The Camino Portugues: From Lisbon and Porto to Santiago - Central, Coastal and Spiritual Caminos

ROUTE SUMMARY TABLES

Central Camino

Coastal Camino joining the Central Camino at Valença/Tui

Link routes between the Central and Coastal Caminos

Spiritual Variant (Variante Espiritual)

INTRODUCTION

Starting in Portugal’s capital, Lisbon, and ending in Santiago de Compostela in Spain, the 621km Portuguese Camino – ‘Caminho Português’ in Portuguese and ‘Camino Portugués’ in Spanish – has attracted pilgrims for many centuries. Count Henrique and Dona Teresa, the parents of Portugal’s first king, visited the Apostle’s tomb in 1097 (they later ordered an inn to be built for ‘pilgrims, the poor and the sick’ in Albergaria-a-Velha on the Central Camino); Queen (later Saint) Isabel undertook the journey in 1325 and 1335; while Jérôme Münzer (1494, a doctor from Nuremberg) and Giovanni Battista Confalonieri (1594, an Italian priest) wrote accounts so detailed that modern-day hikers will recognise shared experiences. There have been countless other voyagers, both the faithful and the intrepid, across the years.

The Camino follows Roman roads and crosses ancient bridges; it passes through villages, farmland and forests (and provides memorable Atlantic views on the Coastal Camino). Along the way there are four sites that are now designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites – Tomar’s magnificent Knights Templar castle, Coimbra University (one of Europe’s oldest), and the old towns of Porto and Santiago. Conímbriga Roman site with its exceptional mosaics is also a must-see. Walkers with time to spare might take a scenic river cruise down the Douro in Porto before continuing north and into the Minho region. There’s a wonderful albergue (hostel) in Ponte de Lima, Portugal’s oldest village, and before leaving Portugal there’s a chance to marvel at Valença’s ancient fort with panoramic views of medieval Tui over the River Minho in Spain.

The Coastal Camino passes through historic shipbuilding and fishing ports, important during Portugal’s ‘Age of Discoveries’. On this route, hikers can enjoy fresh seafood and experience an Atlantic sunset from Mt Santa Luzia above Viana do Castelo, one of the best views of the Camino.

On the approach to Santiago, many people visit the Roman altar stone believed to be that which the boat carrying the body of St James moored up against in Padrón. Then it’s a case of catching your breath and reflecting on your journey as you enter the old town of Santiago de Compostela, finishing at the steps of the magnificent cathedral in Praza do Obradoiro.

The list of cultural highlights is extensive, but often it’s encounters with other people that make the longest-lasting memories; the Portuguese are friendly, genuine and kind-hearted – so don’t be surprised if you’re invited for coffee and a pastel de nata (sweet pastry) soon after being introduced!

St James and the beginnings of Santiago de Compostela

Painting of St James on the ceiling of Igreja de Santiago, Castelo do Neiva (Coastal Camino Stage 3)

St James the Great (Sant Iago), son of Zebedee and Salome, brother of John was a fisherman and disciple of Jesus. He is believed to have left Jerusalem to preach in the Iberian Peninsula but after returning to the Holy Land was murdered by King Herod Agrippa in

AD

44. His disciples brought his body back to Spain by boat, landing at Iria Flavia (present-day Padrón), near where he had preached. His body was then transported by ox and cart and buried on Mt Libredón.

In the ninth century (believed to be around 813–820) a hermit named Pelayo discovered the tomb by following stars shining down on a field. He notified Teodomiro, the Bishop of Iria Flavia, who sent word to King Alfonso II of Asturias. Alfonso travelled from Oviedo to the tomb in the field of stars, ‘campus stellae’, and ordered a church to be built on top. This was replaced with a grander church by Alfonso III, consecrated in 899.

Leaving Porto along Rua das Flores (Central Camino Stage 16)

In 997 the Moorish Caliph Almanzor attacked Santiago, stole the church’s bells and forced Christian slaves to transport them to the mosque in Cordoba (they were returned in the 13th century). The church was rebuilt, then in 1075, during the reign of Alfonso VI, work began on the grand-scale cathedral that exists today. The spectacular Romanesque Pórtico da Gloria by Maestro Mateo was completed in 1188; the cathedral was consecrated in 1211 and Santiago de Compostela became a place of holy pilgrimage alongside Jerusalem and Rome.

Portuguese history and the Camino

Prehistoric finds including petroglyphs (outside of Pontevedra on Stage 1 of the Spiritual Variant/Variante Espiritual) and megalithic tombs (Dolmen of Barrosa at Vila Praia de Âncora, Stage 4 of the Coastal Camino) pre-date the arrival of the Celts who came to the Iberian Peninsula around 1000

BC

and built fortified hilltop settlements (Viana do Castelo and A Guarda, Stages 3 and 5 of the Coastal Camino). The Romans arrived around 218

BC

and after initial resistance from the Lusitanian tribes they flourished, building bridges and a major road network. They introduced new salting techniques to preserve fish (seen in Praia de Angeiras, Stage 1A of the Coastal Camino) and cultivated wine, olive oil and cereals to export back to Rome. One of the best examples of Roman civilisation in Portugal is found in Conímbriga (Stage 9 of the Central Camino) – a key Roman settlement with spectacular mosaics. Portugal’s name derives from the Roman name for Porto, Portus Cale.

Roman mosaics, Conímbriga (Central Camino Stage 9)

Barbarian invasions accelerated the downfall of the Romans from the fifth century with the arrival of Alans, Vandals, Suevi and Visigoths, the latter being displaced by the Moors in the eighth century. Under Moorish rule Christians, Jews and Muslims lived alongside each other – although non-Muslims were taxed. The Moors left a lasting legacy which can be seen in place names (such as Alvaiázere and Alvorge), decorative ‘azulejo’ tiles, castles and food items such as citrus fruit and rice. The long Christian Reconquest reached a pivotal moment when Afonso Henriques captured Ourique in 1139, declaring himself King of the Portuguese nation. He went on to capture Santarém and Lisbon in 1147 and was formally recognised by Pope Alexander III as King of Portugal in 1179.

Portugal’s ‘Age of Discoveries’ reached its peak under King Manuel I when explorer Vasco da Gama discovered a sea route to India (1498) and Pedro Álvares Cabral discovered Brazil (1500). The Monarchy lasted until Manuel II ‘The Unfortunate’ abdicated in 1910 and a Republic was declared.

Praça da República, Tomar (Central Camino Stage 6)

Choosing your Camino

There are several options when it comes to choosing the route of your Camino, depending on the length of time you have at your disposal and your personal interests or preferences.

Central Camino (Caminho Central)

This historic route often follows Roman roads (Via XVI connecting Lisbon to Braga and Via XIX connecting Braga to Astorga) and the itineraries of medieval pilgrims such as Jérôme Münzer (a German doctor, 1494) and Giovanni Battista Confalonieri (an Italian priest, 1594), passing through the Ribatejo, Beira Litoral, Douro and Minho regions before crossing into Galicia in Spain.

To reach Santiago:

from Lisbon (621km), allow 25 days plus a few rest days to enjoy Tomar, Coimbra and Porto

from Porto (243km), allow 10 days plus a rest day to explore Pontevedra

from Tui (117km), just across the border in Spain, allow 5 days. This is a popular starting point for pilgrims with limited time but who want to complete the minimum 100km walking distance to be eligible for the Compostela.

Igreja de Bom Jesus da Cruz in Barcelos (Central Camino Stage 17)

Coastal Camino (Caminho da Costa)

Starting from Porto, the ‘younger’ Coastal route doesn’t always hug the coastline although it’s spectacular when it does. King Manuel visited Azurara and Vila do Conde (Stage 1) in 1502 on his pilgrimage (modern-day hikers can visit the churches he instructed to be built). Further north, the Church of Santiago in Castelo do Neiva (Stage 3) has the oldest inscription dedicated to Santiago outside of Spain, dated 862. In Viana do Castelo (also Stage 3) there’s the opportunity to visit the old pilgrim hospital, opened in 1468. On reaching the border in Caminha (Stage 5) there’s a choice: either cross the River Minho by boat into Spain then continue to follow the coast to Vigo, connecting with the Central Camino in Redondela; or follow the Minho east and join the Central Camino in Valença.

To reach Santiago:

from Porto (253/263km), allow 10 to 12 days depending on where you rejoin the central route. If you have time for rest days, consider choosing Viana do Castelo then Vigo to visit the Cíes Islands.

from Vigo (100km), allow 4 to 5 days. This is the minimum walking distance required to be eligible for the Compostela.

View of the Basílica de Santa Luzia at sunset from the Pousada in Viana do Castelo (Coastal Camino Stage 3)

Seaside Path (Senda Litoral)

This seaside route along the Portuguese coastline is a work in progress consisting of sections of boardwalks, esplanades and cycle paths. Although it’s not currently possible to follow these paths all the way from Porto to Caminha, the Coastal Camino utilises them on a few occasions.

Spiritual Variant (Variante Espiritual)

An exceptionally scenic route between Pontevedra and Padrón, culminating in an optional boat ride following the maritime Translatio route which the boat carrying St James’ body and his disciples is believed to have sailed along in

AD

44.

Distance (taking the boat): 46.1km – allow 2–3 days, depending on the boat schedule

Distance (all walking): 77.9km – allow 3 days

Other routes

The following Portuguese routes are not described in this guide:

Fátima route – Caminho de Tejo and Caminho Nascente

The Central Camino from Lisbon follows both blue Fátima waymarks and yellow Santiago waymarks until Santarém, where the two routes split. It’s possible to walk from Santarém to Fátima in two days (58km) then one day from Fátima to Tomar (29.5km), rejoining the Central Camino for Stage 7. This is a beautiful yet challenging mountainous Camino; for more information see www.caminho.com.pt

Braga route – Caminho de Braga

This route starts in Porto and travels to the Roman city of Braga, home to Portugal’s oldest cathedral, before joining the Central Camino in Ponte de Lima (Stage 18).

Interior route – Caminho Interior

Starting in Viseu, the interior route travels north through Chaves, crossing into Spain near Verín, then connects with the Camino Sanabres leg of the Vía de la Plata.

Other factors

There are other factors to take into consideration when choosing your Camino.

Budget

The number of albergues is increasing year on year and there are plenty from Porto onwards. Between Lisbon and Porto some nights in a private hostel or pension will be unavoidable. Expect to pay between €8 and €15 for albergues and between €10 and €35 for hostels and budget accommodation. Food is generally cheaper in Portugal than Spain and if you’re travelling as a couple you may even be able to share evening meals as portions are large.

Pastel de nata: sweet pastries, difficult to resist along the Camino!

Physical fitness

With just a few exceptions, there is no great elevation gain; there is, however, a considerable amount of walking on paved and cobbled paths/roads which can be hard on your feet – especially when walking for 6–7 hours, day after day. Some stages may require you to walk more than 25km per day on consecutive days, so a general level of fitness is required. Try to build up your fitness at home by walking on consecutive days and carrying your full pack; this way you can address any niggles and sore spots before starting. The most common problems are blisters, dehydration and back-ache from carrying too much weight, but these issues can be remedied by stopping as soon as you feel a hot spot and applying a plaster, keeping your fluids up and packing as light as possible. Always listen to your body and rest when you need to.

Essential pilgrim information

Credential and stamps

Credential, scallop shell and Compostela

Typically, pilgrims collect stamps (carimbo/sello) in a credential, which is required in order to stay in albergues, and also acts as proof of your pilgrimage, enabling you to receive the Compostela (certificate of completion of pilgrimage) in Santiago.

The all-important credential is available in the following places:

Lisbon

cathedral, open Mon–Sat 10am–6pm (Oct–Mar); Mon–Sat 9.30am–7pm (Apr–Sep)

Basílica dos Mártires on Rua Serpa Pinto, open Mon–Fri 9am–6.30pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6.30pm

Porto

cathedral, open daily 9am–6.30pm

Tui

cathedral, open daily 10.45am–2pm & 4–8pm (Jul–Sep); Mon–Sat 10.45am–2pm & 4–8pm, Sun 9am–12.45pm & 4–8pm (Apr–Jun); Mon–Sat 10.45am–2pm & 4–7pm, Sun 9am–12.45pm & 4–7pm (Oct–Mar)

If you want to leave home equipped with a credential, contact the pilgrim association nearest you. There is a directory of associations at www.caminodesantiago.gal (English-language option available). You can also purchase one from the store on this popular Camino forum: www.santiagodecompostela.me

You need to collect at least one stamp per day (two during the last 100km) in your credential to be eligible for the Compostela. Stamps can often be obtained from albergues, churches, turismos (tourist offices), Junta de Freguesia (parish board)/Câmara Municipal (city hall) in Portugal, museums, cafés, bars, restaurants, government buildings and many other businesses.

Shell

This is a symbol of St James that is carried by many pilgrims, often attached to backpacks. In book five of The Codex Calixtinus, the first ever ‘Pilgrim’s Guide’ written in the 12th century about the Camino Frances, there is a record of shells being sold to pilgrims outside Santiago Cathedral. There are many legends relating to how and why the shell became the symbol of St James; one states that as the boat carrying his martyred body approached Galicia, it hit a storm and he was washed overboard only to be found on a beach covered in scallop shells. It is also thought pilgrims used the shell as a scoop for food and water.

If desired, shells can be obtained from various places, including in Porto at the Arte Sacra shop opposite Clérigos Tower, Rua da Assunção no.36; Tui at the Baixo Minho shop on Rúa Ordóñez; or online from www.santiagodecompostela.me

Compostela

This is the official certificate confirming your pilgrimage, provided you fulfil the following requirements: you walked at least the last 100km to Santiago (from Tui on the Central Camino or Vigo on the Coastal Camino); you have a stamped credential (with at least two stamps per day in the last 100km); your motivation for walking was spiritual or religious. Pilgrims with different motivations will receive a document called the ‘certificado’.

The Compostela is available in Santiago from the Pilgrim’s Office, Rúa Carretas no.33.

Pilgrim etiquette

It’s worth remembering at the end of a long day when you’re possibly tired, hungry, aching and longing for a bed, that many of the people working in albergues are volunteers who have given up their time to help you. Perhaps the albergue is full and you have to keep walking, but don’t despair: the Camino has a way of providing and you may end up with a great story to tell. Respect your fellow pilgrims and the locals, and cherish the incredible friendships that you’ll no doubt form.

Getting there and getting away

Lisbon

Arco da Rua Augusta, Praça do Comércio in Lisbon

By air

Lisbon’s Humberto Delgado airport is 7km from the city centre. Its website (www.aeroportolisboa.pt) gives details of flight operators from destinations across the world. Transport from the airport includes:

metro – a journey of about 20 minutes, at €1.85 (including 50 cents for the ‘Viva Viagem’ rechargeable card). Take the red line to Alameda then change onto the green line for Rossio (depending on where you’re staying). See www.metrolisboa.pt

bus – the local bus 744 runs every 15 minutes, at €2. You can purchase a ticket from the driver.

taxi – expect to pay €15–20 to the city centre

By rail

Santa Apolónia or Parque das Nações are the two stations you’re likely to arrive at if coming from Porto or abroad. Santa Apolónia is closest to the centre but both have metro connections: see www.cp.pt.

By bus

Bus stations vary by company, the main ones being Sete Rios in the north west of Lisbon (closest metro Jardim Zoologico on the blue line) and Gare do Oriente bus station in the Parque das Nações area. See Eurolines (www.eurolines.com), Rede Expressos (www.rede-expressos.pt), Avanza (www.avanzabus.com) and InterNorte (www.internorte.pt).

Porto

Porto and Ponte D Luís I

By air

Porto’s Francisco Sá Carneiro airport (www.aeroportoporto.pt) is 20km from the city centre. Transport from the airport includes:

metro – about 30 minutes, at €2.75 (including 60 cents for the ‘Andante’ rechargeable card). Take the purple line ‘E’ and get off at Trindade (depending on where you’re staying). See www.metrodoporto.pt

bus – the local 601 bus runs every 30 minutes and takes 30 minutes, at €2.15 (buy a ticket onboard). Get off at the last stop ‘Cordoaria’ next to Clérigos Tower.

taxi – expect to pay €25–35 to the city centre

By rail

Campanhã station is the arrival point for long-distance and international trains, and there are four metro lines connecting this station to the centre. See www.cp.pt

By bus

Bus stations vary by company. See Rede Expressos (www.rede-expressos.pt), InterNorte (www.internorte.pt), Eurolines (www.eurolines.com) and Alsa (www.alsa.es).

Tui

By air

Vigo-Peinador airport (www.aena.es) is the closest airport to Tui, 24km away. From the airport, take a taxi to Vigo or Redondela (about €25), then take a train (www.renfe.com) to Tui. There is also a local bus between the airport and Vigo centre (line L9A, www.vitrasa.es) requiring you to either walk or take a taxi to Vigo Urzaiz train station for onward trains to Tui.

By rail

Tui’s train station is 1.3km from the cathedral; see www.renfe.es for information.

By bus

Alsa (www.alsa.es) connects Tui with Porto and Spanish destinations. Monbus (www.monbus.es) connects Tui with Pontevedra.

Leaving Santiago

By air

Santiago’s Lavacolla airport (www.aena.es) is 10km from the city.