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Chanderi

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Chanderi-Located

as a small township of the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, Chanderi, had unending

patronage from the royals and the State even as it carries the past century old weaving profession to the current one. It was then also famous traditional headgear (Pagri) and drape around (duppatta) for women in fine muslins weaves made from hand spun yarns. These were then decorated with embellishments in zari till late in the nineteenth century. However, economic and natural compulsions forced the scenario to change when mill made yarn was introduced in the last decade of the nineteenth century. Chanderi fabrics can mainly be classified as pure silk (in warp and weft woven in 13/15 denier), cottons (warp and wefts in 100 and 120s even give the famed Dacca muslins a run for their money!) and silk-cotton (a combination of 13/15-denier warp with 100s/120s cotton in the weft). Chanderi stands out due to its uniquely patterned figurines and their motif effects produced with the help of additional weft design where earlier zari was used in their gossamer creation. Silk added versatility to its artistry in the 1940s with further introduction of 'fly shuttle' looms, 'jacquard' and 'dobby'. Today, Chanderi blessed with a mix or traditional and modern techniques and deft skills of weavers honed by institutional supports stands out as a cluster success in every sense. One wonders how the local traditional weavers weave gold in silk and cotton to design kaleidoscopic creations that mostly drape the who's who among royalties and the society elite.

Chikan (embroidery)- chikan is a traditional embroidery style from Lucknow, India. Literally translated, the word means embroidery. Believed to have been introduced by Nur Jehan, Mughal emperor Jahangir's wife,[1] it is one of Lucknow's most famous textile decoration styles.

There are several theories about the origin of Chikankari. Chikankari (process of chikan) was basically invented in Lucknow (India). It developed quickly during the period when Mughals ruled and consisted of style inspired by Persians. Lucknow in India grew into an international market for its renowned Chikankari work. There are references to Indian Chikan work as early as 3rd century BC. by Megasthenes who mentioned the use of flowered muslins by Indians. There is also a tale that mentions how a traveler taught Chikankari to a peasant in return of water to drink. However, the Noorjahan story is the most popular of the lot.[2] The name Chikan has been derived from the Persian word Chakin or Chikeen meaning a cloth wrought with needlework[3] Chikan began as a type of white-on-white (or whitework) embroidery. Technique- Creation of a chikan work (chikankari ) piece begins with the use of one or more pattern blocks that are used to block-print a pattern on the ground fabric. The embroiderer then stitches the pattern, and the finished piece is carefully washed to remove all traces of the printed pattern.[4] The patterns and effects created depend on the types of stitches and the thicknesses of the threads used in the embroidery. Some of the varieties of stitches used include backstitch, chain stitch and hemstitch. The result is an open work pattern, jali (lace) or shadow-work. Often the embroiderer creates mesh-like sections in the design by using a needle to separate threads in the ground fabric, and then working around the spaces.[4] It consists of 36 different Stitches in which the major stitches are called in Lucknowi language as "Bakhiya" "Fanda" "Murri" "Bijli" "Pechni" "Ghans patti" "Ulti Jali".[5]

Kolahpuri chappals-Kolhapuri chappals are Indian hand-crafted leather slippers that are locally tanned using vegetable dyes. They are famous handcrafted footwear made in the villages of Athani Taluk in the Belgaum district of Karnataka state of India.[1][2] The villages well-known for this traditional form of footwear are Madbhavi, Mole, Athani, Shedbal and Ainapur.[3][4]
This footwear has been popular since the 18th century. The chappals get their name as the style is Kolhapuri, while being sold in adjoining towns and cities of Maharashtra, including Kolhapur, assumed the brand name of Kolhapuri chappal Kolhapuri chappals are made from processed leather. Hides of buffalo are processed and grazed. Grazing of leather makes the leather hard enough for daily wear and tear use.

Some of the traditional designs of Kolhapuri chappals include Kachkadi, Bakkalnali, and Pukari. These chappals are stout, sturdy, day long usable. These are very popular in rural areas of Maharashtra.[6] The famous handicraft of Kolhapur, and Geographical Indication has been applied by the government.

Mojari- Mojari are made by artisans mostly using vegetable-tanned leather. The uppers are made of one piece of leather or textile embroidered and embellished with brass nails, cowry shells, mirrors, bells and ceramic beads. Even the bonding from the upper to the sole is done by cotton thread that is not only eco-friendly but also enmeshes the leather fibers with great strength. Some product range also uses bright and ornate threads.[1]

In ancient times these were worn by multitude and royalty. As it evolved through the centuries and is being produced by individual artisans, products vary in designs and colours. It encapsules cultural diversity, local ethos and ethnicity. The ethnicity of the traditional skills accentuate into poetry when intermingled with the contemporary colours and designs. Applique in form of differently designed figures are cut out of leather and sewn on the vamp manually. The design would dictate the nature, colour and shape of the appliqu. It could range from an intricate appliqu which itself could incorporate other design features like embroidery, punches, weaves, etc., to a simple cut out shape from any material like leather, textile, synthetic, etc.
Mojari is referred to a man's closed shoe with an extended curled toe, while as juttis have flat fronts. In juttis, rear is normally covered but mojaris have an open look from behind. Produced mainly in Jaipur and Jodhpur, cities of Rajasthan, these juttis were flat soled and there were no left-right distinctions between them.

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