The Complete Manual of Sewing: 120 Visual Lessons for Beginners

GETTING EQUIPPED

ORGANIZING

YOUR WORK SPACE

SEWING TAKES TIME AND SPACE AND IS RARELY FINISHED IN ONE SESSION. IN ORDER TO SAVE TIME AND BE EFFICIENT, IT IS IMPORTANT TO SET UP A DEDICATED SEWING STATION.

SET UP

Having a dedicated sewing area is ideal, whether it’s a separate room— the best option—or a table in the corner of your living room. This is handy in case you need to leave your project and come back to it later without constantly moving your sewing supplies back and forth. Use a table that is large enough to cut fabric easily. It should be at least 40˝ (1.1 m). Make sure you have enough light by sewing near a window or having a good lamp.

FABRICS

Over time, you will build up an excellent fabric collection. Wash new fabrics as soon as you buy them, so they are ready to use as soon as a new project comes up. Store your fabrics rolled instead of folden on shelves. The fabrics will take up less space and will be easier to grab. If you are super organized, you can label them with the fabric type and length. Remember to store your fabrics away from direct sunlight as the colors will fade quickly.

PATTERNS

Create a storage system for your patterns. Stack them on a shelf so they’re within easy reach, or put them in plastic boxes to keep them from collecting dust.

TOOLS AND NOTIONS

All of your sewing tools and notions should be easily accessible. Store them in separate boxes. Put your marking and cutting tools in a dedicated drawer or small container. Also, provide storage for your threads and bobbins.

Some Rules to Keep in Mind

Set up a large enough table to work comfortably at with all your materials.

Make sure you have good lighting.

Read the instructions in full before you start and follow the recommended order.

Remember to wash your hands regularly to avoid soiling the thread or fabric.

In sewing, as in all crafts, mastery comes with experience. To sew well, take the time to practice. Avoid setting the bar too high. Start with simple sewing patterns. If you are only comfortable with straight stitching, start with projects that can be made using the straight stitch.

GETTING EQUIPPED

GETTING

THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT

BEFORE YOU GET STARTED, YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS. SOME TOOLS ARE CRUCIAL, WHILE THE OTHERS ARE HANDY TO HAVE, IF NEEDED. YOU CAN EASILY FIND THESE IN SEWING AND CRAFT STORES OR ON THE INTERNET.

MEASURING TOOLS

To ensure that a piece of clothing fits correctly, it is essential to measure and take dimensions with quality tools. This will help you know what to cut and how much fabric is needed. There are several tools for different purposes.

A 20˝ (50cm) or longer flat ruler: To draw straight lines when copying a pattern.

A 90° ruler: To make sure you can draw right angles.

A tape measure: A tape measure is used to measure a pattern’s curves and take measurements. The standard length is at least 60˝ (150cm) long. If you are working with significant amounts of fabric, use a longer tape measure. If possible, buy one with the same width as the standard seam allowance. Choose a plastic tape measure because it keeps its shape.

Sewing gauge: This small metal or plastic ruler has standard graduations: ¼˝, ⅜˝, ½˝, ⅝˝, ¾˝, 1˝, 1⅛˝, 1¼˝, 1⅜˝. It is convenient for measuring, transferring small dimensions, and hemming. Some are heat-resistant and can be ironed.

Sewing gauge with sliding marker: This small ruler has a window in the center to move a sliding marker, which can shift to a precise measurement. It helps mark seam allowances and hems, but you can also use it to mark the position of buttons, clips, and more.

Quilting ruler: This transparent ruler is squared vertically and horizontally. It has grid lines that make it helpful to add seam allowances, draw hems, or check right angles. It is widely used for patchwork.

The curved ruler or French curve: A French curve is a curved ruler that imitates the body’s curves and is used to draw or modify patterns.

MARKING TOOLS

Whether you are sewing by hand or stitching with a machine, you can use different tools to mark on both paper and fabric.

ON PAPER

It is customary in sewing to not cut the pattern, but to trace it on another piece of paper. This keeps the original pattern intact. To do this you will need a pencil, an eraser, and pattern paper.

THERE ARE SEVERAL TYPES OF PATTERN MATERIAL.

Choose your preferred material according to your needs:

Tissue paper is very fragile. One side is smooth and shiny, and the other is matte. The smooth side is placed on the pattern.

Pattern paper simplifies copying, but may tear easily when it is handled.

Lightweight white kraft paper is a good compromise between transparency and strength.

Template plastic is solid, but difficult to cut and does not show well on fabrics when cutting.

Swedish tracing paper (which is not Swedish) is a soft and translucent paper that is more robust than tissue paper. This paper is flexible enough to be molded around the body, allowing you to make adjustments and avoid stiff muslins.

Carbon paper is covered with colored wax on one side, it is placed between the fabric and the pattern with the wax side facing the fabric. Use a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern lines. There are several colors of carbon paper available. Choose the color that works best for your fabric.

TYPES OF PAPER FOR TRACING PATTERNS

CUTTING TOOLS

Sewing often involves cutting paper, fabrics, and threads. This means that you need several pairs of scissors just for sewing.

ON THE FABRIC

Once the pattern has been copied onto the paper, it may be traced onto the fabric with all the marks. You can choose between several tools for this:

Tailor’s chalk: This is the traditional material for marking fabric. It comes in various colors—yellow or white for dark fabrics, red or blue for light fabrics—and multiple shapes. Trim the edges or tip of the chalk well.

Powdered chalk: This is a small box or pen containing white or colored powdered chalk. Place the applicator on the desired spot, and the powder will come out. This allows you to make fine, precise lines.

Chalk pencils: These mark the fabric like tailor’s chalk and powdered chalk but don’t need sharpening.

Water-, air-, and heat- erasable fabric pens: It is best to test these pens on a piece of cloth to ensure that the ink is sufficiently visible and, above all, that it erases well, some pens disappear under heat, some when washed.

A tracing wheel is used with carbon paper. There are two types: The smooth pattern roller allows you to trace continuously, while the notched roller allows you to trace in the form of marking points.

You can also use a small piece of dry soap. It marks perfectly on the fabric.

Paper scissors: These are essential for cutting patterns. Using fabric scissors on paper causes micro-abrasions on the blades, invisible to the naked eye, that damage your fabrics when you cut them.

Fabric scissors: Sometimes called tailor’s scissors, shears, or sewing scissors, these are one of the most important tools in your sewing kit! The main thing to remember is to use your fabric-cutting scissors only for that activity. Equipped with pointed tips, they should be long enough to have a good range and cut accurately and cleanly— usually between 8˝ and 10˝ (20 and 25cm) for adults. The longer the blades, the heavier the scissors. So, it’s best to find the right compromise between size and weight. Note that if you regularly cut thick fabrics (denim, wool, and more), you may want to consider larger scissors 10˝ to 11˝ (25 to 27cm).

In terms of materials, we advise you to use stainless steel for durability.

Scissors must also fit your hand: You can try on scissors, just like gloves! You need to be comfortable when cutting and your scissors should allow you to have a good grip for precise cutting. Therefore, choose ergonomic handles, and be aware that right-handed and left-handed scissors are available.

Don’t hesitate to invest in a pair of good scissors: They will last for years if they’re maintained. And above all, put them in a safe place to prevent them from falling or being used for another purpose.

LOOKING AFTER YOUR SCISSORS

Essential maintenance advice includes giving your scissors a specific role: This is the basic rule to ensure their usefulness over time. Beyond that, they require some regular maintenance. First, regularly wipe the blades with a soft cloth to remove dust and cutting residue that will inevitably accumulate, opening the blades as wide as possible to reach the smallest nooks and crannies. You can invest in a sharpener, available in some craft stores, to keep them sharp.

You can also use a piece of aluminum foil to sharpen the blades. Fold the foil into quarters and cut it into strips using the entire length of the blades. Then wipe your scissors with a soft cloth soaked in warm water. This does not prevent you from calling in a professional from time to time to sharpen your scissors. You can ask your local craft or fabric store, which likely has its scissors professionally sharpened.

Finally, as soon as you feel that the scissors are sticking a little when you cut, put a small drop of machine oil on the central screw to lubricate the base of the blades. Then wipe your scissors with a soft cloth to remove any oil residue that might stain your fabrics.

Embroidery scissors: These small 3½˝ to 4½˝ (9 to 11cm) sharp scissors have a fine and very pointed blade for cutting threads or making notches in your fabric.

A thread cutter: As the name suggests, it is used to cut thread quickly and precisely.

A seam ripper: This is so essential—even for experienced sewists—that it is often included in the basic accessories supplied with a sewing machine. As the name suggests, it is used to quickly unstitch mistakes thanks to its small, sharp point, which is slipped under the thread of the seam to be removed and cut by pulling upwards. It is a much more precise tool than the tip of a scissor because it is much smaller. Don’t be fooled, however: It requires meticulousness and precision to use—so don’t go too fast—because while it cuts threads very well, it can also cut the fabric very well. Therefore, you must take your time—even if you rename it slow seam ripper—and make sure you only take the thread to be cut, not a thread from the fabric. It is also used to open buttonholes. You cannot sharpen this tool. When it becomes dull, throw it away!

OTHER CUTTING TOOLS

• ROTARY CUTTER

It can save time for simple cuts (squares or rectangles). The rotary cutter is less precise and flexible than scissors for curved shapes. It also requires a self-healing cutting mat and an acrylic or metal ruler. Perfectly suited to quilting, this tool can also be considered an accessory for garment sewing.

• PINKING SHEARS

Their saw-toothed blades allow them to notch fabric. They reduce the risk of fraying.

SEWING NOTIONS

NEEDLES

Despite their small size, needles are a very important part of sewing. They are chosen to match the fabric and thread used. The lighter and finer the fabric, the finer the needle must be to avoid breaking the fibers. There are two main categories of needles:

HAND SEWING NEEDLES

There are several types of needles for hand sewing. A number indicates their size: The larger the number, the finer and smaller the needle.

Sharps (or general purpose needles): These are the most common needles. They have a round eye, a pointed tip, and are of medium length. They come in all sizes (sizes 1 to 12). Sizes 7 and 8 are the most common and useful. Buy sets of needles containing several sizes.

Milliners needles: These are very long needles with a round eye. They are ideal for basting, gathering, and overcasting. They are available in sizes 3 to 12.

Ballpoint needles: These needles are used to sew knits by hand. They