Fingerboard Training

Following are some training routines that have been developed through our own experience as well as that of our friends and associates. We are not professional exercise people. We are serious about our climbing and have seen the benefits of making training an integral part of our activities for many years. Our beliefs concerning training for climbing are the result of years of asking questions and searching for answers. From our perspective, the single most important thing to keep in mind is that each of us has a very unique and complex body. To be most effective, your training program starts with a critical and complete assessment of your strengths and weaknesses along with your goals for climbing. f you use this realistic list as a filter for all the information available, hopefully you will end up with an individual program that is ideally suited to you. There are now many sources of information out there that pertain to training for climbing. Try to keep in mind who you are and who the information is targeted to, a person who can afford to climb and train full time or the weekend athlete who wants to make some gains in strength and confidence. The bottom line in training is that you must be responsible for your own body and your own training schedule. !esearch the available information, listen to the "experts", take the time to experiment, and then do what works best for you.

Contact Strength or Finger Training is a Crucial Part of Improving Your Climbing

With the popularity and increased access to indoor climbing walls, fingerboards are becoming a second line method of training. #owever, we feel that there are some great advantages to the convenience and specificity of training boards. #aving a board mounted in a doorway to a spare room or your garage makes it easy to schedule a quick workout if a little time is all you have. The specific nature of fingerboard training enables you to gauge your progress much more effectively than bouldering at the rock gym or your home wall. t is easier to control if and when you fail doing a set exercise on a particular hold on a board, than if you are desperately thrutching for the last hold on your latest plastic bouldering test$piece. This factor will hopefully permit you to work to your limits while minimi%ing the chance of in&ury to your fingers. Finger training programs can be difficult to figure out. 'eep in mind that what you are strengthening is essentially connective tissue, tendons and ligaments. t takes a long time to notice gains in strength in this tissue and a very long time to heal once it has been in&ured. f you are using fingerboard training in addition to indoor climbing on plastic, be aware of how much stress you are putting on your fingers and arms, and be careful to not over$do your training. f you start having problems, allow yourself time to heal. f problems continue, specifically long$term pain and swelling in your fingers, consult a sports$oriented physician.

The Training
There are two general categories of exercises that you can do on your (etolius training board. n simple terms, they are exercises that build power or exercises that build stamina )endurance. *ndurance$oriented exercises are a set of tasks that put your muscles in a more or less aerobic state+ that is, training your muscles to function for extended periods. They generally are a longer duration and a lower load exercises and you are maintaining a lower level "burn" in the muscles than the pump you get at the limit of your strength. ,ower$oriented exercises focus on short duration, higher load tasks that your muscles can-t maintain for very long. With these exercises, you are building strength .muscle fiber si%e / and the capacity to recruit more muscle fibers for short, quick bursts of movement. 0ny of the training that follows assumes a good base strength level. (ost of the work or exercises that follow are power$oriented for a couple of reasons1 We feel that you can develop some endurance from a power workout, but you cannot develop good power from an endurance$oriented workout and in fact, it is best if they are trained independently. t is hard both physically and mentally, to hang on a board for the extended periods required to totally

target endurance. The amount of load you use for each exercise is up to you to determine. We feel the most gains happen if you use a safe maximum load for the cycle that you are in. Try to pick a load that allows you to barely hold on for the time indicated in the exercise. 2oad is determined relative to your body weight. f you need to add weight, use a weight belt. f you need to reduce weight, use a chair or step stool set back from and under the board that allows you push with one leg. (ake sure your other leg stays below you, so that if you fall, you land on your feet. 3ou can use a bathroom scale on a chair to give you a more accurate idea of how much weight you are taking off .see illustration/. f you don-t feel safe using this method, have a partner lift you instead.

Use Partners
,artners can check your time and remove or add weight as well as give you assistance and cheer you on when you-re trying to get that last bit of effort out. #aving a partner spot you when training to absolute failure is highly recommended.

Setup A Workout Schedule

Stick To It

(ake a chart and use it to keep track of your training. f you keep a detailed record showing amounts of weight and)or assistance for each segment of an exercise, it will be much easier to slowly increase your workload. These records will help you get the most benefit from your training time.

Use An! of the "olds For An! #$ercise

3ou will probably find that certain holds are better suited to certain exercises than others. For example, you would probably do pull$ups on different holds than short duration hangs. t is also important to look at your weakest points and train those first. For example, if you have a hard time holding onto sloping holds, focus your training there early in your workouts. t is also a good idea to change the holds you use for a given exercise every few weeks, to maximi%e the effectiveness of your training.

%os

%on&ts

0void doing an excessive number of pull$ups on your board. 0 lot of pull$ups on a static bar can lead to elbow &oint in&uries. f you wish to do more pull$ups than our exercises indicate, we recommend that you use (etolius !ock !ings. 0void range of motion exercises for your fingers on any training board. Once you place weight on a hold do not attempt to move your fingers .don-t do mini pull$ups with your fingers/ as this can lead to in&ury. 0void using crimp or cling grips. 0 very important aspect concerning any hold is how you hold on to it. t is extremely important that you do not use any kind of cling technique regularly. 4ecause of the increased angle of your fingers while clinging, the load on your finger &oint is far too high to be safe for training purposes. We have found that if you keep your hand more open, you will be safer and still can strengthen your fingers for both open$handed and cling holds. The illustration pictured shows both types of holds. 5se chalk when training and occasionally clean your board with a nylon brush to maintain a consistent surface.

The Tasks
Following are the basic elements of exercises that can be done on your training board1 #angs $ either straight arm or bent arm, one arm or both. When hanging straight, there should still be a slight bend to the elbows. ,ull$ups $ can be done with the hands parallel or offset . one of your hands on a higher or smaller hold than the other/. Offset pulls put more training stress on the higher or smaller hold arm and can more effectively simulate certain climbing situations.
2

'nee 2ifts $ #ang on good holds and bring your knees to your chest, bending at the waist and knees. This task works the often overlooked abdominals for that solid mid$body connection. 6houlder 6hrugs $ #ang as above and raise and lower your body without bending your elbows. This exercise works several different muscle groups in the shoulder girdle. 0s with pull$ups, we would recommend keeping repetitions low.

C!clic Periodi'ation
0s an overall strategy, cyclic periodi%ation allows you to be at your peak when you want to be. Whether this corresponds to a big road trip or pushing your limits when the weather is the best is up to you. f properly done chances of in&ury and mental burnout are minimi%ed and gains in strength and power are optimi%ed. The concept is simple+ build a base of endurance then work toward maximum power. 4y pushing your body in these cycles you strike a balance between letting yourself be fresh and strong within the cycles and not letting yourself totally adapt to the stresses of the workouts. This keeps you from stalling at different plateaus and makes the gains possible much greater than doing the same sets of workouts month after month. mmediately following the peak cycle you should be ready to climb strongly. The 7ycle 6hown 4elow Would 6tart 0gain n 8une

Peak C!cle (oad C!cle Conditioning C!cle

Intensity = .0% Volume = +ode#ate Loads = Low e!etitions = High "#e$uen%y = &-' days a wee( Intensity = )*% Volume = +ode#ate,High Loads = +edium e!etitions = +ode#ate "#e$uen%y = '-- days a wee( Intensity = 80-100% Volume = Low Loads = High e!etitions = Low "#e$uen%y = &-' days a wee(

I N T E N S I T Y

)ecover! C!cle
Intensity = *0% Volume = Low Loads = Light e!etitions = Low "#e$uen%y = & days a wee(

Warm$up and active rest cycle. ,reparation for more strenuous cycles

The foundation, endurance, connective tissue strength, some muscle power building.

!est and recovery, prep for peak cycle.

& wee(s "e0#ua#y

(aximum strength and power. (ost exercises done to failure. Taper training and focus on climbing midway through the cycle. 0fter cycle ends, no gym time. 3ou should be in peak condition for the crags for 9 to : weeks.

& wee(s No/em0e#

10 wee(s 1e%em0e# - 2anua#y

8 wee(s +a#%h - 3!#il

%efinitions
ntensity ; 0 percentage of your maximum effort, as applied to a single set or an overall workout. 0s an example+ when you are fully rested and it is all you can do to hang on a particular hold for one minute, then :<= intensity would be hanging for 9> seconds on the same hold. ,icking an easy to measure test such as this and getting to know the level of "pump" that corresponds to that intensity, then allows you to tailor other exercises to your particular goal. This is the crucial element of any workout program, one that determines the other elements and one that needs the most attention and ad&ustment. Think of intensity as a set point that you need to ad&ust upward as you get stronger or ad&ust downward if you are
3

not recovering between workouts. ?olume ; The length of your workout or how many sets or exercises. This is one of the easiest elements to ad&ust according to where you are in your training regime . up as you get stronger, down if you are not recovering/. !emember volume is not the same as intensity. 2oad ; #ow much weight relative to body weight. This assumes that for many of the exercises with certain holds you will need to add weight . by using a weighted belt/ or subtract weight .by having a spotter lift you or by placing a footstool under the board to lightly put one foot on/ to hang for a particular time for a set intensity. !epetitions ; #ow many pull$ups or separate movements in an exercise. Frequency ; #ow many days per week to train.

*ther #lements to Consider

Warm$up1 Take plenty of time to stretch and lightly work all the muscles you are going to use in your workout session. @rink plenty of water during and following workouts. 'now the difference between a healthy muscle ache and pain associated with connective tissue damage. There is no quicker way to sabotage your climbing goals than to try to train through in&uries. !est 1 figure out what you need for the different cycles and take itA 3ou should go into each workout without muscle pain. (icro$cycles1 These are incorporated into the longer, harder main cycles .load and peak / to keep you from plateauing within the cycle. 5sually done in a hard dayA easy dayA moderate day. This is intended to break up your routines enough that you stay rested, but still are not letting your body settle into one medium mode.

The #$ercises
These exercises can be added to or used instead of the ones shown in the following example workouts. The B>$minute sequences especially lend themselves to experimentation. They are good combinations of endurance and power work and can be adapted to training for a specific climb. 'eep in mind some general guidelines when thinking about adapting exercises to yourself. ,ower exercises keep durations of tasks short, with heavier or harder loads. *ndurance exercises are longer, less intense+ you should feel like you are maintaining a low$level pump. The easiest element of the exercises to change is generally load+ be familiar with the various ways to do this. n the exercise sequences that follow, if a C$minute rest is not indicated, proceed immediately to the next task.

Warming Up
One of the most important steps in muscular development and in&ury prevention is a thorough warm up. Denerally, the best way to do this is to warm up the large muscles that will be used first, and then move to the smaller. There are various ways to accomplish this+ start with low level aerobics, then general calisthenics or weight lifting. 3ou can follow this with a series of one or two pull$ups or a B> to C> second hang on each hold on your board, with a E>s rest between each task. Take time to stretch after you are warmed up, once again starting with the large muscles and working your way to your fingers. 0fter you are completely warmed up give yourself a rest of < to B> minutes before starting the workout.

#$tra Training Tips

0lways give yourself enough time for a thorough warm$up. This is undoubtedly the best thing you can do to keep yourself in&ury free.

Take some time before you start each hang to work your fingers into the hold. This "milking the hold" enables you to get a more powerful grip and mentally prepares you for the task ahead. When you are ready to hang for a time and after you have set yourself on the hold, let your body down directly below the hold, so that when you raise your feet your body does not swing. 6winging makes it a lot harder to hang on. To be most effective, once you have milked the holds and started your hang, don-t move your fingers on the hold. This is especially true when hanging on slopers. 4rush the holds on your board frequently, even between exercises. 'nowing the holds are clean and grease free is a big boost psychologically. 7halk your hands and fingers well before each task. For superior performance, on plastic or rock, use (etolius 6uper 7halk. ,ersonali%e your training regime and then stick to it. f you have a balanced program, with enough variety to keep you motivated you will get stronger. t takes time to see improvements, patience will make the gains come sooner. f you feel stuck on a ma&or plateau, go back over your original expectations and make sure they are realistic. Often, stalling may indicate you need more rest or a break from some part of your routine. Or it may mean take a look at what you can do to improve your motivation. Find a good partner to train with, dream about your next trip, or think about how good you will feel once you-re done with your workout. 0nything you can do to maintain your positive attitude will pay off big!

Principals
Fingerboards are most effective at training contact strength and general upper body strength. 7ontact strength, also referred to as finger strength, is simply the ability to hold onto the holds .as opposed to the ability to move between the holds/. t is the single most important type of strength for a climber to have. f you canFt even hold onto the grips, there is no way you will be able to move between them.

Fundamentals
#ow to Drasp the Drips1 3ou want to use an open$handed grip as often as possible. (ost climbers are weaker open$handed than crimped, so you may find this difficult at first, but youFll get used to it. Training open$handed will increase your crimp strength .but not vice$versa/, and it is essential for holding pockets, slopers, and certain edges, as well as making moves at maximum stretch and catching dynos. (ost importantly, however, using an open hand lowers the potential for in&ury. 0s you adapt to training, you can incorporate a little crimp training to increase your maximum edge$holding power, but keep it to a minimum. Warm 5p, Warm @own1 t is critical to warm up thoroughly. 3ou can start by climbing, bouldering, or doing easy pull$ups and dead hangs, along with gentle stretching. (ake the first B< minutes ridiculously easy and gradually increase the intensity until youFre at full power. !everse this process at the end of your session to prevent in&ury and speed up recovery. The warm down should be even easier than the warm up. t should feel as if youFre doing almost nothing. The idea is &ust to keep the blood flowing for B< or C> minutes after the high intensity part of your workout. !ecovery1 To maximi%e your gains and prevent in&ury, you should always be fully recovered before a training session. Got resting enough between workouts will soon lead to a plateau, quickly followed by in&ury and burnout. f it takes you longer than normal to feel warmed up, or if you havenFt noticed any improvement in E or 9 sessions, you probably need more rest. 2isten to your body and be flexible with your training schedule. (aking t *asier1 f you find certain exercises or holds too difficult at first, you can put one foot on a chair or have a training partner assist you to take off as much weight as necessary. 4e sure to have a clean, open, well$padded landing area, as an awkward, off$balance fall is a greater possibility when your feet are helping to take your weight.
5

Ten +inute Se,uence

The B> minute sequence consists of B> tasks, one performed at the start of each minute with the remaining time used to rest until the start of the next minute. t is an excellent format for training both strength and stamina in the same workout, for improving your recovery, or &ust for warming up. t is also a great way to simulate the demands of your current pro&ect. We have included two sample routines, but the ten$ minute sequence is most effective when you custom tailor it to your own personal needs. 4e creative and donFt limit yourself. t could be five minutes or thirty minutes+ you could do it in 9< second cycles or two$ minute cycles. *xperiment with your training and keep it as varied as possible.

E3SY
Time 1st min4 &nd min4 '#d min4 -th min4 *th min4 .th min4 )th min4 8th min4 7th min4 10th min4 Tas( ' !ulls +edium Edge 10 se%4 hang ound Slo!e & !ulls +edium Edge 1* se%4 hang Small Edge & !ulls ' "inge# 5o%(et 1* se%4 hang 2ugs ' !ulls +edium Edge &0 se%4 hang ounded Slo!e ' !ulls ' "inge# 5o%(et 10 se%4 hang +edium Edge & !ulls Small Edge 10 se%4 hang 2ugs - !ulls ounded Slo!e * !ulls +edium Edge ' !ulls 2ugs +a84 Hang ounded Slo!e

H3 1E
Tas( . !ulls ounded Slo!e &0 se%4 hang +edium Edge ' 5ulls 2ugs &0 se%4 hang Small Edge ' !ulls ' "inge# 5o%(et &* se%4 hang ounded Slo!e * !ulls La#ge Edge &* se%4 hang La#ge Edge ' !ulls +edium Edge '0 se%4 Hang ounded Slo!e * !ulls Small Edge &0 se%4 hang La#ge Edge ' !ulls 1 ',86 & "inge# 5o%(et &0 se%4 hang +edium Edge ' !ulls 1 1,&6 & "inge# 5o%(et 1* se%4 hang "lat Slo!e ' !ulls 2ugs +a84 Hang ounded Slo!e

+ore #$ercises
@ead #ang1 This is the fundamental exercise for developing contact strength. 3ou should master the dead hang on any particular hold before attempting any other exercise on that hold. Gever lock you elbows completely. 0lways keep a slight bend to prevent in&ury. 4ent 0rm #ang1 0 variation of the dead hang which will begin to develop your ability to pull through and lock$off. This can be done at any angle, and should be varied as much as possible. ,ull yourself up to the designated angle and hold a static contraction for the designated amount of time. 4e careful of doing maximal contractions at full lock$off, as they can be as in&urious as fully locked$out elbows. Offset #angs1 4egin as with the bent arm hang. 6hift your weight all the way to one side and hold a contraction. 6hift your weight laterally, all the way to the other side, without lowering your body and hold an equal contraction. !epeat. ?ary the angle of your lock$off, the duration of your lock$off, and the number of repetitions. ,ull$ups1 Try to be as smooth as possible. @onFt &erk, kip, swing, or otherwise cheat. 'eep your lower body quiet. @onFt lock your elbows completely at the bottom. Focus on maintaining perfect form, and donFt worry about the number of repetitions. Offset ,ull$ups1 The first step to one$arm pull$ups. ,osition yourself with your weight centered under one arm, as if to do a one$arm pull$up. 7hoose a lower hold with the other hand and give yourself &ust enough assistance to complete the exercise.
6

One$arm ,ull$ups1 Gow you really have some powerA Follow the same guidelines as for pull$ups but pronate your arm more. f youFre getting close, but canFt quite do one$arms, do an offset pull$up, but perform the negative contraction .lower yourself/ as a pure one$arm. The potential for in&ury is very high, so it is absolutely critical to be smooth. @onFt bounceA 2$#ang1 The emphasis here is on core strength. 7hoose a hold that youFre fairly comfortable on. 3ou can dead hang or bent arm hang. ,ull your legs up from the hips, keeping your knees straight and your toes pointed. #old a static contraction with your legs at H> degrees to your torso or do slow repetitions raising your legs as far as you can but only lowering to about 9< below hori%ontal. f you lower you legs all the way, it will take the tension off your abs and constitute a rest. The idea is to keep your abdominal muscles contracted the entire time. f straight leg raises are too difficult, bend your knees at a H> degree angle. Front 2ever1 Work up to these by performing them first with both legs bent at the knees, and then with one leg straight and one bent. f you can do a good front lever, try it with one arm.

C!clic Periodi'ation
We would next like to introduce cyclic periodi%ation as a method for planning a year of training. 0s an overview strategy, cyclic periodi%ation allows you to be at your peak when you want to be. ,roperly done, chances of in&ury and mental burnout are minimi%ed. 0lso, the amount of time you spend stuck at conditioning and strength plateaus tends to decrease. Our version of cyclic periodi%ation consists of five ma&or cycles, which are sequentially organi%ed to cover an entire climbing)training year. The five ma&or cycles are as follows1

Conditioning C!cle
@uring this cycle, you should train at :> to I>= of your maximum effort .if you can hang fully rested for one minute, then :<= intensity would be hanging 9> seconds/. The volume of work should be moderate, with long hang times and many repetitions. 6pend one to two days a week in the gym during this cycle. @o not push yourself to absolute failure. This period serves as a warm$up and active rest cycle. 0s a warm$up, the conditioning phase prepares the body for the intense training to come. 0s an active rest phase, it assures that no ma&or de$conditioning occurs, while providing a mental and physical break from strenuous workouts 4

(oad C!cle
@uring this cycle, you should train at I> to J> = of your maximum effort. The volume of work should be moderate to high with long hang times and many repetitions. Three to five days per week should be spent in the gym. The load cycle builds endurance, connective tissue and some muscle strength and provides specific movement. @uring this phase, work in micro cycles of a hard day, easy day and moderate day. Then, repeat the micro cycle with more weight and)or longer hang times. @uring the last part of the load cycle, you will actually be weaker than in the middle of the cycle due to the high volume. n this endurance$ oriented phase, you should only occasionally be pushing yourself to your absolute failure point. 6trenuous climbing days may occasionally be substituted for time in the gym.

)ecover! C!cle
@uring the recovery cycle you should train lightly at <> to :>= of your maximum effort. The volume of work should be low, with short hang times and few repetitions. 6pend no more than one to two easy days a week in the gym during this phase. The recovery phase prepares your body for the upcoming intense 4

Peak C!cle
@uring the peak, you should train at J> to B>>= of your maximum effort. The volume of work should be low with high resistance, low hang times, and few repetitions. Two to three days a week should be spent in the gym during this phase.
7

The peak cycle produces maximum strength and power .muscle hypertrophy/. 0s in the load cycle, work in a hard)easy)moderate micro cycle. n this phase, you should usually be pushing yourself to your maximum. (any climbers will need to hang weights from their waist to keep the hang times short. 5nlike the load cycle, climbing days cannot substitute for gym days during this phase.

*ff C!cle
@uring the off cycle, you should spend no time in the gym whatsoever. 3our body will now be peaked to climb very hard. Gow comes the tricky part K combining these cycles with your climbing time. 3ou must be sure to spend enough time on the rock during your training to insure that you will be climbing well when your peak arrives. deally, this should occur &ust as the weather begins to improve. The following table shows what gym and climbing time might look like using cyclic periodi%ation to plan a year of training at our home areaK6mith !ock. We will start at the end of the usual climbing season in early Govember.
1ate 9y%le 9lim0ing Time 5e# :ee( 11/1 to 11/15 Conditioning 1 to 2 11/16 to 2/1 oad 1 to 2 2/2 to 2/15 !ecovery 1 to 2 2/16 to 3/15 "ea# 1 to 2 3/16 to 4/1 "ea# 4 to 5 4/2 to 6/1 $ff 4 to 6 6/2 to 6/3% Condition 1 to 3 7/1 to 7/31 oad 1 to 3 &/1 to &/15 !ecovery 1 to 3 &/16 to '/15 "ea# 2 to 4 '/16 to 1%/31 $ff 4 to 6 ()ese are only general guidelines* ()e specific variables are up to you* +or e,ample- )ow will you alter your late pea# cycle training to accommodate serious redpoint attempts. /ow muc) climbing do you want to do over t)e entire year. ()is adapting of cyclic periodi0ation to fit your own needs results in a training sc)edule you1ll be muc) )appier wit)* 2$$3 4C5!

&

Campus -oard Training

"istor!
The late Wolfgang Dullich installed the first "campus" board at a gym called The 7ampus 7enter .hence the name/ in Gurnberg in BHJJ. #is intent was to train specifically for his pro&ect, 0ction @irecte, a route that required extreme finger power. 5sing the board, he increased his one$fingered dynamics to previously unknown levels, culminating in his success on 0ction @irecte in BHHB, a route generally considered <.B9d and which has since been repeated only once. The point of mentioning this is not that Dullich-s route may still be one of the hardest in the world, but rather that it was far harder than anything else Dullich had done, and he had to work like a maniac to achieve it. For a climber who was enormously fit, but not as naturally gifted as many around, that-s an important fact. We have the benefit of learning from his experience. Dullich dedicated much of his life to redpointing, speciali%ing in power endurance. #e eventually reali%ed that no matter how much stamina he had, when the going got tough, he was always going to fall short on the hardest individual moves. Dullich designed his "campus" board to isolate his weakness and break through his redpoint plateau. 8erry (offat, perhaps the world-s most successful climber at that time, worked out with him, " trained on Lthe 7ampus boardM stacks that winter and got dead strong.... went out and climbed JbN L<.B9aM straight away... was doing them in a couple of tries...". (offat stressed the importance of training strength and power, even in a case where falling off at the top might point to a lack of stamina. The physiologists can explain this with technical details about muscle contraction and blood supply, but (offat said it best, " f the hard moves at the bottom of a route start to feel easy, you-re going to be less pumped by the time you reach the top."

Principles
The principal reasons for "campusing" are to train upper$body power and muscle fiber recruitment. To understand what we are talking about, let us make a few distinctions. While strength is the ability to maintain muscle contraction against a maximum load, power is the ability to generate a maximal contraction rapidly. 6trength, then, is more of a static force, while power is dynamic. 0 campus board is an excellent tool for training strength, but its greatest asset by far is its ability to train power. f a hold on a climb cannot be reached under static strength, you need to move towards it explosively and that is where power comes in. We define recruitment as the ability to fire as many of the fibers in a given muscle as possible at once. 3ou need to increase your recruitment, not &ust for initiating a dynamic move, but also for "sticking" the target hold. While catching the target depends on timing and coordination, if you cannot contract enough muscle fibers rapidly enough, you will not be able to hang on to it. !ecruitment, then, especially forearm recruitment, is the key to sticking hard deadpoints, and "campusing" is the best way we know of to improve it. n the normal course of campus board training, you will also reali%e huge gains in dynamic technique1 timing, coordination, confidence, etc., as well as static strength. "7ampusing" will improve all aspects of your climbing. #ow much you should emphasi%e campus board training depends on your goals. Those wanting to improve their on$sight climbing should use it sparingly and concentrate on doing more climbing mileage, while those interested in succeeding on hard redpoints or boulder problems should use it as a primary training method. The board should be used in con&unction with other forms of training, for spells of 9 to J weeks, not continuously throughout the year. Dradually increase usage, from once a week to as much as C or E times a
'

week, and then taper back down, as you re$emphasi%e other forms of training. 0s top climbers know, power takes a long time to gain, but once you have it, you retain it for much longer than endurance.

Fresher Is -etter
When campusing, the general approach is different than when training for endurance. On the campus board, the idea is to do the hardest exercises that you can, in perfect style. 3ou should only train on a campus board after a rest day or when you are completely recovered from your last climbing or training session. 0dditionally, you must rest after every exercise within your campus routine long enough to recover completely. Three to five minutes is the norm, but you can rest as much as B> minutes if necessary. ,ower can only be trained on a totally fresh muscle.

"o. +uch Is Too +uch/

3ou are determined to see an improvement, so you want to keep at it for hours, but you are playing with fire. On a campus board, more work does not equal more gain+ it equals in&ury. Gever train to exhaustion on a campus board. @o the hardest moves you can in good style and come back two or three days later. 4e patient and remember1 so long as you do not get in&ured, you will get stronger. 0s a rule, it is okay to do one to four sets of any given exercise. 0s long as you are improving or maintaining from one set to the next, it is okay to continue with that exercise. 0s soon as you are weaker on one set than the last, it is time to move on to another exercise or stop for the day. 6everal exercises are described below+ you cannot train all of them in the same session. 7hoose a couple of exercises each time and concentrate on those. 6top your session and begin your warm down when your muscles have lost their "snap".

)est
!esting is perhaps the best thing about campusing because you get to do more of it than with other types of training. !est, rest and rest some more. 0lthough well$conditioned campus addicts may rest for only about two full days after every session, if you push yourself hard, take three or four days off. @o not expect quick results. f you feel like you are resting too long, not doing quite enough, that is good+ that is how you should feel.

Warm Up0 Warm %o.n

t is critical to warm up thoroughly+ much more so than with other forms of training. 3ou can start by climbing, bouldering or doing easy pull$ups and dead hangs, along with gentle stretching. (ake the first fifteen minutes ridiculously easy and gradually increase the intensity until you are at full power. !everse this process at the end of your session to prevent in&ury and speed up recovery. The warm down should be even easier than the warm up. t should feel as if your doing almost nothing. The idea is &ust to keep the blood flowing for B< or C> minutes after the high intensity part of your workout. 0 typical session might involve up to an hour of pull$ups, stretches and climbs up and down the board on the larger holds, with all of the high$intensity exercises done in the next C> to E> minutes, followed by B< to C> minutes of warm down.

Stretching
6tretching is simply insurance against in&ury. 6tretch regularly and you will wonder why you bother, but do not stretch and one day you will suffer. t is a good idea to stretch between sets and critical to stretch after the session, but be careful about stretching before your workout. Gever stretch a cold muscle.

"o. To 1rasp The 1rips

3ou want to use an open$handed grip as much as possible. (ost climbers are weaker open$handed than crimped, so you may find this hard at first, but you will get used to it. Training open$handed will increase your crimp strength .but not vice$versa/, and it is essential for holding pockets, slopers and certain edges, as well as making moves at maximum stretch, and catching dynos. (ost importantly, however, using an
1%

open hand lowers the potential for in&ury. 0s you adapt to campus training, you can incorporate a little crimp training to increase your maximum edge holding power, but keep it to a minimum.

What2s The Point/

The deadpoint is an instant in time, at the apex of any dynamic move, when you are neither rising nor falling. n all dynamic moves, large dynos or short snatches, the goal is to be in perfect position to grasp the target hold during the deadpoint. 0s you perfect this technique, the deadpoint will begin to feel like an instant of weightlessness. 0s you continue to improve your timing and coordination, the deadpoint will seem to get longer and longer. "7ampusing" is one of the best ways to improve your all around "deadpointing" skill. 4ecause you train movement between holds at varying distances, you learn how to generate the precise force and timing required to catch holds accurately and consistently. t cannot be over$stressed how fundamental dynamic moves are to good climbing technique. 0 well$executed dyno is often more efficient than a static move, even when it-s not strictly necessary.

Alternate Your (eading "and

3ou should do most sequences as pairs, first leading with one hand, then with the other. This avoids over$ training your strong side and keeps you balanced.

+aking It #asier
f you find some of the moves or exercises suggested here too difficult to start out on, put your feet on a chair or on the wall behind the board, to take off as much weight as necessary. 4e sure to have ample padding under your board, as landing on your back is a distinct possibility.

#$ercises
Po.er Thro.s
This fundamental exercise trains forearm recruitment, upper$body power and deadpoint accuracy through explosive upward moves between rungs at various levels. *ach sequence involves two moves plus matching at a hold. Gumber the rungs B, C, E on up, starting with the lowest. With your feet hanging free and both hands on the lowest convenient rung, launch for another rung with one hand, then reach for an even higher rung with the other, match, and you-re through. For example, match and hang on rung B. Throw with your right hand to rung 9, then pull through to rung : with your left. (atch on rung : and drop. Try to complete the same exercise by using every possible sequence of holds between the lower and upper chosen rungs, for example1 B$C$:, B$E$:, B$9$:, B$<$:. @ifferent push$pull forces, as well as different timing, are required with hands at different levels and although the moves in the middle range will feel easy, those at the extremes will not. 0lso, try going all$out for the maximum total distance, say B$9$J or B$ <$H. O !emember to lead with alternate hands.

%oubles

Pl!ometrics

(oving both hands at the same time is a great way to improve overall coordination. t also builds recruitment and confidence. 4egin by doing the easiest moves to feel this out. 8ust &ump from one rung to the next. *ventually, increase your range and stack a series of doubles together, climbing up the board and down again. 0n advanced version of this is the "two steps forward one step backward" routine1 B$E$C$9$E$<$9$: etc. 0 related exercise is plyometric campusing, which involves dropping both hands from a higher hold to a lower one .a reverse double dyno/, then &umping up again as fast as possible. The key is absorbing the downward motion and reversing the force into an upward motion as rapidly and smoothly as possible.
11

4e careful not to overdo it. This is a very advanced exercise, and the potential for in&ury is very high. Gever catch a hold with your elbows locked or extend all the way to a locked elbow on the negative contraction. Feel out your tolerance with some easy moves on large holds the first few times. ntroduce this exercise gradually, a little more each week for a few months. *ven when you have adapted to high intensity campus training, don-t do hard plyometric sessions more than once a week.

Static +oves

(ock3*ffs

0ny kind of campusing will improve your static strength as a spin$off, but you can train it specifically by doing small "power throws" slowly and as statically as possible. 0lso try "laddering" up and down the board a rung or two at a time, without dynoing. 6tatic lock$offs can be trained by putting your feet on the wall behind the board or on a chair, to take as much weight as necessary. 0s with all campus board exercises, make the moves hard enough to keep the total number of repetitions low .E$< on each arm/. The idea is to train maximum force, not endurance.

4ariations
When you feel like you-ve adapted to full hand training, you might want to try isolating fingers. Two fingers is the norm here, but don-t be afraid to mix it up. 0s with everything, build up slowly. 3ou might want to start by doing dead$hangs and pull$ups with various combinations of three, two, or one finger. 0gain, use the wall or a chair to take weight as necessary. t is important also to reali%e that different si%ed holds will train different muscles. f you-ve been focusing your training on small holds, forearm strength may no longer be your limiting factor. 3ou should also train longer moves on larger holds for a while, to increase the recruitment of your upper arms and torso. ncut or flat holds will slightly alter the muscles used and it-s worth experimenting with as many types as possible. The more you vary your training, the more effective it will be.

What Works For You/

While we are not sports physiologists, we do have a lot of hands$on experience and have learned from some of the best climbers in the world. #owever, exercises that work for us may not work for you and vice$versa. *xperiment with your own program and figure out what works best for you. 0lways remember to warm up thoroughly, start small, and take plenty of rest days.

%on2t Forget To 1o Climbing

Finally, of course, the whole point is to improve your climbing. "7ampusing" is a powerful tool for improvement, but any gain made on the board will require a period of adaptation on the rock for you to see its full value. 6o go climbing, have fun, and remember, all it takes to succeed is a modicum of talent and a lot of dedication. n the words of 6heffield-s master boulderer !ichie ,atterson1 "4e good, and if you can-t be good, be strong."

12

56 +inute Se,uences
4egin and complete the task or tasks within the one minute intervals. 5se the remaining time to rest. #ang a watch from the bottom of the board or mount a wall clock so that you can look straight at it while training.

#ntr! (evel7
1 & ' * . ) 8 7 10 1* se%ond hang; Jug 1 !ull-u!; Rounded Slope 10 se%ond hang; Medium Edge 1* se%ond hang w, ' sh#ugs; Pocket &0 se%ond hang w, & !ull-u!s; Large Edge 10 se%ond hang; Rounded Slope * (nee #aises; Pocket - !ull-u!s; Large Edge 10 se%ond hang; Medium Edge ' !ull-u!s; Jug Hang as long as you %an; Rounded Slope

Intermediate7
1 & ' * . ) 8 7 10 1* se%ond hang; ' !ull-u!s; Large Edge & !ull u!s; Rounded Slope &0 se%ond hang; Medium Edge &0 se%ond hang; Small Edge 1* se%ond 70< 0ent a#m hang; Pocket '0 se%ond hang; Rounded Slope &0 se%ond hang; Large Edge - !ull-u!s; Pocket ' o==set !ulls ea%h a#m >high a#m ?ug; low a#m small hold@; Jug/Small Edge 9hange hands and #e!eat 1* (nee #aises; Jug 1* se%ond hang; Medium Edge &* se%ond hang; Medium Edge 1* se%ond hang; Slope ' !ull-u!s; Jug Hang as long as you %an; Rounded Slope

13

Advanced7
1 & ' &0 se%onds st#aight a#m hang; Large Slope ' !ull-u!s; 4-Finger Flat Edge &0 se%onds slightly 0ent a#m hang; Large Slope; stay on &0 se%onds L-sit o# &0 hanging (nee %u#ls * !ull-u!s; 3-Finger Pocket; stay on &* se%onds st#aight a#m hang Ase every hold sta#ting at the 3-Finger Pocket and wo#(ing u!; staying on ea%h =o# * se%onds >donBt get o== to %hange holds@ "inish on Large Slope with a &0 se%ond hang &0 se%onds single a#m hang; Four-Finger Flat Edge swit%h hands and #e!eat * o==set !ull u!s; Large Slope >to! hand@ 3-Finger Pocket >0ottom hand@ %hange hands and #e!eat '0 se%onds 70 deg#ee 0ent a#m hang; Four-Finger ncut Edge 1* se%onds st#aight a#m hang; 3 Finger Pocket ' L-sit !ull-u!s >0end (nees i= you ha/e to@ * se%onds =#ont le/e# o# 1* se%onds st#aight a#m hang; Large Slope &0 se%onds st#aight a#m hang using only & =inge#s on 3 Finger Pocket! ' !owe# !ull-u!s >use weights o# hel!e# =o# #esistan%e; should ?ust 0e a0le to do ' !ulls@ ma8imum slightly 0ent a#m hang; Large Slope >go Ctil =ailu#e@ no #est ma8imum st#aight a#m hang - Large Slope

* . ) 8 7 10

14

Taping a Split Fingertip

With your finger slightly bent, starting halfway between the first two &oints, run a B)9" wide strip of tape vertically, around the tip, and back down the same distance on the other side of your finger. (ake sure this vertical strip covers your split.

0gain using a B)9" wide strip, starting at the fingertip and working toward the hand, wrap down to &ust above the first &oint, making sure to overlap the wraps by at least a third. 4ecause your fingertip tapers, youFll notice that itFs impossible to keep the slack out of the wraps all the way around. ThatFs okay, &ust make sure to keep the wraps smooth and evenly tensioned on the front side. 2et any slack build up on the fingernail side.

0nchor the tape &ob by making a figure J wrap around the &oint. @o this with your finger bent. The wrap will pass on either side of the knuckle on the back of your finger and cross on the inside of the &oint.

Follow the figure J with a single wrap around your finger.

Finish by pinching the slack out of the fingernail side of the wraps from step PC. 3our tape &ob will stretch out during the first few pitches so it should feel a little too tight at first, without cutting off your circulation.

15

Steep Techni,ues
tFs critical to place micro$si%ed TCUs and Po.er Cams near their full retraction. Only trust micro cams to hold a fall in hard, solid rock types.

The flexible wire body easily accommodates this hori%ontal placement. Go tie$off sling is necessary. The TCU body will naturally bend when loaded.

@ouble up protection pieces when climbing close to the ground or above a ledge. tFs also wise to double upon placements &ust before cruxes or at good stances where you can conserve strength. Gever trust your life to a single piece of gearA 0 choice, end$wise placement for this Curve "e$. Gotice how its end profile perfectly matches the curve of the stone. (ake sure to seat the piece well into its placement with a firm downward tug.

The new Q versatile PAS 8Personal Anchor S!stem $ a strong, ad&ustable system for connecting yourself to the anchor/ has been removed from the climberFs harness and is employed as an anchor$equali%ing sling.

Our straight$sided taper makes it easy to &udge placement quality. This Curve 9ut&s taper perfectly matches that of the crack, making it an ideal placement.

16