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    Jewellery Stories of a Different Kind
    Jewellery Stories of a Different Kind
    Jewellery Stories of a Different Kind
    Ebook193 pages2 hours

    Jewellery Stories of a Different Kind

    By Rosie Nicolson

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    About this ebook

    This book is an all-in-one introduction for the novice who wishes to venture into the world of buying and selling vintage costume jewellery. It's also a source of information about the popular types of jewellery you are likely to come across at auctions and markets today. Do you want to know more about the origins of acrostic jewellery and their secret messages of love? Coral, jade, Queen Elizabeth I's 'Checkers Ring' or the history behind the tiger's clavicle brooch from the days of the Raj in India? You'll find these and other interesting, amusing and informative stories about jewellery in this book. Finally, and most importantly, there's a section on the lives of some silversmiths and jewellers, the unique jewellery they designed for us to love, cherish and wear, adding to our sparkle.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherGrosvenor House Publishing
    Release dateNov 30, 2023
    ISBN9781803816609
    Jewellery Stories of a Different Kind
    Author

    Rosie Nicolson

    Rosie Nicolson (born Rothon) grew up in East Lothian, Scotland. Married in her teens, she emigrated with her husband and young family to South Africa where they lived for more than 30 years. Returning to Edinburgh to retire, she learned silversmithing and lapidary and took an interest in collecting Scottish vintage jewellery. A self-starter, Rosie taught herself drawing at the age of 75 and, after researching an unknown bone brooch set in silver, wrote her first essay, 'To Kill a Tiger' during the COVID-19 lockdown crisis. 'Jewellery Stories of a Different Kind' is her first book, and a memoir of her time in South Africa is in the making. You can contact Rosie at rosie@jewellerystories.co.uk

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      Book preview

      Jewellery Stories of a Different Kind - Rosie Nicolson

      cover.jpg

      To the Nicolson family in Scotland, South Africa and Australia.

      Contents

      Dedication

      Index of Figures

      Preface

      Acknowledgements

      Introduction

      1. Information

      The Design Eras in Great Britain

      Buying Vintage Jewellery at Auctions

      Selling Your Jewellery

      Posting Parcels to Australia

      2. Jewellery Stories of a Different Kind

      Abalone and Shell Jewellery

      Acrostic Jewellery: Secret Messages of Love

      Buckle Jewellery: A Symbol of Everlasting Love

      Cameos: The Queens of Shell Jewellery

      Choker Necklaces and Necklace Lengths

      The Coral Necklace

      Is It Jade?

      Jewels of the Sea: Sea Glass and Jet

      La Belle Epoque ‘The Beautiful Age’

      Lockets of Love

      The Luckenbooth Brooches

      Operculum: Exotic Shell Jewellery

      Pebble Jewellery: Scottish Agates

      The Ramakien: Siam Silversmiths Niello Jewellery

      To Kill a Tiger (for a bone in a hat)

      Tortoiseshell and Tortoiseshell Pique Jewellery

      Paul Vincze and the Mysterious Tale of the Cupid Brooch

      3. Some Famous Silversmiths and Their Work

      Geoffrey G Bellamy: Freeman of the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths

      John Hart

      Miriam Haskell : Her Wonderful Illustrious Jewellery

      Nick Hubbard

      Johan G Kjaerland: Plique-a-Jour Enamel Jewellery

      Native American Silversmiths

      The Neiger Brothers: Their Famous Jewellery and Tragic History

      Alexander and Euphemia Ritchie of Iona Celtic Art

      Silversmiths - F Narborough, Jack Rae, Glen Kelso Frame, Micahel Goldsmith

      Copyright

      Index of Figures

      Abalone 1: Selection of sweetheart shell necklaces from Bethlehem.

      Abalone 2: The Abalone. Ears of the Sea.

      Abalone 3: Mother and baby abalone shell.

      Abalone 4: Potentially Miriam Haskell cowrie shell necklace.

      Abalone 5: Reverse, showing braid.

      Abalone 6: MOP Star of Bethlehem brooches.

      Abalone 7: MOP Dove brooches.

      Abalone 8: Abalone silver moon and star with vintage box chain pendant.

      Acrostic 1: Acrostic jewellery double heart ‘Dearest’ brooch.

      Acrostic 2: Acrostic gold heart ‘Dearest’ pendant.

      Buckle 1: Buckle Bangle with Birmingham Hallmark 1970.

      Buckle 2: Buckle ring with garnet.

      Buckle 3: Buckle ring with ivy leaves.

      Buckle 4: A replica Viking pennunular brooch.

      Cameo 1: Gold Cameo ring Georgian gentleman facing left.

      Cameo 2: Gold Cameo earrings with hooks.

      Cameo 3: Cameo brooch of ladies with a dove on a silver mount.

      Cameo 4: Marcasite Cameo Brooch with image facing right.

      Choker 1: Edwardian lady wearing dog collar choker.

      Choker 2: A satour necklace.

      Coral 1: The coral necklace.

      Coral 2: Red coral clip on earrings 1930s.

      Jade 1: Irish Connemara brooch from lady auctioneer.

      Jade 2: Iona marble pin brooch.

      Jade 3: Lavender jade pendant.

      Jade 4: Nephrite jade bead necklace.

      Jade 5: Pounamu New Zealand heart pendant with Maori greeting, ‘Kia ora’ in gold.

      Jade 6: The Maori Pikorua Twist jade pendant representing the many twists and turns of life, the double and treble twist symbolising the group bond in families, siblings and relatives. Togetherness in union, friendship and eternity.

      Jade 7: Malachite ashtray showing peacock eye rings.

      Jade 8: Serpentine acorn pendant in rare blue colour.

      Jade 9: Scottish Iona and Irish Connemara gemstones.

      Jade 10: Indian jade (green aventurine) cylinder cufflinks.

      Jade 11: Green onyx brooch by Scottish silversmith Robert Allison.

      Jade 12: New Zealand silver fern tree and paua shell brooch.

      Sea glass 1: Recent finds of sea glass from the beach at Edinburgh. The thick white piece is from the bottom of a school milk bottle from 1945. The surf and sand has smoothed the rough edges from these broken glass pieces over decades.

      Sea glass 2: Pieces of jet that were picked up from the beach at Lincolnshire, England, by a beachcomber, 100 miles further south than Whitby.

      Sea glass 3: These beads were bought as jet from an auction house, but the auctioneer is unable to say what type of jet they are.

      Sea glass 4: My ‘legionnaire’ jet find from the beach.

      Sea glass 5: A change from jewellery: a bog oak carving from Irish peat bogs of a little pony and cart.

      Sea glass 6: The tree growth can be seen here on th underside of the cart, which you would not see in jet.

      Sea glass 7: Sea glass codd marbles wire wrapped and made into pendants.

      Sea glass 8: Blue and white china fragments from the seashore covering an old bottle.

      La Belle 1: A necklace of genuine graduated seed pearls, blue guilloche enamel clasp with Austrian crystal from La Belle Epoque era in Europe.

      La Belle 2: Close-up of fishhook clasp.

      Lockets 1: A Victorian guilloche blue enamel locket brooch.

      Lockets 2: Tiered mourning gold locket brooch with seed pearls representing tears and ivy leaves for remembrance.

      Lockets 3: A beautifully shaped silver locket by William Suckling Ltd date letter for 1977.

      Lockets 4: A Victorian silver enamel mourning locket with hand painted ‘forget me nots’ and a double-sided glass locket on a chain and a silver badge locket.

      Lockets 5: A modern version of a Victorian locket poison ring.

      Luckenbooth 1: A Luckenbooth brooch, originally two entwined hearts shown with crown and fleur-de-lys, probably influenced by Mary Queen of Scots. Silversmith: T. K. Ebbutt of Edinburgh. Assayed in Edinburgh, 1967.

      Luckenbooth 2: A Scottish school teacher designed this beautiful Celtic knot Luckenbooth brooch but still with the crown above. He was Stuart John Wilson of West Calder Edinburgh; the brooch is signed ‘SJW’ and it was assayed in Edinburgh in 1989.

      Luckenbooth 3: Silver Luckenbooth bracelet, marked Scotland.

      Luckenbooth 4: Luckenbooth brooch by Robert Allison 1965.

      Operculum 1: Turbo Petholatus - Common name tapestry sea snail. Operculum used in ‘eye’ jewellery.

      Operculum 2: Operculum eye brooch set in silver, showing eye side and spiral side of operculum.

      Pebble 1: A banded agate bead necklace with gold clasp and a brooch with a diamond registry mark in silver bloodstone and jasper and a central cairngorm stone.

      Pebble 2: Silver miniature kettle charm with agates.

      Pebble 3: Jasper and bloodstone agate brooch with silver crown above the thistle.

      Pebble 4: An Aberdeen granite agate fish pin brooch in silver.

      Siam 1: A selection of Siam nielloware.

      Siam 2: A colourful enamel panel bracelet of mythological Siam/Thai dancers representing The Ramakien.

      Tiger 1: Tiger bone brooch in unmarked silver mount found in a box of jewellery.

      Tiger 2: It took some time but I finally acquired another genuine tiger bone brooch at an auction in Ireland. This time it was described by the auctioneer as a bone brooch from the days of the Raj, shaped like a horn in a gold mount. Again, there was no mention of it being a tiger bone brooch.

      Tiger 3: I bid for these carved tiger claw pendants dating from the years of the Raj at a recent auction but lost to another buyer. The auctioneer kindly let me use this photo.

      Tortoise 1: Tortoiseshell pique Maltese Cross brooch with brass pin.

      Tortoise 2: Beautiful but fake tortoiseshell combs with diamantes set in silver plate. Dating from the fabulous Art Deco Era.

      Tortoise 3: Exquisite tortoiseshell pique earrings in an early silver and gold floral motif. You can just about make out patches of transparency. Although there is some damage especially to the motif on the earring on the right, these 19th-century earrings have gold hooks and are worth many hundreds of pounds.

      Tortoise 4: Modern tortoiseshell pendant.

      Tortoise 5: The pendant and bangle are believed to be real tortoiseshell, which is being sold to tourists in Nicaragua, the worst country in the world for exploitation of turtles.

      Vincze 1: Silver Cupid brooch with border of blue enamel hearts. Signed ‘P Vincze’ just below the anvil.

      Vincze 2: Back of Cupid brooch. HS.E makers mark and was assayed in Birmingham 1947.

      Bellamy 1: Pisces or fishes brooch for George Tarratt Ltd.

      Bellamy 2: Pisces brooch reverse.

      Bellamy 3: Silver Seahorse Brooch.

      Bellamy 4: Bellamy signature DFS ‘Geoffrey G Bellamy’.

      Silversmiths 5: John Hart silver brooch with rare smoky quartz central stone and date letter for 1978.

      Silversmiths 6: John Hart brooch with a purple amethyst stone and Celtic symbols. Fully hallmarked Scottish brooch with date letter I for 1966/1967. Amethyst is the birthstone for February.

      Miriam 1: The filigree backs and the little rubber pads can clearly be seen.

      Miriam 2: Unmistakably Miriam Haskell clip on earrings - pearls and crystals.

      Silversmiths 3: ‘2 for Tea’ from Alice in Wonderland and the Hamlet Brooch both very much highly valued by collectors as they were made by Nick and his wife Jean Hubbard and will no doubt become very collectable antiques of the future, in times to come.

      Silversmiths 4: Alice in Wonderland - Tea for two brooch by Nick Hubbard and his wife Jean.

      Silversmiths 1: ‘Letting in daylight ’ colourful enamel earrings set in gold. They have gold hooks are unsigned but believed to be by G. Kjaerland of Norway who specialised in this type of enamel.

      Silversmiths 2: Pearls of J. Kohle, of Pforzheim Germany. Opera length single strand of pearls manufactured by high-quality German jewellers. J. Kohle, established in 1872, is still being managed by the Kohle family to this day. The hook is signed ‘JKa 925’.

      Native American 1: Gold turquoise ring from Sleeping Beauty Mine, Colorado.

      Native American 2: Zuni petit point earrings. Note the height of the bezel and tooth design to hold the turquoise is quite high. These are early earrings; the turquoise today is set in a flat edged bezel and not so raised as it appears in this vintage design.

      Native American 3: Navajo sterling silver and turquoise earrings.

      Native American 4: A selection of Native American silver and turquoise jewellery. Note the bear paw earrings at the back of the photo.

      Native American 5: Mexican coral and liquid silver necklace and beaten silver earrings, named ‘liquid silver’ because the silver tube beads move as if flowing liquid.

      Native American 6: Hand beaten Mexican silver stud earrings with matching ring.

      Neiger 1: Neiger Brothers - Egyptian revival uranium necklace shown under an ultra violet light or black light.

      Neiger 2: This fringe necklace of jade scarab cabochons on filigree drops is unsigned but believed to be by the Neiger Brothers. However, it has been suggested that the necklace may be Chinese because of the use of Chinese (nephrite jade) and the 13 drops. Number 13 is a very lucky number in Chinese culture.

      Neiger 3: The Egyptian revival necklace with a huge scarab beetle pendant is unsigned and shown in natural light.

      Neiger 4: The ‘Elephant’ beads in the middle of the scarab beads.

      Ritchies 1: The

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