PARTS OF A COMPLETE DESIGN FOR A WOVEN FABRIC:

DRAFTING PLAN

PLAIN VIEW 2x2 REPEAT WEAVING PLAN LIFTING PLAN

CONTACT FIELDS:
4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 CONTACT FIELDS= RN wa X RN we 4 X 4 :: 16

FORMULA NUMBER:

FN we: 2 RN means REPEAT NUMBER 1

FN wa: 4

SYSTEMS OF DRAFTING:
1. STRAIGHT DRAFT (or ENTERING)

4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 4 3 2 1 S entering

4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 4 3 2 1 Z entering

# 2. POINT DRAFT: 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 3 2 1 4 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 3 2 5 4 3 5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 5 4 3 5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 6

2 1

2 1

3. SKIP DRAFTS:

4 3 2 1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

FIGURE A: ONE REPEAT FIGURE B: FOUR REPEAT WARP UP WEFT UP WEFT UP WARP UP

(A)

(B) POINT PAPER DIAGRAM INTERLACING TYPE 'A' INTERLACING TYPE 'B'

1 1

1 4

11 12 13 14

BROKEN DRAFT

4 3 2 1

# # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

REGULAR WARP RIB:

# 2 2 (warp rib)

2 4

(warp rib)

IRREGULAR WARP RIB:

REGULAR WEFT RIB WEAVE: 1 2 3

# # 3 2 (warp rib)

1 1

2 weft rib

IRREGULAR WEFT RIB WEAVE:

3 2 1

4 3 2 1

3 1

6 # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 (3+1) weft rib 1 1 2 3 4

(2+1) weft rib

HOSPACK, BASKET OR MATT WEAVE:

4 3 2 1

4 2

6 2

2 2

MATT WEAVE

6 5 4 3 2 1

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

5 3

7 3

9 10 11 12

IRREGULAR MATT WEAVE:

3 2 1

5 4 3 2 1

5 3

7 (3+1)

9 10 11 12

5 6 7 8 3 (3+2) 2

9 10

3 1

(3+1)

MATT FABRIC WITH WEAVE

STITCH MATT WEAVE: FANCY MATT WEAVE:

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 5 5 STITCH MATT 5

7 5

8 5

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 5 FANCY MATT

5. DIVIDED DRAFT:

6. GROUPED DRAFTS:

7 6 5 4 3 2 1

7. CURVED DRAFTS: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

REGULAR WEFT RIB WEAVE: REGULAR WEFT RIB WEAVE: 6 5 4 8 7 6 5

3 2 1

4 3 2 1

7 8 9 10 11 12 1 3 weft rib 1

6 # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 1 4 weft rib 1

6 5 4 3 2 1

6 7 8 9 10 11 12 1 (4+2) weft rib 1

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 4 4 4

1 2 3 4 5 6

5 # 4 2

(4+2)

FANCY MATT WEAVE:

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 7 7 FANCY MATT 7

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 7 7 FANCY MATT 7

6. GROUPED DRAFTS:

8. COMBINED DRAFT: 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

7. CURVED DRAFTS: 1 2 3

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

14 15 16 4 weft rib

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 9 9 9 FANCY MATT

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28

35 36

CLASSIFICATION OF PLAIN CLOTHS: 1. APPROXIMATELY SQUARE CLOTHS:

2. WARP FACED CLOT

3. WEFT FACED CLOTH:

2. WARP FACED CLOTH:

3 2

warp way twill

d) According to the nature of the produced twill line: SIMPLE TWILL:

1 2

1 3

EXPANDED TWILL:

3 2

4 S

MULTIPLE TWILL:

4 1

1 S

3 1

1 1

2 2

Horizontal zigzag weave:

1 2 3 4 3 2 1 4

Z 2

8X4

# Horizontal zig zag twill based on

2 2

twill weave.

1 2 3 4 3 2

Z 2

6X4

# Horizontal zig zag twill based on

1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4

1 2 1 4 3 2 1 4 3 2 1 4

2 2

20x4

1 2 3 4 5 6

1 2 3 4 5 6

5 4 3 2 1 6

3 3

12x6

Horizontal zig zag t

1 2 3 4 5 4 3

2 1 5

3 2

10x5

Horizontal zig zag t

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 8

3 1

2 2

16x8

Horizontal zig zag t

Vertical zig-zag weave:

4 1

2 3 4 3 2 1 #

2 2

4X8

# Vertical zig zag twill based on

4 1 2 3 4 3 2 1 #

2 2

4X8

# Vertical zig zag twill based on

Weft face twill:

warp way twill

3 2

weft way twill

3 2

2 1

Z 4 1 S
#

4 4

Z
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

S
# 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

3 1

1 3

twill weave.

twill weave.

# Horizontal zig zag twill based on

2 2

twill weave.

Horizontal zig zag twill based on

twill weave.

Horizontal zig zag twill based on

twill weave.

2 1 2

Horizontal zig zag twill based on

twill weave

twill based on

warp way twill weave.

5 1 2 3 4 5 4 3 2 1
2

twill based on

# weft way twill weave.

2 3

5X10

Weft face twill:

Weft face twill:

Double face twill: Even sided twill:

2 3

2 3

2 2

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

1 1

3 1

1 5

# Vertical zig zag twill based on

2 3

# warp way twill weave.

2 3

Warp face twill:

3 1

24

2 3 4 5 4 3 2 1 5X8 # Vertical zig zag twill based on

2 3 Z

warp way twill weave.

y twill weave.

# 1 2 3 4 3 twill 1

regular matt

4 4

4 3 2 1

5 4 3 2 1

5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 #

TWILL WEAVE:

7 6 5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 # WEFT WAY

# 2 2 z WEFT WAY 2 2

WARP FACED CLOTH

WEFT FACED CLOTH

3 1

1 1

2 2

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 7 8 9 #

1 2 3 4

1 # 1 2 3 4 5

3 2 1#

1 2 3 4 2

6 X

2 3 4 3 2 1

5 1 2 3 4 5 4 3 2 1

1 2 3 4 5 4 3 2 1 5

# 1 2 3 4 5

Herringbone

# 1 2 3 4 4 Z 2
5

6 7 8 9 # # #

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # # # # # #

1 2 3 4 3 2 1 4 1 2 3 4 3 2

1 4

5 4 3 2 1

diaper design

diaper design based on 3 2

2 3 4 3 2 1 4 1 2 3 4 3 2 1 4

# 2 2 Z # Diamond design based on 2

twill

4 1 2 3 4 3 2 1

4 3 2 1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

# 3 2 Z

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 #

Derivatives of satin weave:

1. crepe weaves:
Basic methods of producing crepe weaves:

a. On a Sateen base b.By reversing c. By superimposing d. On a plain weave base a. On a Sateen base

7 end sateen 1 6 move no 4

Repeat 7 2 1 3 1

b.By reversing
a

C. Superimposing:

Move no 2 5 end sateen

1
1

1 2

Super imposing

4 end sateen

4 end satin

1 Move no 5 8 end sateen

Plain Base:
6 5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 6 end sateen 6 5 4 3 2 1 1
3

4 3 2

2. Corkscrew weave: 172 pages

3. Shaded weaves

single shaded

5 end sateen

Double shaded 20X5 weave

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # # # # # # # # # # # # # #

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # #

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # # 2 3 4 2

Example of irregular sateen: 4 end sateen

twill

No move number

4 end Satin

Huckaback weave
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
8

9 #

Repeat 10X10

Devon Huckaback
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 6 5 4 3 2 1
10

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # 6 5 4 3 2 1 Repeat 10X6

Mock leno weaves

Repeat 6X6

Honeycomb weaves:

1. Ordinary honey comb 2. Brighton honeycomb

# 6X6

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10X8

10

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 #

Wrong formation

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # # # # # #

10

# # # #

2. Brighton honeycomb

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # #

# # #

Distorted thread effect

1. Distorted warp effect 2. Distorted weft effect

1. Distorted warp effect

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5
9

# # # # # # # 1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # # # # # #

6 7 8 9 #

6 7 8 9 #

2. Distorted weft effect

Cord effect:

Bedford cord:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
8

9 # # #

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # #

c c

c c

Wadded bedford cord design: 1 2 3 4

5

6 7 8 9 # # # # # # # # #

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # #

c c

c c

Color and weave effects

Simple color and weave effects:

X X X X X X X X X X x x X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X # # # 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 #

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # # # # # END AND END COLORING x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

Order of coloring: 2:2

Continuous line effect

Hair lines or pin stripe:

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

Order of coloring: 2:2

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

Crows foot pattern

X X X X X X X X X X X X 1 1 X X X X X X X X X
X

Order of coloring: 4:4

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x 2 2 2 x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X

Order of coloring: 2:2

Dogs tooth/ Hounds tooth pattern:

Order of coloring: 4:4
x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

Shephards check pattern:

2/2 twill
Order of coloring: 6:6
x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x

All over effects

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

6 7 8 X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X

4/4 TWILL COLOR ORDERING: 6:06

X X X X

X X X X X

X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X

X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

Zig-Zag weave:

3 4 3 2 1 4

# 2
2

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

warp up weft up

WEFT FACED CLOTH

# Sateen base crepe weave

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # # 6 5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 6

# # # # # #

# # # # # #

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x

x x x x

x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

coloring: 4:4
x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

X X x x X X X X x x X X X X x x X X X X x X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

Sundor design

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x

X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

2
2

3
2

3+2

5
5

move no 5 4

1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

9 10 11 12

3 5

4 5

9 10

9 10 11 12 13 14

# 3 1 Z

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

# 4 3 Z

7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 6 5 4

3 2 1 # 4 3 Z

7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 7

9 10 11 12 13 14

# 4 3 Z

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

5 END SATEEN

5 END SATIN

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

SHADED WEAVES: 1. SINGLE SHADDED

5 END SATEEN

5 END SATIN

5 END SATIN

9 10 11 12 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Huckaback weave: 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 2

x x

x x x x

x x

x x x x

x x

x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

12X10

9 10 11 12 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Huckaback weave: 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

1 1 2 3 4 5 6 1 2 3 4 5 6

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

9 10 11 12 13 14 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

9 10 11 12

9 10 11 12

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x x x

x x x x x x x x

x x x x

x x x x x x x x

x x x x

x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x

x x

x x x x x

x x

x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

2 2

3 weft way twill 1

2 1

# 3 2 S

3 3

4 3

1 3

2 1

2 1

4 3 2 1

3 4 5 6 2 2 repeat: 2x4

3 4 1 2 1 repeat: 4x2

2 1

3 4 5 6 2 irregular warp rib 1 repeat: 2x3

5 4 3 2 1

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

horizontal zigzag twill based on 3 2 Herringbone twill weave: 1. Horizontal herringbone 2. Vertical herringbone

horizontal herringbone based on

vertical herringbone based on

diamond weave:]

3 2

Diaper weave:

3 4 1 2 1 4x2

3 4 1 2+3 1 repeat: 5x2

2 2

9 10

3 2

4 1 2 3 4 3 2 1 4

ntal herringbone based on

2 2

al herringbone based on

2 2

5 1 2 3 4 5 4 3 2 1 5

Diamond weave based on

3 2

twill weave

5 1 2 3 4 5 4 3 2 1 #

4 1 2 3 4

8 4 1 2 3 4 3 2 1

1 2 3 4 3 2 1 4