Cotton Cotton

REACTIVE DYEING
Reactive dyes are dyestu which carries a reactive group and gives a reaction with the cellulose fabric. Reactive dyes group according to their reactive groups.

CLASSIFICATION OF REACTIVE DYES ACCORDING TO THEIR REACTIVE GROUPS

REACTIVE GROUP MONOCHLOROTRIAZINE(MCT) TRADE MARK CIBACRON CIBACRON E PROCION H,HE,SP DRIMAREN P SUMUFIX H REMAZOL SUMUFIX SYNOZOL VIVIZOL CIBACRON T-E DRIMAREN X LEVAFIX E LEVAFIX E-A DRIMAREN K CIBACRON F LEVAFIX E-N LEVAFIX PN SUMUFIX SUPRA REMAZOL SN SYNOZOL VIVIZOL DYE PRODUCER CIBA-GEIGY DYSTAR DYSTAR CLARIANT SUMITOMO DYSTAR SUMITOMO KISC&KISCO EKSOY CIBA-GEIGY CLARIANT DYSTAR DYSTAR CLARIANT CIBA-GEIGY DYSTAR DYSTAR SUMITOMO DYSTAR KISC&KISCO EKSOY

SULFATOETHYL-SULFONE(VS)

TRICHLOROPYRIMIDINE(TCP) DICHLOROQUINOXALINE(DCQ) DIFLUOROCHLOROPYRIMIDINE (DFCP) MONOFLOROTRIAZINE(MFT) FLOROCHLOROMETHYL PYRIMIDINE MONOCHLOROTRIAZINE/ B-SULFATOETHYL SULFONE (SUPRA)

BIFUNCTIONAL REACTIVE DYES

These bifunctional dyes carry two reactive groups on the same chromophore group as, Vinyl sulphone - Monochlorotriazine (VS-MCT) Vinyl sulphone - Vinyl sulphone (VS-VS) Vinyl sulphone - Monouortriazin (VS-MFT) Dyeing Reaction and Role of Alkali During the dyeing of cellulose with reactive dyes, Hydrogen ion of cellulose react with Chloro(Cl) or Sulfone(SO3) of the reactive group and forms a strong acids like Hydrochloric Acid (HCl) or Sulphuric Acid H2SO4. Alkali (Soda Ash or Caustic soda) is important to neutralize this strong acid which will otherwise cease the reaction. Addition of alkali controls rate of reaction of the dyeing mechanism. Therefore it is important to add the alkali slowly. If pH of dyebath increases at full speed, reaction to the right goes very fast and hence patchy dyeing is inevitable. Soda ash Cellulose - O H + Cl - R - Dye Cellulose - O - R - Dye + HCl Role of Elektrolyte (Salt) with Reactive Dyeing Reactive dyes for cotton have negatively charged active groups, they are anionic. When cotton or viscose fiber immersed into water, its surface due to hydroxly ions become also anionic, hence they- the dye particles and the cellulosic fiber-tend to repel each other.
OH OH OH OH OH
W ater

S O3 ce

Dy e

The addition of salt, creates an electical positive double layer which hides negative electrostatic charge of cotton surface. This allows the dye approach the fiber.

Na

Na

Na Na +

OH
Na
+

Dye

Na

Na

Na

+ +

OH
Na + Na
+

Na

Dye

If electrolyle is not spreaded-out uniformly on cotton surface, dye distrubution will not be even also and patchy dyeing is unavoidable. After the addition of salt and dye, suicient period of time should pass, for the even distrubution of salt and the dye . This levelling period us between 30 and 45 minutes, depending upon, Circulation speed. Flotte ratio. Primary exhaustion property of dyes.
Na + Ions Dye particles + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

1 min Salt+Dye

pH:6

40 min Salt+Dye

Uniform dyeing results with acceptable fastness properties can be obtained by controlling these parameters, properly.

Parameter A) Temperature Increase

Eect Reactivity increases Substantivity decreases Migration improved Hydrolization increased Reactivity increases

Result Low built-up Beter levelling

B) pH, Increase

Substativity increases Built-up increases Migration improved Hydrolization increased High built-up Low migration Low dye solubility High build-up less unlevelling

C) Electrolyte

Substantivity increases

D) Low Bath Ratio

Less hydrolization High economy

NOTES Since sodium sulphate generates less sodium ion with respect to NaCL, cotton surface becomes less substantive. Which is precondition for light shades. So sodium sulphate is preerred; Light shades, Blue 19 and Blue 21, Viscose fiber. In case low bath ratio and high circulation dyeing machines, electrolyte concentration should be decreased. Please check back side tables. If bath ratio is increased, e.g. in sample dye units, salt amount should be increased. After the addition of salt and dye, at least 40 min should be elapsed, to obtain perfect dye distrubition and migration. In case of high bicarbonate content of process water, final pH is around 9,8 - 10,2 which is very low for good fixation and shade repeatibility. Optimum pH should be around 10,8 - 11. BUFFERON R11 is alkali buer and ensures this pH level on any bicarbonate content.

EKSOY developed, a sophistaceted buer alkali which keeps the pH between 10,8 11 to obtain; High fixation, Better shade repeatibility, Shorter wash-o period. Pls. consult our local agents, to obtain more detailed information, concerning BUFFERON R11 .

HOW to SELECT BEST VIVIZOL COMBINATION

LIGHT SHADES
Both Light and deep shades have dierent problems respectively. Therefore dierent characteristics should be required during dyestu selection. The main problems in light shades are; Low light fastness Unleveled dyeing Poor Repeatibility When the dyestu amount in a combination becomes trace amount, the dyeing yield varies enormously from batch to batch and hence shade changes. In order to solve the above problems EKSOY, suggest to use following dyes in the combination below OWF 1 %. This specially designed group is less sensitive to parameters like liquor ratio, temperature, electrolyte, soaping time etc. and they had higher light fastness. For higher light fastness good compatibility, we advise (light fastness 4 and 4/5) VIVIZOL YELLOW HFL VIVIZOL RED HFL VIVIZOL BLUE HFL VIVIZOL GREY HFL

MEDIUM SHADES 1 - 4 %
The main problem with medium & dark shades are; Long dyeing & washing time, Low wash fastness, Metamery, Unevenness of braun, khaki and an anthracite shades.

Substantivity of conventional Yellow 145 and Red 195 and Navy Blue in three chromee recipes are not overlapping. Navy is a fast dye, whether the other two, are slow exhausting dyes. So uneven dyeing is inevitable especially in sensitive shades, like braun, khaki, anthracite. EKSOY developed new range of dyes with similiar substantivity, to produce uniform dyeing of above mentioned shades. VIVIZOL YELLOW BM-FS 150 % VIVIZOL RED BM-FS 150 % VIVIZOL BLUE BM-FRS VIVIZOL NAVY BLUE BM-FS

DARK SHADES >4 %

EKSOY developed, DBR series, for the purpose of; Low dye cost Excellent compatibilty High wash fastness High hydrolization stability High repeatability Low dyeing residue High levelled dyeing Our DBR range covers; VIVIZOL YELLOW DBR VIVIZOL RED DBR VIVIZOL NAVY DBR VIVIZOL ORANGE DBR VIVIZOL DEEP RED DB

TURQUOISE SHADES
Major problems existing in Turquoise dyeing; Unevenness, Dye deposits, Long washing time, Repeatibility, Most of the Blue 21 dyes, have lower solubility, in the presence of electrolyte. Dye tend to agglomerate and deposit on substrate as dye ecks. Due to fine selection of raw meterials of Eksative Turquoise Blue, our dye has high solubility in the presence of salt and never gives dye deposits.

Since phthalocyanine dyes are very sensitive non-ionic wetting agents, scouring agents in the bleaching bath should be choosen accordingly and prior to addition of Turquoise dye into the dyeing bath, fabric should be treated with PES CLEAN Temp. Time 1 g/L 40 oC 10 min

Without draining, dyeing is processed. As mentioned before, as electrolyte, sodium sulfate is preferred. In color matching with Turquoise Blue, we recommend VIVIZOL BRILL. YELLOW 3GL 150 % VIVIZOL NAVY RN VIVIZOL BLUE HFL VIVIZOL BLUE BM-FRS VIVIZOL YELLOW 3RS 150 % VIVIZOL BLUE Rsp VIVIZOL BRILL. BLUE DBR Since reactivity of matching shades increases considerably at 80 oC, sometimes, due to high pH increase at the beginning of dyeing, uneven results can be obtained. In such cases, we recommend 80/60 oC cooling process (eg mercerised cotton, viscose, heavy fabrics, fine yarn knits)

BLUE RSP COMBINATIONS

As electrolyte, Na2SO4 is preferred and maximum dosage amount is 50 g/L. As lubricant, sequestrant or wetting agent, anionic-nonionic blends should be selected and total amount should not exceed 0,5 ml/L. Blue R loose its power at 80 oC, so 30/60 oC or 60/60 oC dyeing methods are more practical. If the raw fabric contains too much calcium salts, preliminary proton cleaning with, EXOLINE 4000 WEL E WET SH Temp. Time pH 0,5 ml/L 0,5 ml/L 60 oC 20 min 6 - 6,5 (Asetic Asit)

Drained and bleaching is started.

For complete build-up and goods reproducibility, final pH of Blue R dyeings should be around pH: 11. As complementary dye, we recommend with Blue R, VIVIZOL YELLOW HF-3GN VIVIZOL YELLOW 3GL 150 % VIVIZOL RED 3BL

VIOLETT COLORS
It is advisable to match the violett shades from original violett colors. For this purpose we recommend, with less metamery, VIVIZOL VIOLET HFL If dyemaster insist on Blue Rsp combination to make violett as complementary colors, we advise, VIVIZOL YELLOW HF-3GN VIVIZOL RED 3BL VIVIZOL YELLOW 3GL 150 %

GREY COLORS
VIVIZOL GREY HFL is a unique dye with high light fastness. All light grey shades can be approached, with bi-color combination in a safe way.

ONE-STEP, NO SCOUR, DYEING of DARK SHADES

In case of Black, Navy, Dark gren and Brown shades, No Bleach N is an eective emulsifier to perform scouring and dyeing in the same bath, hence saving water, energy, labor and time NOBLEACH N NEW EXOLINE 4000 WEL Salt BUFFERON R11 3 ml/L 1 ml/L 80 - 100 g/L 4 - 5 g/L
10' 20' 40 oC 30' 30' Dye 30' 15' 30' 45 - 60'

BUFFERON R11

NOBLEACH N NEW EXOLINE 4000 WEL Salt pH 6 - 6,5

1 g/L BUFFERON R11

DISCHARGEABLE DYES
VIVIZOL YELLOW 3GL 150 % VIVIZOL YELLOW HF-3GN VIVIZOL YELLOW HF-4GR VIVIZOL G.YELLOW SHF-3RD VIVIZOL G.YELLOWSHF-3RD 150 % VIVIZOL RED BB 150 % VIVIZOL REDSHF-GD VIVIZOL BLACK B 150 % VIVIZOL BLACKN Conz VIVIZOL EXTRA BLACK R VIVIZOL NAVY DBR VIVIZOL N.BLUE SHF-GFN 150 % VIVIZOL N.BLUE SHF-BR 145 %

BUFFERON R11
BUFFERON R11 is a stabilised alkaline buer for reactive dyeing. It ensures non-variable pH value at the end of dyeing, disregarding bicarbonate content of process water ( see prospect) It ensures; - Slower pH increase at the beginning of dyeing and hence better levelling - Higher pH approched compared to soda ash, hence color repeability, shorter wash-o time. Application amount is of sodyum carbonate usage. It is a powder product. In laboratory, salt amount is increased by 10 percent. In bulk, BUFFERON R11 amount is increased by 20 %, compared to Lab. recipe. Salt amount is increased also by 10 - 15 %.

LABORATORY DYE PLANT CONSISTENCY

In order to decrease the dierence between lab. and the plant, the following items should be checked. Check the temp of both machine by the same IR temp. controller. Check the bath ratios. Consider the weight-loss of lab. prebleached fabric. Since in the lab, peroxide trace amount on the fabric decomposed by time and during drying, in the plant, core peroxide should be eliminated by One more hot washing, or Increase the amount of catalase enzym. Elapsing time between soda start-up to the end of dyeing should be the same in lab and in plant. If liquid salt or alkali are used, dosage unit should be the same, as g or mililitre. In the plant, electrolyte amount can be decreased by 10 - 15 %, due to circulation speed dierence.

SOAPING AND RINSING

EKSOY is very famous world wide about foamless soaping compounds. Soaping is performed in a short period and with brilliant shades. We recommend, Cold rinsing, 5 min Cold rinsing, 5 min Neutralization / Soaping, 95 oC, 15 min EXOLINE 4000 WEL 0,8 %

Light (below 0,5 %) No soaping Rinsing, 80 oC, 10 oC Softening

Medium - Dark Shades > 0,5 % One time soaping Rinsing, 80 oC, 10 min Cold rinsing

STRIPPING THE FAULTY DYED REACTIVES

5 - 10 % Fading o: Our soaping agent, EXOLINE 4000 WEL, act also as fading o agent in alkaline conditions. EXOLINE 4000 WEL Na2CO3, EXOLUBE NC Temp. Time Stripping by Reductive Chemicals: Hydrosulfite/ NaOH combination is the most popular reactive stripping process. But since Hydro decomposon above 70 oC rapidly, stripping is not uniform and chemical consumption is excessive. Besides, unpleasant ador and sulphate in euent water is beyond acceptible limits. EKSOY introduced a stabilised reducing agent, MEGACLEAR 12; which is stable even at 130 oC, 3 - 5 times active then hydro and enviromentally friendly. MEGACLEAR 12 is applied at pH 11 - 12 with NaOH or POLYSTRIP 7 at pH 7 - 8. POLYSTRIP 7 is a buer alkaline and more interesting for viscose and/or weak cotton stripping. Due to low pH, degradation of viscose or cotton is negligible 1 ml/L 2 g/L 1 ml/L 95 oC 30 min

MEGACLEAR 12 NaOH, . POLYSTRIP 7 EXOLUBE NC Temp. Time

Conventional Dyes 3 - 4 g/L 4 - 6 g/L or 3 - 4 g/L 1 g/L 95 oC 60 min

Blue 19 and 21 5-8 6 - 12 or 4-7 1

CORRECTION (TOPPING) OF REACTIVE DYEING

In case of trace amount shading required into yellowish, reddish or blueish hue, Eksoy developed special reactive dyes for this purpose. Shade dyes are originally reactive dyes that are applied at boiling temp. and neutral pH simply during soaping . Levelling property of these dyes are excellent and does not impair wash and light fastness of original base color. SHADE dye EXOLUBE NC Sodium sulphate Temp. Time x% 1 g/L 10 g/L 95 C 30 min

AFTER TREATMENTS to IMPROVE of WET FASTNESS of REACTIVE and DIRECT DYES

Principle of these after treatments is to create a larger molecular complex with anionic dye on the fabric and cationic fixing agent and hence to reduce the solubility and lower rate of desorption. COLORFIX NF 200, is a non formaldehyde based, cationic fixing agent. Due to its enriched concentration, application amount is minute. Exhaust COLORFIX NF 200, 0,5 - 1 % Impregnation COLORFIX NF 200,

5 - 10 ml/L

THE AMOUNT OF DYE, SALT and SODA

DYE (%) UNMERCERIZED COTTON SODIUM SULPHATE ANHYDROUS / SODA g/L F;1:1 F;1:1 F;1:6 4 0 25/8 40/10 65/12 80/14 105/1 6 115/1 6 130/1 6 20/10 30/13 50/15 60/18 80/20 90/20 100/2 0 15/12 20/16 35/18 40/22 55/25 65/25 70/25 MERCERIZED COTTON/VISCOSE SODIUM SULPHATE ANHYDROUS /SODA g/L F;1:1 F;1:1 F;1:6 4 0 20/8 25/10 45/12 60/14 80/16 90/16 95/16 15/10 20/13 35/15 45/18 60/20 70/20 75/20 11/12 15/16 25/18 30/22 40/25 50/25 55/25

Below 0,5 0,5 1 1 - 1,5 1,5 - 3 3-6 6-8 Above 8

NOTE: In Tencel Dyeing ,the amount of sodium sulphate which is given for viscose should be decreased by 10 %. WATER QUALITY Ideal processing water quality should be near to the following specifications. Color Colorless Oder Oderless Hardness Below 5 german degree Insolubeless 50 ppm Organic content 20 mg/L (KMNO4) Inorganic salt 500 ppm Manganese 0,1 ppm Copper 0,005 ppm Nitrate 50 ppm Nitrite 5 ppm Bicarbonate 200ppm

VIVIZOL DYEING DIAGRAMS

30/60 oC PROCESS 60 oC 10' Levelling 30' 40 BUFFERON R 11 20' 5% 20' 95 % pH 10,8 - 11 30' - 60'

Dye 30 C
o

Sodium chloride/sulphate 1/10 3/10 6/10 10' 10' 10' 10'

1 C/min

5'

15'

ANTISIL CONZ 1 or ACC 0,5 g/L pH 6 - 6,5

ISOTERMAL DYEING (60 oC) Sodium chloride/sulphate 1/5' 3/5' 6/5' 10' 10' 10' 10' 30' Levelling BUFFERON R11 20' 5% 20' 95 % 30' - 60' 20' pH 10,8 - 11

Dye 60 oC 5' 15'

ANTISIL CONZ 1 0,5 g/L pH 6 - 6,5

VIVIZOL TURQUOISE DYEING DIAGRAMS

BUFFERON R11 30 - 80 oC SYSTEM 80 oC Sodium sulphate 1/10 3/10 6/10 10' 10' 10' 10' 10' Levelling 20' 5% 20' 95 % pH 10,8 - 11 1 oC/min 75'

Dye 30 oC 5' 15'

pH 6 - 6,5

VIVIZOL TURQUOISE DYEING DIAGRAMS

ISOTERMAL DYEING (80 oC) Sodium chloride/sulphate 1/10' 3/10' 6/10' 10' 10' 10' 10' 40' Levelling BUFFERON R11 20' 5% 20' 95 % 75' pH 10,8 - 11

Dye 80 oC 5' 15'

pH 6 - 6,5

80/60 oC Cooling Method

Dye 80

Sodium sulphate 1/10' 2/10' 7/10' 10' 10' 10' 10' 20' 15' 15' 20' 20' 75' pH 10,8 - 11

pH 6 - 6,5 60 C
o

5% 95 % BUFFERON R11

BLUE RSP DYEING DIAGRAMS

60 oC Sodium sulphate 1/10 2/10 7/10 30 oC 20' 10' 10' 10' 40' 15' 0,7 C/min
o

15'

20'

20'

30' - 60' pH 10,8 - 11

85 % 15 % BUFFERON R 11

Dye EXOLUBE NC pH: 6 - 6,5

BUFFERON R11, 5 %

Rev:01 / 31.10.2013