Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

Srimate Ramanujay namah

Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s Travelogue to Muktinarayan.

Visit to the sacred abode of lord Muktinath (Mukti Narayan) was inspired by Sri
Govindrajan Swamy, a revered priest of SriRang Mandir, Vrindavan. This has been in
my family tradition also and my father had visited the sacred divine abode by trekking
about one hundred km from Pokahara itself.

This is situated in Annapurna range of mountains in Nepal. Actually Pokhara is the

gateway to proceed towards Muktinath. By whatever mode of transport one adopts,
Pokhara is the first destination, whether one comes from Kathmandu side or Gorakhpur
(India) side. One can take luxury buses from Delhi for either Kathmandu or Sunauli
(India –Nepal border town while coming from Gorakshpur side). Besides taking a short
time flight from Pokhara to Jomsom, one can take a bus from Pokhara to Beni which is
about 70 km from Pokhara. From Beni fourteen seater jeeps are available for Jomsom
which takes about 10 hours travel time using the gravel road. At Jomsom one has to
cross Kali Gandaki by the footbridge (as there is no vehicular bridge), and on the other
side of the Gandaki river again similar jeeps are available for Muktinath which take about
2 hours to reach Ranipaua (traversing on gravel road through rugged mountaineous
terrain), the foothill settlement about one km down the Muktinath peak. Either one can
trek through broken grounds, about 700 steps up, from here or take a motorbike to be
dropped at the temple gate of Lord Muktinarayan.

1. Start : Delhi, May 29, 2009

Took train from old Delhi railway junction for Gorakhpur. Amritsar Katihar express (also
called Amrapali) reached Delhi Junction four hours late and left Delhi station at 7:30 pm
instead of 3:30 pm. While reaching Gorakhpur the train became late by six hours and I
could get down at platform at 1:45 pm, May 30, 2009 against the schedule time of 5:50
am.

2. May 30, 2009 Gorakhpur

Took bus from Gorakhpur to Sunauli (Indian boarder town) and reached there at about 6
pm. Crossed the border line, and on Nepal side a formal check of the baggage was done
by the Nepalese officials. Got a night bus from there to Pokhara. Sometimes the buses
are not available right at Sunauli border and one has to go to Bhairwan, a couple of km
inside Nepal. The bus left Sunauli at about 6:30 pm via Butwal and reached Pokhara in
the morning at 7 am, May 31, 2009.

While buying bust ticket (INR 250; Indian currency is popularly called IC, and Nepalese
currency called NC; 100 IC = 160 NC; Hundred rupees Indian currency is acceptable in Nepal
and other larger denominations are rarely accepted in routine shopping transaction) at Sunauli
the travel agent also booked a single accommodation room at Pokhara (Dharmma Inn)
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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

for a tariff of Rs 400 (INR), and I had to pay INR 200, half money as advance at Sunauli.
The Dharmma Inn representative had come to receive me at bus stand and took me to
the hotel by a Maruti car (hotel vehicle) as the transport was complimentary in the hotel
tariff.

3. May 31, 2009 Pokhara

After I settled down in the hotel room, and finished my breakfast, the hotel representative
took me at 10 am to Nepal Tourist Registration office at Pokhara. I had to carry 2
passport size photos, and after filling a prescribed form and submitting the fee of NC
300, I got the permit for trekking . The permit is said to be valid for 3 months although
nothing is mentioned in this regard on the permit paper. I had to pay additional NC 100
to the hotel representative for his assistance in taking me to the office and taking back to
the hotel.

Before leaving to obtain the trekking permit, the payment for the air ticket of Yeti air lines
was made in cash at the Dharmma Inn help desk counter itself. Up and down ticket for
Pokhara – Jomsom – Pokhara was booked on telephone on calling Yetiairlines
Kathmandu office number (977 – 14465888) from India on May 27, 2009. For payment a
time limit of 12 noon, May 31, 2009 was prescribed by the airline. The relevant PNR of
booking was noted down from the airline while booking the seat from India. Accordingly
when I conveyed the PNR of booking, the hotel representative helped in buying the
ticket ( 2 x 3790 NC or its equivalent IC about 4700) within the time limit of the payment.

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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

4. June 1, 2009 Pokhara - Jomsom

Hotel vehicle charged

NC 200 for dropping
me at Pokhara airport
at 5:15 am. Took the
first Yeti airlines flight
to Pokhara which took
off at 6:30 am and
landed at Jomsom in
about 30 minutes.
Normally the airlines
run three consecutive
flights to Jomsom and
back to Pokhara
everyday from morning
6:30 am to 10:00 am.
After 10 am the wind
speed goes very high
and due to safety reason no flights are available after 10 am.

Before leaving Jomsom, the permit paper was produced first at the tourist Information
Office counter. The official signed and sealed the permit showing the date of leaving
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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

Jomsom. Thereafter the same was produced in the police office located about 200 m
away from the tourist information office on way to Kagbeni. The police also sealed and
signed the permit. Both the offices also made record in the official register about the
permit. On trekking left Jomsom for Kagbeni. The distance of 10 km was covered in
about 3 hrs 30 mts in the company of a few porters who were also going to Kagbeni. It
was just a coincidence that porters met on way while leaving Jomsom alone. On way to
Kagbeni the trekking route traversed almost on the bank of the Krishna (Kali) Gandaki
river. The river passes through a wide valley (300 / 500 m) with water stream
meandering in a width of not more than 10 m. For convenient trekking certain portion of
the route passed through the bed of the river also. On way twice 15 – 20 minutes breaks
were also taken to relax and regain the freshness.

• Jomsom Airport (top left)

• Jomsom town (bottom left)

• Aircraft (single propeller 19 seater

including attendant)

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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

Kali Gandaki (on

way to Kagbeni)

Shalagram (top) collected from river bed and

kept for sale by Eklabetti single house hold
inhabitant (right)

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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

5. June 1, 2009 Kagbeni – Muktinath

After reaching Kagbeni, the accompanying group of porters set out for another
destination. Kagbeni is a confluence of Mustang river coming from North, Tibet side
Himalaya, and Kak river coming from East, i.e., Muktinath. After the confluence the river
is called Kali (Krishna) Gandaki and at the confluence locals offer life cherished oblation
to their forefathers. It was around 10:30 am, and it was learnt that most of the height to
Muktinath is covered in the balance stretch from Kagbeni to Muktinath. Althogh earlier it
was planned to spend one night at Kagbeni, but this was reviewed in light of the fact that
since it was early 10:30 am in the day it would be proper to utilize the time in moving
towards Muktinath. Due to tiredness, it was decided to take a motorbike ride which cost
NC 1500 and took about 45 minutes in reaching the gate of the Muktinath temple.

The jeeps are also available from Jomsom to Muktinath via Kagbeni. They carry 14
passengers and locals are charged
only NC 150 for one side journey
whereas the foreigners have to pay NC

300. The jeeps take about two hours from

Jomsom to Muktinath, and they use the gravel
road made on the bank of the Krishna Gandaki.
Passengers get down at Ranipaua, about one
km before the temple. From Ranipaua to the temple, the trekking passes through a
rough climbing terrain. All the hotels, guest houses and restaurants are located down at
Ranipaua. Elderly pilgrims are helped by motorbikes from Ranipaua (photo) to the temple
by paying NC 325.

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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

6. June 1, 2009 Muktinath

Luckily it was a sunny day

indicating the lord was
pleased to offer divine
blessings to the visiting
devotees. There are 108
gomukh dhara (cow mouth
water fall) circumscribing the
back side of the temple
premises. Although the water
was chill cold several
devotees were taking head
bath, but this devotee couldn’t
dare take drenching bath and
therefore sprinkled water from
each one of them over his
head chanting “aum namoh narayanay”
and also begged pardon from the lord for not
taking full fledged bath.

The sanctum sanctorum gate was closed

temporarily and when the feminine priest
arrived there were hardly three – four
devotees waiting for the darshan
including this devotee also. When the
door opened and entry was granted, it
was the opportunity of very rare divine
experience. The super sublime benign
face of the lord Muktinarayan with a
smile could never be missed in the first
sight. The life size lord Muktinarayan is
in sitting posture with closed eyes. His four hands are equipped with the divine insignia.
The right top hand middle finger holds the chakra. The left top hand is with sankha tied
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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

to wrist because the thumb, middle and

ring fingers touch each other at their tips
and the fore finger and the little finger
are in straight erect posture. The lower
right hand is holding gada, and the left
lower hand holds padma but the fingers
are in the posture like that of the left top
hand such that the padma is inserted in
the annular space created by curving of
the thumb touching the middle and ring
fingers. The right leg bent from the knee
rests over the left leg lying bent from the knee. The lord’s head is crowned with long and
impressive ear lobes. Goddesses lakshmi are in standing pose on either side close to
the lord and their standing
height is similar to the sitting
height of the lord Himself. One
hand of each of the two
goddesses nearer to the lord
are raised up with the straight
open forefinger alerting the
devotees about the presence
of the lord while all the other
fingers are kept folded forming
the fist. The other hands of the
two goddesses away from the
lord are folded from the elbow
and the palm rests over their
(goddess) chests.

Two small idols of Sri Ramanuj swami and Sri Garudjee, also occupy their seat on the
left front of the lord on a separate small pedestal. The same pedestal is also occupied in
its central portion by three big size Shalagram with urdhva pundra tilka marked on each
of them. On the right front of the lord is placed two small idols of Nara and Narayan in
sitting meditative posture and they occupy the same pedestal as of Shalagram, Sri
Ramanuja swami and Sri Garudjee. All the idols including the lord, and the two
goddesses (excluding Shalagram) are of brass (pital) including chakra, gada and padma
but the sankha is made of white shell 1 .

                                                            
1
 The following day of Ganga Dusahara it was noticed the brass padma was not in the possession of the 
lord. It could have been removed for cleaning but couldn’t be placed back in its original position. Similarly 
it seems the shell sankha is tied to the lord’s upper left arm later, and the initial brass sankha fitted in the 
space around the folded fingers is missing.  

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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

The specially tailored colourful dresses fitting well over the lord, goddesses, and the
other idols are wrapped around them with the help of tying ribbons of the same cloth and
no buttons are used.

Dry fruits, Dhoti for the lord, and sari for the goddesses were carried by this devotee
from India. The offerings were accepted by the feminine priest. She immediately put the
cloths over the deities and dry fruits were kept on the front pedestal. She also gave back
part of the dry fruits and also one scarf from the goddess’s dresses.

It was now late afternoon, and

left the temple premises and
came down to Ranipaua. One
room at first floor in one of the
hotels called Moon-Light was
hired for IC 200 per day. On
paying NC 175 simple rice, dal
and vegetables were also
purchased for lunch. When
evening set in, the bulb
powered by the solar panel
went out. Seeing no other
visitor staying in that hotel, it
was decided to quit the hotel and move to the nearby srivaishnava ashrama run by sri
Kamalnayan swamy of Kathmandu. The ashram was vibrant with the presence of
hundreds of visitors. Who ever was staying was provided with wooden cot with hard top
with a cushion mattress, cover sheet, and blanket. The ashram is a two storey wooden
building with a dozen of halls each accommodating about 20 / 30 persons. The in-charge
saint, Sri Vishnudas, represented Sri Kamalanayan swamy. The visitors were offered
free hot water, tea and food. Some of the visitors didn’t take ashram
food, they cooked their own. The ashram has got a
large central open courtyard with verandah on all
the sides. Separate cluster of toilets for ladies and
gents were provided in one corner of the courtyard.
The night was very cold (about 3 / 4° C), and
visitors began rising from 4 am next day, i.e., June
2, 2009 which was ganga dusahara day. The co-
pilgrim in the hall of this devotee was a group of a
family coming from Pokhara. They (Deepak and
Madhava) were Nepal University faculty for
teaching Sanskrit at Pokhara college. Deepak
teaches astrology and Madhava’s area of interest is
ancient scriptures. Their parents were
accompanying them on their life cherished religious
pilgrimage. On previous day while coming from Jomsom, they had
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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

stopped at Kagbeni, confluence, for offering oblations to their forefathers. They had
hired a jeep from Jomsom with a decision to stop for an hour at Kagbeni for this
purpose.

7. June 2, 2009 Muktinath It was

ganga dusahara day. As the sun
was about to rise (about 4:45 am),
devotees began rushing up the
temple for which a trekking of about
1.0 km to climb about 100 m
through rugged stone steps over
700 in numbers, was taken up.
Most impressive offering to the lord
this morning was found to be
burning of bunches of hundreds of
thin cotton wicks soaked in ghee in
one large brass dish / bowl. After
bathing in the Gomukh dhara
devotees came for darshan
followed by burning of wicks outside
the sanctum sanctorum. Some
were reciting srivishnu sahshranam,
while some offered the recitation
from Geeta, Purush Sukta etc.
There is a parikrma trek about 100 /
200 m away
circumscribing the
temple. On this trek lies
srinrisinha swamy
temple, and goddess
jwalamuki temple where
holy flame is inside the
temple. In fact there are
two wick size flames
(blue flame skirting a
central yellow one). One
is between two small
boulders, and the other
one flashes over flowing
stream. Both are quite
close, could be about 30
cm apart. By 10:30 am came down to Ranipaua and hired a jeep to Jomsom. It was
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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

1:00 pm at Jomsom, and the day’s food was taken there in a hotel called Himalayan
hotel, near Yeti Airline office. Tariff of the hotel was NC 500 for single
accommodation having attached toilet. At night an excellent dish of Nepali Dal Bhat
was served by the hotel for NC 200 only. Although the return ticket was for June 5,
2009, Yeti Airline confirmed a seat on June 4, 2009 with an assurance to take a
chance on June 3, 2009 flights also. Luckily at about 7 pm in the evening, Yeti
officials confirmed the availability of a seat in the morning flight of June 3, 2009.

Muktinath Temple from parikram route

(top left), Nrisinha swamy temple (top
right), Jwalamukhi temple (bottom left)

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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

8. June 3, 2009, Pokhara

By 8:30 am landed at Pokhara airport from Jomsom. Took a taxi to ashram of

srikamalnayan swamy of Kathmandu, near Ramghat (Budha stupa). It was
ekadashi day, and had a rare divine experience at the ashram where more than
50 shalagram are worshipped along with Lakshmi - Narayan. Here came a lucky
coincidence of seeing a book at the ashram “srirang venkatesh vrihad
stotramala” published from Mumbai (Somani family).

(Kamalnayan Swamy ashram at

Pokhara)

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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

9. June 4, 2009 Kathmandu

Left Pokhara at 5 am by a microbus carrying about 15 passengers. The fare

charged is NC 325. It reached Kathmandu 200 km from Pokhara at 11:00 am and
had stopped midway for breakfast. Manokamana devi temple lies at about 100 km
from Pokhara and can be accessed by cable car operating nearby the Pokhara –
Kathmandu highway. In fact the entire route of 200 km passes through an
impressive green canyon said to be the deepest and largest in the world. The
journey terminated at new bus park at Kathmandu. From here took a taxi to
Hathisar (near Darbar) where Air India office was located. The confirmed ticket
was for June 6, 2009 (4:15 pm flight) from Kathmandu to Delhi. On request, Air
India provided a confirmed seat (but by paying additional IC 500) in the 10:15 am
flight of June 5, 2006.

From new bus park to Hathisar the taxi charged flat rate of NC 270, without any
meter reading. While coming back after getting confirmation of flight from Air India,
took a taxi from the front road of Darbar; From Hathisar to Darbar came walking to
have a feel of the city’s prime location. Huge crowd of visitors of Darbar were
queuing up on the walk way for their entry. It was earlier called Narayan Hitti and
was the residence of the former king. It was earlier planned to stay at Thamel but
somehow the time constraint of visiting Pashupatinath took me to new bus park
area because while arriving in Kathmandu a lady co-passenger had helped me in
introducing with one travel agent in new bus park area who finally suggested me
to go to Air India office personally.

While coming back, another taxi was hired and this taxi had agreed to run on
meter charge for my destination of new bus park. On reaching the destination I
could notice the meter indicated only NC 102 (against NC 270 paid while going to
Air India office).
The taxi waited
until I got a room
in the nearby
hotel for a tariff of
NC 400
(including TV and
attached toilet)
with check out
time 12 noon
next day. After
putting the
luggage in the
hotel moved to
Pashupatinath by
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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

the same taxi. The meter showed waiting charge of about NC 30, and final
payment up to the temple was NC 400 including the travel from the starting point
in front of Darbar.

10. June 4, 2009 Pashupatinath, Kathmandu

The huge, widely spread well laid out lush green campus of the Pashupatinath is
located in Goshala area of Kathmandu. There are several other small and medium
size temples and buildings on the premises. The main temple possessing the
presence of lord is almost on the bank of Bagmati river where dead bodies are
also cremated.

Time was almost 13:30 when I entered the temple’s threshold. The sanctum
sanctorum has four gates one in
each cardinal direction. Only the
western gate was open to the
devotees at that time. After
darshan I completed one
circumambulation. Some of the
devotees seating near the eastern
and southern side gates told that
soon halwa bhog would be offered
to the lord and a parcel of that
would come to the devotees
waiting outside. I took a chance
and after a while I could get the
holy Prasad. After about 15 / 20
minutes rajbhog (full meal of the
day) was offered to the lord and all
the four gates were opened at that
time. Devotees thronged through
all the four gates. The entire
process of offering and puja took
about 15 minutes thereafter again
the three gates except the western
one were closed. Before closing the doors chandan taken out from the deities
body and wrapped in a belpatra was distributed to all the devotees. No devotee is
allowed to go near the deity and only designated priests offer the puja to the deity
while the devotees are kept waiting on the threshold. Thereafter came back to the
hotel near new bus park area taking ride of a city bus; the fare paid was NC 30.

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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

11. June 11, 2009 back to Delhi

Left the hotel early morning about 6:00 am and reached the airport in thirty
minutes by a taxi paid on meter charge which was about NC 350. The security
check, check -in
and getting
boarding pass
were finished by
8:30 am. After
immigration
which was just a
formality for the
Indians (because
no visa is
required) but
presenting
passport as a
photo ID
facilitates quick
disposal. Final
security check
just before boarding was time taking and boring. Everything was being redone
manually although the hand-baggages were screened through x-ray. The flight
took off about an hour late and reached Delhi in about two hours. Swine flue
screening at Delhi airport took some longer time to come out of the airport. It was
learnt at the immigration counter that although visa is not required for travelling to
Nepal producing of either passport or voter card ID is essential. No other photo ID
was acceptable. Only filled immigration form is turned in over the counter and they
stamp the form and not the passport. For Nepal travel no visa is required and the
passport works as only an authoritative photo ID.

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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

12. Some more miscellaneous information

Ranipauva ashram showing the

police post within Kamalnayan
swamy ashram where trekking
permits are registered.

Latitude Longitude Altitude(m)

Nayapul/Birethanti N 28°17'59" E083°46'14" 1060
Ghorepani N 28°24'09" E083°42'02" 2880
Poon hill N 28°23'56" E083°41'18" 3210
Tatopani N 28°29'50" E083°39'12" 1255
Ghasa N 28°35'38" E083°38'38" 1960
Kalopani N 28°38'13" E083°36'17" 2500
Marpha N 28°45'12" E083°41'12" 2680
Jomsom N 28°47'04" E083°44'07" 2770
Eklabathi N 28°49'06" E083°46'26" 2870
Muktinath N 28°49'00" E083°52'18" 3790

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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

Krishna Gandaki at Jomsom

Timber and steel suspension foot bridges at

Jomsom

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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

13. Sthala purana (Extracted from Adiyan’s Travelgoue)

The following is the sthalapurana and some interesting facts about this divya desam
(Muktinath) which may be helpful for future pilgrims.

Muktinath is situated in Upper Mustang area which is a protected zone and hence permit
is required from the government. We had read in some book that this divya desam is in
the midst of forest in an isolated place with no facility but it looks like it is developing
now. One need not worry about this as you find travelers now and then, there are sign
boards and some hotels/lodges at settlements en route. One can hire a jeep / motorbike
so that the baggages could easily be carried to the final destination. Chant the holy
names while travelling / trekking and God will take care of everything.
Gandakyamcha uttare teere gaMD@yaama ca }<aro tIro
Girirajasya dakshine igairrajasya dixaNao

Dasayojana vistheernaam dsayaaojana ivastI-Nama\

Mahakshetra Vasundharaa mahaxao~ vasaunQara

Saalagramamo Mahadevo Saalagaa/maao mahadovaoa

devi Dwaravati bhaved dovaIWaravatI Bavaod
Ubhayossangamo yatra ]Bayaoa saMgamaao yaa~a
Muktisttattra na samsaya. maui@tstra na saMsaya "

"To the north of the river, Gandaki (also called Narayani), and south of the Himalayas,
there is the holy region of Saalagramama, which is ten yojanas in extent, where
Dwaravati merges into Saalagramama. Undoubtedly such a place is capable of
vouchsafing Moksha."

Legend has it that once Bramha got concerned about increasing of the sinners among
his creation. Then drops of sweat rolled down his cheeks (Sanskrit - Ganda), ultimately
collecting themselves into the form of a female child called "Gandaki." She took it into
her head to do a severe penance which became so overwhelming that the Devas started
trembling before her. As usual they offered her the bait of a boon on return for her
stopping her penance, but they met a Tartar in her, for she wanted to mother all the
Devas. Not having the power to grant such a boon, the Devas pleaded their inability, at
which Gandaki became furious and cursed all the Devas to be born as worms on the
earth below. The Devas in their turn placed a counter curse on her head that she should
become “Jada" or inert matter.
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 Srikrishna Prapnnachari’s       Travelogue   to   Muktinarayan     (May 29 2009 through June 5, 2009) 

Naturally Bramha was concerned with this unexpected development. Unable to find a
way out, he consulted Indra and Rudra. With them also he drew a blank. Finally, all the
three turned to Vishnu, who said: "In as much as the curses have been already
pronounced, they cannot be revoked, and both parties affected must suffer them. The
problem is how to make them work to their mutual and ultimately universal benefit."

After consideration, Vishnu said: " I shall take up my abode in the Chakra Teertha near
Saalagramama kshetra. You, Devas, shall migrate to this hallowed region as "Vajrakitas"
eating into the pebbles. Gandaki shall in the form of a river fill the universe enveloping
the shilas hallowed by me." Saalagramama stones are obtained only from the river
Gandaki, which is a Himalayan stream, celebrated since antiquity as Narayani,
Saligrami, Hiranvati and Hiranyavati. The epic Mahabharata speaks of its sanctity
(Bhishma-parva) . The puranas also describe it as a sacred stream in which all the gods
and titans abide . By merely looking at it, one would eliminate all his mental defilement’s,
by touching it his bodily sins are burnt up, and by sipping its water the verbal demerits
are thrown out: One who comes into contact with this sacred stream will be liberated
from the cycle of birth and deaths, even if he be a sinner. And for the reason, the river
Gandaki became among all the rivers extraordinarily sacred. Being a mystic river,
looking at it, touching it, bathing in it and sipping its waters will be conductive to eliminate
all sins, even the greatest of sins pertaining to the body, speech and mind.

Saalagram Sloka:

    dheya sada savitra mandala madhya-varti--- naryanah sarasijasana sannivistah

keyuravan makara kundalavan kiriti --hari hiranmaya vapuh dhrita sankha cakrah

Qaoya sada saaiva~ maMDla maQyaavatI- naarayaNa sarisajaasana sainnaivaYz

koyaUrvana makrakuMDla vanakRit hirihrNyamaya vapu QaRtSaMK cak/
Narayana is the Supreme Personality of Godhead to be meditated upon in the center of
the sun globe. He is situated on a lotus flower and seated in the lotus posture. He is
adorned with beautiful golden bracelets, amulets, earrings, necklace and a crown. He
has the golden effulgence and is seen holding the pure white conch and Sudarshana
cakra in His lotus hands. Oh wielder of the conch, disc, club, and other natural weapons,
You are the Lord and resident of the spiritual realm. Oh indestructible one, protector of
the worlds, oh lotus eyed Lord, please save all of us who have taken shelter of you and
appear before us .

Interesting Facts About This Divya Desam:

• Muktinath in Nepal is an important pilgrimage site for Vaishnavites and

Buddhists.
• It is one of the eight swayam vyakta kshetrams-out of this 4 are in southern India
and 4 in Northern India.

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• in Northern India, Perumal has manifested Himself in the form of forest at

Naimisaranyam, as water in Pushkar, as mountain in Badri and as Fossils in
Saalagramam whereas in rest of India, Perumal is in Archa form (Tirumala,
Srirangam) ,
• The best season to visit is during March-April and during September to 1s week
of October
• May to August is rainy season and is not advisable to go
• As a visit to this place bestows liberation, this kshetram is known as Mukthi
kshetram and Perumal as MUKTHI NARAYANAN.
• The sthala mahatyam is mentioned in Skanda Purana, Varaha Purana, Padma
Purana and Mahabharata.
• As per Padma Purana, a Brahmana who has undergone Pancha samskaram and
has bath in Holy Gandaki and have Muktinarayanan’s darshanam, will be
bestowed with liberation.

¾ The significance of Saalagramama kshetra is vividly mentioned in Himavat kanda of

Skanda Purana wherein Lord Subramanya explains to Sage Agastya about this
kshetram and its mahatyam.
¾ In Varaha Purana, Lord Vishnu Himself explains to Bhoodevi about the importance of
this kshetram and the various theerthams in Someswar, Harihar and Mukthinath
kandas.

• This place is surrounded by two rivers- the Matsyangadi in the East and the Kali
Gandaki in the West.
• Kali Gandaki is famous for the shaligrama shilas as well as the world’s deepest
gorge.
• Due to intense meditation, Lord Vishnu started sweating from behind His ears. This
transformed into river and as it originated from Gandam (the spot behind ear), she is
known as Gandaki” river.

¾ As all the major rivers in Northern India like Ganges, Yamuna, Saraswati are
associated with Lord Vishnu, Gandaki river did severe penance and God granted
her wish by residing on the banks of the river and thus made it holy. Gandaki
river is treated at par with Ganges.
¾ The river Gandaki is a very ancient river; and the geologists say that it existed
even before the formation of the Himalayan ranges. It rises beyond the
Himalayan ranges, probably in Tibet, and flows (in the north-south direction) into
Nepal. And for the reason, the river Gandaki became among all the rivers
extraordinarily sacred. Being a mystic river, looking at it, touching it, bathing in it
and sipping its waters will be conducive to eliminate all sins, even the greatest of
sins pertaining to the body, speech and mind. My soul danced with joy looking at
the nature and being in Gods own world.
¾ Varaha Purana mentions that Perumal conceded to Gandaki’s request to be born
as her son and hence Perumal manifested Himself as salagrams in water. Due
to the Perumal’s presence, this has become the most sanctifying river and a dip
in this frees one from all sins committed by thought, word and action in
innumerable lifetimes, forefathers shall reach heaven and finally attain moksha.
¾ Near to this place is Someshwar , a mountain which is the abode of Shiva where
he has manifested himself as linga

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¾ The vast tract of land through which the sacred Gandaki flows is known as
Saalagramama kshetra. As this area was full of “sala” trees, it is known thus.
¾ Lord Vishnu with all the demigods is present in the form of Saalagramams .
These Saalagramams are worshipped in all the major temples across the globe.
¾ Tulasi, wife of the demon Sankhachoodan cursed Lord Vishnu to become a
stone as the Lord as part of His divya leela , deceived her. Hence, Lord has
taken this form as this is an easier form of worship. The bones of
Sankachoodan who was killed by Lord Shiva turned into conches and Tulasi
transformed herself into Gandaki river. The tresses of Tulasi turned into Tulasi
bushes. As per Tulasi’s request, Lord conceded to remain as stone on the banks
of Gandaki river.
¾ Lord summoned the divine architect, Viswakarma to make different images of
Him indicating Lords’ various manifestations and accordingly, Viswakarma
transformed himself into vajrakreeta worm and made various signs inside the
Saalagramamam stone with its sharp nails.
¾ The origin of these saligramams are at Damodar kund which is another 2 / 3
days trek from Muktinath and special trekking permit is required from Nepalese
government as it is at a higher altitude. These stones mingle with the Gandaki
river which has its origin beyond Damodar Kund and gets deposited along the
river side. Damodar kund is the place where Nalakuvera and Manigriva , the
sons of Kubera who were redeemed from their curse by Lord Krishna as
Damodara had bath as per Lords’ instructions and attained effulgent bodies.
Hence, this kund is known as Damodar Kund. Just by visiting and bathing in this
one attains the ability to achieve all his desired objectives and become a
detached person even if he is a householder and will not be troubled by pleasure
or pain.
¾ Any fossil stone found on the banks of Gandaki river is deemed to be saligramam
especially the ones with marks of discus are manifestations of the Supreme Lord,
Sriman Narayanan.
¾ As a householder may find it difficult to offer prayers by doing homa etc. daily as
in earlier yuga, Perumal has manifested Himself in this form which does not
require any purificatory rite. The aaradhana can be started directly and is very
simple. Aaradhana to Saalagramam is to be done with tulasi leaves placed on
conch and water to be poured on the saalagramam through the nose of the
conch.
¾ Any act at this place fetches manifold benefits on the doer
¾ Hardly two minutes walk from the temple leads to Jwalamukhi, the place where
Brahma did penance for universal welfare and he invoked Lord Vishnu in the
form of water and Shiva in the form of fire and offered sacrificial butter and
payasam. All the demigods personally attended the sacrifice and accepted the
offerings. The remnants of this yagyna which is in the form of soil near by is
partaken by devotees as prasadam.
¾ Brahma performed 3 types of yagas at this place-Dravya yagya (sacrifice with
materials), gyana yagya (mental sacrifice-in the sacrificial fire of minds with the
sacrified spatula of breath he meditated on the Supreme Lord Narayana and
burnt the material contamination in the form of offerings.), upsasana yagya.
¾ Any living being which dies in this place attains moksham.
¾ At a particular place between the temple and Jwalamukhi, one can hear the
sound of Ganges flowing into the Patalalok.

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¾ In Varaha Purana, Lord Varaha mentions about the importance of various

theertha and the results of having bath in those many of which are in different
locations on the mountain. He also mentions about Someswhar, the abode of
Lord Shiva and the benefits of worshipping Him.
¾ Many devotees and rishis like Ambarisha, Pundareeka etc have attained
liberation after visiting this place.
¾ As per Mahabaarata, King Bharath after renouncing his kingdom reached this
kshetram and performed austerity. Tthis place is known as Galeshwar and there
is a temple dedicated to Harihar Galeswarnath. Shiva is present in the form of
Sadguru Yogeshwar and Vishnu as Lord Jadeshwar.

Saalagramam and its importance:

¾ Saalagramams are small fossils beautifully carved by Vajrakreetam (an insect)

and are available in and on the banks of River Kali Gandaki in Nepal.

¾ These are considered divine manifestations of Perumal and hence they don’t
need any special consecration rituals to be performed.
¾ There is no dosham to Saalagramams and even it is broken due to accident or
naturally, the divinity is said to exist.
¾ The water which is used for performing abhishekam to saalagramam bestows
liberation to the person who drinks it knowingly or unknowingly. This practice is
followed even today in all Vaishnava house when a soul departs from a body.
¾ Saaligrama aaradhana is always to be done with conch and tulasi.
¾ In the Skanda Purana, Skanda classifies the types of Saalagramam to Sage
Agastya :-
o Lord Varaha:- two proportionate marks of discusses on the face of
Saalagramam
o Lrod Vasudeva:- white in colour, very attractive, 2 proportionate marks of
discus
o Lord Pradhyumna:- long, yellowish, with small marks of discus and with
many faces (surfaces)
o Lord Aniruddha:- dark saalgiram with marks of three lines and a lotus
o Lord Narayana:- dark with features of Aniruddha and has a protruding
navel with marks of discus.
o Lord Matsya:- saligramam with a depressed top and a bulge on both the
sides
o Lord Kurma:- very bright three faced Saalagramam with signs of either
conches or discus
o Lord Narasimha:- very bright brown coloured Saalagramam with signs of
three lines and two different discus- only brahmachary should worship
this.

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o Lord Lakshmi Narasimha:- salagram with signs of two discusses to the

left and hallow –this bestows both material pleasures and liberation.
o Lord Vamana:- meroonish coloured Saalagramam in the shape of a globe
with 5 lines
o Lord Balarama:-a conch shaped, yellowish tinged Saalagramam with the
marks of plough.
o Lord Rama:- a conch shaped, yellowish tinged Saalagramam with the
marks of bow
o Lord Parasurama:- a conch shaped, yellowish tinged Saalagramam with
the marks of axe
o Lord Sudarshana:- reddish flower like Saalagramama with a blackish
discus
o Lord Damodara”- big Saalagramam with sudarshana features and with
signs of mace and discus to the left, a line on the right and narrow in the
middle with signs of discus.
o Lord Paramesti:- Saalagramam with signs of white lotus and discus
o Lord Sridhara:- yellowish black bud shaped Saalagramam with signs of
two big discus on the back, five lines in the form of a mace and vanamala
o Lord Trivikrama:- bright dark coloured Saalagramam with signs of
kadamba flower going from bottom to top on both sides
o Lord Hayagriva:- green tinged Saalagramam with manyhallows and signs
of hook shaped discus and a line of knowledge
o Lord Gadadhara:- saaligram with 3 lines and any three signs

o Lord Ananta:- saaligram with many faces and signs of many bows
clubbed together in the form of a serpent

o Lord Krishna:- dark coloured Saalagramam with the sign of a vanamala to

its right - this grants health, pleasures, and fulfills all sorts of desires

SRI SRIDEVI NAYIKA SAMETHA SRI SRIMOORTHY PARABRAHMANE

NAMAH:
MOOLAVAR SRI MOORTHI IN VEETRUIRUNDHA THIRUKOLAM
FACING NORTH also known as MUKTHI
NARAYANAN
THAYAR SRIDEVI, BHOODEVI IN NINDRA THIRUKOLAM
VIMANAM KANAKA
THEERTHAM GANDAKI RIVER, CHAKRA THEERTHAM
PRATHYAKSHAM BRAHMA, SIVA, GANDAKI, GARUDA, VINAYAGAR
MANGALASAASANAM THIRUMANGAI AZHWAR- 10 PASURAMS-988 to
997, PERIAZWAR- 2 PASURAMS(206, 399)
OTHER VIGRAHAMS GARUDA, BUDDHA, VINAYAGAR
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In Peria Thirumozhi, Thirumangai Azhwar has dedicated 10 songs to this divya

desam. In the pasurams, Azhwar advises his mind to go to Saalgramam and
pray to Perumal who
• as Sri Ramar , humiliated Soorpanaka and killed Ravana thus emerging
victorious in the battle,
• as Sri Krishnar who killed Putana, ate butter,
• as Vamanan who approached Bali Chakravarthy and by asking for 3 feet
land measured the 7 universes, ,
• as Sri Narasimha who pierced Hiranya kasapu’s heart,
• as the Lord whose expansions are the Sun, Moon, Ether, Mountains,
Oceans, fire and who is the Preserver of the Universe,
• as the Lord who redeemed Shiva from his curse who was roaming with
kapalam in his hand due to brahma hathi dosha committed by him.

He adds that Perumal who is residing at Thiruooragam(in Kanchipuram), as Perumal

who is in half-reclining posture at Thirukudanthai (Kumbakonam), as Adi Ranganathar
residing on the banks of Kaveri at Thiruppernagar (near Thiruchy), the Lord with
innumerable myriad names (sahasra naamam) is in Saalagramam. He says that all the
demigods, vaishanavas, brahmanas rishis offer prayers to this Lord who is residing in
the mountain which is decorated with varieties of flowers where the honey bees sing
sweetly after sucking the honey from the flowers, where the lakes are filled with lotus
and fish who happily jump about. In the set of 10 pasurams, Azhwar advises his mind to
go to Saalagramam and offer obeisance to the Supreme Personality of Godhead,
Sriman Narayanan. He further advises to either continuously recite the innumerable
names of the Lord or recite the 10 pasurams on this Perumal.

Periazhwar has composed 2 pasurams on this divya desam . In pasuram 206, he

narrates that Krishna who stole butter from the gopikas’ house is residing at
Saalagramam. In pasuram 399, while composing hymn on Perumal at Kandum Ennum
Kadinagar (Thirupiridi divya desam popularly known as Jyotir Mutt en route to
Badrinath), he recollects Perumal at Sri Vaikuntam, Saalagramam,Dwaraka,Ayodhya,
Mathura and Badrinath and says that He is the same Lord who is residing at Thirupiridhi.

Divya Kavi Pillai Iyengar who has composed hymns on all the divya desams known as
108 Tirupati Andhadhi mentions that it is futile to be associated with a hoary lineage
/family name / varna/ name instead of being associated with Saalagrama Perumal’s
name. He advises to shed ones ego and advises us to identify ourself as the most
humble servant of the Lord.

14. Gandaki in Nepal:

The Kali Gandaki rises in the Tibetan plateau north of the Himalayas in the Mustang
District of Nepal, near the border with Tibet. The two headwaters of river, Nup Chhu and
Shar Chhu ("West River" and "East River") meet near the town of Lo Manthang in upper
Mustang. The river then flows southwest with the name of Mustang Khola. In Kagbeni a

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major tributary, Kak Khola, coming from Muktinath, meets Mustang Khola; from there,
the river is called the Kali Gandaki (or variously Krishna Gandaki).

The river then flows southward through a steep gorge known as the Kali Gandaki
Gorge, or Andha Galchi, between the mountains Dhaulagiri (8167 m) to the west and
Annapurna (8091 m) to the east. If one measures the depth of a canyon by the
difference between the river height and the heights of the highest peaks on either side,
the Gorge is the world's deepest. The portion of the river between the Dhaulagiri and
Annapurna massifs is at an elevation of between 1300 metres and 2600 metres[2], 5500
to 6800 metres lower than the two peaks. The river is older than the Himalayas. As
tectonic activity forces the mountains higher, the river has cut through the uplift.

South of the gorge, the river is joined by Rahught Khola at Galeshwor, Myagdi Khola at
Beni, Modi Khola near Kushma and Badigaad at Rudrabeni. The river then takes a right-
angle turn and runs east along the northern edge of the Mahabharat Range. The largest
hydroelectricity project in Nepal is located along this stretch of the river. Turning south
again and breaking through the Mahabharats, Kali Gandaki is then joined by a major
tributary, Trishuli at Devighat, then by the (East) Rapti draining the Inner Terai valley
known as Chitwan. The Gandaki then crosses the outermost foothills of the Himalayas --
Sivalik Hills -- into the Terai plains of Nepal. From Devighat, the river flows southwest
and is known as Narayani or Sapt Gandaki. The river later curves back towards the
southeast as it enters India.

15. Gandaki in India

The river flows southeast across the Gangetic plain of Bihar state, eventually merging
with the Ganga near at Hajipur, or Patna.The entry point of the river at the Indo-Nepal
border is also the confluence of Gandak, known as Triveni, with rivers Pachnad and
Sonha also descending into India from Nepal.Pandai river flows into Bihar (India) from
Nepal in the eastern end of the Valmiki Sanctuary and meets Masan. its drainage area in
India is 7620 sqkm. After the river enters India at Triveni, it travels for a further length of
300 km before it joins the Ganga, just downstream of Hajipur at Sonepur (also known as
Harihar Kshetra), near Patna. Before joining the river Ganga near patna, it flows through
Champaran, Saran and Muzaffarpur districts. The total length of the river is 630 km out
of which 330 km lies in Nepal and Tibet.
It is said that the Gandak River has shifted about 80 km to the east due to tilting in the
last 5000 years. The Gandak plains, called the Gandak Megafan comprises Eastern
Uttar Pradesh and North Western Bihar and lies in the Middle Gangetic Plains.

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