Barre Causes and Prevention
Barre Causes and Prevention
by
Donald L. Bailey
Vice President,
Textile Research and Implementation
Cotton Incorporated
BARRÉ: METHODS TO PREVENT BARRÉ IN KNITTED FABRIC
In textile production, one of the most common and perplexing quality issues is
“barré.” The factors that can cause or contribute to barré are varied and diverse.
For this reason, when a barré problem is detected, the skills of a sleuth may be
required to expose the problem and eliminate its cause. Once a cause is
identified, steps can be taken to minimize or eliminate the barré, and better
quality fabrics can be produced. This discussion will center on knitted fabrics.
DISCUSSIONS
pattern of continuous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of woven fabric
or to the courses of circular knitted fabric. In a warp knit, barré normally runs in
the length direction, following the direction of yarn flow. Barré can be caused by
physical, optical, dye related differences in the yarn, geometric differences in the
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ASTM D123-96a – Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
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Various aspects of barré are important for consideration and discussion. The
first is the identification of barré. Secondly, how can barré be analyzed? What
IDENTIFICATION OF BARRÉ
The first step in a barré investigation is to observe and define the problem. Barré
can be the result of physical causes that can usually be detected, or it can be
isolate in the fabric. Barré analysis methods that help to discriminate between
physical barré and barré caused by other reasons include Flat Table
For a visual barré analysis, the first step is to lay a full-width fabric sample out on a
table and view both sides from various angles. Generally, if the streaky lines run in
the yarn direction that is in the course direction, apparent color differences can be
seen by looking down at the fabric in a direct visual line with the yarn or course
direction, and the defect can be positively identified as a barré defect. Viewing the
fabric with a light source in the background will show if the barré is physical.
After completing an initial Flat Table Examination, a Light Source Examination may
provide further useful information. Full width fabric samples should be examined
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under two surface lighting conditions, ultraviolet (UV) and fluorescent light.
mineral oils to be more easily detected, due to their radiant energy (glow). When
observed under UV light, fabrics with streaks that exhibit glow suggest improper or
most inspection tables in mills and will highlight whether the barré is perceivable in
The function of the Atlas Streak Analyzer is to isolate barré caused by physical
differences. A fabric swatch is combined with polystyrene sheet film, and the Atlas
specific conditions of pressure and heat. The absence of color on the plastic
impression ensures that only physical streak effects will be seen. The plastic
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streaks observed on the fabric. However, impressions made from spun yarns such
as cotton can be difficult to read due to the inherent yarn variation characteristic of
spun yarns. Also, a too rapid cooling of the test specimen after making an
impression can produce a moiré pattern. From a valid plastic impression, the barré
2. optical or dyeability variations where none of the color streaks are aligned on
Fabrics with combination causes present the greatest challenge for analysis.
If the streak analyzer indicates the same barré pattern as seen in the fabric, then
the barré stripes are physical in nature. This can relate to several physical
causes such as yarn tensions, stitch length, yarn count, twist differences, etc.
Yarn tension causes can be found by raveling adjacent courses and measuring
the lengths of yarn removed from each course. If all the lengths raveled from the
fabric are the same, the pieces can be weighed to determine if the yarn counts
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If the plastic replica shows no stripes, then the barré is due to chemical causes or
reflectance. The next step is to remove the color and evaluate the stripped
sample before re-dyeing to determine if the removal of dye was complete and if
additional strip. If the color is stripped uniformly and the barré is gone, then the
sample should be re-dyed. If after stripping and over dyeing the fabric no longer
has barré, then the barré was caused by improper preparation. If the barré
physical fabric analysis should be done. Physical barré causes are generally
Methods of physical barré analysis include fabric dissection, microscopy, and the
Fabric Dissection
several barré repetitions is required. First, the barré streak boundaries are marked
by the placement of straight pins and/or felt markers. Individual yarns are removed
from light and dark streak sections, and twist level, twist direction, and cut length
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weight determinations are made and recorded. For reliable mean values to be
established, data should be collected from at least two light/dark repeats. After
Microscopy
different spinning systems can have different light reflectance and dye absorption
smooth with all fibers twisted in a tight helix. Open-end spinning produces yarn
with wrapper fibers that form a belt around the diameter of the yarn at irregular
intervals. Air jet spinning produces yarn with more wrapper fibers that form a
continuous spiraling band around the inner fibers that are more parallel to the axis
of the yarn. Microscopy can also reveal a shift in loop formation in knitted fabrics
in the greige, and is the easiest to correct. Often uneven yarn tension during
knitting may be a cause. To test for uneven tension, the Roselon Knit Extension
Tester can be used. For this test, a fabric sample is cut and raveled to yield yarn
samples from light and dark streak areas. The yarn ends are taped and clamped
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Source: Spinlon Industries Incorporated, 18 S. Fifth Street, Quakertown, Pennsylvania 18951
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to the tester. As each yarn is stretched to the maximum extension point, the
points are plotted on graph paper. Comparisons are usually made visually rather
than mathematically.
CAUSES OF BARRÉ
The varied and diverse causes of barré can generally be summed up in one word -
2. Too high a C.V. of micronaire in the laydown for a given mill's opening line
blending efficiency.
3. Failure to control the fiber color in the mix (grayness Rd, yellowness +b).
5. Most, if not all, fiber barré can be controlled by the above four items; however,
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Micronaire
all the bales in the warehouse. This must be done slowly with no more than a
No barré from micronaire differences should show in knitted fabrics when yarns
laydowns vary more than 0.1 micronaire, for example laydowns #1 (4.3 mic.) and
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A c c e p t a b le C h a n g e in M ic r o n a ir e
F ro m L a y d o w n to L a y d o w n
4 .5
4 .4
4 .3
Max +/- 1.0 mic
4 .2
Micronarie
4 .1
4 .0
3 .9
3 .8
3 .7
3 .6
3 .5
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
La ydow n Num be r
Figure 2 shows a high CV% in the micronaire for bales within a laydown. The
laydown shown has 24 bales with an average of 4.1 micronaire and a CV% of
17.7. The change in micronaire from bale to bale is more than a 0.1 change.
Also, the CV% is more than 12.0% and would probably result in barré.
4.7 A vg . 4 .1 CV % 1 7.7 *
4.5
Micronaire
4.3
4.1
3.9
3.7
3.5
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24
B ale N um ber
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Maturity and Fineness
measure that property. Maturity and fineness related causes of barré include:
Yarn Formation/Supply
Even with proper fiber selection to reduce raw material effects on barré, techniques
in the opening, cleaning, blending, and carding areas can have an impact on barré.
These variations can occur at carding where different amounts of non-lint content
removal from card to card can be a problem. Poor blending of fiber from opening
different types of spindle tapes and the use of different cots or new and used cots
Faulty management in the spinning plant can result in the following yarn related
causes of barré:
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6. Uneven waxing or oiling of yarn
7. Improper conditioning.
The set-up and operation of a knitting machine is complex and requires precision
settings to produce first quality goods. Machine related causes of barré include:
7. Machine vibration.
8. Dirt, lint, and/or yarn fragments in the camming system, tricks, needles, or
sinkers.
Even with a properly set-up machine, barré can still occur at knitting due to poor
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1. Mixing yarns of different counts.
8. Mercerization differences.
10. If yarns are conditioned, then each lot must be uniformly conditioned.
work very well in terms of removal of non-fibrous contaminants and natural fiber
pigmentation. However, some fabrics can exhibit barré that is caused by either
optical or dyeability issues. Often, the barré is not created in dyeing, but can be
highlighted. In this scenario, the dyeing is not the cause but the “messenger” of the
problem.
fabric is known to have barré, then that roll should be processed into a white.
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Preparation can help “mask” barré, but cannot and will not eliminate it. The cause
of the barré must be eliminated for future rolls to be free of the defect.
The scour and/or bleach procedure can be intensified to mask the barré. This can
Usually the chemistry will remain the same; however, in some cases, it may have to
be increased or changed.
If any changes are made in the preparation procedure, the fabric and resultant
shade will possibly change in whiteness, strength, and appearance. In fact, the
whiteness will almost always change. If whiter, the old dye formula will need to be
adjusted. The strength of the fabric may be affected to the point where it becomes
a problem. Finally, the surface of the fabric may change so that it may not match
machine.
Tension can play an integral role in not only the formation of the fabric, but also
during preparation, dyeing, and finishing. As with all variables, it must be controlled
change the morphology of the cotton (i.e. during mercerization), level of dye pick-
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up, or surface appearance (i.e. during mechanical finishing such as brushing or
sanding).
PREVENTION OF BARRÉ
maintained through all phases of textile production. Stock yarns should be properly
and carefully labeled to avoid mix-ups. Fugitive tints and/or marked cones can be
in/first out basis. All equipment should be properly maintained and periodically
dyeings can be done to check for barré. Knit machine operators should be trained
to look for barré as it occurs in the greige. If spotted, the machine should be
Salvaging a fabric lot with a barré problem may be possible through careful dye
selection. Color differences can be masked by using shades with very low light
reflectance (navy blue, black) or high light reflectance (light yellow, orange, or
finished white). Dye suppliers should be able to offer assistance in this area. Also,
if the cause of the barré is an uneven distribution of oil or wax, a more thorough
preparation of the fabric before dyeing may result in more uniform dye coverage.
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With close cooperation between production and quality control personnel, barré
! If yarn shipment dates must be mixed, then use consecutive shipment dates.
! Identify those rolls within a dye lot that have mixed yarn shipment dates so
! Identify dye lots that have rolls from different yarn shipments before dyeing.
A 100% cotton, ring-spun single jersey style T-shirt is knitting in production with a
yarn that does not have a barré problem. This style has been knitting for
numerous days and no more of the yarn is available for creeling on the machine
as the yarns are knitting out. Some yarn packages are “skinners” and others are
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When the new yarn is creeled onto one of the 80 positions, the mixing of yarn
shipment dates begins to take place. For this discussion, we will assume that
this new yarn will cause barré when mixed with the old yarn. Once all positions
are knitting the new yarn, there will be no barré. How many rolls of fabric will
have barré when both these yarns are present in the rolls?
If the knitter is making 50 pound rolls, then each yarn package will supply 1/80th
of the 50-pound roll or 0.625 pounds of yarn. Therefore, the new yarn will make
8.0 rolls of fabric with barré (5-pound package divided by 0.625 pounds per
package for a 50 pound roll). It is important to realize that while this new
package is knitting, other old yarn positions on the creel are also being replaced
by new yarns. By the time the first new package has knitted out, all feeds will be
using the new yarn. When the last old package is replaced and all positions
Often, many machines will be knitting the same style. If ten machines are
knitting this style and are using the old yarn and new yarns are placed on these
80 feed machines, then the total number of rolls knitted with barré will be 80. A
total of 4,000 pounds of fabric will be made with barré. If the style in question
weighs 5.8 ounces per linear yarn, then a total of 11,035 yards of fabric will be
made. Further, if it can be assumed that each yard of fabric can make 1.2 shirts,
then a total of 13,240 defective T-shirts will be made. This is 1,103 dozen
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garments. If the cost per shirt is $2.05 per unit, then a loss of $27,142 plus is
realized.
If open-end yarn was used for this case study instead of ring-spun yarns, then 8-
pound packages of yarn could be used. This would result in 128 rolls containing
6,400 pounds and 17,655 yards of fabric. From this, 21,186 T-shirts (1766
dozens) would have been made. Based on a cost per shirt of $1.86, the loss
would be $39,405. The result is that bigger packages mean bigger losses.
The best methods to reduce the possibility of this catastrophe are listed below:
1. When mixing yarn shipment dates of only one week, try to reduce the number
2. As more machines are expending the old yarn, consolidate the old packages
to fewer machines. This means removing the yarns from one creel and using
them on other machines that are still knitting the old yarn.
done on a swatch from the roll to determine if barré is present. If not, then
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shades that are not known to be barré sensitive or prepared with more
aggressive chemistry.
CONCLUSIONS
result of poor management of fiber, yarn, and/or related knitting processes. The
spinner, the knitter, and the dyer must communicate and work as a team to
reduce the potential for barré to occur. A well planned and executed system of
monitoring the spinning, knitting, dyeing, and finishing systems in the mill can
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