Changeling Venice
Changeling Venice
Changeling Venice
Venice has stood since the end of the
Roman Empire founded by refugees who fled
the invading Huns. The people from the north
east of Italy fled their lands and took boats out
into the lagoon and settled on the marshy
islands. These survivors of the Western
Roman Empire were ruled over by the
Byzantine Emperor of the Eastern Empire, and
in the 8th century the first Doge of the lagoon
was elected, Orso, who was recognized by the
Byzantine Empire. Orsos successor and son,
Diodato, moved the seat of power of the
region to the isle of Malamocco. This move to
Malamocco was a sign of Venetians wanting
to become unimpeded traders while being able
to defend themselves from pirates and
invaders. Venetians were looking for
autonomy. Not too much, but enough so that
they were masters of their own trade.
Venetian control of the lagoon and the
Adriatic continued easily for the next few
decades, undisturbed by the fall of Ravenna,
the seat of Byzantine rule over the ports of the
Adriatic. However, the Lombards, the new
rulers of Ravenna, were then ousted by the
Franks, led by Charlemagne, who assumed the
title of emperor of the Western Holy Roman
Empire. Venetians were caught in the middle.
On the one hand, they had their loyalty to
Byzantium, and on the other they had a new
Emperor on the border to their duchy.
The current Doge, Obelario, courted
both parties, and together with the Duke of
Dalmatia traveled to the Frankish capital and
claimed to ignore Byzantine authority while
asking for their lands to be seen as
independent. However, this was seen as an
affront to Byzantium and in return a fleet was
sent from Constantinople to the Venetian
lagoon. The Doge surrendered claiming it was
all the fault of the patriarch of Grado. With
Venice between two rival powers, the isles and
their people were split by internal bickering
and conspiracy. In an attempt to once more
dominate the region, Charlemagne sent his
son, Pepin, King of Italy, to the Adriatic at the
head of a large fleet. Ravenna and Dalmatia
fell, but the march of Pepins forces was halted
at Malamocco where the Venetian forces were
focused. The refugees from the conflict fled to
Castle Olivolo, in the centre of the lagoon,
which stood in the Rivoalto - high ground -
(later contracted to Rialto) Islands. From these
isles the city of Venice would be born.
Of course the Frankish fleet was intent
on finding and destroying the Venetians. But
legend has it that when the fleet asked for
directions from a woman, the fleet was pointed
in the wrong direction, running aground in the
shallow water. It was here the Venetian fleet
destroyed the Franks. The network of shallows
would be the natural Venetian defenses for
centuries.
The next Doge to be elected, Agnello
Partecipazio, was the first Doge to have
Venetian coinage minted. The Doges family
was affluent and owned much land. Under the
rule of Agnello, the Venetians enjoyed the
privileges of both the Eastern and the Western
empires.
It was in the mid-ninth century that the
first Doges Palace was erected. As the
influence, power, and wealth of the Venetians
grew, so did their territory. They aided the
Byzantine Greeks in their war against the
Muslims. But the most important event was in
828 A.D. , when the body of St Mark arrived
in Venice.
Legend has it that St Mark had first
preached in the lands of Veneti, and that by
right his body should rest there. But at the time
the body of St Mark lay in Alexandria. Two
Venetian merchants convinced the priest who
cared for the body to hand the body over so
that it may be taken to Venice. In order to
move the body in secret, it was stowed with
pork. Pork being a vile meat to Muslims, who
controlled Alexandria, was used to pack the
cargo, the Venetian hoping that this would
deter the Muslims. Along the journey back to
Venice one miracle said to have happened was
the vision of St Mark before a monk, asking
for the man to warn the merchants that they
must lower their sails in order to survive a
coming storm. Once in Venice, the body was
placed in the chapel next to the Doges Palace,
where it would rest until a church was built
that was grand enough.
Venice grew and soon was more than a
simple province. It was now an imperial
duchy. It still acknowledged the power of the
Western Empire but retained its autonomy.
With the growing population of the isles, the
lagoon became properly settled on the largest
islands. Simple single storey wooden houses
were the standard, and they lined the
embankments. Over time the marshes were
drained, and crops were grown on the islands.
The city continued to grow and soon all the
homes and streets formed a continuous
settlement. Each part of the city was centered
on the local churches, and the foundations of
the city were strengthened and reinforced. Of
course the main feature of the growing city
was the Grand Canal, the main waterway that
divides Venice in half.
Under the command of Doge Orso
Parteciapzio, the power of Venice increased
and it started to increase the amount of
military action that the duchy was involved in.
The primary aim of Venice was to remove the
pirates from the Adriatic in order to ensure the
safe passage of trade to Venice. The other
enemy of the duchy were the Saracens of the
south who held domain in southern Italy.
Venice itself also grew, with more of the
marshy islands being settled and built upon.
Venice even maintained its ban on slavery as
trade grew. Trade between Byzantium and
Venice flourished, and gifts were exchanged
between the Doge and the Emperor of the
Eastern Empire.
Trade was the lifeblood of Venice, the
reason for its existence. One item key to their
trade was salt, a substance that was their
currency for it could be traded for all the
things that could not be grown or reared on the
islands of Venice. However, trade came at a
price. There were Narentine pirates, against
whom expeditions were sent, and even a Doge
died at the hands of them. To the north there
were the Hungarian Tartars, against whom the
Venetians raised a wall to defend their city.
In the mid-tenth century, Venice
extended their trade to Istria, but in doing so
brought upon themselves the resentment of the
marquis of Istria. Venetians were jailed, cargo
confiscated, merchants killed and ships
destroyed. In response, the Venetians
blockaded the Istria ports leading to the
marquis begging for trade to be reopened.
Following on from this success the Venetian
military crushed the Croatians, Slavs and
Narentine pirates. Of course power breeds
greed and Venice was rife with internal
struggles. Families fought one another, and
father and son were even at each others
throats. This was the case of the Doges Pietro
III and his son Pietro IV, who after a long
struggle and the exile of the younger, finally
ended with the son returning and taking the
mantle of Doge.
As time went on and the power and
influence of Venice grew, the Doge saw no
reason why his people should submit to the
will of the emperors of either the east or west.
Sons were made patriarchs of neighboring
cities, wives were sent away so new marriages
of politics could be made. Such was the way
of the Doges of Venice as they made more and
more advances for power in the lands of Italy
and beyond.
Venice of course stood at the gateway
between the two great empires. And so in 967
when the Doge renewed their allegiance with
the Western Holy Roman Emperor, he made
the Emperor of the Eastern Empire angry,
threatening them, though under the pretext that
the Venetians had been trading with the
Saracens.
But life was not good for all Venetians.
And so Pietro IV paid the price for his despot
nature and warmongering at the hands of his
own people. The palace of the Doge was burnt
down, and with it St Marks Basilica and
numerous homes. The broken body of the
Doge was then taken for display in the
Rivoalto.
The next Doge, of the Orseolo family,
rebuilt the palace, built a hospital and had the
golden screen, the Pala dOro made for the
Basilica. This new Doge then abdicated, and
another of the Orseolo family took his place.
The new Orseolo Doge had higher
aspirations than just his own wealth. Under his
guidance Venice survived battles with the
Holy Roman Emperor Otto II and followed a
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political plan of Venetian prosperity.
Now Venice claimed lands to the north
east of Italy and, with the pirates and the Slavs
removed, the Adriatic was Venices alone. The
Doge laid claim to the lands of Dalmatia, he
was the Duke of the Dalmatians, and Venice
was now in a mystic union with the sea, a
ceremony which began back then.
The Marriage with the Sea is a sign
of Venetian dominance over the seas of the
Adriatic, the Aegean and the Mediterranean.
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Begun by Doge Peitro Orseolo II after
conquering of the Dalmatian coast, the
ceremony is a grand affair where the Adriatic
is even referred to as the Gulf of Venice. The
Doge dresses in gold and ermine, and sails in
an elaborate gilded galley called the Bucintoro
the Lido where he stands at the mouth of the
harbor.
Standing at the edge of the harbor with
the patriarch, the Doge throws a wedding ring
into the sea and says: We marry you, O sea, in
a sign of true perpetual dominion, asking God
to protect those who travel by sea. Rather
than throwing the ring into the ocean, in later
times the Doge would simply pour holy water
into the sea.
It was said that Pope Alexander
donated the ring for use in the ritual, while
others say that the ring was given to the Doge
by a fisherman who was given the ring by St
Mark.
Venetians had an elected Doge for a
reason. They disliked the idea of dynasties
ruling over the city, remembering the previous
tyrants of the Candiano family. And so Otto,
son of the previous Doge Pietro, was ousted
and exiled from the city.
In order to control the power of the
Doge, two councils representing factions from
either side of the Grand Canal were formed,
the Castellani and the Nicolotti. The Castellani
wore red caps to show their allegiance, while
the Nicolotti wore black caps. The rivalry was
seen as a benefit to the city, ensuring that the
people were always well trained for combat
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against each other and in turn for war against
enemies outside of Venice.
In 1081, 15 years after the invasion of
Britain by William the Conqueror, the
Normans continued to increase their lands,
seizing land in the Mediterranean, Italy, and
even going as far as invading the holdings of
the Byzantine Empire. Venice came to the
rescue, after all the Normans were now
imposing themselves upon the region of the
Adriatic, an area of Venetian domination. In
return Venice was rewarded with tax
exemptions when trading and was even given
its own quarter in the city of Constantinople.
Venice of course was not the only
republic to rule the waves. There was Pisa,
Amalfi and Genoa. During the First Crusade,
the Venetian ships captured a rival fleet from
Pisa, setting it free on the guarantee that
Venice alone would sail Byzantine waters.
Slowly the Venetians took a more
active role in the Crusades in order to take
advantage of the situation so that their rival
naval republics would not gain the upper hand.
In return for aiding the King of Jerusalem,
Venice was rewarded with land and tax
exemptions in the city. Even on the journey
back from the Holy Lands the Venetians took
many ports, such as Rhodes.
It was in 1126 the emperor of the
Eastern Empire, John II, called for peace with
Venice once more, and again Venice was
given a seal to show their right to tax
exemptions, so long as Venice aided in the
fight against the Saracens and Normans that
plagued the waters of Byzantium.
It was during this time of near constant
warfare in the seas that Venice acquired the
pink granite columns that stand in St Marks
Square. On top, once they were erected,
symbols of Venice were placed. These
symbols were St Theodore, the original patron
of Venice, and the winged lion of St Mark. It
was at these columns that the criminals would
be punished and executed.
It was also around this time that the
Arsenale, the place where warships were built,
stored, equipped and repaired, was founded. It
was the lynchpin in Venetian domination of
the seas. This domination of the Mediterranean
by Venice and other naval republics caused the
Byzantine Empire much anger, and in envy the
Emperor of Byzantium had many people from
the Venetian quarter of Constantinople held,
their possession and goods destroyed or
confiscated.
Soon after the failed excursion in 1171
by Doge Vitale Michiel II, the electoral system
for the selection of the Doge was reformed and
the Great Council was formed. This group of
over four hundred nobles would elect the Doge
in one of the most complicated systems ever
devised.
It was the alliance of cities with the
pope that prevented the then Holy Roman
Emperor, Frederick Barbarossa, from invading
the lands of Italy. In return Venice, through
politicking and diplomacy, achieved peace
with the Pope and true independence from
Rome.
In 1203 Venice was contracted to
transport and protect the troops of the Fourth
Crusade. However, the leaders of the Crusade
did not have enough money, and so the Doge
Enrico Dandolo diverted the crusade from its
course to Egypt. Instead they first landed on
the Dalmatian coast and sacked Zara. Then the
fleet moved on to Constantinople, seeking
revenge for the treatment of Venetians in
recent times.
At first the siege on land failed, and the
Crusade forces were repelled. But then they
changed tactics and assaulted the walls of the
city from the sea. Lashing together ships they
were able to construct siege towers and so
were able to scale the sea walls.
Constantinople was sacked, its riches
taken away by the crusading forces. One
treasure of importance was the four bronze
horses that now stand atop of St Marks
Basilica.
The lands of the Eastern Empire were
then divided up and a new puppet emperor was
put in place to rule over the empire. In total the
lands now under the rule of Venice accounted
for three quarters of the Roman Empire.
Venice was now indeed mighty, and its
influence was over the entire Mediterranean.
Of course this colonial empire of
Venice was not left unopposed. The forces of
Genoa and the revenge-thirsty Byzantines
formed an alliance against the Venetians.
In Syria the Venetians broke the chains
barring the port and destroyed the Genoese
ships. But soon after the Genoese-Byzantine
alliance retook Constantinople from the
Western Empire. However the Venetians were
not prevented from trading in Constantinople
by the Byzantines. Aggression between the
Genoese and the Venetians came to an end
with a peace treaty that was overseen by the
king of France.
The complex election system of the
Doge was introduced in 1268 by the Doge
Lorenzo Tiepolo.
The system was designed to ensure that
it could not be influenced by just one family or
subject to fraud.
The Great Council, over four hundred
nobles, would select 30. Those 30 chose 9 of
themselves. Those 9 selected 40 from the
Great Council, who in turn selected 12 of their
own. These 12 chose another 25 from the
council who reduced themselves to 9. Those 9
chose another 45 from the council, who
reduced themselves to 11. These 11 chose 41
councilors who then elected the doge.
Easy, neh?
The 13
th
century saw Venice undergo
much social reform. There was the new
electron system already, but also many public
works, including state funded doctors and
management of the lagoon itself. But of course
all these are nothing compared to the might of
an earthquake, and one such major tectonic
event caused much suffering to Venice. This
century also saw Venice extend its hand ever
further, enforcing their dominion over others,
securing their trading rights and even minting
a coin that would be used beyond the
boundaries of their empire, such was the
prestige that came with the name Venice.
It was also in this century that the
explorer Marco Polo returned to his homeland.
He brought with him tales of the distant lands
of China and India, and spoke of the great
wealth and opportunity that such a trading
route could give.
The end of the 13
th
century was not
easy as enemies at home and abroad moved
against the Republic. Doge and Saracen,
Byzantine and Genoese - all had their eyes set
on Venice.
The early 14
th
century saw more
changes to the way Venice was administered,
with the Great Council being locked. This
meant that eventually only those houses that
were members would be members for life, and
so membership to the Council became
hereditary. The Doge was now elected by the
elite and not by the masses. Though such a
change led to stability, the removal of the
publics right to vote on the Doge meant that
they would become disenfranchised and
rebellious.
Conspiracies against the Doge were not
uncommon, but the Doge had his own allies.
The punishments meted out to those insurgents
were not light. Exile was a light sentence, the
worst being torture and execution in front of
the pillars in St Marks Square.
The influence of Venice extended far
and wide. Ships laden with cargo would set
sail to Constantinople, the Black Sea, Spain
and London. Venice even began to make
inroads into land-based trade routes to the
north, much to the annoyance of the merchants
of Padua and Verona.
The mid 1300s were not the easiest for
Venetians as the city was hit by an earthquake,
and the Plague finally arrived in Venice. No
surprise in hindsight, as Venice had ships
travelling to all ports in the Mediterranean.
Over a half of all Venetians died.
War once more hit the Venetian
traders. Again it was from Genoa. However,
for once the Byzantine forces were the
Venetians allies. With a shortage of troops,
and Venetian forces depleted by the Plague,
the Venetian galleys were also manned by
troops from Dalmatia and Byzantium. But as
the war came to an end between the two
republics a new Doge came to power. A great
traitor - Doge Marin Falier.
Falier was the model citizen and
statesman. He was a count, a lord, a knight and
a merchant of high renown. Brought to the
palace on the Doges galley, he passed
between the two pillars in the square. This was
considered a bad omen. Falier had plans to
take Venice and appoint himself as dictator.
Whether it was out of revenge for a previous
slight against his family or just political
ambition, Falier formed a conspiracy to take
the throne for his family. But the conspiracy
was uncovered, Falier executed and his co-
conspirators were either hanged or exiled.
Falier was executed on the 17
th
of
April 1355, a day considered unlucky in Italy.
He was decapitated on the grand staircase of
the palace, his head displayed to the public and
his body buried in an unmarked grave. In
thanks to God for stopping this plot against
Venice, the event was honored by holding a
public Mass in St Marks. By decree of the
Council of Ten the traces of Falier were
removed from the palace, his portrait painted
black and inscribed upon with the following:
This would have been the place of Marin
Falier, beheaded for the crime of treason.
War with Genoa was followed by
battles against the Padua, Austria, and
Hungarians, any who laid their sights on the
lands of Dalmatia. The new Doge of Venice
was the captain Lorenzo Celsi. He was brought
back to the city as he had been elected while
he was out at sea. However, peace with the
Genoese was never permanent. Plagues swept
the city at the end of the fourteenth century
and the lagoon of Venice even came under
attack.
At the start of the fifteenth century
Venice was a growing power on land and in
the seas. The start of the century was a time of
celebration, with jousting contests held in
honor of the new Doge. But soon enough war
came to Venice again. And once more it was
Hungarians, Turks, and the leader of Aquileia.
But the lands of the Venetian Empire grew.
But with this came rivals. The Visconti of
Milan, the Carraras of Padua and the Scaligeri
of Verona.
Doge Francesco Foscari came to power
in 1423, but was the first Doge whom was
elected without the blessing of the people. The
Council of Ten now was fully in command of
the selection of the Doge. But the previous
Doge, Tommaso Mocenigo had warned the
Council against Foscari, calling him a
warmonger and a liar. He was not wrong.
There was war against Milan, and it cost
Venice dearly, with Foscari eventually forced
out of office by the Council of Ten.
The fifteenth century was also an age
of exploration, with Venetian merchants
traveling the world and bringing back new
goods, and new ideas, making Venice the
unique city that it is. Merchants traveled as far
as the Atlantic African coastline and beyond.
This century also saw the end of Venices old
rival, Constantinople, at the hands of the
Turks.
In Venice the new trade was the
printed word. It was a new export that made up
for the lack of trade due to the fall of
Constantinople to the Turks. Trade routes had
to be shifted for safety of the merchant fleet,
and the loss of trade would have hit the purses
of the Venetian merchant if not for new forms
of trade. Venice was the growing centre of the
printed word, publishing hundreds of books
constructing hundreds of printing presses. It
cemented Venice as the intellectual capital of
the world, publishing books on art, war,
religion, history, and science.
Meanwhile the war against the Turks
was escalating. Venetian ports in Greece were
overrun; the coast of Dalmatia was attacked.
But peace was eventually made, and Venices
new sign of prestige, their new export, was art.
So as a sign of peace Venice sent the painter
Gentile Bellini to paint the Sultans portrait. In
the Renaissance, Venetian artists were more
than artists, they were celebrities and
ambassadors. One prominent artist was Titian
who studied under Gentile and Giovanni
Bellini. He studied the classical forms and
painted some of the most erotic nudes ever to
be seen. Other paintings depicted scenes from
the Bible, but the painters pushed the
boundaries of accepted art. In particular
Veronese was deemed a heretic for including
images of fools, drunks and dwarves in his
painting of the Last Supper. The artists of
Venice were incurring the wrath of the Church
as they pursued art.
The Renaissance was not all good for
the Venetians. With the Americas discovered
and new trade routes to the Indies, the
Venetian markets for their goods plummeted.
To be rivals of these new markets, it meant
that Venice had to face the might of powers
such as France and Spain, and at the start of
the 15
th
century these countries looked to Italy
for new territory. Old Italian enemies of
Venice were now new allies against the
powers of Europe. Worse still was that
rivalries with Milan led to the Turks renewing
their attacks against Venetian lands in
Dalmatia. Venice was being attacked from all
sides, Christian and Muslim alike. Venice had
to make a choice, and for the time being they
had to hand over their dominance of the seas
of the Mediterranean.
In 1508 war was declared against
Venice once more. This time the threat was the
League of Cambrai. The League was formed
by all the great powers of Europe - the Pope,
the Holy Roman Emperor, the Spanish, French
and Hungarians. All of these European
kingdoms and lords wanted a piece of the
Serenissima. Though they lost land to the
Spanish, the Pope, Julius II, was convinced
that the end of Venice would be worse for
Christendom than if it remained. But soon
enough the League fell apart and allies turned
upon each other, this time against Spain. These
wars had a lasting effect, leaving Italy a
fractured land and weak, with Venice
retreating to its old borders. Venice had held
out against all odds and was revered for its
resolve.
Venice as it looks today has barely
changed since the end of the 15
th
century.
Venice consists of the canals, streets called
calli, and squares called campi.
Venetian architecture is unlike any in
Europe, fusing Western Gothic with Eastern
Byzantine styles. Palaces (palazzo) were the
merchants homes, but also a place of trade
and warehouses. They consisted of a central
courtyard that let light in, a main entrance that
opened onto the canals, and the upper stories
were given over to living space, with further
levels added in later years to some of the
palaces. In fact the palaces were only able to
be so boastful due to the protection given by
the Venetian fleet and the lagoon defenses.
Venice is also the origin of the
Classical style, first seen in the construction of
the land entrance to the Arsenale. The
Classical style was large and grand, echoing
the Empire of Rome and the times of the
Greek philosophers. It features clean lines and
imposing scales compared the more modest
and intricate Venetian Gothic. So while St
Marks Basilica is clearly of an eastern style,
the Doges palace boasts a merger of styles,
with a Venetian Gothic front, but also the
magnificent Giants Staircase, a Classical
staircase on which statues of Neptune and
Mars stand.
At the turn of the 16
th
century Venice
burned. Twenty four hours of fire ravaged the
Rialto. Venice was rebuilt, but not as it was. It
was now Classical, and what had begun with
the Arsenale now was to adorn the Doges
Palace and the Basilica. But this was all a
show of power while the Venetian Empire was
slowly being consumed by the growing powers
of Spain and France. One possibility to regain
their might was that Venice was to undergo an
overhaul, start the construction of ocean going
ships and engage in the dangers of traveling
through Spanish and Portuguese waters, so
that they might journey to the New World. But
Venice was no longer the naval power it once
was.
In an alliance with Spain, Genoa, and
the Pope, Venice once more went to war with
the Turks, and finally the march of the Turks
was halted and the powers of Christendom and
Islam began a long standing rivalry. But at last
the tide of the Turks had been ended. It was
this victory in the waters of Lepanto that
spread around Europe, news that the Sultan
had been killed by the might of the Christian
fleet.
Venice not only felt the pressure of
enemies beyond their borders, there were
traitors ready to see the Republic fall. But
amongst all the backstabbing and fear of the
Inquisitors of the Supreme Tribunal worse was
to come. But it did not arrive in the form of
Venetian or foreigner, but disease.
The Plague hit Venice. Often the
lagoon would prevent the spread of illness. But
not during the outbreak in 1575. The city was
suffering under the unbearable heat of the
summer, and the canals were swarming. Boats
were now filled with the dead rather than the
living. In fact the dead were now filling up the
canals with their unburied bodies and those
who fell sick and sank into the water. Venice
was at a loss as to what to do or why they were
suffering. Of course Venices trading was hard
hit, with ports fearing the Plague being
brought to their lands. But Venice was not
ruled by fools. Ships coming to Venice were
subject to health inspections and quarantined.
The Lazzaretti Islands were where the ships
would be taken. One island, Lazzaretto Nuovo,
was used to observe the ships and fumigate
them. Lazzaretto Vecchio was where the ill
were taken and watched for 22 days. If they
stayed healthy they were free to leave. But all
the Venetian precautions had failed. All the
best investigations could not find the cause of
the outbreak. Most saw that it was a
punishment from God. To maintain order it
was decreed that every house in the Great
Council present at least one person.
Venices population was reduced by a
quarter. But the skills and lessons learned
during the epidemic would save the city in the
future, and taught other countries how to
survive diseases.
Even after the death of some fifty
thousand people, Venice once more rose from
the ashes. In 1587 the first public bank was
formed, and soon followed by a second. These
banks were critical to the future of Venice as
they would help fund future wars. These banks
were revolutionary, allowing for credit, where
paper replaced coins and gold, and loans were
available. These public government run banks
were different to the previous private banks as
they allowed direct transfer of funds from the
books under one name to another name. It was
also about this time that the Rialto Bridge was
built. This bridge was Classical and signified
mans defiance against the elements. But as
always there were enemies at the gates. The
Turks and the Hapsburgs were expanding into
Venetian territory, while the Pope
excommunicated the Doge for imprisoning
priests for common crimes. Venice of course
did not care.
At the turn of the 17
th
century Venice
had to act as diplomat to the array of countries
around it. But this unenviable position led to
confrontations with the Austrians and their
new allies the Uskoks. The Spaniards also
tried to lay claim to the Adriatic but met a
defeat at the hands of Venices superior naval
might. Within Venice things were not easy as
traitors sought to take advantage of the
situation. One group, known as the Bravi, were
rounded up and hanged for their conspiracy.
Another traitor was Senator Foscarini, hanged
for giving secrets to the Spanish. But after his
death it was found that Foscarini was the
victim of a plot, and those that had perpetrated
the lie were executed.
Plague once more hit Venice in 1630,
following a famine. The end of the epidemic
was marked by another church, Santa Maria
della Salute, constructed in thanks for the
ending of the disease, joining the church from
the last epidemic, Il Redentore.
Even after another plague and the
famine, Venice was still considered a grand
and beautiful city. But this beauty masked the
darker side of Venetian life. Venetians were
always Catholics when it counted, otherwise
they were often happy to act in ways that
contradicted their faith and the words of the
Pope. This was true of all Venetians, even
their priests and nuns who engaged in
dangerous activities. Monks would attend
parties, and nuns would engage in sexual
activities. The lifestyle of the nobility of
Venice was no less extravagant.
The young nobles of the time wore the
latest fashions of France, though they hid
themselves under dark cloaks and dark caps.
But these simple cloaks were embellished with
gold thread, silk and lace, and many wore
noble wigs. On special occasions red robes
would be worn, but more outrageous were the
rituals of greeting each other. This obsession
with position and titles was not limited to the
nobles, as all Venetians expected to be referred
to by the correct term.
However, this was just the surface. The
nobles of Venice were far more involved in the
day to day affairs of the city and their
businesses, fighting on the front lines against
Turks. They were also admired for their
intellect, good nature and undaunted by bad
turns of luck. The nobles were also well
instructed on matters of the state.
The nobility of Venice considered
themselves the equal to princes as technically
they all had a right to be elected as Doge.
However there were ranks within the nobility.
The highest rank consisted of the oldest
families, who could trace their titles as far
back as 800. Then there were the new
families who were given titles after this year.
Very new families, the third rank, gained
their titles after they helped support the war
with Chioggia in 1380. The final ranks of
families were added to the ranks of the nobles
during the war of Candia in the 17
th
century
and the later war with Morea in the 18
th
century. These later nobles did not get their
positions for free; instead they had to pay
100,000 ducats.
Nobles were well fed on fish and
meats, but laws prohibited both being served
during the same meal. The same laws also
prohibited what people could wear. Of course
those below the nobles could only be as well
fed on the mainland.
Below the nobles were the middle
class, made up of the trained, skilled
craftsmen, doctors and city officials,
merchants and bankers. Below them were the
commoners, gondoliers, dock workers and
fishermen.
In 1638 war with the Turks continued
as the Venetian fleet destroyed pirates from
Africa, with battles escalating in 1644. The
Turks used the capture of the Sultans harem
as an excuse to invade Crete. Further battles
took place along the southern coastline of
Greece, and at the head of the Venetian force
was the dishonored Francesco Morosini, who
took Athens and returned to Venice a hero. He
was elected Doge and continued the fight
against the Turks until his death in 1693.
The start of the 18
th
century saw the
Turks take back the islands south of Greece,
but Venice was now taking the stance of
neutrality, and let these islands fall to the
Sultan. Venices naval power was in decline,
the Arsenale now silent. However, Venices
shops still had a booming trade. The Rialto
Bridge was lined with shops, and in the area of
the Rialto there were stalls selling fish, silk,
fruit and vegetables, cloth and gold.
But Venice had lost all of its trading
might and instead was known for its depravity
due to the antics of Giacomo Casanova.
The end of the 18
th
century brought the
end of mysticism as science changed the face
of the world. Steam power and electricity
would push back the boundaries of the world,
and as the nations of the world expanded,
Venice looked inward, remembering times
long lost.
Venice slipped ever more into its grave
while enjoying the feasts and balls of all the
festivities that the city followed. Gambling
was rife, and the nobles walked the streets
under the cover of a mask. Theaters showed
opera and the improvised shows of the
commedie dellarte. Music entertained the
people in these dwindling nights of the
Republic, such as the work of Vivaldi,
Galuppi, and the plays of Goldoni.
Royals and nobles from all of Europe
visited Venice, but their presence was not
enough to halt the decline of the city. New
ideas from revolutionaries were creeping in
and the Republic was in danger. The nobles of
Venice were lost in debt and the wealth of
ages past was now gone.
In 1786 Venices fleet took to the seas
for the last time, responding to the piracy of
the Barbary Coast Pirates. They were able to
get a truce, but the piece of paper meant
nothing as the pirates continued their attacks in
the Bay of Tunisia. But worse was to come. In
France the Revolution had struck; King Louis
XVI deposed. Venice stood neutral to the
growing wars with France as the greater
powers of Europe turned upon the rebel state.
In 1796 Napoleon marched on the
lands of Italy, sweeping through the north of
Italy, his sights set of the treasures of Venice.
On the 16
th
of May 1796 French troops entered
Venice. The Republic was over, and Venice
was handed over to Austria. In 1802 the last
Doge, Lodovico Manin died.
A few years later Napoleon returned.
This time Venice was taken back and became
part of the new Kingdom of Italy, which he
himself had established. However, soon after
the Austrians returned, taking Venice and
Milan. But the delights of Venice were not
gone. Venice attracted the eccentric and
debauched, such as the incestuous Lord Byron,
who indulged in the women of Venice and the
Carnival. Poets and artists like Byron still
found romance within the city, the decaying
islands being at their height of beauty.
In the mid 19
th
century the bridge from
the mainland to Venice was finished and it
carried modern steam trains. Gas light now
illuminated the squares of Venice, and for
some this progress was too much, ruining the
romantic beauty of the city. Rebellion soon
followed and Venice once more had the
chance of being a free republic. But the
Austrians retook the area of the Veneto, and
were only halted by the destruction of parts of
the lagoon bridge. Starved and bombarded, the
Venetians allowed the Austrians in once more.
Over the course of the mid 1800s wars
of independence were fought, and through a
series of uprising against their oppressors the
Italian states were unified after Venice was
handed to the French by the Austrians, who in
turn handed the territory over to the new
Kingdom of Italy.
Within this new state Venice continued
to crumble as its coffers were empty and it
great treasures were handed over. But efforts
were made to revive the port, with hotels built,
expansion of the lagoon bridge and the use of
modern boats along the canals. Electricity and
gas now powered the city, and slowly the city
awoke to the 20
th
century.
Venice was becoming home to the arts,
with opera premiered in the Teatro La Fenice,
and the first moving picture films were shown
in the city. Art was Venices new life blood.
The regeneration of Venice was
brought to a standstill with the start of the First
World War. At first neutral Italy joined the
Allies, hoping to settle old scores and regain
territories lost years before. Italy set its sights
on the old rulers, Austria, who in retaliation
bombed Venice.
After the war Venice continued to
modernize. A new industrial region was
formed and the port became the center of
commerce and production. Fascism swept the
nation, the regeneration of the country came at
the price of freedom. Italy pushed into Africa,
and the League of Nations declared sanctions
against the country. As an ally of Germany,
Italy entered World War II and Italian troops
fought French, Greek, Russian and in North
Africa. But Venice was lucky, as the enemies
of Italy spared it destruction in favor of hitting
the industrial towns of Mestre and Marghera.
In 1943 Italy overthrew Mussolini and
the Allies surged into southern Italy as
German forces came from the north to turn
them back, with Italian guerillas aiding the
Allies against the Germans. Eventually British
forces liberated the city.
After the war Venice continued to
grow, influencing the trade of refined
chemicals made on the mainland of the lagoon.
But progress had come at a cost, an unseen
one. The very nature of the lagoon, its
chemistry and dynamics, had been ruined by
industry.
In 1966 rain and wind caused Venice
to be flooded in a way unseen before.
Underground oil reserves were flooded and
burst, and the electricity was shorted out. But
the flood brought another type of flood.
Tourists. With Venice now in the spotlight, the
sinking city was the place to go. Now major
projects were funded by the world to save the
city. But now the population of the city
dwindled and homes became hotels. Venice
was maybe not dying on the outside, but the
people themselves were leaving.
The Venice of today is a centre of the
arts, films, fashion and a tourist location that
attracts thousands every year. Venice plays
host to a number of events all year round.
The city is part of the northern region
of the Veneto, along with the cities of Padua,
Verona, Vicenza, Treviso, Rovigo and the
towns of Mestre and Chioggia. To the north
the Veneto is bordered by Austria.
Venice itself has changed little since
the end of the 17
th
century. Venice consists of
a number of islands interconnected by bridges
and canals. The natural defenses of the city are
the shallow waters within the lagoon and the
barriers of the lagoon itself. Rivers were even
diverted to prevent silt building up in the
lagoon and thus allowing for attacks from the
mainland. However the islands of Venice are
low lying and subject to flooding. The acqua
alta, or high waters are due to a number of
causes. First there is dredging of the lagoon to
allow large ships into the very heart of Venice.
These underwater trenches helped the surging
water in the winter months to flow into
Venice. Secondly there is the issue of
subsidence. The industries along the coastline
began to suck water from wells, drawing it out
from beneath the lagoon itself. This has caused
the islands to slowly sink. Of course the final
contribution to the Acqua Alta is global
warming and the rising sea levels as the ice
caps melt. To tackle this threat a series of
barriers have been planned to that will inflate
and prevent the incoming tides from the
Adriatic. But future plans see the city being
raised higher by pumping material into the
earth beneath the city.
Venice consists of 6 main districts,
called sestieri. Three lie to the western side of
the Grand Canal. These are San Polo, Santa
Croce and Dorsoduro. On the other side are
Castello, San Marco and Cannaregio. The
largest island is Castello, originally called
Olivolo where the Roman fort was standing.
Getting to Venice is of course easier
now than it ever was. Venice is connected to
the mainland by a bridge along which trains
are carried to the station in Cannaregio, and
the main transport hub for cars and buses in
San Marco in Piazzale Rome. The Piazzale is
only a short walk from the fourth and newest
bridge over the Grand Canal that takes people
to the train station.
Most tourists arrive in the Veneto at
the airport of Marco Polo, located on the
mainland to the north of Mestre. Of course the
area can also be reached by air by arriving at
the Treviso Airport, which lies further inland
from Mestre. Arrivals at Marco Polo can either
take a private car or bus to Venice, a journey
that is only 20 minutes long. But those who
wish to arrive in style may hire a water taxi
and travel to the city. From the train station it
is easy for travelers to reach other cities and
towns in the Veneto, with Verona only an hour
or so away.
Travel about the city is primarily by
foot, with four bridges crossing the Grand
Canal. The Rialto bridge crosses the canal at
the very heart of the city. The Accademia
bridge crosses from the Peggy Guggenheim
museum of modern art in Dorsoduro, and leads
into San Marco. The bridge is wooden, and
replaced a dreadful iron bridge made in the
19
th
century. The Ponte dei Scalzi is another
arched stone bridge made by the Austrians and
joins Cannaregio to Santa Croce near the train
station, which is where the fourth bridge sits,
the, Ponte della Costituzione.
Numerous plans for were made for the
new Rialto Bridge. The previous bridge had
collapsed under the weight of a crowd
watching foreign ambassadors and nobles. The
new bridge was designed as part of a
competition. The winning design was single
grand arch that spanned the canal. This
winning design by Contino was subject to a
number of problems over the course of its
construction. Legend has it the problems were
the work of the devil, who would tear chunks
of stone from the bridge in the night. A
foreman did see the being, and heard its vow:
No man will ever succeed in building this
stone bridge, but for a price I can help you.
The devil didnt want the soul of the foreman.
Just the soul of the first man to cross the
bridge.
When the bridge was finished the first
person to cross the bridge would be a priest,
except a dog was seen to rush ahead. The act
saved the priest and trapped the devils soul.
The fastest way to travel between
places in Venice is by foot, but for those who
wish to travel from one end of the Grand
Canal to another, and then onward to the outer
edges of the city and to the other islands of the
lagoon, there are the water buses called
vaporetto. Travel by motorized boats up and
down the canals is limited in speed to prevent
damage to the canals. Only the emergency
services can break this limit. Of course most
produce and waste is transported from the
islands by boat, with goods being taken to the
morning markets.
San Polo lies at the heart of Venice and
starts at the western end of the Rialto and
extends as far as the Piazzale Roma. To its
north is the sestieri of Santa Croce, and to the
south is the region of Dorsoduro. The main
focus of the San Polo district is the market
area of the Rialto, with two main routes
winding through San Polo leading to the Rialto
bridge, Campo di San Polo, and the church of
Frari.
The Rialto is a garish and cluttered
collection of shops and stalls. The tables and
windows are filled with Murano glass, lace,
models of gondola, paper and writing journals,
masks and hats. The shops are pressed together
in the narrow streets, and even line the bridge
itself.
Near to the Grand Canal, just off the
Rialto bridge, is the more traditional market of
fresh produce that is brought into Venice daily.
Here there is fish brought in from the lagoon
and the Adriatic that morning, vegetables and
fruit from the mainland, meats and spices. By
midday the stalls close down, bar a few of
their number, but about the area are a number
of cafes and bars, these osetria staying open
late into the evening.
Over looking the Rialto is the church
of San Giacomo di Rialto, apparently the
oldest church in Venice. The church was
rebuilt in 1071, and now as an underused
church it is often the location for music
concerts.
Opposite the church of San Giacomo is
a stone figure of a hunchback. Carved in the
16
th
century, the figure supports a platform
from which messages of the state were read
aloud.
In the past criminals would be forced
to run the gauntlet from St Marks square to
the Gobbo, naked.
Other rumors and legends abound as to
the nature of the statue. Some claim that the
statue is an Ogre that broke a pledge to a lover,
others say that the changeling was turned to
stone so that the Rialto Islands would forever
stand above the seas and some say that the
statue is the remains of one of the Gentry.
Either way it has been ritual for the
changelings of Venice to touch the statue on
its nose when passing by.
Moving south from the Rialto, we push
deeper into San Polo and to Campo di San
Polo. The square is the second largest in
Venice. The square is overlooked by the
church of San Polo, Palazzo Soranzo, Palazzo
Corner Mocenigo and Palazzo Bernardo. San
Polo Church is a stark church that houses a
painting by Tintoretto of the Last Supper.
More unusual is the campanile which has at its
base two lions, one toying with a snake, the
other with a severed human head.
Continuing west is the Frari, a
collection of buildings holding a great many
paintings. The Frari is dominated by the
church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari.
Constructed by the Franciscan monks, they
had first built one church and then planned an
even grander one to replace it. Over a hundred
years of work, the church is visible from the
Campanile in St Marks square. Within the
church are a number of works of art by Titian,
and even the tomb of the artist, one of the few
people to ever be entombed within a church
during a plague.
Next to the Frari is the Archivio di
Stato, the state archive that houses all of the
documents of the Republic of Venice, packed
into just 300 rooms. The church of San Rocco,
and the adjacent Sucola Grande di San Rocco
contain many more of Tintorettos work, and
the Scuola acted as a mission which was
concerned with the treatment of the sick, just
as like its patron, Saint Roch.
At the far western end of the sestieri is
the public gardens of Papadopoli and finally
the church of Santa Maria Maggiore which
forms part of the city prison.
Starting at the Rialto and the markets,
Santa Croce sits to the north of San Polo,
following the curve of the Grand Canal. The
area was apparently settled by people fleeing
the Lombard invasion, or was land taken from
Benedictine monks.
The area just adjacent to the fish
market is a winding pack of workshops. The
nearby Campo San Cassiano was where the
first public opera house stood. Packed in
amongst the streets is the Ca Psaro, which
was given to the city by Felicit Bevilacqua La
Masa. She was a patron of the arts and left her
home to be a studio for artists. But instead the
palazzo became the home of the Galleria
Internazionale dArte Moderna. This museum
of modern art houses many pieces by Klimt,
Kandinsky, Matisse and Ernst. On the top
floors of the Ca Psaro is the Museo
Orientale. Now refurbished, the museum
boasts many cases of ceremonial samurai
armour, clothing, paintings, silks, swords and
many weapons.
Heading further west from the Ca
Psaro is the 17
th
century Palazzo Mocenigo, a
museum to period clothing and furnishings,
where the delicate fabrics are protected by the
curtains being closed at all times. Nearby to
the Palazzo is the deconsecrated church of San
Giovanni Descollato. The church is closed at
all times and the name means St John the
Beheaded. This church dates back to the 11
th
century and claims some of the oldest
examples of Venetian frescoes.
Further along towards the Piazzale
Roma is the Museo di Storia Naturale. The
museum contains examples of local marine life
and many dinosaurs, including a huge example
an ancient crocodile.
Continuing west from the museum
there is the church of San Giacomo dellOrio,
and then the church of San Simeone Profeta.
Near to the last of these churches is the Riva di
Biasio. Between the columns that lead from
the stretch of street to the Piazzeatte, a butcher
by the name of Biasio was decapitated for
selling human flesh as pork.
Dorsoduro lies to the south of San Polo
and follows the curve of the southern section
of the Grand Canal. Dorsoduro stretches from
Piazzale Roma in the west to Santa Maria della
Salute.
The church of Salute, meaning
salvation, was built in 1630 in thanks to the
Virgin Mary who the Venetians think saved
them from the Plague. The Salute is a huge
structure of white stone, the central chamber
illuminated by a circle of windows high in the
dome. This circle of eight windows, a Marian
star, signifies the crown of the Virgin Mary.
Meanwhile the mosaic floor has a coded
reference to Marys feast day coinciding with
the date of Venices foundation. The enormous
structure of the Salute required 100,000
wooden piles to support it and over 50 years to
complete it. Still celebrated to this day is the
feast of the Presentation of the Virgin. On the
21
st
of November the salvation of the city is
remembered.
Next to the Salute are the museum of
Seminario Patriarcale and the old customs
house Dogana di Mare. On top of the Dogana
di Mare is the figure of Fortune, standing upon
a gold ball and acts as a weather vane.
In the water right beneath the Punta
della Dogana is a hole from which a sea beast
is said to emerge on moonless nights. The
beast is said to have a head of a horse, and is
eight meters long, and almost a meter thick. It
was last seen in 1933 by fishermen who said
that the beast rose up out of the water and
swallowed a seagull.
As for the nature of the beast none are
sure. Some may think it is similar to the Loch
Ness monster or the Kraken. However a
number of changelings who have seen it think
it is one of a number of beasts, for example a
water-based hobgoblin that works for the True
Fae Commodore Fathom.
Following the Grand Canal west leads
to the church of San Gregorio where the skin
of one of Venices heroes was kept. The hero,
Marcantonio Bragadin, was skinned by the
Turks in 1571 and first laid to rest here.
Next along the way is the Ca Dario, or
the Cursed Palace. The story of the palace is
that the Giovanni Dario had an illegitimate
daughter. She married into the Barbaro family.
The Barbaro then inherited the house.
Giovanni Dario was then was expelled from
the Grand Council. Darios son-in-law lost all
their money, and Darios daughter died of a
broken heart. In the 17
th
century Giacomo
Barbaro was assassinated in Candia, and the
house was bought by an Armenian merchant.
The Armenian lost all his money and died.
Over and over owners died. Even the manager
of The Who died. The house is cursed and
haunted by the ghosts of the dead owners.
Legend has is that the lover and fiend,
Casanova, was cured at the age of eight of a
strange disease by a sorceress who closed him
a trunk and he emerged cured, a form of
magical rebirth.
Another story says that he met the
magician, the Count of Cagliostro, in the
Squero of San Trovaso in order to exchange
secrets. Apparently the Count knew the secret
of the philosophers stone and the elixir of
youth. Cagliostro was also a founder of a
group under the title of Egyptian Freemasons.
It was said the members were taught how to be
returned to the state of being before the loss of
their original sin, and live for 5557 years.
Casanova, armed with this knowledge,
may have succeeded in making the formula.
He officially died the 4
th
of June 1798, but his
tomb disappeared, and now lives in Venice.
Nearby the Ca Dario is the Peggy
Guggenheim Collection of modern art held in
the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni. Then there is the
Gallerie dellAccademia, located in an old
school of art, one of Venices most renowned
galleries. It is outside the gallery that one of
the bridges crosses over the Grand Canal.
Further west is the church of San
Trovaso, and the Squero di San Trovaso. The
Squero is named after the people that
manufactured the gondola.
Heading north from the Squero and
across the Fondamenta di Borgio is the
Ognissanti, a former Benedictine convent that
is now a hospital.
Following the Fondementa north and
crossing back over toward the Grand Canal is
the Palazzo Loredan which overlooks the
canal. Together with the Palazzo Farsetti they
now house the town hall.
Across the Rio Malpaga is the Ca
Rezzonico and the church of San Barnaba. The
parish about the church was where the noble
families would live if they had lost their
wealth. As they were prevented by law to run
shops, the nobles would sell their votes to the
other families. The Ca Rezzonico is a
museum of the work from the 18
th
century.
Just off the square outside the church of San
Barnaba is the Ponte dei Pugni. Here the rival
factions of the Nicolotti and Castellani would
fight.
Following the Grand Canal from the
Ca Rezzonico is the Ca Fscari. It was here
that Henry the III once stayed, and now is
home to the university. Across the Rio Fscari
is the Palazzo Balbi. West from the Palazzo is
the church of San Panteleone, a place
renowned for its healing abilities. The area
about it is filled with cafes and bars due to the
presence of the university nearby.
Crossing back over the canal and south
is the large square of Campo di Santa
Margherita. A true centre of Venetian life this
square is also filled with bars and cafes due to
the number of students that study nearby. The
church in the square is adorned with dragons
which relate to the story that the churchs
patron, Saint Margaret, was swallowed by a
dragon but emerged unscathed when the
dragon exploded.
Off the southwest corner of the square
is the Scuola dei Carmini and the church of
Santa Maria del Carmelo, also known simply
as the Carmini church. Following the Rio di
Santa Margherita to Rio di Crmini we come
to the Palazzo Zenobio.
On the other side of the canal is the
Fondamenta Gheradini; behind the Carmini
church an 18
th
century merchant called
Grimano Grimani called the area home. He
had spent some time in Cyprus and returned
with a servant from the island.
Both fell ill and the servant was
promised to be buried in his homeland by his
master. But of course this never happened. The
servant was buried in next to the Carmini
church, and on that night there were screams
from the servants grave. The skull was
quickly dug up and placed in the Grimani
house. The removal of the skull causes it to
scream and no one has ever removed it since,
with it still hidden in the house.
The Palazzo Zenobio was built by the
Zenobio family who were one of the
wealthiest in Venice. Now it is the Armenian
college and boasts a ballroom which is a hall
of mirrors. The hall is often used as a venue
for showcasing modern art. Next door to the
Palazzo is the chapel of Santa Maria del
Soccorso. This is where the courtesan
Veronica Franco founded a house to help
prostitutes who wanted to end their lives as
whores.
Venice to me is not just an amazing
city to visit, with some of the most gorgeous
architecture and absorbing history. No, Venice
is also a place of romance for me as I have had
the joy of visiting twice. The first time was
with my girlfriend, and we got engaged there
(a mutual engagement, I didnt get on one
knee, but instead a ritual of engagement to
each other). The second time was for my
wedding the following year, which my wife
and I dressed in period clothing for and had
performed in the Palazzo Zenobio hall of
mirrors.
So if reading this book you want to
visit then please do so. If you want to be all
romantic when you go, then go for it!
Following the canal of Rio di San
Nicolo from Zenobio is the Palazza Arian, the
church of Angelo Raffaele and the nearby
church of San Sebastiano and finally the
church of San Nicolo dei Mendicoli.
Dating from the 7
th
century the church
is one of the oldest. The church is well known
as being a location used in the film Dont Look
Now. Near to the church is a statue of the
Virgin that is crushing a serpent under foot.
The statue also has an inscription that
translates to you are very beautiful, my
friend. The story linked to this inscription is
that a young 16 year old woman called Dorina
Lotti, having only just had her birthday the
other day, was met by a woman dressed in
white while returning home. The woman just
stood and stared at Dorina. The same thing
happened for three days. The fourth day was
different. The woman spoke and said, Little
Dorina, wouldnt you like to be as beautiful as
I am? The girl was shocked that the woman
knew her name. She asked if she was a witch
but the woman said no. She said her name was
Laura, and was impressed by the young girls
faith and wanted to reward her with the secret
of beauty. To do this the girl was told that she
had to cover all the furniture in white sheets.
Then she had to undress and anoint herself
with the contents of a vial that the woman
gave her, and then light some candles. The
woman went on to tell her that she was to
leave the window open and three women
would appear dressed in white. Most
importantly the woman told Dorina not to
invoke the Virgin Mary or God, nor leave
mirrors in sight or knives.
That night Dornia did as she was told
but left a mirror uncovered. The women
arrived and asked her what she wanted. But as
Dorina answered Dorina looked at the mirror
and saw the backs of the women, covered in
hair and like that of an animal. Dorina fled in
fear and headed to the church. The woman
from the days before was in the same place as
before on the street and told Dorina to be
quiet, but Dorina saw that the woman had the
feet of a goat. Dorina exclaimed and called out
to the Virgin, and the fairy faded away. The
statue is in thanks for this act.
Cannaregio is located to the north of
the city on the other side of the Grand Canal
from Santa Croce, and stretches from the train
station in the west to church of San Giovanni
Crisostomo and the Rialto bridge.
Cannaregio is one of the quietest
districts of Venice, and remains more like a
collection of parishes. It is here that most
people will find something like authentic
Venetian life.
Starting at the train station there is the
church known as the Scalzi. The outside is
adorned with angles and white stone, while the
interior is dark and brooding. Within the
chapel lies the tomb of the last Doge of
Venice, Lodovico Manin.
The main street from the Scalzi is the
Lista di Spagna, a street overrun with tourist
shops, sweet shops and stalls selling cheap
goods. Pressing onward away from the station
is the church of San Geremia and the Palazzo
Labia. The Palazzo gets its name from the
Lasbias family who lived there and had bought
their way into nobility, a family that was
notorious for its expenditure of wealth.
Crossing over the canal from the
Palazzo we enter an area that is dominated by
the Ghetto. The Ghetto, getting its name from
the word for forge, was where all the Jews
were to live in Venice. Jews fled to Venice in
fear during the war against the League of
Cambrai. In return for being given a place to
live, the Jews helped fund Venices defenses.
At night the Jews were forced to stay in the
Ghetto, but were protected by soldiers they
had paid for.
The Jews of the city were not allowed
to have professions such as architect, and so
this led to the Jews having to employ Christian
architects to design and build their homes and
synagogues. For this reason the scole, their
synagogues, have a Christian flavor, free of
marble as this is not allowed, and decorated
inside with stucco and gold.
In 1575 the plague struck Venice, and
while it ravaged the city, in the Ghetto it killed
only the children. Confused by the selective
nature of the disease, the rabbis gathered to
conduct fasting and prayers in order to ask for
Gods forgiveness. However this was in vain.
While the leader of the rabbis, Rabbi
Sterchel, searched the books and tomes for a
solution, he was visited by the prophet Elijah.
The prophet led the rabbi to the Jewish
cemetery where they watched the ghostly
children playing.
The next day, Sterchel ordered a
disciple to go to the cemetery at night, and
while there to take the death shroud from the
ghost of one of the children. Obeying the
disciple did as he was told and returned to the
rabbi. Later that night the ghost of the child
came to the rabbi, asking for his death shroud
to be returned. But the rabbi refused, and
demanded to know why the children were
dying. The ghostly boy told Sterchel that the
reason why the children were dying of the
plague was that a mother had killed her
newborn son.
The next day the rabbi ordered the
woman and her husband to come before the
rabbis to be judged for their crime. And so
with justice served the children no longer died
of the plague.
North of the Ghetto is one of the most
modern parts of the city and the district, where
continual land reclamation has led to the
canals of the area being very angular and less
natural. To the northwest is the more attractive
area near the church of the Madonna dellOrto
and the church of SantAlvise. The church of
Sant Alvise was founded by Antonia Venier,
the daughter of the Doge Antonio Venier. She
was moved to create this church after she had
a vision of the saint.
The church of Madonna dellOrto was
originally a church dedicated Saint
Christopher as the area was once the main port
for ferrymen who traveled to the northern
isles. The name was changed after a statue of
the Madonna was found in a garden of
vegetables nearby, a statue that began to
perform miracles. The church, redecorated by
Tintoretto after insulting the doge, holds the
ashes of the painter and also those of his son
and one of his daughters.
The outside of the Madonna dellOrto
is a series of twelve niches that contain statues
of the Apostles. Legend has it that the statues
were cursed. The statues were sculpted by the
Delle Masegne. The youngest, Paolo was
devoted to the devil, and had been given one
of the silver coins of Judas which was to be
inserted into the statue of the Apostle which
had been carved to look like Judas. The statue
only needed to be consecrated, but on the day
it was to be blessed, the young woman leading
the procession on Holy Week pointed out
Paolo and declared him a Satanist. The boy
was doused in holy water and the devil left his
body. As for the statue, it is said that on the
night of Good Friday it moves and flies to
Jerusalem and goes to Akeldam, the field that
Judas bought with the silver.
Across from the church is the Campo
dei Mori, a place that possibly is named after
the Greek brothers who lived there that came
from Morea. Nearby is the Palazzo Mastelli,
which in 1757 was the centre of mysterious
spiritual events.
On Campo dei Mori there are four
statues, one of which sits just around the
corner from the others. The statues are said to
be of the Mastelli brothers, while legends say
that they are in fact the actual borthers
themselves, turned to stone as punishment for
their dishonesty and greed.
Tintoretto lived at 3399 on
Fondamenta dei Mori. It was here as a young
father he and his daughter came into contact
with a witch.
His eldest daughter was to have her
first communion, and for ten days she and
other girls of her age would receive the
eucharist each morning. However, on the first
day the girl met an old woman who convinced
the girl that if she kept the wafer at
communion and hid it, and did so for ten days,
she would be shown how to be like the
Madonna.
Tintorettos daughter did so and kept
the wafers in a metal box hidden in the manger
in the barn where Tintoretto kept pigs and a
donkey. But after 6 days the animals would
not move from the barn, kneeling in front of
the manger. His daughter confessed what had
been happening. Tintoretto was no fool.
Through his work and studies he had come
into contact with the occult and knew of the
methods employed to recruit followers.
Tintoretto took the wafers and returned
them to the church and then awaited the witch
on the tenth day, a stick of the linden tree
ready to beat the crone. He asked his daughter
to invite the witch in if she appeared. The
witch did, and when she was in the house
Tintoretto struck her with the stick, but she
soon fled, changing into a cat and then into
smoke before leaving the house through a hole
in a wall.
In order to stop the witch returning by
the same means, Tintoretto placed a statue of
Hercules on the outside of the wall, the hero
standing with club in hand.
Past the Palazzo Mastelli are the
Palazzo Minelli Spada and the Palazzo
Contarini dal Zaffo. Further east is the Scuole
della Misericordia and the Casino degli Spiriti.
The Scuola Vecchia della Misericordia
is known for the story of the old money lender
who if seen and offered help turns into a
burning skeleton. This ghost of Bartolomio
Zenni is cursed to exist this way as punishment
for not helping children flee a fire, instead
choosing to save his own belongings. The
nearby Casino degli Spiriti gains its name as it
is a rumored gathering place for restless
spirits.
Across the waters of the Sacca de la
Misericordia is the Fondamenta Nuove
Theatre. This area is avoided by fishermen as
it was here that in 1947 a smuggler, a woman
called Linda Cimetta, was stuffed in a trunk
and drowned. It is said that the squid here now
have the eyes of a woman.
It is across the lagoon from the
Fondamenta Nuova Theatre is the Venetian
island of the dead, the island of San Michele,
the cemetery of the city. The island, once a
monastery and a prison is surrounded by high
red brick walls. In times past the island acted
as shelter to those boats that were making their
way out to the northern islands. The island is
the location of the church of San Michele in
Isola, a revolutionary example of Renaissance
architecture. The island was made a cemetery
by Napoleon after it was forbidden for there to
be burials on the main Venetian islands.
Bodies lie there for ten years, after which their
bones are moved to the ossuary. However
Jewish burials take place on the Lido and so
San Michele is where all others are buried.
One denizen of the island was fra
Mauro, the most renowned cartographer of the
Medieval age. If legend is correct, the
cartographer was able to draw such maps by
capturing the dreams of the devil, seeing them
in the clouds over Venice.
The island is also filled with ghosts and
spirits, and the waters about San Michele are
no different. At night in November it is said
that the candlelight from a casket floating on
the water can be seen. This is the ghost light of
a young girl who was never buried.
South of the Ghetto is the church of
San Leonardo and the Rio Terr San
Leonardo, a former canal that was filled in by
the Austrians in 1870s. This street is filled
with more shops that cater for the visiting
tourists and day trippers. Nearby is the church
of San Marcuola, where once a priest, while at
the pulpit, claimed to not believe in ghosts. In
response that night the dead rose from their
graves and dragged the priest out to beat him.
Continuing east is the Maddalena
district, and here is the Palazzo Vendramin-
Calgeri, the place where Richard Wagner died
in 1883 and is now home to the city casino.
Further along is the Palazzo Diedo where in
1606 an astrologer claimed to have seen a
vision of gun-powder under the Sala del
Maggior Consiglio. The Council of Ten found
this but suspected the astrologer, having him
shaved and tortured to death, even as the man
claimed the stars had shown him everything.
Past the Palazzo Doria Giovanelli is the
the Strada Nova, a street that cuts through
towards the Rialto, and along the way the most
famous of palazzos, the Ca dOro.
Meaning House of Gold, the Ca dOro
is a masterpiece of Venetian Gothic
architecture and now is home to a gallery and
once boasted a faade that was once covered in
gold leaf. These days the Ca dOro is now
home to the Galleria Giogrio Franchetti.
Across the Strada Nova is the church
of Santa Sofia, and further down the street is
the church of Santi Apostoli. It is over the
campo from Santi Apostoli that the Ca da
Mosto sits on the Grand Canal. Heading south
towards the Rialto bridge is the church of San
Giovanni Crisostomo and the nearby Teatro
Malibran. Between these two buildings are
two squares named after Marco Polo, well at
least his nickname, Milione, for Marco Polo
would always talk about the millions of men
and ships and forts held by the Emperor of
China, Kubli Khan. The Teatro Malibran
contains the remains of the Polo house.
Marco Polo returned from China with a
wife, Hao Dong, one of the daughters of
Kublai Khan. Though beautiful and an
enchanting singer, she was despised by Marco
Polos family and as a foreigner and non-
Chritian, watched intensely by the Church. For
these reasons she remained in the family home
so that she did not draw attention.
When Marco was captured by the
Genoanese she was informed by her sister-in-
law that Marco had died. Distraught with grief
the Chinese princess set herself on fire and
flung herself to her death from the windows of
the Polo palace.
Now, at sunset on summer evenings
the princess can be heard singing, or even seen
floating from the windows of the Polo house,
her hands holding a blue flame as she begins
her nightly journey to the other end of the
world to be with her family.
North of Santi Apostoli is the Gesuit
region of the city, and the church of Santa
Maria Assunta. The outside of the church is
enormous and disproportionate, while the
interior is more beautiful and extravagant, the
entire interior decked in green and white
marble. For this reason the building is a huge
weight and is slowly sinking.
We will first discuss the section of the
city known as Central Castello. It is denoted
by the church of San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
to the north, Campo di Santa Maria Formosa
in the centre, and San Zaccaria to the south.
The church of San Lazzaro now sits
within the city hospital. Attached to the
hospital is the Scuola Grande di San Marco
which acts as the faade and foyer to the
hospital, a grand display and the hospital itself
is home to a number of pieces of art by
Tintoretto and Veronese. To the east of the
Scuola is the church of the Ospedaletto which
features giants heads looking down and
decoration that English art critic, Ruskin, took
a great dislike to.
Next to the Scuola is the church of
Santi Giovanni e Paolo. This gothic brick
church is known in Venetian dialect as the
church of San Zanipolo. The church was home
to a mendicant order of Dominican priests that
acquired wealth through begging amd working
to help the poor of the city.
The church itself was first built in
1246, the Doge Giacomo Tiepolo handing the
land to the priests after having a vision of
white doves marked on the head with the
cross, the flock flying over the area where the
church was to stand. Later in 1333 the church
was replaced and consecrated much later in
1430. The church itself is huge inside, and
filled with many tombs, many of the Tiepolo
family and the Mocenigo family.
On Calle della Cavallerizza, behind
San Zanipolo, every night the ghost of a doge
is seen. Here in 1355 the Doge Marin Falier
gathered his men to plot the takeover of the
State, overthrowing democracy. However, the
plot had been discovered and the Doge was
executed, beheaded on the scala dei Giganti at
the Ducal Palace. Now the ghost of a headless
corpse wanders the streets about San Zanipolo
in search of its head.
Another ghostly doge, the blind Enrico
Dandolo, the same doge who led the Fourth
Crusade to Constantinople, also walks the
streets here. His eyes are burning coals, a
sword, held by the blade in his hands so that
he may atone for the brutal sacking of
Constantinople. He is said to wail as he
searches for the ghost of Falier, his task to
punish the ghost for his attempt at usurping
power. Over time they have not met, but they
get closer and who knows what will happen
when they meet?
Some distance away another doges
spirit walks the streets. The prophetic doge,
Tommaso Mocenigo, so-called because on his
death-bed he foretold the ruin that the next
Doge, Francesco Foscari, would bring to the
city if elected. The ghostly Tommaso walks
the streets, silent, with a roll of paper pouring
from his mouth, every word printed upon it
saying Veritas. He chokes as this happens,
stumbling as his feet are caught up in the ever
growing length of paper. Tommaso is a kind
ghost to those who take the time to free his
legs.
South of San Zanipolo is campo Santa
Maria Formosa. The square hosts a food
market and is overlooked by the churchs
grand campanile which at the base has an ugly,
grotesque mask, a face that grimly leers down
on pedestrians. The critic, Ruskin, found it
disgusting, while the historian, Molmenti,
stated that the head is a talisman against evil.
From the campo Santa Maria Formosa
towards the Rialto is the church San Lio and
Santa Maria dell Fava. Heading towards these
churches are many sweet shops, selling typical
Venetian sweets and pastries.
South of campo Santa Maria Formosa
are a number of the most opulent houses in
Venice; the massive palazzo Grimani, the
palazzo Trevisan-Cappello, the crumbling
deconsecrated church of San Giovanni in
Oleo, the gothic palazzo Zorzi-Bon and the
palazzo Zorzi, and the palazzo Querini-
Stampalia which houses a eclectic collection
of art.
To the southwest corner of Central
Castello are the churches of San Zaccaria and
San Giorgio dei Greci. The convent attached to
San Zaccaria was infamous for the sexual
relations of the nuns, many of whom had been
sent there for being troublesome or because
their fathers were unable to pay a dowry. In
fact the convent became one of the most
important salons of the city.
From the Ducal Palace, running along
the lagoon edge to the entrance to the canal
before the Arsenale is the Riva degli
Schiavoni. A promenade that is heaving with
tourists and souvenir merchants, the Riva
gives a view of the southern lagoon. Along
this route is the Hotel Danieli, a favorite place
to stay for the movie actors that arrive in
Venice for the film festival. Along the Riva,
marking the end of Central Castello is the
Piet. It is here at the orphanage that Vivaldi
worked on many pieces and worked as
choirmaster. Many parents of the time
attempted to get their children into the
orphanage, such was their need for their
children to be trained in this prestigious
school.
Eastern Castello is dominated by the
shipyards called the Arsenale. Between central
Castello and the Arsenale is the church of San
Francesco della Vigna. Though the area about
it is rather run down this is the spot, if legend
is to believed, that Saint Mark was visited by
an angel who told him that these islands would
be his final resting place. The area remained a
vineyard until 1253 when the Franciscans were
given the land to build a new church.
South of San Francesco della Vigna is
the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni.
This sculoa was built for the Slavic population
of Venice. By the mid-fifteenth century the
Slavs were no longer slaves of the city but
citizens so the scuola was to represent their
people.
Further south is the church of San
Giovanni in Brgora. The church is renowned
for being the location of the baptism of
Vivaldi. Dating from 1475 the building is
gothic and shows no sign of the Renaissance
architecture that had begun at about the same
time.
Near to the campo where San Giovanni
in Brgora sits is the infamous dark alley, the
calle della Morte, the Street of Death. It is here
that the Council of Ten had their unofficial
executions carried out. The typical recipients
of their judgment were those who were
considered dangerous to the state.
Behind the church of San Giovanni in
Brgora is the street called sotoportego dei
Pretti. Here as you walk along look up and you
will find an arch with a brick heart at the top.
If touched by two lovers they are destined to
be together forever.
If alone, the person can make a wish
and if made with a true heart, they will find
love within the year.
East from the San Giovanni in Brgora
is the church of San Martino. Founded by
Paduan refugees in 593, the church is one of
the oldest in Venice. Of course one of the
grandest sights from the church are the walls
of the Arsenale.
The Arsenale was one of the first
factories in the world, producing numerous
ships a week. The Arsenale dominates Eastern
Castello, the huge red brick walls looming
over the houses of the islands. The Arsenal is
most famously seen in paintings and is the
inspiration for a passage of the Inferno by the
poet Dante.
The Arsenale was created in the early
12
th
century as the area of the city was turned
to the task of ship fabrication and repair. The
Arsenale grew over the years and was the one
location in all the state where ships were
made. At its height the Arsenale employed
16,000 men. After the rounding of the Cape of
Good Hope the number of ships registered at
the Arsenale was halved. The arrival of
Napoleon marked the end of the Arsenale, the
docks were burned to the ground and the
remainder of the Venetian fleet was
confiscated. The Arsenale was reconstructed
by Napoleon and was used up to the end of
WWI when it was finally closed.
In modern times the Arsenale is open
during the Biennale only. It also now acts as a
marine research centre funded by the EU, with
further plans to modernize the buildings and
docks.
After two nights of bad weather in
November 1719, mangled bodies began
turning up. There were the bodies of two
sailors, one Greek and a Maltese, their bodies
found outside the entrance of the Arsenale.
There was no apparent reason for their deaths
or connection between the men. Even stranger
was that the sailors appeared to have been
killed by wild animals. After much speculation
blame was laid upon the lions of the Arsenale,
the four statues that sat proudly outside the
entrance to the docks. It had to be magic.
Another bad spell of weather happened
six nights later, and another body was found in
a crumpled mess. This sailor shared a home
nearby with his young wife, both local
Venetians. A young captain was assigned to
the case. A couple of days later the young
widow, a known prostitute, stood outside a tall
house yelling Murderer! to a man, an old
merchant, called Fosco. The widow was livid
and was soon dragged away. Fosco came to
the window and replied to her cries. Well
see, woman, where your boldness will take
you, just wait till the next stormy night! The
captain took note of this. The captain knew
that the old man never left his home so he
instead followed the widow. The woman, now
hard up having lost her husband, now took to
the streets more often with a friend, selling her
body. Another storm hit 10 days later, and the
young captain hid in a boat near the Arsenale
entrance. In the dead of night, under torrential
rain, a stream of fire rose from the houses
nearby and from it the old man appeared
before the lions. First he cast a spell, freezing
the guards in place, and then Fosco read the
inscriptions on the lion, running his bony
finger over their forms. At the apex of the gate
to the Arsenale a globe of energy formed and
from it lighting sprung out and touched the
first lion. The statue was transmogrified into a
bloodthirsty animal and attacked the widow
and her friend.
The captain, overcoming his fear,
attacked the merchant, this wizard, but now
the second lion was alive and moving to attack
the widow. The captain struck Fosco and his
sword plunged into the old mans chest. With
a flash the lions were immobile and the
captains sword was blackened. The wizard
was gone, but there was a stone heart on the
ground. The guards awoke and rushed to the
aid of the women, and the captain seeing that
the third lion was half alive, decapitate the
beast. The head did not simply fall away, but
rose into the air and exploded.
The reason for this death was put down
to the widows dead husband swindling the
merchant. The other men were just decoys.
The head of the third lion was replaced. Of
course it is easy to check which of the lions is
the third. To this day the inscription on the
lions is still visible, if not worn, and is
supposedly the runic graffiti of a Norse
mercenary.
Near to the Arsenale are the Museo
Storico Navale and the church of San Biagio.
The museum is located in an old granary and
houses the numerous documents that detail the
history of the Venetian navy. One curious item
here is a manned torpedo.
The church of San Biagio served the
local Greeks and as a naval chapel, but is
rarely used.
Past the Arsenale is the main street of
Eastern Castello, Via Garibaldi, a former
canal. This street is lined with shops, bars,
cafes and restaurants. Following the street to
the end and keeping right takes you to the
island of San Pietro.
The church formerly known as Castello
after the castle that once stood in the same
spot. The church was the home of the first
patriarch of Venice, and the church remained
as the cathedral of the city until 1807.
The island is the site of the Festival of
Marys. Slave pirates interrupted a multiple
marriage and stole away the brides. Venetian
men succeeded in bringing back the brides and
the festival celebrates this with weddings of
two women from each district of Venice.
A strange relic of the church is the
Throne of St Peter. This marble seat is 13
th
century and inscribed in Arabic with text from
the Koran.
Along the Via Garibaldi are the public
gardens, in particular the Giardini Pubblici and
the adjoining gardens that are used for the
Biennale arts festival.
On the eastern side of the Grand Canal,
sitting to the south of Cannaregio and the east
of Castello is the sestiere of San Marco. The
region is the centre of Venice. The district is
dominated by the Piazza San Marco where the
Palazzo Ducale and the Basilica di San Marco
stand.
The Piazza lies to the southeast corner
of the district. It is bordered by the Palazzo,
the Basilica, the Procuratie Vecchie,
Procuratie Nuove and the Libreria
Sansoviniana.
The first Palazzo Ducale was built in
the 9
th
century, and in the 12
th
century the rest
of the land was made available as a public
space, with canals redirected and removed.
The piazza in general hasnt changed since the
12
th
century save for the buildings that now
stand on square. The piazza is a nexus for the
tourist trade of Venice. In the past the area was
used for markets, moneylenders, the slave
trade, and a variety of stalls. These days things
are not much different. The large open space is
often filled with tourist groups taking photos,
purchasing gifts from the shops that look out
onto the square, enjoying coffee shops, and
feeding the thousands of pigeons whose
presence is seen as more of a problem as their
droppings damage the fine buildings that make
up the piazza. Notable places to drink while in
the piazza are the Florian, an 18
th
century tea
house that once used to be a salon, the art in
the house still reflecting this past trade; the
Quadri and the Lavena. Thus even in modern
times the Piazza San Marco is a focal point of
Venetian trade, life and festivities.
The Basilica di San Marco looms over
the piazza, the domes of the Basilica
dominating skyline. The Basilica is
representative of the Venetian goal of having
their city blessed by God. Their actions were
in order to bring about an ancient prophecy
and make the words of an angel come to pass.
The Basilica was consecrated in 832
and reflects a mixture of western and
Byzantine design. However the current
Basilica is the third to have been built on this
spot. These reconstructions have allowed for
numerous different styles and pieces of art to
be incorporated into the building, items that
have been stolen from across the world.
Initially the Basilica was just the Doges
personal chapel, but now it serves as the
cathedral of Venice.
The outside of the Basilica is
characterized by the Byzantine domes and
arches. However, these eastern features are
accompanied with 17
th
-19
th
century mosaics,
gothic arches and the Tetrarchs, the four giant
bronze horses of San Marco. Legend has it that
the horses once had rubies for eyes, but these
were lost when the horses were taken to
France. As a result, these horses now are said
to move, searching the piazza for their lost
eyes, and now with electric lighting, the horses
no longer move. But the original horses now
sit within Museo Marciano, while those on top
of the Basilica are fakes.
Other notable items that adorn the
Basilica are the two square columns from Acri.
These columns are covered in Egyptian and
Syrian monograms. Deciphered, two read A
God supreme, ultimate, maximum, benefactor
and To God advocate and saviour. Another
is still legible while another is lost to time.
Within the Basilica there are numerous
points of interest, including a number of tombs
of dead doges, the many mosaics that decorate
the interior of the domes and ceilings, and the
collection of artifacts taken from around the
world. The inside of this cathedral is unlike
any Catholic church and is more like an
eastern mosque. The remains of Saint Mark
were more than likely destroyed, immolated
during the fire of 976, but there is the golden
altar screen, the Pala dOro, a dramatic piece
that has grown and been added to over the
years, especially to include the jewels taken
during the 4
th
crusade.
If the altar screen is a mass of jewels
then the treasury is just as eclectic, hosting a
large collection of chalices, icons and works of
silver and gold. Most was taken from
Constantinople during the 4
th
crusade, but then
a lot was lost when the French invaded during
the 18
th
century.
If you really want to know the Basilica
and the Palazzo inside out, it is suggested that
you go online or pick up a reference book or
guide book. There is just far too much to list
here, but every piece of art, every item, every
sculpture, could be a story hook just waiting to
happen.
The Palazzo Ducale, just like the
Basilica, is not the first building to stand in its
spot. The first was built in the 9
th
century and
destroyed by fire in 976. The second was also
ruined by a fire in 1106. The third was finished
in 10 years and underwent further extensions
and alteration over the following centuries.
The Palazzo Ducale is a mixture of eastern and
gothic styles, bearing striking geometrically-
patterned stonework on the exterior, with a
more Classically styled central courtyard. The
central courtyard is dominated by the Scala dei
Giganti. This enormous staircase is watched
over by the Classical figures of Neptune and
Mars.
The Palazzo itself was the centre of the
Venetian Empire. It served as palace,
administration centre and prison. Like the
Basilica, the Palazzo is filled with art and
artifacts and today is open to the public as a
museum displaying the art and weapons of the
Venetian Empire. The most notable room
within the entire palace is the Sala del Senato,
where the painting on the ceiling by Tintoretto
shows Venice, depicted as a woman, sits as an
equal amongst the gods and angels. Within the
armory are curious items like a pronged
chastity belt, guns that were also swords or
maces, armor and swords taken from around
the world, and even a twenty-barrelled gun.
The prisons lie across from the palace
on the other side of a canal. Going through the
appeal court the prisons are reached crossing
the Ponte dei Sospiri, the Bridge of Sighs.
The name comes from the sighs made by the
prisoners as they cross the bridge from the
palace to the prison.
The Piazzetta lies between the Palazzo
and the Libreria Sansoviniana. It runs from the
Basilica and the Campanile and leads down
onto the waterfront overlooking the lagoon. It
was here that councilors of the Republic would
meet, and it was also where public executions
took place. The typical location was between
the two granite pillars on the stretch of water
front called the Molo. There were supposed to
be three of these columns but the first fell from
the boat that carried them. Atop one of the
columns is a statue of St Theodore, the patron
saint of Venice during Byzantine rule, and the
other column carries a statue of a winged lion.
The Campanile bell tower was
originally a lighthouse and bell tower
combined, constructed in the 10
th
century. It is
the tallest building in Venice and from it the
Dolomite mountains can be seen. The bells of
the tower each had a specific function, rung to
denote the start of a particular part of the day.
The Campanile also played a part in the penal
system, with prisoners hung from the south
face in a crate. However, in 1902 on July the
14
th
the Campanile collapsed. The collapse
was expected and so only a cat died. More
miraculous was that the Campanile fell in a
controlled manner and the nearby buildings
escaped with only minor damage. Ten years
later the Campanile was reopened, rebuilt
exactly as it was. To the north end of the
Piazza, next to the Basilica is the Torre
dellOrologio, a clock tower built at the end of
the 15
th
century. Legend has it that the
designers had their eyes taken out to prevent
them from making another such clock.
The Procuratie Vecchie sits to the west
of the clock tower. This building was once
home to part of the Venice administration,
with the upper levels being given over as
apartments to the nobles of the city. New
buildings were established for the
administration, the Procuratie Nuove, now
home to the Museo Correr. These new offices,
first built by Scamozzi, but then under the
leadership of Longhena. The two buildings
were then connected when Napoleons stepson
demolished the church that sat in the west
wing of the square, just so that a ballroom
could be built to connect the two.
The Museuo Correr has existed since
1923 and is not the most popular of museums,
but contains numerous paintings and examples
of Venetian life. Maybe one of the more
curious items on display is a key that was
capable of firing poison darts.
The attached Museo Archeologico
collection is predominantly made up of statues
of Greek and Roman origin. The collection
also consists of coins, gems, statue fragments
and pieces from other ancient civilizations.
The rest of the Correr consists of more
paintings of Venetian life, ceramics, and the
Museo del Risorgimento, a collection detailing
the fall of Venice to Napoleon and the
occupation by the Austrians.
Adjacent to the Molo, looking out onto
the lagoon, is the Zecca and the Giardinetti
Reali. The Zecca once served as the mint for
the Venetian Republic. This building was
constructed in the mid 16
th
century and was
designed to be fireproof. The funds for the
construction were gathered by selling the
Cypriot slaves their freedom. It is from the
word Zecca, that the other name for the
Venetian coin, the ducat, was derived, the
zecchino. The gardens next door, the
Giardinetti Reali were once the site of the state
granaries and now is one of the most popular
spots during the height of summer.
Heading north under the Torre
dellOrologio is the area known as the
Mercerie, a section of the city that is crammed
with shops and in essence the shopping mall of
Venice, it is also the most busy part of the city
and the part that is so commercial that the very
essence of Venice is missing. But, if you
follow your way north to the Rialto bridge past
the shops and busy stalls the square of Campo
San Bartolomeo can be found, a popular spot
for the locals of the city to spend the evening
after work. Nearby, past the church of San
Salvador are Campo San Luca and the bar, Al
Volto. The Al Volto is one of the most popular
and well-stocked bars in Venice and hosts
some 1300 wines from all over Italy.
Heading north and right from the
church of San Salvador is the Campo San
Bartolomeo. The church has been recently
renovated, and now the church plays host to
musicians for their recitals.
Rather than heading north from the
Rialto bridge, heading south, following the
Grand Canal, there is the Teatro Goldoni, and
further on the Palazzo Loredan, the Palazzo
Farsetti, both of which now are home to the
town hall of the city. Behind these buildings is
the church of San Luca and the Campo San
Luca. The square is a frequent open-air spot
for locals, as well as market traders.
Heading back towards San Marco is
Campo Manin and the Frezzeria. The Campo
Manin is modern and was where a printing
press once stood, and has a monument to
Daniele Manin, a lawyer who in 1848 led a
revolt against the Austrians. A notable piece of
architecture is the Scala del Bovolo. This
spiral staircase is named after the Italian word
for snail shell.
Continuing south down the Grand
Canal from the town hall are the Palazzos
Grimani, Corner Spinelli, Mocengio and the
church of San Benedetto. Near to San
Benedetto is the Museo Fortuny, another
former palazzo. The Palazzo Mocenigo is the
location where Byron stayed and indulged in a
number of affairs, and it is also rumored to be
haunted by the alchemist Giordano Bruno.
From the Piazza San Marco and
heading west to the canal to the Pazzo
Mocenigo, we pass another large shopping
district and a number of exclusive bars and
hotels. There are also the churches of San
Moise and Santa Maria del Giglio. San Moise
is known as the most ugly church in Venice. In
comparison, the church of Santa Maria del
Giglio is far more beautiful and features a
number of pieces of art and religious artifacts.
North of Santa Maria Giglio is campo
San Fantin, the church of San Fantin, and the
theatre La Fenice, and the eclectic museum the
Ateneo Veneto. The main site of importance is
the theatre, which lives up to its name of
Phoenix. Over the centuries it has been
rebuilt after being consumed by fires, the most
recent taking place in 1996. These days the
theatre is the location of major musical events.
Further westward is the large campo
Santo Stefano. The church sits at the north end
of the square. As a large space it often plays
host to festivals and event and often held bull
fights until 1802. Also facing onto this large
space is the Palazzo Loredan. At the other side
of the campo is the campiello Pisani which is
encompassed by the Palazzo Pisani, which is
one of the largest houses and now acts as the
city Conservatory of Music.
Finally if we follow the Grand Canal
from the Palazzo Mocenigo are the Palazzo
Grassi, the Cadel Duca, the Palazzo
Franchetti and the Palazzo della CaGrande.
The Grassi is host to a large collection of
modern art, owned by the French collector
Pinault. Possibly one of the most impressive
sights is the Ponte dell Accademia. This
wooden bridge was to be just a temporary
replacement for the grim iron bridge that was
built by the Austrians.
Venice is predominantly known for the
main island and its network of canals.
However, about Venice are a number of
smaller islands that are also important sites of
historical interest and also play a major part in
modern Venetian society.
San Michele lies a short distance from
Venice to the north and is the city cemetery.
Originally known as the island of San
Christoforo della Pace it was chosen as the
location of the city cemetery by Napoleonic
edict. The reason was sanitation, in order to
prevent the spread of disease which can occur
if bodies are kept on the main island. The
island is in fact two islands that have been
connected together, the other being the island
of San Michele, which was formerly known as
Cavana de Muran, the name referencing the
fact that the island offered shelter to those
boatmen who were travelling to and from
Murano.
The island is a surrounded on all sides
by high walls, and within is the church of San
Michele in Isola. The cemetery itself is home
to the Catholic dead of Venice, packed
together. After ten years the graves are dug up
and the bones moved to the ossuary and the
plot is then available to more recent dead.
One of the residents of the island was
Fra Mauro. The priest was a skilled map-
maker, and people did not know how it was
possible for him to draw maps of lands that he
had not visited himself. Legend has it that the
priest was able to read the dreams of the devil.
His skill, if legend is to be believed, was to be
able to project the devils dreams onto the
skies above the island, the maps forming in the
clouds.
Murano, further north of Venice, just
beyond San Michele, is well known for the
fine glass that is blown there. In the past the
noble elite of Venice would retreat to the
island in the summer, taking advantage of the
larger open spaces. It was also home to a
renowned accademie, and here the sciences,
arts, philosophy, religion, occult and literature
were discussed.
The glass from Murano was famous all
over the world, and even today tourists flock
to the islands to watch the manufacturing
process. In 1291 all glass blowing was moved
from central Venice to the island in order to
prevent fires from consuming the city. Such
was the importance of Murano glass, the
Venetian government attempted to prevent the
secrets of the art from leaving the island, with
those glass-blowers that left being called
traitors.
The island is home to a number of
attractions; churches and palazzos which boast
their own pieces of art and historical
collections.
Burano sits next the quiet island of
Mazzorbo. Once Mazzorbo was the location
where disgraced nobles would be sent to live.
Mazzorbo can be reached from Burano by a
long foot bridge.
Burano, on the other hand, has a small
settlement of brightly colored houses. The
colors, if it is to be believed, allowed sailors to
spot their home from the sea.
Burano is also well known for its lace.
Lace is what the sailors wives made while
their husbands were at sea.
Torcello was one of the first islands to
be settled and as a result boasts some of the
oldest buildings and the oldest church in the
lagoon. Now, compared to the other islands, it
is practically deserted save for the tourists that
come in the summer months. One strange
feature in Torcello is the chair of Attila, a seat
which the town judges sat in and that legend
says that if you sit in it you will be wed within
the year.
This island served the purpose of
controlling the travelers arriving in Venice, in
particular to route out the plague infected.
While the sick and their belongings were sent
south of Venice to Lazzaretto Vecchi, the
healthy crew of a ship were held in quarantine
on Nuovo. These days the island is quiet,
empty save for a warehouse which lies
abandoned, and the island still is surrounded
by the fortifications erected during the
Napoleonic period.
This small island just a few hundred
meters south from the Piazza San Marco is the
site of the church of San Giogio Maggiore.
The church is enormous, taking 45 years to
build, and has its own towering campanile
which gives a grander view of the city
compared to the San Marco Campanile. The
church boasts a number of paintings, a few
examples by Titian. The island is also home to
a monastry, with the area also being used as an
open air theatre.
Running from San Giorgio Maggiore
and sweeping west, just south of Dorsoduro,
the collection of islands, La Giudecca, once
was home to the Jewish population until their
removal to the Ghetto. The islands were once a
place where the nobles of the city spent their
summers. For this reason La Giudecca has a
number of fine gardens. The islands also were
once an industrial centre of the city, but in
modern times these workshops and factories
lie abandoned. However, the area is being
slowly regenerated as old mills and
warehouses are turned into modern homes.
The lido is a long stretch of land that is
one of the barriers between the Adriatic and
the Venetian Lagoon. It is here that the doge
would have performed his ritual marriage to
the sea (see page XXX). The Lido was
undeveloped until the 19
th
century, with the
land becoming a bathing resort, and now is
one of the most luxurious and expensive
resorts in the world. Now numerous flashy
hotels line the Lido.
One important site and event that takes
place on the Lido in modern times is the
Venice Film Festival which takes place at the
Palazzo del Cinema. The Lido is also the
location of the Jewish cemetery, and nearby
the Lido airstrip.
Poveglia, a small island south of
Venice, once was where plague victims were
taken by the Romans and was routinely used
by the Venetians as a hospital island and
plague pit. It is estimated that 160,000 people
died on the island. More disturbing is that in
1922 the island was a mental hospital, and
rumor states that a doctor there began to kill
patients and died after being thrown from the
bell tower. But the same legend states that he
survived the fall only to be strangled by a mist
that came up from the ground. Today the
island is a vineyard and of course is said to be
haunted.
Chioggia sitting to the south of the
Venetian Lagoon was once a Roman port and
a salt producing town, the town was of
strategic importance, and today is the second
largest settlement in the lagoon and an
important fishing port. Chioggia claims as
good beaches and food as the Lido, but only at
a fraction of the cost, making it an ideal choice
for those that want the feel of the Lido without
being movie stars.
Another curious island is San Lazzaro
degli Armeni, which lies just to the north of
the Lido, and near to Lazzaretto Vecchio. This
island was used as a leper colony in the late
12
th
century, and so is named Lazzaro after
Lazarus, the patron saint of lepers. The island
has a library which has a collection of strange
items, such as a mummy from Egypt, a throne
of ivory an teak from Dehli, a Sanskrit
Buddhist manuscript and many more items
from around the world.
Venice sits in the region of Italy known
as the Veneto. This area is bordered to the
north by Austria and the Dolomite mountain
range. It is here that many wealthy Italians go
skiing during the winter months. To the south
lies the city of Ferrara, and to the west is
Mantova and Milan. The other key towns and
cities of the Veneto are the industrial
nightmare of Mestre, the university town of
Padua, the modern and wealthy city of
Vicenza, the historic and Shakespearian
Verona, and the medieval city of Treviso.
Mestre sits at the other end of the
bridge connecting Venice to the mainland.
Because of the cost of living in Venice is so
expensive, Mestre, and its neighbouring town
of Marghera, boast far larger populations.
After WWI both towns became important
industrial centres, and grew in importance
under the command of Mussolinis
government. Of course this meant that during
WWII both towns were of strategic importance
and targets for the Allied forces.
The presence of these two industrial
centres meant that the younger population of
the Venice lagoon moved to the towns and the
average age on the islands increased, further
propagating Venices slow decline and
decrease in numbers of native Venetians. But
more drastic has been the pollution and
ecological problems that these towns have
created in the lagoon. The large chemical
refineries, that create the labyrinthine maze of
pipes and lights seen from above when flying
to Marco Polo Airport, have pumped out
untreated waste into the lagoon, damaging the
ecosystem and thus the livelihoods of the local
fishermen. This pollution came to the attention
of the world when people in gondolers were
forced to wear face masks. Since 1988 the
Italian government has implemented a number
of initiatives to undo the damage.
Another consequence of the intense
industrialization of the two towns has been
subsidence. Water was drawn from beneath
the lagoon causing subsidence, and the
catastrophe was averted when in 1973 water
was pumped back in beneath the lagoon.
What cannot be stressed enough is that
these two towns are modern and urban
nightmares. Crisscrossed with pipelines,
motorways, rail lines, the two towns are bleak
and depressing.
Padua is a medieval university city that
lies south west of Venice, just near the river
Brenta. Along this river many Venetians in
centuries past would have had villas as their
summer retreats.
Padua was restored after WWII and is
one of the key focal points of culture in
northern Italy. The city dates back to 1185 BC,
and is said to have been founded by Antenor
of Troy. It survived the invasion of the
barbarians after the fall of Rome. The
university was founded in 1221, and in 1405
the city was taken over by the Venetian
Republic and was in turn given to the
Austrians after Napoleons invasion.
Paduas renown for culture can be
attributed to artists and scholars such as Dante,
Petrarch, Donatello and Galileo.
There are many points of interest in
Padua. The university itself is situated in the
Palazzo del B. The university also boasts the
first permanent anatomy theatre and that it
once enjoyed the prestige of having Galileo
lecturing physics. There are many fine
townhouses and villas centered around the two
main squares; the Piazza della Frutta and the
Piazza della Erbe. Both of these market
squares are busy and are lined with cafes,
shops and bars. Of course Padua also has
many historic churches and museum filled
with art, in particular the Basilica del Santo.
Just south of Padua are two other
medieval sites. The first is Monslice, a
fortress which only retains its towers, the five
concentric walls having been demolished in
the 19
th
century for their stone. The second is
Montagnana, another medieval fortress and tha
was once the first line of defense for the Da
Carrara family against the Scaligeri family.
Between these two medieval forts is
the town of Este, which is well known for its
ceramics and claims to be the oldest town in
the Veneto. This claim of age is backed up by
large numbers of pre-Roman artifacts.
West of Padua is Vicenza, a very
modern city, the centre of Italian textile
production and is also the Italian Silicon
Valley.
Vicenza has many buildings that mirror
the design of those found in Venice. Before it
was taken by the Venetian Republic,
Vicenzas main rival was Verona. Vicenza is
surrounded by industrial estates, but at the
heart are the remains of a ancient town, still
partly circled by Gothic medieval walls.
Vicenza is one of the wealthiest cities
in Italy, and this is reflected in the culture and
the people themselves, the population being
some of the most stylish outside of Milan.
In the heart of Vicenza is one of the
oldest clock towers in Italy, the Torre di
Piazza. Near to this tower, over-looking the
Piazza dellErbe is the Torre del Tormento,
which was what is was named, a prison. What
is most striking is the style of many of the
citys buildings, most of which were designed
by Pallido, who followed classical designs
instead of following Venetians trends.
Notable works are the Basilica, the Teatro
Olimpico, and the Palazzo dei Signori.
Verona is ancient, and so obviously, at
its centre is the massive Roman arena, the
amphitheatre and the large number of
medieval buildings that still stand. Verona is
obviously famous in its own right; in particular
it is the location where Shakespeares Romeo
and Juliet is set. But Verona can also be seen
as an example of how Venice could have
looked if the city had not been left to rot.
Verona sits further west of Vicenza and
was an important Roman site as it sat between
the west and east of northern Italy and Europe.
After the fall of Rome Verona was controlled
by Ostrogoths, then Franks, and it grew into a
powerful independent state before it became
part of the Venetian Republic in 1405. Before
then Verona had taken control of Vicenza,
Padua and Treviso, dominating the mainland.
Following the invasion of Napoleon, Verona
was given over to the Austrians and Verona
eclipsed Venice in importance.
Unlike many of the other cities, Verona
is far calmer and the centre of the city is
pedestrianized. The centre of the city is
encircled by medieval walls, of which one is
the grand Portoni dell Br. Beyond these
arches is the main city square and the Roman
arena. The Arena dates to the first century AD
and has survived earthquakes. These days the
arena is used for open air concerts and shows.
West of the arena is Castelvecchio, a
fortress that was built during the 14
th
century
before the rule of Venice. The fort now is the
city museum and holds a collection of art,
weapons and sculptures.
The cultural centre of Verona is the
Piazza delle Erbe, a square filled with shops
and bars, bordered by medieval and
Renaissance palazzo. The Casa Mazzanti looks
upon the square, and to this day still bears the
16
th
century murals. Nearby the square are the
towers of Torre del Gardello and the Torre dei
Lamberti. Leading from the Piazza delle Erbe
is the Arco della Costa. The arch of the rib,
from which a whale rib hangs, has a
superstition attached which says that if an
adult virgin walks beneath the arch the rib will
fall. However, this rib may well not be a whale
rib, and instead be from a dinosaur.
Beyond the arch is the Piazza dei
Signori, also known as Piazza Dante for the
statue of the poet that stands in the square. The
square was the location where city decrees
were read out but these days now stands quiet.
Verona has impressive churches and
cathedrals. The largest are the church of
SantAnastasia, a tall and imposing Gothic
building, and the Duomo. The Duomo,
destroyed by the Nazis in 1945, was rebuilt
from the original stones. The building has been
in a state of constant construction and so
changes in style as you move up the building.
The northern end of the city centre is
marked by the curve of the River Adige.
Across the river to the north of SantAnastasia
is the Teatro Romano, a Roman amphiteatre
which is still used today for concerts. Up the
steep steps to the side of the amphitheatre is
the Castel San Pietro. The castle is an Austrian
addition. The building is grim and a
replacement for the old Visconti castle; the
castle offers a panoramic view of the city.
Of course we have to mention Romeo
and Juliet. Near to the Piazza delle Erbe is the
Casa di Giulietta, a courtyard where it is
claimed that the story took place. Of course
this is all unfounded, and the walls of the
courtyard are covered in graffiti from lovers.
The courtyard is also host to a bronze statue of
Juliet. The right breast of the statue is highly
polished, smoothed by the constant grip of
hands upon it, as holding the breast is said to
give a person good luck in seeking love.
North of Mestre is the city of Treviso,
and onward are the mountains of the
Dolomites. The northern Veneto is also dotted
with impressive forts and villas. Before
Treviso was taken over the Venetian Republic,
the city was already important, minting its
own coins and attracting poets and artists. But
in 1389 Treviso fell under Venetian control.
The centre of Treviso is characterized
by the network of canals that cut through the
city and the fresco adorned buildings with long
porticoes that cover the sidewalks. The city
centre is then surrounded by canals and the
city walls and the River Sile. The city centre is
also a compromise of modern and Gothic
architecture, the city having suffered terrible
bombardment during WWII. Many of the
impressive buildings about the city social
centre, the Piazza dei Signori, had to be
reconstructed. Many of the frescos and
paintings in the churches and palazzi of the
city are the work of Tomaso da Modena who
lived during the 14
th
century. The fish market
of the city, the Pescheria, is located on a island
in the middle of the widest canal, it being the
law to have the market near to a waterway.
The Castelfranco Veneto lies to the
west of Treviso. Five towers of the moated
fortress still stand, with one tower, known as
the Torrione, housing a clock. The fortress
houses the work of the artist Giorgione, the
piece being the Castelfranco Madonna. The
painting is curious, using unusual techniques.
Another historical site is Cittadella,
which lies next to Castelfranco Veneto.
Cittadella remains untouched - a fortified town
with four gates at the cardinal points. The one
gate, the Porta Padova, sits next to the
ominous tower the Torre di Malta, a former
prison and dungeon.
Other important towns to the north of
Venice are Bassano del Grappa, renowned for
it grappa distilleries and mushrooms, and the
grand Monte Grappa and the curious town of
Marstica where the central town square is a
giant chess board where every other
September the Partita a Scacchi, a chess game
using human pieces, is played.
Venice is the fifth most expensive city
to rent an apartment in Italy. Compared to
other cities in the region, Venice is far busier
and this causes more stress on those who live
in Venice. 12 million tourists visit the city
each year, and so the economy of the city is
focused upon taking advantage of this tourism.
Of course it is not surprising why those that
live in the city feel oppressed and invaded.
This has an influence on the cost of living,
making Venice the fourth most expensive city
to live in. The cost of living makes life
difficult for the youth of Venice. It is almost
impossible to buy a first home in Venice. Most
housing is occupied in Venice, but almost a
third is used by short-term residents who are
seeking to stay in the city for a less than a
month. This has pushed the price of housing
up to prices far out of reach of natives to the
city. In an effort to curb this trend, the
government has introduced housing zones
where rent is capped and residents are
provided tax breaks so long as certain
regulations are followed. The job market is not
much better. Most young Venetians leave the
city and seek better opportunities elsewhere. It
is due to this that Venice has an aging
population.
A typical Venetian family is a large
group, where the grandparents are looked after
by their children who have moved back to live
in the traditional family home. Children
remain with their parents until they are
married, and so a Venetian home can be very
tightly packed.
The main focus of family life is the
Sunday meal, where the family and relatives
gather together. It is also very common for a
family to remain in the same district of
Venice, and so the local communities are
tightly knit.
One of the defining features of Venice
is the need to walk to get to somewhere. The
lack of transport, especially cars, creates a
unique Venetian lifestyle. Walking around
means that you are more than likely to bump
into someone you know. It is this lifestyle of
random encounters that makes Venice so
relaxed for the residents. If you meet someone
along the way, you can pause for a few
moments and have a chat before continuing
on. This also means that you are more than
likely to meet new people as you chance upon
you friends and their own friends. This makes
Venice a very social city. It also means that the
entire lack of cars makes Venice laid back. No
one is rushing about, stuck in a car and getting
frustrated in a traffic jam. Your pace is
determined on how quickly you want to walk.
Venice is a quiet city, and has no real
nightlife to speak of. If seeking such
distractions its typical for young Venetians to
go to Mestre and the mainland. This lack of
night life makes Venice ideal for young
families who seek to raise their children in a
pleasant and calm city. In fact Venice is a city
of opposites for its youth. It has the excellent
university, but no jobs for those who leave. It
has a unique and exciting environment that
nurtures a social community, but of course not
the exciting night life that young professionals
and students enjoy. Venice is a place to learn
and then leave. A sign of this disharmony is
the amount of graffiti that covers the back
alley walls of Venice.
The community life is a strong feature
of the lifestyle of the older Venetians. Most
older Venetians have lived in Venice all their
lives while some have returned after following
a career elsewhere in Italy or the world. Of
course one of the major challenges for the
elderly of Venice is mobility. Venice is all
about walking, bridges and boats, all of which
become difficult for the elderly and infirm.
However, a good proportion of the elderly
population has attribute this need to walk as
being a positive influence on their health.
Those elderly Venetians that require more
intensive care are looked after by Batandi.
These individuals are nurses who are often of
Eastern European descent.
Venice is geared towards offering
everything it can to the tourists that pour into
the city. But this means that true Venetian life
must be located off the main street.
The Venetian social life is
distinguished by the bcaro. These bars open
out onto the streets, allowing patrons to stand
and chat on the streets while they drink wine
and Campari, and serving a selection of
snacks. Osterie are larger establishments
which have a dining area of a few tables. Of
course larger places are restaurants, which in
Venice have two menus. Typically there is a
menu that is focused on serving the tourists,
and so lacks quality. Most of the best
restaurants of course lie far from the main
attractions of the city. Of course pizza is a
readily available meal, while seafood caught in
the Adriatic is the specialty of Venice.
If sweet snacks are in order Venice is
in no short supply of such vendors. Numerous
cafs and pasticcerie line the streets, and often
these vendors also serve alcohol. These pastry
shops are filled in the early mornings as
Venetians stop off for a quick bite and coffee
before continuing on to work. Of course the
other main feature Venice is the large number
of places to buy ice cream.
The Venetian nightlife has died out as
the city has become more overrun with
tourists. But even though it is quiet, there are a
number of places to go beyond the theatres and
concert halls.
One of the busiest locations is the
Fondamenta della Misericordia in Cannaregio,
and Dorsoduro. Here bars are busy affairs with
plenty of music playing. There are just two
nightclubs in Venice, the best being a
members only venue called Club Malvasia
Vecchia which is near to the Fenice. The other
club is a student favourite called Round
Midnight. Otherwise for a decent night out
there are just the clubs in Mestre, Marghera,
and Jesolo. Jesolo sits north of Venice on the
edge of the lagoon, and it a difficult place to
get back from in the early hours. The route
from Jesolo to Venice is a stretch of road that
has the highest death toll in Italy, mainly due
to the intoxicated youth that drive back from
Jesolo to Venice.
One other option is the casino, situated
in Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi, on the Grand
Canal, those who go there to gamble must
dress accordingly and must be over the age of
18. Most of the gamblers are affluent youth
from the mainland.
Venice is of course famous for its
carnival, something that we have explained in
detail in the introduction of this book. But
there are other important festivals in Venice
that take place over the course of the year.
The Biennale is an arts festival, taking
place every two years (on odd numbered
years). The focus of the event is contemporary
art, but is also tied to architecture, dance and
film. The festival takes place in the Giardini
where a number of pavilions are set up for a
number of countries. There is also a larger hall
which is managed by the curator of the event.
Making up part of the Biennale, but
also running every year, is the Venice Film
Festival. The festival is the oldest of its kind
and plays host to famous directors and screen
icons. Held in late August to early September
the festival is located on the Lido, with
screenings of upcoming films being held in the
Palazzo del Cinema.
Other key festivals are All Saints Day,
and the Feast of Santa Maria della Salute. The
latter festival celebrates the end of the plague
and the salvation of Venice, for which the
church was built. On the 21
st
of November a
floating bridge is laid out that connects the
church to the main islands of Venice.
Behind the Mask
Venice, since the beginning, has been a
refuge for people of all cultures, beginning
with the Veneti who fled the invasion of the
Huns. Venice, the collection of marshy islands
defended by sandbanks and the lagoon barriers
themselves offered the perfect protection from
the invaders, and would do for the next sixteen
centuries. Even in the early days of Venice,
changelings have coexisted with the ragtag
collection of colonists and fishermen. The
earliest legends that the changelings keep
recall that a changeling of the Elemental
Seeming, simply known as Mother of Pearl.
She called out to the sea and made a pact with
it. In return for her soul and herself, the sea
would provide the changelings of the island all
the protection they needed. Mother of Pearl
then walked out into the sea and vanished, and
the changelings of the city were safe from the
True Fae. The Hedge about Venice took on a
new form. The marshy vines and stagnant
pools shifted and were reshaped by the sea into
a maze of tall arching vines, almost as if the
Hedge itself had hidden the islands from the
Gentry. The marshy islands in the Hedge were
surrounded on all sides by the tall, tearing
vines and were interconnected by a network of
trods that wound their way through the Hedge,
only accessible by water.
For whatever reason changelings were
drawn to Venice due to the protection the city
offered. Venice was a true freehold defended
against the Fae by the Hedge itself. But as the
reputation of the city grew, the defenses in the
Hedge were worn away and soon the largest
trod ever known was formed. The Lions Tail
Trod as it came to be known, was formed in
828. With the arrival of the body of St Mark to
the city an influx of escaping changelings
arrived in the city. A large number of
changelings marched out of the Hedge and
into the city. For some reason Venice was a
beacon to the Lost and attracted fleeing
changelings regardless of where they had been
stolen from.
The initial changeling court of Venice
was ruled by the Court of Water, in honor of
the pact made by Mother of Pearl. Water was
both the element that gave Venice life and also
allowed it to be kill. Water was sustaining and
unforgiving, and in these early days the
changelings of the city engaged in ceremonies
and Pledges with the sea to ensure that the
Hedge was maintained. However, as
changelings arrived from other places within
Europe, the Court of Water was replaced with
the seasonal courts. No matter which court
ruled, the position of King or Queen of the
seasonal court was referred to as Doge, and
was elected by members of their own court.
But even these elected Doges were not foolish
enough to forget the Pledge made by Mother
of Pearl.
As the population of changelings in the
city grew, the courts became more elaborate,
their rites and practices becoming long and
dependent upon the acknowledgement of each
others rank. The changelings were nobles in
their own right, merchants of dreams, traders
of wishescurses and enchantments were
their coin. But as the wealth and security of the
changelings became greater, so did their
apathy and complacency. Unknown to the
courts the changelings had traitors amongst
themselves and they had been hard at work
now for some time.
The Pledge made by Mother of Pearl to
the sea was powerful indeed, and its catch was
shrouded in mystery. A group of rebels,
seeking to bring down the city and its court
searched the city for the catch, the loophole,
and after much searching found it. It was well
known that when a person dies in the sea their
soul must float along the waters, holding a
candle, hoping that the Ferryman will pluck
them from the waves and take them onto the
other side. But the Pledge of Mother of Pearl
with the sea relied on the sea being treated
with respect by the changelings of Venice. The
Pact should not be soiled or else the sea would
be angry at the changelings and their vices.
Through careful observation the rebels noted
that the trods through the Hedge became more
open when a child died in the waters of the
lagoon. But worse was when men had killed
them and thrown them into the waters to
remove the evidence.
Over the course of a year at the end of
the 13
th
century, the traitors stole away
children from every district and from every
level of society. Rumours that the True Fae
had somehow found a way to the city started
to spread, and the control of the city by the
courts was crumbling. Venice was bursting at
the seams with changelings and now in this
bitter climate many were taking the chance to
settle old scores. It was only when a number of
changelings allied to the seas made a
gruesome discovery that the true ramifications
of the Pledge hit home.
The rebels, through disguise or magic,
had sought out and kidnapped 37 children, all
of whom who had been born at sea. These
treasured ones that the sea loved most were
then ritually slain, their throats cut and bled at
points about the islands of Venice, forming a
large fairy circle. These children would act as
candles to direct the Gentry to the city. When
the courts learned of this it was too late. On
the last day of Carnival the following year, a
great number of True Fae invaded the city,
dragging off changelings and mortals to their
citadels in Arcadia.
Over the course of 40 nights the
changeling population of Venice was halved
and the Hedge defences were torn to shreds;
now the trods led out of Venice and allowed
the Fae in. One particular Gentry who struck
fear and awe in the hearts of the courts was
Commodore Fathom, Master of the Leviathan,
His Eyes of Blackest Pearl. Arriving in a bank
of fog, Commodore Fathom unleashed a horde
of hobgoblins, the crew of his baroque ship,
the Fathom. The hobgoblins, a Wyrd shaping
of crustaceans and sharks and cephalopods,
stalked the streets of Venice and captured
numerous humans and changelings who would
be forced to man the Leviathan for the crab-
like Commodore.
With the hunt over and the remaining
changelings of the city now living in fear of
further attacks, many went into hiding. Others
took on a more martial stance, rooting out the
privateers and rebels who had led the True Fae
to the city that they had thought was safe. For
the next few years the Seasonal Courts took
hold in Venice and the changelings, looking
for someone to blame, turned upon each other
with the Courts constantly bickering. Some
could see that this could not last forever and
that there was a need for stability and a leader
who transcended the Courts and the old
pledges and contracts with the sea.
In 1427 the changelings of Venice
were once more under siege from the
predatory Gentry. Children were stolen,
women went missing, and some people were
found murdered, victims of the foul tastes of
the Keepers. Once more the Leviathan was
docked in the Venetian lagoon, its hold filled
with fresh slaves. For one changeling enough
was enough. Though his name is lost to time,
the pledge that he forged his legacy still lives
on. It was early February, and the festival of
Carnival had been in full swing since the end
of Christmas. The people of the city were
decorated in masks and gaudy attire, and none
could tell the difference between servant and
master. The revelry and disguises and
costumes would be the very tool to protect the
changelings of the city. The ancient ritual of
the Carnival embodied the needs of the
changelings of Venice. It allowed for the
indulgence of the Spring Court, the displays of
martial prowess of the Summer Court, the
mystic rites of the Autumn Court, and the
ability to hide in the open of the Winter Court.
On the night of the full moon, on the last day
http://stockeffect.deviantart.com/art/Black-Carnival-1-
277018956?q=boost%3Apopular%20in%3Aresources%20carnival%20masqu
erade&qo=20
of Carnival the changeling, using a knife of
glass, cut his own face from his skull. He
collected the blood that fell from his ragged
visage, an offering to Bacchus, and incinerated
the tattered remains of his face in honour of
Saturn. In the final act the changeling, their
gender is even a mystery now as it was then,
donned an all concealing mask of many colors,
reciting a Latin verse to the god Janus. The
new Doge of the changelings was born, and so
was the Pact of the Carnival and the new Court
of the Carnival.
His first act as Doge was dramatic and
terrifying to the other Lost of the city. During
a gathering of the changelings before the
Winter Queen, Francesca Blue Lips, the
Frozen Tears of a Hundred Lovers, the Doge
marched in, adorned in gold and silver and red.
His mask shifted with each step, and a smile
would become a frown with every whisper in
his presence. All of the freehold looked on in
awe and fear as he stepped forward,
brandishing in one hand a mighty sword made
of a narwhals horn, and in the other he held
high the head of a twisted serpent-like being.
Blood dripped from its severed neck and the
tongue dangled slack from the cruel smile.
One of the Lost present immediately
recognised the harrowing visage as her Keeper
and wept knowing at last she no longer had to
fear being taken back to their bestial realm in
Arcadia.
The Winter Queen was rightly shocked
by this interruption and demanded to know
who this new arrival was. In response the
changeling strode forward, threw the head of
the Keeper to the base of her throne and
proclaimed aloud, I am Doge, if you like it! I
come to you now to claim Venice as the
domain of the Court of the Carnival. You, my
subjects, can now live without fear, in plain
sight, free to enjoy life as you once did, and
protected from those who would otherwise
take freedom from you!
All about the Lost bowed in respect,
seeing that the very aspect of Winter was
banished from the court, the Winter Queen
herself shrinking in stature and finding that
upon their faces were now masks of all
varieties and their mien now banished. Music
could be heard in the wake of the new Doge,
wine and sweets could be tasted on the air. The
Winter Queen, acknowledging her new ruler
asked what was to become of herself and her
cousins within the other courts. The Doge said,
that if they liked, they would become his
advisors and leaders of the Seasonal Houses
that would comprise the court of the Carnival,
and that so long as the Carnival was respected
then so would the seasons. The Queen bowed
and looked for similar gestures from members
of the other courts, and at once their masks
shifted and their regalia of power evaporated
away, for only the Doge would be allowed to
see past all masks within his Court.
Over the coming year the nature of this
new Court was fully understood. The presence
of masks and the shrouding of the mien within
the presence of the Doge ensured that all
appeared equal before the Doge. But it also
meant that no changeling could be certain of
the identity of who they were talking to within
court, meaning that conspiracies no longer
could operate so easily, and the Lost were now
open to express their opinions before the Doge
without fear of repercussions. The masks
ensured that the members of the Freehold had
to work together. But there were also other
benefits. Balls and parties increased as the
Lost found that the Gentry were now
hampered by power of the Doge, and no
longer could they identify their old slaves.
The Court of Carnival is also known as
the Court of a Thousand Masks, the Harlequin
Court, the Court of Ecstasy, and the Violet
Court. The Court of the Carnival grew and
prospered. Every year new Lost poured in
from the Lions Tail trod, and in Venice they
found refuge and security. The Gentry
themselves also came into Venice, but masked
by the power of Carnival, the changelings of
the city were able to drag the True Fae into a
world of madness and ecstasy from which they
could not escape. It was in these parties of
wine and meat and music that the unfortunate
True Fae lost all sense of themselves, finding
human emotions and worst of all, human
weakness. Prone and drunk on the human
condition, the Lost would strike upon their
Guests dragging them before the Doge
before either incarceration or execution.
For a time peace and tranquility
reigned in Venice. That was until the Doge
was assassinated.
The identity of the Doge is always an
unknown. The power of Carnival means that
whenever someone assumes the mantle of
Doge, all history and knowledge of that person
becomes masked by the Wyrd. Others may
remember the person but assume they left for
some other city, or that they died or were taken
back by the True Fae. Either way all memory
of the identity of the Doge is clouded, while
the old Doge reassumes their old life as if they
had always been there, whilst forgetting of
their time as Doge. It is for this reason that the
first ever assassination of the Doge came as
quite a surprise to the Lost of Venice.
One of the Gentry, a self-made master
of mirrors and masks, found their entire notion
of Venice to his dislike. She was insulted that
these wayward slaves, even some of her own,
acted as if they were lords and ladies because
they had the immunity granted them by the
Pact of Carnival. This True Fae, a jealous
fiend, Her Body of Cackling Wine, sought to
show the Lost of Venice the error of their
ways. She would find the Doge and pluck out
his eyes to show all of the foul creatures that
nothing comes without some sort of price.
Through intrigue and dark pacts Cackling
Wine duped and seduced a number of the Lost
of Venice, bending them to her will so that the
Pact of Carnival could be uncovered. This cat
and mouse game continued for many nights
and years as Cackling Wine discovered more
about the Carnival, more about this ancient
festival. And it was by understanding it that
this True Fae discovered the secret to the
Doge.
During the great fire of the early 16
th
century, Her Body of Cackling Wine
destroyed a number of her entitlements,
banishing her Arcadian powers given by these
names. Her hair fell to the ground and pooled
like oil, her eyes wept smoke and she found
herself diminished. But with the ritual came
the Doge, summoned by her sacrifice, by the
very Pact of Carnival. The Doge, their mask
now shattered and their true self now open to
all that looked upon him, confronted the True
Fae, his rage visible as his elemental mien of
fire ignited and burned bright. All over the city
the Hedge opened into the city and the
Hobgoblins and Gentry that had lain in waiting
poured into the city to take back their wayward
slaves. Meanwhile the Doge fell upon
Cackling Wine, flame and fire setting the
surroundings and oil a blaze. And then
together, burning and fighting, the Doge and
Cackling Wine fell into the waters and were
lost forever.
After the city had burned and ash now
fell from the skies, the Lost gathered together
for safety, their grand ball over. They had paid
the price of their decadence. Carnival had
come to take the flesh it was owed. But one of
the Lost went out looking for the missing
Doge and discovered floating in the water the
skull of the dead duke. Compelled to repay
Carnival, this changeling used the teeth of the
skull to pluck out his eyes and then donned the
skull as his new face. Carnival had been
appeased, and a new Doge had risen from the
ashes.
The mid 16
th
century saw Venice hit
with plague and the city dwindled in power.
The Lost, once the dominant force of Venice,
now had to tackle the strange vampires and
ghosts who had snuck into the city, taking
advantage of the chaos. Fingers were pointed
at these entities for bringing disease to the city,
but these were only suspicions. With Venice
reduced by death and destruction, the House of
Winter, the Ca di Ghiaccio, flourished. The
swell of mourners and feelings of loss brought
much power to the House of Ice, and many
more changelings joined their House, seeking
to find shelter and safety. Winter cast a long
shadow over Carnival, and so the balls and
revelry were replaced by secret decadence and
hidden orgies. It was also at this time that the
House of Winter, the Ca dei Crani, the House
of Skulls, organized a new group of dedicated
changelings who could deal with the threat of
the restless dead. The isles of Lazaretto are
cursed places where things that should remain
dead lurk in the dark and only those
changelings that seek goblin fruits tainted by
death dare to tread these shores.
As the years past and more and more
foreigners arrived in the city, the changelings
of the city feasted on their emotions. The
Carnival still took place, and princes and lords
from all around came to indulge. This
decadence was all the Lost of Venice had to
stave off the effects of the decline of the city
and its Empire. The House of Spring, the Ca
della Consacrazione, fed off the dark desires of
the visiting nobles. The Ca di Sun, the House
of Summer, feasted off the anger and rage that
seethed within the Venetian sailors and lords
as their lands were stolen from them. Those
changelings of the Ca dei Crani sipped at the
fear of all Venetians, the fear that Venice
would fall, the fear of plague, of death, of the
end of the Empire. And the Ca di Ghiaccio
just hid themselves away, storing away what
things they could while gnawing on the
constant feeling of sorrow that had fallen on
the city. Venice was falling and the
changelings carried on their Great Carnival,
ignoring the inevitable end.
Debauchery and revelry hit its height in
the 18
th
century , and as the city found new
depths of sin, the magic of the city was
banished as science and industry altered the
face of the city. Imagination, the savage
garden of emotion, was gone, and the city was
devoid of feeling. Glamour of all kinds ran
thin within the city, the harvest was over and
now was the citys winter of discontent. The
Court of Carnival withered, and the Houses
warred with one another for the little glamour
that flowed into the city.
Then came Napoleon, and with him
corrupt mortal sorcerers and vampires. The
city, sick and empty of any form of emotion or
passion, fell to the warlord and the Court of
Carnival was broken. But not before the price
of flesh was paid. The last Doge of the old
Court hung himself from the Campanile in St
Marks Piazza, the pact with Carnival
maintained. Their years of revelry were over
and now their sins were to be weighed and
counted.
During the darker years of Napoleonic
rule, and under the rule of Austria and
Mussolini, the Lost dwindled, hunted down by
mystics and Fae hunters. The magic of the city
was gone, but those who remained, the
remains of the Houses and the Court, kept the
embers of Carnival alive. Secret balls, private
parties, all these things helped keep the dream
alive. In this desert of emotion the mask of the
Doge was protected. But then there were those
of the Houses who sought to destroy the mask,
the crown of the Doge, and so replace the
Court with the Seasonal rule. Changeling
killed changeling and a shadow war ground
the Houses down, and all the while mages and
vampires stole their ancient artifacts and
magical devices.
But worse was to come. Magical war,
the loss of the great dream of Venice, the end
of the Serenissima, had damaged the very
essence of Venice. Like Atlantis and the
Minoans, Venice was to be consumed by
water. The city reflected darkly in the oily
waters that flooded the city, and into these
waters the Gentry dragged mortals to Arcadia.
Flooding became a frequent event and
people were lost to the waters as the mirror-
like floods allowed the Gentry to hunt far and
wide within the city. The very defenses of the
seas had been turned against them, another
cost of their debauchery.
However, Carnival returned. A new
pact was made with the great festival, and this
time the price was even higher. In return for
Carnivals protection, for returning the city to
its former glory, the Doge and his court would
have to pay the ultimate price, their souls,
when Carnival comes looking from its
payment of flesh.
Ever since the re-emergence of the
Carnival in the early 80s the Lost of Venice
has grown in strength. The Freehold is once
more stable, and the dream of Venice now
draws tourists in from all over the world and
with them they bring their passions, their
emotions, their imaginations, and their hope.
Venice was once more a place where people
could indulge in their desires, sorrow, fear,
rage.
Of course there were those who still
opposed the Court of the Carnival and the
Doge, but they could not deny that Carnival
had caused a resurgence of emotion and
energy with the city. Vampires were driven
from their havens and terrible wizards were
banished from their sanctums. Dreams of
Venices salvation were planted in the minds
of those mortals that could save the city and
the trods of the city were once more patrolled.
But despite these things Venice was still
terribly damaged. Floods still ravaged the city
in Winter, and the waters still threatened to
rise and consume the city forever. And of
course the Gentry still came into the city, now
more aware than ever of the high price of
Carnival.
The Freehold of Venice has been held
by the Court of Carnival for many centuries.
During that time countless Doges have held
office. Some were granted the position by the
departing Doge, others were simply bestowed
the seat upon the death of the last Doge. The
identity of the Doge has always been one of
the greatest mysteries of the city. Every time a
new Doge is appointed, he is bound to keep
that identity secret or he will die and the title is
then passed on. Meanwhile the old Doge slips
back into his old life as if he was never gone.
Gaps in details are filled in, and all memory of
his time as Doge is removed. The only tie
between the Doges of the Court of Carnival is
the Book of the Long Masquerade, a journal
detailing the history and lore of the Freehold.
The role of the Doge is that of arbiter
and chairman. He is the head of the Freehold
but not a despot. His rule must first pass the
approval of the Dukes of the Seasonal Houses.
Only in times of great need can the Doge rule
without question, but even that must be agreed
upon by the heads of the Seasonal Houses of
Venice. The Doge authorizes new laws for the
Freehold, acts as the final judge of tribunals,
and acts as the commander of arms when war
is declared.
The Doge also plays a major role in the
social aspect of the freehold, holding court and
listening to the needs of his subjects. Thus the
Doge performs an important part in the
Freehold, acting as counselor and master of
rites.
The Glamour that acts upon the Doge
ensures that the identity of the Doge is a secret
and his human face is concealed when in
court. Outside of his duties as Doge, the Doge
cannot reveal his title and the magic associated
with the title is not revealed. For all intents and
purposes the Doge is just like any other
changeling.
The Glamour associated with the title
of Doge is not just limited to the Doge
themselves, but extends to all of those within
court. When entering the official court of the
Doge, all other changelings have their mien
banished and their image is concealed by a
mask. The Pact of Carnival allows for all
changelings to associate with each others as
equals at the price of not knowing whom they
are with. This curious effect means that only
changelings that enter court together are aware
of which mask that they each wear. For others
that arrive at the court, changelings must ask
for their identity. Thus it is completely
possible for changelings to remain anonymous
in court, free to speak their mind to all others.
Such a state of affairs means that concerns can
be openly expressed without fear of
repercussions. But it also means that rumor
and conspiracy is rife, and paranoia reigns as
changelings try to ensure that they are not
identified and singled out for their views and
actions. But this maddening court of intrigue,
backstabbing and whispers is the price paid for
their freedom. The Pact of Carnival gives the
Lost of the city shelter from the Gentry.
Carnival works its Glamour upon all members
of the freehold, hiding their mien from the
Gentry so that they appear as just mortals. This
does not stop the True Fae however, it is just
another mask and like all masks they can be
looked past.
The most notable Hollow of the Court
of Carnival is associated with the Ca Psaro,
the museum for oriental and modern arts. This
stone-clad gothic building is covered in
gruesome heads.
The Court of Carnival, the Thousand
Masks, the Quicksilver Court, the Court of
Revelry and Laughter.
Some wish to hide, some wish to loses
themselves to their desires, others give into
their rage, and others wish to cause fear. But
the court of Carnival is something else. It is
farewell to the flesh, to let go of themselves
and be lost within the festival of Carnival. If
they are willing to make the sacrifice, the
Carnival offers safety, pleasure, mystery,
magic, secrecy and power. The ultimate
message of Carnival is one of festival and
showing that the Lost can turn the tables on
the Gentry. Of course the question is when
Carnival will come seeking to collect their
debts.
For the above reasons the Court of
Carnival is eclectic, maddening, and colorful,
attracting changeling from all walks of life.
But typically the court attracts those
changelings that have a taste for politics,
intrigue, revelry and magic, all at once. They
are all self-styled princes of Faerie. But of
course this intense mix is difficult for many
changelings to accommodate, and often
courtiers can be driven to insanity by the
pressures of Carnival. But this is the cost of
the power that comes from the Court.
Of course the most important rituals of
the Court focus on the period of Carnival.
Starting on the 26
th
of December the Doge,
along with a representative of the House of
Winter, leads the celebration of the start of
Carnival. Masks are ritually burnt, signifying
the start of the period of renewal. But first the
changelings must give up their past year and
confide to Carnival their sins. The real
celebrations do not begin until two weeks
before Fat Tuesday, and on the Sunday at the
start of this period the Doge elects the Carnival
Prince and Princess. These two lead the balls
and parties and act as a focus for the
Freeholds celebrations, culminating in their
ceremonial marriage on Fat Tuesday. This
marriage sees a grand ball and Lost from other
Freeholds beyond Venice are invited to join in
the celebration.
The following day, Ash Wednesday,
marks the start of Lent, and so the changelings
of the Court of Carnival focus intently on their
purpose and duties for the following year.
For the remainder of the year the Court
is devoted to secrecy and study, defending the
Freehold and rooting out dangers within the
city.
The heraldry of the Court is a strange
mix. It is the clear blue skies over the Adriatic
in February, the bracing sea breeze, the smell
of mulled wine, the sparkle of light from the
crests of waves, the taste of hot chocolate, the
sound laughter, the ringing of church bells,
masks, tricorn hats, cats, lions, violins,
gondola, mercury, salt, a sense of
disorientation and loss of direction.
The Mantle of Carnival is somewhat a
mix of all others. The Mantle gives a senses of
Carnival as an overload of the sense as a
means to hide the changeling. At Mantle to
the mien of the changeling is confusing
and sensual as the observer is assaulted by the
smells and tastes of Carnival. When invoking a
contract laughter may be heard or a cold wind
blows. At Mantle + the mien of a
Carnival courtier is even more intense as
dimensions are confused, directions twisted,
spices can be smelled in the air and laughter
assaults the ears of the observer. Even more
important is that this Mantle only manifests in
locations where the Doge is holding court, or
if the Carnival courtier wishes.
At Mantle + a Carnival courtier
become harder to spot and so those actively
seeking the changeling have a -1 die penalty to
their appropriate search skill (Wits +
Composure or Wits + Skill) roll. At Mantle
+ the changeling becomes even more
masked by Carnival, their mien is diminished
and they gain a +1 dice bonus to all subterfuge
rolls. At Mantle the previous penalties
and bonus at previous levels increase by one.
Thus their stealth/subterfuge rolls are
increased by +2, and a -2 penalty to those
seeking the changeling.
The emotion tied to the Court of
Carnival is Carnival itself. Changelings
harvest the Glamour associated with festivity,
celebrations, grand balls, and drunken parties.
This emotion is brought to the forefront in
others as a way of once more feeling what was
stolen from them by the Gentry. Only by
seeking out Carnival can the Court feel as
though it has turned the tables on their
debauched Keepers, stealing back their old
lives and the magic of Faerie. But Carnival
also means acknowledging that all great things
come at a great price and that their freedom
and powers come with strings attached. It is
only when this is acknowledged that a
changeling is free to celebrate his freedom,
knowing what it cost to regain it.
The Court holds certain stereotypical
views of the other courts.
Spring Court: They may indulge in
their passions, but they lose themselves too
easily to their desire and forget to celebrate all
other aspects of life.
Summer Court: They may win the
war but they never take the time to rejoice in
their achievements. No, instead they just seek
out more war, more bloodshed.
Autumn Court: They may try to steal
the magic of Faerie, and use such things for
their own war, to make the Gentry fear their
own tools, but they do not take the time to
enjoy the pleasures that it can bring, or
celebrate the world that it reveals. But always
know that all gifts come with a price.
Winter Court: They can hide but
Carnival will always come, always seeking to
take what is owed, that debt. But also, no
matter how the Winter Court acts, they cannot
deny that they have succeeded in escaping the
Gentry, and not celebrating such an
achievement is a terrible thing as then you
have no drive to achieve greater things.
The current Doge is theorized to have
been in power for the last decade at least. His
rule has been characterized by his balance
between tough justice and a light-handed rule.
Balls and parties are allowed at all times, but
in the shadows his agents are constantly on the
lookout for loyalists, privateers, Gentry and
militia. Within court the Doge has been
attacked openly for not being more proactive
and has gained the hatred and distrust of those
within the Summer and Spring houses. This
revulsion has been born out of the disgust at
the Court of the Carnival preventing seasonal
rule, but also at the Doge clamping down on
the parties and gatherings that have gotten out
of hand, or the more militant Summer courtiers
who think the Doge is not doing enough to
actively hunt those who would bring down the
Freehold.
The Doge appears in court dressed
much like a prince or lord would during the
18
th
century. His attire is white and gold, with
an opulent coat, buckled shoes and powdered
wig. His mask fully conceals his face and is a
shifting mask of emotions.
The Doge does not work in a vacuum,
and has a number of aides that are known
within Court. The Pact of Carnival allows for
the changelings of the city to come to court
and act anonymously, but there are
changelings of the court who are identifiable,
at least within court. Outside of court, it is up
to these changelings to reveal their title.
The seneschal of the Doge is the Bauta.
This changeling is in charge of keeping track
of the details of the city, the funds that are kept
by the Doge, files on the threats to the
Freehold, and works with the Dukes of the
Seasonal Houses to distribute titles and duties,
maintaining the location of Freehold
commons, safe houses and hollows.
Of all the members of the Court of
Carnival, the seneschal is possibly the most
important role but also one of the most
disrespected positions within the Freehold.
Many of the House of Autumn feel that the
seneschal is intruding on their responsibilities,
while the House of Summer and Spring see the
seneschal as a puppet of the Doge.
The Bauta appears in court in robes
almost as opulent as the Doge, and his mask is
the Bauta mask. The Bauta mask is a full face
mask with an angular pronounced jaw that
disguises the mouth. The mask is covered in
gilding and ornate designs.
The role of Volto is the official
peacekeeper of the city. Dressed in the Volto
mask, similar to the Bauta but in pure black,
and worn with a tricorn and a cloak. The Volto
acts as both investigator and executioner, and
works in unison with the defenders of the
Freehold from the Seasonal Houses. Thus the
Volto acts as leader and commander of these
militant changelings, but this an uneasy
alliance that leads to conflicts of interest. Of
all the positions with the city the identity of
the Volto is well known to all changelings in
the Freehold.
The Larva appears similar to the Volto,
however with a mask of pure white. The Larva
is the official ghost hunter of the Freehold.
Such a position is required when the city has
such a deep and troubled history. Thus the
Larva is normally associated with the Autumn
and Winter Seasonal Houses. The other main
duty of the Larva is that of assassin. Whenever
things must be done quietly, the Larva is the
one that is called upon by the Doge. This
means, unlike the Volto, the Larva operates in
complete secrecy.
Servetta Muta is always a female
changeling and dresses in opulent robes and a
black oval mask that has only slits for eyes.
The wearer must bite down onto a bit so that
the mask is held against the face. Thus the role
of the Servetta Muta is that of a confessor. The
Lost of the Freehold can reveal their sins and
troubles to her without the fear that she will
reveal these secrets to others, such is the Pact
with Carnival that is made by the Servetta
Muta. Over the centuries others have tried to
pervert this position, but before long there is a
new Servetta Muta, a changeling is missing
and the Larva is cleaning his blades.
The Columbine and Columbina are the
two changelings who are considered the most
beautiful within the Freehold. The Columbino
masks are the classic half masks, concealing
just the eyes and nose leaving the lower
portion of the face exposed. The masks are
very ornate and so are the costumes that the
courtiers wear. These two changelings are in
charge of organizing the balls and parties of
the Freehold, gifted in the performing arts, and
also are notorious for their numerous and
frequent sexual encounters at these parties.
The final official position within the
Court of Carnival is the Medico della Peste, or
Plague Doctor. This changeling is dressed in
the traditional black robes and wide brimmed
hat, with a mask that covers the entire face.
The mask features small eye slits covered in
clear stones, and is completely white. The
main feature is the grim looking curved wide
beak. This beak, during the Venetian plagues,
was designed so that it could be stuffed with
herbs and spices that would prevent the doctor
from breathing in the plague.
The Medico della Peste is the Freehold
physician, but also acts as intermediary
between the Freehold and the Vampires and
sorcerers that live within the bounds of Venice
and the Venetian mainland. Other than the
Larva and Volto, the Medico della Peste is one
of the most feared and respected changelings
in the Freehold, and on rare occasions
changelings that have been brought in for
minor ailments have disappeared without
trace.
The Court of Carnival has power over
the Masquerade, enabling Changelings to
literally say Farewell to the Flesh.