loving city of Newcastle. Thirsty? Detour inland to the hedonistic vineyards of the Hunter Valley. Back on the coast, explore the pristine beaches of Myall Lakes National Park.

      Northern New South Wales basks in subtropical glory. Surf the excellent breaks at Crescent Head and splash around in the sea at South West Rocks. Hit Bellingen for a mix of bushwalking, canoeing and culture, then proceed to Coffs Harbour, where the kitsch Big Banana awaits your appreciation. Further north, Byron Bay is inescapable – a chilled-out beach town where surfers, hipsters and hippies share the sands. Meditating in Byron’s hinterland is the alt-stoner haven of Nimbin and laid-back Bangalow – both worthy day trips.

      Itineraries

      Cairns to Cape Tribulation

      -jpg

      2 WEEKS

      Far North Queensland is like nowhere else on earth – a dizzying array of coral reefs, tropical atolls, rainforests and interesting towns.

      Australia’s reef-diving capital and gateway to the Daintree Rainforest, Cairns is an obligatory east-coast destination. Spend a few days visiting botanic gardens, hip restaurants and buzzy watering holes. A short hop offshore, reef-trimmed Green Island and Fitzroy Island have verdant vegetation and lovely beaches. Further afield, a snorkelling or dive trip to the Great Barrier Reef is an essential east-coast experience, or plan a few days on a live-aboard expedition to Cod Hole (Lizard Island), one of Australia’s best dive spots.

      Next up, head inland on a gondola cableway or scenic railway to Kuranda for rainforest walks and a wander around the town’s famous markets. If you have your own wheels you can explore further: swing by the picturesque Millaa Millaa Falls and take a rainforest hike in spectacular Wooroonooran National Park.

      Back at sea level, treat yourself to a night in a plush resort at Palm Cove, just north of Cairns. An hour further north is Port Douglas, an up-tempo holiday hub with fab eateries, bars and a beaut beach. It’s also a popular base for boat trips to the outer reef. Next stop is Mossman Gorge, where lush lowland rainforest surrounds the photogenic Mossman River. Take a guided walk and cool off in a waterhole.

      Further north is the Daintree River, where you can go on a crocodile-spotting cruise then stop for lunch at the low-key Daintree Village. Afterwards, cross by vehicle ferry to the northern side of the river. From here continue driving north (easy does it – this is cassowary country!) to the Daintree Discovery Centre – a great place to learn about this magnificent jungle wilderness. The beach at nearby (and rather agriculturally named) Cow Bay is perfect for a few hours of beachcombing among the seashells and driftwood.

      Last stop on your tropical tour is Cape Tribulation, a magnificent natural partnership between rainforest and reef. Spend a few nights taking in the splendour at one of the camping or backpacker places nooked into the rainforest.

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      City Hall, Bundaberg, Queensland | SHANENK / GETTY IMAGES ©

      Itineraries

      Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road

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      5 DAYS

      Dip into east-coast Australia’s deep south, exploring hip Melbourne and the gorgeous Great Ocean Road.

      Melbourne can keep visitors engaged for months – bars, galleries, live music, shopping, AFL football…but the Great Ocean Road, a classic Aussie road trip, beckons.

      Start in the surfing mecca of Torquay and check the swell at Bells Beach, then head to family-focused Anglesea for a surf lesson and a riverside picnic. Aireys Inlet is next: tour the lighthouse, then spend the night in the resort town of Lorne.

      West of here, the Great Ocean Road gets seriously scenic, winding between the sea and the rainforest-clad Otway Ranges. Wind down in the artsy fishing town of Apollo Bay, then swing by Cape Otway to see some koalas and the lighthouse.

      Next up is Port Campbell National Park and its famed Twelve Apostles. Count them from the cliff tops, then spend a night in Port Campbell to get a real feel for the area. Scan for whales along the Warrnambool coast, then continue west to quaint, rather Irish-feeling Port Fairy. If there’s time, Cape Bridgewater is worth a visit.

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      Noosa Heads, Queensland | GORDON BELL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Itineraries

      Melbourne to Sydney

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      10 DAYS

      This 10-day coastal run offers lots of wilderness, bookended by Australia’s biggest cities. And don’t overlook Canberra!

      Kick off in savvy, coffee-scented Melbourne before exploring Phillip Island. Next stop is Wilsons Promontory with its fab bushwalks and beaches. Truck northeast through the Gippsland Lakes district to Mallacoota, a Victorian seaside town.

      Entering warmer south-coast NSW, sleepy Eden is famed for whale watching. Don’t miss picture-perfect Central Tilba. Continue to Narooma, with its pretty beaches and solid surf. From here, ferry out to Montague Island, an important Aboriginal site and nature reserve. Tracking north, detour inland to Australian capital Canberra to see the country’s best museums.

      Jervis Bay offers beaches, dolphins and national parks. Heading north, zip through pretty Kiama then Wollongong to the Grand Pacific Drive. South of Sydney are the dramatic cliffs of Royal National Park.

      Welcome to Sydney. Tour the Opera House, catch a harbour ferry and dunk yourself in the Bondi Beach waves. Leave time for the awe-inspiring Blue Mountains.

      Itineraries

      South Queensland Coast

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      5 DAYS

      Check out Queensland’s big smoke, and the sun-baked Gold and Sunshine Coasts.

      Semitropical Brisbane is dappled with brilliant bars, cafes and bookshops. Don’t miss the Gallery of Modern Art and neighbouring Queensland Art Gallery on the South Bank riverfront. The neighbourhoods here are a characterful patchwork: check out raffish West End, ever-changing Fortitude Valley, and side-by-side Teneriffe and Newstead with their emerging crop of hip eateries, breweries and live-music venues.

      An hour south, the Gold Coast exhibits the flip side of Queensland’s soul: beachy, brassy and boozy. The hub is Surfers Paradise, with its after-dark sexiness and theme parks. More relaxed and surf-centric are Burleigh Heads just to the south, and Coolangatta on the NSW border.

      Tack on a few days roaming the beaches on North Stradbroke Island in Moreton Bay. Otherwise, truck north to the Sunshine Coast towns of up-and-coming Caloundra and vibrant Maroochydore. Another half-hour north is Noosa, a classy resort town with sublime beaches, a lush national park and a string of top-flight restaurants.

      Itineraries

      Hervey Bay to Cairns

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      12 DAYS

      Track north along the central section of Queensland’s eastern seaboard, with islands to visit en route.

      Two hours north of Noosa is amiable Hervey Bay, from where you can explore the huge dunes and crystalline lakes on Fraser Island. Not far north, sip Australia’s favourite rum in Bundaberg.

      Sample Queensland’s coral wonders at Lady Musgrave Island or Lady Elliot Island, then devour a steak at ‘beef city’ Rockhampton. Offshore, unwind for a few days on the trails and beaches on Great Keppel Island.

      Spot a platypus in peaceful Eungella National Park then wheel into buzzy Airlie Beach, gateway to the azure waters and powdery white-sand beaches of the Whitsunday Islands – sail, dive, snorkel, relax at a resort or camp on an uninhabited atoll.

      Townsville is next with a hip eating and drinking scene. Don’t miss hiking the Thorsborne Trail on magnificent Hinchinbrook Island. Recover at Mission Beach, where the rainforest meets the sea. End your epic road trip in touristy Cairns with a trip to the Great Barrier Reef and a seafood feast.

      Plan Your Trip

      Your Reef Trip

      The Great Barrier Reef, stretching over 2000km from just south of the Tropic of Capricorn (near Gladstone) to just south of Papua New Guinea, is the most extensive reef system in the world. There are numerous ways to experience this magnificent spectacle. Diving and snorkelling are the best methods of getting close to the menagerie of marine life and dazzling corals, but you can also surround yourself with fabulous tropical fish without getting wet on a semi-submersible or a glass-bottom boat, or see the macro perspective on a scenic flight.

      Best for...

      Wildlife

      Viewing sea turtles around Lady Elliot Island or Heron Island.

      Looking for reef sharks and rays while kayaking off Green Island.

      Spotting wild koalas on Magnetic Island.

      Snorkelling

      Getting underwater at Knuckle, Hardy and Fitzroy Reefs.

      Enjoying the offshore delights at Magnetic Island or the Whitsunday Islands.

      Views from Above

      Taking scenic chopper or plane rides from Cairns or the Whitsunday Islands.

      Skydiving over Airlie Beach.

      Sailing

      Sailing from Airlie Beach through the Whitsunday Islands.

      Exploring Agincourt Reef from Port Douglas.

      When to Go

      High season on the reef is from June to December. The best overall underwater visibility is from August to January.

      From December to March, northern Queensland (north of Townsville) has its wet season,

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