The Road to Santiago

Spanish Tourist Information Offices Abroad Useful Telephone Numbers

The Road to Santiago

Addresses and Telephone CANADA. Toronto. Tourist Office of Spain Emergencies % 112
Numbers of Interest 2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402. Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2 Medical Emergencies % 061

Spain

Spain
% 1416/961 31 31 ) 1416/961 19 92 Civil Guard % 062
www.tourspain.toronto.on.ca / e-mail: toronto@tourspain.es
International telephone prefix % 34 National Police % 091
JAPAN. Tokyo. Tourist Office of Spain Municipal Police % 092
Tourist Information: TURESPAÑA www.spain.info Daini Toranomon Denki Bldg. 6F. 3-1-10 Toranomon Citizen Information % 010
Minato-Ku. TOKYO-105-0001 RENFE % 902 202 240 www.renfe.es
Spanish Federation of Associations of the Road to Santiago % 813/34 32 61 42 ) 813/34 32 61 44
Rúa Vieja, 3 bajo. Logroño www.spaintour.com / e-mail: tokio@tourspain.es International information % 902 242 402
Highway Information % 900 123 505 www.dgt.es
Paradores de Turismo (Tourist Parador Hotels) RUSIA. Moscow. Spanish Tourist Office
Poste % 902 197 197 www.correos.es
Central Reservation Office. Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid Tverskaya - 16/2 6º. MOSCOW 125009
% 902 547 979 ) 902 525 432 www.parador.es % 7495/935 83 99 ) 7495/935 83 96 AENA (Spanish Airports and Air Navigation) % 902 404 704 www.aena.es
www.tourspain.ru / e-mail: moscu@tourspain.es
SINGAPORE. Singapore. Spanish Tourist Office
Local Tourist Offices 541 Orchard Road Liat Tower # 09-04. 238881 SINGAPORE
% 65/67 37 30 08 ) 65/67 37 31 73
Astorga: Glorieta Eduardo Castro, 5 % 987 618 222 ) 987 603 065 e-mail: singapore@tourspain.es
Bilbao: Plaza del Ensanche, 11 % 944 795 760
Burgos: Plaza de Alonso Martínez, 7 % 947 203 125 ) 947 276 529 UNITED KINGDOM. London. Spanish Tourist Office
Castro Urdiales: Avenida de la Constitución, 1 % 942 871 337 2nd floor, 79 Cavendish Street. London W1A 6XB
A Coruña: Dársena de la Marina % 981 221 822 % 44207/486 80 77 ) 44207/486 80 34
Donostia-San Sebastián: Reina Regente, 3 www.tourspain.co.uk / e-mail: londres@tourspain.es
% 943 481 166 ) 943 481 172
Durango: Askatasun Etorbidea, 2 % 946 033 938 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
Estella: San Nicolás, 1 % 948 556 301 Los Angeles. Tourist Office of Spain
Frómista: Paseo Central % 979 810 180 8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960. Beverly Hills, CAL 90211
Gijón: Marina. Espigón Central de Fomento % 985 341 771/902 931 993 % 1323/658 71 95 ) 1313/658 10 61
Huesca: Plaza de la Catedral, 1 % 974 292 170 www.okspain.org / e-mail: losangeles@tourspain.es
Jaca: Regimiento de Galicia, 2 % 974 360 098 ) 974 355 165 Chicago. Tourist Office of Spain
Water Tower Place. Suite 915 East. 845, North Michigan Avenue
León: Plaza de la Regla, 3 % 987 237 082 ) 987 273 391
Chicago, Illinois 60/611 % 1312/642 19 92 ) 1312/642 98 17
Logroño: Paseo del Espolón, 1 % 941 291 260 ) 941 291 640
www.okspain.org / e-mail: chicago@tourspain.es
Lugo: Plaza Mayor, 27-29 % 982 231 361 Cathedral. Santiago de Compostela
Miami. Tourist Office of Spain
Mondoñedo: Plaza de la Catedral, 34 % 982 507 177
1395 Brickell Avenue. Miami, Florida 33131 Front cover: Door of Glory. Image of St. James
Nájera: Constantino Garrán, 1 % 941 360 041 % 1305/358 19 92 ) 1305/358 82 23
Orreaga-Roncesvalles: Antiguo Molino % 948 760 301 www.okspain.org / e-mail: miami@tourspain.es
Back cover: Pilgrims on the Way to Santiago
Ourense: Edificio Caseta do Legoeiro (Ponte Romana) % 988 372 020 New York. Tourist Office of Spain Text: Cristóbal Ramírez
Oviedo: Cimadevilla, 4 % 985 213 385 666 Fifth Avenue 35th floor. New York, NY 10103 Translation: J. West
Palencia: Calle Mayor, 105 % 979 740 068 ) 979 700 822 % 1212/265 88 22 ) 1212/265 88 64
Pamplona: Calle Eslava, 1 % 848 420 420 Photographs: Turespaña Photographic Archive
www.okspain.org / e-mail: nuevayork@tourspain.es
Ponferrada: Gil y Carrasco, 4 % 987 424 236 Design: Koldo Fuentes
Puente la Reina: Plaza de Mena, 1 % 948 340 845 ) 948 340 813 Layout: OPCIÓN K. Comunicación Visual, S.L.
Ribadeo: Plaza España % 982 128 689 Embassies in Madrid
Sahagún: El Arco, 87 % 987 781 121 Published by: © Turespaña EUROPEAN COMMUNITY

Santander: Hernán Cortés, 4 % 942 310 708 Secretaría de Estado de Turismo y Comercio
Canada: Núñez de Balboa, 35 - 3º % 914 233 250 ) 914 233 251 European Regional
Ministerio de Industria, Turismo y Comercio
Santiago de Compostela: Rúa del Villar, 30 % 981 584 081 Japan: Serrano, 109 % 915 907 600 ) 915 901 321 Development Fund

Santo Domingo de la Calzada: Calle Mayor, 70 % 941 341 230 Republic of Ireland: Claudio Coello, 73 % 915 763 500 ) 914 351 677 Printed by: EGRAF, S. A.
Villafranca del Bierzo: Avenida Bernardo Díez Ovelar % 987 540 028 Russia: Velázquez, 155 % 915 622 264 ) 915 629 712
Villaviciosa: Parque Vallina % 985 891 759 United Kingdom: Fernando El Santo, 16 % 913 190 200 ) 913 081 033 D.L.: M. 35552-2006
Vitoria-Gasteiz: Plaza General Loma % 945 161 598 United States of America: Serrano, 75 % 915 872 200 ) 915 872 303 NIPO: 704-06-020-0
I
Printed in Spain
4th Edition
 Cartografía: GCAR S.L.
Cardenal Silíceo, 35 LEGEND
28002-MADRID Año 2004
Toll Highway World Heritage Site
Freeway and dual carriageway Parador
National Road Shrine/Monastery
Primary Regional Road Airport
Secondary Regional Road Caves
Local Road
High speed
Railway
THE ROADS TO SANTIAGO

Royal French Road Coastal Road Other Roads

Estaca
Cabo Ortegal de Bares

Ortigueira
Cedeira Cervo
S
A Viveiro
T 549 Cabo de Peñas
L Cabo Prior Tapia C O
A S
de Casariego Candás T A
S Foz Cudillero Avilés V E R D E
A Ferrol Xistral Luarca
R I AG-64
As Pontes de 1033 Ribadeo 634
C
Neda García Rodríguez Navia 632 A-8 Gijón Cabo O S T
Pontedeume Castropol Pravia Colunga de Ajo A V A S C A Bayonne
Vilanova Villaviciosa
632
Ribadesella SANTANDER Cabo Orthez
Cabo de San Adrián de Lourenzá 1201 Cornellana A-66 "Cuevas de San Vicente Matxitxako
AP-9 Mondoñedo Boal Santillana Santoña Castro
A-8 Bermeo
F R A N C I A
634 Tito Bustillo"
Malpica Arteixo de la Barquera

Eo
A-64 Suances
Punta do Roncudo 634 Tineo Grado Arriondas Llanes 634 del Mar A-8
Urdiales Getxo Hondarribia
AG-55 Santa Eulalia Pola de AS-1
Laxe Cambre Betanzos Vilalba de Oscos OVIEDO Rí Langreo 634
Colombres A-8 Torrelavega Colindres Gernika-Lumo
Carballo
640 Allende Cangas
VI Parga o
Pola de de Onís Covadonga "Cuevas de Puente Limpias Zumaia Zarautz I Irún
595 550
Grandas
Narcea
Panes Altamira" A-67
Portugalete BILBAO Ainhoa P PAU

Río
Mieres Laviana Viesgo Oiartzun

Pi
Muxia Baamonde de Salime Cangas a 621 Ramales A-8

co
Pola Na
lón
625 s
de Europ Elgóibar Orio 121 121 I
A-6 Fonsagrada de Narcea C O PARQUE NACIONAL Peña Sagra de la Victoria Donestebe-
de Lena

via
Cabo Touriñán "Monasterio Sobrado DE LOS PICOS DE EUROPA Potes 2046 Arenas St. Jean-Pied-de-Port Oloron-Ste. Marie
Santa Comba R D Balmaseda Santesteban R

Na
de Santa María" do Monxes I L L E Fuente Dé de Iguña Durango Tolosa
Dumbria LUGO 1890 A Luzaide

S
Vilabade R A I C

o
R 623 Bergara
re 634 C A N T Á B Llodio AP-68 "San Salvador I

Rí
Sigüeiro mb Campomanes Valcarlos

O
240
Fisterra Ta Peña Prieta 611 Espinosa de C de Ibañeta"
AP-9 Castroverde Braña Caballo Riaño 2536
los Monteros Beasain S A-15 121 Orreaga-Roncesvalles N
641 2189 Puebla Embalse Espigüete Amurrio Arrasate A
SANTIAGO Arzúa 547 Melide

d e
Peña Ubiña Reinosa Aitzgorri V Lekunberri Auritz-Burguete E

o
Cabo de Riaño 2450 629 A-1

Rí
Degaña de Lillo

O
2417

s
Fisterra DE COMPOSTELA Lavacolla Palas de Rei Medina 1544 S 138

MIÑ
Embalse Pic d'Orhi
O

r e
Ulla Valdecebollas
T E Altsasu-

a
Muros "Santuario de Nuestra Villablino del Ebro
VITORIA- 2021
2136 de Pomar M O N

rr
630 Erro
Miravalle Cervera

a
Noia
Señora do Corpiño" Vila de Cruces Portomarín e
i n c
1969 Boñar RÍO
Alsasua S
Padrón Río Bandeira 640 Sarria Triacastela VI S A Palacios del Sil AP-66
de Pisuerga GASTEIZ 135 Zubiri
Ezcároz Isaba Urdos

ó n
Visaurin
Pedrafita

AINSA-SOBRARBE 59 km
685 540 Cistierna
640 AP-53 Silleda
ÍO Fabero Aguilar Trespaderne Argomaniz PAMPLONA Villava 2670
R Embalse O Cebreiro do Cebreiro La Robla 232
Armentia Aoiz
Vilagarcía 550 A Estrada Lalín Samos Rioseco Guardo de Campóo 623 Altotero Cizur Candanchú

L e
Ruitelán Miranda

Río
de Belesar Treviño

Esla
de Arousa Liñares de Tapia
1176 Legarda Canfranc
Ansó

Río
Sta. Uxia 525 Chantada Amaya de Ebro Cirauqui Obanos Monreal Lumbier 330
de Ribeira Caldas Bembibre 625 Poza de la Sal Río "San Salvador
AP-9
de Reis Dozón "Monasterio Cacabelos Almanza 1373
627 Pancorvo Estella Puente "Nuestra Señora de Leyre" Santa Cilia Villanúa

Río
Monforte Villafranca del Bierzo AP-68 Berdún

Carr
Cambados de Oseira"

e
A-6 de Eunate" de Jaca

R
541 111
de Lemos Villamayor de Monjardín la Reina Yesa 240
AP-1 Haro Biescas

ión
d
LEÓN

Í A
O Grove PONTEVEDRA San Cristovo Molinaseca Herrera de Briviesca Laguardia Los Arcos "Santa María la Real" Jaca
Ponferrada

Cea
232 Sangüesa Javier Puente la Reina
120
Saldaña Pisuerga 611 Villadiego

Ega
s 120 Viana

Pisuerga
de Cea EB
Astorga Santo Domingo

S
R ío
e Mansilla de I R O Torres del Río Tafalla de Jaca "San Juan
Marín O Carballiño Pobra 536
t Rabanal AP-71
Calzada de la Calzada Sos del
Sil
las Mulas A-231 LOGROÑO Olite Rey Católico
de la Peña" Sabiñánigo
n del Camino Hospital

B A
550 de Trives O Barco o VI del Coto Sahagún Osorno Sasamón San Juan Belorado Navarrete Gállego
Cangas Redondela de Órbigo A-66 A-231 Hornillos
Grañón AP-15
OURENSE M El Burgo Ranero
Lédigos
Carrión de
del Camino
Tardajos de Ortega
Nájera
I X A
Teleno los Condes Itero del Castillo 330

Río
Vigo Manzaneda
Ribadavia 1778 Peña Trevinca 2185 La Bañeza Quintanilla Itero de la Vega Hontanas Villafranca- 232 AP-68 Calahorra
120 120 Villalbilla 2077
A-52 2124 601
de la Cueza Castrojeriz Montes de Oca Clavijo 121
Baños de BURGOS

BARBASTRO 49 km
630 Villalcázar San Millán
S
Ponteareas Molgas Viana do Bolo Castrocontrigo Cervatos de de Sirga Bobadilla Sádaba
AG-57 A-55 Frómista de la Cogolla Arnedo Ayerbe

Río
Baiona Allariz 525 la Cueza del Camino A-1
Villanueva Alfaro

Bibey
Tui Sandiás Lago de Sanabria
611 A-62
de Cameros HUESCA

Órb
Ribadelago Río Villalón
Monçao Xinzo A Gudiña Amusco

igo
Valença Becilla de de Campos Ayedo Cintruénigo A-23
de Limia Monterrei A-52
525 Mombuey Camarzana Valderaduey Salas de 111 1719 Tudela Ejea de
Lubián Puebla los Caballeros
de Tera A-52 610 Ca
los Infantes Cebolla Almudébar

Río
1415 525 610 Río rrió
A Guarda 1755 de Sanabria Lerma n 2142 113
Verín Benavente
Corraes PALENCIA 121
232
532 1262 Magaz Vinuesa 330

S
Larouco Santo Domingo
Peña Mira Tauste Zuera

ie
1575 Tarazona
1238 de Silos S a

rr
Feces Tábara Villalpando Medina Dueñas Tórtoles de
122 AP-68
de Rioseco de Esgueva
234
Matute I l M Agreda Alcubierre
A-6 1419 S on Alagón
VIANA DO BRAGANÇA 631 630 601 A-62 San Leonardo T cay
Alcañices o
CASTELO Embalse de Esgu
e v a de Yagüe E 2313 Utebo
1256
a 122 Ricobayo Río SORIA M Ja
ló
n
eg Aranda

r
Sabo
âm Villanubla VALLADOLID A
BRAGA El Burgo

FRAGA 47 km
T de Duero 122
122 de Osma
234 ZARAGOZA
Gómara Alfajarín
P O R T U G A L

a
Miranda do Douro I

erv
ío
Toro Peñafiel AP-2

Hu
122 A-11 San Esteban 111 B II
ZAMORA

DU
Rubio Río
Tordesillas de Gormaz Almazán Cabrera É La Almunia de

ER
1313

Río
Ria 1433 A-2
Bermillo R ío z a Doña Godina

O
Cuéllar A-1
VILA REAL de Sayago Ayllón 330

R
A-62 Calatayud

RÍ

Du
601 110
Alaejos Belchite

ra

I
Ce

tón
Embalse de ga Cariñena
630

C
Río Almendra
Fonta Longa 620 Medina Riaza Alhama
ío 883
Peñausende del Campo Sepúlveda 232
R Fuentesaúco

O
PORTO A-6 de Aragón
Río

AVEIRO 80 km VISEU 70 km SALAMANCA 30 km SALAMANCA 36 km MADRID 96 km MEDINACELI 10 km TERUEL 109 km

Introduction 2

The Aragón Road 4

The Royal French Road 8

Navarre 12
La Rioja 17
Burgos 20
Palencia 25
León 27
Galicia 33

The Other Roads 38

The Coastal Road 38
The Eastern Road 43
The English Road 46
The Portuguese Road 47
Introduction

I n the year 813, in the land known as "world's end" in Galicia,

a hermit named Paio (Pelayo) discovered the tomb of Saint
James the Elder, “Son of Thunder”. According to the legends,
James (Santiago in Spanish) the Apostle came to Spain on a long
ministry to evangelize the northern part of the Iberian peninsula.
Later he was beheaded in Palestine and his body was placed by
two of his disciples in a stone boat which miraculously set sail
with no pilot, reaching the Galician coast. After journeying up the
Ulla river, the boat marooned at Padrón. After many vicissitudes,
the body was buried on mount Libredón. Little by little all was
forgotten until a bright star shone guiding the hermit to the field
where the saint was buried. With this lovely legend, it is no
wonder the Apostle's tomb has become a sacred goal of the
Christian religion since its discovery. A magnet, as strong as Rome
and Jerusalem at times, Compostela attracted pilgrims from all
over the world who wanted to follow the route of the stars of the
Milky Way to secure forgiveness for their sins. The Emperor
Charlemagne is considered by popular tradition to be the
inaugurator of the Jacobean Way.
The Road to Santiago (also called the Way of St. James) has
been declared a World Heritage Site, and in addition to spiritual
significance, it holds other historic values, such as having been the
backbone of European cultural unity. The routes to Compostela
started out in Sweden, Poland, the Low Countries, Ireland, Great
Britain and Turkey, and all of the branches merged in France to
continue on as a single road to Galicia. Pursuing the route of the
sun and the stars, this incessant stream of people that flowed
across the fields of the world received the name of “pilgrimage”
from the poet Dante. Human traffic intensifies each Jubilee year;
this is when the Apostle's Feast Day (July 25th) falls on a Sunday.
Hence, a Jacobean Holy year occurs every 6, 5, 6 and 11 years,
which will be in 2004, 2010, 2021, etc.

2
 A pilgrim undertakes this journey to search and find not only
himself but also others at each stage, each inn, and at each
monjoie (a small mound of stones marking each intersection) until
arriving at the Altar of the Apostle. Compostela is the final
destination of the adventure. This lovely thousand-year-old city is
the deserving goal and reward for the hardships endured on
Europe's most legendary pilgrimage.
The Pyrenees mountain chain is the real starting point of the
journey. The European pilgrimage routes converge in the
mountain passes: the Via Lemosina (from Vezelay and Limoges),
the Via Podiensis (Le Puy) and Via Turonensis (from Tours to
Bordeaux) reach the Pyrenees in Navarre, while the Via Tolosana
(Toulouse) leads to the mountain pass of Somport in Aragón.

l Modern-day
pilgrim
3
The Aragón Road

T he Via Tolosana ascends the Somport pass (1,632 m.) into

Spain from Toulouse, crossing the ancient region of Bearn. This
pass opens the way to Candanchú and Canfranc. Next to the
latter rises the castle known as Coll de Ladrones. Nothing is left
but the ruins of the fortress and what was once “Campus
Francus”, but other development projects have turned these
towns into famous winter resorts.
Rocky terrain alternates with asphalt along the route leading to
the well-preserved Jaca Castle, a 12th century fortification
which rises on the Pyrenees route and announces the approach to
the once powerful capital of the Kingdom of Aragón, Jaca.
Although many modern amenities can now be found, there is no
forgetting that in the 11th century Jaca was the birthplace of kings.
Its very soul is preserved in the grandiose Romanesque Cathedral
of San Pedro, extremely important during this period in history.
Within the cathedral, the Diocesan Museum houses an
extraordinary collection of priceless medieval painting
(Romanesque and pre-Gothic). The Church of Santiago, a
Benedictine Monastery and a medieval bridge are other examples
of the architecture recalling the past splendor of Jaca. But its
power lasted much longer, as evidenced by the Ciudadela
(citadel), a magnificent example of military architecture, built by
order of Philip II in the 16th century. Its characteristic pentagonal
shape can be seen from far off.
At the exit to the town, the Gothic stone bridge of San Miguel
marks the route towards the South, which a little later is

l La Ciudadela in Jaca (Huesca)

l Valley of Canfranc (Huesca)

confirmed by a cross. The difficult path that descends the

mountainside and traverses streams and rocky river beds is
compensated by picturesque mountain scenery. Appearing amid
the mountains is Santa Cilia de Jaca, a modest well-preserved
town which housed a monastery in the Middle Ages. Nearby, we
find the small town of Puente la Reina de Jaca, and a turnoff
goes to Berdún. Although the town’s origins have been lost in
time, it still maintains the character of a medieval hamlet with a
special attraction for visitors.
Avoiding the asphalt road, the pilgrim route continues by
Arrés, Mianos and Arteida. After crossing the Yesa reservoir, the
route approaches Sangüesa, a privileged town owing its
l Javier Castle in Sangüesa (Navarre)

prosperity to the pilgrim road. The town’s former political

relevance can be seen in its ensemble of monuments, from the
handsome mansions built by noble families lining the Rúa Mayor,
the finest of which is the Palace of the Prince of Viana, to the
religious architecture. The collegiate Church of Santa María la Real
deserves special mention. Here the image of “Santa María de
Rocamador” is venerated, a tradition introduced by the pilgrims
from the shrine of the same name in southern France. The Church
of San Francisco displays a notable Gothic cloister, while in the
Church of Santiago, an authentic array of Romanesque and
Gothic figures are depicted in Jacobean themes. Our attention is
also drawn to the polychrome tympanum of the south portal
depicting the Apostle in pilgrim attire with a profusion of cockle
or scallop shells. In addition to the singular constructions
throughout these lands, they have also been blessed with a
privileged landscape. And although this may require extra effort on
behalf of the pilgrimage walker, it also rewards the steadfast with
marvelous views, such as the one enjoyed from the Alto de Loiti,
which presides over the mountainous terrain looking East at the
gorge carved by the Irati river near Lumbier. Further ahead we pass

6
next to the Higa de Monreal; an impressive mountain in the form
of a cut-off cone with a panoramic view of the promising valleys
of Navarre announcing the proximity of Puente la Reina, where
we meet up with the French Road again. On our descent, we
come across another Gothic stone bridge from pilgrimage days.
Several kilometers before leaving the Aragón Road behind, the
ancient route leads the pilgrim to Nuestra Señora de Eunate, a
curious small church founded by the Templars. Its octagonal shape
recalls the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem. The
different sides draw our attention and are surrounded by unusual
open arches which also gave rise to the name (in the Basque
language, eunate means “one hundred doors”). Only Obanos is
left before travelers can reach one of the main goals. It is here in
this town where they say Saint James performed one of his most
famous miracles: the miracle of Saints Felicia and Guillén, also
called the Mystery of Obanos, in which an angel persuades the
pagan Count of Burgundy Guillén to repent his sins and embrace
the Jacobean faith and become a hermit. The promise of the
Apostle’s divine intervention encouraged pilgrims to continue their
journey, as well as the flat terrain and imminent merging with the
stream of people along the Royal French Road.

l Puente la Reina (Navarre)

The Royal French Road
The most traveled of the pilgrimage routes leading to
Santiago de Compostela is the Royal French Road which
joins the Vias Lemosina and Podiensis in the Pyrenees of
Navarre, as well as part of the Via Turonensis that prefers the
inland route to the coastal one.
Luzaide-Valcarlos and Orreaga-Roncesvalles are the first
towns in Navarre pilgrims encounter. These names bring back
memories of all the myths associating the Emperor Charlemagne
with the origin of the pilgrim road. In fact, penitents can follow
the steps of the famous emperor starting in Valcarlos, where it is
said that he camped after the defeat of his army at the hands of
the Moorish king of Zaragoza. Stories tell that after gathering up
the body of his nephew Roland and burying him, Charlemagne
fell to his knees at the Alto de Ibañeta where an angel showed
him the way of the stars as the only one leading to forgiveness.
An historiated cross marks the spot and “speaks” of that
moment, as well as hundreds of other small crosses that many
other devoted Christians have placed as they passed by.

l Luzaide-Valcarlos (Navarre)

8
l Church of Santiago in Orreaga-Roncesvalles (Navarre)

In the Pyrenees, the Carolingian imprint is everywhere and can

be observed along this entire itinerary in the geography (V-shaped
gorges that Roland is said to have slashed open with a blow from
his sword) as well as in the man-made structures, such as the
monasteries of San Salvador de Ibañeta, which once housed the
so-called Chapel of Charlemagne and the Hospital of Roland. We
must also add the most recent contributions, including a monolith
and an interesting collection of Roland’s weapons: the sword
called “Durendal” and a pair of war clubs in Ibañeta. At the foot
of a steep mountain, in the neighboring woodland town of
Roncesvalles, scene of the bloody battle chronicled in the Chanson
de Roland, Bishop Sancho de Larrosa was influenced by the
pilgrims’ interest in the mountainous Ibañeta in the Middle Ages.
Here he founded the Royal Collegiate Church of Nuestra Señora
de Roncesvalles, a building which although restored, shows clear
signs of its Gothic beginnings. It housed a hospital and channel
house for pilgrims called the Silo of Charlemagne, which
traditionally has been associated directly with the Carolingian
battle. The Renaissance-style chess set of Charlemagne is

9
l Erro (Navarre)

displayed in the Treasury. A little farther ahead, the road passes

next to the pilgrims' cross, a traditional votive monument.
When time permits, some travelers prefer to leave the
legendary road and take the one inaugurated by Napoleon.
It was said that Napoleon had wanted to avoid the same thing
happening to his troops as had befallen the rearguard
commanded by Roland, so he took advantage of the mountain
passes the shepherds followed in the spring. This is a stretch of
lovely countryside with magnificent views. The itinerary starts out
in the French town of Saint Michel Le Vieu and passes through a
beech tree forest in search of the Collado Lepoeder (1,440 m.)
From here, cutting through the mountains, you arrive at Poyo de
Roldán (the Spanish name for Roland) in the Alto de Ibañeta.
In addition to largely avoiding the modern roadway, this route
offers travelers the opportunity to relax and admire the majestic
Pyrenees mountains.
After having overcome the obstacle presented by the mountain
peaks, a second stage is initiated and leads towards the lands of
Pamplona. This wooded stretch is dotted with towns, such as the
seigniorial Auritz-Burguete and Erro with its Gothic chapel, as
well as other more modern ones, including Zubiri. In Larrasoaña,
an important past can be deduced by the ruins of the monastery
and the hospital. Travelers once again come upon some of the

10
artistic treasures the pilgrim road of St. James has to offer, as is
the case of Puente de los Bandidos, a modest town over the
Arga river. Medieval pilgrims often tried to avoid it, and this
contributed to the creation of myths, widespread and false, of the
dangers in Navarre. But time does not pass in vain, and modern-
day travelers know with certainty that they are stepping into one
of the most pleasant spots along the Jacobean geography.
The Zabaldika bridge announces the arrival at Arre, where
recent restoration efforts have reclaimed the ensemble called the
Trinidad de Arre with its church, bridge and pilgrim inn, in
addition to other traditional buildings, such as the mills next to the
river. A little further ahead, the town of Villava (home of the
world-famous cyclist Miguel Indurain) reminds travelers they are at
the gateway to one of the most hospitable stopping places, the
city of Pamplona.

l Pilgrim fountain in Orreaga-Roncesvalles (Navarre)

11
Navarre

Entering Pamplona (Iruña) should be done grandly as befits this

two thousand-year-old city that has preserved its age-old charm.
To begin with, the medieval bridge of Magdalena must be
crossed, a long-standing Jacobean tradition (cross with an image
of the Apostle to the side), to then continue skirting the ramparts.
Custom dictates that travelers first proceed to the cathedral,
where the doors of the Hospital of San Miguel were once open to
pilgrims. The French Gothic cathedral, with an elegant neoclassical
facade, was built over the ruins of a Romanesque church.
Of interest in the interior are the lovely Gothic cloister and
entranceway, as well as the ambulatory bordering the apse,
characteristic of pilgrim churches.
The rest of our visit to Pamplona takes us along the Calle de la
Curia to the beginning of the Calle Mayor, where the
Romanesque Church of San Cernin stands. Presiding over the
portal is a figure of the Apostle Saint James. The pilgrimages to
Santiago have made a lasting impression on this city. Its patron
saint is the “Virgen del Camino” (Virgin of the Roadway) (with a
chapel in the Jacobean Church of San Cernin) and figures of the
Apostle may be found in all of its temples, including the Church
of Santo Domingo (from the doorways to the high altarpiece).
On the other hand, the
modern-day pilgrim is given
precise indications for the pilgrim
route (arrows with stars) on signs
with the street names. The road
of St. James also passes in front
of the Church of San Lorenzo,
where we find the famous chapel
of San Fermín.
To leave Pamplona, the Vuelta
del Castillo that skirts the well-
preserved fortress of the
Ciudadela and the University
must still be crossed before
reaching the bridge over the
Sadar, where travelers can return
to their solitary wanderings.

l Pamplona’s Cathedral

12
l Pamplona

The route from the capital of Navarre is pleasant to walk and rich
in artistic treasures. Fine examples of Gothic architecture may be
seen in Cizur (Church of San Andres), Astrain and Legarda,
among others. We now reach the point where the two routes
(Navarre and Aragón) merge to form a single path known as the
Royal French Road, just outside the small town of Obanos, a
prelude to Puente la Reina.
Puente la Reina (literally queen's bridge) is entered by the
Calle Mayor, flanked with ancestral homes and mansions with
coffered ceilings. Also opening its doors is the Church of El
Crucifijo, which is connected to a pilgrim inn by a Gothic arch.
On the same street stands the Church of Santiago el Mayor, which
houses the celebrated sculpture of the Apostle St. James popularly
known as “el Beltza”. The Calle Mayor also provides the exit to
Puente la Reina by crossing the bridge that gives the town its
name, a lovely curved Romanesque construction consisting of six
arches.
Signs are strategically posted in all of Navarre and help pilgrims
to head in the direction of Estella with no problems. Small villages
can be found along the way. Cirauqui, a modest town perched
on a hillock, is a charming hamlet displaying medieval influences
in the design of the streets and the coats of arms adorning the

13
l Monastery of Irache l Church of Santa María in
Viana

houses. It would be worthwhile to take some time to stroll around

the town. Here we also find the Church of San Román,
Romanesque in origin with Cistercian influences, which still houses
a Roman altar. A modest bridge completes the artistic ensemble in
Cirauqui and leads us to a much restored Roman road which helps
us descend the hill.
Estella (Lizarra) is the next goal and has been called “the
Toledo of the North” because of the wealth of monuments.
Pilgrims should pass first by the Church of San Miguel in Excelsis,
a Romanesque temple with strong Gothic influences (late 12th
century). Of special interest is the North portal with fine sculptures
(Pantocrator, Saint Michael, etc.), as well as the Gothic altarpiece
in the interior. Continuing along the urban route, we pass by the
Renaissance fountain of La Mona before coming to the palace of
San Cristóbal (Plateresque facade) and the palace of the kings of
Navarre, one of the finest examples of civil Romanesque

l Church of San Miguel in Estella

l Los Arcos

architecture in the Iberian peninsula adorned with legendary battle

scenes. The lengthy list of monuments in Estella also includes the
parish churches of the Santo Sepulcro, San Pedro de la Rúa, Santo
Domingo, El Puy, etc. and concludes with the basilica of Nuestra
Señora de Rocamador.
With Estella, travelers leave behind the last big city in Navarre
and now proceed towards Logroño in the region of La Rioja. But
still, the rich fruit tree orchards and vineyards of the fertile Navarre
valley must be crossed. The first surprise on the next stretch is the
fountain of Irache. By its side is the lovely Visigothic Monastery of
Santa María la Real.
The main highway now coincides with the authentic pilgrim
road of St. James and skirts by towns with strong historic flavor,
such as the small fortified Carolingian Villamayor de Monjardín
(stories say it was taken by the emperor with the big beard), or
the Roman town of Los Arcos, a showcase of different
architectural styles. The Romanesque Church of Santa María
displays a Gothic tower and cloister and baroque ornamentation
in the interior.
In the Church in Torres del Río, the tradition of the octagonal
ground plan from the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in the Holy
Land reappears. Like the hermitage in Eunate, the temple of the

15
l Logroño’s Cathedral

Santo Sepulcro once had an enormous lantern in the top of the

tower which served as a “lighthouse” for the pilgrims.
In Viana, the pilgrim road bids farewell to Navarre. In this
fortified former border town, it is worthwhile to take a walk and
see the lovely Church of Santa María, basically Gothic in style
(tower, nave, aisles and vaults) with the later addition of a
baroque ambulatory and apse chapels. The spirit of Caésar Borgia
is said to wander through Viana. He was buried in the atrium of
Santa María although his remains are presently not accounted for.
A monument in his honor keeps the memory of this devotedly
religious man of his times from being forgotten.
The Hermitage of Las Cuevas (former 13th century pilgrim
hospital) and pine woods announce the proximity of a river and
with it, the entrance into La Rioja.

16
La Rioja

La Rioja is a small autonomy favored by history and nature, which

has played an important role in the formation of the Way of
St. James. It should not be surprising that the entrance into these
lands is so promising. After crossing the bridge providing access to
the region, the countryside unfolds into farmlands and orchards
bearing reminders of the tender vegetables (asparagus, artichokes
and bell peppers), the tasty fruits (cherries, pears, and peaches)
and the universally prestigious wines produced here. If any one of
these items could accompany a meal of roast lamb served in the
traditional manner, or at least some cold cuts from the mountains
(ham cured in paprika), the meal would certainly be a delight.
Logroño is entered by crossing the Ebro by a stone bridge. This
small city has grown as the road of St. James has needed it. Not in
vain, it has been said that La Rioja is the land most deeply rooted
in the traditions of the Jacobean route, as seen by the wealth of
monuments and the legends found here. A walk through the city
begins at Santa María del Palacio. Although built in the 10th
century, very little remains of the original structure. The most
remarkable feature is the spired tower known as “La Aguja”
(the needle), in addition to the Gothic transept and Renaissance
altarpiece and some 18th century frescoes with scenes from the
Passion of Christ. Nearby is the Cathedral of Santa María la
Redonda, a 15th century octagonal church erected over a medieval
one. The parish Church of San Bartolomé is older and of interest,
along with the primitive Gothic style, is the sculptured doorway
depicting St. Bartholomew, the finest of its kind in La Rioja.

l Monastery of Yuso in San Millán de la Cogolla

No truly Jacobean city could be without a church dedicated to
Saint James. In a southern portal, Santiago el Real displays a
modest Renaissance image of St. James the pilgrim, although this
is overshadowed by a monumental baroque sculpture of St. James
the Moor-slayer (Santiago Matamoros), a defiant figure on
horseback which recalls the battle in nearby Clavijo. The
hermitages and parish churches in Clavijo revere St. James’s
intervention in 844 when according to tradition, the Apostle
descended from the sky mounted on a white charger to fight
against the Moorish leader Abderrahman, leading the Christians
to victory.
The solitary fields of La Rioja reach to Navarrete. The
architectural remains of the former pilgrim hospital now serve as a
Gothic portal to the cemetery. On the road heading to Nájera,
travelers can still find reminders of the legendary French knight
Roland (Roldán in Spanish) in the town of Poyo Roldán.
Nájera is a good example of the close relationship between
political and spiritual forces in past centuries. The coastal route of
the Way of St. James was required to pass through here by order
of the king since Nájera was a Royal Court.
The Monastery of Santa María la Real, now pertaining to the
Franciscan order, has a magnificent cloister and a Royal Pantheon
of the kings and princes of Navarre and León and where the
remains of Blanca de Navarre (Queen of Sancho III and mother of
Alfonso VIII) were also laid to rest. It was also a refuge for
pilgrims, and in the interior, a miraculous image is worshipped.
Legend has it that one day a hunter pursued a dove that
disappeared into a hidden cave and found a statue of the Virgin
illuminated by an oil lamp, and at her feet the dove rested next to
a pot of lilies.
Miracles, Jacobean or not, are abundant in these lands
beginning in Clavijo and centered in Santo Domingo de la
Calzada, a nearby town, which can be reached either directly by

l Altarpiece in
Church of La
Asunción in
Navarrete

18
l Santo Domingo de la Calzada

following the pilgrim route or by letting yourself be driven by your

own curiosity as the pilgrims often did. In days of old, when
time was not a factor, the zealous had no problem with short
detours, past Azofra towards the monasteries of San Millán
de la Cogolla, Yuso and Suso, World Heritage sites, and also
the nearby one of Santa María de las Cañas, all at the foot
of the mountains. Pilgrims were not compelled by artistic
or historic curiosity as people are today. However, their religious
fervor as to the relics preserved in the sanctuaries was
extraordinary.
The plains lead us in the direction of Santo Domingo
de la Calzada. The entire town is the result of the work of
St. Dominic, a local hermit and primitive 11th century engineer
who spent his life building roads and bridges in the area to
facilitate the pilgrimage. The town is rather small but well-
endowed with old walls, a Roman road, the Casa del Santo, which
shelters travelers, and a Parador hotel to lodge the most
demanding visitors.
In the Cathedral of San Salvador, in addition to the Saint’s
tomb, the great curiosity is the live cock and hen kept in a cage to
commemorate one of the most celebrated miracles associated
with St. James protecting travelers. According to the stories, a hen
was roasted and came alive again to prove the innocence of a
young pilgrim wrongly accused of theft and thus, the saying goes:
“Santo Domingo de la Calzada,
where the hen crowed after being roasted”.
The town is exited by a stone bridge built by the saint, in order
to head in the direction of Grañón. This is the last town
pertaining to La Rioja and travelers can still delight in the mystic
arts that flourish in this region. In the interior of the parish church,
a fine Renaissance altarpiece can be admired.

19
l Santovenia de Oca

Burgos

Although the entrance into the region of Castile may seem

somewhat capricious (a sign in the middle of the pilgrim road), the
landscape soon reveals to travelers that they are stepping into a
land very different from the La Rioja lowlands. This is now the
province of Burgos, and from now on and through the small
towns, endless plains of grains unfold beneath the sun. A few
small red hills stand out on the flatlands and isolated towers of
parish churches proclaim the proximity of another town.
Occasionally, even before a tower can be distinguished, the long
silhouette of a stork is visible.
The sobriety of the landscape and the apparent
unpretentiousness of the towns should not be misleading because
beneath some of these stark exteriors, a treasure may be hiding.
This occurs in the first town, Redecilla del Camino. The church
houses a Romanesque baptismal font with Byzantine influences.
St. Dominic was baptized in another font in the Church of Viloria.
A little farther ahead, we enter into Belorado, an ancient
Jacobean town evidenced by the architectural remains, including a
bridge in ruins and the former Hospital of La Misericordia. It still
preserves the hermitage of Nuestra Señora de Belén, which rises

20
over ruins, and the churches of Santa María and San Pedro. In the
heart of the town, Belorado has an arcaded Plaza Mayor where
pilgrims can enjoy a refreshing rest.
The next stop is Villafranca de Montes de Oca. The name
recalls echoes of past splendor of when it was a bishop’s see. The
prestigious Hospital of San Antonio Abad has been abandoned to
its fate. Villafranca was also a point to be feared at times due to
the Oca mountains. Once a difficult journey because of the dense
underbrush, today this has been remedied and even constitutes a
pleasant stretch to travel for its diversity and cool temperatures,
providing only moderate difficulty at the Alto de la Pedraja (1,150 m.)
San Juan de Ortega is at the edge of the mountain chain.
Founded by the saint who gave it its name, the village was once
thronged with pilgrims. The proverbial hospitality continues in our
days with a large inn and a welcoming bowl of garlic soup for
new arrivals. San Juan is also credited with the origin of the
present monastery containing the saint’s shrine, as well as the
Renaissance chapel of San Nicolás de Bari. In the monastic church,
a curious Annunciation on a capital depicting the biblical scene is
illuminated at the beginning of spring, when a ray of light from a
small opening enters at dusk.

l San Juan de Ortega

21
 After leaving San Juan de Ortega, several alternatives are
possible, although perhaps it would be advisable to keep to the
traditional route. This is the route that traverses Agés, Atapuerca
(famous for its prehistoric archeological finds) and Cardeñuela.
The traveler finds himself once again before the vast plains of
Castile and León studded with woodlands, and only a short
distance from the busy city of Burgos.
There were towns that grew up because of the pilgrim road,
but the main Jacobean route was purposely designed to go to
Burgos. The old Castilian Royal Court was so important that its
monarchs were able to get the main route to reach this point even
though at first, the pilgrim road ran along the Cantabrian coast.
In the city of Burgos, pilgrims should begin by walking along
the route marked by tradition. Entrance is by the streets of Vitoria,
Covadonga and Las Calzadas, soon reaching the Plaza de San

l Burgos’
Cathedral
l Castrojeriz

Juan. Here stood one of the thirty hospitals that opened its doors
to shelter pilgrims; today converted into a cultural center
preserving only a Gothic doorway. Next door is the Gothic Church
of San Lesmes (St. Adelelmo was a saintly monk from the French
Abbey of Cluny). The church has a notable south doorway and a
Plateresque pulpit.
The Puerta de San Juan lets us continue on the streets of San
Juan, González Avellanos and Fernán González, situating us in
front of the cathedral. This impressive Gothic structure has an airy
lightness that belies its formidable size. This elegant Gothic
Cathedral of Santa María has been declared a World Heritage Site.
The artistic wealth is exemplified in the famous main facade with
its two characteristic towers topped by openwork spires. The
interior, well-illuminated by splendid stained glass windows, opens
upon a central nave with two aisles, an ambulatory and a lovely
octagonal central lantern.
When we depart Burgos and cross the stone bridge, called
Puente de los Malatos, which spans the Arlanzón river, a short
walk will lead to the Hospital del Rey. This was the most important
hospital on the pilgrim route together with the one in
Compostela. Of special interest are the fine examples of the
Plateresque style (portal) and a profusion of Jacobean images
beginning with the sculptured doorway. The Monastery of Las
Huelgas Reales is found nearby.
Oblivious to the asphalt road and the passing of centuries, the
pilgrim route continues from Hornillos to Hontanas and then
runs parallel to the dried-up river bed of the Garbanzuelo.

23
Soon we come upon the romantic ruins of the Convent of San
Antón. The religious order is no longer in existence, but for
centuries it enjoyed a certain prestige because it was said that
they knew how to cure gangrene.
Castrojeriz is a typical example of a pilgrim road town. The
two kilometers bordering the pilgrimage road include shops, a
collegiate church dedicated to the Virgen del Manzano (with
important Romanesque and Gothic elements, such as a rose
window and portals), a Plaza Mayor, the Church of Santo
Domingo (exhibiting Flemish tapestries with designs by Rubens)
and the traditional hall-church of San Juan.
The upcoming stretch to Frómista (the next staging point) holds
a surprise; a climb to the Colina de Mostelares (1,400 m.) whose
ascent, peak and descent mark each crossing. From high up, Itero
del Castillo can be seen, the last town in the province of Burgos,
and the Pisuerga river, which indicates the entrance to Palencia.

l Church of Santa María la Blanca in Villalcázar de Sirga

24
Palencia

Leaving Itero del Castillo, the eleven-arched stone bridge of Fitero

marks the route that must now be taken across the fertile land of
Tierra de Campos from Itero de la Vega to Frómista.
Itero de la Vega, a riverside town, has a modern inn, in addition
to the classic Hermitage of La Piedad with a figure of the Apostle
St. James. Next is Bobadilla del Camino, artistically more relevant
for its Isabelline stone pillar (called a rollo) and its notable
Renaissance church.
The famous French pilgrim chronicler, Aymeric Picaud
concluded his sixth stage with the arrival at Frómista. A halt here
in a pilgrim's journey was brought about more often by the
Church of San Martín than out of any sensation of weariness.
This graceful church is an unparalleled example of Romanesque
architecture and presents a mixture of simplicity and richness of
forms typical of this particular style. Remains of the Jewish quarter
can be seen nearby in a synagogue. The fervor of the pilgrims can
also be felt in the former Hospital of Palmeros and in the
Renaissance Hospital of Santiago. Also in the surprising little town
of Frómista, we find the Gothic churches of San Pedro, Santa
María del Castillo, and Santiago.

l Church of San Martín in Frómista

 l Church of Santa María
del Camino in Carrión
de los Condes

Villalcázar de Sirga surprises travelers with a huge temple

consecrated to Santa María la Blanca. In the interior, there is an
array of styles visible, from the impressive Gothic tombs to
Renaissance sculptures, and even Visigothic elements.
The next stop is Carrión de los Condes. The Calle de Santa
María passes at the entrance by the ancient Church of Santa
María del Camino and in the center of the town, by the
Romanesque Church of Santiago. The remarkable carved frieze
above the doorway has been considered to be among the best
Jacobean art along the pilgrim route. A walk down by the river
allows us to see, from the other side, the beauty of the
Romanesque Monastery of San Zoilo. The tombs inside compete
with the Renaissance cloister for our attention.
The pilgrim road follows the highway to the river and
afterwards passes through farmland letting us view the nearby
reddish tablelands of the surrounding countryside. These are
moments meant for solitude and meditation where travelers can
learn to appreciate the simple beauty of the land wherever it may
be. Following the highway, to the left are the towns of Calzada
de los Molinos (the striking images of St. James in its Mudejar
church are definitely worth seeing), Cervatos de la Cueza and
Quintanilla de la Cueza (Roman remains). Calzadilla de la
Cueza is the next town, reached either by the path or the paved
road. Its name refers to the Roman way that crossed through the
town.
Next we have Ledigos, Terradillos de Templarios, Moratinos
and San Nicolás, making this brief stretch to the border with
León a pleasant journey with brick buildings and modest parish
churches along the way.

26
León

Upon arrival in the province of León, travelers come to a

crossroads. However, a pedestrian path to the right leads to the
bridge over the Valderaduey river which serves as the border. At
the other end, the Hermitage of the Virgen del Puente opens onto
the town of Sahagún, the first of a series of towns that has played
a large role in the traditions of the Jacobean route, as well as in
the history of Spain.
The town of Sahagún grew up around a Cluniac abbey
dedicated to San Facundo (hence the town's name). From those
glorious days, only some remains are preserved today, including
the arch of San Benito and the Torre del Reloj (clock tower). But
although the town felt the effects of the abandoned abbey, the
splendor of a bygone era can still be seen in the Mudejar
Romanesque styles of some of its temples: the Chapel of San
Mancio and the shrine of La Peregrina (the image of the Virgin is
now in the Benedictine museum) are perhaps the best examples,
but the Churches of San Tirso and San Lorenzo are also good
illustrations.
The pilgrim route, which descends towards the Cea River and
then crosses it, abandons the highway at Calzada del Coto. Here
there is a fork in the route: the route called the Calzada de los
Peregrinos follows the rocky solitary Roman road to the right,
while the Royal French Road to the left crosses the towns of
El Burgo Ranero and Reliegos, where both routes join together to
proceed to Mansilla de las Mulas. The French Road has a larger
number of rest stops along this way.

l Arch of San Benito in Sahagún

 The walls encircling Mansilla de Mulas speak of a time when
the town was strong and strategically important. These were years
of continuous territorial battles, and the town on the banks of the
Esla river built thick strong walls for protection. Mansilla once
housed a monastery and seven churches within its walls crowned
by battlemented towers and enclosed by four gates. Only two
gates are preserved, called Arco de la Concepción and Arco de
San Agustín (the pilgrim route to leave town).
From now and until reaching the city of León, capital of the
province, the land is scattered here and there with historic
remains. As an example, in the vicinity of Villamoros, there is a
castro (an Astur fortification the Romans conquered in the first
years of our era). A little further ahead, we cross the curved
bridge of Villarente spanning the Porma. The bridge is so large
that it has seventeen arches from different periods. At the other
end of the bridge, a pilgrim hospital is still standing.

l Bishop’s Palace in Astorga

 Only Archajuela and Valdelafuente separate the traveler from
León now, but first the Alto del Portillo (1,200 m.) awaits,
marked by a modern cross. From here, the imposing towers of the
Cathedral of León are visible. The descent from the mountain ends
at the Castro bridge, and after crossing the Torío river, our journey
leads into the Jewish quarter. We are now in the city of León.
The traveler will never really know for sure if the importance of
the Courts attracted the pilgrim road or if the road itself is what
shaped the capital of the former Kingdom of León. But what we
do know for certain is that the pilgrimage route to Compostela
travels through the capital of the former Kingdom of León just as
it did through Castile, Navarre, and Aragón. Furthermore, in the
case of León, the capital was disputed first between Oviedo and
later between Burgos.
But thanks to its own efforts, the Kingdom of
León became prosperous and powerful,
still evident in the city we see a
thousand years later. We begin by
crossing the bridge over the Torío
river, and should continue on the
Calle Alcalde Miguel Castaño to the
Plaza de Santa Ana. The Calle
Barahona leads to the ramparts,
and within the walls we find the Plaza del Mercado. On this
square stands the Romanesque temple of the patron saint, Santa
María del Camino, which received pilgrims at the south door
called the Puerta del Perdón (Door of Pardon). The cobbled streets
lead to the Cathedral of Santa María de Regla, considered the
finest example of the Gothic style in the Iberian peninsula.
The stained glass windows are beyond compare. The cathedral
was erected over the site of ancient Roman baths and later
constructions (Romanesque and Mozarab). The devout would
most certainly have passed through the magnificent ambulatory to
reach the Chapels of Santiago and the Virgen Blanca.
Before departing via the Calle de la Abadía to regain the
Jacobean route, it would be an excellent idea to linger a little
longer in the city to visit some of the other exceptional sights.
Only this way can we be sure to see the Calle de la Rúa with its
handsome mansions on both sides and further ahead the striking
building called Casa de los Botines by the world-famous architect
Antonio Gaudí.
The Calle de Renueva, outside the walls, leads to the Convent
of San Marcos (now a luxury Parador hotel), as well as the pilgrim
hospital. In front of the building, there is a majestic cross from the
Alto del Portillo, which in spite of its beauty, still cannot eclipse
the superb Renaissance facade of the convent.

l Collegiate Church of San Isidoro in León

30
l Sanctuary of the
Quinta Angustia
in Cacabelos

Pilgrims must cross the San Marcos bridge over the Bernesga
river to leave the city and continue towards the lands of the
Páramo. The halfway point of this stretch is marked by the tower
of a modern temple, the shrine of the Virgen del Camino with
spectacular bronze sculptures by Subirachs. Past San Miguel de
Camino, the wide plains of the Páramo begin. Today their
harshness is mitigated somewhat by irrigation channels and
cornfields. Next is Hospital de Órbigo, a pleasant town we get
to by crossing the famous bridge of Paso Honroso, scene of the
Honorable Passage of Arms, a name acquired in 1434 when
knights jousted here for the love of a maiden.
The high plateau in the lands of La Maragatería lets us see the
lovely town of Astorga in the distance. A Roman bridge over the
Tuerto river announces a town with a strong Latin tradition.
Numerous remains of the former Roman town Asturica Augusta
are found in the center of town. Here also rises the Gothic
convent of San Francisco and the Hospital of the Cinco Llagas.
Our walk continues to the arcaded Plaza Mayor, where the Town
Hall stands with a curious clock displaying two figures in
traditional Maragato dress which strike the hour.
In the vicinity, we find the Late Gothic Cathedral of Santa María
with a profusion of stained glass windows and sculptured scenes
(including the heroic Maragato figure Pero Mato from the battle of
Clavijo). Nearby, the Bishop's palace exhibits a very different style by
the Catalan architect Antonio Gaudí. This palace houses the Museo
de los Caminos (a museum of the Roman and pilgrim roads.)

31
 On our approximation to the region of Galicia, the low
mountains of León guide us from Rabanal del Camino to the
mining town of Ponferrada. Along this stretch of the road,
travelers will encounter one of the most interesting Jacobean
customs, the monjoies, also known as milladoiros in the
northwestern part of the peninsula; in the Puerto de
Foncebadón, a cross on a mound of rocks marks the route and
invites travelers to make their contribution to the pile. From the
heights of the mountain pass (1,517 m.), there is a magnificent
view of the fertile highlands of the Bierzo.
In the vicinity of Ponferrada, the charming village of
Molinaseca draws our attention to the chapel of Las Angustias
and other well-preserved monuments, including a Roman bridge
and arcaded streets with handsome old mansions. The Hermitage
of San Roque marks the exit from Molinaseca and the imminent
entrance into Ponferrada.
Ponferrada is an old mining town steeped in history. From the
memory of the first bridge reinforced with iron (Pons Ferrata) to
the castle of the Knights Templar, everything is a reminder of a
defensive past. The well-preserved castle exterior no longer hides
any mysteries (three walls, twelve towers, etc.) Further below in
the old quarter, we find the Hospital of La Reina, a Renaissance
inn near the Church of San Andrés which houses the figure of
Christ of the Templars. Ready to leave, pilgrims will have to pass
by the basilica of the Virgen de la Encina (lovely baroque tower)
alluding to a miraculous apparition.
The next stretch passes amid the fertile fields of the Bierzo and
soon reaches Cacabelos. In addition to lending its name to the
wines of the area, the town also houses the Church of Nuestra
Señora de la Plaza, as well as an interesting Archeological Museum.
At the end of this stretch of the pilgrim road is Villafranca del
Bierzo. A pilgrim too ill or who was prevented by other valid
reasons from completing this pilgrimage to Compostela could gain
the same indulgences here and avoid the rest of the journey.
As might be expected, there is a Romanesque Church of Santiago,
with the ever-present Puerta del Perdón (Door of Pardon). Nearby,
the Convent of San Francisco (the monks produce their own wine)
presides over the descent to the old quarter, where the streets are
lined with beautiful ancestral mansions. Toward the other side, we
find a round-towered castle with iron gates and robust walls.
As pilgrims cross the turbulent Valcarce river leaving the fertile
fields of cherries behind, they step into highlands to wind through
mountains until Ruitelán in preparation for the last great
confrontation: the conquest of the region of Galicia via
O Cebreiro.
Galicia

And finally Galicia, the land that shelters the human remains of
the Apostle St. James. Fertile mountainous terrain, harsh at times,
but always gratifying, as pilgrims can verify when from the Alto de
Pedrafita they bear left and continue climbing to arrive at
O Cebreiro. This village preserves some typical pallozas (primitive
thatched-roof stone dwellings), some inhabited until recently.
A modern palloza belongs to one of the rural tourism
establishments in the town. Another older one has been
converted into a museum, which opens mornings and afternoons,
with free admission.
In O Cebreiro, it is compulsory to visit the church housing a
Holy Grail in which the wine and hosts were transformed into the
blood and Body of Christ, a miracle that took place around the
year 1300. The church bells also chimed during the winter to
orient the pilgrims in the fog. A stop at the inn of San Giraldo de
Aurillac is a must, without a doubt the most visited one since
Roncesvalles. It has been open since the 11th century, with an
interruption of a little more than a hundred years.
Next we head for Liñares (lovely unpretentious temple of Santo
Estevo, which once belonged to the monks of O Cebreiro) and
continue climbing to the Alto de San Roque first, and then to O
Penedo, in order to reach Hospital, Padornelo (Pinguela fountain

l Primitive “pallozas” in O Cebreiro

33
l Convent of La Magdalena in Sarria l Church of Santiago

and the Church of San Xoán) and still farther up Poio at

1,335 m.
Now at last, the time has come to go down. Through Fonfría
(which also had a hospital) and Biduedo (chapel dedicated to St.
Peter), we descend to Triacastela, and here a succession of hills
begins, with signposts to keep us from losing the way.
At last we have finished the eleventh stage of the Codex
Calixtinus, generally considered to be the first travel guide. It was
written by Aymeric Picaud, the French cleric, and describes the
glories and hardships of the journey to the shrine of Compostela. In
the days of Alfonso IX, it received a strong impetus. The town has a
church reconstructed at the end of the 18th century over another
Romanesque one of which the apse and buttresses are still standing.
The easiest route goes through A Balsa (hermitage) and
San Xil. Another equally traveled route but a somewhat longer
one goes by the massive Monastery of Samos. Here a hermitic
community, favored by the religious hierarchy, built an abbey that
eclipsed the rest of the town. The well-known erudite Benito
Feijóo resided and taught in Samos. Better known as Father
Feijóo, he was born in the 17th century in the Galician province of
Ourense and formed an important part of Galician history. The
monastery almost burned down in the beginning of the second
half of the 20th century. Fortunately, it was rebuilt and pilgrims can
still visit its two cloisters: Feijóo and Nereidas.

34
in Barbadelo l Pórtico de la Gloria.
Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

One branch or the other leads to Sarria, a city founded by

Alfonso IX with the name of Vilanova de Sarria. In one of life's
paradoxes, the king lost his life here when he passed through on
his way to Compostela. A stop is recommended in order to admire
the castle, the Convent of La Magdalena, the Churches of Santa
Mariña and El Salvador, and why not take some time to browse at
the local antique shops.
From here we go to Barbadelo (a church with a notable
facade and Romanesque towers), passing afterwards through
Morgade (interesting fountain and the remains of a hermitage),
Mirallos (temple which was moved here in the 18th century from
another location by the inhabitants) and Vilachá.
Next is Portomarín. The old town was submerged beneath the
waters of the Belesar reservoir. The new town, although not as
charming as the older one, preserves the same church on the
highest point of a hill that once stood in the valley. The Church is
devoted to San Nicolás and the battlements on the upper portion
of the structure recall a time when the cross and the sword were
not rivals.
Leaving Castromaior with its Romanesque temple and
Vendas de Narón with the Hermitage of La Magdalena behind
us, we come to Palas de Rei, a prelude to the town whose
historic center has enjoyed special protection throughout
centuries, Melide. A tour of the city is warranted to see the

35
l Pilgrim refuge in Portomarín

chapel of San Roque (at the entrance) with a transept considered

for decades to be the oldest in Galicia. Afterwards, the Museum
da Terra de Melide should be visited to then proceed to the Plaza
del Convento, where the Church of San Pedro (fine medieval
sarcophagi) and the 17th building housing the Town Hall stand.
At the exit of the town, the 12th century Church of Santa María
points in the direction of the pilgrim road which descends to the
peaceful valley of the Iso river. There we find a medieval bridge
and the Hospital of San Antón.
We now walk along the streets of the cheese capital called
Arzúa with the Gothic Church of La Magdalena and the Church
of Santiago. Lying ahead is the last stretch before we reach
Compostela. We should not expect grandiose monuments here
but small villages instead, in addition to the fountain of the
Francés and the pazo (country manor) of San Lázaro at the exit of
Arzúa. There is another beautiful fountain in Santa Irene with a
chapel from the early 18th century. There are no longer steep
inclines, and thus we arrive at Lavacolla, where the pilgrims
washed in the river before finishing the last descent leading to
Monte do Gozo. From here, it is possible to distinguish the
silhouette of the towers of the Cathedral of Santiago.
In the center of Santiago de Compostela, we make our way
on the Rúa de San Pedro to the Porta do Camino, and then go up
the Rúa de Casas Reais until reaching the Plaza de Cervantes,
where long ago they once held a busy market. Pilgrims now find
themselves in the historic quarter of Santiago, within the now
vanished walls, and a few steps from the Azabachería facade on
the street of the same name. If pilgrims have come in a Jubilee
year (when the Apostle's Feast Day of July 25th falls on a Sunday),
the Santa Ana gate in the apse will be open. Declared a World
Heritage Site, the impressive Cathedral houses the silver coffer
with the remains of Saint James. We must not leave the premises
without fulfilling the age-old rituals of touching the columns on

36
the Pórtico de la Gloria (a masterpiece of European Romanesque
art), or knocking our head against the statue of master-craftsman
Mateo (author of the Pórtico) or embracing the bust of St. James
(over the altar). Now the pilgrimage will definitely have been
worthwhile.

l Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

The Other Roads

A ll roads led to Compostela. Although the most well-traveled

route was the French Road, there were many others
originating from all over the Iberian peninsula, and they formed
deviations that ran through diverse lands. These routes opened up
new pathways far from the masses and have provided an
opportunity to see other lesser known places and monuments of
unquestionable beauty and historic value.

The Coastal Road

Of all the reasons to undertake this route, the ones most often
cited are those of the celebrated French pilgrim Aymeric Picaud,
who only tried to avoid the dangerous lands of Navarre. However,
given the hospitality and attractive countryside found in this
region, we must also remember that the first pilgrims who
traveled to Compostela dared only venture along the coast
because these were the only areas at peace in the turbulent
period of the first millennium. This was generally the case until
l Tolosa (Guipúzcoa)

Burgos became a Royal Court. In addition, on the route to

Santiago, pilgrims were always in search of the protection of new
relics, and many of them were located in the Astur Kingdom.
For many different reasons, a large number of pilgrims journeyed
to the Apostle’s resting place from Bayonne, France crossing the
Basque Country, Cantabria and Asturias.
The Iberian peninsula would be entered at Irun, which had a
pilgrim hospital. From there, the Bidasoa was crossed by a
wooden bridge, replaced now by a more modern one. Although
not on the Jacobean route, the proximity of Donostia-San
Sebastián is a good reason to see this lovely city. In Hondarribia,
the Hermitage of Santiago, along with the rest of the historic-
artistic ensemble, can be admired.

l Zumaia (Guipúzcoa)
l San Julián de los Prados l Monastery of El Salvador
in Oviedo (Asturias) in Vilar de Donas (Lugo)

From Oiartzun, a detour from the main route through Tolosa

and Vitoria-Gasteiz went to Burgos. On this journey, special
attention is warranted at the towns of Armentia, Miranda de
Ebro and the monumental Briviesca.
But the route continued along the Basque coast via Orio,
where the Hermitage of San Martín de Tours still stands. In
Zarautz, the Church of Santa María la Real houses the “tomb of
the pilgrim”, according to tradition. The route proceeded from
Zumaia to Guernika-Lumo, where a baroque hospital that
shelters pilgrims is still standing. Bilbao was the next stop, a
traditional Jacobean town, with its Cathedral of Santiago built
over another temple. Here the Gate of the Pilgrims can be found.
The popular shrine of the Virgen de Begoña should not be
overlooked.
All along the coast of the Basque Country, hospices for pilgrims
and hermitages devoted to the Apostle, as well as Jacobean
sculptures (such as Santiago Matamoros of Santa María de
Portugalete) can be found.
In the region of Cantabria, examples are just as plentiful.
Among them, the ones in Santoña (old hospital in addition to the
Late Gothic Church of Santa María del Puerto) must be
mentioned. Not too far away, the hospitable town of Santander
can be found. Along with the treasures of religious architecture
(the cathedral was erected over the temple of the Cuerpos
Santos), the charming city itself has to be mentioned. The palace
of La Magdalena must not be overlooked.
A short distance away from the town of Santillana del Mar, a
historic-artistic ensemble itself, the prehistoric caves of Altamira
are located. In addition, the Romanesque collegiate Church of

40
Santa Juliana is a landmark for those heading towards the French
road at Frómista.
San Vicente de la Barquera, a border town, preserves two
hospitals that housed pilgrims long ago. Here Asturias is entered.
In addition to the hospital at the modest harbor town of Llanes,
there is the Romanesque Monastery of San Salvador de Celorio to
see before going to Ribadesella (Churches of Santa María
Magdalena and Nuestra Señora de la Guía; Tito Bustillo cave).
The mountains signal the proximity of Oviedo. The capital of
the Asturian Kingdom was a preferred goal for many pilgrims.
The attractions included the Cathedral of San Salvador, whose
incalculable artistic wealth only finds an echo in the pre-
Romanesque temples situated in the surrounding area. The influx
of travelers created a deviation that went to Oviedo from León,
crossing the Puerto de Pajares (pass). From the site of the Royal
Asturian Court (which helped spread the idea of the Way of St.
James throughout the world), the western route was regained by
two alternatives: the first went down through Los Oscos until
reaching Grandas de Salime, crossing the port of Acebo to get
to the lands of Galicia via Fonsagrada. It later descended to
Castroverde (Church in Vilabade and Church of Santiago in
Castroverde) and Vilar de Donas in the vicinity of Lugo. The other
alternative took the Puerto de La Espina (pass) from where the
Galician border was reached by crossing the Eo river by boat from
Castropol.
Ribadeo (the Romanesque chapel of the Virgen del Camino;
artistic buildings such as the Pazo de los Moreno), the first

l Mondoñedo (Lugo)
l Church of Santiago and crosses in Baamonde (Lugo)

Galician town, received in its harbor the pilgrims coming from the
North. They continued along the coast until Foz (Church of
Santiago), but not without first passing by the incredibly beautiful
beach of As Catedrais.
In Foz, the route proceeded inland to Vilanova de Lourenzá
(Monastery of Santa María de Vilanova: tomb of Count Santo),
through the mountains, arriving at the monumental Mondoñedo,
today a lovely ensemble of monuments. The descent towards
Vilalba (Church of San Roque, Ethnographic Museum, Tower of
the Counts of Andrade) led to Baamonde (Church of Santiago,
crosses and a modern sculptural grouping).
A medieval bridge in the old Parga would set the pilgrim on
the way to Sobrado dos Monxes, where an imposing Cistercian
monastery (Santa María) stands, a compendium of architectural
styles. Next is Arzúa (Church of Santiago and pilgrim hospital)
where the French Road can be joined.

42
The Eastern Road

This route originated in the southern part of Spain and proceeded

through Extremadura, Salamanca and Zamora to the lands of
Ourense. It coincided with the Silver Route, the Roman
communications route that ran from Seville to Astorga and then
to Cantabria.
This route could begin at any point in southern Spain. However,
many situate the starting point in the city of Seville (Convent of
the Order of Santiago). From here the route would pass through
Zafra, Mérida (Extremeñan capital of the Order of Santiago;
extensive Roman architectural remains) and the monumental city
of Cáceres until reaching Plasencia (Church of Santiago de las
Batallas).
In any event, Salamanca was the chief congregation point of
this route. Here, branches came together from Ávila (through
Peñaranda de Bracamonte and Alba de Tormes) and from
Extremadura, heading North from different southern locations.
Salamanca is an historical-monumental city. Meriting special
attention are the two cathedrals (Catedral Vieja and Catedral
Nueva), as well as the University, the old quarter and a church
devoted to Santiago.
Zamora is a monumental city (Church of Santiago and other
edifices of the same religious order; pilgrim hospitals). A little

l Plasencia’s Cathedral
(Cáceres)
further ahead, a fork in the road leads to Astorga via Benavente
(Church of Santiago and Hospital Order) or either continues
through the mountainous lake region of Puebla de Sanabria
towards Ourense.
Galicia is entered by crossing the pass called Puerta de A Canda
(shrine in Lubián), and shortly A Gudiña is reached (Church of
San Martiño). The plains lead to Verín, joining up with another
branch originating in the Portuguese town of Chaves. The modern
town is overlooked by medieval fortifications, including the castle
of Monterrei, and the Romanesque church devoted to Santiago.
The ruins of the pilgrim hospital near the castle are easily
identifiable.
The route coincides with the highway until Xinzo de Limia
and skirting the dried-up lagoon of Antela (legends tell of a
submerged city at the bottom), leaves behind Sandiás (Flemish
paintings in Santo Estevo) and ascends to Allariz. Birthplace of
kings, this city has a magnificent historic-artistic ensemble, also
considered of great ethnographic value. Of interest is the
Romanesque Church of Santiago and the civil architecture (Jewish
quarter and bridge).
The route crosses a thermal fault in Santa Mariña de
Augasantas (Romanesque Church of Santa María; in the vicinity a
temple and anthropomorphic tomb) and continues towards
Ourense.

l University and “New Cathedral” of Salamanca

44
l Allariz (Ourense)

The capital of the province has a long Jacobean tradition which

materializes in the cathedral doorway (almost a twin to the Pórtico
de la Gloria in Compostela). The entire old quarter of Ourense
is a lovely historic-artistic monumental complex, and this beauty
is further enhanced by the Churches of Santiago and the Convent
of San Francisco (Gothic cloister). The Roman origins of the city
derive from the thermal springs of As Burgas. And although this
means a detour from the designated route, before leaving these
lands, it would be worthwhile to visit the monasteries of the
gorge of the Sil river: Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil and San Pedro
de Rocas.
The route to Santiago goes from Ourense to San Cristovo de
Cea (the best bread in Galicia is made here, and nearby is the
historic-artistic Monastery of Oseira). A few kilometers away is
Dozón (a former Benedictine abbey and now a Romanesque
church) and Silleda (nearby, the sanctuary of Nosa Señora do
Corpiño in Vila de Cruces and a little further ahead, the ruins of
the Monastery of Carboeiro).
The cross at Bandeira precedes arrival at A Granxa
(Pre-Romanesque church and Mons Illicinus of Jacobean legend), a
symbolic stone’s throw from Pico Sacro; towers of the Cathedral
of Santiago can be seen from the summit.

45
The English Road

This is the name of the route taken by the pilgrims from the
British Isles to the ports in northwest Galicia and from there by
foot to Compostela. The road reached its peak of popularity
starting in the 14th century.
From the port of O Parrote in A Coruña, the pilgrims set out
for the Romanesque collegiate church of Santa María and the
Church of Santiago to ascend to the Alto de Eirís. They often
traveled to O Burgo, which was also another landing point. In
Cambre is the church with an ambulatory and baptismal font
which tradition says was brought from the Holy Land. The route
continued through Sigrás, Calle and Bruma where it joined up
with the branches from the ports of Ferrol and Neda.
Pilgrims having trekked to one of these two towns, crossed the
bridge over the Eume and headed to medieval Pontedeume
(tower of Andrade, Church of Santiago). Via Perbes, they arrived
at San Martín de Tiobre (Romanesque temple) and passed over
the Ponte Vella bridge to get to the town of Betanzos (historic-
artistic ensemble; notable Romanesque Church of Santiago).
Through Requián, they reached Bruma, a meeting point with the
branch from A Coruña.
From here, the route continued south and crossed the Tambre
through Sigüeiro, near San Marcos, where it met the French Road
to enter into Compostela.

l Church of San Francisco

in Betanzos (A Coruña)

46
l Main façade. Tui’s Cathedral (Pontevedra)

The Portuguese Road

The Portuguese were also familiar with the phenomenon of

pilgrimages to Santiago. Instead of following a single route,
however, they set out from various points to meet either in
Chaves, where they went to Verín and connected with the Silver
Route, or in Valença do Minho. Those who chose the second
alternative crossed the Miño in boats and ended up in Tui or
nearby (there is still a village called Hospital) and proceeded North
through Pontevedra and Padrón.

47