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    The 100 Greatest Climbing and Mountaineering Books
    The 100 Greatest Climbing and Mountaineering Books
    The 100 Greatest Climbing and Mountaineering Books
    Ebook171 pages22 minutes

    The 100 Greatest Climbing and Mountaineering Books

    By Jon Barton

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    About this ebook

    Here is a list.
    It contains 100 climbing and mountaineering books.
    Some are brilliant; some are not.
    Some have won awards; some of them should have.
    Some of them are only a year or two old; some were written over 100 years ago.
    One of these books might make your top five; one of them might be the worst climbing book you've ever read – if you even finished it.
    Most of the big names are here – Harrer, Simpson, McDonald, Roberts, Krakauer, Bonatti, Kirkpatrick, Moffat (and Moffatt) – and some not-so-big names.
    Have a read, see what you think. And remember: it's just a list.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherVertebrate Digital
    Release dateJul 2, 2020
    ISBN9781839810299
    The 100 Greatest Climbing and Mountaineering Books
    Author

    Jon Barton

    Jon Barton authored Vertebrate Publishing’s original MTB guidebook Dark Peak Mountain Biking in 2004 and has gone on to author numerous other guidebooks, including White Peak Mountain Biking and Peak District Bouldering. When not running Vertebrate Publishing from its Sheffield offices, Jon can be found mountain biking, running or rock climbing out in the Peak.

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      Book preview

      The 100 Greatest Climbing and Mountaineering Books - Jon Barton

      Contents

      Introduction

      The Methodology

      Female Writers and Protagonists

      Modern Classics

      The Greatest Writers

      Tourists

      The Collector’s Choice

      The Greatest Prize

      The Future of Mountaineering Writing

      What’s In and What’s Not

      Who Didn’t Make the List?

      Have Your Say

      The Books

      Jack Roberts on the Ruth Glacier, 1978. © Simon McCartney.

      Introduction

      Here is a list.

      It contains 100 climbing and mountaineering books – something for you to idly think about while you’re lashed to a belay stance. You might be thinking that it’s a list of the greatest mountaineering books of all time ranked from 100 to one. It certainly isn’t. Just as the pitch stretching ahead of you isn’t the best climb in the world, or the hardest or the easiest. It’s just a climb, and similarly here are some good books. You should read a few of them. Once you’ve reached the top of the climb, that is.

      I would like to tell you that I’ve read them all. I haven’t. I wish I could tell you I agree with the order. I don’t. And I would like to tell you that my favourite five books of all time are on the list. Three of them aren’t.

      But it is a list, and as a genre of predominantly non-fiction, there are a few shockingly brilliant, possibly far-fetched books buried inside it.

      The Methodology

      The simple aim was to generate a list of the world’s favourite mountaineering books. The basic rationale was this: if a book received a ‘mention’ then that equalled a ‘vote’. No one mention was weighted above another – the book with the most votes got first, and so on. The following mention-gathering criteria was employed.

      A competition win equalled one vote; shortlisting and special mentions also qualified for one vote. If a book was adapted into a movie – one vote. If a book received more than twenty 5-star reviews on amazon.com, one vote; and amazon.co.uk, also one vote. If a book made someone else’s list, if it appeared on Goodreads, if it made the top fifty title searches on Google, and so on – all accounted for another vote.

      Then, to start refining the list, I asked scores of climbers – as international as my address book would allow – to

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