Seeking the Scallop Shell

St Kentigern and the Beginnings of Glasgow

The city of Glasgow and its surrounding hinterland of other towns is the largest conurbation in Scotland. With its rich industrial heritage, famous museums and people, it is easy to forget that Glasgow was once a tiny town by the banks of the Molendinar Burn. The importance of the River Clyde and its port was an altogether later trigger for urban and industrial development. Glasgow was probably a village as early as the sixth century, reputedly established by St Kentigern, who is the city’s patron saint. The Glasgow coat of arms reflects this. Many of the symbols represent elements from the life of Kentigern, also known as Mungo. How authentic the stories are is, however, hard to know.

What we do know of Kentigern is little indeed. The only certain fact is his date of death, in ad 617. Other supposed facts about his life are probably apocryphal, although his upbringing in the lovely Fife village of Culross may be true. The possibility that he was of noble birth is also not dismissed out of hand. Certainly, Culross, on the Forth Estuary, has a long ecclesiastic history; it was the residence of St Serf, who is reputed to have run a school for boys here. So it is possible that Kentigern was raised and protected there by St Serf. Kentigern, however, was destined to leave the village’s safety and seclusion, and as a young adult we know he wandered around the country in what we now call Scotland’s central belt. He eventually came to rest at the spot by the Molendinar Burn, and here he stayed. This was part of the large and powerful Kingdom of Strathclyde, its base being Dumbarton.

Kentigern is reputed to have known and been friends with the King. It was here he stayed, preaching, baptising and attracting people to him, so that this area grew, developed and eventually became the city of Glasgow. A church grew and Kentigern became bishop of this huge area. His reputation and following was so great that he eventually built a cathedral on this spot. The current cathedral stands in this same place. There has been some debate, though, since no artefacts or remains from Kentigern’s time have been found here, and some historians have considered an ancient ecclesiastic site in Govan as Kentigern’s initial base. Whether or not this is true, the cathedral must at some point have moved to its current position. The church and bishopric begun by Kentigern grew and prospered and became Glasgow Cathedral.

So Malc and I went in search of St Kentigern. It was an easy journey for us: only one hour by train from Lockerbie, a journey undertaken every day by many commuters. It was a nondescript, grey, chilly day, but dry, and our walk from the railway station to the cathedral was unhurried. Being a cathedral, we had anticipated a fairly short walk. We followed the signs and carried on walking until we felt that we had either missed it or taken the wrong road. It seemed to be an awfully long way. We had left the city throngs behind us, passed the university, and we were still onward travellers.

This can’t be right, I said to Malc as we stopped and tried to get our bearings. We must have come too far. Perhaps we should turn back. What do you think, Malc?

I don’t know. You’re right though it doesn’t seem right, but we followed all the signs. Shall I ask someone?

Go on, then, I agreed, feeling a little foolish, not being able to find such a prominent city landmark.

Excuse me, Malc said politely as he approached what looked like a student. We’re looking for the cathedral. Are we near it?

Aye came the reply. Just carry on to the bottom of this street and you can’t miss it.

Thank you, we both said.

We carried on, and in a couple of hundred yards there it was.

Glasgow Cathedral is a rare Scottish survivor from pre-Reformation times, and what luck that it wasn’t destroyed! It is old and beautiful. It is a wonderful place to visit if only because, unlike England, Scotland has few remaining cathedrals and these are in name only. The Scottish Reformation, opposed to pomp and with its dislike of bishops and Church hierarchy, led the movement for change. Presbyterianism, with its flat structure, control from the centre moving to local people, became the official creed of the Church of Scotland. Cathedrals with their inherent bishoprics ceased to exist. Glasgow’s cathedral only survived because it was divided into three separate worship areas and allocated to the Church of Scotland congregations. It still serves a Church of Scotland congregation today, but as one, not three. The fabric of the church is cared for by Historic Scotland. There is nothing remaining of Kentigern’s church, the current cathedral having been mostly built in the thirteenth century, and it is recognised as a fine example of this period, with wonderful Gothic detail. Yet Kentigern does have a presence here still, for his tomb lies in the crypt.

This is an older part of the church, with parts dating back to the 1100s. There is some beautiful ribbed vaulting here, and the area around the tomb appears to have a layout which emphasises it, yet also encloses it as if to protect the precious relics within. In general, it is a simple unostentatious but quiet and reverent place in which to remember Glasgow’s special saint.

Before entering the cathedral one thing struck me as strange, remembering our long walk to get there. The cathedral today stands outside and beyond what would be regarded as the heart of Glasgow. Having visited many cathedrals, they always seem to be an integral part of the city in which they stand, also contributing wholeheartedly to the city’s identity and character. Even when not absolutely in the middle of the city, sometimes becoming a little off-centre as the city develops and grows, cathedrals nevertheless generally still remain part of the city, recognised and used by residents and visitors alike. At Carlisle Cathedral, where we worship, people use the cathedral close as a summer picnic spot, a walk-through as a shortcut to other streets, a sitting and relaxing space. It belongs to its people. Glasgow doesn’t follow this pattern. A large city, which has changed and spread, Glasgow’s heartland lies elsewhere. Whilst the cathedral is old, beautiful and majestic, it also seems forlorn and almost abandoned in its own city. There is no sense of it being integral to Glasgow’s heritage and certainly not to the modern city. The area in which it stands has been upgraded and is pleasant and attractive, including its close neighbour, which is the city’s oldest building. But it has lost something. Its meaning? Its identity? Clearly it is a wonderful survivor, with beautiful architecture and a vibrant history, but to me it seemed to stand more as a memorial rather than as a living, breathing testament in its relationship to the city, though it owes its existence to a man centuries ago who came here, stayed and spawned a city.

Yet there was a time, of course, when this church was a magnet for pilgrims coming to honour and worship at St Kentigern’s shrine. Surprisingly, the shrine was not located in the crypt, by his tomb. Rather a separate shrine was established within the body of the church, especially to accommodate pilgrims. We know that this shrine existed in 1301 because King Edward I of England visited and paid homage at both the shrine and his tomb. Although a shrine by his tomb would have been the most logical thing, it was felt that it would have been difficult to make it pilgrim-friendly. A very elaborate shrine was therefore built up on the floor of the nave. It would appear to have been elaborate – a stone base and a golden vaulted roof. It was built in what is termed a feretory, this being a shrine chapel – a space specially set aside with aisles and decorative screens, a place where pilgrims could rest, pray and worship in front of the shrine in relative privacy from the rest of the church. In reality, this privacy was illusory, so many pilgrims queued outside the area, creating an atmosphere of great excitement and anticipation, perhaps a little agitated, wanting to move along so they could enter. What happened to the shrine and when isn’t known, but, like so many others, it has been destroyed and lost to history.

Some questions occurred to me. If Kentigern’s remains were in the tomb in the crypt, what was in the shrine? If there were relics, what and whose were they? If none, did the pilgrims know they were worshipping at an empty shrine? Did they accept that this only represented Kentigern, but still believed that his presence could be discerned here? At a time of fervent faith, belief could and did accept many things. God was everywhere. His saints, who represented Him, could in many miraculous ways be present wherever they were needed.

During our visit, a choir was practising for a performance. There seemed to be many activities indicating a lively church, but there were no pilgrims other than Malc and me. It was hard to imagine the hordes of people who once came here. We are used to churches being quiet places, but in those medieval times Glasgow Cathedral was busy, noisy, overflowing with faith and deep gratitude towards Kentigern, the man of great faith and the founder of what would become a great city.

By now it was time for a cup of tea. We left and walked back towards the city centre and found ourselves in Sauchiehall Street and the Willow Tea Rooms. These were the creation of another famous Scot, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, whose characteristic architectural style is now world-famous. His flowing and also stylised art nouveau patterns are unmistakable. The Willow Tea Rooms were designed by him, and now on partaking of a cup of tea it is possible to look at and admire his designs, from chairs to windows. It is as fresh and authentic as it was when it was first done. Many people think his work was vast, but the opposite is true. He was not overly popular at the time. His designs were striking, unusual and unique, and it was only forward-thinkers who were able to appreciate what he was doing. He received few commissions. The famous Glasgow School of Art, designed by him, now acclaimed and sadly recently burned down, was hated by many, and Mackintosh was not even invited to the official opening. Of his few admirers, we must be grateful to the owner of Hillhouse in Helensburgh, a town along the Clyde Estuary, who commissioned the whole house to be designed inside by Charles Rennie Mackintosh. The owner of Hillhouse was the owner of Blackie’s, a publisher, and he was rich. Over time he could have altered his house as styles changed. He didn’t. Hillhouse is a time capsule dedicated to the memory and talent of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, and it is a fortunate survivor, allowing us to enjoy seeing it today as it was in the original untouched style.

He may not have been successful in his time, but today he is an international style icon.

Kentigern was a popular worshipped and revered man and saint for hundreds of years during the Middle Ages, and yet now he is a distant memory. Whilst people know of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, who now really reveres St Kentigern? But, then, he did live a long time ago. Yet Glaswegians remember that without beloved Kentigern there might never have been a Glasgow!

St Kentigern in Cumbria

Caldbeck in North Cumbria is most famous as the village of John Peel, the local huntsman immortalised in the famous ‘D’ye ken John Peel with his coat so grey?’ Yet in this lovely village there are far more ancient traditions, and Malc and I had come to the parish church not to find John Peel’s grave in the churchyard, but to find St Kentigern, who stayed and preached here. The church, named after him, was built somewhat later than the sixth century, having a beginning in the twelfth. It is almost certain, however, that some earlier church, probably of wood, was built as early as the 600s.

We met Kentigern previously in Glasgow. It was on a journey south that he stayed here before moving on to other places, both in Cumbria and possibly as far south as Wales, after which he returned to Glasgow.

Caldbeck today is still a small, quiet and beautiful village, unspoilt and still relatively untouched by modern development. Today’s peaceful scene, however, belies its history of mills and breweries. The Cald Beck, which runs through the village along with other smaller tributaries, was perfect for the local watermill. It can be a busy place for visitors, but on a cool autumn day, the earlier sun and blue sky having retreated into dark clouds, we were virtually the only visitors. We strolled down quiet lanes and over bridges, the beck below bubbling and gurgling along its course. What remained of autumn colour was lovely, but most leaves had fallen. It still allowed for an autumn walk with dry fallen leaves crunching under our feet.

This is the Lake District, or at least it is the Lake District National Park. Yet vast tracts of the park are barely trodden compared to the major centres around Keswick and Windermere.

We walked through the church gates following a long straight path through the churchyard up to the church, one which is open every day when so many are permanently locked. There were yew trees here, one with masses of scarlet berries. We also walked in between two shaped yew trees standing proudly beside the path. Yew is often called the churchyard tree, where they are still often seen today. For thousands of years it has been regarded as a sacred tree, for pagan Celts and later Christians too. It is an extremely long-lived tree, evergreen, representing everlasting life, and is a ‘tree of protection’.

I remember some years ago Malc and I were on holiday in Perthshire. We had treated ourselves to a Highland off-road safari run by a company based in Dull. The safari itself was advertised as ‘Dull Highland Tours’. No, not a joke – look it up yourself. It is still operating! In fact, making the most of its name, the village has recently been twinned with the town called Boring in Australia and another called Bland in the USA!

Anyway, close to Dull is a famous tree, the Fortingall Yew, and it is quite astounding. It is reckoned to be the oldest tree in Britain, the rest of Europe and possibly the world, at 5,000 years old. It is hard to imagine that before Jesus was born, before the Romans conquered the known world, even before men in Britain forged iron, this tree was already growing in Perthshire’s remote hills. When we visited, its trunk, though supported, was clearly still alive. There again, we would certainly need support at 5,000 years old!

Now back to Caldbeck Church. The beauty inside testifies to its age and I was particularly interested in a stained-glass window dedicated to both St Kentigern and St Cuthbert, with lovely authentic impressions of both. I found it surprising that everywhere I went on my visits the same people and saints crop up. It seems that Cuthbert too came here, but it is understandable on realising that this area was part of the great Anglian Northumberland kingdom. Whether King Oswald was with him isn’t known.

What I had really come to Caldbeck to see was St Kentigern’s Well. The Cald Beck runs right behind the church, and we took the footpath over the ancient packhorse bridge in the oldest part of the village. The well, which we thought was by this river, wasn’t immediately visible, but by looking from the bridge up and down the riverbanks we saw it. There were a few shallow steps down from the riverside path, at the bottom of which was the well. Modest, and almost hidden by undergrowth, nevertheless its size does not reflect its importance in respect of early Christian history.

Across Britain there are still many healing wells, many in almost forgotten remote spots, where the water was recognised as possessing special healing properties. Often this was because certain mineral elements were contained in the water. Over time, spas were developed, and Bath, Buxton and Leamington Spa were amongst many others where it became the place to be. Flourishing purely because of this special water, harnessed from local springs, these new fashionable places attracted gentry in their droves.

Holy wells, of which again there used to be many, were slightly different. Yes, these too were believed to have healing qualities, but it was not because of the water itself (though there were often special properties in it). Rather, its specialness was because it had been endowed with the power of a saint. St Kentigern’s Well is purportedly where he preached and then used the well water to baptise. This was still a predominantly pagan area, but Kentigern attracted crowds of people, who came to listen to him and went on to adopt the Christian faith and become baptised members of it. Its association with Kentigern remained long after he left the area. People continued to recognise the well’s special powers, so it continued as a well of healing and Christian faith.

We walked down the few short steps and found the small well still clearly delineated by a shallowish rectangular stone bath. The water it contained was clear and could be seen bubbling up from a small underground spring. Dipping our hands into the water we found it cool, but not freezing cold as we would have expected on such a day.

It was time for the usual refreshments. We were the only customers in the Old Smithy Café and Ice-Cream Parlour, complete with an old anvil, which reminded us of the Gretna ‘blacksmith weddings’. Malc fancied an ice cream, but declined on such a cold day. The owner told us the ice cream was made on the premises, the milk provided by village cows. We were particularly interested in a variety called ‘Dairy Longhorn’.

Is it really quiet at the moment? I asked her, looking round at all the empty tables.

More like dead, she answered. No one seems to be coming in.

I could understand, as we noticed how deserted the village had been. I felt quite sorry for her, so asked her a bit about their ice cream. We promised to come back on a warm day and try some, and we will.

You won’t be disappointed, she emphasised as we left to go back to our car for the drive home.

It was getting dark and quite chilly, and we were glad of the warm car and the thought of home. We also talked about the Dairy Longhorn.

You don’t suppose they actually add the longhorn to it, do you? I asked Malc.

Passing Gretna Green reminded me of John Peel.

Did you know John Peel was married over the anvil at Gretna Green? I asked Malc.

I had heard that.

There were lots of other well-known people who married there, eloping in order to marry the person of