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AN AMERICAN SOLDIER UNDER THE GREEK FLAG AT BEZANIE
A THRILLING STORY OF THE SIEGE OF BEZANIE BY THE GREEK ARMY, IN EPIRUS, DURING THE WAR IN THE BALKANS.
By T.
S.
HUTCHISON
Brigadier-General, National Guard of Tennessee (Retired)
PRICE
$2.00
1913
GRBBK-AMRICAN PUBUaHING COMPANY

NASHVILLE, TENN.
'
^%
Copyright, 1913,
By
Brigadier-General Thos.
S.
Hutchison.
f.
t'
To
the
patriotic
Greeks
of
America, who so cheerfully and liberally donated their means to

the Greek
to the
Eed Cross
Society
and
left
young Greek
heroes,
who
their homes, friends
and business
fight for the
in America, to go
and
land of their birth, in the war with the cruel Turk, this volume is dedicated
by the
Author.
284409
<Via^cjU-
Editor's Preface
Colonel
Thomas
S.
Hutchison of Tennes-
see has recently returned from Greece, where he has been serving as a volunteer in the Greek army. His long service as a soldier reads like a novel. His military career
started
when he was a boy seventeen years
joined the famous Washington Artillery of Tennessee, as a private soldier, and while a member of that battery saw hard
of age.
service in the mountains of East Tennessee
He
during the mining troubles that so frequently occurred. He remained a private soldier only a very short while, as he was quick to
learn,
and was rapidly promoted
to
Gun
Corporal,
Gim
Sergeant,
Quartermaster-
finally became the First Sergeant of the battery. He had held all of the positions from private to first sergeant. The
Sergeant, and
sergeant of a battery is the captain's right hand man, and while occupying this
first
position, his energy
and
ability attracted
the attention of Gov. Taylor, who, realizing that a war with Spain was inevitable, and
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
that the State would be called on to furnish
commissioned Sergeant Hutchison Second Lieutenant of Artillery. He held this position a few months, and the Governor told him if he would organize another battery he would be its captain. The result was the Lieutenant formed another battery and the Governor commissioned him Captain. About this time war was declared with Spain, and the young ofScer was immediately transferred to the Second Regiment
troops,
of Infantry as Captain of Company D, where he served during the Spanish- Ameri-
can war with credit to the State and to himWhen peace was declared between self. Spain and the United States he was honorably discharged, and returned to his home
in Tennessee,
and the Governor of the State, Governor Benton McMillin, immediately commissioned him Captain of Company K of the Fifth Eegiment. He remained a captain only a few days, and was then commissioned Lieutenant-Colonel of the same regiment, and a week later was made the Colonel of
it
still
a boy, only 22 years of age.
UNDER THE GREEK FLAG
He
served as
its
Colonel for five years and
during that time commanded all the troops of Tennessee, as he was the ranking officer
of the State.
rules
During
this time he
wrote the
and regulations that govern the military forces of Tennessee, which have been pronounced by military experts as one of the best works on military science that
have been written.
After serving continfor nine he uously years voluntarily went on the retired list as a Brigadier-General.
Colonel Hutchison was not to be permitted remain on the retired list, as the Governor
to
of Tennessee, Malcolm R. Patterson, appointed him the Commissary General of the
and also a member of his personal military staff, which office he held with marked
State,
ability, as his
previous training fitted him
for the post.
About
this time the
Mayor
of Nashville
Hutchison one of the Police Commissioners of the city, and he did much towards improving the conditions of the police department in making new rules and regulations, the result of which was to make
appointed Col.
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
the force a fine disciplined body of officers. Colonel Hutchison at this time saw the needs
of a commission to regulate the cruelty to dumb animals, and that something must be
done to protect and care for the youth and children of the city and with his ability as
;
an organizer he went before the Legislature of Tennessee and had a commission created in the city, and it is recognized as one of the main arms of the city government of Nashville, and cruelty to animals is a thing of
the past and, as for the care of the juveniles of the city, Nashville is far in advance of
;
most any American city. As soon as the commission was appointed Colonel Hutchi^rai was made a member of the body, and the commission soon organized a corps of officers and cleaned up Nashville of brutal drivers of animals. The commission also organized the Juvenile Court of the city, which is doing more good in the Parents or city than can be estimated. guardians must care for the children or the Humane Commission will. The comimission is saving hundreds of boys and girls an-
Thos.
S.
Hutchison, Major of Artillery, Kingdom of Greece, Legion of Garibaldi.
Prince Constantine, Commander-in-Chief of Greek Army.
(Now King
of Greece.)
",
J.J
' J
>
>
>
> J J
'
King George of Greece.
Assassinated March
i8,
1913-
AM;/-Mvit..iA.x
Thos.
S.
Hutchison, Brigadier General tional Guard of Tennessee, U.
S.
(Retired) A.
Na-
nually from lives of idleness and shame, providing homes for the destitute and abandoned, and causing the young to be placed in
good homes and amidst decent surroundings. Last October while in New York on business connected with the Progressive party, as Colonel Hutchison is a great friend and admirer of his war-time friend, Colonel Roosevelt of the Rough Riders, and seeing that the Colonel was defeated, he became interested in the struggles of the Balkan allies in the war that is raging with Turkey;
and meeting numbers of Greek volunteers that were going to the kingdom, and
listening to their tales of the cruelties of the Turks, he decided to accompany the Greeks
to their country and volunteer his services. The result was that he boarded the Austro-
Americano ship Laura on the 13th of November and on the 27th of the same month found himself in Greece, where he was immediately commissioned a Major of Artillery in the legion of Garibaldi, a part of the Greek army. He was sent at once to Epirus in Turkey in Europe with the Fifteenth
10
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
Regiment of Greek Infantry and some eight batteries of artillery, where he participated in the various battles and assaults of the Greek army on the Turkish forts of Bezanie,
the strong fortress that guards the city of
Janina.
Colonel Hutchison has returned to the
United States, and his experiences and observations of the Gxeek army are interesting and thrilling. While in the army he took careful notes and memoranda of the operations of the Greek and Turkish armies;
therefore, his opinions are valuable. During his sojourn in the kingdom, he met Mr. Ven-
and the foremost men of the nation, and being an astute observer, he had splenizelos
did opportunities to gain much information of the government, the people and the country.
spent some time in Turkey, also in Italy, Africa, Spain and Portugal. His services in the Greek army were simply that of a high-minded and patriotic friend of the cause, as he declined compen-
He
from the government. The only compensation he received was for his military
sation

equipment, some 450 drachms, or $90.00,
11
-.
al-
though the government was willing to furnish him his transportation but in his own
;
characteristic language to the war department he remarked that he came to ^^help
Greece, not to bleed her." While in Turkey in Europe he saw the
thousands of refugees the Turkish soldiers had rendered homeless, and his stories of their cruelties and barbarism would appal
the civilized world.
loud in his praise of the Greek soldier, as he was with them constantly and witnessed their conduct under every circumstance. He does not believe the Greek soldier has a superior in Europe and as to the Greek sailors, they have no supeis
;
Colonel Hutchison
riors.
The newspapers of Greece and America have commented at length on the American volunteer, as it was unique, to say the least,
he being the only foreign officer in the army who was permitted to be with the
Greek army in the various
battles before the
12
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
stronghold. The Athens Times, published in Athens, Greece, says '^Colonel Hutchison is a man of the great-
Turkish
est honor.
He
is
a friend of Greece.
He
came to Greece to fight for the right. The American General, Thomas Hutchison, who was engaged at first with the Garibaldi legion, afterward went to the regular army
at Epirus. He fought in several engagements at Bezanie, and in the last engage-
ment he was wounded by a bursting shell, on which account he was compelled to leave the army and return to America. The Patras Times, published in Patras,
' '
Greece, says ^^The American, Colonel Hutchison, who has come to Greece, and taken part in the
:
war, has been attached to the Fifteenth Infantry, and has fought in several battles at Bezanie. He was wounded and returned
to Phillipada
and is in the hospital." The Nashville Banner says ** Still nursing an injury he received while fighting under the Greek flag at the terrible eleven-day siege at the bombardment of the
:
13
Turkish forts of Janina, Col. Tom Hutchison has returned to his home in Nashville,
where he was given a hearty welcome by

Nashville Greeks, who gathered at the home of his brother, Albert Hutchison, No. 1610 Division street, Thursday night. ^*Col. Hutchison, though in Greece but a
few months, had numerous interesting experiences, of which he talks entertainingly, and when he recounted some of these to his Greek visitors Thursday night their appreciation of him knew no bounds. Headed by the Greek consul, the party gave him a rousing ovation in their impassioned manner,
shaking his hand and applauding his compliments to their native people as soldiers. ^În a short address Consul Panagiotopoulos said to Col. Hutchison that he had made history for himself and the Greeks, and that he is doubly dear to them since he went to
the front under their flag and was wounded in the cause for which .the army is now fighting.
Colonel Hutchison was notified that a
formal welcome of more ceremony than the visit will be given him by the Greeks, the
14
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
date to be fixed by himself. He has not decided on the date at this time, as he is still
suffering from the effects of his wound and the exposure. ** Colonel Hutchison, who is a veteran of
the Spanish- American war, went to Greece as a volunteer, because he desired to see a
European war.
He
selected Greece as the
country of his choice, believing that he would get a better idea of the real fighters in the
says he was not disappointed, and speaks highly of the Greek as a soldier and patriot.
Balkan
trouble.
He
MAJOR OF ARTILLERY. ^*Col. Hutchison was given a commission as major of artillery and assigned to Gen. Garibaldi's command, and his experience in reaching his command is interesting. His first smell of powder was when, on board a transport en route to his command, his ship went into a harbor believed to be friendly, but was fired upon by either the Albanians or a small detachment of Turks. It had no defense, and immediately steamed out of the
15
harbor, and was forced to take a circuitous route back through Greece to reach its destination.
^^
Colonel Hutchison was one of a staff of
escorted 2,700 Turkish prisoners to the Island of Corfu. This band of

officers
who
prisoners was captured by Prince Constantine in one of his battles.
found only three of that large number of Turks able to read or write,' said Colonel
*I
*^
Hutchison.
'^They are the most ignorant
set of people on the face of the globe. are entirely unfit for self-government.
They
Their
villages
and towns are just as they were hundreds of years ago. There is no sign of progress among them no ambition or de-
sire to
improve their conditions.
It is a
creditable act to kill a
human
crime to slay an animal, Turkish territory is overrun with cats and dogs. This condition exists all over the Ot-
being, but a and the whole
toman empire.'
**
GREEKS ARE FEARLESS. Colonel Hutchison relates

of
instances
the
patriotism
numerous and fear-
16
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
^During the siege of
lessness of the Greek.
Janina/ said
he, 'I witnessed
an instance of
astonishing boldness on the part of two
Greek women. One day we sighted through glasses two women coming down a slope that was swept by shot and shell from the Turkish forts so fiercely that we thought no human being could live. Watching them we saw them make for the hill where our battalion was fighting. When they reached the command they said they had come to bring a son and nephew blankets. They had dared
almost certain death for the comfort of their
kin.
the
saw a gunner deliberately stand in way of an avalanche of rocks knocked from the mountains by a shell, and save himÎ
"
self
by sheer boldness. As the tons of stone
into the air just in time to allow it to go under his feet. He alighted on top of it uninjured.'
rolled
down he leaped
^^His description of the actions of Major Doulous, in command of the battalion he
was with, in riding over exposed territory back and forth between the two sections of
Loving Cup Presented to Col. Hutchison
1!Y
the Greek
Colony of Nashville, Tenn.
.\
:: /::':'
UN0ER THE GREEK FLAG

his
17
command,
is tErilling.
He
is
writing an
extensive magazine story of his experiences in the Greek army.

**
Colonel Hutchison
is
profuse in his
praise of the Greeks, saying that as soldiers and sailors they are the equal of the Americans.
While entertaining the Greeks at his home, Colonel Hutchison wore the Garibaldi
habilaments.''
^*
The Nashville Democrat says *' About fifty Nashville Greeks gathered Thursday night at the home of Albert
:
Hutchison to extend their greetings to Colonel Tom Hutchison, who has just returned from the Balkan war, where he underwent active service against the Turks, and where he was severely wounded. The local Greeks knew that the Tennessee fighter would arrive in Nashville this week, and had planned to meet him at the train with appropriate ceremonies of honor, but he came in Thursday morning in advance of the schedule which they expected. However, the reception which was given the Colonel Thursday
18
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
night showed plainly the deep appreciation in which his services to the Greek flag are
held.
*^
Colonel Hutchison was
wounded about
weeks ago while engaged in the siege of After spending some time in two Greek Red Cross hospitals he left the service and took passage for New York. There he again received medical attention, and has returned little the worse for his strenuous experiences in the fight against the Turk. His hearing was temporarily impaired from the shrapnel wound which he received, but under the attention of medical experts in
six
Janina.
he recovered almost completely. ^^The meeting between the Tennessee volunteer and the Nashville Greeks Thursday night was very impressive. His account of the battles in which he was engaged and the expression of his views as to the general outlook in the war. at present, were listened to with rapt attention. **In a graphic manner he told of the engagement in which he was woimded. He said that he had stooped, under heavy fire.
New York

to lift a
19
young Greek boy's head in
his
arms
while he breathed his last, when a shrapnel struck a rock near him. piece of this rock
him in his head and knocked him unconscious, and he later awoke in a Red Cross
struck
tent.
**He told of his impressions as to the various points of strength of the two armies. He said that he had never seen any body of soldiers which excelled the Greeks in patriotism
They are utterly indifferent to death,' he added. The Turkish army, according to Colonel Hutchison, has
been organized under the German system, but their soldiers and officers are in naany
and bravery.
ways inferior
to the Greeks.
the solicitation of the Greeks present Thursday night Colonel Hutchison donned
the Greek imiform in which he fought. It was one of the famous Garibaldi regalias, as
"At
he was Major of Artillery under Garibaldi, a son of the famous Italian liberator general.
His cap
still
shows the hole through which
entered the piece of stone that caused the Colonel's wound. As his recent illness has
20
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
him rather weakened Colonel Hutchison
left
had
to cut short the account of his experiences, but promised to go more into details
at his next meeting
with
the
Nashville
Greeks.
**Panteles Panagiotopoulos made a short address in behalf of the local Greeks, and
said that they were all very
proud of the
part which Col. Hutchison has played in the Balkan war. He further stated that a reception
had been planned for Colonel Hutchison by the Greeks of Tennessee, and
that the date should be left for his

lection.
own
se-
Mr. Panagiotopoulos stated to a Tennessean and American reporter later that the Greek residents of the State also plan to present Colonel Hutchison with a handsome loving cup, sword, or some other fitting token of their appreciation.'' The Nashville Tennessean and American
says:
^Â beautiful silver loving cup was presented Simday night to Colonel Thos. S. Hutchison by the Greek citizens of Nashville in
appreciation of his services to the
21
Greek cause in the war against Turkey. It will be remembered by the public of the city that Col. Hutchison enlisted in the Greek army several months ago, and at once sought
active service, being later forced to leave the war on account of a wound which he re-
ceived in the head.

is a large and very arwas token, presented Colonel Hutchison by Panteles Panagiotopoulos, Greek consul to the port of Nashville. The pre-
**The cup, which
tistic
sentation occurred at Mr. Hutchison's
home
on Division street, where about fifty Greek citizens and a few close friends were assembled. As he delivered this token of appreciation, Mr. Panagiotopoulos spoke as follows:
*The Greek newspapers gave a very appreciative account of your gallant service
while in the Greek
**
army
before the
fifth,
strongest fortification in the world, that of Bezani. mountain 6,000 feet high, with 150 modern cannon, and the freezing weath-
rain and snow, which lasted four months, did not keep the Greeks back. They stormed,.
er,
22
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
climbed and fmally overwhelmed the army, capturing 32,000 Turks, and the historic
Janina saw the Greek soldiers like angels bringing them freedom after 500 years of slavery under the unspeakable Turk.
city of
'This will only add another chapter to the wonderful achievements of the Greek
nation,
'*
and in that volume we
will see with
pride, Colonel Hutchison, your
representing a noble and brave Tennessean of the United States of America, who risked his
life in
name
a strange land to help in such a vic-
tory.
*The Greek citizens of Nashville in presenting to you this slight token of their appreciation of your service to their fatherland feel certain that it voices the sentiments
of the entire Greek nation.
is
**
Hutchison,
This, Colonel the meaning of the Greek in-
scription on this loving cup.'
TOAST FROM CUP.

**The cup was
filled
with Greek brandy,

it
and a
toast
was drunk from
to the
Greek
|v
23
cause, every one present joining in the toast. Col. Hutchison responded modestly to the
invitation of those present gave of his experiences before Janina.

**
remarks of Mr. Panagiotopoulos, and at the an account

Laurent Brown made a short talk, which was very much enjoyed by the assembly. He
of Colonel lauded the self-abnegation in Hutchison leaving his business, home and native land to assist a small nation in the far East which he had never seen before. He attributed this act to an inherent love for a
an enemy of freedom and civilization, added to an appreciation of the great debt which the whole world owes to " the cradle of civilization.'
good
fight against
*
Greece,
Preface
To
the patriotic
and liberty-loving people of free America:

it
a duty to give you the benefit of my experiences and observations of the Grreek, or Hellenic, people and their country
as viewed dier in
I feel
by myself while serving as a solthe Greek army in the war that is
raging in Turkey in Europe between the Balkan allies Greece, Bulgaria, Servia and Montenegro, the federation that is fighting their old-time and ancient enemy, Turkey; and especially to tell you of the fidelity, patriotism and glorious courage of the Greek soldier as a warrior in actual battle. I take great pride in writing you of the
Greek army in the various battles of Janina and their attacks on the Turkish forts of Bezanie. Fort Bezanie is the strong fortress that guards the city of Janina in the state of Epirus. Janina is situated in the mountains of Turkey on the shores of Lake Janina, and
assaults of the
bombardments and
26
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
here the Turkish
it is
army is making its last

and
and desperate
effort to hold the land
people that rightfully belong to Greece. The Turk and his minions have held this country
and these people in little less than bondage for nearly five hundred years. The Turk must go. It is right that he should. He is of no value to civilization. Humanity and modern progress
demand
his retirement to Asia.
My
whole service in the campaign was
with the Greek regular army and the Greek volunteers, especially with the Fifteenth
Regiment of Greek Infantry, and their field batteries of artillery. While I was an ofiScer
in the Legion of Garibaldi attempting to join the Garibaldi corps at Metsova, I became
connected with the Greek army at Janina and remained with them during the storming of the Turkish forts that defend the city of Janina. I had every opportimity to witness the conduct of the Greek soldiers during the
bombardment, and it is terest you in this story.
my
endeavor to in-
TINDER
THE GREEK FLAG
27
CHAPTER
I.
The Colonel Decides to Help the Greeks. I was in New York City on business connected with the Progressive party, doing my best to elect Colonel Theodore Roosevelt President of the iTJnited States. He was a
veteran of the Spanish- American war. I knew him and admired him as a statesman and a soldier. The election came on while I
was in New York, and, seeing that the colonel was defeated, and, not feeling comfortable over the results, naturally I was looking for
new fields of excitement. One day I went down to the Battery, and
thousands and
while at the Battery saw thousands of Greek patriots ship that was leaving the mother country. I talked
boarding every
port for their
to
numbers of
them and became
interested in their war.
Their enthusiasm and patriotism became contagious, and I agreed with a niunber of these men to go with them and help them in their war with Turkey. The result was that on the thirteenth day of November I found
28
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
myself on board the Austro-Americano ship Laura, a large and elegant steamship bound for Patras, the first port of Greece. There were on board the ship a thousand enthusipatriotic Greek volimteers, all rushing to the Hellenic kingdom to volunteer their services.
astic
and
old-time
Greece was in the midst of a war with her Allied with enemy, the Turk. Greece in this war were the Bulgarians, Servians and Montenegrins. All of these
properly called the Balkan States, had joined hands in a common cause to drive the Turk out of civilized Europe back into Asia with the rest of her hordes.
states,
Numerous
age to Greece.
incidents occurred on the voyThe first five days out of New
York, the ocean was rough, and most of the
men were
seasick.
One cause
of their sea-
sickness was, before leaving New York, numbers of the Greek boys had been rather
extensively wined and dined. And it is well known that the rolling and pitching of a ship are very disagreeable if you happen to
have any wine or liquor in your system.
As
29
soon as the vessel reached the Azores Islands the sea became calm, and the volmiteers com-
menced
to liven up. Most of them had spent their time in their staterooms, but as the
water was
and the
now smooth they came on deck ship took on new life. The volun-
teers played all kinds of games, including
poker, seven-up, hearts, pitch, and of evenings the captain would bring out a roulette wheel, when all would gamble in a small way.
As I had but very
little
money, I did not do
any gambling, but spent
my time in the main
cabin studying the artillery tactics of the United States army, for it was my ambition I knew to get into the Greek artillery.
nothing of the tactics of the Greek artillery, but I knew one thing: that a cannon fired in the American style was about as effective
European style. I spent large parts of the day in drilling numas
any gun
fired in the
bers of the volunteers on the deck of the ship ; so, between my studies in the evenings and drilling the boys during the day, my time
was well occupied. The first land we sighted after the Azores
.30
AN AMEBICAN SOLDIER
cliffs
was the rocky

braltar.
of Portugal
and Spain.
We finally entered the narrow straits of GiThese

straits separate
Europe and
It was very early in the morning, while we were passing through, a large and, niunber of the volunteers became very en-
Africa.
thusiastic at the sight of land, and as all had been taking too much koniak, the fim be-
They threw their hats, canes, collars neckties, some coats and vests, into the water; and one boy who had eyeglasses pitched them in at the suggestion of an engan.
and
thusiastic Greek.
Finally the vessel passed
through, and the crowd retired to their state-
rooms
to rest.
all
showed up bright and smiling. Now and then one would look a little sheepish, and when some officer of the vessel would ask him about his coat or glasses, the volunteer would smile and sneak
soon as he could. Finally the ship arrived at the city of Algiers. Algiers is a country in northern Africa, the ancient Numidia and eastern Mauritania. It was organized as a colonial possession of France
off as
The next morning

in 1834.
31
Algiers was of considerable interest to me, an American, as I was always an
admirer of Stephen Decatur, one of oxir first naval commanders, wlio had charge of the
war the United

1815.
expedition against the Dey of Algiers in the States had with them in
The captain of the ship was kind enough

to send the boys ashore, but he cautioned them to be on board not later than seven
o'clock in the evening. The vessel had to take coal at this port, and I enjoyed seeing
the grimy looking, bare-footed Arabs, with baskets of coal on their heads, rushing from the coal barges to the ships with their heavy loads. The vessel had to anchor about a
mile from the docks, as the harbor was crowded with shipping.
Before the ship cast her anchors, the Greeks on board happened to spy a large col-
Greek navy. She was a large veshad and come to Algiers for coal for the sel, Greek fleet. The vessel was flying the white and blue colors of the Hellenic kingdom. The
lier of the
sight of their flag aroused the boys to a high
32
AN AMEBIOAN SOLDIER
and they cheered the vessel repeatedly. volunteer on our ship became so excited that he climbed to the highest mast of the
pitch,
hundred feet above the water, and made a bold and daring leap over the side of the vessel into the sea. He came up like a cork and swam rapidly around the
ship, at least a
This incident attracted the attention of the passengers and crews of all the vessels in the harbor, and when they saw the boy swim swiftly around the ship and hauled
vessel.
Greek ship, the cheering was loud and long. It seemed that this Greek volunteer was only a sample of the rest of the men who composed the Greek navy. He was perfectly at home in the water and made this leap from that high elevation in his enthusiasm at the sight of the Greek flag flying from the collier, without any fear
safely on board the
of danger to himself. I accompanied a number of the volunteers ashore, and the first sight I saw was a crowd of real Simon-pure African negroes grinning and laughing among themselves, just like our own negroes at home. I spoke to
tTNDER
THE GREEK FLAG
33
them and they answered me in French. I told them that I was an American, and it seemed to tickle them very much, and several of them called to me as I was
several of
passing up the dock that they were coming to America as soon as they got the money to pay their passage. I could hear them laughing as I passed on.
a beautiful and modern city with artistic buildings, built by and \ery large the best French architects and engineers. The French part, or European quarter, is as modern and progressive as any city in the world. The streets are well paved, and are The principal kept scrupulously clean. streets were swarming with people, repreAlgiers
is
senting
all
the nations of the civilized world.
We saw elegantly dressed French ladies and

gentlemen wearing the very latest Parisian There were French soldiers, sailors styles. and gendarmes everywhere. Their uniforms were dimply gorgeous. Numbers of Arabs in the French service were unique in their artistic imif orms. There were thousands of quaint Arabs in their peculiar Oriental dress
34
AN AMERICAN
style,
SOLDIER
and
Germans
sented.
well-dressed English, Italians, and Austrians. It is truly a coscity,
mopolitan
and
all
Europe
is
repre-
We
took a carriage drive
through the
streets of Algiers, and, after seeing the business and commercial centers, we went up to
the heights of the town, where are the homes of the well-to-do. Their homes are simply
magnificent, especially the bery and trees are grand.

olive
flowers, shrub-
and palm
trees
Orange, date, were in their yards in

;
the joyous beauties of nature. The city rises to a very great height, and from the elevation we could see the whole panofact, all
rama spread out before us
like a
map.
We
could see lying at anchor in the harbor ships flying their flags from all nations of the
world.
We
could see the buildings of the
city, and I noticed that the city was pracThe houses were built of tically fireproof. and marble, and every one stone, concrete had a tiled roof. There was not a wooden house in the town. The houses that are not
built of
marble are stuccoed with white plas-
35
ter,
giving the whole city a bright and clean
appearance. After seeing the French, or European, part of the city, we were driven to the native, or Arabian, quarter of the town. The Arabs were swarming in their section of the city like busy bees in a hive. These Arabs looked and acted as they did a thousand years ago.
They were solemn,
serious
looking
men,
either walking up and down the street with their eyes cast on the ground or were sitting
cross-legged in their booths or doorways, talking to one another in low tones, and
smoking very long pipes or cigarettes, or drinking strong black Arabian coffee. Their streets are so narrow that two vehicles could not pass each other at the same time. The streets were crowded with little Arabian boys and girls, selling papers, shining shoes,
soliciting alms, or gambling among themselves. They seemed to be inveterate gam-
I watched one of their games, and it was very amusing. One of the boys would place an orange on the ground, and would
blers.
stand above
it
with a copper coin in his
36
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
hand, and the other boys would stand around watching him very intently as he would raise his arm and cast the penny endwise swiftly If the coin adhered to the at the orange.
orange or sunk into it and remained there, the other boys would have to pay the coin
tosser.
If the coin failed to cling to the
orange, the tosser had to pay the other boys money of the same denomination as the one
he was casting.
Sometimes they would get into a violent argument about the game and the crowd would break up in a free-for-all fight, the same as a crowd of American newsboys, showing that human nature is the same
in Africa as elsewhere.
While we were standing in the streets of the native quarter, an Arabian female, closely veiled to the eyes, would swiftly pass, overburdened with modesty, but we saw that even the ironclad customs of the Arabian would not prevent her from glancing at you slyly with her dark, dreamy eyes. The men and women were dressed so much alike that it was difficult to distinguish the male from the female. They all wore gaily colored tur-
37
bans on their heads, and white draperies over their forms, and white sandals on their
stockings, and their legs were usually bare from their knees to their ankles. These Arabs were all shades
feet.
Very few had any
and
colors,
from a very dark brown
to a very
light pink.
After seeing the people, we went to parks and public gardens. They have very largest palms and palmettos that be found. These parks and gardens maintained by the French government,
the
the
can
are
and
are kept in perfect condition. After seeing all wê could of Algiers, we went aboard the Greek collier in the harbor, and the boys compared notes with the Greek
officers of the ship,
and after having several
glasses of mastica in the captain's cabin, we went aboard our own vessel and steamed out
of the harbor.
38
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
CHAPTER
As our
II.
Arrival at Naples.
ship was leaving the port, the government collier sounded three hoarse notes
from her steam whistle as a farewell to us, and the captain of the Austrian ship answered the salute with a few sharp notes from our whistles. We made a quick and
pleasant passage across the Mediterranean The sea was as calm and as smooth as glass, and the scenery of the Italian
to Italy.
and the mainland was gorgeous with high mountains, beautiful cities and quaintislands
Long before we reached we saw the Naples, Castel-del-Ovo, a landmark of Naples founded in 1154, and so named from its oval plan, on a small island,
looking hamlets.
connected with the shore by a causeway. It it now used as a military prison. We also the mountain of Vesuvius. I passed high gazed at this volcanic mountain, and thought of what an awe-inspiring scene it must have been when it erupted in the year 79 when
it
ejected flames that were
seen
at
Con-

stantinople and
at
39
when
it
darkened the earth

all
Campania. The view as we entered the harbor was simply
noonday and ravaged
grand.
Naples
is
a wonderful Italian
city,
great
in historic associations
and rich in
its treas-
ures of art.
We
could see
its fine
public
parks and driveways extending the
full front
of the bay, with a drive way along its sea wall, lined with its fine villas and grand hotels or '^pensions.'' saw the old
We
medieval fortresses, and large blocks of modern business buildings, as the ship came into the harbor. After the ship cast her anchors, we were in the midst of hundreds of vessels lying there, ships flying the flags of all
the nations of the world, as Naples is one of the most important harbors in the Medi-
terranean.
The harbor was

tleships,
filled
with numbers of bat-
cruisers, torpedo boats, gunboats
and big transports the Italian government was using in bringing their sailors and troops from Tripoli, where the war between them and the Turks had been recently con-
40
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
All of their ships were painted a and had a grim war-like ap-
eluded.
dull lead color,
Transports Hvere disembarking thousands and thousands of soldiers and sailors returning from the war. In addition to the troops that were being landed, they were unloading thousands of artillery and cavalry horses and hundreds of pieces of
pearance.
field artillery.
The Greeks on board our ship were keenly interested in these soldiers, as they had been fighting the same enemy that they were preThese Italian troops were fight. of peculiar interest to me, as I had kept up with their war in Tripoli. Every corps had its regiments, uniformed separate from the
paring to
regiments of the other corps. For instance, one regiment of one of the corps would be dressed in a grey uniform and wear a grey hat with a single feather in it. Another regiment would Avear a hat shaped entirely different, with a bunch of long cock feathers fastened jauntily on the side. Another regi-
ment would wear
different colored uniforms, with metal helmets with a high arched piece
*.
:'. :.
E. Venizelos, Prime Minister, the Gladstone of Greece.
Prince Nicholas of Greece.
Gener.'ll Daglis, of
the Greek Army.
<
'
<
<v
'
Matsoukas, Patriot and Pokt.
41
of brass hanging like a plume over the helmet.
One ship was unloading three regiments of Abyssinian troops, and these people were
very interesting to
all.
They were very
slender and short men, as black as the ace of spades. They wore white skirts, or
dresses, to the knees. Their legs were bare from their knees to their ankles. Most of
them Lad bright, scarlet turbans on their heads, and those tliat were not wearing the turbans had large black hats, shaped like a silk hat without any brim, and on the side of the hat was a large pompon with a large red plume, the most gorgeous headdress that
could be made, showing the love of finery that the African troops have. These regi-
ments were the picked soldiers of the Italian army. Their reputation for courage and bravery was established. They had been in the thick of battles in Tripoli, and the Italian officers that I met were loud in praise of their conduct. These troops were from Abyssinia and were the pride of the army. Some of them on the decks of the ship were
42
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
beating curiously-shaped tomtoms or blowing strange-looking whistles made of reeds and canes, but all of them seemed to be
happy and contented. About this time the Italian port doctors had examined the vessel and we were permitted to go ashore, and after passing
through the customhouse, we were driven
up to the business section of Naples. Here we found the streets crowded with people. Roma is the principal street of Naples, and is very narrow. Every other man seemed to be a soldier or sailor. The country seemed to be war-ridden. The people were dressed
in the very latest styles, especially the darkeyed and black-haired senoras and senoritas.
I was astonished at the large numbers of priests; they were in Naples by the hundreds, all of
soft,
them clean-shaven and wearing

There were hundreds
black silk hats.
monks and Jesuits in their long black or brown gowns and brimless hats. After spending a day in Naples, we reof
turned to our
the ship to
and while waiting for leave the harbor, a number of

vessel,

boats
filled
43
with musicians, singers and
dancers came alongside the vessel, and for two hours our people wêre highly entertained
by the songs and dances of the Italians. Whenever they would finish a song or dance, the passengers of the ship would toss coins in their midst sometimes oranges and light missiles but it did not sem to disturb these musicians, and as long as coins fell the music and fun continued. Finally the pilot boat fastened to our ship and pulled us out of the harbor, and the last view we caught of Naples was the electric lights of the city shining in the town or refiecting on the waters. The pilot boat cut loose from the ship and we started on our way to Greece, and after a few days more of fine
weather,
we
sighted the coast of the Hellenic
kingdom.
44
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
CHAPTER
Arrival in Greece
III.
First
Impressions of
THE Kingdom.
arrived in the city of Patras at 6 o'clock in the morning as the sun was begin-
We
ning to show over the mountains. Patras is one of the largest cities in Greece and is one of the chief commercial centers, being the terminus of the railway from Athens. It is one of the busiest ports in Greece, having
a large export and import trade, as large numbers of ships from the Orient make this port. In ancient times Patras was the capital of the
medieval duchy of Achaia. The city was almost destroyed by the Turks in 1821, and was the point of outbreak of the
Greek revolution. The city is a modem town with an up-to-date street car system The and a fine electric lighting plaint. streets are clean and well paved, and it is the best illuminated city of any I saw in
Greece. I will never forget the first view I had of The mountains were high. the kingdom.
TTNDER
THE GREEK FLAG
45
and snowcapped, surrounded the city and harbor and looking like huge forts, guarding it. The city was lying calm and still at the foot of the mountains on that early morning, so peaceful you would never have believed a cruel war was raging in the land. I thought of the fathers and mothers, wives, brothers and sweethearts that were spending restless days and sleepless nights, wondering and
worrying about their loved ones away in the army fighting for the kingdom. As soon as our vessel let go her anchors,
the captain of the port and the port doctor came on board. The port captain was a smart-looking Greek officer, and the port
doctor was a representative gentleman of the old style men. While waiting for the port doctor to finish his inspection of the
passengers and crew of the ship, I had a good view of all the shipping in the harbor. Most of the vessels at anchor were flying the blue and white cross of Greece. I saw one vessel flying the Greek flag at the stern and a white
flag
with a red cross in the center at the top of one of the masts. I knew this was an
46
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
The ship was disemhospital ship. barking numbers of sick and wounded sol-
army
diers
Prince Constantine, the commander-in-chief of the Greek army, had sent from his field hospitals at Salonika. These sick and wounded soldiers were being landed at Patros to get the benefits of better and
that
more commodious hospital quarters. While we were watching these scenes, a number of boatmen and citizens pulled alongside the vessel, and our Greeks on
board got iiito communication with them, and we were deeply grieved to learn of the death of the Grand Patriarch, the head of
the Greek Catholic Church, who died the day before in Constantinople. He was a
a Christian beloved by the Greek I was grieved to learn of his death, people. as I had hoped to be able to meet him while
in the country. I had met an English gentleman in Algeria who had known him while
man and
he was on a business trip to Constantinople, and he told me that the Grand Patriarch, Joachim III, was one of the most affable and lovable men he ever saw. He described
47
him as a very large man with a noble Grecian head and long, flowing beard and hair. He was a very stately man with a natural Christian dignity that you could feel, and that he limped slightly from an injury he had received in his youth. The description was
so graphic I felt I almost knew him. The news was a shock to all the Greeks, as he
was universally loved and highly respected by all who came in contact with him. We
officers of the Austrian ship as the officers of the vessel had good-bye, done everything in their power they could to
all
bade the
make
the journey pleasant. They were men of the very highest type, considerate to the
passengers and crew at all times, and of course many friendships were made with the
and passengers. The captain espewas one of the finest gentlemen. cially After bidding them good-bye, and wishing
officers
each other mutual good luck, the passengers were permitted to enter the small boats and were pulled to the shore.
By the time the passengers landed, the whole city was at the dock to meet the volun-
48
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
teers
from America. Excitement was at fever heat, and the boatmen that rowed me
to the shore fought
who should
pull
among themselves about me to shore. All of them
wanted to take me. I was finally landed and the crowd took my baggage and suitcases and made a wild rush for the custom house, all yelling at the custom house officials to examine first my baggage, and after pushing and shoving into the custom house and making the officials acquainted with the fact that I was an American coming over to join the
Greek army as a volunteer, the custom house officials called to the boatman to pass on through to the street with my baggage, and that it made no difference to them what I had in my baggage they only hoped that it would be something that would work harm
;
or great damage to the Turk. I tried to pay the boatmen for bringing me to the shore, and for carrying my baggage. They would
not listen to
it.
On the
is
me,
if
**
Your money
other hand, they told no good in Patras, and
you want any money, we will give you all you want.'' I told them that I did not come
Col.
Romus
(Garibaldi Legion),
Wounded at
Drisko.
4,,Mi',.v,;;)iiiv''4,
5?
,V
*'^'^
Military
Map
of Bezanie, the Turkish Fortress That Guarded the City of Janina.

to
49
Greece to make money, but came to give

benefit of
them the
and
if I
experiences, and help as a trained soldier of the American army,
my
wanted
to
make money I could do
that in America.
The Greek volunteers returning froni America did not fare so well. Numbers of them had boxes of cigars and cigarettes friends had given them before they left the United States. The Greek custom house official is a little particular about cigars and tobaccos coming into the country, as Greece raises lots of tobacco. I was very much amused at the expressions on the faces of
the boys as they paid duties on the presents their friends had given them. One boy in
particular, John Constantine, paid sixteen dollars on his cigars. John looked a little sheepish, but paid up like a man.
After the whole crowd got through the custom house inspection, the party passed out onto the main street of Patras. In the
meantime, while awaiting inspections, the crowds lined the streets and sidewalks and formed a great procession of themselves and
50
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
the volunteers from the ship.

teers
The volun-
from America had brought a large

flag, also
a large flag of ^'Old Glory,'' the stars and stripes of the United States,
Greek
were placed in the center of the crowd, side by side, with the blue and white cross of Greece on the right. Old Glory on the left. It was one of the most remarkable scenes I ever witnessed. Here were the volunteers, with a flag of their nativity in one hand and the flag of their adoption in the other. The whole town went wild and
flags
and these
the excitement
man came
at its highest. gentleup, dressed in an American khaki uniform, and as soon as the crowd caught sight of him, the cheering became louder.
was
He was
one of the most distinguished look-
ing men I ever saw, and after quieting the crowd, he made them a stirring and patriotic address. I afterwards met him. He was Mr. Matsoukas, the famous Hellenic poet and singer. As soon as he learned that I
was an American, a veteran of the SpanishAmerican war, and had years of experience as a soldier, and had come to Greece to vol-

unteer
51
my
lighted.
services to the nation, he He embraced and kissed
was
dere-
me
his purse, his watch, peatedly, offering his clothes, in fact everything he could to
me
show his deep appreciation of my services. After introducing me to several in Patras, he took a crowd of us into the principal coffee house and ordered mastica, coffee,
koniak, beer or whiskey for
all,
and after
spending an hour in there, he sent a number of us to the military barracks to see the Turkish prisoners that Grece had in Patras. The barracks are located about two miles from the city and near the old medieval for-
guarded the city. The military barracks were large new stone buildings that were just being finished when the war started. They were built of stone and had concrete floors, tile roofs really
tress that formerly
the best pieces of modern architecture that I saw in the kingdom. The barracks were
with thousands of prisoners Prince Constantine had captured at Salonika.

filled
of the Greek guard showed me every attention and, after learning that I
The
officers
52
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
expected to be in their army, redoubled their
and gave me every opportunity to The inspect and examine these prisons. hard and were a prisoners desperate looking crowd, surly and discontented, but numbers of them were glad they were prisoners. I talked to several of them who could speak English, and they admitted to me that they were tired of war and wanted to get home, as they had been fighting all of their lives. The government was doing all it could to
attentions
make
tions
their confinement as pleasant as condi-
would permit. The men had clean straw bedding, and I watched them as they were being fed. They had good, wholesome food, the same rations the government was giving its own soldiers. They were being
closely gua'xded
guard
large. their
fixed.
their captors, as the surrounding the barracks was very The sentinels had ball cartridges in
by
guns and every gun had its bayonet Small chance for any of these prisoners to escape; but their guards were very kind and considerate, as I saw numbers of
the soldiers give
them tobacco and
cigarettes.
53
The government compelled these Turks to cook and serve their own rations, also to go to and from the conmiissary and bring the stores to the barracks. I was told by several of the officers that this crowd was lousy, and we agreed that it would be good sense to
make
the prisoners bathe themselves often. I have seen lots of dirty people, but these Oriental prisoners were the dirtiest crowd I
ever saw.
After seeing the prisoners, we hurried to

the railroad station to take the train for
Athens, our final destination.
As soon
as
we boarded the train, the whole town was on hand to bid us good-bye and wish us God speed. The train was a curiosity to me. It was a small train of ten coaches, divided into three classes, first, second and third, and each coach was divided into compartments, six people to a compartment. The compartments of the first and second class coaches were practically the same, the only difference being the color of the upholstery of the two one was red and the other was grey but the difference in money from Athens to
54
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
dollar. The coaches of the had no upholstery on the seats, had plain wooden benches, and the difference in fare is about half between the first and The engine or machine that third class. pulled the train was very small but very powerful. The tracks were three feet, or what is known to us as a narrow gauge, but the roadbed was as good as any railroad in America, and the speed of the little train was remarkable. The conductor or guard used a horn as a signal to start the train, and when it left Patras the crowd cheered.
Patras was one

third class
After leaving the city, I had a good view of the country. The railroad follows the shores of the Gulf of Corinth. Greece is
a good agricultural and farming country, the farms looking well and apparently productive.
Immense
fields
of
tobacco and
grain, large vineyards, orange and olive fruit trees and currant bushes were every-
where.
The
hillsides
were
covered
wdth
horses, cows, sheep
and goats. The villages were neat and clean, and the whole country had an air of peace and prosperity with no
55
signs of war. Now and then you could see women and children in the fields and on the
hillsides tending flocks that would call attention to the fact that the male members of the
family were away in the army. Sometimes you could see the women or very old men in the fields with plows that were dragged with oxen, and I was told that the peasantry used wooden plows, and that chilled or disc plows were almost unknown to them. The
stations on the line of this railroad
were
very numerous, as the country is thickly settled between Patras and the old city of
Corinth.
Whenever
the train stopped at a station,
the villagers would crowd around to see the volunteers. The people were interesting. The
women had
and the children were beautiful, with red and rosy cheeks. Most of the men were old and feeble, and all of them were wearing the oldstyle dress of a hundred years ago a white waist and skirt combined and white stockings and trousers. The shoes were long and pointed, and every old man carried a long
bright, cheerful faces,
56
AN AMEEICAN
hand.
SOLDIER
staff in his
Numbers
of priests, all in
long black somber gowns and high black

hats,
were at the station. All seemed serious and devout Christians. The little children would come to the windows of the cars and present the volunteers with flowers and the When the priests would bless the men. hear them we could out train pulled calling '* Farewell and God speed." to us,
Finally we arrived at the city of Corinth. Corinth is one of the old cities of Greece,
near the gulf of the same name. It was famous in ancient times as a center of commerce, literature and art. It was founded in 1350 B.C. It was conquered by the Dorians and colonized Corfu and Syracuse in 734. It prospered under the tyrant Periander, 600 B.C., and sided with Sparta in
the Peloponnesian
later, in
war against Athens and
395 and 387 B.C., engaged in the Corinth Corinthian war against Sparta. was defeated by Sparta in 394 and was held by the Macedonians until 243 B.C., when it
joined the Achaean League, of which it was the capital. It was captured, sacked and

burned by the Romans in Julius Caesar in 46 B.C.
57
146,
and
rebuilt
by
In modern times it has been taken time and again by Turkish and Venetian armies. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 1858, and the new city has been built about three miles from the site of the old town. The city lies on a broad plain surrounded by brilliant views of nature, and grand scenes of noble mountains and valleys. The Gulf of Corinth in the distance is the most beautiful body of water in Europe. An artist would
rave over the delicate colors of
waters, especially the beautiful shades of blue and green. The water looks like a sea of glass,
its
calm and peaceful, and when the sun shines

is magnificent. Much is written of the wonderful lakes of Switzerland and
the effect
Italy, but
why
this
wonderful gulf has been
overlooked I do not understand.
We remained at Corinth an hour, but long

enough
to see
hundreds of soldiers in their

uniforms.
I
striking and
artistic
I saw
num-
bers of the
Ef zones,
had read of these
58
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
men, and these were the first I ever saw. Their uniforms were striking with their red caps, or headpieces, without brims. It was merely a skull cap, but very neat looking, wdth a long, flowing black tassle swinging in the breeze. The coat and skirt combined was
of good quality and hung in artistic folds from the body to the knees. The trousers
and stockings were combined in one garment, and reminded me of the old-style trunk and hose the people wore in the middle ages. The hose was made of a high-grade of woolen cloth, the shoes were red leather, and long and pointed with large black artistic rosettes on the tips of each. Around the waist of each Efzone was a cartridge belt filled with shells, and attached to the cartridge belt was a long and ugly-looking sword bayonet. These Efzones, or highlanders, who are the
pride of Greece, appeared to be much like the Scotch highlanders, and it is well that Greece should be proud, for braver or more
daring men are never born of woman. I afterwards saw these Efzones in the thick of
battle at
Janina and they verified
my
every
59
Each and every one carried impression. himself as if the fate of the nation and the
responsibility of the
ders.
war
rested on his shoul-
Mingling in the crowd at Corinth we could

see infantrymen, artillerymen and cavalrymen, dressed in the usual regulation Greek
All these soldiers in khaki uniforms. Corinth were bidding their families and friends good-bye. Numbers of them boarded our train for Athens. Many sad and sorrowing scenes were enacted before the train started. Old mothers kissed their boys goodbye, wives and sweethearts fondled and
The sight I to me knew that death because painful disease would separate some forever;
caressed their loved ones.
was and and
amidst the cheers from some and the tears

of others the train pulled out. The train crossed the canal of Corinth, a great piece of engineering skill. This canal connects the Gulf of Corinth, or Gulf of Lepanto, with the Gulf of Aegina, or Saronic
Gulf, and is used for Greek commerce, as it connects two large bodies of water and helps
60
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
navigation by facilitating time and distance between the ports of Greece. After passing the canal, we finally arrived at Athens, the capital, about eight o'clock in the evening.
It
cold
was late in November and the weather was and chilly.

.
UNDER THE GREEK FIAG
61
CHAPTER
Athens
IV.
The Home of Art^ Science, and HeroesMeets with American Volunteers Calls on American Minister
Visit TO Acropolis.
After some trouble, we found a carriage, and were driven to the Olympic Hotel, on
Stadium
friends
Street.
I was in the hands of
mj
who had come from America on the same ship, and one of them who had been in Greece the year before knew the proprietor
of the Olympic Hotel while there. I was glad he directed me to this hotel, as the
Greek gentleman conducting

the very
finest
it
was one of
men it has ever been my pleas-
Several of our party went to the Olympic, Mr. John Constantine, Theodore Sachel, Mr. S. T. Georges and Mr. George Boozalis, all Greek volunteers and former business men of the city of Rochester,
ure to know.
New
York, also First-Lieutenant Jaous Oswaldo, an Italian officer who had joined us at Naples, Italy, and came over with us as
a volunteer to the Garibaldi corps.
62
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
As soon as we were assigned to our rooms and deposited our baggage, we were ready to see the city. The Greek gentlemen with us had friends and acquaintances they wished to see, and left me to my own resources. In the meantime, it became known to the crowd around the hotel that an American was in the town as a volunteer, and from that moment I was never without company. A number of Greeks came to my room and escorted
me
to the Pan-Hellenic
Cafe on University
is
Street.
The Pan-Hellenic Cafe
most popular place of its and well it should be. It is large, clean, and well furnished, and compares favorably with anything in our covmtry. It is conducted by shrewd and attentive business men, serving the best liquors and foods in the city. It has one of the finest orchestras in Europe, the members being a mixture of talented Greek and Italian musicians, playing all the In standard classical music of Europe. addition to this, it plays our popular American ragtime airs, as the thousands of Ameri-
the largest and kind in the city,

can Greek volunteers
piece,
call for
63
ragtime music and applaud the orchestra at the end of each
much
to the
amusement and
astonish-
ment of the native Greeks, who have not been The native Greek never ento America. but he and his family sit and watch cores, with interest while the American Greek applauds the orchestra, the same as he would
if in
the meeting place of most of the Greek volunteers, and since

is
America. This cafe
Athens had become the meeting place of most of the native Greeks, especially the officers and men of the regular army and navy.
their advent into
Our party managed to find seats in the cafe, and we were there but a few moments when some Greeks in the house, seeing my
blond head and foreign looks, called out to me, ^^You are an American." I called back
them and said, *^ Certainly, but am expect'' ing to be a Greek as soon as I get a uniform. In a second's time a hundred of them had come over, and a dozen tables were shoved together, and we had one grand jubilee. AH of the boys were anxious to know the news
to
64
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
from 'America and what was going on, and some of them wanted to know if Roosevelt was elected. As soon as I satisfied their curiosity, I wanted to know about the war, and the army and navy. All of them were loud in their praises of what Prince Constantine had done in capturing Salonika and the good work the navy was doing in keeping the Turkish fleet bottled up in the Dardanelles. Between our attempt at carrying on conversation and the general excitement, I was kept busy declining offers of koniak, beer and wine. Every Greek in the house was so enthused that he wanted me to have a drink with him. If I had taken even a
small part of the liquors the excited fellows offered me, this book could not have been
written.
We
sat there
till
a very late hour,
and when we adjourned I promised to meet them at the same place the next evening. "I retired to the hotel, and early the next morning I called on Mr. Jacob Gould Schur man, our minister to Greece. I had never met Mr. Schurman before, but knew of him as one of our most able and distinguished
a,
Vi
'A
o
> < o
13
H
<;
tJNDER
TiajE
GREEK FLAG
65
Mr. Schurman is well known to the American people, as he had been the head of
citizens.
and
Cornell University in New York for years, is one of the foremost educators of the
world.
He was
glad to see me, and after a
long discussion about the recent election in the United States, I told him that I had
come
to
unteer.
Greece to serve the nation as a volHe smiled but made no comments.
In discussing the people of Greece, the name of Mr. Venezelos, the Prime Minister, or Premier, was mentioned, and Professor Schurman told me that he considered Mr.
Venezelos one of the greatest statesmen in Europe. I was interested in the Premier, as I expected to call on him the next day. I had some information about him, as every Greek I met would always bring up the subject of the statesman's ability.
Mr. Schurman kindly asked me to take a walk with him to the old Acropolis. He is a great walker, and after getting his overcoat we started out, and finally arrived at the site of the old ruins. While in Athens, Mr. Schurman had been storing his mind
66
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
with the old histories of the people, and for two hours we stood there and he gave me the
benefit of his research
and knowledge.
;
The ruins of the Acropolis are great piles of architectural perfections grand and substantial pieces of
masonry, built thousands
by masons and masters, that have never been equaled. The temple of
of years ago
Victory the Erechtheum, the Ionic shrine of the gods of the people the magnificent Parthenon designed by the architect Ictinius, the essence of Doric splendor which the immortal Phidias decorated with glories of arts never surpassed all of these stand on
; ;
the site of the old Athenian temples.
The
Propyleae were designed and built by Mnescicles, and are grand colonnades overtopping immense steps by which you reach
the Acropolis. From the Acropolis,
we could see the great of Athens city spread out like some grand picture on our right was the old temple of
;
Theseus and on our
left the
monument
of
Philopapi and nearby the temple of Jupiter, the theater of Bacchus, Cave of the Winds,
67
and the Arch of Hadrian so many great and historical works, so many actual realities of the past showing to us Americans that we owe to Greece everything that our modern civilization represents: the arts,
sciences, education, religion, in fact every-
thing that makes the world grand and a place fit to live in. The architecture of these mighty old temples surpass anything I had
ever seen before.
In view of these temples, and in front of is the identical rock where the Apostle Paul stood when he made his fathe Acropolis
mous address to the people of Athens. After

seeing these historical buildings, and the places where the men of bygone ages stood,
for any man to say there
is
no Christ
is
sheer
nonsense and pitiable ignorance. Around the Acropolis is an old stone wall, built by the Romans when they occupied Athens. The walls are in good condition, some of them very thick and high. On the site of the Acropolis is the temple of Victory. The temple of Victory, or Nike Apteros, or Wingless Victory, is a beautiful
68
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIjfcJtl
Ionic temple, and stands on a high platform, projecting beyond the Prophyaea. This tem-
was pulled down by the Turks and its materials buried under the works of the Turkish artillery, but was restored in 1835. Nike is from the Greek mythology and is
ple
represented in ancient
art
as
maiden with a palm branch
in one
winged hand and
a garland in the other. I observed the carving around the frieze work of the Parthenon had been vandalized, and learned that these carvings were taken in the year 1801 by an English nobleman,
Lord Elgin, who carried them to England and sold them to the British Museum, and his excuse for taking them was that the
Greeks did not exercise proper care in guarding them. The Greeks are now able to care for these carvings, as they have a National
Musemn
in fine stone buildings, properly

;
policed and guarded and it seems that the English should give them back to Greece, the rightful and lawful owner.
Five miles to the north of the Acropolis I could see the city of Piraeus. It is one of
69
the principal seaports of Greece, and is situated on the Saronic Gulf. The city was
founded by Themistocles and Pericles. It was destroyed by Sulla, the Roman commander, 86 B.C. In ancient times it was connected with Athens by a long wall. The city has been rebuilt in late years, and seems
to be a flourishing
manufacturing town. Athens was spread out before us, and as it is one of the oldest and most historical cities of the world, I believe it is worth while
to give a brief history of the city.
The
city
grew up around the Acropolis. The other noted hills around Athens are the Aeropagus and Pnyx, and long walls formerly joined the city to the port of Piraeus. Athens was fomided by an Egyptian colony. It became the chief place in Attica, with Pallas-Athene as its especial divinity, and was ruled by kings, among whom were Erechtheus, Theseus and Codrus. The laws of Draco were enacted 624 B.C., and the laws of Solon 594
B.C. Pisistratus tryannized the people 560 B.C., and his sons were driven out of the country in 510 B.C. The reforms of Cleis-
70
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
C, made Athens a pure
de-
thenes, 509 B.
laws.
mocracy; popular assemblies
made
all
the
The glorious period of the people commenced with the Persian wars, in which
Athens took a leading part at Marathon, 490 B.C., and Salamis, 480 B.C. The city was held for a short time by the Persians in 480
B.C.
Theniistocles built the long walls to Pericles, 461 to 429 B.C., was noted for
Confederacy of Delos 477 B.C., and for a brief period had an extensive empire and
was the
power in Greece. The age of Pericles, 461 B.C. to 429 B.C., was noted for the advance strides of architecture. The 431 404 and B.C., rePeloponnesian war, sulted in the displacement of Athens by Sparta. In the hegemony of Greece, Athens was taken by Sparta in 404 B.C., and an aristocratic faction was put in power, but democracy was restored by Thrasybulus in 403 B.C. Athens under Demosthenes resisted Macedon, but was overthrown at the l)attle of Cheronea, 338 B.C., and was generally after this under Macedonian influence.
first
71
Athens was subjugated by Rome in 146 B.C., and pillaged by Sulla in 86 B.C. It continued to form part of the Roman empire and later of the Byzantine empire. It was conquered by the Latin Crusaders in 1205
A.D. It became a lordship and soon a duchy under French, Spanish and Italian rulers, successively till its conquest by the Turks in 1456. It was devastated by a Venetian bombardment in 1687 and also in the war of liberation in 1821-27. It became the capital of new Greece in 1834.
The following are among the important structures of the old city Dionysiac Theater, on the southern slope of the Acropolis,
:
where
duced.
all
It
the famous Greek dramas are prowas originally built of wood and
was not completed in stone until 340 B.C. The existing remains of the orchestra and
stage structure are modifications of Roman date. The front wall of the stage bears ex-
The Bacchic myths. diameter of the cavea is three hundred feet it has one precinction and is divided by
cellent
reliefs
of
radial stairways into thirteen wedge-shape(J
72
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
The lowest tiers consist of seats of honor cut from marble in the form of chairs, and the gate of the Oil-Market, or New Agora, is built with gifts from Julius Caesar and Augustus. The west front is
sections.
tetrastyle, the columns twenty-six feet high and four feet in base diameter, still
Doric,
supporting their entablature and pediment. The middle inter columniation, for the passage of vehicles, is eleven and one-fourth feet wide the others four and three-fourths feet. The long walls are two massive fortifi;
cation walls extending from the ramparts of the city to those of the Piraeus, at a distance apart, except near their diverging extremities,
of about fh'o hundred and fifty feet. These made the fort and Athens practically one huge fortress and assured Athenians
supplies by sea, while rendering possible Athenian naval triiunphs at times when the Spartans held their land without wars. They were destroyed when Athens fell before
Sparta. The long walls followed the crest of the group of hills southwest of tlie Acropolis
and run southwest.
The northern
wall,
***
'
<
73
which was the longer, measured five miles. There was at least one cross wall to guard
against the forcing of the passage.
74
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
CHAPTER
V.
Takes Lunch with Mr. Schurman ^Visits THE Museums Visit to Mr. Venizelos^ Greece's Famous Prime Minister Makes Application for Commission in Army.
a modern city with fine new buildings and clean and well-paved streets, but the old buildings can be seen by comparison and the comparison is not in favor
Athens
is
now
modern buildings. From the walls of the Acropolis I could see the Palace of King George, and I deem it worth while to
of the
give a short sketch of this monarch. His full name is Christian Wilhelm Ferdinand
Adolphus George, First King of Greece. He was born at Copenhagen, Denmark, December 24, 1845. He is the second son of Christian IX of Denmark. He was elected king
of the Hellenes by the Greek National Assembly March 30, 1863, at the instance of the
great powers. In order to secure his acceptance of the crown of Greece, the powers
restored to the Greeks the Ionian Islands.
75
The principal event of the reign of King

George has been the incorporation, in the year 1881, through the intervention of the powers, of the greater part of Thessaly and a little part of Epirus. King George married the Grand Duchess Olga, daughter of
Grand Duke Constantine of Russia, October 27, 1867. From the Acropolis we returned to the American legation, where I
the
had tea with Mr. and Mrs. Schurman, and I found the wife of the minister a typical high-bred and homelike American lady, and
after spending a pleasant afternoon with
them, bade them good-bye. The next morning early I

the
made
a visit to
museums, and the wonders are so many it is difficult to enumerate them. They have treasures in their museums which is sold would pay the national debt a hundred times. The wonders of bygone ages are here, and
the government is taking every care of them. Gendarmes are stationed everyivhere, keeping a watchful eye on the treasures, and each
one of them
is
exceedingly courteous and
obliging to visitors, especially foreigners,
76
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
and they take a personal pride in showing you the wonders. It is worth a trip to Greece
alone to see these historic collections. After seeing the wonders of the museum, I visited
the library and the universities on University Street. I was glad to note the fine statue of Gladstone the people had erected in honor
Grand Old Man of England." He was a friend to Greece and it is right and
of the
^^
proper that the marble shaft

his
is
erected to
memory.
I saw the statue of
Lord By-
ron, another great Englishman who was a friend to Greece in the trying times of 1821. I visited the marble Stadium, another great
piece of engineering work, where the Olympian games are held. It is one of the best
work in Europe, being built wholly of marble and will last for centuries. I saw the numerous parks and garpieces of engineering
dens of the
all
city, in
which the largest palms
and ferns are

After seeing
Venizelos, the
to be seen.
They are green
the year round.

all
that I could I returned
to the hotel early, as I
was to meet Mr. Prime Minister of the king-
tJNDER
THE
GREJEK FLAG
77
was on my way to see him at his office, in the war department, I passed up Stadimn Street and saw a flock of forty goats lying on the sidewalk in front
dom, the next day.
I
As
of one of the principal restaurants. These goats were lying there peacefully and contentedly, chewing their cuds, and in the
Greek was milking a nanny goat standing there as patient as a cow. A Greek was passing who could speak English and I questioned him about this man and these goats. He laughed and told me that it was the custom in Greece to use goats' milk and
street a
the public required the dairyman or the owner of the goats to drive them to the door
of the restaurant where the proprietor or his assistant could see him milk them, and
that custom required this, so there would be no doubt as to the quality, purity and fresh-
ness of the milk.
I caught the point, and
the thought flashed through my mind, what would the consequences be to an American dairyman, be he the owner of cows or goats^
if
he drove his flock or herd up to the doors
78
of an
city?
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
American restaurant
in a
crowded
After this strange and amusing incident I hurried on to the war department. There were crowds of soldiers and citizens in front
of the building. I told the gendarme I wished to see the minister, Mr. Venizelos, and he informed me his office was located on
the second
call
floor,
and was kind enough
to
a soldier to show me the statesman's I had to pass through throngs of soloffice.

diers in the hallways
and corridors. Finally Colonel Georges Liolas, of the engineering department, learned that I was an Ameri-
can and wanted an interview with the minister. He told the gendarme on duty at the minister's door to send word to Mr. VenizeIn a los an American desired to see him. few moments the door was opened and I was admitted to the minister's presence. He
was standing
the
at his table,
and I knew him
moment
I saw him, as his face was fami-
liar to
every one in Greece, his picture be-
ing in all the windows of the principal houses of the kingdom. I asked him, **Do

' '
79
He answered and said, you speak English ? ^*I do, but you must speak slowly and distinctly." In the meantime he took me by the arm and led me to a seat. I told him I had arrived in Greece two days before and that I had come to Greece to offer my services as a volunteer in the army that I was an experienced officer, and had served in the Spanish- American war of 1898 as a captain of United States volunteers, and later had become a colonel of infantry, and still later a brigadier general, and had experience not only as an infantry officer, but had been a
;
captain of artillery. I gave him a written application for a position in his army, and
in
my application I
man
as a military
stated briefly my record in the iUnited States, giv-
ing him a list of the ranks and dates of my commissions, and handed him the commissions that I had received while serving in the
military forces.
measure.
ciated
delighted beyond hands repeatedly and showed in his manner that he appre-
He was
He
shook
my
my
offer of services.
After discussing
my application and filing
80
the same
A1^
AMERICAN SOLDIER
in his private papers, we had a general discussion of the war, and I took occasion to tell him that the people
away
of America sympathized with Greece and it was our hope that Greece would drive the
Turks from Europe. We knew the history of Greece and felt the Grecian people
thought as we did, that in olden times free-
dom had its birth among the hills and mountains of Greece.
same spirit of these old heroes is descended to the Greeks of today and that the modern and progressive Greek mind would not tolerate the exactions of Turkey, especially her cruel and arbitrary authority, and that, as Greece could no longer consent to this, she must resist. We knew the Greeks loved freedom as
the
We
knew
they loved their souls that their education and training lead them to the acceptance that men were born for government and not government for men, and that our American constitution and foundation was based on the rights of the people to rule, and that agents of government, be they American, Turk or Greek, are the servants, not the
;
.
!
V
'
%,'
i^^t^'l'^J

masters.
81
knew
the people of America of the persecution and exactions of I told
him
the Turkish officials in the mountains of

these cruelties, that his nation
and knowing of had our moral support and keenest sympathy. The more I talked to him the more pleased he became. His dark eyes sparkled and his face glowed with pleasure. He told me that he was deep-
Macedonia and Epirus,
sympathy of America, and he was extremely proud of the great work the Pan-Hellenic Unions of America
ly grateful for the
wêre doing in sending so many thousands of Greeks back to the kingdom, also of the arms,
ammunition, equipment, and large sums of money sent by them, and he said that the first public address he made after the war he expected to comment on the great work done by the patriotic Greeks of America.
Before I
ing to see
busiest
left him he insisted on my callhim again and gave word to his
attendant to always admit me.
He
is
the
man
head and
in the kingdom, as he is the front of the whole country. I had
a splendid opportunity to note the character
82
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
of the man.
by far the ablest man Greece has had in centuries, and a statesman that any nation would be proud of. He seems to be as mild and gentle as a woman his voice is low and pleasing he speaks very slowly, but measures every sentence carefully. He is the soul of honor, and his reputation for integrity can never be questioned. His ruling passion is to see Greece become great and resume the position she formerly His loyalty to held as a mighty power. Greece is wonderful, and he has the confidence of the entire nation, friend and enemy
is
;
;
He
alike, regardless of past political differences
or opinions. He has done more to bring Greece to the front in this crisis than any
other living man. When he took charge of the ministry at Athens he dismissed every rascal and incompetent in the government
crooked collectors of customs and contractors who starved the troops

service, dismissing
on poor provisions. He reorganized the navy and put it on a good basis, employing a British officer to help him in the organization. He reorganized the army and employed
XTNDER
THE GREEK FLAG
83
French
military experts as instructors, equipping the army with the most up-to-date
has made the government a business government. The royal family became displeased with him, thinking he was getting too much power, but this did not de-
French guns.
He
ter the patriot. His own family traces its history to royalty, the old Florentine dukes,
and
old family considers its genealogy equal to any dyasty in Europe.

this
Eleutheorios Venizelos was born on the

island of Cerigo. Here it was his father took refuge after a futile rising against the Turks on his own isle of Crete. While a boy he talked over the wrongs of his people and his name soon became famous in the island of Crete, and in the war of 1897 Venezelos worked like a beaver in the batteries of the fortress of Malaxa, after the shells from the ships in the harbor had practically
destroyed the fort.
He was wounded
up for dead. made him a
so seriously that he was picked The work he did in the forts
hero in Crete. His whole heart and soul is in the war. He lives simpler than the plain-
84
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
'>'
est citizen.
As an
orator he holds his audi-
ences spellbound.
netic, his
His personality is maglanguage is perfect his dream and

;
his
the restoration of great Greece, hope and if he lives ten years longer, he will make
is
powers of Europe. His capacity is beyond comprehension, and Greece will do well to keep him in control of the kingdom. After an interesting conversation, and as
I was ready to go, I told him I hoped the war would soon end, and that America ex-
Greece
one
of
the
foremost
pected all of the American Greek volunteers to return to us and resume their peaceful business pursuits, and if Greece had another
come back again, and that we were proud of our Greek citizens because they were always peaceful and law-abiding. He shook hands with me again and bade me
wâr they could
good morning.
85
CHAPTER
VI.
Meeting with Garibaldi's Recrititing Officer Given Commission as Major of Artillery in Garibaldi's Legion Uniform and Equipment Secured Makes Speech to American Greek Volunteers Departure for the Front.
When I arrived at the hotel,

Italian
Captain G. R.
officer
Frankel, a captain and medical
of the
army
awaiting me.
of the legion of Garibaldi, was The captain had heard that an
American officer was in Athens and had come to Greece to join the army as a volunteer. Captain Frankel was in Athens securring recruits for the Garibaldi legion. General Garibaldi had left the captain in
Athens with instructions

teers to the
to send all volun-
army
at Metsovo.
General Ric-
coto Garibaldi
he was in the retirement of the Turk from Europe. This was not the first service the old soldier had seen with Greece. In the war of 1897 he did valiant work with his legion in the
in Greece in this war, as a friend of the kingdom and believed
was
86
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
Greek service and as soon as the war of 1912 started, he was in Greece again with a legion.
Garibaldi's
name
is
well
known
in
Europe
and America.
love of liberty is the of the Garibaldi family. dominating passion His ancestor is known to history as one of
stincts of his distinguished family, when he sees a nation like Greece struggling for her
The
the liberators of Italy, and true to the in-
and being a close neighbor to the kingdom, he is on hand in Greece, doing all
rights,
that he can to help the nation. He could not do otherwise, being a Garibaldi. Captain
Prankel told me that the general and his legion were at Metsova and had been there for several days, and the captain asked me to
join the legion. I told him all right, but first he had better telegraph the general that
I was in Athens, and ask him what my standing and rank would be in the legion. I also
told
him that I had filed an application with Mr. Venizelos for a position in the Greek army, and was awaiting his orders. The
captain said, **I will wire the general you are here, and I know he will be anxious to

' '
87
I told him all right have you in the legion. that it made no difference to me what part
;
of the
army I was
in,
as I
had come over
to
help the kingdom. Late that evening Captain Frankel heard from the general and tendered me a commis-
major of artillery, he told me at the same time to get my equipments, such

sion as
as uniforms, revolvers, sword, blankets, etc., as a soldier requires, and that I must get them as soon as possible that we would have
;
to leave to join the general in twenty-four hours. The captain was kind enough to
show me a Greek tailor, and his family worked all night and all day in getting the uniform made. It was a daisy bright red cap and a bright red coat as it was the
general's wishes to equip his soldiers in the same uniform that his distinguished ancestor used in Italy. The cap and coat were of
the Garibaldi pattern, but the rest of the equipment was the Greek regulation. The
sword was the usual heavy basket-handled, curved, field officers' saber with a crown and cross of Greece on the handle, and all the
88
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
buttons of my coat had the Greek crown on them. I felt a little strange wearing the emblems of a kingdom when all my life I had worn the emblems of the Spread Eagle, but
I soon became accustomed to the livery of the kingdom.
While waiting for the uniform to be made, I was standing in front of the hotel the same evening about eight o'clock, and saw a full
/
regiment of soldiers, in columns of fours,
coming down Stadium
Street.
The
first
sight of these troops gave me a slight shock, as they were dressed in the strict regulation
imiform of an American regiment, and for a moment I thought it was one of our own regiments, but I soon saw that it was a regiment of Greek volunteers from the United States that had equipped themselves before Their caps had the they left America. or the Spread Eagle, insignia of the United States army. The same insignia was on the button of the blouses. Their waist belt had the brass buckle of U. S. in large raised letters on the breast. The regiment was passing the hotel while I was examining their
89
equipments, and long before they passed I
some of the men in the companies, as they were marching by in companies. I called to them and asked them, *'What are you doing in Greece with an American regiment?" About this time the regiment halted and the boys discovered that I was an American. As soon as they did they insisted on my going with them to the palace. I went along, and after reaching the palace, they insisted on my making them a speech. I made them a short talk, and it was a remarkable sight to see that regiment of Greek volunteers being addressed by an American soldier in English. There were thousands and thousands of the home Greeks standing around. The square was filled with people, and only a few of them, except the volunteers, underIt stood a word that I was saying. created a profound sensation, and during the
called to
talk the reporters of the various newspapers in Athens were making every effort to learn
what I was saying. They knew I was advising the men to become good soldiers and
to
do their part in the war.
Finally I
fin-
90
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
remarks and the crowd broke up and returned to their homes. The next day the papers of the city commented on the speech, and I was surprised to know how
ished
my
well the reporters caught
it.
The next morning we departed for the army. In our party were four officers, including myself, Captain G. R. Frankel, Captain Carlos Cassone, and First-Lieutenant Jaus Oswaldo. These officers were Italians,
and had seen service in the Italian army the same year in the war between Italy and Turkey, and were experienced military men. All of them were young men, Captain Frankel
being thirty-eight years of age. Captain Cassone thirty years, and Lieutenant Jaus Oswaldo twenty-eight. I was thirty-seven, so we naturally became a congenial party. These gentlemen could not speak English and I could not speak Italian, but we man-
aged to get along very
well.
Our orders
at
directed us to take the train
Athens for Patras, and from Patras a
vessel to Santi Quaranti, on the coast of Alboarded bania in Turkey in Europe.
We
91
the train at Athens and after a long trip, arrived at Patras, where we went to the Hotel
Royal kept by Mr. Karameros, a very
fine
gentleman. We immediately gave our order to the captain of the port, as this official
represents the government, and no one
is
permitted to board any ship without first gaining the permission of the port. I knew the captain of the port very well, as I had met him in Patras a few days before when I
landed in Greece, and he was delighted to see me again in the uniform of the kingdom. He agreed to put us on board the first ves-
came in destined for the army. We remained at Patras that night, and the next morning at eleven o'clock a large Greek ship, the Serosistis, came in loaded with several thousand Turkish prisoners from Salonica. The ship was bringing these prisonsel that
ers to Patras for safekeeping.
We
soon got
in touch with the officers of the vessel, and they informed us that as soon as they turned
mander
the prisoners over to the military comat Patras, we were to come aboard'
and they would take us to Corfu, a short
dis-
92
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
tance from Santi Quaranti. The commander at Patras was able to care for only two thoufilled
sand of the prisoners, as his prisons were with Turks. In the meantime the
officers
ship's
Athens to leave the
had received orders from rest of the prisoners on
the island of Corfu.
93
CHAPTER
VII.
Helping Guard Prisoners on Board Ship Poor Equipment of the Turkish Soldiers Arrival at Corfu ^Visits Prisoners Men Well Treated Arrival at
Prevesa.
Early the next morning we went on board

the Seriositis, and after getting on board we met the captain and the officers and men in
charge of the prisoners, some two thousand seven hundred, that wêre to be landed at Corfu. The captain of the ship was one of the finest young men I ever met. He was only twenty-two years of age, but spoke good English, as he had been educated in England.
I a
His name is Vassalis Masasioksis, and was very much surprised to see so young
in
man
command
The ship had but the government took it and was using it as a transport for troops and prisoners. After a pleasant conversation with the captain in his cabin, I met the lieutenant in charge of the prisoners. I was astonished to
of such a large vessel. been a collier before the war,
94
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
had only forty soldiers to guard the prisoners, but he had them all in the hold of the vessel, and kept half of them constantly on duty over the hatchway. The
learn that he
prisoners were seventy times larger than the guard, but the lieutenant was very shrewd,
had told the prisoners if they attempted to escape, his guard would fire into the crowd, and this threat intimidated them, as no one in the crowd knew who would get
as he
shot.
We offered our services at once to help
guard the Turks. He thanked us and the prisoners were notified that the guard had been increased. It seemed to me that if these
prisoners had had any leaders they could have made their escape, but they dreaded the
guns and bayonets of their guards too much. The ship left the harbor late in the afternoon for Corfu, and all night we kept a close watch on them. Early the next morning we reached the port of Corfu, and as soon as the lighters came alongside, we landed the prisoners and sent them ashore. The prisoners came up from the hatchway one at a time and each man was searched before he was
95
placed in the lighter, and, to the amusement of all, six hundred and fifty worthless old
but heavy caliber, revolvers were foimd in their possession. These revolvers wêre so worthless the Greek officer threw
style,
them
into the ocean.
He
offered
me some
of them, but I did not care to be burdened with the weight of such obsolete weapons, as I had a modern Colts automatic pistol in
my pocket.
I watched the prisoners as they came out of the vessel, and learned that only three of them could read and write, and as to their
general morals, they were on a par with the

rest of their countrymen.
The men were

;
very dirty and, of course, lousy their beards and hair unkempt, as they had not had a
bath in weeks.
They were dressed
in
dingy grey uniform of the very poorest qualTheir blankets were of a cheap grey, ity. their knapsacks, haversacks and shelter tents were a cheap grade of canvas. I could see that their equipments had been issued to them recently, but the quality was so poor that wear and tear had almost worn it out.
96
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
why these men were low with such equipped grades of cloth, whether it was done as a matter of economy, or the equipment had been inspected by Turkish officials who were not honest. It seemed a crime to me for any soldier to be sent to war with such miserable equipments. Their outfits would not stand a short campaign. Most of these men were ragged, and I learned that they had been equipped only
I never could learn
sixty days before.
There were a number of their Mauser rifles on board, and I examined these guns,
finding that while the Mauser rifle is a good gun, it is not as well or as finely finished as
the regulation Greek rifle. Tt apparently had one advantage, and that is it shoots a The cartridges of the Turks larger ball. were a mixed lot, some of them were plain steel jackets, while others were molded to a
point on end as sharp as a needle. While the prisoners were being landed
Captain Prankel, Captain Cassone, Lieutenant Oswaldo, and I went ashore. As soon as we landed at the dock, we could see the enor-
'
>
>
9?
mous crowd
to see
had gathered in the streets the prisoners. The people gave us a

that
great reception when we arrived, as soon as they learned that we were volunteers on our
to join Garibaldi, and after meeting numbers of them, we were sent to the Grand
way
Hotel Angliterre-Belle-De-Venice,; a hot^l situated on the very highest part of the island, and from here the view was magnificent. The island is separated from the mainland by the channel of Corfu. Corfu is the
vulgar or
new name
of the island.
It
The
cor-
rect name is Kerkyra. to the medieval Latinist as Corcyra. The scenery is grand, with its glorious view of the snowcapped mountains of Albania in the distance. The island is such a wonderful spot that the Emperor of Germany has a summer palace on it, and King George of Greece had his
was known
summer palace there. Very few tourists visit the island, but if they could see it as I did they would come there by the thousands. It
is
one of God's great pieces of work. The sea surrounding the island is a beautiful blue, the climate is uniform, the houses of
96
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
the city are pure white, and the roofs are of red tile. You can see the best of English and
Nearly all of the people speak English, French, and Italian, but Greek is the universal language
belongs to her. Along the waterfront of the harbor are long rows of warehouses, and in these wareit
Greek architecture everywhere.
of the island, as
houses the government has the Turkish prisoners. Meeting a Greek ofScer, he volunthe prisons. The warehouses had been cleaned and disinfected by the government, and they made ideal prisons. Clean straw had been placed on the floors, and heavy sacking was tacked down over the straw, making the beds of the prisoners soft and comfortable. The men were distributed
in the
teered to show
me
rooms of the various

I never inquired
floors of the
prisons.
how many
there
were, but evidently several thousand. These Turks were being fed good, wholesome food
the same as the
Grek army, and they seemed
to be doing very well. From these warehouses

.
we went to another
building on the edge of the harbor where the
tTNDER
THE GREEK FLAG
99
were confined. I was shown into their quarters and found everything as neat and clean as a hotel, and much better than a Turkish hotel that I visited later. The officers had clean cots to sleep on, new Greek army blankets, and their rooms were well ventilated and lighted, each room havTurkish
ofiScers
ing a private bath. All sanitary conditions of modern toilet rooms were provided. Everything the government could do was
done to make their imprisonment as com-
and cheerful as possible. The ofwere sitting around smoking and talking to one another, and on the tables in their rooms were all the periodicals, papers and magazines of the day. The government was furnishing them these, also cigarettes and tobacco, and I was told that they were receiving their salaries from the Greek government regularly. I met numbers of the Turkish officers, and they expressed themselves
fortable
ficers
as being grateful to their captors for and considerations the govkindnesses the
to
me
ernment was showing them during their confinement. The officers seemed to be quiet
loo
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIEti
and serious men. I could see that they were All of them wore well bred and genteel. their uniforms and rank ornaments, no side arms, of course every one had his fez cap.
;
I noted the difference in the color of the officers some of them were very dark, almost as dark as our brown-skinned negroes, while others were as white as the Anglo-Saxon. It shows the peculiarity of their Oriental blood.
;
Several of them expressed themselves to
me
as being tired of war, as they had been fighting the Italians for a year, and now it was
Greeks, Bulgars, Servians, and Montenetheir standpoint they getting the worst of it.
grins,
and from
were
After spending several hours with them, I
went out on the harbor front and met several more Turkish officers promenading up and
down the
them That afternoon we received an order from the government to board the Greek ship Frosso, as the vessel was bound to the port of Prevesa, as we had received information that would make it impossible for us to go to
sea wall, as their captors permitted to take all the exercise they desired.
101
Metsovo by way of Santi Quaranti, as the Albanians had risen up in arms on that part of the coast and it would be impossible to reach Metsovo that way, and our orders were to go to Prevesa and pass on to Metsovo by
of Janina, as it was assumed that the Greek army could capture Janina in a few
way
days.
Before
boarding
the
Frosso
Captain
Prankel, the medical officer in our party, went to one of the largest drug stores in
Corfu and secured a large supply of stores, such as drugs, bandages, and surgical instruments, for use at the hospitals in Prevesa. As soon as we got the supplies together we went on board the Frosso, and she cleared out of the harbor. Our next stop was at Santa Maura, one of the Ionian islands. This is the island where Sappho is said to have thrown herself into the sea. The ship had to anchor at Santa Maura, as the vessel was a very large one and drew too much water to get into the harbor of Prevesa. We remained there all day, and a revenue cutter from the harbor came
102
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
out and took us on board and landed us at Prevesa. Prevesa is a seaport in Albania,
Turkey.
It is at the entrance to the

is
Arta, and this
Gulf of the same port where Greece
and Turkey fought in the war of 1897. We entered the harbor and the vessel dropped her anchors some distance from the shores. The captain of the cutter called to the crew of a little warship in the harbor to send a boat for us. The sailors of the warship came over in the captain's gig and
carried us to the port. I got my first sight and impression of the Greek navy from this
gunboat.
She was a beautiful model of naval architecture, lying very low in the water and painted black. Most of the crew were busy swabbing the decks or cleaning the guns and
brightening the brass work of the ship, but all of them were occupied doing various duties. The Greek naval officer believes in keeping the men busy, and they generally
find something for the result is their efficiency
men
and
to do,
and the
discipline are of
a very high standard.
103
CHAPTER
VIII.
First Impressions of Greek Navy Accommodations OF Turkish Hotel Bad Description OF Prevesa Fortifications
Mosques
self TO
onets.
Cemetery GuardedOrange Groves Turkish Captain Wounds HimKeep from Facing Greek Bay-
our boat reached the dock a dozen were standing there. They were very neat and genteel-looking in their natty and well-fitting uniforms, dark blue trousers, and jackets trimmed in white, with their
sailors
When
naval caps, with the name of the vessel in gold letters on the band. In stature they were below the height of the Americans, but
flat
symmetrical activity showed in their every
movement; in agility and energetic vigor they were fine specimens, showing that the pure lives they led at sea 'made them physical giants. Their sleeves were rolled up and I could see the muscles of their arms stand out like whipcords. Their faces and hands were brown from exposure, their eyes were
104
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
and
all
bright,
of
them had smiling
faces.
When I looked at their pleasant countenances and saw the straight and erect way each one carried himself, I was delighted, because an officer loves a well set-up man. These men were typical sailors. They should be, as Greece is famous for the sailors she has had.
We
it
met the captain of the port and he
directed us to one of the leading hotels. I do not remember the name of the hotel, but
Grand or Royal or some such high-sounding name, but it was a typical and characteristic Turkish hotel. It was the dirtiest, meanest and vilest little hole that it was ever my lot to see. The ceilings were
either
was
low, being not over seven or eight feet high, the floors were dirty, and the walls had never
been cleaned. Five and six beds were in each room. Bugs and vermin crawled on the
floor.
We had the proprietor and his assistant clean up one of the rooms, and, after working on it a couple of hours, it was fairly decent, but a camp in the open air, with a
blanket on the ground, would have been bet-
3 )
>,
5
J
>
>
'
>

ter.
105
holes without
The windows of the hotel were small any glass in them, no carpets on the floors, and only one or two broken
chairs in the room. in the hotel

see the town.
office,
We left
our knapsacks
stroll to
and then took a
It has only three streets, and they are very narrow, so narrow two vehicles could not
pass each other.
The houses were all very low and squatty, one and two stories high, built in the usual Turkish style, the same kind of house and of the same character that Turkey has constantly maintained for several hundred years. The streets were very dirty and were filled with stray cats and dogs. A number of Turkish boys and girls were wandering around, either begging or shining shoes. Numbers of Turkish citizens, all wearing their red fez caps, and Turkish ex-civil officials were walking around looking sour and discontented at the occupancy of the Greek army. I saw one ex-Turkish judge and he looked gloomier than all the rest, spending his time walking up and down
the streets, reflecting over his lost authority
106
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER away when the Greek army The Greeks had come and of course
that had faded

landed.
If I could have spoken Turkish, I would have advised him to move to Asia and get a job there.
came
to stay.
The
streets
were crowded with Greek
sol-
diers, as this was the first port or depot from which all the supplies of the army were forwarded to the interior. I walked up the main street to the old Turkish fort that" stands facing the harbor. It was an old fort and had been standing there for a number of years. It had a stone wall twenty feet high and the walls were pierced for artillery and infantry, but were old and rotten, showing every sign of decay and neglect. Inside of the walls was the Turkish mosque, cemetery, orange groves, and some of the homes or harems of the well-to-do The Turkish and prosperous Turks. best the was building in the mosque
enclosure.
It
is
fine
chitecture
and
it
well built.
piece of arThe walls are
of stone and
has a very high, round tower. The top of the tower is finished with a roof
107
of copper, shaped at the point like a cone. On this cone was painted the star and cres-
emblem of the Ottoman empire. Close to the top of the tower was a narrow platform all the way around, and on this
cent, the
platform the
Mohammedan muezzin
or crier
faithful to prayer several times a day, regularly at dawn, noon, four o'clock in the afternoon, sunset and nightcall the
fall.
would
The
interior of the
On one side with a stairway leading up to it. booth high This booth had a large wooden canopy over
a theater.
it,
mosque looked like of the wall was a
and the canopy had numerous paintings of stars and crescents, also mottoes written in large Turkish letters. Suspended from the high dome of the mosque was a large rod on the arms of the rod were suspended thirty glass jugs and bottles containing different colored waters. There were no seats in the buildings and all the Mohammedans were expected to sit on the floor, and all were expected to remove their shoes and leave them
;
at the door before they entered the building,
108
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
and their religion compelled every one before coming to the mosque to take a bath. At the time I saw this mosque the Greeks were using it as a storehouse for the quartermaster 's department. I saw great piles of clothing, blankets and bedding in the building, and these stores were the same that the Greek commander found when he captured Prevesa from the enemy. There were also great piles of overcoats, fatigue coats, and
large boxes of caps, underwear, knapsacks and haversacks, in fact everything that an
These stores had been abandoned by the Turkish commander when Prevesa surrendered. One part of the mosque was being used as a repair shop for
army
requires.
the
army automobiles.
I next went over to the old cemetery and found a guard, or Greek soldier, on duty there, showing that the government respected the Turkish dead. Across from the
a large orange grove, one of the largest in Turkey. That orange grove had been picked as clean as a whistle, and the
cemetery
is
only signs of oranges I could see were peel-
109
ings and skins on the ground. The boys of the Greek army had cleaned up everything
in sight, for which I
was very anxious to After examining everything in the old fortress I went out to the sea front facing Santa Maura and examined the modern fortress that guarded the harbor. This fort was an up-to-date piece of engineering, patI plans. could tell it was German design the moment I saw the gun pits. There were four of these
was very sorry, as I get some fresh oranges.
terned after the usual
German
pits,
and each one of them had a modern heavy calibre Krupp gun. These guns were of the latest style, and of the best make, and
of course are valuable prizes for the Greeks.
The Greek government will have to replace the breech blocks of these guns, as the Turkish gunners threw them into the sea before
These guns are very valuable, costing large sums of money and time and labor to put them in position. Each gun had a bombproof beside it, where the artillerymen could remain and receive some prothe
army
landed.
tection
from the
fire
of an enemy, and also
110
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
where the emergency ammunition or shells were kept. In the rear of the guns on one side of the fort were large piles of cannon balls, several thousand of them, and some distance away from the guns were the magazines of the fort, and in the magazines were large quantities of shells, enough to have
lasted a long siege.
All of this valuable
ammunition became property of the Greeks. Out in the harbor in front of the forts I could see the masts of two Turkish gunboats their commanders had sunk when they knew the Greeks would capture the city. These vessels will be raised and will become a part of the Greek navy. While the Greek army was landing in Prevesa a Greek officer, Captain Demetrious Cosmopolus, told me that he was one of the first officers that landed from one of the Greek transports. He said he found a Turkish officer in a room in the town with a pistolshot in his foot, and the Turkish officer admitted that he had such a dread of the bayonets of the Greek infantry that he shot himself in the foot rather
than face their bayo-
UNDER THE GBEEK FLAG

nets.
111
The captain told me this story at Fort Bey and I readily believed him. The government was using these magazines and forts as storehouses for army supplies, and
especially for the shells of the heavy artillery. The land in the rear of the forts was
being used by the Greek cavalry and their

light artillery.
112
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIEB
CHAPTER
Rebel Bands
IX.
Officers Real Monarchs Visits Hospitals and Finds All Clean AND SanitaryMeets with Plying Machine Expert of Greek Army.
After seeing the forts I went to the port and saw the coffee houses on the water front, and around the coffee houses were bands of Cretans and mountain rebels, or the independent soldiers of Epirus. These rebel bands were dressed in fantastic and
beautiful
officers
costumes. The clothing of the was gorgeous. Their coats were The coat was of fine dark blue cloth. a waist and skirt in one, with fine handworked designs on the sleeves and around
the collar, the trousers of the old style combination trousers and stockings, of a fine
grade of white woolen goods. Below the knees they wore highly ornamented garters of links of silver or colored beads. Their shoes were of red leather, and the pointed tips of the toes were decorated with large rosettes; the cap or headpiece was of black

silk
113
without brim or visor. Around the band of the cap was a mass of gold etching. In the front and center each officer wore the gold crown or emblem of the kingdom, showing his allegiance to the government. They are not the desperate, independent
Around
outlaws some people have pictured them. their necks were long chains of silver with large silver horseheads attached
to the chains.
Each man wore three
belts
and In addition to the belt around the waist was worn a large blue sash, and in it were as many as two or three long, ugly looking knives. Three hundred and fifty rounds of ammunition were carried by each man. Over their shoulders was a long, warm cape made
of cartridges, one belt around the waist the other two crossed over the shoulder.
of grey cloth; frequently a fine sheepskin with the wool on the outside was worn. They
it impeded But man was thorrapid progress. every oughly equipped for war and armed and pre-
would not wear overcoats, as
pared to fight at a moment's notice, usually in bands of fifty to seventy-five, and, as a
114
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
general rule, members of the same band were related to each other by blood or marriage. The officers and men had been trained to
from youth. The lives they led in the moT^ntains made them very serious looking. The Turks and Albanians dreaded these men more than any others, as they could stand any amount of exertion and could
fight
walk, run or climb the mountains for days at a time without showing any signs of fatigue.
They are regarded
as the best shots in
Europe, having been accustomed to the use of firearms from childhood, and they were taught to shoot as early as seven years of age. All of them wore their hair and beards long, and numbers of them had never been
them to look old and serious. were the proudest men I had met in the kingdom, each and every one carrying himself like a monarch, for monarch he really was, an independent free lance all his days. I talked with several of the officers and men of these ^* bands,'' and found them the essence of courtesy and affableness in conversation but when some one would hapshaved, causing
The
officers
115
pen to mention the word Turk, I could see an angry gleam come into their eyes and see them grasp the hilts of their knives or take a firmer grip on their rifles if the gvm happened to be in their hands. These men and their families had been living in the mountains for generations and had suffered persecutions from the Turkish soldiers and civil oflScials, and they knew
these Turks, not as the powers of Europe know them, but by daily contact and experiences.
rebels,
The Turks knew these mountain

as
they compelled the rulers
of
Epirus to modify their cruel exactions, and whenever a Turkish official made himself
intolerant they generally his conduct.
made him change

learned that I was
As soon as the ** bands"
an American volunteer on
my way
to join
Garibaldi, they could not show me enough attention, and every one wanted me to go with him. One captain was so enthusiastic he offered to give me his *'band" and let me
be the captain. **I considered
I thanked
it
him and told him,
the highest compliment I
116
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
ver received," also that I was attached to the Garibaldi legion and in addition to that was trained as a machine soldier and did not understand guerilla or mountain warfare.
replied that that made no difference to them, that he would teach me their mode of
fighting, but I showêd him it was impossible, as orders were to report to the general. All of them wanted to learn about America
He
my
and our people,
as
most of them had some
friend or relation in the United States, and niunbers of them spoke of coming to America as soon as the
Turks were driven out of I bade them Epirus. good-bye and said I would visit them when the war was ended, and agreed to spend several days in the
mountains with them hunting when peace
was established. While in Prevesa I went

hospitals.
been
fitted
some of the They were in buildings that had up hurriedly. Before the Greek
into
surgeons moved into the buildings the houses were cleaned, scoured and thoroughly disinfected.
The rooms were clean and very neat,
with iron beds with clean, white linen covers

on them.
117
Each hospital had its corps of surgeons and attendants. The hospital stewards and orderlies were everywhere, and these officers and soldiers were giving the sick and wounded every attention. They were attending the men with care and tenI derness that any woman would envy. talked with numbers of the patients, and cheered them and comforted them as much as I could, and told them I hoped to do some damage to their enemy. The patients were
glad that I called on them, as the slightest diversion interests a sick man. All had the
very best service and nourishment the army could provide, all the dainties available, such as fruits, soups, broths, etc., and every one was as comfortable as the nature of his
wound would permit.

After spending two days in Prevesa we to proceed to Phillapada. After securing seats in an army automobile driven by Lieutenant Camberos, Captain Cassone, Lieutenant Oswaldo and I boarded the ma-
had orders
chine for Phillapada. Captain Frankel, the other member of our party, remained in Pre-
118
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
vesa at the hospitals, as Captain Frankel was a medical officer. The machine that Lieu-
tenant Oamberos drove was a very large car and one that was being used to bring the sick and wounded to the hospitals. After our baggage was placed in it, Lieutenant Oamberos started the machine.
best fellows in the
He
is
one of the
Greek army, and speaks
He learned English languages. while attending a school of mechanics in England, and French while studying aeroplanes in Prance. He handled an automoseveral
bile like
an expert, and has mastered the
air
having charge of several of the flying machines, and his entire time in the army is devoted to driving autos or making flights in the aeroplanes. Lieutenant Oamberos is a very young man, but a man of great ability, very bold and absolutely fearless. After all were seated in the car, the lieutenant started it on the long drive to Phillapada. The road was very good, and had been
craft,
built
by competent French engineers for the Turkish government. The first stop made was on the site of the old Nicopolis. The
119
Mcopolis is one of the old ruins in Epirus and some of the walls are yet standing and in very good condition. The architecture is Eoman and was built by Augustus Caesar. He built the town in commemoration of his
victory of Actimn. I gazed at these ruins of bygone ages and thought of the changes that had happened in the land from the time of the Roman em-
Time changes, but men do not, war then and war now. We spent an hour at the Mcopolis, as Lieutenant Camberos had a large camp there where he kept
pire to the present.
his aeroplanes and extra automobiles. He showed me his flying machines, which were fine. They were built by the French, and
are models of grace and beauty, and of the best materials and workmanship.
While looking at them Lieutenant Camberos showed us an ugly cut on the side of his head that was slowly healing. He had received it a few days before in the machine during a flight and while attempting to land. His engine had stopped, but he managed
to guide the craft to the
ground when
it
ell^
120
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
and but for
his rare presence of
mind
in
guiding the aeroplane he would have been killed. As it was, he received this cut on the head as the machine fell when near the
ground.
After seeing his camp we resumed the journey and then commenced to get a fair idea of Epirus. The country is a mass of highlands consisting of large circular plains, closed in by high ranges of bare and snowcapped mountains almost devoid of trees, with here and there a few shrubs and buck bushes. The farms in the plains appeared to be fertile, as the tobacco and grain seemed abundant. The mountain sides were specked with flocks of sheep, goats and cattle, all
looking fat and strong.
The shepherds
at-
tending appeared as primitive as those five hundred years ago. They were dressed in the costumes of other centuries, numbers of
them wearing dresses and clothing of sheepskin, but they had the most innocent looking
faces I ever beheld.
were passing large detachments of troops in companies, battalions and regi-
We
ITNDEK
THE GREEK FLAG
121
ments, and
The
ing,
soldiers
were marching to Phillapada. were happy, shouting or singand were marching at a quick step.
all
Each was equipped in heavy marching order. In addition to his rifle and cartridge belt, each soldier had an overcoat, blanket, knapsack^ haversack, canteen and extra suits of underwear, also knife, fork, spoon, cup and an extra pair of shoes. His outfit weighed
seventy-one pounds, including the rifle, cartridge belt and bayonet. All were cheerful,
as they
knew the fight was to commence soon,
and all were tired of the monotonous drills. The daily routine in camp had become tiresome, and now it meant hard, steady work, where the training of all would show. After
passing these bodies of soldiers,
we overtook
the coromissary department of the army, and this department of the Greek army is well
managed by experienced
sisted of
officers.
ticular detachment of the
This pardepartment con-
hundreds of horses and mules, and large numbers of carts and wagons; each animal and vehicle was loaded with supplies the horses and mules had packs on their
;
122
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
and on the packs were large sacks of bread, beef, sugar, coffee and cans of oil. It was wonderful to see the big loads these little animals were carrying. The brutes were small, as the large horses were being used by the artillery and cavalry. Another reason was the little horses and mules were better
backs,
for the work, as they could carry loads up the mountain sides that would worry larger
horses.
The wagons were loaded with wood,
straw, tents, clothing, shoes, in fact everything the army required. The animals had
and the drivers were and laughing talking to one another as if they were going to a picnic.
soldiers leading them,
123
CHAPTER
X.
Arrival at the Front Phillipada Gen, Sapoundsakis Eeports for Duty Âssigned Quarters Sleeps on Hard Floor Meets Friends in Auto and Goes to Front with Them Prepare for Action
After the long trip through the mountains and along the shores of the Gulf of Arta,
we arrived at Phillipada late in the afternoon. It was very cold when we arrived, as
situated in the high mountains. Phillipada is the headquarters of the army in Epirus. The army was commanded by
the
town
is
General Sapoundsakis, and his headquarters were on the second floor of an old Turkish
Greek ofSficers and soldiers were as thick as flies around the headquarters. In addition to his staff were the former Greek consuls of the towns of Prevesa and Janina, and they acted as advisers to the general
residence.
about civil matters connected with Epirus. These gentlemen had spent years in Epirus
acting as representatives of the Greek government while the country was dominated
124
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
by Turkey, and it is wise on the part of the government for these men to remain constantly with the Greek commander. They are familiar with the people and the local conditions in Epirus, and I was told they were invaluable to the general.
deposited our baggage with the proprietor of a coffee house, and I proceeded
We
immediately to the headquarters and gave my letter to an attendant at the door. The door was opened and the old general called to me in English to enter. I walked in, and after reading the communication, he told me to call in the morning and he would make some disposition of our party. He realized that we were attached to the Garibaldi legion and not to his corps, and while talking to us, he told a staff officer to secure us quarters As we were retiring he rein the town. marked that he would send us on to Metsovo as soon as he took Janina, which he hoped to do in a few days. General Sapoundsakis is a very distinguished looking soldier and he had spent years of his life
in the service of the kingdom,
and was con-
125
sidered one of the best officers in the army. His hair and moustache are grey, his eyes
bright and he has a pleasant, kindly face. As we left his quarters a soldier escorted
us to the other end of the town and showed us a
room on
the second floor of an aban-
doned Turkish storehouse. The floors were very dirty, and after having them cleaned, our baggage was brought to the house and blankets spread on the floor. We built a fire in the stove and were ready to see the town. We went to the principal coffee house and met most of the officers on duty in the After eating and drinking, we borcity. rowed an empty bottle and candle from the proprietor and returned to our hotel. Climbing a set of rickety steps, we reached the room, or den, for it looked more like a den than a room. I took the bottle and put a candle in it, making a very good candlestick. Our valises we used for pillows. After a
good night's rest on the soft side of the

the general's headquarters at six o'clock in the morning,
floors,
we arose and reported to
but he had been gone just two hours, so
we
126
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
missed him.
He had
received information
that required his presence with the troops at the front, and got into his car and went
to them.
We breakfasted at the coffee house, and as

we were drove up
finishing the meal to the door and, to
an automobile
my
delight,
my
old friend, Matsoukas, the poet, Mr.
Kara-
meros, Mr. Theodoroplous and Lieutenant Camberos were in it. After exchanging salutations, these gentlemen told us they were going to the front with the army and invited
us to accompany them in the machine. We agreed and all climbed into the car, and Camberos started out the road to Klissoura, another depot of the army between Bezanie and Phillapada. At the time we were leaving several regiments of infantry and eight
batteries of artillery
had
soon passed them and
just started. finally arrived at Klis-
We
soura, where we found General Sapoundsakis busy with his officers. reported to
We
him, and he told us to go on with the infantry and do the best we could, and to make ourselves useful as well as ornamental. Lieu-
127
tenant Camberos could go no further, as he was ordered to return to Phillapada with a
number
of sick soldiers.
Mr. Matsoukas and
Lieutenant Oswaldo climbed onto the limber chest of one of the guns as a large number
of batteries were leaving. Captain Cassone and I decided to go with the officers of the infantry regiment.
We
had past experiences riding on the limber chest of a piece of artillery, and preferred
caught up with the seventh regiment and soon struck up an intimacy with its officers. They were very pleased to have us with them, and we soon became a
to walk.
We
marched all congenial marching party. the morning and afternoon, and the mounbecoming higher and higher, also the air much colder. The regiment would
tains were
halt often, as the horses pulling the heavy guns and caissons of the artillery required frequent rest. The last I ever saw of Lieu-
We
tenant Oswaldo he was sitting on a limber

chest singing Italian songs, and Matsoukas was singing the lays of Greece. At five o'clock that afternoon a staff officer
128
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
colonel
came over the mountains and told the
of the seventh regiment to halt his men and get ready for a fight, as the Greek cavalry
reported a large body of Turkish infantry in the mountains. The regiment halted on the side of the road and prepared for battle.
column rested near a large Turkish hotel or roadhouse that had been abandoned a few days before. It had been shelled by the artillery of the Greeks from the mountain on the left. And as a large body of Turkish infantry had been encamped near the hotel, the shells had driven them away, and during the bombardment the Greek shells had wrecked the building. It was a large stone house, and a high stone I saw pieces of wall enclosed the place. broken shells, and there were large, gaping holes in the buildings and walls when the Turkish army retreated. They burned the hotel and all the houses. It was really a small village. The hotel was opposite the town of Besta, but some two and a half miles from the town and on the Phillapada road. The only life to be seen were cats and dogs,
of the
The head
* e
e* t*
129
which were very numerous. Everything had been pillaged and burned.
While the regiment was standing in line awaiting the enemy, Captain Cassone and I took a scout up the mountain road where the
general's staff officer reported the enemy to be. As we left the head of the column on
the site of the hotel
we
could see on the road
in our front thousands of
Mauser cartridges
and numbers of cups, tin pans, knapsacks, haversacks, fez caps and numbers of other
things the Turkish army had thrown away in their hasty flight. After walking a mile and a half along the
side of the
mountain road, we saw a body of
troops near the base of the mountain. We paused and scanned them closely, as we could not tell whether they were our troops or the enemy, and while standing there gazing at them, a voice from the side of the road ^^ Who's there?" At called to us in Greek, the time the voice called I could hear the click of a gun. We answered very promptly *^ Friends," and a Greek soldier came from behind a large stone, and to our delight he
130
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
proved to be an American Greek volunteer. His name was William Christopher, of Rochester, New York. He had been in the country only a few days, and he told us that the troops at the foot of the mountain was a battalion of the fifteenth Greek infantry. We were as glad as they that they were our friends, and we went down the mountain and
joined them.
The officers and men were pleased to see us and asked us to remain with them, as it was getting dark and the rain was beginning to fall. This battalion consisted of four companies, two at the foot of the hill, and two more companies a mile up the valley. The officers sent us to the other two companies, as the major of the battalion was with them, and the major had a large tent that he had captured from a Turkish officer at the battle
of Besta.
131
CHAPTER
The Turks Fire on
tillery
XI.
Seek Cover Mule Runs AwayMajor DouLos' Daring MoveDescription of

We
Fort Bey.
Us^ but Having No ArCannot Return Fire Men
We
and
day.
arrived at the major's tent wet, cold tired, as we had made a long march that
The major was glad to see us, as the regiment had been in the mountains for several days, and had had no news from the outside world.
We remained in his tent until a
eating bread, cheese and very meat, and drinking some koniak the old soldier had been saving for a special occasion. While talking to the major a very bright and
late hour,
ment
dazzling light struck the tent, and for a moit seemed to us the searchlight of an
automobile. I asked the major how in the world an automobile could get on this mountain
snow and ice. The old soldier laughed and said, *^We just arrived at this camp and it must be the searchlight from the forts of Bezanie." I told him if their
of
132
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
searchlight could reach here so could their cannon balls. While the light was shifting
from one mountain

strange sight to see
valleys
to
it
another,
it
was a
and hills. and take me I am ready for you,* come am, at any hour of the day or night." It made such a vivid impression on me that I sat up
;
gleaming through the It seemed to say, ^^Here I
all
while talking to several Greeks from America. My clothing was wet and I was chilled through, but the major and
night watching
it
Captain Cassone had retired to the tent and were trying to sleep. My instinct told me that as soon as daylight came, a fight would start. The camp was lying in plain view of the light, and whenever the light would flash on the hillsides in the raised valley between the mountains I could see the camp and the
men
in their shelter tents as plain as day.
The next morning, the rain stopped, and came out and while waiting for breakfast, several of the American volunas the sun
teers
walked out to the edge of the elevated valley, and while standing near the end of
the valley gazing in the direction of the forts
133
and commenting on how to take them, some one in the party asked where the forts were. The words were hardly uttered before a screaming and whistling sound, growing louder all the time, could be heard by us, and in a few moments a big shrapnel shell fell in
the center of the camp, bursting with a ter-
This one was followed by to us that the forts of others, Bezanie expected us to move. As we were directly in the line of fire, I ordered the men to "cover." They inished to the side of the mountain, and crouched behind boulders and
rific
explosion.
and was a hint
depressions of the ground. The men in the camp had gathered most of the mules and
horses and sought the cover of the mountain opposite. The shells were falling and burst-
ing every moment, but we were out of the line of fire behind the rocks watching them
The shells were making and ribbons of our shelter tents, and rags other equipment. While we were looking at them, I saw a most ludicrous sight. One of the little mountain mules that carried one of the rapid fire guns was tied to a
as they exploded.
134
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
shrub, when a piece of shrapnel or flying stone struck him. The pain as well as the
explosion startled him. He broke the hitch rope and almost flew through the camp of
shelter tents.
Over the
shelter tents, in
and
out of kitchens, over guns, men or anything else in his way he ran. He was scared almost
to death, and as his fright increased, so did his speed. All the time he was running
wildly about, he Avas braying as loud as he could. The sight was so amusing, the army
burst out laughing, and the last the battalion saw of that mule he was going up the side
of one of the mountains with his ears laid
back on his head, traveling faster than any race horse. As he disappeared over the top of the mountain, the volunteers as with one voice cheered and encouraged him. That mule became famous in the annals of the battalion, and no matter how serious conditions were in the trying days that followed, every one laughed when the little frightened
army mide was mentioned.
We remained on the side of the moimtain

two hours waiting for the
fire
to
cease.

it
135
Finally
stopped and the

hill
men came from
and started to return to the about half way to the were camp. camp and in the middle of the valley and when the gunners caught sight of us they turned a dozen guns on the camp and the bombardment became fiercer. I told the men
behind the
We
down, thus lessening the chances of being struck by the shrapnel or stone that were flying in all directions. The men obeyed instantly and they lay on the ground perfectly
to lie
while pieces of shrapnel and stone flew around us. But the fire continued at least an hour. The Turks were evidently satisfied they had caused great damage, but to our relief we discovered that no one was hurt; a few men had been hit by fragments of stones, but none seriously. One or two horses or mules were killed, and several were slightly
still
all
bruised.
When
the fire
was
over,
the battalion
quickly moved
the tents
and camp equipage
out of the line of danger behind a hill. We remained on the side of this hill till dark, and then sent two companies down the road
136
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
to another hill directly in front of Fort Bezanie, but a mile closer to it than our present
camp.
It
was a very bold thing
to do, but
the very best
move
that could have been
made. The Turks assumed that this advance guard of the army would retire, as his artillery fire had been very heavy that morning. He knew he had the range of the camp because he could see the shells exploding in the midst of it. It was a daring thing to do to
occupy this hill, right in his teeth, but Major Doulous took the very step that his military knowledge or instinct dictated, but he was very cautious in the way he moved his troops to the hill, as he sent them down the mountain in detachments of seven, eight, nine, and
If the enem}^ caught the men the mountain side coming down, they on; would have small targets instead of big comten at a time.
panies.
The companies that occupied the hill were numbers nine and eleven, commanded by Captains Demetrius Cosmopolous and Petrolaksis. Both companies were successful
in reaching the hill without
drawing the
fire
137
of the forts, but the men leading the mules and horses were not so fortunate. The last
soldier of the
companies reached the
hill
about nine o'clock, before the searchlights of the enemy had been brought to bear on us.
While the men were leading the horses down the hill and as they were about half way to us, the searchlight played on them, and to me it was the most weird sight I ever saw the drivers and horses on that dark and gloomy mountain were all of a sudden brought into plain view of the enemy. The hills and valleys were as black as the gloom and shadows could make them, and as soon as the enemy saw that our men were occupying the hill in his front, his rage knew no bounds, and he turned loose every gim in the forts on our drivers and animals. As soon as the men knew they were discovered, they urged the little animals down the mountain at a trot and fortunately arrived on the hill
without the loss of a single man or animal, although the forts were throwing their shells as fast as the enemy could send them.
The
siege
was now on
in earnest,
and the
138
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
lyirkish commander in; his forts realized that the Greek army occupied the best and most strategic point in the mountains. As
soon as the last
man and animal
reached the
hill, every soldier was directed to make himself as comfoi'table as circumstances would
allow and every one of them was cautioned to
keep his equipment on, and to have his rifle where he could reach it, because no one knew at what moment the Turkish commander would send a large body of infantry to the
hill to
dislodge the battalion.
Captain Cosmopolous immediately put out guards or sentinels in the broad plain in
front of the
hill,
and cautioned the outposts
in case they saw or heard the enemy coming, to fire their pieces and join us on the hill as rapidly as possible. He also cautioned the
guard, when they reached the plain, to go some three hundred yards out on the plain and get behind stones or depressions in the
ground and to lie there perfectly still, and under no circumstances to strike a light or make any sound. IVliile the guard was being placed, the men were sitting around on
UNDER THi; GREEK FLAG
139
the hillsides, laughing and talking among themselves. Every soldier was elated at
and without suffering any casualties. We remained there all night, and the next morning had a good view of our surreaching the
hill
roundings.
The hill we occupied was a mass of rough and ragged rock, sticking out of the ground, with a few shrubs and bushes growing among the stones; the hill was about one hundred feet high, and about two hundred and fifty feet in diameter at the base, and was shaped
like a cone.
each side of us was a broad plain or valley extending to the mountain ranges the flat plain on our right was a half mile wide and as level as a floor. This plain had been
;
On
used by the Turkish people for tobacco fields. On the edge of the plain, on a sugar loaf hill, was a large village that had been sacked and burned before their army retreated into Janina. We could see some of the walls of the houses standing, but the whole village showed that it had been destroyed. On our left was another plain or valley three hun-
140
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
dred yards wide, and at the edge of this valley was the main road, or the Turkish road
from Phillapada to Janina. This road was in plain view of us and wound around the side of the mountain up to Fort Bezanie. The road was very high, as the engineers had built it winding around the mountain side and had built retaining walls on the edge of the road in some places as high as forty and fifty feet. Directly in the rear of us, at the foot of our hill, was a road that led to the towns of Besta and Art a. This was the road we used in reaching our hill, which Avas known as Bey, and it was
that led
immediately christened Fort Bey. Where the road in our rear crossed was a high mountain that rose up almost perpendicular to its top from our hill. In our front was a broad, flat plain extending to Fort Bezanie. The jjlain was about two and a half miles long and about a mile wide. Fort Bezanie was situated on top of the
highest range of mountains, and the moment I saw these forts with the mountain ranges
on each side of them, and the broad,
treeless
141
plain in our front, I knew then it was the Gibraltar of Turkey in Europe, and that the
Greek army would lose thousands of men and spend thousands of dollars, and take months to capture or destroy them. Fort Bezanie is a natural stronghold, and It seemed that it was as impregnable as a fort could be made. I did not have much opportunity to examine them at this particular time, for as soon as the mist and the clouds rolled away from Fort Bey, our position, the guns of Bezanie let loose and shell after shell fell around us, and over us, and on each side
of us, by the hundreds. The explosion of the shells and the thunders from the guns
seemed as
all
if hell itself
had broken
loose,
and
day long that hail of iron continued. Luckily for us, the shells were going to the right and left of us, and sometimes large numbers of them would fall on the mountain in our rear, but only a short distance from us, as the hill in our rear rose up almost straight and was only one hundred yards
away.
We
sat there all day,
watching the
effect
142
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
of their shells, and sometimes one of them would strike a big boulder, and when it did,
it
would throw tons of rock in the
air,
and
keep our people busy dodging the fragments, as the stones would fly high in the air and would come amongst us. Only a few men were injured by the missiles and none of them seriously. It seemed a miracle that this storm of iron caused no more damage than it did. While the shells were flying I watched the faces of the battalion closely, and never saw any signs of fear or fright on any of them. These two companies numbered five hundred men, and some of them had never been in the face of artillery fire before, as most of them were volunteers that had been in the army only thirty or sixty days, but no signs of fear in that battalion. As soon as the fragments of stone commenced to fly the men were cautioned to
build bombproofs and the men paired off and built stone walls four feet high and five
and six feet long. They used in building for the bombproofs loose stones and large boulders. Apparently this would not seem to

afford
143
much protection, but these bombthe lives of the men scores of saved proofs times. Sometimes a shell would strike on our hill and the iron missiles would hit the bombproof and the only damage our men would receive would be a few bruises from
the splinters of the walls. nel would strike the wall
When
its
the shrapforce would be
The men had spent a sleepless several of them were sitting beand night hind the bombproof s they had finished and were sound asleep. The previous night had been wet and cold, and as the sun was shining down on this little army, getting warmer and warmer, tired nature asserted itself. The officers of the comchecked.
panies were busy watching the

forts
fire
of the
and Captain Cosmopolous, Captain Cassone and I were on top of the hill watching the fort and especially were looking to see if the Turkish general would send his
infantry across the plain to attack us. The Turkish commander evidently thought his artillery would drive us off. This is where
he made his mistake.
This battalion was in-
144
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
structed to hold this hill until our artillery would or could be brought to it, and all day
we
sat there
under their
fire,
unable to an-
swer them, but holding the hill. The Turkish commander could have sent his infantry to the hill and dislodged our troops, because we were only five hundred men. It is true we had several thousand back of us, at Besta, also three regiments on our left, on the road that leads from Phillapada to Janina, but these troops could not have been of much help to us, as the roads through the defiles were so narrow that our troops would have been compelled to pass in plain view of
the guns of the enemy's forts, and in coming through the defiles in solid columns, his guns
would have raked our columns and we would have lost thousands of men. But the arrogance and conceit of his artillerymen was so great, they presumed they would shell this
battalion
so small
from the
hillside.
He knew
that
our numbers were very few, as the

it
could not accommodate

;
hill was more than
two companies so we were constantly on the
Uh
TINDER
THE GREEK FLAG
145
lookout for his infantry, but they did not come.
placed at intervals on the hillsides, each one erected his little shelter tent and made himself comfortable, if you can call comfortable to have a piece of
After the
men were
canvas three feet high to cover your head and the soft side of a rock for a bed.
lU
146
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
CHAPTER
XII.
Our Artillery Arrives The Artillery Duel Begins Capt. Dighenis a Scientific Gunner In Which Soldiers Have TO Eat as Well as Fight Turks Are Unable to Locate Our Batteries.
Every man on the hillside knew that he would spend some time there because at the end of the first day's bombardment we could see the road a half a mile on our left, and on this road large numbers of horses and thousands of men were hauling and dragging the guns of a battery up the hill and down
the steep retaining wall of a road into the dry bed of a creek where the battery was to
be planted, the only place it could be located without being destroyed by the guns of Fort
Bezanie.
The men and horses of this battery evidently worked all night, for, as soon as
the sun rose in the morning, we looked over there and saw a red pennant flying, showing that the battery was in position and ready to
go to work. Not only were the guns in position, but the tents of the artillervmen were
147
erected, and we could see the men eating their breakfast, and getting ready for a hard
day's
fight.
About eight o'clock the clouds and mists cleared away, and I could see on the side of the mountain on our left the officers of the
battery mounting to the top of the hill in front of Bezanie, so they could see the effect
of their shells, and be able to give the men at their battery the range. Leading from
the battery
was a chain of
officers that
commissioned
officers and nonwere placed at in-
tervals to give the range when the captain of the battery sent the word to the cannoneers.
as the captain got the range, even at the distance of half a mile, I could hear his
As soon
sharp and piercing voice call ^^fire." His guns were all loaded, and the battery fired a salute to the Turks, notifying him that his days were numbered. Our people at Fort Bey went wild at this salute they whooped, yelled and howled in their delight and danced and sang songs, because we were now in a position to answer their forts, and it was a great relief to us
;
148
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
when the shells from our battery commenced to fly. We had been sitting there
all
fire and unable to answer them. I remarked to Captain Cosmopolous that we were sending the enemy a few ** railroad irains," and the captain, not understanding our American military slang, wanted to know why I called the shells ** railroad
getting their
trains."
I told
him
that
was the pet name
our gunners gave the shells that our batteries used in the war in 1898, and whenever the gunners on one of our ships fired a shell from one of the big guns, the whole crowd around the gun would yell, ^* There goes another railroad train." The captain
laughed and communicated this slang to the troops on our hill, and, from that time, big shells were known as railroad trains. I had a pair of glasses and got a good view of this battery. It was a four-gun battery of
Krupps
of the style
and model of
1882, but heavy calibre, the bores of the pieces being four and one-eighth inches in diameter. The captain of this battery was named Dighenis, and I considered him one

T)f
149
the best, if not the best, officer of artillery that I saw in the army. He was doing
an almost impossible thing in firing the shells over a hill at the forts and making hits with his shots. The guns were of the style that are ordinarily required to be in view of the enemy, but he was a genius, and
struck a clever plan of being able to fire the shells over the mountain out of view of the
enemy without exposing
the battery. His cleverness and ability entitled him to substantial recognition from the war depart-
ment.
The men
at the guns were
beavers, artillerymen from the limber chests to the pieces as fast as they could, each man carrying two heavy
shells at a time.
the
working like were running
forts all day. fire at our hill

side of us,
This battery fired at the The Turks redoubled their and in the valleys on each
presuming that the battery was
immediately near
cause
us. We knew better bewe could see the battery. While this bombardment was going on, the cooks of company nine were getting a
150
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
hill
kitchen in order on the side of the

to the
next
arhill,
Krupp
battery.
hill.
The head cook
ranged his kitchen on that side of the
and half way np the
The kitchens conbehind
sisted of holes in the ground, lodged
large boulders and stones serving as bombproofs for the men and protection to the large pots and kettles the cooks used to boil
the beans and stew the
meat
in.
as the kitchens were in order the
As soon men were
served some stewed rice, stewed beef, and hot Turkish coffee. All of the men needed this
nourishment, as the battalion had been unable to eat sooner.
The artillerymen
in the
Turkish forts
were deceived as to the location of the battery, because their fire was everywhere except at the battery. One reason why they
were deceived was that when they heard ti:e reports from the guns, the sound appeared to them as coming from the side of our position on the right. The sound from the guns would pass down the valley and across our hill and out on the plain to our right. The Krupp guns were using smoke-

less
151
powder, and as the enemy was governed entirely by sound it was very natural that he was deceived. The Turkish batteries fired shells by the thousands and none did any
damage. We would watch their shells when they passed up the valley on each side of us and over our heads, and when they burst on the sides of the mountains and did no damage, our troops would grin and laugh, and sometimes a Greek would say to me, ^Î
wonder what the damn fool is shooting at." Our battery and the guns of the Turkish forts roared and thundered all day, biit, as the sun went down, and darkness came
on, the fire ceased.
I have no doubt but the guns
that the
men who were working
were tired and almost exhausted, because the fire was hot and continuous. That night, about eight o'clock, two engineer officers of the army and a large body of men reached our hill safely, and built several roads on the hillside, where we could plant some more batteries. They
built the roads
by dragging huge boulders out of the paths and filling in the spaces
152
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
with loose stones and soft earth. Their work was done before dawn, and they quietly moved across the valley on our left to the roadside without being fired at by the forts. As soon as the sun rose, the bombardment was renewed, and continued all day. Fortune was with us. We escaped without any casualties. The Turkish commander was
getting desperate and
wildly at every
hill,
commenced to fire valley and every moun-
tain, trying to locate the
About two
Krupp battery. o'clock in the afternoon, we heard faint cheering from the men at the guns of
the battery, but the distance for us to learn the cause.
see the effect of his fire,
was too great
We
knew
that
Captain Dighenis on the mountain top could and Captain Cosmopolous on our hill became so anxious
to
learn the
cause
to
find
of the
he
decided
cross
out.
the
cheering that plain to the

valley
battery
and
The
a
on
field
our
left
looked
like
ploughed
as the Turkish guns were sending their shells down this valley by the hundreds. The
ground was soft and the
shells
would
strike
153
the earth and tear big holes in the ground. Captain Cosmopolous crossed this valley safely and we were relieved to see him get
behind a spur of the mountain side. While he was crossing the shells were bursting all around him, and after spending two hours at the batteries the captain came back safe and sound and with the news that one of our shells had dismounted one of the Turkish
guns.
This seems a small incident, but it meant much, as it would be one big gun less to play on us, and beside a few more shots like that would give the forts into our hands. As soon as the men on the hill got the news they went wild, and it took the officers some time to quiet them. This little battalion, in their enthusiasm, would have charged those forts then and there if some one had suggested
it,
few in number as they were.
154.
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
CHAPTER
Artillery
XIII.
Reinforcements Arrive and Placed in Position The Fight Getting Hotter Enemy Gets Range on Battery and We Have to Move It CawCaw Moves the Kitchen Infantry Attack Repulsed with Great Loss.
As soon
as darkness
came
on, the fire
ceased for the day, and by eleven o'clock that night we had sixteen rapid-fire Snyder
guns on our
hill; in
addition to the guns
thirty caissons filled with ammunition, also horses to pull the guns away, in case we
By daylight sixteen guns were in position and ready to commence their work of destruction and death While the guns were being
these
.
should be compelled to retire.
placed, our closer to us.

left
general
moved
the
infantry
and
at
They were on the roads to our Besta. His judgment told him
that
ish
when these batteries opened, the Turkcommander would become desperate.
These guns were arranged on the hill of Fort Bey as follows; four on each side of

the half
155
under a slight rise, so as to protect the guns and the men from the shells of the Turks; two batteries, or eight guns, at the foot of our hill on the road that crossed the hill and at the foot of the high mountain behind us. When the troops on Fort Bey woke up
hill,
way up
to the top, but
the next
hill
morning they saw a
sight the like
of which no
man
ever witnessed before. The
had become so crowded with artillery, guns, horses and men, there was room The enough for scarcely another man. caissons and spare limber-chests were placed at the foot of the hill. The horses were
brought half way up the side of our hill before the batteries opened. We brought all of our men that were near the top of the
hill
down
closer to the middle, as eight of
our guns were getting ready to fire over the hill, and their range was only five feet above the top of our hill. If our men had been permitted to remain near the top they would have been in danger of being killed by our
own
guns.
o'clock in the
About nine
morning the
of-
156
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
took their stations. The officers of the eight guns behind and only a hundred yards from us, climbed the mountain in the rear, as it was higher than
ficers of these batteries
Port Bey and they could get a better view of the Turkish forts. The officers of the two batteries on the sides of the hill went to the top of Port Bey to get their ranges. These officers of Port Bey had to crouch or stoop, as they might have been struck by the shells of the batteries on the roadside. Every man on our hill was deeply concerned, as he knew the moment these batteries opened the fight would be on in earnest.
Pinally, the range was called to the gun sergeants at the pieces, and the hillside
looked like a mountain of

sions were terrific,
it
fire.
The concus-
and all dav a rain of iron seemed as if the world was continued; coming to an end. Clouds commenced to gather as the noise and concussions reverberated through the valleys and hills. Rain commenced to fall, but no cessation of the guns. These batteries threw their iron mes-
157
sengers as fast as skillful officers and experienced men could work them.
I noticed the immense superiority of the Snyder guns over the Krupps. The former
and faster, and as soon as the Turk in Bezanie realized that he had an enemy in his front that was growing bolder and more aggressive day by day, he woke
fired faster
been lying there like a sleeping lion, but now he realized that he must do something, and the result was that he trained all the batteries of his forts on our hill. The hill seemed a living, seething furnace. The Greek batteries were firing at the forts as fast as human hands could work the guns. The forts were returning the fire. Captain Dighenis with his Krupp battery on our left was busy with his guns as usual. We now had twenty guns on the forts, and every one was expecting an infantry attack, because the Turkish commander had to do one of two things: either compel our batteries to retire or have his forts hammered to pieces. Well did our general know this, and he kept large bodies of infantry standup.
He had
158
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
fire
ing on the roads out of the line of for them.
ready
Our batteries were firing faster and faster,

and
finally the
Turks got the range of our
four-gun battery on our left, as it did not have as good protection as the others. The battery was compelled to move. If it had not, every man and every gun around it would have been destroyed. We finally moved it without any damage to the men or pieces, but the other three, in addition to
Dighenis, kept up the bombardment. very amusing thing occurred when the
Turks located the battery on our left. The company nine was only thirty feet from it and a little above. As soon as I saw the Turks get the range of this battery, I told the head cook at the kitchen we must move. We called him CawCaw. He was so dark that he looked like a raven, his hair and eyes were black, and his skin very dark, and some one. Captain Cassone, I believe, dubbed him
kitchen of
Caw-Caw, a name that

rest of his life.
will follow
him
the
fel-
He
is
one of the finest
159
lows in the army, and a splendid cook, but Caw-Caw saw no reason for moving the kitchen, and remarked that it cost time and
trouble to build that kitchen.
told
him
all right, if
I laughed and he did not move it a
Krupp
shell
would.
I hardly finished
my
talk with
large shrapnel struck a big pot of beans he was preparing for dinner. The shell exploded when it struck
him when a
the kitchen and scattered pots, pans, beans, and some boiling water, which struck Caw-
Caw on
his face
and hands.
I ever saw.
Caw-Caw was
The
boiling
the maddest
man
water pained him so that he danced and howled in rage. He shook his fist in the di-
and told the Turks what he would do to them if he ever laid hands on them. I saw Caw- Caw was not hurt very much, and suggested again that we had better move the kitchen. Caw-Caw had no more objections and the kitchen was moved in a hurry, Caw-Caw cursing and grumbling
rection of the forts,
all
the time.
We moved the kitchen about two hundred

feet to the right
and on the same
line that
160
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
was formerly. This incident created some amusement to the men. All the time the kitchen was being moved, the shells were Captain Cosmopolous falling around us. and I went up to the top of the hill where we could get a good view of the enemy. We had good glasses, and could see them disThe fire of our batteries had betinctly. come so fierce that the Turkish commander
it
decided to send a big body of infantry across the plain to dislodge us, and, as we reached the top of Fort Bey, we could see three
columns of infantry crossing from their

forts to the plain to
make
the attack.
Our
artillery officers
caught sight of them
as they issued from their forts and let them get some distance away from the forts and
out on the plain. The batteries were then changed from the range of the forts to their columns and commenced to fire shell after
shell into
shells,
them.
They could not stand the
and
so retreated back to their forts
as fast as possible. They were thrown into disorder and broke their columns to pieces.
great
number were
killed
and wounded,
>'
'
J,
e,*ct.
tNDEK THE GREEK FLAG

but
IGl
of learning. It seemed to me the height of insanity for a commander to send troops at an enemy in
how many we had no means
columns, as no column, no matter how large, could cross that plain in the face of our batIf columns or skirmish lines either teries.
could have crossed the plain our would have made an attack on
this.
commander him before The Turkish commander had evident-
ly
been trained in these tactics and natural-
Our battely was following his training. ries taught him a good lesson, and he never repeated any such suicidal moves again.
As soon
as the
men
learned that our guns
had driven the Turkish army back into their forts, they whooped and yelled for a long
as their infantry retreated our artillery officers got their ranges on the forts again, and the bombardment continued.
time.
As soon
As near
as I could judge there seemed to be about thirty-five thousand soldiers in and
around the Turkish
forts,
and
it
was gener-
ally agreed by all the officers this estimate was correct.
We
with us that were at the
top of the
11
hill
and could
see
numbers of men
162
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
leading and carrying wounded Turks to their forts. I believe their losses were not
than two hundred, as the columns that were attempting to make the advance numbered at least ten thousand men. While this bombardment was on our general had managed to send divisions of the army to the mountain ranges on our right and left, preparatory to making a combined attack on the infantry of the Turks. The mountain ranges were so
less
high and the ground so rough that he was able to send only light mountain batteries with the troops, as they could be handled on the backs of the horses. He also
guns light infantry rapid-fire very effective and destructive guns, espefor defense, or against masses of troops or in columns. It took our general three days to get these divisions on the
cially
sent
machine
mountains, the nature of the ground being almost impossible for men to operate. We could see the division on our left getting
ready for the attack. Long lines of infantry climbed the mountains, slowly but surely,
Under the greek flag
163
and numbers of them with long ropes, hauling and pulling the guns of the artillery. Finally the division on our left managed to get two batteries in position and overlooking
the Turkish forts.
Our
division on the right
was equally successful and managed to get two mountain batteries in position. The army was now ready for the assault. The signal for the assault was to be three guns fired one after the other from the Krupp or Dighenis battery, and the assault was to commence at three o'clock in the
morning.
our batteries finished the day's bombardment, we knew that our infantry would attack the next morning. The night before, the officers on Fort Bey sat
there waiting for the signal
batterv.
When
from the Krupp
164
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIEfe
OHAPTEE
XIV.
Bombardment Becomes General
Our In
fantry Engages the Enemy and Almost Gain the Works Our Big Guns Drive THE Turkish Infantry Back to Their Forts Charge of the Efzones The Barber Leaves a Soldier Half Shaved.
In the meantime, the artillerymen had all of our guns ready with piles of shells close where the men could get them quickly, as orders were to open on the forts with a
heavy
fire. Precisely at three o'clock three loud reports sounded from the Krupp bat-
tery and were answered almost instantly from the batteries on the mountains on the right and on the left of us. As soon as we knew the army was ready, the guns from
Fort Bey fired shell after shell at the enemy, and by daylight we could hear now and then the sharp and steady report from the rifles of our infantry on the right and
left,
showing that they had engaged the infantry of the enemy. All day long it was one
UNDEK THE GREEK FLAG

steady
fire
165
of the men.
JSTow
and then Cos-
mopolous and I would see shell after shell from the Turkish forts of Bezanie fall and explode on the ranges of the mountains on
our right.
We could not see our own troops,
as the top of the mountains concealed them from us. could hear the mountain bat-
We
teries often, especially if there
happened
guns.
to
be a
held
lull in
the fire of our
own
To me
was the grandest sight I ever beartillery firing from all directions and
it
our own guns growing louder all the time, as our men were getting warmed up to their work. Shells were exploding everywhere,
and whenever they struck huge piles of stones would fly. Every one on the hill was
intensely excited, because we covild hear the mountain batteries firing faster and faster,
and the fire of the infantry growing stronger and stronger. Now and then we would hear the long and continuous whirr of our machine guns on the right. We could not tell whether the division was retreating or advancing because of the noise of our own fort. During all this time, Fort Bezanie was firing
166
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
at our people on the left and on the right, and at us in the center. This fire continued
day, and that night we learned that our division on the right had advanced half a mile closer to the forts, hut the Turkish inall
fantry was retiring slowly and in good order, contesting every inch of ground. That
night until eleven o'clock we could hear the reports of small arms of the troops on the right, but about midnight the fire ceased.
forts stopped firing, and the next morning the guns of the fort opened on each
The
daylight. Now and then we fire of the infantry, especially the whirring sounds of the machine guns and also the mountain batteries. hap-
other
at
could hear the
We
pened to glance across to the mountain range on our right, and to our surprise we saw
two of our own regiments lying on the side of a mountain in a depression in view of the people on Fort Bey, but hidden from the view of the Turkish forts, because the rise in the ground was between our two regiments and the enemy. The regiments remained there a short time and we could see
167
them
toiling
up the high snow-capped moun-
tains, finally
disappearing over the tops. Our general had managed to send these two regiments across the plain that night to reinforce our division on the mountain. In two more hours we could hear the sounds on
our right increase, and we knew that the regiments were in action with the rest of the division, and in a very short time we could see large bodies of Turkish infantry retreating to their forts, as our men had driven them from the side of the mountain
to the top of the plateau,
and the enemy was

had
moving rapidly. In the meantime, the

trained
all
forts at Bezanie
their
guns at our division on the
right, as none of their shells were falling around us. The noises from their forts
were as loud as usual and we could see thousands of their shells falling on the mountains in front of their troops, who were re=tiring to their forts. As soon as our artillery commanders caught sight of the Turkish infantry on the mountain top, we did the same thing Fort Bezanie was doing. We
168
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
trained our guns at their retreating infantry, and this hastened them, and increased Here was a remarkable their confusion.
guns of two opposing armies firing at infantry. It showed me the value of artillery, and we had one advantage our guns would fire faster than those of the enemy. Our shells were not as large as
sight
heavy
those of the Turks, but made up in rapidity what was lacking in weight, and the result was that the Turkish infantry was seeking
their breastworks or earthworks near their
forts.
fire lasted for several hours and finalI a large body of Ef zones come over saw ly the top of the moîiitain on a run, charging
This
Their a long line of Turkish infantry. charge was irresistible, as the Efzones or highlanders were advancing by rushes, taking advantage of every rock, bush or depression of the ground. These Efzones would run for a hundred yards and then lie down and as soon as they fired several rounds the
;
enemy would
retreat.
They would make

tactics.
another rush and repeat the same
169
All this time the guns of Bezanie were throwing shells at them, but most of the
shells
were flying over the heads of the Ef-
It was now getting late in the evenI saw a sudden movement of the and ing, Efzones. They rose up from behind their rocks or covers and made a desperate charge at the Tvirks, which was successful. The rush of the men was so great that the enemy broke and ran to their covers, the Efzones following them closely. The soldiers on our hill were wild with excitement. It was the
zones.
boldest charge any soldiers ever made, as the Efzones, after coming over the top of
the mountains, were in plain view of the Turkish artillery. I have read of the charge
of the Light Brigade at Balaklava, but it would not exceed the boldness and daring of this Greek regiment. It was charging three times as many men as themselves, and was under fire of the guns of the Turkish forts at the same time. It is true our guns were firing at the Turkish infantry, but the Efzones were successful, and as night came
170
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
the guns of the forts ceased, but still hear the report of rifles.
Oil
we could
That night a messenger came over to us from the division on our right with the news that the division had advanced another half mile closer to the forts, and had succeeded in driving the Turkish infantry out of the mountains and to their forts, and the messenger also informed us that the Efzones were holding a line of breastworks in front of Benzanie, but was of the opinion the
audacious fellows could not keep their position, as they were under the very muzzles of the Turkish guns, and the rest of our
was lying on the top of the mounbut on the side away from the guns tain,
division
of the enemy. sat there
discussing the situation and wondering what the Efzones were doing, as we knew their position was critical. Finally daylight came, and as soon
all night,
We
as our gunners could get sight of the forts they opened on them with the heaviest fire
we had ever
sent, distracting the attention
of the Turkish forts and giving our high-
UNDER THE
GRIiEK FLAG
171
landers a chance to retire from their fronts, as we knew that Bezanie was protected with a barbed wire trocha, and it would be impossible for our highlanders and our division on the right to get into their forts. The division had done all it could do, in driving
their infantry from the into their fortifications.
mountain side back The Turkish forts
opened on the regiment of brave highlanders as soon as their gunners located them. Their fire was very heavy, and the Ef zones spread out like a fan, and retreated up the mountain as fast as the nature of the ground
would permit,, and, while they were retiring, now and then one of them would pause and
They soon passed over the top of the mountain and out of view of the men and the Turkish forts. I
fire his rifle at
the forts.
learned their losses were not very great. While the fire from the forts was continuing a very amusing incident occurred on our
hill.
The barber
of a
;
company agreed
to
shave one of the men the soldier needed the shave as his beard had several weeks' growth, and, after borrowing some water
172
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
from the company cook, the barber seated his man on a large stone, and had lathered and shaved one-half of the soldier's face, and was starting to finish the other half
near the shop. bombproof, leavhis man with there the ing job only half completed. The troops on the hill yelled to the barber to finish his work, but he could not see it that way, and so that night while sitting at the kitchen tent he told the men around the kitchen the reason why he did not finish the job. He was afraid that his customer would get nervous and he might cut him. The cooks and the loafers around the kitchen faily yelled at this explanation, and every one complimented the barber for his extreme consideration for his patron.
or three shells
fell
when two
That barber rushed
to his
tJNDER
THE
GREfeK FLAG
1?3
CHAPTER XV.
Two Women Come
into Camp Under Fire TO Bring Blankets to Relatives Major
doulous and the orderly taking the Picture of a Telephone Pole Mr. Mat-
souKAs Makes a Speech.
That same afternoon, we saw a sight that About four o'clock, while the fire was at its hottest, we saw two objects coming down the road on the hill to our left. This road was on the hill above the narrow valley that the Turkish forts were raking with their guns. It was almost certain death for any one to come down that road, as it came through the valley and around the side of the mountain for fully a mile and a half, and in plain view of the forts. These objects got closer and closer to us, and to our surprise and terror we discovered they were two women walking along leisurely as if they were going to church, and as if no war was in the land. The shells of the enemy were passing up the valley and along the road by the hunchilled the blood in our veins.
174
AN AMERICAN
and
it
SOLDIEtl
dreds,
killed.
was a miracle they were not
Finally they arrived at the foot of the hill and out of the line of fire. The officers were
words to speak. They soon recovered themselves and questioned these women, and, to our astonishment, they replied that one of them had a son and the other a nephew on our hill, and they had come over through the mountains to bring them some blankets, as they were afraid the boys needed them, as it was cold in the mountains and raining a good deal. We asked them if they did not know that it was almost sure death to come down that
so nervous they could hardly find
mountain.
They replied that they never of the danger, they only thought of thought their boys and their comfort, that they were
very
old,
and
it
really did not

if
make much
killed, as
difference to
them
they were
they did not have many more years to live. We took them to the tents of the kitchen,
and, after feeding them, gave them some coffee and koniak. All the time they were
sitting there they
were talking
to their kins-
TTNDEB
THE GREEK FLAG

soldiers
175
men and
to
several
sitting
and
in-
standing around.
Every one was deeply
terested in them, as they had accomplished the passage of a road that many brave men
would have hesitated before coming down in the face of that awful fire. I have read of the heroism of Joan of Arc and of Moll Pitcher, but nothing could excel the courage or heroism of these two old women of the mountains. They had come from Phillipada to see how their boys were getting along, and how they managed to pass the army was not known, but they had come and were in our midst, and were as happy and as contented as if they were sitting by
All the time they were sitting there the shells were flying over and bursting, but the old women paid no atsafe firesides.
their
own
tention to
them
their only concern
was the
comfort of their boys, and curiosity as to whether any one was hurt, and they remarked if any one was hurt they would be
glad to nurse him.
Any
proud I had a Greek boy
to call either of these
king should be women mother,
to question
them and they
176
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
told the interpreter that they were born and raised in the mountains and were accus-
tomed to tales and scenes of bloodshed. Both of them had lost their husbands and brothers in the troubles of the various wars between rebel bands and their Turkish enemies, and these boys were all they had left, and they were afraid that they were suffering. They knew a big battle was raging in the mountains, as the people living on the roads away from the forts could hear the sounds of the guns, and the more they thought of it the more determined they were to come to their boys. One of them asked an officer if they could not remain and help, that they were willing to do anything, to nurse the sick, cook and make themselves useful generally; but they were told this would be impossible, and sifter they had a long rest and such food as we had, as the sun went down and darkness came they were placed on two mountain mules with a sufficient escort and sent over the mountains to Besta, where they were to be sent to their homes. Every one bade them good-bye and
12;
w w
a-
t.
c.

gave a cheer as they were leaving.
177
As
for myself, I stood there and realized that the women of a nation suffer more by cruel
war than
the
men
in the army.
While the
man
in the army, facing death or disease, the helpless woman is at home with her
is
mind
of
distorted by the fears or the fancy the conditions of the father, son or
all,
brother at the front. After
she bears the
burden of the war.
The incident
self
of these
women
I considered
it-
most remarkable.
thought impressed
:
upon me then, and it was this If women of the nation were indifferent to
shells of the
the the
enemy, no power on earth could keep the Greeks from driving the Turks out of Europe. The commander of the two companies on our hill was Major Doulous, but he did not remain with the companies on the hill. He remained with the other two companies around the hill and a mile and a half from
us and up the
ley.
12
But
leading through the valevery day the old soldier would

hill
178
AiC
AMERICAN SOLDIER
ride
nies,
down
and
the hill to visit his two compahe always came down the mountain
directly in front of the Turkish forts. He made it a rule to come about three o'clock
every afternoon. He was accompanied by a mounted orderly, who would ride several paces in the rear of the major. The major would always take his time coming down
the road, and very often the shells of the forts would be falling on the road, but this
did not seem to disturb him.

slowly down the hill, and at the foot of Fort Bey.
He would
ride
we would meet him
He did this several times, and one afternoon I asked him, ^^Why don't you move a little faster when you come over to us"?"
old fellow took a cigarette out of his pocket, and after lighting it and taking two
The
or three puffs, answered that if he urged his horse out of a walk that he was afraid
he would run into one of the cannon balls. He assumed a more serious air and said he considered it his duty to the men to set them
that example,
and besides he would not give

the
179
Turkish gunners the satisfaction of knowing that he dreaded their fire. His orderly that accompanied him did not have such lofty sentiments, as he remarked to the cooks at the kitchen that he wished the major would move a little faster in coming over the hill. The cooks told him he
ought to be proud of his position in being able to ride around with the major, helping
him command the battalion, and they also told him that his job was very easy, nothing
to
do but assist the officer. When he told Caw-Caw that he would exchange places with him, the crowd at the kitchen laughed,
and
told
him that would not
do,
and Caw-
Caw, the cook, said, "My son, these soldiers would starve to death if I left them, as I am
really the only first-class cook in this army." After a big laugh the orderly retired to his
place with the major, and as they rode over the hill the crowd yelled at the orderly and
told
him
to be sure
and hold the
job, as they
considered
him
the best orderly in the army.
One afternoon Mr. Matsoukas and Mr. Theodoropolos, a member of the Greek par-
180
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
liament,
plane
us,
officer of
and Lieutenant Camberos, the aerothe army, came over to see
and succeeded without any accidents. They came to get a view of the surrounding
especially
Lieutenant Camberos, who was getting ready to make a flight over the forts of Bezanie. And while Lieutenant Camberos was at the top of Fort Bey looking over the surrounding country, Mr. Theodoropolos walked with me to the road at Fort Bey. He had a camera and was taking a picture of a telephone pole hit by a Turkish shell. The pole was about twenty feet to the left of one of the batteries and the shell had struck and broken it in two. While he was taking this picture he asked me, ^^Do you think any shells are likely to come around us while we are here ?'' The forts at the time were firing, but the shells were passing on the sides of the hill a hundred yards to the left. The statesman had hardly finished his question before a
country,
shrapnel burst on the hill close to us. We got out of the way and I was very much concerned as to what my companion
181
would
do.
As he jumped
out of the
way and
turned around, he took off his hat and waved it in the direction of Bezanie and said, ''Good afternoon, Mr. Turk, and thank you for firing so wildly." The troops on the
hill
cheered him.
He was
only a sample of
his countrymen.
All the Greeks seemed to be indifferent to

the enemy.
women,
hurt?''
First their soldiers, next their and now their politicians. I said
to him, '*Are
you not afraid you

^'^N'o,
will get
He
replied,
am
not,
and
if
I were I would be here just the same, because I am a member of the parliament that
favored this war and caused our

at the front
;
men
to be
and
it is
as
much my duty to be
here and sacrifice

is
my
life as theirs.
My life
of no
more value
to the
family than their lives
kingdom and my are to the kingdom
and their families.'' About this time Lieutenant Camberos and Mr. Matsoukas came down the hill and announced to Mr. Theodoropolos that they were ready to go. But as soon as the troops saw Mr. Matsoukas and recognized him, they
182
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
called for a short address.
And
there on
that hillside, with the Turkish shells flying over their heads, this poet of Greece stood
on a boulder and made them a patriotic talk. They cheered to the echo, and as he finished
his remarks, his little party crossed the valley to the mountains with shells exploding
and screaming around them. They reached the side of the mountain in safety, and everyone one the hill waved a farewell.
183
CHAPTEE
XVI.
The Nocturnal Visit of a Feline That Came Near Ending in DisasterA ForPrisoners I Meet a New Acquaintance Who Tells Many Interesting Things.
aging Party Capture
Two
Another incident happened about this time while one of our batteries was located at the foot of a high hill in our rear. Often
the enemy's shells would strike the mountain above the battery, and, bursting, great piles
down to the guns and cause the men to move about lively or else be crushed to death. Numbers of the artilof stones would roll
lerymen were struck very often. One day a very large shell struck the mountain about thirty feet above the guns, and several tons of stones were loosened and rolled toward the battery. The men at the guns ran into a depression under the side
of the hill, except one sergeant, who did not see the stones, as he was busy adjusting the brakes on one of the pieces, saw the
We
184
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
shell when it struck and called to him. He turned in time to see the rocks coming towards him, but he knew that he did not have time to escape by running, so he stood
there coolly
and calmly waiting
till
they
reached him.
of the stones
his feet.
As soon as the biggest part neared him he made a quick
leap into the air and the stones rolled under His quickness and presence of
hill
mind saved him. The troops on the
cheered him repeat-
edly, and numbers of them rushed over and in their enthusiasm hugged and kissed him.
As soon
worked
the
as
the
excitement
subsided
he
his
enemy Whenever
guns faster and faster to show that they did not have the range.
the shells of the
enemy got the
our artillery always fired the faster, and this ruse always deceived the Turks, as their gunners were busy feeling for the range all the time. Still another incident occurred about this time. As I was asleep in one of the shelter tents at the kitchen, I was awakened about
range of
us,
twelve o'clock at night.
I felt as if
my body
o M m >
o
o >
> >
J,
a
1
> J
.
>
> 3
J,
>
1
'
' >
'
> >
, ,, *
n
i
\
ei'
<
185
was paralyzed. When I first awoke I did not know whether I was asleep or dreaming, but I realized that my limbs were numb, and when I became wide awake I glanced at my feet and could see two baleful and gleaming eyes glaring at me. The moon was at its full and everything around was bright as
day, except the dark part of the shelter tent where those green eyes were shining.
My
that I
first
thought was that the Turks had
gained the hill and had either killed or captured my comrades, and I thought the eyes
were those of some Turk glaring at me in murderous contemCold chills passed over me and I plation. was afraid to move. For a few moments I didn 't know what to do. My Colts automatic was in my right coat pocket, into which I slipped my hand quietly and pulled it out,
at
saw
my
feet
moving down the slide of the safety at the same time. While I was extending my arm and taking aim at those eyes and about to pull the trigger, some one came to the kitchen fire close by where I was lying. Just then this terrible thing made a flying leap
186
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
and ran out of the shelter tent. I then discovered it was a cat, but was so nervous I couldn't move for a few minutes. My limbs
were almost dead.
This feline evidently had been lying on for some time. As soon as I recovered I got up and went out to the kitchen fire. Caw- Caw and several of the cooks were
standing around attending the paring the food for breakfast.
fire
me
and preI told them
of the incident, and they lay on the ground and fairly yelled. It was the funniest thing
they ever heard to think the American" was not afraid of cannon balls, but was afraid of a common, everyday house pet.
^*
As soon
as the boys subsided
we com-
menced to discuss that little animal, and all wanted to know where he was and where he came from. Caw-Caw commenced to call him in Greek, but no kitty came. Finally one boy in the crowd called the cat in Turkish,
and, to our surprise, four or five large cats came sneaking up to the kitchen, all of
starved.
them nearly half
We fed them and
afterwards they remained around the camp,
187
We agreed that these cats had come from the

on our right, the same village the Turks had destroyed before they retreated to the forts. Hunger had driven them toward our lines. We were without tobacco, as no one had brought any for several days. The minds of all were occupied with more serious thoughts than tobacco. One night two men volunteered to go to an old abandoned Turkish tobacco field on the plain to get some
village
leaves or stems of the weed, if they could find
any. The fields had been burned by Turks before we reached Fort Bey, and after the
volunteers had been gone for some time, we heard a noise at the foot of the hill, which
proved to be our two men returning with two Turkish prisoners they had captured in the tobacco patch. They were outposts of the Turkish army and had become lost from
their party, and, in
wandering around, they

fort.
stumbled onto our
Our men dragged them to the camp. They were equipped in the regulation Turkish uniform, and our officers questioned them
188
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER One

of
closely.
them
Christians,
and were
told us they were compelled to join the
Turkish army in order to save their lives. The other one said they were Servians. We asked them about the situation of the troops in Fort Bezanie. They claimed our shells were doing a great deal of damage there and
told us the garrison was dissatisfied and wanted to quit, but that their commander, Essad Pasha, had sworn that he would never
surrender the forts as long as a single soldier was alive. They told us the garrison
was
living on very short rations
troops were eating horses our

killed.
shells
and the had
They told us so many things that we put them in charge of a strong guard and sent them to the general at Phillipada. These men had the most evil and disrepuI judged table looking faces I ever saw. they had come to us hoping to locate the
position of our batteries, and then report to their commander, if they could get back.
did not take any stock in their and the guard that carried them statements, to the general was cautioned not to let them
officers
Our
189
escape, as they had seen some of our batteries while in our forts. I knew they never
escaped because I saw them afterwards at Phillipada under guard. One afternoon two of our men brought another prisoner in. He was dressed in the garb of the mountain people and claimed he had been in hiding for several days, and was glad that our people found him. When discovered he was sneaking through the bushes and gullies on our right very suspiciously. He was searched by the officers, and had a handful of Turkish money in his pockets. He claimed that he was not armed, but Captain Cosmopolous, after feeling his
back, found a large, ugly looking knife suspended by a cord also a heavy caliber revol;
ver with every chamber loaded. The captain wasted no time on this fellow, but placed
him under a heavy guard, and that night sent him to the general. At this time I met one of the finest fellows in the country. His name is Peter Paul Skusses. He was a private soldier serving
as a volunteer in
company eleven
of the
fif-
190
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
teenth infantry, and his English was excelHe gave me a great deal of informalent. tion about the army and the Turkish people.
He had
istics.
lived in Constantinople for a short while and knew their habits and character-
could also speak the Turkish language well. I asked him about the Turkish navy and if he knew anything of the admiral
of that navy.
He
He
said, ^^Yes, I
met him
in
Constantinople, and called at his home to see his daughter." I asked him the nationality of the admiral,
and he told me the man was a Scotchman. I was very glad to get this news, as I had been told by several Greeks that the admiral was an American
ex-naval
officer.
Mr. Skusses told me of the fight at Besta. Besta was a small place a few miles away, and was now occupied as the headquarters of the fifteenth regiment. But before our people occupied it, it was held by the Turkish army, who, after a hard fight, were
driven out by the Greeks,
who captured
it
and several pieces of heavy
field artillery.
He
described a night attack of the Turks,
UNDER THE GREEK ELAG
l9l
and said they were first filled with whiskey by their officers and then told by the priests that if they were killed in the fight every man would go to heaven, and each man, after arriving there, would have all the rice he could eat and a harem of fifty or more women. He got these statements from numbers of prisoners the Greeks captured.
morning after the night found an officer whose shoulder attack, they straps showed the rank of a colonel, lying on the field quite dead and in searching his pockets to learn his identity, they found a note that stated he was a German and if perchance he was killed, his last wish was to be buried with his hands above the ground, for he did not wish to lie in the same grave with a Turk. Mr. Skusses and I discussed this incident at some length and
;
He
said that one
agreed that
of the
if this
man
accepted the
money
Turks he was no better than thev. If he was a Christian he had no right to help
this nation against
Christian civilization.
I have everv confidence in the statements
of Mr. Skusses, as he
and
his family stand
192
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
high in the kingdom.
His father is one of the leading men of Athens and the president Mr. of the Athens and Patras railway. Skusses was serving as a plain, private soldier, and I have no doubt that with the influence and prestige of his family he could have been much higher than* a private soldier, which shows the patriotism of the Greek, who believes rank and power of secondary importance. I had many pleasant conversations with Mr. Skusses, and we agreed that as soon as the war ended we would see more of each other.
193
CHAPTER
Lieut.
XVII.
Camberos Makes a Flight Over Bezanie One of Our Shots Blows Up a Magazine Â Large Body of Infantry Sent INTO the Plains Under Cover OF Darkness The Turks Cannot Locate Our Guns Bravery of Greek Of-
ficers
Under Fire
Men Become Lousy.
forts were still roartheir iron shells, but our and throwing ing troops on the right were resting on their laurels. They had driven the infantry of
Our batteries and the
the
enemy
mountain
forts.
into his fortifications, but their batteries were still shelling the
Our
division on the left
was
firing
steadily, as were their mountain batteries, and that division succeeded in driving the
Turks from the mountain sides to the forts. About this time we heard a noise in the air; at this particular time our guns were firing slowly, as our cannoneers were nearly exhausted, and hearing the noise, we looked up, and coming over our fort from the direc13
194
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
tion of Phillipada
was an aeroplane.
It
was
by and Bezanie stopped their fire. We knew it was Camberos. He was at least a mile high and was coming like the wind, and by the time
our
man
common
Lieutenant Camberos. consent, every gun on our
As
if
hill
we reached
fellow
the top of Port Bey, the bold
was making a circuit over Fort Bezanie, and we were satisfied those troops from Asia were wonderstruck, if not terrified, at
the sight.
Lieutenant Camberos was making this flight to gain information for our general, and after circling over Bezanie three times
and dropping a few shells into their midst, he sailed away to make his report to the general at Phillipada.
As he
started on his re-
trip, the guns of the forts were firing at him, but to no purpose. The bold fellow
turn
came over our hill again and the troops cheered time and again. It pleased us because he waved the blue and white flag of
kingdom to us as he sailed away. As soon as Camberos passed, the guns of the Krupp battery opened on the forts, and the
the
TINDER
THE GREEK FLAG
195
heard reshot struck a magazine. port after report from the forts, and looking over at them saw great piles of stone, timfirst
We
bers and other debris hurled high into the Now and then great tongues of fire air.
would
rise
from Bezanie. The Turkish guns

;
ceased, as did ours. Every one was watching the explosion the destruction must have
been enormous.
We thought the
Turks had
blown up their magazines or thought maybe shells from the Krupp battery had fired one
of them, blowing up by contact the others, and that the Turkish army was retreating
to Janina.
We
them
true.
lay there all the afternoon watching and hoping that our suspicions were
That night the general sent several regiments of infantry out on the plain, where they lay all night. Every man was
cautioned to be as
still
as a mouse.
N"o talk-
ing and smoking were allowed, and the army was prepared for anything that should
happen.
After the army covered the plain in front of the enemy, patrols were sent forward, and they returned with the news that
196
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
still
the Turks were
in the forts, and, in ad-
dition to that, they had large bodies of infantry on the plain. But the Greek commander was too shrewd for them. If he had
moved
his troops across that plain and up to their forts, few if any of his men could
;
have returned alive and before the sun rose, the army on the plain was quietly moved back into the hills before the Turkish gunners could see them. As it was, our outpost
or guard was slow in returning to us before daylight, and they had a sharp fight with
the outposts of the enemy. were in a peculiar condition. Our infantry had driven them to their forts, and
We
the division on the right and on the left was waiting for the enemy to come out and give
and here the army remained, except the guns of the forts. The Turkish gunners had been feeling for days, trying to locate our artillery. Most of their shells were being fired up the valleys to our right and
battle
;
Finally he happend to locate the Krupp battery, and for hours threw his
left.
shells at
it.
We
were standing on the
hill

watching Krupps.
197
Ms
shells as they fell close to the
also getting his range down fine, as his shells were tearing the road to pieces
He was
in front of the guns and forcing a regiment of infantry that was standing there to move back two hundred yards, as the regiment
was acting as a support for the guns, but was concealed from the enemy by a mountain spur. Numbers of the shells exploded above the guns and the men had to move lively to
keep out of the way of the falling rocks but Dighenis worked his guns faster, and finally the Turk changed his fire from the battery to our hillside again. He had the range and did not know it, and as soon as he moved his range to our hillside he concentrated the guns of his forts close to our battery on the right side of our hill. About two hundred feet from the side of the hill was an old stone house that had been a public house or toll-gate before the war, and as usual the Turks had burnt the
;
interior of
was
left
before he retired, and all that standing were the thick stone walls
it
198
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
and other debris. It suddenly dawned upon the Turkish gunners that our battery was in or behind this old stone building, and for two hours he pounded that pile of stone to his heart's content. All the time we were looking on and laughing at such a foolish and useless waste of ammunition. While he was bombarding this old house, our guns were firing at him, but finally he got the range of our battery on the right and our men were compelled to retire, bringing the guns with them. Turkish shells commenced to drop on our hillsides and were falling as thick as hail, and we were losing some men and numbers of horses and mules. When a horse or mule was struck by a shell or stone and was not killed outright, some one would humanely end the poor animal's existence by shooting it in the forehead. It was painful to me to see the dumb creatures wounded and suffering. When any horse or mule would be killed outright, the animal would be dragged by the men at night up the mountain sides and was thrown into a large hole
or crevasse in the ground.
199
any of the men, the nearest man to him would careand tenderly lay him on the fully ground, always giving him some water with a little koniak mixed in it. The officers would pass from one group to another, speaking words of cheer and encouragement to the men. This was done to keep up the spirits of all. It was entirely unnecessary, as the men on this hill were descended from the old heroes of
strike
'
When a
shell or stone
would
Greece. Nothing could frighten them. Their courage was of the highest order. They
fought because their cause was just. They fought in the same way they did business cool, calm and collected. The Turk in front knew that he had to annihilate the Greek; he also knew that as long as one Greek remained on that hill the fight would continue.
The courage and

these
indifference to death of
astonished me, and I thought while looking at them of what I had read of them before I came to their country. I
men
do not recall whx) wrote it, but it is something like this, '*To be brave was to be
200
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
Greek;" and not to fight when his people and his country were desecrated and outraged by the Turks would be regarded as a stigma on himself and his family forever. The fire of the forts still continued and I saw numbers of the men remove their coats, shirts and undershirts and then industriously engage in picking the little vermin from their bodies. The army had been under the fire of the forts so long, and water so very No difficult to get, the men became lousy. man could remove his clothes or shoes, as he never knew at what moment he would be called on to repel an attack of the infantry of the enemy. The men were so annoyed by these pests that they would pick them from
their bodies at every opportunity.
The nights were very cold, and at two o'clock in the morning a heavy dew would
fall,
which penetrated the clothing like rain, chilling one to the bone and making sleep very difficult. Often in the daytime I could see numbers of the men sitting around on the hill sound asleep, even though the guns were making explosions enough to shake the

hill
201
but nature asserted
itself
would sit around and sleep. bombardment from Port Bey the men fared fairly well in rations. Before daylight every morning two men of each company would take two of the little mountain mules and climb the mountains to the commissary depot of the army, fifteen miles away. They would return that night with provisions on the backs of the little animals.
and the boys During the
202
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
CHAPTER XVIII
We
Have a Booster Dinner I Rush to Aid of Wounded Boy Hit by Shell^ and Am Struck by Piece of Stone on Head Return to Besta.
One day
the captain of
company eleven
and I to have dinner with him, and notified us to be on hand promptly at one o'clock. When we got there the captain had a tough boiled rooster for us. We devoured that fowl, and I en> joyed it more than any dinner I ever had at the best hotels. After eating the rooster the captain gave us a handful of currants for dessert. We asked the captain where he got the fowl, but he only laughed and said, **You ate him, you enjoyed him; why bother me with foolish questions?'' And as he
invited Captain Cassone
passed his cigarette case, the shells of the enemy kept getting closer and closer to the dinner table, which was a large, flat rock, and that little party broke up amidst the thanks of the guests and Turkish shells, but
203
no one was struck, except one of the waiters, who was hit by a small piece of flying stone, and he did not care, as he was consoled with the remnants of that chicken. I have attended many dinner parties and numerous banquets, but no food tasted like the captain's rooster. Every day I asked the captain where he got the rooster, but he would ** Never you mind, you got your only say,
part of the fowl."
were amused at some of the reports of how the Turkish commander was giving his soldiers encouragement to fight, and stimulating them generally. We were told by numbers of Turkish prisoners that their commander and his officers had told them our army was the only one left and that Prince Constantine, the commander-in-chief of the Greek army, was a prisoner, and that the Turkish army was in Athens, and the enemies around Adrianople had been defeated and were retreating to Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria. We were satisfied his troops were being bolstered up, as they were
We
making a desperate
resistance.
204
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
The next morning the fire of the forts opened stronger and fiercer than at any time during the bombardment, and while I was standing at the kitchen tent talking to CawCaw, several shells fell on our hill among the men and horses, doing considerable damage. It was drizzling rain at the time, and while standing there I heard one of the boys cry, **0h." I rushed to him and caught him as he was falling. His hands were clutching I knew he was seriously at his stomach. wounded and caught him as quickly as I could and took my cape and placed it under his head and kneeled by his side, holding his hands at the same time. I called to a soldier of the Red Cross to come and assist me. After the boy rushed up the hill to us he took out his knife and cut the clothing from the wounded soldier's body, as the shells were falling by the hundreds on the hill. After the clothes were cut away we found a piece of shrapnel weighing three or
four ounces against his stomach. As I picked it up it was so hot I had to drop it, and while attending him another shell struck

close to US,
205
knocking all down. A large piece of stone struck by the shell hit me on the head, and the next thing I remember Captain Cosmopolous was pulling us out of the
As the shell burst it almost buried us under a mass of stones and earth. I
debris.
knew that I was all right, and I raised my arm to the men on the hillside as a signal that I was not killed. As soon as I cleared
the dirt
up, but
and powder out of

felt
my
eyes, I stood
groggy, and every one close to me rushed over to shake hands and embrace me. I had one regret about this
a
little
shot.
It killed one of
little
This
our company's mules. brute was the pet of the men.
The same shell killed three artillery horses and wounded several men from flying stones, but, fortunately, no one was killed. The shock and concussion deafened me, and I lost track of the events of that day. That night our batteries were silently moved
over to the road to our left out of range of the enemy, but ready to be placed in a more
favorable position.
their
work
well;
The batteries had done they had successfully en-
206
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
our infantry support while they were driving the enemy to Bezanie out I remained by the of the moimtains.
gaged the
divisions
forts, thus giving
invaluable
kitchen
fire
all
that
night
nursing
my
head until the next morning, when Captain Cassone and I were sent to the
headquarters
of
the
regiment at
that
Besta.
When
leave
the
men
learned
was
to
them they were very sorry, because we had been together during the siege, and
friendships were made that will last as long as life. They embraced me repeatedly, and hoped we would be together again.
The
battalion did not
know where it was to
be sent, as the batteries they had been supporting had been moved, and of course it would have been f oUv for the battalion to
/
I required immediate medical attention, and as it looked like a steady and settled siege of some weeks,
remain on the
hill alone.
it
was my duty to report to the general of the Greek army and be sent by him to join Genreal Garibaldi, my commander, as I was a member of the Garibaldi legion. The bat-
rNDER THE GBEEK FLAG

talion left the hill
207
and joined the
batteries
on the mountain road on our left. Captain Cassone and I, accompanied by an escort, reported to the headquarters of the fifteenth regiment. As soon as we reached the headquarters at Besta we were sent over the mountains to the road that led to Phillipada. Captain Cassone had been struck by a flying stone on the knee and was suffering
intensely.
208
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
CHAPTER XIX.
Desperation of the Turks Bezanie a Second Gibraltar An Emotional Parting
WITH
OF
ComradesMeets Great
Number
Wounded and Sick on Way.
The men on Port Bey had shown much courage. They had remained under the fire of those forts for days and days. The mountains were covered with snow and ice, the best defenders the Turks had. The mountains were almost inaccessible and the plain in front was so exposed that flesh and blood could not cross it and live. The Greek soldiers who had fought in these battles
were volunteers of sixty days' service at the longest, but they were fighting for the honor and glory of the kingdom and to free the Greeks of Epirus from the cruel yoke of their oppressors, and to redress the
burning
wrongs
Bezanie
of
five
centuries.
to
The
con-
Turk
tinue
in
was
of
and
perpetuate
fighting his control,
or
the
rather
miscontrol,
Epirus,
and
209
Turkish soldier, true to the teachings of Al Koran, was fighting for the promises the Koran gave, and quoting from it about immortal bliss to the faithful soldier who should fall in battle," the substance of which was, ^^more rice and harems."
^
The fifty-sixth chapter of the Koran says **When that inevitable Day of Judgment
:
suddenly come, no soul shall charge the prediction of its coming with falsehood. Then the earth shall be shaken with a violent shock; and the mountains shall be dashed in pieces, and shall become as dust scattered abroad and the men shall be separated into three distinct classes; the comshall
;
panions of the
right hand (how happy shall the companions of the right hand be !) and the companions of the left hand (how
miserable shall the companions of the left hand be!) and those who have been pre-
eminent in the faith of Islam.

are they
These
last
approach nearest unto God, and shall dwell in the gardens of delight. They shall repose on couches adorned
shall
who
with gold and precious stones, and shall

14
sit
210
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
opposite to each other's face. Youths who shall continue in their bloom forever shall go
round about to attend them with goblets, and beakers and a cup of flowing wine. Their heads shall not ache for drinking it, neither shall their reason be disturbed, and with fruits of the sorts which they shall choose and with the flesh of birds of the kind which they shall be fed. And there shall accompany them fair damsels having great black eyes resembling pearls that are hidden in
;
their shells; for the ivork
wrought. vain discourse, or wrangling, or charge of sin, but only the salutation of peace; and
and these shall be the reward which the righteous shall have They shall not hear therein any
the companions of the right hand (how happy shall the companions of the right hand
be !) shall have their abode among lotus trees that are free from thorns, and trees of Mauz laden regularly with their produce from top
to bottom;
under an exhalted shade, near a flowing water and amidst abundant fruits, which shall be gathered. But the companions of the left hand (how miserable shall
TINDER
THE GREEK FLAG
211
the companions of the left hand be!) shall dwell amidst burning winds, and scalding water, under the shade of a black smoke
neither cool nor agreeable and they shall eat of the fruit of Al Zakum, and they shall
;
fill
their bodies like to burst
and
shall drink
This boiling water, like a thirsty camel. forsooth shall be their entertainment on the
Day
ises
of Judgment, assuredly." of their
Their sensuous imagination and the prom-
Koran
inspire the
Turk
to
demon. In his veins flows a strain of blood handed down to him through the centuries of savagery of the East. And
fight like a
the imprecations of the Koran for failure to obey its teachings are terrible. The immi-
nent peril of the Day of Judgment is depicted by the threatened retribution that is held over the followers of Islam, and is the most powerful motive for his unquestioned obedience. These fanatical soldiers, firmly
believing the teachings of the Koraii, become a foe that fights with the knowledge of success even
of the
though his life is lost. The masses Turks are ignorant and illiterate, and
212
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
up to the highest pitch by their and encouraged by their officers in
are wrought
priests
the ^^Holy War" their Sultan has declared These men fight with against the Balkans.
a desperation that has made them famous. They know they will probably be beaten and compelled to surrender, but their religion holds them in its power, and it is mightier than death.
The Greek army had them surrounded and there could be no escape. Every hill and mountain side were occupied by the Greeks. The Turks in Bezanie had little hope of receiving reinforcements, as the Greek army held all Epirus. But the Turk in Bezanie was waiting and hoping to draw the enemy onto the plain in his front, where he could inflict great damage on him from his big
guns before the inevitable surrender, but the commander of the Greek army was too wise to sacrifice lives in vain. His plans were not quite ready for the final assault he would make on the Turk. The Greek commander held the position his divisions were occupying and was maintaining it and waiting and
213
hoping that the Turkish infantry would come out of their Gibraltar. Port Bezanie was like a Gibraltar, and when I afterwards
passed through the straits of the same
name
and saw that famous British stronghold, it seemed no more impregnable that the Turkish forts.
After crossing the mountains we reached the road that led to Phillapada, and our
William Christohad been with me and as we were continuously, placed in the machine that was to take us to Phillipada, he was inconsolable, but after more handshakes and embraces, the machine started. The car was an ambulance and had eleven
escort told us good-bye. pher, one of the escorts,
wounded men in it exclusive of the chauffeur and his assistant. Captain Cassone was
placed in a hanging stretcher in the car, as his knee was causing him intense pain. I took a seat in front with the driver. We
commenced to overtake hundreds and hundreds of wounded men, and I could see the losses we had sustained. The road was crowded with horse and auto ambulances,
214
AN
AlVIERICAN SOLDIER
wagons, buggies, carts and every kind of vehicle that could be used, all crowded with sick and wounded men. There were numbers of horses and mules with wounded men on their backs. The casualties ran into
thousands.
I was prepared for this, as the defense was obstinate and the Turks fought
with their accustomed bravery. Our men had charged the forts and the infantry repeatedly in the face of the fire of the Turks and their infantry on the mountain tops. These wounded men only showed the desperate valor of the Greeks. No power on earth could have escaped the consequences, and we were fortunate that our losses were no more than they were. Numbers of the men were sick from exposure to the snows and cold rains, that fell on the mountains frequently. The vehicles would have to stop
often to give rest to the
jolting
and
to give
raging thirst. been organized along the route to care for

the most serious cases, and often some of the vehicles would leave a few men at these im-
wounded from the them water to slake their Numerous field hospitals had
215
were continuously provised hospitals. passing fresh bodies of troops and artillery hurrying on to complete the siege of Bezanie.
This artillery was to be used if the general could find places to put it. After a long and painful ride, which was necessarily slow, as our wounded were suffering intenseThe brave felly, we reached Phillapada. lows never complained, each one in the car
We
making light of his wounds and trying cheer and encourage the other.
to
216
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
In the
Out of LegionHospitals Are Full of WoundedAn Army of RefugeesAn-
CHAPTER XX. HospitalWe Learn
of Muster
other Benedict Arnold.

arrived at Phillipada Captain Cassone and I were sent to the Italian Red Cross hospitals to receive medical attention.
When we
We were given warm and clean beds to sleep

in,
the
first
we had
seen for some time.
The
of the hospitals were the most experienced surgeons of Italy, and all of them
officers
had seen service as army surgeons in the Italian army in Tripoli, where Turkey and Italy had been fighting. We considered ourselves very fortunate to be in such experi-
enced and skillful hands. They gave us every attention, and in a few days we were so
well that
we
left the hospital to
general's office, that we were to be sent to Athens to receive
report to the where a staff officer told us
our discharges, as the legion was to be mustered out of the service, especially the few that survived the battle of Drisko.
217
This was the first news I had of the legion and I have never since been able to get any information about the fight at Drisko. While waiting for transportation to Prevesa, I
spent the time looking at the sights and scenes around Phillipada, and there were
many.
There were numbers of Red Cross
hospitals of the various societies of Europe, among which were the Italians and Swiss.
The Swiss hospital was the most modern any in the town. They had large corps of surgeons and nurses. Their tents were modeled after houses. The general had given them a large residence for their operating rooms, and the society had installed an electric lighting plant in the house, and as it was wêll lighted, the surgeons worked day an(^ night. The operations in the hospitals were becoming more and more frequent, and whenever I heard of them I would always wonder what the loved ones at home would say when the soldier returned with an empty sleeve. When he left his home he was and strong vigorous in his manhood he returns crippled and wounded. The people
of
;
218
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
who do not go
and and His loved ones are the ones
to war, but read of the pomiJ glory, do not fully realize the hardships miseries of the men that have been shot.
to learn the
truth, but the vast majority of people do not. They see only victory or defeat. Many soldiers return home lame, deaf and blind, their bodies worn out and wasted from dis-
eases or exposure to the snows winds of the bleak mountains.
and cold
Some
of
them never come back, but are placed on a stretcher and carried to the side of some lonely hill, with only a few friends to bid them farewell, with a salute from the firing party of the army. The bugle sounds taps, the soldier's last farewell, and his comrades return to their duties and say another good fellow has gone, while the people at home
wait for his return in vain. Tears are shed, hearts are broken, and the world moves on. Only a soldier was he, a defender of the kingdom, but history will say he was a soldier of Greece and did his duty.
saw many sick and wounded which proved to me the valor and
I
soldiers,
fighting

qualities of the Greek. divisions of the army
219
It showed that the around Bezanie had
met with determined
nature of the ground forts had been of inestimable value to the Turks in his defense. I saw our infantry
drive the Turks to their forts, and in looking at the causes of the wounds our men had
received I could see that most of them were caused by bursting shrapnel or splinters of
stones.
resistance, but that the in front of the Turkish
The Turkish
artillery
in
Bezanie was
heavier that the Greek. I measured numbers of Turkish shells that had not exploded
and found they were five and one-half inches in diameter. The Greek shells measured only three and one-half inches in diameter. But the old style battery of Krupps of the Dighenis battery measured four and oneeighth inches in diameter, but even with this difference in the size of the artillery, the Snyder guns of the Greek army were vastly
superior to the enemy, because they could be fired much faster than the Krupps of the Turks. The nature of the mountains would
220
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
not permit heavier guns to be brought to

bear.
hospitals at Phillapada were many, as every available building, residence and storehouse had been converted into homes for the
The
sick.
I met the nurses of the hospitals,
who
were both Greek and foreign.

ladies of fine families.
They were
of the
The members
Red Cross were good women
of the various
countries of Europe, and all were giving their time, day and night, to the care of the
and wounded. Each woman wore a white cap and a neat apron. They did not get much sleep, as ambulances were arriving in the town at all hours with wounded. They would attend them and put them to bed, when another machine would arrive with more wounded. Daily men on stretchers would be brought down the stairways of the hospitals and placed in the wagons or ambulances, to be sent on to Prevesa or Arta, where they would be placed on ships and dissick
tributed through the various hospitals of the kingdom or sent to their homes and
families.
Many times I
have heard the poor
221
fellows singing their patriotic songs, though sick and wounded. Nothing daunted them,
was as keen as ever. Phillipada was crowded with refugees from the mountains, and the stories they told would appall the civilized world if they could have heard them. Misery, no food and no clothing to keep them warm and dry. All was lost, and the smiles had left their faces for all time. The faces of the little children had lost their youth and freshness. Hunger had caused the roses to fade. As I looked as these unfortunate people I felt it would
their ardor
and
be a blessing to Greece if the statesmen who control the affairs of Europe could see them as I did. If they could, all their armies
would be assisting Greece in driving the
Turk out
at the point of the bayonet.
It
would only be simple justice for these oppressed and downtrodden victims of the cruelty of these Asiatic savages. There were little boys and girls of tender age and helpmothers' arms. I thought while looking at them that a government so degenerate and degraded as Turkey has no
less babies in their
222
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
Christian Europe does right to exist. not take hold of the situation, I can't understand. They must know it. All Europe had
at Phillipada, and I am blind. not were sure they They could not keep from seeing these helpless people. They were everywhere and seemed to see most everything else. It is true their duties were to watch the army, but civilization and humanity would be compelled to notice their
Why
their
army experts
reports. The powers pretend to be Christian nations, and now is the time to show it.
They should aid the Balkans, and they will accomplish what Christian Europe should have done centuries ago. Humanity and decency demand the highest altruism of European
politicians.
The refugees were so anxious to make a penny that the old men and women would
walk miles into the mountains to get pieces of brush and limbs of trees, which they would bring to town on their backs and sell for fuel, which was very scarce. After the long and toilsome trip they were worn out and exhausted. I investigated their homes
223
and was shocked to see how they lived. They were huts made of sticks and straw, and the cold winds of the mountains penetrated them like water through a sifter. Every morning the little children would run up and' down the hillsides to keep warm. Such fuel
as they collected they usually sold for neces-
They had lost everything they possessed. The Turkish army while retreating to the forts in Bezanie had burned their houses and had devastated their fields and took their flocks and herds into their forts. They conducted this sort of warfare, as has been their custom in Asia from the beginning of their government. These people had
sities.
been living in these mountains for generations, and were Greeks, as were their ancestors who owned the land before the Turks came. The army was giving them every assistance, and they were being fed by the commissary department. In addition to that the soldiers were dividing their rations with them. There were numbers of foreign officers at Phillipada, where most of the European
224
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
governments had their representatives or attaches on hand. England, France, Germany, Austria, Italy, and some others were represented. The Greek commander would
not permit any of the attaches closer to the army than Phillapada, and subsequent events showed the wisdom of his policy. He knew that complications could arise with
other governments in Europe, as some of them had greedy eyes on the Balkans, and
the Albanian question
was
alive.
One day an
officer
asked
me
to give
him
some money, as he was entirely out of funds, but remarked to me at the same time that he would have plenty of money as soon as he reached Athens. I was surprised to hear
him make
the latter remark, because he was.
always notoriously impecunious. The same day I saw another officer give him some papers, which he cautiously placed in his bosom, fastening his shirt over them. I told him he was making a serious mistake and that he should not do what I suspected he was attempting. Answering me sharply, he said, ^Î told you I would have plenty of
225
I left him abruptly and reported his conduct and my suspicions to one of the general's staff officers. I considered it my duty, as I was wear-
money when I reached
Athens.''
ing the uniform of the kingdom and

the location of their batteries
tion of the
knew
and the posiI deBezanie. around army Nearly every spised a spy and traitor. American has read the history of Benedict Arnold, and it is born in him to abhor such treachery. This man was not an attache, but he received these papers from an attache of very high rank, and the only reason I do not mention the nationality of the man is
that his country has been friendly to the Greek government. I hope this officer was
not permitted to leave Phillipada, which I do not believe he did, for I never saw him
afterwards.
am
His fate is immaterial, and I sure he was not successful in his intenbetraying information to the Otto-
tions* of
man
government.
16
226
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
CHAPTER XXI.
Return to Athens Call on Mr. SchurMAN^ American Minister Gets a Good Sleep Meets Mr. Marcopulous Every Ship Bringing in Volunteers from All Over the World Visits King's Palace.
One evening I was
told
by a
staff officer
make room
to be ready to go to Prevesa, as he vôuld in an ambulance for me, but be-
fore I took the car I gave

to the officer that I
my word of honor would forget what I had seen of the army until Bezanie was taken. The car came to the hospital, and after bidding
all
good-bye,
started
for
Prevesa.
From Phillipada to the port I saw the roads crowded with sick and wounded men who were being sent to Athens, Patras, and other
places in the kingdom. After a slow and cold ride, I reached Prevesa. I hardly knew the town. The govern-
ment had been in charge only a few weeks, but they had revolutionized the place. The streets were clean and the houses looked like
227
new
buildings. Every one had. a Greek flag flying from the roofs or out of the windows.
I presented the general's order to the prefect, who told me to give it to the captain
of the port,
who would
see that a ship took
Pireaus as soon as one left. The next morning the little steamer Hydra was ready
to
me
and after bidding my friends in Prevesa good-bye, she steamed out of the harbor on her way to Pireaus down the Ionian Sea, by Patras, through the Gulf of Corinth and through the canal of Corinth to
to leave,
the harbor of Pireaus.
When
she reached
the docks, I took my baggage to the depot and boarded the electric train for Athens.
As soon as I reached the city, I went to my old quarters, the Grand Hotel Olympic. The
proprietor of the hotel did not know me. When I was his guest weeks before I was a
strong, healthy looking fellow in a bright
new uniform, and my face was clean shaven. But now my uniform was soiled and dirty, my shoes and leggins were worn out, and I was forty pounds lighter. I made myself known to his servants, who took my sword
228
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
to the
and baggage
same room I formerly occupied. It was the first room I had been in for weeks. I had been sleeping on rocks and in the rain so long I appreciated the
change.
After depositing my baggage, I went to a bath house and took a hot Turkish bath and
changed my clothing. The clothes I had been wearing were burnt because they were I donned my citizen's filled with vermin. clothes and was an American once more.
Properly dressed, I took a carriage and called on the American minister, Mr. Schurman. He did not know me. But, after reminding him, he was shocked at my changed
appearance. I told him that I was all right, only a little deaf. He was anxious to know about the campaign and I gave him the general news. When I told him that the Greek soldier of today is a worthy example of the old heroes of Greece, he was delighted, and
expressed himself as being glad that I returned safely. After spending a few hours with him, I returned to the hotel and had
a long
rest.

That evening I called at
229
my
usual loafing
place, the Pan-Hellenic Cafe, on University street. Before leaving the hotel I met one
of the engineer officers for the government, Mr. Basil Marcopulous, who was as kind and
attentive to
me
as one
another.
He went
with
man could be to me to the Pan-Helre-
lenic Cafe.
After sitting down to some

discussed
the
freshments, we
army and
America, and I was pleased to learn that he
had spent several years in Chicago. We became good friends and inseparable companions. And such knowledge I may have of
the ancient glories of the ruins of Greece I owe to him. In the days that I spent in
Athens he took time and pains
to
show me
everything of interest in the city. Mr. Marcopulous has a superior education and is one
of the best informed
men in Greece.
We saw
the grand churches of Athens, also the old church of St. Theodore, more than a thou-
sand years old. This church is being used and is in good condition. He showed me the church of St. George, which stands on the highest hill in Athens. We saw nearly every-
230
AN AMEKICAN
SOLDIER
thing in the port of Pireaus and at Phaleron.
Phaleron I saw large numbers of These men were prisoners in name only. The government had them quartered in the finest hotel there, where they were being treated like guests. Most of the oiBcers had discarded their uniforms and were dressed in citizens' clothes, and numbers of them were walking along the water front thoroughly enjoying themselves. Each was wearing a flower on his coat and had a cane in his hand. They appeared like
While
at
Turkish
ofl&cers.
a picnic party. I compared their condition with the poor mountain people of Epirus.
The comparison was odious. The Greek government showed them every courtesy. Their people showed the mountain folk every indignity. I was told they were receiving their salaries from the Greek government, and each officer was being paid the same salary he would have received from Turkey, and that the Greek government did this to make them comfortable and to show them that she was a generous captor, presuming, of course,

that
231
Turkey would reimburse her when the war ended. These men should appreciate this consideration, and when they get back
to their country they should tell their people that Greece is a magnanimous country. It
would be far better for the Turks for Greece to control Constantinople than for them to do so, and they should tell their people that Greece is a modern and progressive nation that would make Constantinople great.
While
forded
at Phaleron I
saw a
sight that afis
me some amusement. Phaleron
summer resort patterned after our own. It has a beautiful beach and good bathing houses also a large amusement park. I was amused at seeing over the main entrance of the place in large letters in English a sign which read, ^^Luna Park,'' where were the usual attractions. After leaving Phaleron we called at the military hospitals in
;
Pireaus.
school of
They were good ones. The high the town had been fitted up with
light and airy rooms. several hundred sick
In the hospital were and wounded men. Numbers of them were convalescing and sit-
232
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
ting around talking to each other. All had the dainties and delicacies that money could buy.
into one of the large wards, the surgeon accompanying us called out, ^*Is there any here from America?" and a dozen
As I walked
voices answered, *'Yes."
I talked to the
boys and they were delighted. After learning the causes of their wounds, I found that shrapnel shells and stones had got the best of them. All of them were enthusiastic about the war, and expected to return to the front as soon as they were discharged from
the hospital. As at Phillipada, most of the nurses were the good women of Greece.
We returned to Athens and saw the sights.

were crowded with people, as that came to the ports was bringevery ship ing them in from all quarters of the globe in crowds, and as soon as a Greek would get to
streets
The
the
kingdom he would see his family and friends and then report to the army for duty. The government would equip him. Then it was drill, all day long. The barracks were crowded with men and all the vacant land around the city was used for drill and parade
233
ground for the volunteers. While standing on the Acropolis, the whole country seemed filled with soldiers drilling. I could see them
training in front of the Temples of Jupiter and Theseus and around the Arch of
Athens was an armed camp the hotels and coffee houses were crowded with soldiers, day and night. Whenever I would return to my hotel, volunteers would be there in crowds to meet me, especially the volunteers from America and whenever I would walk along the streets some soldier would rush up to me and throw his arms around me and tell me, I am glad you came back safe. He would generally be some Greek that I had met while in the kingdom or in the vessel that had come from America. We would always compare notes, and the volunteer would want to know of the enemy. I would satisfy his curiosity, and it only made him more
Hadrian.
;
;
^ *
' '
ambitious to go to the front. The Palace band could be seen daily leading through the streets a regiment that was
leaving for the front.
As soon
as the
band
would escort them
to the trains to take the
234
j
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
would return to lead another next Standing on the sidewalk, I watched
ships, it
day. the soldiers pass, dressed in their uniforms, with bright and shining buttons. The sight always made me feel sad, because I had seen
around the forts so many of the troops who

never returned.
And when
of
I looked at these
boys and most
them were boys the thought would strike me, ^^How many sad and sorrowing homes will be in the land when death and disease overcome you? But war has no mercy, and you bright and cheerful fellows must be another tribute to the The glory and honor of your historic land. regiments would swing by at a quick step, crowds cheering and soldiers calling out ** good-bye'' to their friends. While in Athens Mr. Marcopulous and I spent some time
' '
in the king's palace.
It is a large, plain, three-story building, with soldiers on guard at the gates. They were picked men of the
or highland regiments, and each one wore his beautiful uniform of long blue coat
Efzones
and
white stockings and red shoes. Opposite the palace stands the house of
skirt,
235
Prince Constantine. Guards of soldiers stood
were dressed in the regulation uniform of the army. This was a splenThe king was clinging to the did sight. fashions of the past, the son adopting the style of the present. In the streets of Athens were large bands of Cretans hastening to
at his gates, but
fight.
black style
Each man was dressed

caps,
in his native
blue coats and zouave
trousers, blue sashes filled with long knives, and revolvers. Each looked a warrior. Min-
gling in the crowds were Efzones that
had
not joined their regiments, infantrymen, cavalrymen, and artillerymen by the thousands. Now and then some of the women of Greece
would
and I noticed the way they conducted themselves on the streets, walking
pass,
quietly along, and, as a rule, with eyes toward the ground. They were not bold and
brazen women like some that I have seen in our American cities. They were modest and dignified. While in the city I never saw any signs of flirtations. Their conduct was good, and they would be models for some of our
women. Some of the Greek women are very
236
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
beautiful, with black hair, dark eyes, rosy cheeks, and above all, that native modesty
and quiet reserve that every man admires.
237
CHAPTER
Visits
XXII.
the Arsenal Salonica Glad to Be EiD OF Turkish Rule Visits Military Academy How the Men Got Past the
Provost Guards.
crowds of people it carried my mind back to the time when Athens was the Paris of the ancient world, and the sight of all the Greeks that were in the streets showed me that if the people of Greece would not emigrate to other counOne tries, Athens would again be a Paris. day we went to the Arsenal, and while there I saw enormous quantities of arms and artillery that Prince Constantine had captured from the Turks at Salonica. There were one hundred and forty pieces of modern Krupp guns, seventy-five thousand Mauser rifles, dozens of battery wagons and hundreds of caissons also two large electric light plants on wheels, great stores of clothing, and
at these
;
While looking
and numbers of Greek soldiers who were wearing some of the Turkish clothing. Now and then a soldier would pass
army
supplies,
238
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
with one of his gray overcoats, and sometimes I would see him wearing a Turkish muffler or hood, called by the Turks a Balaklavala helmet. Most of the men were wearing a bright, red sash. This sash was given to the soldiers by the Queen, and every one
was proud of the gift. While we were at the Arsenal, I gained some valuable information about the army in Salonica. Most of the king's household were in Salonica, especially the king and his two sons. Prince Constantine was there, as commander of the troops that captured the town, and as soon as order was restored his father, the king, came. It was well that the king and his family arrived, for the splendid tact of King George and the graciousness of his son. Prince Nicholas, did wonders in harmonizing the people, especially the Jews of Salonica. A Bulgarian army was near when Prince Constantine and his army marched into the city. Many rumors were abroad that clashes had occurred between the Greeks and Bulgars, but they were without foundation. Before the prince and his army entered

Salonica the Turkish
officials
239
had wrought
the people to a high pitch of nervousness. These officials had told the Jews that the
Greek army would rape, rob and murder them, which made them apprehensive. But
as soon as the king conferred with the leaders of the Jews, they realized that the Turks
had deceived them. The Jews who were living in Salonica were weary of persecution, as were their ancestors who had been driven out of Spain on account of their religion, and they had settled in Salonica, where they
could be free to follow their faith in their
officials, knowing of worked on them and excited them, but King George and his sons calmed their fears by their tact and diplomacy. I was told that the Jews of Salonica are more
own way. The Turkish

their fears,
than pleased in the change of rulers. As a matter of fact, the Greek government is tolerant of all religions, because their own religion is broad and does not believe in petty
tyrannies.
We
spent several hours in the military

(the
academy
West Point
of the kingdom).
240
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
well located
The academy was

posed of
and
is
com-
modem buildings. On the walls of the buildings are pictures and scenes of the famous battles of the world, and pictures of
famous warriors and
floor
soldiers.
On
the
of the building are several ground pieces of Turkish artillery that had been
captured in the previous wars from Turkey.

All of these things indicated that the Greek instructors had been systematically teaching
and impressing them with the importance of defeating this enemy, and teaching them at the same time that the Turk was an enemy that should not be underestimated. I had been told by Turkish officers their inspiration was the great soldier, the
the
young
officers
Sultan Saladin, who has successfully Repelled the invasion of the Christians during the crusades, and they were taught to maintain the lands they held and never to take
any backward steps. I compared these things, and realized these nations were natural enemies for centuries.
The military barracks were being used as hospitals for sick and wounded soldiers and

sailors.
241
The day we were at the academy a naval officer died and his friends charged that it was on account of neglect by one of
the surgeons.
I afterwards heard that the
government dishonorably discharged the surgeon. There were in the building numbers of bright, manly-looking boys, who carried themselves well and showed they were
very proud of their position. I was told by a volunteer that while he was walking along Stadium Street one day he failed to salute a cadet, who stopped him to inquire why he did not salute when he approached. The volunteer told the cadet that he did not know he was an officer, but thought he was merely a schoolboy. The cadet impressed him with the fact that he was one of the future officers
of the army. The volunteer promised the cadet that in the future he would remember
his injunctions. At this time the city was so crowded with soldiers the military commander of Athens
deemed
it
necessary to establish a provost

all
guard, whose duty every evening was to
apprehend
le
delinquent soldiers and ab-
242
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
sentees.
larly,
The patrol made its rounds reguand whenever they caught a soldier
without a pass, they promptly arrested him,
which excited the curiosity of the people.
The volimteers usually spent their evenings and cafes, and some members of the guard would always come in and question each soldier they found sitting around. Whenever the soldier had his pass,
in the coffee houses
he took as
it
much time
as he could showing
and the sergeant of the guard would become impatient while the man was
to the guard,
getting the pass out of his pocket. When he finally showed the pass, the sergeant would
say, ^*It is a good thing for you that you have this pass. I am sure to get you yet." The crowds sitting around would laugh while the sergeant passed on to another soldier. Whenever he found a soldier who did not have a pass, he would lead him out of
the cafe to the laughter and cheers of the crowd. The Greek volunteers from America
would always cheer the sergeant when he made an arrest, because they were very shrewd in dodging the guard. As soon as
243
the drills of the day ended, the American volunteers would hurry to their hotels to
change their uniforms for citizens' clothes and then seek the cafes with absolute security. As there were so many soldiers in Athens, the guard did not know one man
from another, and
their citizens' clothes
made good
disguises for these slick Ameri-
can volunteers who knew this and took advantage of the patrol, and they made bold
to cheer the
rests.
guard when
it
made
these ar-
The government at the expense of the volunteers permitted them to occupy rooms in the hotel, as all of the barracks were
crowded.
The American volunteers ap-
peared
ters,
to be able to furnish their
own quar-
to our style of habits, naturally spent their evenings in the cafes where they could meet each other and
listen to the
and being accustomed
music of the orchestras and
dance
halls.
Whenever the orchestra played
the national air of the kingdom, each soldier and citizen would rise to his feet and hold
his
hand
in salute at the visor of his cap.
244
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
This pleased me, as it showed that every one had a deep reverence for the government; and reminded me of the bovs at home when our bands play the Star Spangled Banner.
Bands of college boys would come to the cafes and sing their college songs, and, while
they were singing, some one would pass a box for contributions for the benefit of the helpless
dependents of the sick and wounded soldiers. I saw these boxes passed many times and never saw a Greek fail to contribute. Numbers of citizens had not joined the army when I arrived in the kingdom, but now all able-bodied men were in. I could see the change. The gendarmes were old men,
and much of the business of the city was being conducted by the women. Farms and fields were being worked by them. Most of the officers on duty in Athens had white hair. I rarely saw young oflScers, and when I did they were on their way to join their commands.
at the
One day while waiting for Colonel Liolas war department, I heard a very amus-
ing conversation between the colonel and a
245
peasant. The peasant had a claim against the government, and was attempting to show
the colonel that an
army wagon had
killed
was the
one of his chickens. He claimed the chicken finest fowl in the kingdom and of a high breed and very valuable. The colonel
him until his patience was exwhen the man began to expatiand hausted, ate on the value of the chicken, the colonel
listened to
yelled at
him
as he ran out of the
room
that
he did not believe he ever owned a chicken. The colonel laughed and told me that a large part of his time was taken up in listening to this kind of complaints which were imaginary or trivial. The colonel always considered any real or legitimate claim against the government. I had spent for uniforms and
equipments while in the army four hundred and fifty drachms, or ninety dollars, and the colonel promptly reimbursed me this sum Through Mr. Carmilas. At the same time
he offered to pay my passage to America, which I declined. Colonel Liolas is one of
the ablest officers in the Greek service, being a colonel of engineers. He has a good head
246
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
for details, and the government keeps him on duty at the ministry. He was anxious to
get to the front, but Mr. Venizelos Carmilas needed him in Athens.
and Mr.
247
CHAPTER
Farewell Dinner
XXIII.
We See a Colonel ^s FuneralAm Given a
I Bid Athens Good bye Wherein I Describe Albanians Aboard Ship Some of Their Troubles.
We
One evening, while sitting in the PanHellenic Cafe I met the captain of the Greek
were glad to prison ship Serosistis, meet again, and I said to the captain, Mr.
you doing in Athens r' He replied that he had business with the government in connection with his vessels. It seems the captain's family owned two large ships the government was using as transports, and the government requested the captain to come to Athens to get money
Massiosksis,
'*What
are
for the use of the vessels.
I asked the cap-
tain the value of his ships, and to
my
sur-
prise they were worth more than two million dollars. This incident showed me the government was meeting its obligations as fast
as
could get to them. About this time I met two of the most
it
ele-
'
248
AN AMERICAN
little
SOLDIER
gant
kingdom, the Misses Nellie and Artemis Canellidis. They were representatives of an old and highly respected Greek family and had been well eduladies in the
cated.
To my
surprise, they told
me
they
were conducting in the city a large daily paper called the Times, They were the most pleasant and agreeable ladies I had seen since I left America. Mr. Marcopoluos and I were standing on the site of the Temple of Jupiter one afternoon when we heard a band coming down the street playing a slow and solemn funeral dirge. In a few moments the
procession arrived at the Temple. It the funeral party of a Greek colonel,
was
who
had been wounded in one of the battles, and after a few days had died. The funeral was the most impressive I ever saw. It was headed by the band from
the palace, followed by a full regiment of
infantry, then a soldier carrying a cross, and behind the soldier the priest in his long
robes.
Then
the f amiljy
the funeral car, surrounded by and intimate friends of the dead
249
came, followed by carriages filled with floral offerings. These were followed
officer,
by two more regiments of infantry. The procession was a long time passing the old Temple, while the streets were thronged
with people. Every person in the throng removed his hat and bowed his head as a silent farewell to the hero who had died. As the
of the escort passed, I took a place in the rear of the party and accompanied them to the cemetery. As the body of the soldier was lowered into its last restlast
member
ing place, the priest said the prayers for the dead. As the last piece of earth was placed
on the grave, the trumpeters of his regiment sounded taps. As the last wailing note quivered on the air, I mentally said another
tribute to Greece.
The time had now come for me to return to America, and when my friends in Athens learned that I was to go, they gave me a farewell dinner, and many happy speeches and good wishes were exchanged. The orchestra played the Star Spangled Banner and the Greek national air, and after a pleas-
250
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
ant evening, mutual farewells were said. The morning after I took the train for Piraeus, where I was to take the Italian
steamer Romania for Brindisi^ Italy. But I missed the vessel and crossed Greece again by rail to Patras. This was the third time I had crossed the kingdom. When I arrived at Patras, the port doctor had declared a quarantine against the ship as it stopped at
on its way to Brindisi. No one was permitted on board, and I had to remain in Patras for another steamer. I went to my old quarters at the Hotel Eoyal, kept by Mr. Karameros. He was pleased to see me and
this port
glad that I was convalescing. Two days later the Austrian Lloyd steamer Baron Call came
from Alexandria, Egypt, and after boarding the ship and bidding my friends in
into port
Patras good-bye, she

Brindisi.
left the
harbor for
While in Patras I met Mr. Cook, the American consul, and had dinner with him and his wife. She is a very pleasant American woman. They had been living in Patras for some time and expressed themselves as
251
being pleased with the people. Mr. Cook told me it was a pleasure to deal with the
Greek business men, who were the soul of honor and integrity. The Baron Call had on board a large number of passengers from all parts of the world. There were English,
Germans, Austrians, Russians, Swiss, Spaniards, Italians and some four hundred Albanians, the latter returning
French,
from a sacred pilgrimage

' '
to Mecca, *Hhe
holy city
of Arabia.
These Albanians had been carrying out the mandates of the Koran, as every Moslem is bound to undertake once in his lifetime
and among the ceremonies he performs in Mecca is the circuit around the Kaaba and the kissing of the Black Stone. All of these pilgrims were extremely religix)us, and spent their time praying from dark until dawn. I watched them closely, as the Albanian question was liable to assume grave importance in the Balkans. They wore quaint turbans, or folds of cloth of many colors, around their heads. The habits and customs of these
this pilgrimage to the holy city,
252
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
pilgrims always amused me and their slightest motions attracted my instant attention.
I noticed they lounged around, dozed and scratched themselves so that it is a wonder the hide did not
ship
in their sleep their itchings kept their hands going. Only for a short while did it seem that they would get a rest
off.
One day on board
come
Even
from the
little
pests that infested their un-
In desperation would a big pilgrim in his sleep huddle his knees close to his chin for change and comfort, only to be violently assaulted in a tender spot on his person by the army of creatures that live and thrive on the man with short finger nails and
clean bodies.
unkempt person.
Whenever a pilgrim
goaded by these little cannibals kicked in his sleep, he was almost sure to strike a more
fortunate companion who was just then having a vacation from a similar misery. Up
would leap his companion, cursing and scratching by habit. This would arouse the vast crowds on his body who had all gone to bed on full stomachs, and awake them to the

fact that breakfast
253
was ready.
Then would
commence a fight for the victim's blood. Up and down his person his fingers would
go, trying to destroy or imprison the greedy little creatures or else to vainly attempt to
capture them one at a time and murder them between the upper and nether surfaces of his thumb nails. I watched this fight between this hide-bound pilgrim and his ferocious enemies until I fairly screamed with merriment. When evening came and the muezzin who calls them to prayer beckoned the crowd, they would fall prone on their faces and heads to worship, beating their heads against the deck in reverence and spiritual seriousness as best they could, while the multitude of tiny gluttons dined on his cuticle, tempting him to undignified jerks and contortions to relieve his pain. While beating his head upon the deck he took advantage of
his position to wipe the top of it against the boards to allay the irritation that threatened
to scalp him. at ease. And
At no time did he seem to be when at last he was free to wander about with his mind upon Moham-
254
AN AMERICAN SOLDIER
med and
his finger nails upon his body, he returned to the inevitable habit. As fast as his body would be replenished by his meager meal, so fast would he give the nourishment
and only when everything on his person was satiated would the distracted pilgrim find reto his rapacious
visitors,
lief in
and oppressive
Assuredly. reached Brindisi at an early hour. Brindisi is one of the oldest cities of Italy,
slumber.
' '
' '
We
and was famous during the time of the Crusades as one of the ports they used to embark from on their journeys to recover the Holy City from the same Turk Greece and her allies were fighting. It was at Brindisi the celebrated poet Marcus Pacuvius was born
;
also the place of death of the great Virgil, another famous Roman writer. From Brin-
took the railway to Rome, and, while historic sights usually seen by there,
disi I
saw the
visitors.
Among them was the Forum,
Coli-
seum, Catacombs, Pantheon, Theater of Marcellus, Arches of Constantine and Titus
and the old temples of Neptune, Concord and Fortune, the palace of Caligula, also the
255
Mausoleun^ of Hadrian and the Palace of the Pope, and the great Cathedral of Saint
Peter.
256
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
CHAPTER XXIV.
I
Go TO Rome and Naples^ and Then Home The Greek Soldier a Patriot Moun-
tain Rebels Best Shots in Kingdom.
The scenes in and around Rome are many and grand, representing the earlier history of civilization. But an experienced eye
could see the superiority of the old Grecian architects and builders over the Romans.
The ruins of the Greeks were many centuries older and are incomparably more substantial in workmanship and appearance. Prom this old and historic city I took the train for Naples, and after spending some time with the doctors and seeing as much of the city as my illness would permit, I boarded the Italian steamer Mendoza, and after a rough and
stormy passage across the Mediterranean
and the Atlantic, arrived in New York City. Prom New York I went to Chicago, where I
my hearing. After I on to my home a few came days spending in Nashville, Tenn., where the local Greek
consulted a doctor about

colony, headed
topuliis, this local
257
by their consul, Mr. PanagioI learned that

its
gave me a reception.
colony had done more than
part
in helping the kingdom in sending money to Greece.
men and
As I am
finishing these lines I learn that
Janina has been taken by Prince Constantine and his army, and in the final assault on the forts his losses were only one thousand eight hundred and fifty men. To me it is remarkable. This siege and capture will go down into history as one of the most important in years. And when the military experts of the world learn of the difficulties the
Greek army had in getting at the enemy, Prince Constantine and his army will be a nation all Europe must reckon with. It had the statesman Venizelos, and now it has demonstrated that it has an army of soldiers, and is not an army of merchants and shopkeepers uninformed critics have said. I rejoice at the victory and regret I was not at the capture,
but will always be proud of having been with their army and had the opportunity to see
17
268
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIER
them from every angle, and under different circumstances and conditions. In conclusion, I will briefly sum up my views of the different elements of the Greek army and its people: Prince Constantine has no superior as a military commander; the Greek sailor has no superior and few equals the Greek volunteer, or private soldier, is of unquestioned courage, and obeys his orders cheerfully and in good faith. He is a patriot pure and simple, as he receives only two cents a day pay the Greek officer is dignified, well educated and brave to the point of rashness. The Greek infantry is well organized and is a credit to its organizers. The Greek artillery is officered and manned by the most scientific men in the kingdom, and Europe has no better. The Greek Efonzes are the most audacious sol;
diers in the kingdom.
No
*
braver
men
can
be born. The mountain 'bands," or rebels, are the best shots in the kingdom, immured to hardships. They can walk, run or climb without apparent exertion. The Greek engineers are officers of rare ability and build
UNDEB THE QBEEK 1AG
259
military roads for artillery over seemingly
The Greek surgeons impassable places. have established a precedent in their treatment of the sick and wounded that all nations would do well to follow. The Greek priests, or Pappas, are practicing the religion they preach, as they are with the sick
and wounded of the army day and night. The women of Greece are modest and unassuming and their nobility of character is being demonstrated in their devotion and attention to the helpless boys in the hospitals, and to those who are working on the farms
stores. All praise and honor are due to them, as thousands of them are keeping the wolf away from the door while the male members of the family are in the army. The king and his household are at their posts
and in the
doing
all
in their jDower to further the suc-
cess of the war. Messrs. Venizelos
and Coro-
molias are able to handle any situation, war or peace. Too much credit cannot be given
the nation.
Greece has been actually free only eighty-five years, although her history is more than three thousand.
260
AN AMERICAN
SOLDIEiR
sum up my views of the Turk as follows The Turk is brave with a fanaticism born of his religious teachings he fights like a madman and accepts his fate as a martyr. He is bigoted and is arbitrary if in authority. He is kind and considerate to his own aged. He is humane to dumb animals. The Turkish
I
:
tlemen.
seem to be serious, sober-minded genThe Turkish soldiers appear to be as wild and savage as their ancestors. The Turk must become a part of civilized Europe
officers
or retire to Asia forever.
He needs religion,
not fanaticism. He needs modern progress if he hopes to exist. The powers of Europe have saved him in the past, but it seems now his time of departure is at hand. Selfish interests cannot bolster him up any longer. The Balkan federation has won its victory, and all Europe should applaud, not obstruct
or interfere.
Too much praise cannot be given the volunteers from America who rushed to the aid
of the kingdom.
They gave up
their busi-
ness, maybe their futures, and some of them their lives, and others their health and
261
strength. Those who fell will be honored by You their nation as long as time lasts. Greeks belong to the nation. That is why
In the days of old Sparta, when the soldier went to the wars, his old mother g^ve him a shield and said to ^^ the boy, Return with it or on it." As long as the people of Epirus, or Turkey in Europe, are dominated by the hordes of the Turkish Sultan, it is your duty to remain
your mother bore you.
is
with your armies but when honorable peace declared, return to us and resume your
;
peaceful pursuits. You will find a cordial and hearty welcome awaiting you. You have lived in our midst and we know you are selfrespecting, law-abiding
and useful
tell
citizens,
and when you return,

nation
is
our people your free of the curse of drunkenness.
I watched you closely for months in your country and never saw a single case of intox-
although whiskey, beer, koniak and wine are sold everywhere.

ication,
End.
THIS BOOK
IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW
AN INITIAL PINE OP
25
WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH DAY AND TO $1.00 ON THE SEVENTH DAY OVERDUE.
CENTS
AUG 31
1942
(^
284409
UNIVERSITY OF CAUFORNIA IvIBRARY

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B S4b SHy

AN AMERICAN SOLDIER UNDER THE GREEK FLAG AT BEZANIE

Brigadier-General, National Guard of Tennessee (Retired)

GRBBK-AMRICAN PUBUaHING COMPANY

America, who so cheerfully and liberally donated their means to

their homes, friends

when he was a boy seventeen years

and was rapidly promoted

position, his energy

that the State would be called on to furnish

of Infantry as Captain of Company D, where he served during the Spanish- Ameri-

a boy, only 22 years of age.

UNDER THE GREEK FLAG

Colonel for five years and

of Tennessee, Malcolm R. Patterson, appointed him the Commissary General of the

previous training fitted him

for the post.

this time the

Hutchison, Major of Artillery, Kingdom of Greece, Legion of Garibaldi.

Prince Constantine, Commander-in-Chief of Greek Army.

King George of Greece.

Hutchison, Brigadier General tional Guard of Tennessee, U.

UNDER THE GREEK FLAG

UNDER THE GREEK FLAG

characteristic language to the war department he remarked that he came to ^^help

Greece, not to bleed her." While in Turkey in Europe he saw the

Greek army in the various

battles before the

UNDER THE GREEK FLAG

where he was given a hearty welcome by

Colonel Hutchison was notified that a

selected Greece as the

UNDER THE GREEK FLAG

Colonel Hutchison was one of a staff of

escorted 2,700 Turkish prisoners to the Island of Corfu. This band of

prisoners was captured by Prince Constantine in one of his battles.

'^They are the most ignorant

improve their conditions.

creditable act to kill a

being, but a and the whole

GREEKS ARE FEARLESS. Colonel Hutchison relates

numerous and fear-

lessness of the Greek.

he, 'I witnessed

astonishing boldness on the part of two

by sheer boldness. As the tons of stone

^^His description of the actions of Major Doulous, in command of the battalion he

Loving Cup Presented to Col. Hutchison

Colony of Nashville, Tenn.

UN0ER THE GREEK FLAG

extensive magazine story of his experiences in the Greek army.

Colonel Hutchison was

UNDER THE GREEK FLAG

young Greek boy's head in

shows the hole through which

at his next meeting

that the date should be left for his

appreciation of his services to the