THE NIGERIANS ARRIVED

ichard Ved elago is 29 years old and worth more millio ns than he's prepared to tell. 'Money talks, buc wealth whispers,' he says with a smile, sitting back in the bar at C laridge's - his idea - and lazily sipping an elderflower juice. T hat wh ispering is noc, the oil , gas, p roperty, telecoms and menswear tycoon goes o n, typical of a N igerian m indset: 'Very loud, quite brash, larger than life even if you're just having a family meal, everything's over the top all the time. So it's quite fun.' Real fun , he sho uld have said. Nigerians all say they work hard and party hard, believe char they're better ar anything than anyone else, collect PhDs like confetti and are intensely entrepreneurial. 'When mankind finally gees to Mars,' chortles Areh Jewel, who has both a film production company and a beauty business, 'they'll find a N igerian already there, cutting a deal.' You don't have to go to Mars, o r Lagos, co see the fruits of that in action. M isan Harriman - whose fathe r, C hief

H~~E

Photographed by AMELIA TROUBRIDGE

Styled by SOPHIE GOODWIN

They fly from Lagos to London by private jet, they love Belgravia and bespoke suits and they play polo with the princes. David Jenkins talks fast cars, champagne wars and casual racism with Africa's new golden girls and boys

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Hope H arriman, was o ne of the found ing fathers of modern Nigeria - 'practically lives on Mount Street', eating in Scott's, going to George all the time and making his way down to 5 H ertford Street with his business parcner, Boris Becker (Tm like the other woman in his marriage'). Y ou'll find 44-year-old Kola Karim, the boss of Shoreline Energy International, playing polo with the Duke of Cambridge and Prince H arry at Lo rd Lloyd-Webber's p rivate estate; see old Wykehamist Anthony Adebo, who sprinted and fenced for England, having breakfast at Colbert and late nighrs at Boujis; hear Kessiana ('Kessie') Edewor-Thorley

roaring with laughter over d rinks at Bluebird as she mockingly says that for moneyed young N igerians in Lo ndon, it's Cirq ue du Soir on a Monday, 'rhat awful place D ukebox' on a Tuesday and Loulou's on a T hursday. Meanwhile, Florence ('Cuppy') O cedola, the 20-year-old ex-King's School Canterbury daughter of Femi O ced ola, o ne of N igeria's richest men, studies business and French ac King's College London, while DJing ar Prive, Jalouse, D isrricr, Funky Buddha and D 'Den, a truly N igerian club in Finchley Road. Meantime, Kessie, her rwin sister Eku Edewo r (Nigerians pop our more rwins than

anyone else) and their old chum Adora M ba recall the golden days ofKabarec, 10 years back, when they were srill naughty teenagers at large in London. T he scene's moved on, bur 10,000 nights are spoken o f, though nor admicced to, by all the beautifully spoken and exquisitely mannered people I speak to. And one young man, the budding oil and property mogul Rotimi Alakija - whose mother, Folorunsho Alakija, is the richest black woman in rhe world (oil) and dropped l OOm on four flars in O ne Hyde Park ('She d id n't mess around,' says Vedelago, who helped sell chem to her) - cells me a N igerian champagne war in an American club ended with che winner spending 1. 1m, though Rotimi certainly wasn't rhere: 'Thar's jusr silly. Ir's nor part of who I am .' Mind you, on one night ac C irque du Soir, the hard-roiling Rocimi and his friends sent a pal ac another cable a borrle of champagne, and 'he senr back 20!' Bue then, 'we're a very celebratory culture,' says Kessie (ex-Benenden, inrernational sales manager fo r Lazul resort wear and a freelance stylise), 'so every day's a champagne day. It's nor, "It's your birthday!" It's "You gor back fro m work day! Lee's parry!"' N igerians are this country's sixth-highest fore ign spenders, racking u p an average 628 in each shop, four times whac che average British shopper coughs up. Selfridges is a favourite, as is Harrod s, wh ich has been looking for Yoruba-speaking staff- the research uni t ac che shopping company Premier Tax Free reports char, fo r Knighcsbridge, 'Nigerian spend so far this year has increased by 52 per cent'. Premier Tax Free also says that N igerians accounr for 46.3 per cenr of total African sales in London, and chat the fasresr-growing region for internatio nal sales in the UK chis year has been Africa, whose spend has risen by 45 per cent year on year. No wonder che managing di rector of H arrods and che chief execu tive o f Gieves & H awkes inveigh against the governmenr's proposed policy of demanding a 3,0 00 cash bond fo r a visa from visito rs from N igeria, G hana and four Asian counrries. More chan 140,000 N igerians come here an nually- why make Paris a more welcoming option? Meanwhile, accord ing to Vedelago, Nigerians are investing 250m in Bri tish property every year and, says one African expert, 'they're buying up swathes of north-west London' to add to the earlier generations' happy huncing grounds in Belgravia, St Joh n's Wood and C helsea. (Vedelago also says they're buying up student accommodation in Liverpool, Birmi ngham , Sheffi eld and Leeds.) And N igerians spend 30 0m ann ually ac British u niversities and schools - King's School Canterbury, Wycombe

ROTIMI ALAKIJA WEARS WOOL SUIT, FROM A SELECTION, BYGIEVES& HAWKES. COTTON SHIRT, FROM A SELECTION, BY ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA. SILK TIE, 69, BY THOMAS PINK

Abbey, C heltenham Ladies' College, Eton, Harrow and Bradfield among chem. It's the African century, and here in London the Nigerians are the standard-bearers, jostling the Arabs and the Russians out of tl1e picrure. Noc thac Nigerian old money is entirely happy wich whac ic sees as gross ostentation: it is, says another founding fach er's daughter, 'vulgar'. But, for Nigerians, home is a pressure cooker and London is where they relax. And shop. Al l of wh ich mighc seem jarring from a councry of 17 0 million people, 70 per cenc of whom live on under 1.25 a day. (Sixcy-cwo per cenc of chem are under 25.) Even on Viccoria Island - 'che Island,' as che locals call the smarcesc pare of Lagos - the roads are potholed and the elecuicicy incermiccenc ac besc. Bue, says one English Africanisc, 'Nigerians respect power, and chey respect money.' People believe 'm y rime will come', says Folarin G badebo-Smith, direccor of the Cencre for Public Policy Alcernacives in Lagos. 'Whereas chere's thac sense in many ocher places thac where you find yourself in society could be permanenc, here everybody is rich-in-waiting.' And money certainly sloshes around Lagos coday, che produce noc jusc of the black gold thac o il brings and has broughc since oil producrion scarred in 1958, bur of the property boom (land on Lagos's Banana Island is as expensive as any on earth), che banking boom, che celecoms boom, che high-life boom. 'T c's glirz.y and glamorous,' says Vedelago. 'People drink d1ampagne like wacer.' H e's righc: Nigeria's che second fascesc-growing champagne marker afcer France. Toca! consumption reached 752,879 boctles in 2011 and the councry is spending around 4 1.41 bn naira ( l 59m) on the drink annually. Moec Rose is a favourite - Nigerians have a sweet cooch - chough the councry's in che cop 10 for H ennessy cognac and is geccing more and more partial co wine. Still, champagne's che thing: even in fast-food joincs like Southern Fried C hicken in Abuja, tlie capital, there are boccies of Moet in the fridge. And it's noc just alcoho l: annual GDP growth has been around seven per cenc during che past few years, and chere's an emerging middle class co join che rich elite. And though Nigerians pour abroad co buy-buy-buy, Western retailers are moving in: Zegna has opened in Lagos, as have Boss, MAC and l.'.Oreal. Malls are opening, and retail's tlie nexc big thing. 'You could make a killing,' says Cuppy Ocedola, who loves Topshop - perhaps Sir Philip Green should cake noce. 'As much as there's corruption and things don'c work here,' says one Lagotian bus inessman, 'right now, Lagos is very cosmopolitan, because tliis is where

EKU EDEWOR, NEAR LEFT, WEARS DRESS, FROM A SELECTION, BY JEWEL BY LISA. SUEDE & LEATHER SHOES, 680, BY NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD. RINGS, FROM A SELECTION, BY JAGGA MEHTA. SAPPHIRE, RUBY, DI AMOND & SILVER EARRINGS, 2,969; GOLD, OPAL, TANZANITE, DIAMOND & TOURMALINE BRACELE T, 36,667, BOTH BY AMRAPALI. RINGS, FROM A SELECTION, BY

JAGGAMEHTA
KESSIANA EDEWORTHORLEY, FAR LEFT, WEARS DRESS, FROM A SELECTION, BY JEWEL BY LISA. SUEDE SHOES, 695, BY NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD. CRYSTAL, METAL, LAPIS LAZULI & BEAD NECKLACE, 1,925, BY BEA VALDES, AT GIFTLAB. GOLDVERMEIL & AMETHYST RING, 120, BY DIDI. RING. FROM A SELECTION, BY

JAGGAMEHTA

the money is, and there's a lot of money pushing around.' Ir reminds one English expatriate of Moscow in the N ineties, and Google co-founder Sergey Brin has described Russia as 'Nigeria, with snow'. Perhaps that's why N igeria has gone from being dubbed the happiest society in the world in 200 3 by New Scientist to being called the most stressed-au t society on earth by Bloomberg earlier this year. Certainly, says Eku Edewor, 'Lagos is the hardest place in the world to make money and the easiest to spend it in.' By 'hard' she means tough, on the nerves. When Vedelago

returned to Nigeria - like many in rhis story, he went to p rep and boarding school in England (King Edward's School, in Surrey, in his case) - a friend told him, 'You've got to learn to swim with the sharks.' Eku (who went to Benenden) has done that, bur others find the cur-throat hustling, the hassle, rhe corruption, the sheer in-yourfaceness too much to handle. So how d id Eku manage? O nce o n Britain's Next Top Mode4 she's the face of Martini in Africa, a face of BlackBerry in Nigeria and was a co-presenter of Big Brother Africa. Tm a TV presem er.

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When I went back, there was an open audition to be the new face of a channel, and I got it.' She's been with her show for five seasons and she's now the only presenter - 'Ir's a bit like E! News'; she's also just finished her first drama series. She's evangelical about Lagos and derisive about IJGBs ('I Just Got Backs'), as many returnees are known. 'They're talking about life with a driver putting fuel in your car! If you go to Lagos thinking that's what you deserve, then it's going to be very hard for you -you've got to adapt. If you give yourself a year and a half to settle in ... Bur it was rough for me. I hadn't seen that side of Lagos.' Though oil and gas is still the usual career path for the ambitious and connected, it's notable rhar several of the younger generation are trying to make it in the entertainment business. Chin Okeke - whose father is a prominent lawyer who's been honorary legal counsel to the British High Commissioner since 1989, and whose partner was once Nigeria's foreign minister - manages both Eku and 'music superstar' Lynxxx and is serring up an innovative branding/ music enterprise. He's also got a beach festival in the works. And

24th birthday in London with what was reported to be a 1.2m d iamond-encrusted bottle of Taste of Diamonds champagne (created by 'luxury designer' Alexander Amosu) bought for him by Liam Payne of One Direction. If they fancy 'local', they'll ear at Yellow Chilli or ~Afric - bur sushi's on the rise. What's always been big is the wedding culture, enormous affairs with thousands of guests. Also big are the Lagos Polo Club and the Lagos Motor Boat C lub, where all well-connected generations mix - and, no doubt, d iscuss the rwo almost identical, and large, yachts that sit next to each other off Victoria Island 's Carrington Crescent. One's owned by Cuppy's father, Femi Oredola his net worth is an estimated 2.2bn - and the other belongs to Aliko Dangote, Africa's richest man, with a net worth of 10. lbn via a conglomerate ranging from cement to sugar refining by way of oil. He gave himself a 28m jet in April 2010, as a 53rd birthday present. Dangote recently praised the government's policies, and he, O redola and many others have had close ties to N igeria's politicians - as

Cuppy, who toured N igeria with her first single, 'I Love My Country', this summer (which led to online abuse, saying, effectively, 'Of course she does, she's a billionaire's daugh ter'), is going to do a master's in m usic business in New York. 'There's a lot of money to be made; you d on't have to be the one on TV, che one in the forefront. So I might DJ for a while, then maybe step behind the scenes, open up my own record company - but do the oil thing on the side.' On rhe side? Well, N igerian women are powerful, and pragmatic. 'They're into things like dredging,' says Ateh Jewel. 'I've got an aunt who runs a port authority.' As Cuppy says: 'We've got a cabinet with five or six female members, which is pretty much unheard of. Our minister for petroleum is female, and our minister for finance, and fo r aviation, and for women's affairs, obviously. Bur in the entertainment industry, no - it's just nor spilling over.' Bur soon, maybe ... Meanwhile, they can have a good time. T here's been an explosion of beach culture on the Island - think Miami, a favourite Nigerian haunt - and che young things go to clubs like Likwid and Rhapsody's, dancing to the likes ofWizkid, a singer who marked his

has the 'stupendously rich' Senator Andy Uba, who's married to Richard Vedelago's beautiful sister, Faith, herself the founder of Faith M inistries, a popular and successful church. Richard has a 'ginormous' house nexr ro hers in Abuja, which he describes as a slower and calmer place than Lagos - like 'Washington to New York'. As well as that house, Richard has some dazzling cars in Abuja, including rwo Bentleys. There's a market for expensive cars, despite the potholed state of most N igerian roads, and Porsche has opened up there; its Cayenne 4x4s do well, as do Jeep Wranglers and the Mercedes G-Wagon. Bur one N igerian rold the Guardian that 'I have a Bentley, a Porsche and a Ferrari. Bur people don't travel by road any more. So rhe Ferrari in the garage hasn't done 500 miles in three years.' Vedelago had a Lamborghini in London, as well as a Bentley, bur he drove it so little that he ditched it. H e'd like ro buy a Smart car to go to the gym, bur friends jeer at the idea. 'So I'm looking for a Porsche or an Aston Martin.' He laughs. 'Sounds bad, doesn't it? A Porsche ro go to the gym.' Kola Karim does drive a very lovely, very yellow Ferrari Italia 458 here in London, one of rwo he was given by 'generous friends -

good friends'. H e had it parked recently in Chelsea, 'and this lady said her son would love ro have a picture with the car. I said, "Feel free." And then she said, "Who do you play for?" I said, "Play what?" "Football," she said. 'What team did I play for? Was she being racist? No. Bur chat was her understanding.' The auromatic assumption was that a prosperous black man could only be a footballer or a rap star. Bur Karim, a very successful businessman who's taken his mother's trading company into construction and oil, does indeed encounter racism. 'Oh, yes. Ir's normal. There's a lot of ignorance around.' Ignorance that ranges from stewardesses automatically shepherding you rowards economy to policemen pulling you and your Ferrari over. 'In the country recently, we went to lunch at a restaurant. We walked in, and the whole place stopped earing - it was like we were going ro pull a gun and stick everyone up.' Then some local grandees appeared and sat down with Karim - at which point other people from other tables felt it was in their interests to meet this funny foreigner. Ir's happened as well to others in chis article, at nightclubs in London and Paris. As for Cuppy, she was in Switzerland, interning at an oil-trading company, when the story about Oprah Winfrey being mistreated in a shop in Zurich was reported. 'Jcwas hilarious. [Score sraff] were all over us. I loved it. I wish Oprah complained every time.' Mind you, says one man, 'I find green is accepted everywhere.' 'Yes,' says Karim, only half-laughing. 'When you're wealthy, you don't see it. Either the guy wants to collect your money, or not.' Bur far more important for Karim is showing char there are 'berrer and berrer prospects' for his continent. 'Because Africa's like a pair of shoes. You wouldn't get good money for it if it wasn't polished. Ifir's dirty and it looks worn our, no one wants ro buy it. We're trying ro show the world a side of Africa they don't see.' That's why Karim was more than happy ro let Ralph Lauren throw a parry for him and donate 15 per cent of the Bond Street store's takings that day to a charity of h is choosing - one benefiting autistic children. '396 people curned up. Very successful.' (Misan H arriman helped set it up, and Carrier have been in touch with him about a similar event; he sees great potential in acting as a conduit between Nigeria and the West.) Kessie Edewor-Thorley was there, and Nacho Figueras, and rwo of Karim's own polo ponies, outside rhe store - the other I 0 were, as usual, at the Royal County of Berkshire Polo C lub. Next year, Karim will focus on buying a farm in England and keeping his equipe there. H e's got another acquisition in mind, too: a Premier League football club. CONTINUED ON PAGE l49

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ANTHONY ADEBO WEARS WOOL SUIT, FROM A SELECTION, AT KINGDOM COUTURE. COTTON SHIRT, 89; SILK TIE, 69, BOTH BY T HOMAS PINK. SILK POCKET SQUARE, 40, BY TM LEWIN. VELVET & LEATHER SHOES, FROM A SELECTION, BY ARFANGO BY ALBERTO MORETTI GROOMING BY MARK COOK, USING GIORGIO ARMAN I FOR STOCKISTS, SEE ADDRESS BOOK. FASHION ASSISTANT, LUCINDA TURNER

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'If you imagine a continent of900 million people who are foot ball crazy, imagine the followership of an African businessman. Think about the markering. It's awesome.' Even more so if his currently 12-year-old son were playing - he's been scoured by Chelsea already. Meantime, the boy attends Bruern Abbey, while his older sisrer goes to Benenden and his younger one to 'Holland Park Prep'. Karim's son plays polo too, as does his brother, though Karim's handicap's gone down from +2 to 0, 'with so much work going on. We're rhe second-largest independent oil producer in Africa, by reserves [ 1.3bn barrels], and we're building.' No wonder he has homes in Lagos, London, Marbella and Miami. Karim's firm has a private jet, but he prefers to fly commercial - he's a people person

rravel, wirh one nanny for each child. Ir's 'if someone wanes basic food - milk, bread, cheese, yogurt - I'll go somewhere like W hole Food s, and I'll pick up rhe principal [her employer] on the way to Farnborough and load it on the plane and send it off' le could be for a dinner or 'ir could be their everyday food. T hey don't necessarily want to shop in Abuja, because they may think the quality of the food is better here. So I have one family who loves the sausages they get from Whole Foods. And the scones.' Private: it's the only way for scones to travel. But thar 'premium economy' jibe sums up a claustrophobic sense chat all social eyes are upon you in Lagos, one that has contributed to Adora Mba leaving her o il-world job in Lagos and moving into a job in marketing consulcancy in Mayfair. She felt suffocated. She was, she says, born in Britain and schooled here Wycombe Abbey and Brisco!. She spent only four of her very young years in Nigeria. She became an IJ G B and she fou nd ir roo much, for now. 'Who knows if I'll go back? Ir's a very exciting place and it's coming up in the world. Bue my [dream] house - I know it, I feel it - is going to be in Primrose Hill.' Dream on,

and flying alone bores h im senseless. Bue his fellow polo enthusiast Prince Albert Esiri, a 'well-known' billionaire - he's been playing fo r 33 years, has a handicap of zero ar H am in chis country, a srring of 133 ponies and N igeria's 'premier private polo facility' in Delea Scace - flew into the 20 12 UAE Nations Cup in Dubai in his personal Gulfstream G2 jer. Ochers too are keen on private jets, not lease because BA's London flights are packed and expensive - N igerian newspapers rage ar the comparative cost of first-class tickets to London from Lagos and Accra, both being much the same d istance and Accra half the cosr. And fi rst class it just has to be. 'Yeah,' cackles Kessie, relishing the absurdity, 'you hear people saying, "And they travelled premium economy!"' Bue for those who go private... Well, Ansemu Fagonpa is a 36-year-old South African who manages 'the family office' of a very select group of fam ilies from 'very much the upper end of Nigerian society'; al l are worth more than I OOm and l 0 per cent of char is in liquid cash. 'So I do a lot of crazy things -well, things that money can allow you to do.' Bue it's not just h iring scar chefs for p rivate dinners or dealing with the logistics for the way Nigerian famil ies

Adora: Lagotians are invading Lo ndon. 'I know people who've bought houses in Walton Street,' sighs Kessie. 'Tcan't go o ut in my sweats any more; I'm always seeing people I know.' People who'll rel] her morher, a restaurareur and d ecorator who's the daughter of the Obarisi and Olokun (which , Kessie helpfully explains, mean 'King ofAll Kings' and 'King Maker') of the Urhobo Kingd om of Delea Scace; her marernal grandmother was a princess, educared at UCL and called to the bar at Lincoln's Inn . T hat sort of background isn't uncommon among Nigerians who've been educated here. Anthony Adebo's grandfather, Simeon Adebo, was an under-secretary general at the UN and Chancellor of Lagos University; an Okanlomo (chief) of rhe Yoruba, he roo read law ar UCL and was called to the bar. Lagun Akinloye's father, Adisa, was the Seriki oflbadanland and read law ar the LSE. A cabinet minister in the Sixties, Adisa was forced to flee the country in 1983; Margaret Thatcher helped him find a house in Eaton Terrace. Aki nloye went co Davies Laing & Dick, and then to Leeds. Although he knows - and put me in couch with - many in this article, he's less on the scene, working as a journalist for the

London-based T hink Africa Press. T he N igerian now residing in London whom he'd really like to interview is James Ibori, a former governor of Delea Scare who's in jail for 13 years fo r money laundering and fraud. l bori had plenty ofic: he paid 2.2m in cash for his house in Hampstead when his official salary was 3,700 a year. No wonder 94 per cent of N igerians chink their politicians corrupt scarcely surprising in a country where it's been authoritatively estimated chat 250bn of oil revenues have been stolen or misspent since independence in 1960. Akinloye shrugs wearily. 'People in N igeria don't ask how you gor ic,' he says. Still, he chinks chat in 2015 a new political grouping, the All Progressive Congress, may unseat the People's Democratic Parry, the conservative and economically neoliberal parry char has held power since 1999. 'Bue,' he w ri tes in a cogent piece, 'that of itself does not guarantee ordinary Nigerians will benefit.' Meantime, Akinloye hangs out with a 'creative' N igerian crowd in London, one that detests the moneyed scene. For chem , ostentation is symptomatic of the destruction of moral values in N igeria. ' Bue,' says Akinloye, 'if they had a contract [and the money chat brings], I bet they'd be singing a different tune.' And wearing berrer clothes, like Richard Vedelago, who, wich singer Robbie W illiams, is the largesr investor in Spencer Harr, the tailor. His jacket tells an interesting, pose-colonial story: inside are the letters 'HRH HART', a clue to its original commissioner, the Duke of Camb ridge, who in the end found its (very accep table) blue a little bold for him. Perhaps W illiam would be more in rune with Anrhony Adebo. Beautifully turned our in a silverish-grey suit of his own design, a mildly hungover Adebo sics before me, picking at an omelette in a cenrral London rescauranr. He's back in London after a spell in Lagos, which he's finding 'fascinating'. H e's keen on Likwid, is toying wirh raking 5 Hertford Street to Lagos, chinks Ilashe Beach and Tarqua Bay are fabulous and is going to steer clear of politics - doing so was almost a fam ily edict after h is uncle, Funsho Williams, was murdered in 2006 while running for the governorship of Lagos Stare. Still, 'the general rerm is enjoyment - there's a lot of money coming through.' And though he's been working in PR in Lagos, he's also busy in Britain, sercing up a suit company called Y ork & W indsor. 'York because rhar's where the trad e really starred in rhe UK - all the mills were up there. And Windsor because the Duke ofWindsor is my favourite best-dressed man of all time.' He smiles. 'Closely fo llowed by Prince Charles, of course.' N igeria and the UK: a special relationship indeed. D

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