BE THE DIVA

FROM THE WORKING MODELS GUIDE TO SUCCESS BY AUDREY BROOKS

The runway walk is that of excellent posture. Trends will vary and the walk style will change from show
to show, even, outfit to outfit. Good posture will never change; it creates better lines in the body and in the clothes. Mastering a basic walk, turns, poses and stances will enable you to easily pick up on the trends used at the shows.

POSTURE
Poor posture is a sign of low self-esteem. It can add a look of ten pounds to the body and causes many figure problems especially in the abdomen and upper thighs. Drooping shoulders cause a double chin, hump, potbelly, sway back, varicose veins, infections in the colon, kidney disease, pinched nerves and general bodily deterioration which causes you to age more rapidly. So, suck it in and pull it up! Hold your body with a lift, your attitude and mood will lift as well. Keep abdomen tight, ribcage lifted, buttocks tucked under, head lifted but moveable. Keep shoulders back and down. Keep hands loose to sides; do not let your hands cross over in front of you when walking. Check your posture and correct body alignment. Stand with your shoulders and buttocks pressed against a wall. Stand with your feet and knees pointing forward. Keep shoulders relaxed; chin level, arms at your side, with fingertips touching thighs. Only the thumbs should be seen from the front. Take a deep breath in and exhale. Bring the shoulders down, still aligned against the wall. Pro Trick: Tie arms back while practicing to walk to develop muscle memory of the shoulders being back.

STRIDE
When you begin to walk, the front foot always goes first, if stances are proper it will be the foot that does not have any weight on it. The stride of the step depends on the style of outfit. A more upbeat outfit such as sportswear and/or faster music gets a larger stride, no more than shoulder width. Casual clothes get a more relaxed and medium stride, a little more than a foots length. Formal attire gets a shorter stride, about a foot length. (A foot length is the measurement of your foots size.)

STYLE
All walks should be smooth and graceful. The transition between walking, posing and turning should be fluid. The style of a walk depends on the clothes and music. It is an attitude and stage presence. The choreographer and designer will decide the style of walk in a couture show. In smaller shows it is up to the model to show the outfit with the proper style, the more versatile the model, the more the model will be requested for upcoming jobs.

ARMS & SHOULDERS

As you walk the shoulders stay still, relaxed and back. The arms move naturally from the elbows, hands relaxed and slightly curved. Fingertips brush the clothes and only the thumbs are seen from the front.

The arms stay in a single line and do not sway around the legs or fly out to the side. When posing, the hands do not come in front of the side seams on your clothes. If your arms are falling forward, pull your shoulders back. Do not force movement of the arms, the arms and legs should move opposite to each other. Keep arms in control and close to body during turns.

TORSO & HIPS

The rib cage should be kept lifted, abdomen tightened, back straight, and the fanny tucked under. If you think you naturally have a swayback, you need to work on your abs. The body should be divided into two sections. The upper body stays still and the hips create movement in the clothes.

LEGS & FEET

Womens feet should be placed one foot in front of the other to create a single tract line. Practice on a wide piece of tape, beware of becoming obvious and looking awkward. Keep toes and knees pointed forward and do not over cross by stepping past the single tract line. Keep ankles strong when wearing heels, and do not walk with bent knees. Mens feet are kept a few inches apart. Toes pointed forward, do not over cross or single tract. Too wide of a stance creates a bowed leg look. Men walk casual and relaxed. Knees are in line with the toe, beware of feet turning out when you walk or dragging a step. SHOES The easiest shoes to model in have leather soles so they turn easily. Open back shoes are a hazard, they come off easily during a turn. High Heels need to be age appropriate. Keep your shoes classic and classy so they will go with all the outfits you are given to model

ATTITUDE
Fake it 'til you make it! Be the Diva!! Attitude and stage presence is Everything! Command attention on the runway by looking at the cameras and the audience in the eyes. Relay the mood of the outfit with your face, you should be a character. Smile, relax and enjoy every minute on the runway. You may feel awkward until you get it down. New models tend to imitate what they see, which is usually a tiny clip of the couture shows. The designers have models doing the easiest form of modeling on the planet; entering without an opening pose, walking, stopping at the end of the runway for a photo and exiting, all while showing absolutely no emotion what so ever and only looking straight ahead to the cameras. What you do not see are the shows that do have the models making eye contact with the audience and working it to sell the clothes. And only the design staff and agents know the inside stories of how models that do a horrible walk are not booked again by that designer or any other who saw them.

A great runway walk and fantastic attitude will get you everywhere in the high end of the modeling industry

WALKS
CLASSIC: The classic walk is a typical basic models walk. It is used for all types of modeling including runway. Keep the shoulders still and the movement of the arms start at the elbows. SLAP: The slap walk is a trend on the runway right now. It is difficult and only one in twenty seems to be able to do it. It you cannot do it, it is okay. The foot is picked up to ankle height and is brought over the other foot and placed completely flat into the next step. The body is held in hesitation position. The arms are relatively kept behind the body as if the body is leading them, yet still have movement. The hips are not prominent in the walk. Youve got to see this one to copy it! SPORTY: The stride is longer and the walk is upbeat without being bouncy. DRESSIER: The stride is shorter, revert to the classic walk. FEMALES: The feet are always placed into a single tract line. Do not over cross by stepping past the line. MALES: A single tract for a man is on a wide piece of tape. Keep the foot just on either side of the tape. There is a small space in between the feet. WALKING TIPS: Keep the toes pointing forward when walking. Do not force the arms to move or you will find they are moving with the feet instead of opposite. Do not walk on the toes, not even if you are barefooted, it does not make you look like you have longer legs or fool the eye into thinking you have on clear shoes!

POSES AND STANCES

BASIC T: The back foot is parallel to the back wall of the stage. Hips and shoulders are facing the side. The front foot is perpendicular to the back foot. Place the heel of the front foot, at the base of the back foots big toe. The front foots knee, toe and your head is facing the front. Shoulders back and arms to the side. Hands do not come in front of the side seams. Only the thumbs are seen from the front. Elongate the torso and lift the hips. Do not sit into the back leg by popping out the hip. COCKTAIL T: The same procedure as the Basic T only there is more space between the back foot and the front foots heel. OPEN MODERN T: The stance is the same as the Cocktail T. The body is facing full front instead of to the side. Weight is mostly on the foot that is farthest back. CASUAL STANCE: The feet are approximately shoulder length apart and are parallel to each other. CASUAL SHIFT: Simply shift the weight from one foot to the other while in a stance. ENTERING FROM SIDE STAGE: The back foot always stops first and the front foot steps into place. EXITING TO SIDE STAGE: Start walking with the front foot towards the side you wish to go. CROSS-OVER STEP:

When in a full front stance, simply step with one foot across the other and start walking up the runway. When walking, crossing over the single track line is a bad cross over. WALKING OUT OF A POSE: The rule is the front foot always steps first.

TURNS
T TURN: A three step turn from a Basic or Cocktail T 1) Take a small forward step with the front foot. 2) The back foot makes an inverted step in front of the first foot. 3) The first foot slightly lifts the heel and rotates on the toe to complete the turn. You should now be facing back in a perfect T stance. Repeat to face the front. PIVOT: A pivot can be done from any stance. It is simply lifting the heels and doing a half turn on the toes. The back foot will become the front foot and can take off walking. BACK PIVOT: An advanced pivot but not complicated. The front foot is slightly lifted and steps back while the back foot lifts the heel and rotates on the toe. Continue to walk up the runway. Most turns are done as inside turns. A back pivot is an outside turn. TEN OCLOCK TURN: A 10 oclock turn is done from the Open Modern T stance. It is a three step turn. 1) Shift weight to the front foot or step in place. 2) The back foot makes an inverted step to the imaginary 10 o clock pos ition. 3) The first foot slightly lifts the heel and rotates on the toe. You should be facing back in a perfect Open Modern T stance. Repeat to turn to the face the front. NINE OCLOCK TURN: A 9 oclock turn is done the same as a 10 oclock only you step t o the 9. This turn can be made from a Casual or Open Modern stance. QUICKIE TURN: An advanced turn done traveling up stage. It is basically a T turn without pausing. The first step in the turn is considered while you are walking. The second and third steps are done together and a back pivot is added at the end to continue walking without a hesitation. STOPPING IN A T: When walking down the runway, stopping in a T enables you to pose facing font. To stop in a T, place the back foot into Basic T position and then stop while placing front foot into position. TURNING INTO A T: When walking down the runway, turning into a T stance will put your back to the audience. Consider the first step of a T turn the last step of your walk. The second step is the inverted and the pivot. You are now facing back and just turned into a T.

BOX: When reaching the end of the runway, the left foot will step to the side as in casual stance. The right foot will then step directly back in a single-track line and continue to walk up stage. A pause can be added to the casual pose. This technique requires attitude to pull off the look. SPORT: When reaching the end of the runway, the right foot steps inverted and the left foot leads back up the runway. Its as if youve decided to just go the other way. To advance the sport add a hint of a childs skip to the left foots first step while the right foot is about to take its first walking step up stage. TURN TIPS: Do not sit into the hip at the end of a turn or bounce. Make the turn effortless and fluid.

CHOREOGRAPHY EXAMPLES
WATERFALL: All models walk down the center to the end of the runway and alternate the way of following the perimeter up stage. WALKING THE PERIMETER: It is just what it sounds like, following the edge of the stage all the way around. GROUP BOX: Models walk down stage close to the center, but following road rules and staying to the right of the oncoming model. At the end of the runway each model does the box and returns up stage close to the center, models passing each other literally brush each other. CRISS CROSS: Models trade sides of the runway at the same time. Can do while walking down or back. SIDE TRADE: Models on either side of the runway - facing out to audience - turns together and crosses to other side of runway - can turn or hold facing out. FAN: Five models start in a pose up stage and walk in perfect sync together down stage until reaching the half way point. This is where it gets confusing, the models fan to stage right and pose at the edge of the runway in a Basic T. Pivot and walk straight across to stage left, pose in a Basic T, pivot and fan again to the main runway. The models continue to walk in perfect sync upstage and end by turning into a T. The director or choreographer of the runway/garment show will instruct the models how they want the show to run. If you have the basic techniques down without being able to think about it you will not have any problems adapting to new choreography and will be able to model with confidence. New trends are started on the runways at fashion week and spread quickly throughout the industry.

WORKING THE RUNWAY

OPENING POSES: When entering the runway you will either make an opening pose or continue to walk down the runway without hesitating at the opening pose position. Poses can be any of the stances or poses. DOWN STAGE POSES: Working the end of the runway with the many variations of turns, stances and combinations. You can stop with your back to the audience at the end of the runway. CENTER STAGE: You may choose to stop center stage going down stage or up stage. The only rule working center stage is dont stop walking and pose with your back to the audience. ENDING POSE: An ending pose is generally done at the end of a runway routine back at the opening mark. Turn into a T, or do half of a 10 or 9 oclock turn to face the front. Dont make it hard. Its the last chance the audience has to look at you, so make it great! *Do not stop with your bum to the audience for your ending pose! STAGE NOTES:

(DS) Downstage: To the audience (US) Upstage: Away from the audience (SR) Stage Right & (SL) Stage Left: Perspective from the model

CATWALK RULES
The rules on the runway are the same as on the road. Models passing each other stay to the right, unless the director specified otherwise. Modeling basics are the same all over the world. Many times you do not get a pre-show rehearsal, the stances, turns and positions are called out and BAM youre on!

TIPS AND SECRETS Engage the audience is the #1 key to being a successful model. Success is a model who sells clothes! Models who know how to work the garments (how to show off the flow, function and details) are going to be requested again and again. When doing a pose on the runway, only hold it for a few seconds, same as walking with a hand an a hip... 3 seconds is a good guideline. Exception is if the designers instructs differently. Do not do too many 'poses' on the runway, it looks forced and unnatural, - amateur. Transitions should be smooth and effortless. Models seen on TV for fashion week walking for top designers often do not have any expression. The designer has instructed them to do this -they do that because they do not want the model upstaging the garments. This is NOT a good thing to do in a local market where the audience is everyday clientele, at fashion week the shows are put on mainly for buyers and the press - the cameras are straight ahead. Designers cringe when the papers and magazines mention the models over the garments. Formal High Fashion- typical long runway stage with cameras at the end of downstage - Keep your eyes straight ahead while walking and during turns for as long as possible. *Look into the cameras! The live audience is brief, the image from the cameras are forever. A model who does not know how to work the camera just cost the designer a prime marketing opportunity that will not come again. Local High Fashion- the buyers at these shows are mainly everyday shoppers, fashionistas and press. The show is created to show off the clothes, create an event that inspires people to buy clothes. The audience is trained that a style show means clothes for sale - it is also a means of entertainment. If you live, sleep, eat, breathe fashion- you get it! This is the fashion industries recital!! Turns -:do not keep the head stiff and in line with the body while turning. The body turns and the head is still facing the audience then the head turns. The head turns back to the audience and the body follow.

SAMPLES OF RUNWAY & GARMENT SHOWING

Perfect Posture, shoulders back and still, chin level. Arms move from the elbows down, thumbs forward, fingers brush clothes, giving movement to specific garments. Toes forward, step single track Always picture perfect. At local shows, smile and engage with the audience. Couture shows focus straight ahead to the main cameras.

Notice every photo is 'picture perfect'. The models are single tracking their arms and feet. The majority of these photos are taken from primary market designers shows, held for buyers and the press.

The expressionless face is misleading to young new models who can walk like a diva and photo pose with the best of them but can only present one face. Do not fall into this rut, it will keep you from being booked again. When a designer is shooting a look book or a campaign and every photo has the same expression - the shoot is ruined. It is also frustrating for the photographer to work with a 'one trick pony' of a model who can not 'EMOTE' or change it up with their energy, rhythm and expression. BRING IT models! Exception is if the designers or photographer is going for the no expression look.

The designer wants the model to be void of expression so they do not steal attention away from the

clothes. Her arm looks out of line, but it is the angle of the camera. Notice the girl coming onto the stage in the background. Looks like a crossover step, she is coming in from an angle. This pic is great to see stage positions. Perfect spacing.

The models makeup, hair and expression seems to not exist - they are a walking hanger - look at these clothes!

Working accessories: Keep control of bags, unless the are small do not let them swing around. Always be mindful if you are not the only model on the runway. An unexpected whack by a bag can send the model off the runway.

Working a jacket must be effortless, be mindful of how you naturally put on, take off, and carry your jacket.

Exception to the 3 second rule. Often hands on hips for entire walk. Necessary when it shows the details of the design to be sure it is not missed & sometimes holds clothes on!!