Ferro Cement Water Tank
Ferro Cement Water Tank
Ferro Cement Water Tank
Be Advised
The following power point presentation assumes that individuals using it to construct ferro-cement tanks have a basic knowledge of geometry and calculating circumferences and volumes of spheres so as to select the proper volume of tank needed for the water system design being used. Further, the number of entrances and exits to the tank will again depend on the design of the system but at a minimum, a water system tank should have a clean out and overflow; entry of water from the water source; and sufficient exits to serve the distribution system design.
Materials
3/8 reinforcing rods
1 galvanised pipe
Wire
Mesh
Door
3 inch reinforced rods are welded
welded to the centre of the spider and connecting rods, to support an 1 galvanised pipe that will support the roof. Cement Sand Gravel Water
0.3m
0.15m
2.50 m
BASE
Site Preparation
Cut enough room for the entire tank to sit on solid ground.
Tank Floor
Supports for the wall frame are attached to the base frame . Second layer of concrete
Base frame
Trap door
Water
PVC Pipe
No glue is used on the coupling or PVC tube, so that the PVC tube can be extracted easily, in order to empty the tank.
Coupling
Elbow Overflow
Mark onto the boards, a depth of 30cm for the base. This is the recommended base depth for tanks up to the size of 10m^3.
Use fishing line and a level to ensure that once the cement is poured, the base is level.
Tank Base
Mould Wall
15cm 15cm
Cement
Rocks
Galvanised Rods
From the outside in, attach four more rods on each side of the square, with the ends bent over the outside frame.
Attach the rods using small pieces of metal wire, ensuring that once tied, there are no sharp tails left. For rods that are parallel to each other, a simple wrap round and twist with a pair of plyers, will be sufficient
For rods that are perpendicular to each other use an iron workers knot illustrated in the pictures opposite.
Place 4 iron rods diagonally across the inside of the square so as to strengthen the grid
Place the spider in the centre of the grid and attach iron rods to its spokes. The number of rods used will depend on the size of the tank.
The ends of the rods are bent upwards so as to receive the frame of the tank once the cement has been poured over the base.
Before fixing the rods in place, ensure that they are spaced correctly. Ideally they should be attached at 0.15m intervals.
Finally fix rods on the sides of the square, to complete the grid.
All rods should be bent down into the space between the board and the rocks to form the outer walls of the base.
It is not necessary to smooth the tank floor to perfection, but use fishing wire to ensure that the floor is level.
Attach the 1 galvanised threaded pipe to the two spiders, using the 1 pipe couplings on the spiders.
Once the cement is dry, attach the roof spider to the centre pole
FRAME
Starting at the base of the tank, bend an iron rod around the tank to form a ring. In this case it was necessary to use two iron rods fastened together by wire. Once the ring is complete lift it towards the roof of the tank. Repeat until there are the desired number of rings.
Before fastening the rings to the frame, ensure that they are spaced correctly, by 0.15m The larger the spacing, the less firm the mesh will be when covering with cement.
Bend iron rods around the roof of the frame, again ensuring that they are spaced correctly by 0.15m Attach the specially designed trap door. It may be necessary to cut the iron rods to make a large enough hole.
MESH
Use small 5cm strips of wire, thread through the mesh to attach it to the frame at each junction of the 3/8 reinforcing bar
There will need to be one person threading the wire through and another inside tying the wire. It is important to ensure the mesh is tight against the frame and that it is as free as possible of dents and bumps.
If two sections of mesh are required to wrap around the body of the frame, ensure they are tied together, by threading wire through both segments. Finish by attaching segments of mesh to the roof.
PLASTER
The tank and base will need a total of five coats of cement. Using a trowel and ensure that the cement is smoothed over. Begin on the outside. It will be difficult as cement will fall through the wire mesh, but once the first layer has been completed it will become easier.
Once the first outside layer has dried, it is possible to begin plastering the inside. The roof and tank walls will require a total of 5 layers, 2 inside and 3 outside.
It will be more difficult getting the cement to stick to the roof of the tank. Initially flicking cement onto the roof and then smoothing it over can prove effective.
Finishing Touches
The taps should be housed securely. In this case a simple cement box is created with cement lid that can be secured with a padlock.
Normally the exit line would have a valve to turn off the distribution line to the houses. If on the side of a hill, ensure that the tank is secure from potential land slippage. Here a wall of stones has been built behind the tank.
In temperate climates the tank can be either above or below ground. However in hot climates tanks are generally buried underground.