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Vehicle Service Info

The following publishers have manuals containing diagnostic information for electronic engine control and ignition systems. Contact the publishers for availability and pricing, specifying the make, model and year of your vehicle. Some manuals may be available at auto parts stores or your local public library.
Vehicle Service Manuals

Chilton Book Company Chilton Way Radnor, PA 19089 Cordura Publications Mitchell Manuals, Inc. Post Office Box 26260 San Diego, CA 92126 Haynes Publications 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park, CA 91320 Motors Auto Repair Manual Hearst Company 250 W. 55th Street New York, NY 10019
Suitable manuals have titles such as: Electronic Engine Controls Fuel Injection and Feedback Carburetors Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Controls Emissions Control Manual ... or similar titles.
Vehicle Service Manuals from General Motors Corporation

Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, GEO, GMC, Oldsmobile & Pontiac Helm Incorporated Post Office Box 07130 Detroit, MI 48207 Saturn Adistra Corporation c/o Saturn Publications 101 Union Street
Vehicle Service Manuals from Ford Motor Company (Ford, Lincoln, Mercury)
Ford Publication Dept. Helm Incorporated Post Office Box 07150 Detroit, MI 48207
Vehicle Service Manuals from Toyota, Honda, Nissan

Toyota Motor Corporation Toyota Service Publications 750 W. Victoria Street Compton, CA 90220-5538 Honda Motor Co., Ltd. Helm Incorporated Post Office Box 07280 Detroit, MI 48207 Nissan North America, Inc. Dyment Distribution Service c/o Nissan 20770 Westwood Drive Strongsville, OH 44136
Vehicle Service Manuals from Chrysler Corporation

Chrysler Corporation Dyment Distribution Service Post Office Box 360450 Strongsville, OH 44136
Post Office Box 1000 Plymouth, MI 48170
Index
Section
Vehicle Service Information ...................... Inside front cover Safety Precautions ............................................................... ii
1 2
Tester Basics ............................................. 1-1 Testing Sensors .......................................... 2-1

Troubleshooting Tips .......................................... 2-1 Engine Coolant Temperature .............................. 2-2 Inlet Air Temperature .......................................... 2-3 Throttle Position (TP) .......................................... 2-6 EGR Valve Position (EVP) ................................ 2-14 Oxygen .............................................................. 2-18 Engine Knock .................................................... 2-26 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP/BARO) ....... 2-28 Mass Air Flow (MAF) ........................................ 2-34 Vane Air Flow .................................................... 2-40 Crankshaft/Camshaft Position .......................... 2-46 Magnetic Reluctance Type ......................... 2-49 Hall Effect or Optical Type .......................... 2-51
3 4
Testing Ignition Modules ............................3-1 More Uses for the Sensor Probe ............... 4-1
"Circuit Tester" Voltage Check ........................... 4-1 Continuity Checks ............................................... 4-2 Diode Check ........................................................ 4-4
i
Safety First
General Safety Guidelines to Follow When Working on Vehicles
Always wear approved eye protection Always operate the vehicle in a well-ventilated area. Do not inhale exhaust gases they are very poisonous! Always keep yourself, tools, and test equipment away from all moving or hot engine parts. Always make sure the vehicle is in Park (automatic transmission) or Neutral (manual transmission) and that the parking brake is firmly set. Block the drive wheels. Never lay tools on vehicle battery. You may short the terminals together, causing harm to yourself, the tools, or the battery. Never smoke or have open flames near vehicle. Vapors from fuel or charging batteries are highly flammable and explosive. Never leave vehicle unattended while running tests. Always keep a fire extinguisher suitable for all types of fires handy. Always turn ignition key OFF when connecting or disconnecting electrical components, unless otherwise instructed. Use shop rags to cover fuel line fittings when connecting or disconnecting fuel lines. Avoid contact with fuel. Dispose of all rags properly. Clean up all fuel spills immediately. Keep away from engine cooling fan. On some vehicles, the fan may start up unexpectedly. You must follow vehicle service manual cautions when working around the air bag system. If the cautions are not followed, the air bag may open unexpectedly, resulting in personal injury. Note that the air bag can still open up several minutes after the ignition key is turned OFF (or even if the battery is disconnected) because of a special energy reserve module. Always follow vehicle manufacturers warnings, cautions, and service procedures.
ii
6-3
Section
1
1
Tester Basics
Description of Controls and Accessories Installing and Checking the 9 Volt Battery
Note: Detailed procedures for testing sensors and ignition modules are located in Section 2 (sensors) and Section 3 (ignition modules).
RANGE Switch
Controls power to the Tester and selects measurement range sensitivity (as required by various sensor tests). POWER OFF - No power supplied to either the tester or RED test lead. LOW - Tester powered up for use. Voltage from 9 volt battery supplied to RED test lead. Selects range for measuring low levels of voltage, resistance or frequency. HIGH - Tester powered up for use. Voltage from 9 volt battery supplied to RED test lead. Selects range for measuring higher levels of voltage, resistance or frequency.
2 FUNCTION Switch
Selects the type of signal being measured (for conducting sensor and ignition module tests). Different kinds of signals are used by various sensors. VOLTS - Measures voltages. This function is used to test most sensors. OHMS - Measures resistance. Also used for checking continuity and testing diodes (see section 4). Mostly used for testing temperature sensors. FREQUENCY - Measures frequency signals. (Peak signal voltage must be at least 3 volts to register.) Some MAP and MAF sensors send a frequency signal. This function is also used to test ignition modules.
1-1
Section 1
3 TEST Lights
A single TEST light turns on to show the level of a measured signal (voltage, resistance or frequency). When signal values are low, the TEST light is off or near the bottom of the column. The TEST light moves higher up the column as the signal level increases. Sensor tests involve working the sensor and watching the TEST light move up, down or flash. Note that the motion of the light is more important than its actual position.
4 PULSE Light 5 RICH/ LEAN Lights
Used when testing ignition modules. The PULSE light will flash if the module is good. Note that the PULSE light will also be on (or flash) whenever frequency signals are being measured - this is normal.
These lights are active when the tester switches are set to LOW VOLTS only. LEAN (green): ON for voltages between 0.1 and 0.59 volts. RICH (red): ON for voltages above 0.6 volts. The RICH/LEAN lights work along with the TEST lights and are helpful when testing oxygen sensors. The RICH/LEAN lights may be ignored when testing other sensors using the LOW VOLTS range.
6 Test Leads
Two or more of these are used for the various tests and checks. Yellow - The SIGNAL lead. Signals probed by this lead cause the TEST lights to react. Usually connected to a sensor or ignition module output circuit during testing. Black - The COMMON lead. Used as a circuit ground or signal reference point for all tests and checks. This lead is always used. Green - The TRIGGER lead. Used when testing ignition modules. Sends a signal to fire the module. Usually connected to the module crankshaft/camshaft input circuit. Red - The 9V power lead. This lead is connected to the 9 volt battery inside the tester whenever the RANGE switch is in the LOW or HIGH positions. Ignition modules and some sensors require this power for testing.
1-2
Tester Basics
6
IGNITION MODULE & ENGINE SENSOR TESTER
TEST
3
HIGH
1 2 4
SIGNAL
LOW
POWER OFF
RICH
Select LOW, VOLTS
RANGE
LEAN
VOLTS OHMS FREQUENCY
FUNCTION
PULSE
7
COMMON TRIGGER POWER 9V
9V BATTERY TEST: 1) SET RANGE TO HIGH. 2) SET FUNCTION TO OHMS. 3) DISCONNECT ALL LEADS. O.K. IF TOPMOST TEST LIGHT IS ON. WEAK IF ANOTHER LIGHT IS ON.
9 7 Backprobe Adapter
To Sensor
Allows test lead to probe sensor circuits when the sensor is connected to vehicle wiring harness. Slide the scooped end of adapter next to circuit wire entering rear of connector. Continue pushing adapter until it touches terminal inside connector. (Slightly twisting adapter while pushing may ease entry) Grasp open end of adapter with test lead clip. Keep pushing on adapter to maintain circuit contact.
Caution: The scooped end of the adapter will break if you bend it.
To Computer
1-3
Section 1
8 Jumper Lead 9 Connector Pin Adapters
Tester Basics
Used when checking some ignition modules. Makes extra connections as required for testing.
Used for easier attachment of test leads to certain sensor or wiring connector pins. Push one end of the adapter onto the desired connector pin. Grasp the other end with the test lead clip.
Sensor Tester Power
A 9-volt transistor radio battery must be installed to power the unit. Use an alkaline battery (conventional batteries are too weak for ignition module testing).
Installing the Battery

1. Hold the tester face down with both hands. 2. Using both thumbs, firmly press downwards and outwards on the battery compartment door at the bottom of the tester. 3. Slide the battery compartment door away from the tester to remove. 4. Attach battery to connector and install inside compartment. 5. Replace battery door. Slide door inwards until it snaps closed.
RANGE
FUNCTION
9V
HIGH LOW
Checking the Battery

TEST
POWER OFF
1. Make sure none of the test leads are connected together or touching anything. 2. Set RANGE switch to HIGH. 3. Set FUNCTION switch to OHMS. 4. Battery is good if the top TEST light is ON. If any light below the top TEST light is ON, the battery is too weak for reliable testing and should be replaced. TIP: To extend battery life, always switch to POWER OFF when not making a measurement. This is safe to do even if the tester is connected to a circuit.
1-4
Section 2 Section
Testing Sensors
Save yourself time! Always begin with a thorough visual and hands-on inspection. You can often find the cause of many problems by just looking. Has the vehicle been serviced recently? Sometimes things get reconnected in the wrong place, or not at all. Dont take shortcuts. Inspect hoses and wiring which may be difficult to see due to location. Inspect the air cleaner and ductwork for defects. Check sensors and actuators for damage.
Troubleshooting Tips
YST
CE BOOSTER
HVAC CRUISE
Inspect all vacuum hoses for:

BRAKE BOOSTER
TO TRANS MODE
G GAP U.S.A.
EGR VAC REG

FUEL PRESS REG.
EM
EGR VAC REG
FRONT OF CAR
Correct routing. Refer to vehicle service manual, or Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) decal located in the engine compartment. Pinches and kinks. Splits, cuts or breaks. Inspect wiring for: Contact with sharp edges (this happens often).
12RAC8
C AA
28
6D L C2 4
Contact with hot surfaces, such as exhaust manifolds. Pinched, burned or chafed insulation. Proper routing and connections. Check electrical connectors for: Corrosion on pins. Bent or damaged pins. Contacts not properly seated in housing. Bad wire crimps to terminals.
2-1
Section 2 Engine TEMPERATURE

HIGH
SENSOR RESISTANCE
LOW Cold Hot
Typical Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
TEMPERATURE
What is It?
The engine temperature sensor is a thermistor - a resister whose resistance changes with temperature. The hotter the sensor gets, the lower the resistance becomes. The thermistor is mounted inside the tip of a threaded metal housing. This is a 2-wire sensor. (Exception: some Chrysler engines have a dual sensor with three wires.)
How is It Used?
The computer needs to know engine temperature so it can modify air/fuel ratios, spark advance, idle speed, and emission device operation (such as an EGR valve).
Location
The sensor is usually threaded into the engine block, lower intake manifold, or cylinder head to provide direct contact with coolant.
When to Test
Related trouble codes sent by computer. Driveability problems such as hard starting, rough idle, stalling, hesitation, stumble, surging, knocking (pinging), poor fuel economy, or black exhaust smoke.
What to Inspect
2-2
Sensor operation (see test on page 2-4). Poor connections at sensor or computer. Faulty sensor wiring (open or short circuits). Heavy deposits on sensor tip which can cause poor response. Leakage into sensor housing. Engine running too hot (problems with antifreeze, thermostat, water pump, fan, belts, low engine oil).
Air TEMPERATURE
HIGH
SENSOR RESISTANCE
LOW Cold Hot
Typical Air Temperature Sensor
TEMPERATURE
What is It?
The air temperature sensor is a thermistor - a resister whose resistance changes with temperature. The hotter the sensor gets, the lower the resistance becomes. The thermistor is mounted inside the tip of a threaded metal housing. This is a 2-wire sensor.
How is It Used?
The computer needs to know air temperature to calculate the amount of air entering the engine. Then, the computer can provide the proper air/fuel mixture for the desired operating condition.
Location
The sensor is threaded into the intake manifold, throttle body, rear of air cleaner assembly or elsewhere along the path of air entering the engine. Sometimes this sensor is built into a vane airflow meter or mass airflow sensor assembly. One connector handles both the air flow and temperature sensor circuits. Related trouble codes sent by computer. Driveability problems such as hard starting, rough idle, stalling, hesitation, stumble, surging, poor fuel economy, or black exhaust smoke.
When to Test
What to Inspect
Sensor operation (see test on page 2-4). Poor connections at sensor or computer. Faulty sensor wiring (open or short circuits). Heavy deposits on sensor tip which can cause poor response. Restricted or blocked air passageways. Engine running too hot (problems with antifreeze, thermostat, water pump, fan, belts, low engine oil).
2-3
Section 2 Testing Sensors

Temperature Sensor Test Procedure
Use this procedure for testing all engine coolant or inlet air temperature sensors. Exceptions: Certain Toyota, Nissan and Ford engines using vane airflow sensors have the air temperature sensor built into the vane airflow assembly. Refer to page 2-40 for testing. GM 1988 2.8L Mass Airflow Sensor (5 pin only) also has a built-in air temperature sensor. Use same test procedure as for vane airflow temperature sensor. Refer to page 2-34 for testing. Sensor may be tested on or off vehicle.
Warning: On-car testing involves running engine. Observe all safety precautions (see page ii). Work in well ventilated area.
1) Verify ignition key is OFF. Allow engine to cool to outside temperature before testing. 2) Check Tester battery Refer to page 1-4. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF when done. 3) Disconnect wiring harness from sensor - Inspect for damage. Some vehicles use a metal snap ring to secure wiring harness to sensor. Remove this snap ring before disconnecting wiring harness. 4) Off-Car testing only: Remove sensor. Be careful of coolant spillage from mounting hole if removing engine temperature sensor. 5) Connect test leads. YELLOW to either sensor pin. BLACK to remaining sensor pin.
Yellow
Black
2-4
Engine Air TEMPERATURE
6) Verify test clips make good contact and do not touch each other.
HIGH LOW
Make sure red and green test clips are not touching anything. 7) Set RANGE switch to HIGH. 8) Set FUNCTION switch to OHMS. 9) Note TEST light position on tester. If the sensor is good, the light will move downwards as the sensor heats up. 10) On-Car test only: Disconnect test leads and reconnect sensor to vehicle wiring harness. 11) Heat sensor tip thoroughly. On-Car test: Start engine and idle at 2000 RPM until upper radiator hose is hot. Off-Car test: Dip sensor tip into boiling water, OR... (metal sensor housing) Heat tip with flame from candle or cigarette lighter OR... (plastic sensor housing) Heat tip with hair dryer. 12) On-Car test only: Turn ignition key OFF. Disconnect vehicle wiring harness from sensor and reconnect test leads as before. 13) Observe TEST light position for test results. Good Sensor - TEST light moved downwards below original position. (TEST light may go off if sensor is very hot - this is OK.) The TEST light will move upwards as the sensor cools off. Range of TEST light movement varies with sensor type and temperature change. Bad Sensor - TEST light position did not change during test. 14) Testing is complete. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF and remove all test leads.
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
2-5
TYPICAL THROTTLE POSITION SENSORS

HIGH
What is It?
Throttle Position Sensor

The throttle position sensor is a VOLTAGE potentiometer - a type of variable resistor (similar to a dashboard dimmer control). These sensors come LOW in a wide variety of styles - some with MIN. MAX. ROTATION connectors at the end of a short wire pigtail. The computer supplies power and ground to the sensor. The sensor has an element which is turned (rotary type) or pushed (linear type). When the sensor is mounted on the engine, the element is linked to the throttle so they move together. The sensor sends a voltage signal back to the computer indicating element (and thus throttle) position. The voltage signal increases when the throttle opens and operates the sensor element. Throttle position sensors on Asian vehicles may also include one or two throttle position switches.
SIGNAL
Throttle Position Switch

This is one or two switches usually built into a single housing (often resembling a throttle position sensor). Movement of the throttle linkage operates the throttle switches. The switches are wired to the computer. The computer usually supplies an ground connection to one side of each switch. The idle position switch is closed (or open - depends upon vehicle) when the throttle is resting. The switch operates when the throttle is opened (by any amount) and no longer in the idle position.
2-6
THROTTLE POSITION Sensor/Switch
Sometimes a second switch is used to signal a wide open throttle condition. This switch is normally open (or closed - depends upon vehicle) when the throttle is at idle or just partially open. The switch operates when the throttle is opened beyond a certain point. (The amount of throttle opening required to operate the switch varies with vehicle.)
How it is used?
The computer uses throttle position to determine engine operating condition: idle (closed throttle), cruise (part throttle), or hard acceleration (wide open throttle). The computer can then properly control air/fuel mixtures, spark advance, idle speed, and lock-up torque converters.
Location
Fuel injected engines: Rotary type sensor - usually mounted to outside of throttle body and linked to throttle shaft. Computer controlled carburetor engines: Linear (sliding) type - usually mounted inside carburetor (GM) or outside carburetor (Ford).
When to Test
Related trouble codes sent by computer. Driveability problems such as hard starting, rough idle, stalling, hesitation, stumble, surging, knocking (pinging), poor fuel economy, backfiring, no torque converter lock-up.
What to Inspect
Sensor operation (see test on page 2-10) or switch operation (see test on page 2-12). Poor connections at sensor or computer. Sensor position adjustment. Faulty sensor wiring (open or short circuits). Binding throttle shaft or linkage. If used: Cruise Control linkage problems, idle speed control motor, vacuum hose connected to throttle positioner, choke, or cam systems affecting throttle position.
2-7

Throttle Position Sensor Connectors
A B
= Test A, page 2-10 Some sensors require more than one test. = Test B, page 2-12
Note: If the Red and Black test lead hook-ups are reversed, the TEST light will move in the opposite direction during Test A. This does not affect the accuracy of the test or harm the sensor.
GM
Red Yellow Black Black
FORD
Yellow Red
GM, FORD, CHRYSLER, HONDA

Black Yellow Red
FORD
Yellow
Red Black
HONDA
Yellow
HONDA
HONDA
A
Black Red Black Yellow
A
Red Black Yellow
A
Red
Refer to vehicle service manual for connectors not shown. Hook up as follows: Red test lead to sensor power pin Yellow test lead to sensor signal pin
2-8
Black test lead to sensor ground pin
TOYOTA
TOYOTA/NISSAN
A
Red Yellow Black
B
Yellow Black
B
Yellow Black
Not used on some vehicles. Perform this test only if vehicle Black Yellow mating connector has 3 wires.
A
Red Yellow Black
Yellow Black Yellow Black
B
Some sensors have cable attached here. Testing is identical.
Not used on some vehicles. Perform this test only if vehicle mating connector has 3 wires.
2-9

TEST A - Throttle Position Sensor
Important: If more than one hook-up is shown, it means more than one test is required to check all parts of the sensor. Do all tests shown for your sensor. The letter next to the hook-up refers to the test procedure.
Sensor may be tested on or off vehicle. (Exception: On-car test only for most Honda - sensor permanently attached to throttle body.) Warning: Observe all safety precautions (see page ii) if testing sensor on vehicle.
1) Verify ignition key is OFF. 2) Check Tester battery Refer to page 1-4. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF when done. 3) Disconnect wiring harness from sensor - Inspect for damage. Some vehicles use a metal snap ring to secure wiring harness to sensor. Remove this snap ring before disconnecting wiring harness. 4) Off-Car testing only: Remove sensor. IMPORTANT: Many throttle position sensors require special adjustment when reinstalled. Refer to vehicle service manual for adjustment procedure. A good sensor will not perform properly if incorrectly adjusted. 5) Connect test leads. Connect TEST leads according to diagram A in the component drawing. 6) Verify test clips make good contact and do not touch each other. Make sure unused clips are not touching anything.
2-10
7) Honda only: 1988-92 Civic and CRX Remove vacuum hose from dashpot diaphragm. Apply 20 in. Hg to the dashpot diaphragm using a hand vacuum pump. The dashpot diaphragm is part of the throttle body assembly. It is used to control cold engine fast idle and throttle closure speed so engine will not stall. 8) Set RANGE switch to HIGH. 9) Set FUNCTION switch to VOLTS. 10) Operate sensor - Watch TEST light for results. (Note: TEST light may be on or off before sensor is operated.) On-Car test: Slowly move throttle linkage back and forth from idle to wide open position. Off-Car test: Slowly rotate sensor element back and forth from end to end.
HIGH LOW
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
Good Sensor - TEST light smoothly moves up or down as sensor is operated. (The TEST light may go off if it moves to the bottom of the column - this is O.K.) Range of TEST light movement varies with sensor type and vehicle mounting. Bad Sensor - TEST light position does not change during test OR light movement is erratic, showing a sudden jump or dip during smooth sensor operation.
11) Testing is complete. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF and remove all test leads.
2-11

TEST B - Throttle Position Switch
Important: If more than one hook-up is shown, it means more than one test is required to check all parts of the switch. Do all tests shown for your switch. The letter next to the hook-up refers to the test procedure.
Switch may be tested on or off vehicle. Warning: Observe all safety precautions (see page ii) if testing sensor on vehicle.
1) Verify ignition key is OFF. 2) Check Tester battery Refer to page 1-4. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF when done. 3) Disconnect wiring harness from switch - Inspect for damage. Some vehicles use a metal snap ring to secure wiring harness to switch. Remove this snap ring before disconnecting wiring harness. 4) Off-Car testing only: Remove switch. IMPORTANT: Many throttle position switches require special adjustment when reinstalled. Refer to vehicle service manual for adjustment procedure. A good switch will not perform properly if incorrectly adjusted. 5) Connect test leads. Connect TEST leads according to diagram B in the component drawing. 6) Verify test clips make good contact and do not touch each other. Make sure unused clips are not touching anything.
2-12
HIGH LOW
POWER OFF
7) Set RANGE switch to HIGH. 8) Set FUNCTION switch to OHMS. 9) Operate sensor - Watch TEST light for results. On-Car test: Slowly move throttle linkage back and forth from idle to wide open position. Off-Car test: Slowly rotate sensor element back and forth from end to end.
RANGE
FUNCTION
TEST
TEST
Good Switch - TEST light switches between being ON at top of column and OFF Bad Switch - TEST light always ON at top of column or always OFF.
2-13
FORD EGR Valve
HONDA EGR Valve
What is it?
HIGH
SENSOR VOLTAGE
LOW MIN. MAX.
This sensor is a potentiometer - a type of variable resistor (similar to a dashboard light dimmer control). The computer supplies power and ground to the sensor. the sensor has a shaft which is pushed. When the sensor is mounted on the EGR valve, the shaft gets pushed as the valve opens. The sensor sends out a voltage signal indicating the amount of valve opening (lift). The voltage signal gets larger the more the valve is opened.
VALVE OPENING
How it is used?
The computer is programmed to provide optimum EGR flow during idle, cruise, and hard acceleration operating conditions. The computer uses the sensor signal to calculate actual EGR flow. Then the computer can modify the EGR valve opening as required.
Location When to Test
Attached to the top of the EGR valve.
Related trouble codes sent by computer. Driveability problems such as hesitation, stumble, surging, poor fuel economy, erratic acceleration, knocking (pinging), no torque converter lock-up.
What to Inspect
2-14
Sensor operation (see page 2-15). Poor connections at the sensor or computer. Damaged or sticking EGR valve. Worn or broken vacuum hoses, vacuum connectors. Damaged vacuum reservoir, canister. Problems with control solenoids supplying operating vacuum to open EGR valve.
EGR Valve Position/Lift Sensors
EGR Valve Position Sensor Test Procedure

Sensor may be tested on or off vehicle. Warning: Observe all safety precautions (see page ii) if testing sensor on vehicle.
1) Verify ignition key is OFF. 2) Check Tester battery Refer to page 1-4. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF when done. 3) Disconnect wiring harness from sensor - Inspect for damage. Some vehicles use a metal snap ring to secure wiring harness to sensor. Remove this snap ring before disconnecting wiring harness. 4) Off-Car testing only: Remove sensor. Note: Some sensors are permanently attached to the EGR valve and cannot be removed. 5) Connect test leads according to diagram. 6) Verify test clips make good contact and do not touch each other.
HIGH LOW
Make sure unused clips are not touching anything. 7) Set RANGE switch to HIGH. 8) Set FUNCTION switch to VOLTS. 9) Operate sensor - Watch TEST light for results. (Note: TEST light may be on or off before sensor is operated.) On-Car test: Remove vacuum control hose from EGR valve. Connect hand vacuum pump to EGR valve. Gradually apply vacuum to slowly open valve.
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
2-15

Off-Car test: Slowly push sensor element back and forth from end to end.
Good Sensor - TEST light smoothly moves up or down as sensor is operated. (The TEST light may go off if it moves to the bottom of the column - this is O.K.) Range of TEST light movement varies with sensor type and vehicle mounting. Bad Sensor - TEST light position does not change during test OR light movement is erratic, showing a sudden jump or dip during smooth sensor operation.
2-16
EGR Valve Position/Lift Sensors
Sensor Connectors
Note: If the Red and Black test lead hook-ups are reversed, the TEST light will move in the opposite direction during the test. This does not affect the accuracy of the test or harm the sensor.
Black
FORD
Yellow Red
HONDA #1
HONDA #2
Black
Yellow
Red
Yellow
Black
Red
Honda uses two sensor types. Try hook-up #1 first. If good test results are not obtained, retest using hook-up #2 before judging sensor.
Refer to vehicle service manual for connectors not shown. Hook up as follows: Red test lead to sensor power pin Yellow test lead to sensor signal pin Black test lead to sensor ground pin
2-17
Typical Oxygen Sensor
What is It?
The oxygen sensor is a zirconium dioxide ceramic mounted in the tip of a threaded metal housing. The tip is perforated to protect the sensing element but still allow exhaust gases to pass through. The sensor produces a voltage signal based on the amount of oxygen it contacts. A low voltage indicates a lean exhaust (too much oxygen). A higher voltage signals a rich exhaust (not enough oxygen). The sensor must be very hot to operate: 349(C (660(F). Many have 2-wire heating elements builtin to quicken the warm-up time.
How it is used?
The computer uses this sensor to calculate optimum air/fuel mixture for low emissions and good fuel economy. If the sensor indicates a rich exhaust (not enough oxygen because of too much fuel), the computer will compensate by reducing fuel delivery. If the computer receives a lean signal (too much oxygen because of too little fuel), it will increase fuel delivery. NOTE: Some vehicles use more than one oxygen sensor.
2-18
Location
The sensor is threaded into the exhaust manifold to give it direct contact with the exhaust gases.
OXYGEN
HIGH
SENSOR VOLTAGE
LOW Lean OPTIMUM Rich
AIR FUEL MIXTURE
When to Test
Related trouble codes sent by computer. Driveability problems such as rough running, hesitation, stumble, poor fuel economy, poor performance, black exhaust smoke.
Inspection
Sensor operation (see page 2-21). Poor connections at the sensor or computer. This sensor often fails because of contamination from fuel, oil additives, gasket sealer or an overly rich running engine. Factors which can make a rich running engine include: ignition system problems (coil, distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, wires), fuel contaminated by engine oil, emission devices (carbon canister, EGR valve, PCV valve, air injection system), manifold leaks, air filter, fuel pressure and engine not at normal operating temperature.
IMPORTANT:
Some engines (usually off-road applications) use a titania-type oxygen sensor. This sensor resembles the common zirconium type, but has an open-ended tip. The titania sensor changes resistance when it operates. This tester is not designed to test the titania type sensor.
2-19

Sensor Types
1-Wire: Single wire goes to sensor SIGNAL. Sensor housing is connected to sensor GROUND.
2-Wire: One wire goes to sensor SIGNAL. Second wire goes to sensor GROUND. Refer to vehicle service manual for wire identification. (Sensor wire is often black.)
3-Wire: Two wires (often the same color) go to the sensor heating element. Third wire (different color from the others) goes to sensor SIGNAL. Sensor housing is connected to sensor GROUND.
4-Wire: Two wires (often the same color) go to the sensor heating element. Third wire goes to sensor SIGNAL. Fourth wire goes to sensor GROUND. Refer to vehicle service manual for wire identification. (Signal wire is often black.)
2-20
OXYGEN
Heating Element Test

Do this test if sensor has a heating element (3 or 4 wire connector). If sensor has 1 or 2 wire connector, do not do this test. Go directly to On-Car Test (page 2-22).
Warning: Observe all safety precautions (see page ii) if testing sensor on vehicle.
1) Verify ignition key is OFF. 2) Check Tester battery Refer to page 1-4. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF when done. 3) Disconnect wiring harness from sensor - Inspect for damage. Some vehicles use a metal snap ring to secure wiring harness to sensor. Remove this snap ring before disconnecting wiring harness. 4) Connect test leads. YELLOW to either sensor HEATER pin. BLACK to remaining sensor HEATER pin.
HIGH LOW
5) Verify test clips make good contact and do not touch each other. Make sure unused clips are not touching anything. 6) Set RANGE switch to HIGH. 7) Set FUNCTION switch to OHMS. 8) Observe TEST light for test results.
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
TEST
Good Heater: TEST light OFF (low resistance). Bad Heater: TEST light ON in any position (resistance too high, or open circuit).
9) Heating Element test is complete. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF and remove all test leads. Go to On-Car Test.
2-21

On-Car Test
Important: Reliable testing of the oxygen sensor while on-vehicle is very difficult because test conditions cannot be well controlled. If the sensor responds during on-car testing, then it is probably good and no other testing is necessary. If the sensor does not seem to respond when tested on-car, remove it and perform the off-car test before deciding whether or not the sensor is bad. Warning: This test involves running the engine. Observe all safety precautions (see page ii). Work in well-ventilated area.
1) Verify ignition key is OFF. 2) Check Tester battery Refer to page 1-4. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF when done. 3) Connect test leads. YELLOW to sensor SIGNAL circuit. BLACK to good vehicle GROUND. Keep sensor connected to vehicle wiring and use backprobe adapter to contact sensor SIGNAL circuit if possible. If you cannot use backprobe, disconnect sensor connector and connect YELLOW test lead directly to sensor SIGNAL pin. Note: Most computer systems will store a trouble code in memory (and turn on the Check Engine light) if engine is run with sensor disconnected. Ignore or erase the code after testing. Refer to Vehicle Service Manual. 4) Verify test clips make good contact.
HIGH LOW
Make sure unused clips are not touching anything. 5) Set RANGE switch to LOW. 6) Set FUNCTION switch to VOLTS. 7) Start engine - Idle until hot. Run engine until upper radiator hose is hot and pressurized.
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
2-22
OXYGEN
8) Observe RICH/LEAN lights during fast idle. The TEST light column also indicates sensor voltage, but it is easier to check operation by watching the RICH/ LEAN lights.) Maintain throttle partially open (2000 RPM idle). IF the RICH/LEAN lights flash back and forth every 3 seconds or less... THEN the sensor is good and no further testing is necessary. Go to step 10. IF it takes longer than 3 seconds for the RICH/LEAN lights to switch back and forth... THEN the sensor may be degraded. Go to step 10, then do the Off-Car test on page 2-24 IF the RICH/LEAN lights do not flash back and forth... THEN go to step 9. 9) Observe RICH / LEAN lights during throttle changes. Quickly move throttle from idle to partially open (2000 RPM) position then back to idle. (This attempts to create a momentary rich or lean engine operating condition.) Repeat this throttle action several times while observing the RICH/LEAN lights.
RICH RICH
IF the RICH/LEAN lights switch within 3 seconds of the throttle action... THEN the sensor is good and no further testing is necessary. Go to step 10. IF it takes longer than 3 seconds for the RICH/LEAN lights to switch... THEN the sensor may be degraded. Go to step 10. Do the Off-Car test on page 2-24 IF the RICH/LEAN lights do not flash back and forth... THEN go to step 10. Do the Off-Car test on page 2-24. 10) On-Car test is complete - Turn ignition key OFF. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF and remove all test leads. If the RICH / LEAN lights did not flash, or flashed too slowly, in steps 8 or 9, then do the Off-Car test on page 2-24.
LEAN
LEAN
2-23

Off-Car Test
Warning: This test involves use of an open flame from a propane torch. Observe all safety precautions for torch operation. Do not use near flammable material or gases.
1) Verify ignition key is OFF. 2) Check Tester battery Refer to page 1-4. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF when done. 3) Disconnect wiring harness from sensor - Inspect for damage. Some vehicles use a metal snap ring to secure wiring harness to sensor. Remove this snap ring before disconnecting wiring harness. 4) Remove sensor. 5) Firmly grasp sensor with a pair of locking pliers. 6) Connect test leads YELLOW to sensor SIGNAL pin. BLACK to sensor GROUND. 7) Verify test clips make good contact and do not touch each other.
HIGH LOW
Make sure unused clips are not touching anything. 8) Set RANGE switch to LOW. 9) Set FUNCTION switch to VOLTS. 10) Light torch - Heat sensor tip - Observe RICH/ LEAN lights. Thoroughly heat sensor tip until tip is as hot as possible, but not glowing. See Fig. 1. The sensor tip must be very hot to operate! (349(C, 660(F)
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
2-24
The LEAN or RICH light should be ON. If both lights are off, the sensor is defective.
OXYGEN
11) Observe RICH/LEAN lights while operating sensor. After sensor tip is hot. move the flame until the sensor tip is completely surrounded by the flame. This keeps oxygen away from the tip. See Fig. 2.
Good Sensor: RICH light turns ON within 3 seconds indicating a rich (low oxygen) condition. Bad Sensor: RICH light takes longer than 3 seconds to turn on, or does not turn on at all.
Move flame so oxygen can reach sensor tip. (Keep sensor tip hot with flame.) See Fig. 1.
Good Sensor: LEAN light turns ON within 3 seconds indicating a lean (high oxygen) condition. Bad Sensor: LEAN light takes longer than 3 seconds to turn on, or does not turn on at all.
12) Repeat step 11 a few times to verify results. 13) Testing is complete. Extinguish flame, set RANGE switch to POWER OFF, let sensor cool and remove test leads.
IMPORTANT: Special anti-seize compound must be applied to sensor housing threads before reinstallation. Refer to vehicle service manual for proper type.
RICH
RICH
LEAN
LEAN
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
2-25

Yellow Yellow
Black
Black
What is It?
The knock sensor is a piece of piezoelectric material mounted in a metal housing. The sensor acts like a microphone - it changes vibrations into a small AC voltage signal. The sensor usually has a one wire or two wire connector.
How it is used?
The computer (or other spark timing controller) is designed to recognize sensor signals caused by engine knock vibrations. Then, spark timing is retarded to eliminate the damaging knock condition
Location
Usually threaded into (or bolted on) the engine block, intake manifold or exhaust manifold. Often near the cylinder heads.
When to Test
Related trouble codes sent by computer. Knocking during cruise or hard acceleration (not enough spark retard), hesitation, poor performance and fuel economy (excess spark retard).
What to Inspect
2-26
Sensor operation (see test on page 2-27). Poor connections at sensor or computer. Faulty sensor wiring (open or short circuits). Spark timing. Bad fuel quality.
Engine KNOCK
Knock Sensor Test Procedure

1) Verify ignition key is OFF. 2) Check Tester battery (refer to page 1-4). 3) Disconnect wiring harness from sensor - Inspect for damage. 4) Connect test leads to sensor.
One-wire connector:
YELLOW test lead to signal pin (top of sensor). BLACK test lead to body of sensor (off-car) or nearby ground (on-car).
Two-wire connector:
HIGH LOW
YELLOW test lead to either sensor pin. BLACK test lead to remaining sensor pin. 5) Set RANGE switch to LOW. 6) Set FUNCTION switch to VOLTS. 7) Operate sensor - Watch TEST light for results. (Note: Ignore any RICH/LEAN light flashes.) On-car test: Lightly tap surface near sensor using a socket extension (or similar tool) and a light hammer. Do not tap directly on sensor!
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
TEST
Off-car test: Grasp sensor firmly. Gently tap sensor tip with a light hammer.
Good sensor: TEST lights flash upward from the bottom of the TEST light column during a tap. (Only a few lights may flash. This is O.K.) Range of TEST light movement varies with sensor type and tapping force. Bad sensor: TEST lights do not flash during a tap.
8) Testing is complete.
2-27
FORD GM/CHRYSLER
TOYOTA/HONDA
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sens

What is It?
This sensor is an electronic module which sends a signal to the computer indicating atmospheric pressure and/or engine vacuum. Depending upon sensor type, the signal may be a dc voltage or a frequency. More pressure (less vacuum) makes the sensor signal increase (higher voltage or frequency). The computer supplies power and ground to the sensor. The computer needs to know air pressure both outside and inside the manifold to properly adjust the air/fuel mixture and ignition timing for varying engine load and altitude conditions. On turbocharged engines, the computer also uses the sensor to monitor boost pressure and operate the wastegate accordingly.
How it is used?
2-28
Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP/BARO
Location
The sensor is mounted either on the bulkhead, air cleaner, throttle body or elsewhere in the engine compartment. A vacuum hose connects the sensor to a strong source of manifold vacuum. (Some new MAP sensor types may be directly mounted to the manifold, eliminating the vacuum hose connection.) The BARO sensors are vented to the atmosphere there is no vacuum hose attached. Some Honda engines locate the MAP sensor inside a control box containing several vacuum hoses and solenoids.
When to Test
Related trouble codes sent by computer. No start, hard starting, stalling, rough idle, hesitation, stumble, surging, poor fuel economy, black exhaust smoke, knocking, backfiring, catalytic converter overheating or no torque converter lock-up.
Vehicle Harness Connectors for MAP Sensor

(Mating side of connector shown.)
GM/CHRYSLER
Power MAP Signal
FORD
Power MAP Signal Ground Ground
HONDA
TOYOTA
Ground Signal
Power Ground Signal
Power
Ground Signal
Power
Refer to vehicle service manual for connectors not shown.
2-29

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Test Procedure
Testing is done on-vehicle.
Warning: This test involves running the engine. Observe all safety precautions (see page ii). Work in well-ventilated area.
1) Verify ignition key is OFF. 2) Check Tester battery Refer to page 1-4. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF when done. 3) Connect test leads.
Yellow
Keep sensor connected to vehicle wiring.

YELLOW to sensor SIGNAL circuit. Use backprobe adapter. BLACK to good vehicle GROUND.
Backprobe
4) Verify test clips make good contact. Make sure unused clips are not touching anything. 5) Set switches: RANGE on HIGH. FUNCTION on VOLTS.
Exception: Ford vehicles with frequency type sensor (see diagram).

RANGE on LOW. FUNCTION on FREQUENCY. 6) Turn ignition key ON but DO NOT START ENGINE. 7) Note TEST light position on tester.
2-30
If the sensor is good, the light will move downwards when vacuum is applied.
Note: If the TEST light is OFF a problem exists. Go to step 9 and continue testing to find cause. 8) Operate sensor - Watch TEST light for results. (Note: Ignore any PULSE light action.) Non-Turbo Engines only: Start engine and let idle. Turbo Engines only: Attach hand vacuum pump to sensor vacuum port. Apply 18 in. vacuum. (More than 25 in. vacuum may damage sensor.)
Good Sensor
TEST light moves downward during engine idle or when vacuum applied. (The TEST light may go off if it moves to the bottom of the column this is O.K.) Range of TEST light movement varies with sensor type and applied vacuum. Note: if test results are O.K. but a computer trouble code indicates a bad sensor signal, the wire between the sensor signal pin and the computer may be open. Testing is complete.
Problem exists (Bad sensor or wiring)

TEST light position does not change during test. Go to step 9 and continue testing to find cause. Do all steps to avoid replacing a good sensor! 9) Ignition key OFF.
YST
CE BOOSTER
HVAC CRUISE
10) Check MAP sensor vacuum hose for...

BRAKE BOOSTER
G GAP U.S.A.
EGR VAC REG

FUEL PRESS REG.
Correct hook-up. Pinches, kinks or collapsed sides. Splits, cuts, breaks or clogs
TO TRANS MODE
EM
EGR VAC REG
FRONT OF CAR
12RAC8
Repair as necessary, then retest. If no trouble found, go to next step.
2-31

11) Check MAP sensor power circuit.

HIGH LOW
YELLOW test lead to sensor POWER circuit. Use backprobe adapter. BLACK test lead to good vehicle GROUND. RANGE on HIGH. FUNCTION on VOLTS. Ignition key ON.
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
TEST
Good power circuit: Top (or next to top) TEST light ON. Go to next step. Bad power circuit: TEST light OFF or not in top (or next to top) position. Repair open or short in power circuit wiring, then retest.
12) Check MAP sensor ground circuit. Same set-up as previous step, but move YELLOW test lead to sensor GROUND circuit. (Use backprobe adapter.)
Good ground circuit: TEST light OFF. Go to next step. Bad ground circuit: Any TEST light ON. Repair open in ground circuit wiring, then retest.
13) Check for connector problems. Ignition key OFF. Disconnect wiring harness from MAP sensor. (Some vehicles use a metal snap ring to secure wiring harness to sensor. Remove this snap ring before disconnecting wiring harness.) Check terminals for damage, corrosion, bad wire crimps or improper seating in connector.
2-32
14) Check MAP signal wire for short to ground.

HIGH LOW
Verify ignition key OFF and MAP sensor wiring harness disconnected. RANGE on LOW. FUNCTION on OHMS. YELLOW test lead to MAP signal pin on vehicle harness connector. BLACK test lead to good vehicle GROUND.
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
Good circuit (no short): TEST light ON in any position. Go to next step. Bad circuit (shorted): TEST light OFF. Repair short in signal circuit wiring, then retest.
15) Testing is complete. Verify ignition key OFF. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF and remove all test leads.
If steps 10 through 14 are all good (but step 8 showed a problem) then the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced.
2-33
FLOW
Typical MAF Sensor
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensors

What is It?
This sensor is an electronic module which sends a signal to the computer indicating the amount of air entering the engine. Depending upon sensor type, the signal may be a dc voltage or a frequency. The signal level increases (higher voltage or frequency) as the air flow increases. Within the sensor is a heated wire located in the path of incoming air. The module determines air flow by measuring the temperature drop of the heated wire as air passes around it.
How it is used? Location
The computer needs to know incoming air flow to properly adjust air/fuel mixture and ignition timing for varying engine load and operating conditions.
The sensor is mounted in the engine incoming air ductstypically just behind the air cleaner assembly or near the throttle body.
When to Test
Related trouble codes sent by computer. Driveability problems such as hard starting, rough idle, stalling, hesitation, stumble, surging, knocking (pinging), poor fuel economy, black exhaust smoke, backfiring, catalytic converter overheating or no torque converter lock-up.
2-34
-F+
Mass Air Flow MAF
Vehicle Harness Connectors for MAF Sensor

GM
POWER MAF SIGNAL GROUND
1988 and Older RANGE on LOW FUNCTION on FREQUENCY
MAT SIGNAL MAT RTN POWER GROUND MAF SIGNAL

1988 2.8L only RANGE on LOW FUNCTION on FREQUENCY
POWER GROUND MAF SIGNAL

1989 and Newer RANGE on HIGH FUNCTION on FREQUENCY
GROUND MAF RETURN MAF SIGNAL BURN-OFF SIGNAL POWER

All 5-Pin except 1988 2.8L RANGE on HIGH FUNCTION on VOLTS
Ford
NOTE: MAF RETURN is not connected to vehicle GROUND.
MAF SIGNAL MAF RETURN GROUND POWER

RANGE on HIGH FUNCTION on VOLTS
2-35

Vehicle Harness Connectors for MAF Sensor
Nissan
MAF Signal Ground Power Power Ground MAF Signal MAF Signal Ground Power
Pulsar NX SE All except 1987-88
1987-88 Pulsar NX SE only
MAF Signal
Ground
Power
Ground
Power
MAF Return
MAF Signal
1985-86 Maxima 1985-86 300ZX 1985-86 300ZX Turbo
1987 Pulsar NX 1987 Sentra (E16i) 1988 Pulsar NX XE 1988 Sentra
Power
Ground
MAF Signal
MAF Signal
Ground
Power
1987-88 Maxima 1987-88 200SX SE 1987-89 300ZX
1989-90 Sentra 1990 Pulsar NX
MAF Signal
Ground
MAF Return
Power
Power
Ground
MAF Signal
1989 and Up Maxima 1990 and Up 300ZX
All Nissan: RANGE on HIGH FUNCTION on VOLTS

MAF Signal
Power
MAF Ground Return* *May not be used
= May not be used
2-36
Mass Air Flow MAF

Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Test Procedure
Testing is done on-vehicle. Warning: This test involves running the engine. Observe all safety precautions (see page ii). Work in well-ventilated area.
1) Verify ignition key is OFF. 2) Check Tester battery Refer to page 1-4. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF when done. 3) Connect test leads - refer to hook-up diagram.

YELLOW to sensor SIGNAL circuit. Use backprobe adapter. BLACK to good vehicle GROUND. 4) Verify test clips make good contact. Make sure unused clips are not touching anything. 5) Set switches - refer to hook-up diagram. 6) Turn ignition key ON but DO NOT START ENGINE. 7) Note TEST light position on tester. Typically, the TEST light will be off, at the bottom of the column or blinking. Ignore any PULSE light action. If the sensor is good, the light will move upwards during engine run. 8) Start engine and let idle - Watch TEST light for results.
Good Sensor:
TEST light moves upward after engine starts. TEST light moves up even further if engine RPM is momentarily increased. (Move throttle to check.) Range of TEST light movement varies with sensor type and engine speed.
2-37

Note: If test results are O.K. but a computer trouble code indicates a bad sensor signal, the wire between the sensor signal pin and the computer may be open. Testing is complete.
Problem exists (Bad sensor or wiring):

TEST light position does not change during test. Go to step 9 and continue testing to find cause. Do all steps to avoid replacing a good sensor! Note: Sensor is defective if TEST light jumps erratically when sensor GENTLY tapped with lightweight tool. 9) Ignition key OFF. 10) Check for air intake problems. Air leaks - around MAF sensor, ductwork or throttle body. Obstructions in air duct. Clogged air filter.

11) Check MAF sensor power circuit.

HIGH LOW
POWER OFF
YELLOW test lead to sensor POWER circuit. Use backprobe adapter. BLACK test lead to good vehicle GROUND. RANGE on HIGH. FUNCTION on VOLTS. Ignition key ON.
RANGE
FUNCTION
TEST
Good power circuit: Top (or next to top) TEST light ON. Go to next step. Bad power circuit: TEST light OFF or not in top (or next to top) position. Repair open or short in power circuit wiring, then retest.
2-38
Mass Air Flow MAF

12) Check MAF sensor ground circuit. Same set-up as previous step, but move YELLOW test lead to sensor GROUND circuit. Do not probe MAF RETURN pin. Use backprobe adapter.
Good ground circuit: TEST light OFF. Go to next step. Bad ground circuit: Any TEST light ON. Repair open in ground circuit wiring, then retest.
13) Check for connector problems. Ignition key OFF. Disconnect wiring harness from MAF sensor. (Some vehicles use a metal snap ring to secure wiring harness to sensor. Remove this snap ring before disconnecting wiring harness.) Check terminals for damage, corrosion, bad wire crimps or improper seating in connector.

14) Check MAF signal wire for short to ground.
HIGH LOW
Verify ignition key OFF and MAF sensor wiring harness disconnected. RANGE on LOW. FUNCTION on OHMS. YELLOW test lead to MAF signal pin on vehicle harness connector. BLACK test lead to good vehicle GROUND.
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
Good circuit (no short): TEST light ON in any position. Go to next step. Bad circuit (shorted): TEST light OFF. Repair short in signal circuit wiring, then retest.
15) Testing is complete. Verify ignition key OFF. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF and remove all test leads.
If steps 10 through 14 are all good (but step 8 showed a problem) then the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced.
2-39

Typical VAF Sensor
AIR FLOW
Referred to as Vane Air Flow (VAF) sensor or Air Flow Meter
Vane Air Flow Sensors

What is It?
This sensor sends a dc voltage signal to the computer indicating the amount of air entering the engine. The voltage signal increases as the air flow increases. The sensor assembly has a pivoting door (vane) which is opened by incoming air. The vane is connected to a potentiometer (a variable resistor - like a dashboard dimmer control) which generates the voltage signal. Some sensor assemblies also contain an air temperature sensor or a vane position switch (or both). The computer needs to know incoming air flow to properly adjust air/fuel mixture and ignition timing for varying engine load and operating conditions. The sensor is mounted in the engine incoming air duct between the air cleaner and the throttle body. Related trouble codes sent by computer. Driveability problems such as hard starting, rough idle, stalling, hesitation, stumble, surging, knocking (pinging), poor fuel economy, black exhaust smoke, backfiring, catalytic converter overheating or no torque converter lock-up. Sensor operation (see tests on pages 2-43 through 2-44). Poor connections at sensor or computer. Faulty sensor wiring (open or short circuits). Airflow obstructions in ductwork or clogged air filter. Binding pivot on vane door. Air leaks around sensor or throttle body.
How it is used? Location When to Test
What to Inspect
2-40
Vane Air Flow VAF

Sensor Connectors
Toyota
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
*Toyota uses two sensor types. Try hook-up #1 first. If good test results are not obtained, retest using hook-up #2 before judging sensor.
Red Black
Yellow
A*
Black
Yellow
#1
2 3 4 5 6 7
Black
Red
Yellow
A*
Yellow
Black
#2
Nissan
A* #1
Black Red Yellow *Nissan uses two sensor types. Try hook-up #1 first. If good test results are not obtained, retest using hook-up #2 before judging sensor.
A* #2
Black Yellow Red = NOT USED Yellow Black
A
Red
B B
Black Yellow Yellow Black
Ford
A
Black Red Yellow Black Yellow
Hook up as follows: Red lead to sensor power pin. Yellow lead to sensor signal pin. Black lead to sensor ground pin.
2-41

TEST PREPARATION:
All Air Flow Meter Sensor Tests
IMPORTANT: Test all hook-ups shown for the sensor. The letter next to the hook-up refers to the test procedure for that hook-up. Each hook-up should test O.K. Exception: If two hook-ups are marked with an asterisk (*) only one of the two hook-ups has to test O.K. This is necessary because some sensors look alike, but have different internal connections.
1) Verify ignition key is OFF. 2) Check Tester battery Refer to page 1-4. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF when done. 3) Disconnect wiring harness from sensor - Inspect for damage. Some vehicles use a metal snap ring to secure wiring harness to sensor. Remove this snap ring before disconnecting wiring harness. 4) Disconnect ductwork from sensor air intake. This is so you can operate the sensor element for testing. Refer to vehicle service manual for disassembly procedure. 5) Off-Car testing only: Remove sensor. 6) Test Preparation is complete. Do tests referenced in hook-up diagrams. Test A - Air Flow Meter Sensor (page 2-43) Test B - Air Temperature Sensor (page 2-44)
2-42
Test C - Air Flow Meter Position Switch (page 2-45)
Mass Air Flow MAF
TEST A - Air Flow Meter Sensor

1) Do all Test Preparation steps. Refer to page 2-42. 2) Connect test leads. Connect TEST leads according to diagram A in the component drawing. Important: If two hook-ups are marked with an asterisk (*) only one of the two hook-ups has to test O.K. This is necessary because some sensors look alike, but have different internal connections. 3) Verify test clips make good contact and do not touch each other.
HIGH LOW
Make sure unused clips are not touching anything. 4) Set RANGE switch to HIGH. 5) Set FUNCTION switch to VOLTS. 6) Operate sensor - Watch TEST light for results. Slowly move the sensor element (pivoting door or sliding cone) back and forth from fully closed to fully open position. Use a pencil, or similar object, to push on the door. This will not harm the sensor.
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
Good Sensor - TEST light smoothly moves up or down as sensor is operated. (The TEST light may go off if it moves to the bottom of the column - this is O.K.) Range of TEST light movement varies with sensor type. Bad Sensor - TEST light position does not change during test OR light movement is erratic, showing a sudden jump or dip during smooth sensor operation.
7) Test A is complete. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF and remove all test leads. Reconnect sensor to vehicle if all testing is done.
2-43

TEST B - Air Temperature Sensor
1) Do all Test Preparation steps. Refer to page 2-42. 2) Connect test leads. Connect TEST leads according to diagram B in the component drawing. 3) Verify test clips make good contact and do not touch each other.
HIGH LOW
Make sure unused clips are not touching anything. 4) Set RANGE switch to HIGH. 5) Set FUNCTION switch to OHMS. 6) Note TEST light position on tester. If the sensor is good, the light will move downwards as the sensor heats up. 7) Heat temperature sensor thoroughly. The air temperature sensor is located either... In a small tube extending into the air intake passage in front of the closed vane door OR In its own housing threaded into the side of the air flow meter assembly. Heat sensor using a hair dryer or similar device. DO NOT use a match or open flame. 8) Observe TEST light position for test results.
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
Good Sensor - TEST light moved downwards below original position. (TEST light may go off if sensor is very hot - this is OK.) The TEST light will move upwards as the sensor cools off. Range of TEST light movement varies with sensor type and temperature change. Bad Sensor - TEST light position did not change during test.
9) Test B is complete.
2-44
Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF and remove all test leads. Reconnect sensor to vehicle if all testing is done.
Mass Air Flow MAF

Test C - Air Flow Meter Position Switch
1) Do all Test Preparation steps. Refer to page 2-42. 2) Connect test leads. Connect TEST leads according to diagram C in the component drawing. 3) Verify test clips make good contact and do not touch each other.
HIGH LOW
Make sure unused clips are not touching anything. 4) Set RANGE switch to HIGH. 5) Set FUNCTION switch to OHMS. 6) Operate sensor - Watch TEST light for results. Slowly move the sensor element (pivoting door or sliding cone) back and forth from fully closed to fully open position. Use a pencil, or similar object, to push on the door. This will not harm the sensor.
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
TEST
TEST
Good Switch - TEST light switches between being ON at top of column and OFF Bad Switch - TEST light always ON at top of column or always OFF.
7) Test C is complete. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF and remove all test leads. Reconnect sensor to vehicle if all testing is done.
2-45

Wire Coil Magnet To Computer S N Rotation Air Gap Tooth Reluctor Ring
Positive Zero ROTATION
SENSOR VOLTAGE
Negative
Reluctance Sensor Operation
Typical Sensor Signal Voltage
Crankshaft/Camshaft Position sensors

What is It and How is It Used?
The computer needs to know rotational speed (or position) of the engine crankshaft/camshaft for controlling ignition and fuel injector systems. If the computer is handling a Distributorless (or Direct) ignition system or controlling the operation of individual fuel injectors, it also needs to know when cylinder #1 is active. The sensors have various names such as: Crankshaft Position, Crank Angle, Flywheel, Distributor Pick-Up, Camshaft Position, Cylinder, TDC and RPM. Similar sensors are used in anti-lock brake and electronically shifted transmission systems. These sensors have names such as: Wheel Speed, Vehicle Speed and Driveshaft. The sensors come many styles using different connectors. Sometimes an assembly contains more than one sensor. Other versions combine two functions into a single sensor (usually camshaft position and cylinder #1 identification). The most common sensor types are Magnetic Reluctance and Hall Effect. These are described below along with Optical types which are in limited use.
Magnetic Reluctance
2-46
The basic reluctance sensor consists of a permanent magnet with a coil of wire wrapped around it. Nearby the sensor is a toothed ring made of iron or steel (sometimes called a reluctor). The ring is attached to a rotating component such as the crankshaft or camshaft. Whenever a tooth from the ring passes by the sensor, it attracts the magnetic field lines surrounding the magnet. As the field lines move, they pass through the wire coil and generate a small voltage pulse (magnetic induction principle). Thus a voltage pulse is generated every time a tooth passes by the sensor coil.
Crankshaft/Camshaft Position
HIGH
SHUTTER HALL SWITCH MAGNET
POWER GROUND SIGNAL
SIGNAL VOLTAGE
LOW ROTATION
Typical Hall Effect Sensor
Typical Sensor Signal Voltage
The computer determines rotational speed (or position) by measuring how fast (or when) pulses appear. Note: The voltage pulses get larger when the teeth pass by more quickly. Values can range from a fraction of a volt (crank RPM) to over a hundred volts (high RPM). Hall Effect The basic Hall effect sensor consists of a permanent magnet and a small module containing a transistorized Hall effect switch. (Power and ground connections are required for operation.) A small air gap separates the sensor and the magnet. The magnetic field causes the Hall switch to turn on and send out a low voltage signal. If a metal strip (iron or steel) is placed in the gap, it blocks the magnetic field from reaching the Hall device. This causes the Hall switch to turn off and send a high voltage signal out on the signal wire. The metal strips (blades) are part of a disk or cup attached to a rotating component such as the crankshaft or camshaft. As the blades pass through the sensor gap, the voltage signal switches high and low creating a series of pulses. The computer determines rotational speed (or position) by measuring how fast (or when) pulses appear. Optical The optical crank angle sensor consists of a light source, a light detector (photo-electric cell) and a rotor plate, which is a slotted disk. Since the distributor shaft and/or camshaft are linked to the rotor plate, they move together. As the rotor plate rotates, the slits on the disk interrupt a beam or light sent by the light source to the light detector. This interrupting action creates two pulse waveforms that are monitored by the engine computer. The engine computer uses these waveforms and other engine sensors to optimally control ignition timing.
2-47

Where is It?
Crankshaft Position, Crank Angle, Flywheel, Distributor Pick-Up, Camshaft Position, Cylinder, TDC and RPM. The sensor is usually located inside the distributor (if the engine has one). Vehicles without a distributor have the sensor located in various places around the engine where it can be mechanically linked to the crankshaft or camshaft. Driveshaft: Sensor located in transmission housing or near driveshaft. Wheel Speed, Vehicle Speed: Sensors on individual wheels, drive shaft, or transmission shaft.
When to Test
Related trouble codes sent by computer. Problems with... Ignition: No start, stalling, rough running. Electronic Transmission: No torque converter lock-up, faulty shifting or slipping. ABS system: Faulty or not working.
What to Inspect
All Sensor Types: Sensor operation (see tests on page 249 through 2-52). Poor connections at sensor or computer. Faulty sensor wiring (open or short circuits). Magnetic Reluctance: Too much gap between sensor coil and reluctor ring. Cracked, broken, or missing teeth on reluctor ring. Note: Some rings may normally have a gap or irregular tooth space. This gives the computer cylinder identification information. Hall Effect: Foreign objects in gap between Hall sensor and shutter assembly. Cracked, broken, or missing blades on shutter. Note: Some shutter assemblies may normally have irregular blade spacing. This gives the computer cylinder identification information. Optical: Dirt in the rotor blade slots or light source/ detector assembly. Broken or worn teeth on the distributor shaft (if used) or sensor shaft.
2-48
Test A - Magnetic Reluctance Type Sensor

Testing is done on-vehicle. DO NOT test vehicle speed or driveshaft type sensors since they require vehicle motion. Warning: Observe all safety precautions (see page ii) when testing sensor on vehicle.
1) Verify ignition key is OFF. 2) Check Tester battery Refer to page 1-4. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF when done. 3) Disconnect wiring harness from sensor - Inspect for damage. Some vehicles use a metal snap ring to secure wiring harness to sensor. Remove this snap ring before disconnecting wiring harness. 4) Connect test leads. Refer to vehicle service manual for sensor pin identification. Some connectors handle more than one sensor. Test all sensors. YELLOW to one end of sensor coil pin. BLACK to other end of sensor coil pin. 5) Verify test clips make good contact and do not touch each other.
HIGH LOW
Make sure unused clips are not touching anything. 6) Set RANGE switch to LOW. 7) Set FUNCTION switch to VOLTS. 8) Operate sensor - Watch TEST light for results. (Note: Ignore any RICH / LEAN light flashes.) Crankshaft/Camshaft sensor: Crank engine. STAY AWAY from moving engine parts.
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
2-49

Observe all safety precautions (see page ii) - engine may start or backfire. Note: Some computer systems will store a trouble code in memory (and turn on the Check Engine light) if engine is cranked with sensor disconnected. Ignore or erase the code after testing. Refer to vehicle service manual. Wheel Speed sensor: Raise wheel off ground. Use jack stands and observe all safety precautions (see page ii). Give the wheel a quick spin in either direction to test.
TEST
Good sensor - TEST lights flicker or stay ON during testing. Position and range of TEST light activity varies with sensor type. Bad sensor - TEST lights OFF during testing.
2-50
Test B - Hall Effect Type or Optical Type Sensor

1) Verify ignition key is OFF. 2) Check Tester battery Refer to page 1-4. Set RANGE switch to POWER OFF when done. 3) Disconnect wiring harness from sensor - Inspect for damage. Some vehicles use a metal snap ring to secure wiring harness to sensor. Remove this snap ring before disconnecting wiring harness. 4) Off-Car testing only: Remove sensor. 5) Connect test leads. Refer to vehicle service manual for sensor pin identification. Some connectors handle more than one sensor. Test all sensors. RED to sensor power pin. YELLOW to sensor signal pin. BLACK to sensor ground pin. 6) Verify test clips make good contact and do not touch each other.
HIGH LOW
Make sure unused clips are not touching anything. 7) Set RANGE switch to LOW. 8) Set FUNCTION switch to FREQUENCY. 9) Operate sensor - Watch PULSE light for results. (Note: Ignore any TEST light action.)
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
2-51

On-Car test: Crank engine. STAY AWAY from moving engine parts. Observe all safety precautions (see page ii) - engine may start or backfire.
PULSE
Good sensor - PULSE light flashes or stays ON during cranking (varies with sensor type). Bad sensor - PULSE light OFF during cranking.
Note: Some computer systems will store a trouble code in memory (and turn on the Check Engine light) if engine is cranked with sensor disconnected. Ignore or erase the code after testing. Refer to vehicle service manual. Off-Car test: Slide a flat piece of iron or steel in and out of the sensor slot. Use a scrap piece of sheet metal, knife blade, steel ruler or similar.
Good sensor - Single flash on PULSE light whenever metal is moved in and out of slot. (The flash will occur either when the metal enters the slot or when it is removed - depends upon sensor.) Bad sensor - PULSE light OFF during testing.
Red Red Yellow Black
Chrysler Distributor Hall Effect
Yellow
Black
Ford Distributor Hall Effect (PIP Sensor, TFI-IV Ignition
2-52
Section 2 Section
Testing Ignition Modules

Save yourself time! Always begin with a thorough visual and hands-on inspection. You can often find the cause of many problems by just looking. Has the vehicle been serviced recently? Sometimes things get reconnected to the wrong place, or not at all. Poor grounding can cause no-starts! Some modules make ground connections to vehicle chassis. Check mounting hardware, module flanges and chassis for clean contact surfaces and snug attachment. Inspect wiring for: Contact with sharp edges. Contact with hot surfaces, such as exhaust manifolds. Pinched, burned or chafed insulation. Proper routing and connections. Check electrical connectors for: Corrosion on pins. Bent or damaged pins. Contacts not properly seated in housing. Bad wire crimps to terminals.
Troubleshooting Tips
5A
2 AC
6D L C2 4
Check crankshaft/camshaft sensors connected to ignition module. (Refer to page 2-46.)
Many ignition modules require heat transfer grease applied between module and mounting surface. Modules can overheat and fail if grease is missing or incorrectly applied.
3-1
Section 3 Testing Ignition Modules

Ignition Module Test Procedure GM Ford Chrysler Toyota Honda Nissan
Important: This test checks for dead modules causing a no-start. This test will not detect intermittent failures due to heat or engine vibration. Refer to vehicle service manual for module location, removal and installation procedures. Module access may require distributor removal. Follow service manual procedures Check ignition timing with a timing light when the distributor is reinstalled. Always check the 9 volt battery in the tester (refer to page 1-4).
1) Locate module diagram on proceding pages. 2) Connect test leads as shown. Begin with the Test 1 hook-up if more than one test is shown.
HIGH LOW
Always make sure metal clips make good contact and do not touch each other. 3) Set RANGE switch to LOW. 4) Set FUNCTION switch to FREQUENCY. 5) Observe PULSE light for test results. Flashing light means good module. (There may be a short delay before flashing starts.) No flashing means bad module.
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
PULSE
Note: The bottom TEST lights may also flash. This is normal and may be ignored.
Exception: When testing ring type modules (lower half, page 3-11), spin the distributor shaft to activate the PULSE light. (Light on or flashing during spin means good module.)
3-2
IGNITION MODULES
GM 7 & 8 pin modules only: Reconnect test leads as shown in Test 2 diagram. Observe PULSE light. It should NOT be flashing. If PULSE light flashes, module is bad. Short pins E and R together using paper clip (or other metal jumper). Observe PULSE light for test results. Flashing light means good module. (There may be a short delay before flashing starts.) No flashing means bad module.
Ford modules with two test hook-ups: Reconnect test leads as shown for Test 2. (Only the Green test lead is moved.) Observe PULSE light for test results. Flashing light means good module. (There may be a short delay before flashing starts.) No flashing means bad module.
3-3

GM 4 and 5 pin
Black
*
Yellow Red Green
Test clip must touch both base plate and bushing
BUSHING BASE PLATE
Black
*
Yellow Red
3-4
Green
GM 7 pin
Test 1
Black
Black
*
Yellow Green Red Green
*
Yellow Red
Test 2
Black
Test clip must touch both base plate and bushing
BUSHING BASE PLATE
Yellow Green Red Blue Jumper
Black
*
Yellow Red Green Blue Jumper
3-5

GM 8 pin
Green
P N
Test 1
+C
GBRE
SIDE VIEW
END VIEW
Red
Yellow
Black
Green
P N
Test 2
+C
GBRE
SIDE VIEW
Red
END VIEW
Yellow
Black Blue Jumper
3-6
Ford Dura-Spark
Blue Jumper Red Red White Black Black Yellow Green
(or Black/Green)
MODULE Green Orange
Note: Dura-Spark ignition modules come in several versions with different connector types. Make connections based on ignition module wire colors. Other module wires not used for testing.
Ford TFI
Blue Jumper Black
Green
4 5 6
3 2 1
Red
SIDE VIEW END VIEW
Yellow
3-7

Ford TFI-IV
Test 1:
Black
Connect leads as shown. Move Green lead to pin 5. Other leads remain in original position
Green
Test 2:
6 5 4 3 2 1
Red Yellow
SIDE VIEW
END VIEW
Ford TFI-IV
Test 1: Test 2: Connect leads as shown. Move Green lead to pin 5. Other leads remain in original position
Green
Red Yellow SIDE VIEW END VIEW Black
3-8
Chrysler 4 and 5 pin

Black
5-pin type shown. 4-pin uses same hook-up.
Red
Yellow
Green
Magetic Reluctance Pick-up
Yellow
5 1 4 2 3
Black
Green
Red
Hall Effect Pick-up
3-9

Honda
2 3 4
Black
Green
Red
Yellow
Red Yellow Green Yellow
Red Green
3 4
1 4
Black
3-10
Connect BLACK test lead to igniter mounting holes or a metal ground inside distributor.
Honda/Nissan
Yellow
C B
Red
Bushing
Green
Base plate
Yellow
Black
Connect BLACK test lead to a good ground inside distributor.
I W
Black
Not present on some modules. Test clip must touch both base plate and bushing
Red
IMPORTANT
1) Remove distributor from engine before testing. 2) Module remains inside distributor during test. Red Yellow
Black
E B I
Red
Yellow
Black
E B C I
3-11

Nissan
Test clip must touch both base plate and bushing Bushing Base plate
S B I E
Black
Pick-up pins
Yellow Green
Red
Nissan One-Coil System (Photo pick-up)
1987-1989 300ZX only
Nissan uses two types of connector wiring. Module is good if either hook-up tests O.K.
Yellow
Green
Black
*
Green Black Yellow
OR
*
Yellow Black Green
*
1 2 4 3
Yellow
*
OR
1 2 4 3
Black
3-12
Green
Black
Green
Yellow
Nissan Two-Coil System (Photo pick-up)
Yellow
Green
Black
Nissan uses two types of connector wiring. Module is good if either hook-up tests O.K.
*
1 2 4 3
Yellow
*
OR
1 2 4 3
Black
Green
Black
Green
Yellow
Green
Yellow Black
Not present on some modules.
3-13

Toyota
Yellow
Use a paper clip to connect test lead.

Red Green
Black
Connect BLACK test lead to igniter mounting hole or good vehicle ground.
IMPORTANT
For Toyota modules not pictured, refer to vehicle service manual and connect as follows: Red lead to battery pin Yellow lead to coil pin Black lead to module ground
3-14
Green lead to IGT pin
Toyota
Red Green
BROWN BLACK
Yellow
Black
C Ext
I, T F
Green Yellow Red
3-15

Toyota
Green Red
Yellow
Yellow
Black
Green
3-16
Toyota
Green
Black Red Connect BLACK test lead to igniter mounting hole or good vehicle ground.
Yellow
3-17

Toyota
Black Connect BLACK test lead to igniter mounting hole or good vehicle ground.
Green Red
Yellow
Use a paper clip to connect test leads.
3-18
Toyota
Yellow
Red
Green
Green Yellow
Red
Black
3-19

Toyota
Yellow Red
Green
Black
3-20
Toyota
Red Red Green Green
Yellow
Red Green
Yellow
F T
Yellow
T F B
Green
Connect BLACK test lead to igniter mounting holes.
Black
+
C
SG
B SG
Yellow
Red
3-21
Notes
3-22
Section 2 Section
4
HIGH LOW
More Uses for the Ignition Module & Engine Sensor Tester
Circuit Voltage Checks

This function is useful for checking the presence (or absence) of voltages throughout the vehicle electrical system (such as wiring, switches, relays, and connectors). It is safe for probing computer and sensor circuits. Warning: Observe all safety precautions when working on vehicles (see page ii).
POWER OFF
1) Set FUNCTION switch to VOLTS. 2) Set RANGE switch to HIGH. 3) Connect BLACK test lead to circuit ground. 4) Probe with YELLOW test lead. Warning: Do not connect to secondary ignition circuits - dangerous voltages present!
RANGE
FUNCTION
VOLTS
over5 4.5 4 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 .5
TEST
5) TEST light position indicates measured voltage. Each light represents a 0.5 volt step along a span of 0.5 to 5 volts. Top TEST light ON - voltage is 5 volts, or higher. Other TEST lights ON - see illustration for voltage level. All TEST lights OFF - voltage is less than 0.5 volts, not present or negative polarity. Important: Always make sure all connections are good at the contact points. Negative voltages, no matter how large, will NOT turn on TEST lights. More than one TEST light on, or jumping around, means the measured voltage is erratic or rapidly changing.
4-1
Section 4
Continuity Checks
Test wiring, ground connections, switch operation, relay contacts, or similar. Important: Do continuity tests on unpowered circuits only. Always make sure all connections are good. If necessary, scrape away corrosion, paint, etc. at the contact points. Warning: If working on-car, turn ignition key OFF and observe all safety precautions (see page ii).
HIGH LOW
POWER OFF
1) Set RANGE switch to HIGH. 2) Set FUNCTION switch to OHMS. 3) Connect YELLOW test lead to one end of circuit (such as wire, switch or relay contact).
RANGE
FUNCTION
Yellow
4) Connect BLACK test lead to other end of wire, switch or relay. 5) TEST light position indicates amount of continuity. Black Yellow Black All TEST lights OFF - Short Circuit (measured resistance is 200 ohms, or less). Top TEST light ON - Open Circuit (measured resistance is 7 Kohms, or higher).
TEST TEST
Short circuit
Open circuit
Other TEST lights ON mean circuit has resistance between 200 ohms and 7 K ohms.
HIGH LOW
Low Resistance Checks

RANGE switch on LOW. FUNCTION switch on OHMS. Use YELLOW and BLACK test leads. All TEST lights OFF - resistance is 30 ohms, or less. Top TEST light ON - resistance is 300 ohms, or higher. Other TEST lights ON mean resistance is between 30 ohms and 300 ohms.
POWER OFF
RANGE
FUNCTION
4-2
More Uses for the Ignition Module/Sensor Tester

Continuity Checks (cont.)
Yellow
Black
Yellow
Black
TEST
TEST
Switch Closed
Switch Open
Yellow
Black
Yellow
Black
12V
TEST TEST
12V
Ground Connection
No Ground Connection
4-3
Section 4
Diode Checks
Tests diodes and rectifiers for proper operation.
HIGH LOW
POWER OFF
1) Set RANGE switch to HIGH. 2) Set FUNCTION switch to OHMS. 3) Connect TEST leads as shown in Figure 1. ( YELLOW to anode BLACK to cathode) 4) The bottom TEST light should be ON. If a different TEST light is on or all lights are off, the diode is defective. 5) Reverse test lead connections as shown in Figure 2. ( YELLOW to cathode BLACK to anode) 6) The top TEST light should be ON. If a different TEST light is on or all lights are off, the diode is defective. Note: Always make sure all connections are good. If necessary, scrape away corrosion, paint, etc. at the contact points.
RANGE
FUNCTION
Yellow
Black
Black
Yellow
TEST
TEST
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
4-4
Warranty
(Garantia)
FULL ONE (1) YEAR WARRANTY

Actron Manufacturing Company, 9999 Walford Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio 441024621, USA warrants to the user that this unit will be free of defects in materials and workmanship for a period of one (1) year from the date of original purchase. Any unit that fails within this period will be repaired without charge when returned to an authorized factory repair center. Actron requests that a copy of the original, dated sales receipt be returned with the unit to determine if the warranty period is still in effect. This warranty does not apply to damages caused by accident, alterations or improper or unreasonable use. Expendable items, such as batteries, fuses, lamp bulbs and flash tubes are also excluded from the scope of this warranty. Actron Manufacturing Company disclaims any liability for incidental or consequential damages for breach of any written warranty on the unit. Some states do not allow the disclaimer of liability for incidental or consequential damages, so the above disclaimer may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have rights which vary from state to state. All information, illustrations and specifications contained in this manual are based on the latest information available from industry sources at the time of publication. No warranty (expressed or implied) can be made for its accuracy or completeness, nor is any responsibility assumed by Actron Manufacturing Company or anyone connected with it for loss or damages suffered through reliance on any information contained in this manual or misuse of the accompanying product. Actron Manufacturing Company reserves the right to make changes at any time to this manual or accompanying product without obligation to notify any person or organization of such changes.
Customer Service Centers

Actron Manufacturing Company
9999 Walford Avenue Cleveland, Ohio 44102-4621 USA Tel: +1-261-651-9200 Fax: +1-216-651-2853
Actron - Europe
Coppen Road, Dagenham, Essex RM8 1NU UNITED KINGDOM Tel: +44-(0)181-984-8855 Fax: +44-(0)181-984-8866
Actron - Europe
60 Rte de St Gemme 78860 St NOM LA BRETECHE FRANCE Tel: +33-1-30802205 Fax: +33-1 30802182
Product Information & Repair Product Information & Repair
Product Information Only
Made in the U.S.A. Actron Manufacturing Company 9999 Walford Avenue Cleveland, Ohio 44102-4696
1997, Actron Manufacturing Company Part No. 2-221301

Actron CP9087

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E& R UL TE OD TES M R ON SO ITI EN GN NE S I I G EN

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Vehicle Service Info

Vehicle Service Manuals

Vehicle Service Manuals from General Motors Corporation

Vehicle Service Manuals from Toyota, Honda, Nissan

Vehicle Service Manuals from Chrysler Corporation

Post Office Box 1000 Plymouth, MI 48170

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Tester Basics ............................................. 1-1 Testing Sensors .......................................... 2-1

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4 PULSE Light 5 RICH/ LEAN Lights

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Sensor Tester Power

Installing the Battery

Checking the Battery

Inspect all vacuum hoses for:

EGR VAC REG

EGR VAC REG

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Section 2 Engine TEMPERATURE

Typical Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

Typical Air Temperature Sensor

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Section 2 Testing Sensors

Engine Air TEMPERATURE

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Section 2 Testing Sensors

TYPICAL THROTTLE POSITION SENSORS

Throttle Position Sensor

Throttle Position Switch

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THROTTLE POSITION Sensor/Switch

Section 2 Testing Sensors

GM, FORD, CHRYSLER, HONDA

Black test lead to sensor ground pin

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THROTTLE POSITION Sensor/Switch

Yellow Black Yellow Black

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Section 2 Testing Sensors

THROTTLE POSITION Sensor/Switch

Section 2 Testing Sensors

THROTTLE POSITION Sensor/Switch

Section 2 Testing Sensors

FORD EGR Valve

HONDA EGR Valve

LOW MIN. MAX.

Location When to Test

Attached to the top of the EGR valve.

EGR Valve Position/Lift Sensors

EGR Valve Position Sensor Test Procedure

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Section 2 Testing Sensors

EGR Valve Position/Lift Sensors

Section 2 Testing Sensors