Dbs22 en
Dbs22 en
Dbs22 en
Parts
Base Plate
Guide
Drill Holder
Setting Template
Magnifier Instruction
EN
EN
The drill is ground to a 4-facet point. The Primary facets, P and the Secondary facets, S meet in the centre and form a point.
The drill is mounted in a Drill Holder (3) on a Guide (2), which in turn runs on a Base (1). You move the drill across the grindstone the grinding automatically takes place on the highest spot of the stone.
The high precision drill holder consists of two identical parts. The drill will be exactly centered and both of the cutting edges will be sharpened exactly to the same shape.
The grinding depth for the first two facets is determined by adjusting a setting screw which has a stop, P. These initial facets are called primary facets.
After grinding one facet, the drill holder is turned 180 and the other facet is ground to an identical shape. Now both of the two primary facets are ground.
After grinding the primary facets, the drill holder is moved forward to a second stop S for grinding the secondary facets, which gives the drill a 4-facet point.
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The point angle can be set at any angle by turning the guide. The jig copes with all point angles from 90 to 150.
The clearance angle () is set by tilting the base. It can be set at 7, 9, 11 or 14.
With the Setting Template you set the selected lip clearance angle. The picture shows 7. The Setting Template works on any grindstone diameter.
Lock it on a distance of approx. 14 mm (9/16") from the stone. The template gives you the right distance.
Slide the Base Plate (1) onto the Universal Support and lock it temporarily with the wheel (6).
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Turn the drill holder so the bevelled side points towards the machine.
Mount the drill with the protrusion L indicated by the stop on the Guide. Lock the drill temporarily.
Loosen the wheel and rotate the drill so that the cutting edges are aligned parallel to the horizontal lines on the Drill Holder. Tighten the wheel. The protrusion L does not need to remain exact.
Note! Here it is shown how to mount and grind a slightly blunt drill. Heavily worn and broken drills need a different setting in the Drill Holder. This is because the direction of the cutting edges changes gradually during the grinding. See page 13.
For small drills, up to approx. 8 mm (5/16") you can use the special Tormek Magnifier.
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The clearance angle. Place the Setting Template according to the image and tilt the base (1) so that the corners of the Setting Template touch the grindstone. Lock it securely with the wheel (6).
The point angle. Set the point angle at 118. Lock securely with the wheel (8).
Clearance angle. With the Tormek Setting Template you can set the clearance angle to 7, 9, 11 or 14. The Template recommends a suitable angle based upon the drill size and the material to be drilled.
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The clearance angle, . Here 7. Tilt the Base (1) so that both corners of the Setting Template touch the grindstone. Lock it securely with the wheel (6).
The point angle. Measure the existing point angle in the grooves on the Guide or select the angle which is most suitable for the job.
Set the guide on the selected point angle and lock with the wheel (8).
Place the Drill Holder (3) on the guide (2) so that the lug (11) touches the stop P.
Adjust the setting screw (13) so that the drill is approx. 1 mm (0.04") from the grindstone. Start the machine.
Set the cutting depth to zero by adjusting the stop P towards the grindstone until you hear the drill lightly touching the grindstone. Stop the machine.
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Screw the stop P further downwards (a) by as much as the tip should be ground. One turn is equal to 0.5 mm (0.02") cutting depth.
Lock the stop P with the locking nut (14). Start the machine.
Press the drill holder towards the grindstone and grind one of the primary facets. Move the guide back and forth across the grindstone.
Lift and turn the drill holder 180 and grind the other primary facet in the same way.
Grind alternately both the primary facets until they reach over the centre of the drill.
You can tell by the decreasing sound when the primary facets P are ground equally. How far they are ground over the centre does not matter. It is important that they are ground symmetrically. The primary facets should meet and form a flat chisel edge, C.
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Loosen the wheel (6) and tilt the base to an approx. horizontal position.
Lift and move the drill holder forwards so that the lug (11) rests on the stop nut S.
Tilt the base until the heel of the drill touches the grindstone and lock it with the wheel (6).
Screw the stop nut S forwards. Start with 1 turn for a 6 mm (") drill. The setting screw should still be locked with the locking nut (14).
Start the machine. Press the drill holder towards the grindstone and start grinding the first secondary facet. Move the guide back and forth across the stone.
11
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Continue grinding until the lug (11) touches the stop nut S.
Turn the drill holder 180 and grind the other secondary facet in the same way.
Now the 4-facet shape will start to develop, but the secondary facets S need to be ground further so that they meet in the centre and form a point.
Feed the nut S a bit further. Try with of a turn. One turn is equal to 0.5 mm (0.02").
Grind the two secondary bevels alternately until the lug (11) touches the stop nut S on both sides. Make the final grindings carefully and check that the facets are symmetrical and form a point.
This is how a ground drill should look like. The secondary facets S meet the primary facets P in the centre. The flat chisel edge has been shaped to a point, F.
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When the grinding is finished the primary facets P should be parallel to the horizontal lines.
Broken Drills
When mounting these are turned anticlockwise so that the edges E are parallel to the slanting lines. The primary facets are developing during the grinding and when the grinding is finished they should be parallel to the horizontal lines.
P P
Mount the drill so that the edges E are parallel to the slanting lines. After a few minutes the pri- Continue grinding until the mary facets P are ground. primary facets P are paralIt takes approx. 4 minutes lel to the horizontal lines. for a 10 mm (3/8") drill.
Thicker Drills
When grinding thicker drills (over approx. 10 mm or 3/8") for the first time, quite a lot material needs to be ground away to achieve the right secondary bevels. If you start by grinding away the heel on a bench grinder, you can save time. The heel has no influence on the function of the drill.
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Drill mounted correctly. The width of the primary facets are even.
P S
P S
The secondary facets S have been ground too much leaving primary facets too small. Loosen the wheel (6) and tilt the base to an approx. horizontal position.
Lift and move the drill holder so the lug (11) touches the stop P .
Tilt the base until the primary facet touches the grindstone. Lock it securely.
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Turn the setting screw (13) lightly towards the grindstone and grind carefully until the 4-facet point is established again.
Finer Surface
The Original Tormek Grindstone is 220 grit and gives a smooth cutting edge, finer than from conventional high speed grinding. After you have ground the drill bit to the right shape, you can use the fine side of the Tormek Stone Grader SP-650 to grade the stone so that it corresponds to 1000 grit. Then you can further refine the primary facets. The finer the surface of the edge the better it will cut and the longer it lasts. When grinding smaller drills (up to approx. 6 mm or ") it is recommended that you refine the grindstone from the beginning, since the stone otherwise can cut too aggressively on a small drill.
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The flute is honed on one of the profiled leather honing wheels. Select the wheel according to the size of drill.
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