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    Mid-century Woodworking: 80 projects to make by hand
    Mid-century Woodworking: 80 projects to make by hand
    Mid-century Woodworking: 80 projects to make by hand
    Ebook409 pages3 hours

    Mid-century Woodworking: 80 projects to make by hand

    By A.W.P. Kettless

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    About this ebook

    Make your own beautiful mid-century wooden objects for the home.
    With over 80 projects, from the simple to the advanced, this is the perfect book to progress your woodworking skills and create something beautiful for your home. These sought-after classic designs from the 1950s and 60s include a range of items for home and garden, simple display shelves, bookends and a tray to a chest of drawers and a desk. 
    Every project includes a clear pattern and diagrams, detailed step-by-step instructions and  illustrations of the finished pieces. The projects are arranged by level of difficulty as you go through the book; some suit those fairly new to woodworking and some work best for more experienced hands. Packed with useful tips and hints, and featuring spotlights on individual techniques within every chapter, this book is perfect not just as a project book but as a way to build up your knowledge. No complicated equipment is needed and all projects can be made at home. 
    So whether you want the iconic curves of a mid-century coffee table, the warmth of walnut wood in a cabinet or the clean lines in an easy chair, this book has it all.  
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherBatsford
    Release dateAug 10, 2023
    ISBN9781849948883
    Mid-century Woodworking: 80 projects to make by hand
    Author

    A.W.P. Kettless

    A.W.P. Kettless was a carpenter, joiner and exhibiting artist and was the author of several books including Modern Woodwork, Decorative Woodwork and Designs for Wood. He lived in Suffolk and died in 2006.

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      Book preview

      Mid-century Woodworking - A.W.P. Kettless

      Pencil Holder

      Illustration

      This gives practice in planing, use of testing and marking out tools, sawing, chiselling, and the boring of holes to a given depth; making and using a thumb gauge; working of a simple chamfer. It encourages an appreciation of the properties of wood and the problems involved in its working, and aids familiarity with important and fundamental terms such as face side and face edge.

      Illustration

      Method

      1 Planing face side. Select best side of material, and plane flat, using a jack plane for this operation. Make frequent tests with a straight edge and parallel or winding strips. Apply face side mark when true.

      2 Select best edge, place wood in vice and plane edges square with face side. Make frequent tests with straight edge and try square, apply face edge mark when true.

      3 Gauging width: set marking gauge to 40mm (1½in) and gauge the width from the face edge. Remove waste with jack plane.

      4 Gauging thickness: set marking gauge to thickness 20mm (¾in) and gauge the thickness all round from the face side. Remove the waste with jack plane. A sharp pencil run down the gauge line often makes it easier to see.

      5 Marking out: using a marking knife and try square, mark out length of stand leaving about 13mm (½in) waste at each end. The diagram shows method of marking out and finding centres of holes. With brace and an 8mm (₅⁄₁₆in) twist bit bore the holes, maintaining the bit in an upright position. Cut material to length. Make thumb gauge and mark out chamfer as shown in isometric view. Work chamfer on sides with a smoothing plane. With a 25mm (1in) chisel and using a shearing action make end chamfers.

      6 Clean up with a smoothing plane.

      7 Finish: white polish, lightly applied with a rag.

      Material

      Selected pine, 300mm × 50mm × 25mm (12in × 2in × 1in).

      These sizes allow for practice in planing techniques.

      Chisel Rack

      Illustration

      This is a further planing, marking out, sawing and grooving exercise; also an introduction to plywood, glue, panel pins and wood finishing, and the use of wood drills and countersink. The rack is designed to hold a 6mm (¼in) sash mortise chisel and 6mm, 13mm, 20mm and 25mm (¼in, ½in, ¾in and 1in) bevelled edge firmer chisels.

      Illustration

      Method

      1 Plane material to dimensions as given in drawing.

      2 Mark out length of rack and position of grooves with a marking knife, and use a pencil on the edges of the work. Gauge depth of grooves marking only the spaces to be removed. With thumb gauge and pencil mark the chamfers.

      3 Cut grooves with dovetail saw, making sure the saw kerf is in the waste, and stops at the gauge line. Place work in vice and remove waste, making the bottom of the grooves flat and taking care not to chisel below the line.

      4 Work chamfers as in previous job.

      5 Mark out plywood back and cut to size with a dovetail saw. Plane the edges with a smoothing plane, shape corners with coping saw and finish with a wood file. Drill and countersink for holes as shown. Using a cork rubber and a piece of No 1½ glasspaper clean up plywood back. Clean up rack with smoothing plane.

      6 Carefully apply glue to back and rack, and fix with eight 16mm (₅⁄₈in) panel pins. Clean off surplus glue with a clean damp cloth. When dry, glasspaper lightly.

      7 Finish: brush on a thin coat of white polish.

      Material

      Selected pine, 250mm × 50mm × 25mm (10in × 2in × 1in),

      plywood, 290mm × 63mm × 4mm (11½in × 2½in × ³⁄₁₆in).

      Spade Cleaner

      Illustration

      This article will give further practice in planing techniques, marking out, boring holes, and an introduction to horizontal and vertical paring.

      Illustration

      Method

      1 Plane material to width and thickness as given in drawing.

      2 Mark out length with marking knife and using, preferably, an ‘H’ pencil mark out on the face side all the lines and centres as shown in the plan. Mark edge as shown in the elevation, thus completing the marking out except for the 4mm (³⁄₁₆in) at bevelled end. This is marked out with thumb gauge after sawing off to cut line.

      3 Place width of material in the vice, and using a large chisel with a shearing action, make the end bevel.

      4 Place the thickness of the material in the vice, and make a saw kerf nearly 10mm (³⁄₈in) deep to locate the intersecting surfaces (see plan) for horizontal paring: chisel from each side until the bottom of the saw kerf is reached, repeat on the other side.

      5 Bore hole.

      6 Saw off waste at end. Vertical paring: chisel the semicircular end.

      7 Clean up with smoothing plane.

      8 Finish: brush on a thin coat of clear varnish.

      Material

      Selected pine, 200mm × 50mm × 20mm (12in × 2in × ¾in).

      Pen Rest

      Illustration

      This pen rest involves further exercises in planing techniques, marking out, boring of holes, vertical paring. It gives an introduction to the housing joint, and use of the shooting board when planing end grain.

      Illustration

      Method

      1 Prepare material to given sizes.

      2 Using a marking knife set out length of base and position of rests, and gauge 3mm (¹⁄₈in) for depth of housing. A pictorial view of a housing joint is shown on page 23.

      3 Cut grooves keeping saw kerfs in the waste, and remove waste with a 10mm (³⁄₈in) chisel; make bottom of grooves flat and saw base to length.

      4 Chisel quadrant shape at ends and with the aid of a shooting board plane ends to cut lines. Work chamfers, using a flat-bottom spokeshave for shaped ends.

      5 Mark out rests, bore holes and shape ends.

      6 Fit, clean up and assemble rests.

      7 Clean up base and glue rests in position.

      8 Finish: brush one coat of polish. When dry, lightly rub down with fine glasspaper, and wax.

      Material

      Selected pine or abura.

      Plant Stand

      Illustration

      The plant stand gives further practice in planing techniques – including use of the shooting board – sawing, chiselling, use of the round and flat bottom spokeshaves, router, and coping saw. The design incorporates a simple through-housing joint (see pictorial view) and gives an opportunity for accurate marking out and working to given dimensions.

      Illustration

      Method

      1 Prepare material to given sizes.

      2 Mark out ends in pairs, in one length, and cut grooves, finishing to gauge lines with router.

      3 Complete as much as possible of the shaping before separating ends.

      4 Mark out shelf, cut and shoot ends, bevel the sides, and fit shelf. Round the corners as shown in drawing.

      5 Cut plywood edgings to length and shape.

      6 Clean up and chamfer finger grip with round bottom spokeshave and prepare ends, shelf and edging for gluing up.

      7 Fix ply edging to shelf using glue and 16mm (₅⁄₈in) panel pins, punch heads below the surface.

      8 Fix shelf to ends with glue and 25mm (1in) panel pins. Test to ensure that the ends are square with shelf.

      9 Finish: hard gloss paint, to suit colour scheme. Give stand one priming coat, stop up all holes, rub down and finish with hard gloss paint.

      Material

      Selected pine.

      Toast Rack

      Illustration

      This toast rack gives further experience in the use of plywood and its working qualities; also an introduction to the stopped housing joint and the technique of polishing surfaces before gluing up.

      Illustration

      Method

      1 Prepare material.

      2 Mark out base and cut grooves, finish to depth with router.

      3 Mark out divisions and handle, as given in drawing. Use a 20mm (¾in) centre-bit to bore hole in handle. With a dovetail saw carefully cut to size. Finish radius with wood file, and soften all edges with glasspaper.

      4 Fit all parts into position testing for upright.

      5 Bevel and chamfer base and clean up for polishing.

      6 Mask all joints to protect gluing surfaces, and lightly polish base and divisions.

      7 Glue up, taking care to remove surplus glue.

      8 When dry lightly rub down with flour glasspaper, to give a matt finish.

      Material

      Sycamore with mahogany plywood divisions.

      Table Mat Stand

      Illustration

      The making of this stand gives an opportunity for individual design, the development of a sense of proportion and form and the use of new materials and contrasting woods.

      Illustration

      Method

      1 Prepare material.

      2 Mark out base and spokeshave to given shape. For alternative base with 6mm (¼in) radius at corners, remove waste – saw kerf down to a gauge line – with a 25mm (1in) chisel and clean up ends of recess with a 6mm (¼in) scribing gouge.

      3 Cut base to length and bevel ends.

      4 Mark out plywood, using the base to give shape at bottom, cut to shape with coping and dovetail saws. Plane edges and soften with glasspaper wrapped round a cork rubber. Use a flat-bottom spokeshave for shaped top, and a wood file for bottom shaping.

      5 Screw on sides to base and test for alignment. Remove screws, clean up all surfaces, and prepare for polishing, masking all joints as necessary.

      6 Polish base and inner surfaces of sides.

      7 Glue up and replace screws, file to clean flush surface, and complete polishing.

      Material

      Abura or sycamore, with mahogany plywood side pieces.

      Suggested Material

      Plywood or plastic-faced hardboard.

      Letter Rack

      Illustration

      This letter rack gives scope for individual design, and an introduction to the use of the plough.

      Illustration

      Method

      1 Prepare base, and mark out length and position of plough grooves. Note alternative treatment at base – stopped grooves.

      2 To plough grooves, fix base in sash cramp, place in vice, and plough grooves 6mm (¼in) deep, check with divisions for correct size.

      3 Cut plywood divisions to shape, clean up and fit into base.

      4 Work chamfers on base and clean up.

      5 Mask all joints, and complete polishing.

      6 Carefully glue in divisions.

      Material

      Sycamore, 150mm × 70mm × 20mm (6in × 2¾in × ¾in), for base; divisions of 4mm (³⁄₁₆in) plywood to given dimensions or to suit individual requirements.

      Teapot Stand

      Illustration

      The main feature of this teapot stand could well be a decorated or plain tile, with a suitable contrasting wood. It incorporates the angle halving joint, and gives excellent practice in setting out.

      Illustration

      Method

      1 Prepare material.

      2 Set out angle halving joints as shown in drawing, noting position of face side and face edge marks. All the gauging for this joint is done from the face side.

      3 With a dovetail saw cut all the joints, leaving the shoulders until last.

      4 Assemble frame, adjust as necessary, and screw together dry with 13mm (½in or No 4) countersunk screws. Remove screws, apply glue to joints and reassemble.

      5 Flush all joints with smoothing plane. Pin and glue on plywood base.

      6 Flush plywood with edge of frame, and check size with tile.

      7 Work chamfer on moulding, cramp and glue to frame as shown in drawing. Note alternative moulding.

      8 Round the corners with flat-bottom spokeshave.

      9 Clean up job and polish.

      10 Cement or glue tile in place.

      11 Cut out four baize discs 20mm (¾in) diameter and glue to bottom.

      Material

      Selected pine, with sycamore or African walnut moulding.

      Display Shelves

      Illustration

      A useful and simple form of shelving, incorporating the cross halving, tee halving, and mortise-and-tenon joints. It gives further opportunity for practice in setting out, shaping and finishing. It provides an introduction to tenon proportions, use of the mortise gauge and mortise chisel. The shelving could easily be extended in length, width and depth, by increasing the number of shelf supports, and re-positioning as required. It should be fixed to the wall with mirror plates, or screw-through uprights.

      Illustration

      Method

      1 Prepare material to dimensions shown.

      2 Set out for halving joints on back frame and mark out position of mortises to take supports (see diagrams) and set mortise gauge to 8mm (₅⁄₁₆in), gauge mortises in rails and tenons at end of supports.

      3 Cut and fit all halving joints, and cut mortises in rails.

      4 Clean all inner edges of frame, glue the joints, screwing from the back, and flush all surfaces.

      5 Shape supports, fit and glue into position. Test for squareness.

      6 Fit plywood shelves to framing, cut to length, round corners, clean up.

      7 Arrange for two 16mm (₅⁄₈in or No 6) countersunk screws in supports and four 16mm (₅⁄₈in or No 6) countersunk screws along back

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