Weaving 2
Weaving 2
Weaving 2
CHICAGO ILLINOIS
U* o» A»
PART II
SPECIAL
COLL
TS
1490
.A5
1903
r)+- . TT
LIBRARY
^N^^^.%^.
1895
WEAVING
PART II
INSTRUCTION PA }^ ER
PREPARED HY
H. WlI,I.IAM NEI.SON
1905
Copyright 1905 by
American Schooi. of Cokkespondknck
handle, thus stopphig the loom. When there is fillmg across the
face of the grate the fork is prevented from passing through the
grate, being tipped up msteacl as shown at L, thus lifting the hook
out of the way of the hammer and preventing any action from tak-
ing place. Consequently as long as the filling is across the grate
the loom continues to run. There are two distinct forms in w^hich
the prongs of the fork may be bent as shown at
and N. Some- M
times an intermediate form is adopted and in extreme cases the
prongs extend further than at N but for ordinary work this would
;
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any kind of work. In setting the sto}) motion several facts must
be considered as governing its most efficient action. As strain
tends to weaken the filling the fork sliould be set so as not to
cause excessive strain. The less movement re([uired for the fork,
the better. Correct timing is absohitely essential.
'J1ie i)rongs of tlie fork should be long enough to reach below
WEAVING 153
it often rebounds just in time to catch and stop tlie loom. Wlien
setting the motion tlie prongs should project through the grate not
more than one-cpiarter of an inch, and as some forks are made
with short prongs and a long hook, care must be used to make
sure that the grate does not come in contact with the slide. If the
grate should strike the slide when the lay swings forward, the slide
will be pushed back and the loom st()i)ped without any extra jar to
which the loom may be subjected.
To time the slop motion it is cdiuiuon practice to j)usli tlie slide
154 WEAVING
as far forward as it will go and set the fork and cam to this posi-
tion. Ihit occasionally the slide slips back from its position when
the pressure is removed, reducing the distance which the fork
projects through the grate with the result that occasionally the loom
will stop, and the fixer having set the motion will naturally think
something else the cause of the trouble. With the fork fixed hi
its correct position, swing forward the lay,
and as it is just leaving
the front center set the cam to move the elbow lever with the catch
of the lever just passing the fork. If at this time the hook of the
fork barely clears the hammer, the timing will almost invariably
be correct when the loom is running.
There are different shapes of cams used, but an eccentric cam
gives the best results. By its use the lever acquires even motion
where other shapes cause sudden and uneven motion.
WEAVING 155
156 WEAVING
though the motion and the cloth produced has defects in the
acts,
form of thick places caused by the filling being beaten in too closely
at the point where the shuttle comes to rest. The diagram at Fig.
104 shows the various positions. At A the position in weaving
B, when the loom has banged off and the shuttle is pressed forward
until the protection acts ; C, when tlie space allowed is insufficient
into an oblong slot cut in the wood front. Daggers vary in length
for this form of device also, being from 4" to 4|" long on a nar-
row loom, and correspondingly longer for broader looms because of
the longer sweep of the lay. They are also made longer for narrow
looms intended for very heavy weaving.
This form of motion is set similarly to the frog motion. To
draw the lay forward until the dagger is well into
set the fuigers,
the hollow of the receiver and fix one finger. Then insert a
piece of cardboard about gV" thick between the finger and the
bmder, and fix the other finger in contact with the other binder.
WEAVING 157
When the second liiio-cr is l)tMiiL>- di'ivi'ii on, llic rod has a tendency
t(»s[)i'in^' a little and it is to allow for this tliat the i)aper is inserted.
strikes eitlier ntnirer tlie to[) or bottom the point of the dagger and
the edges of the receiver soon wear ont, and the iirst intimation of
this is a smash in the warp, especially if the dagger has been strik-
ing against the bottom of the receiver. When the dagger is set to
strike higli n[) on the receiver it requires a greater amount of
movement to keep it clear from the receiver when the loom is run-
ning. means that the binder nnist be set closer into the box,
'I'his
A A
— r-i I F F I ry^
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an even number of picks of any color may be woven into the cloth,
because the shuttle having been picked across from the multiple
box to the single box, must be returned to the multiple box before
any cliange may be made.. This type of loom, which is designated
as a 2 by 1, 4 by 1, or 6 by 1 box loom, will be explained first.
WEAVING 159
ble care, or the back of the shuttles will soon become worn and
s})lintered. Clean the boxes thoroughly, wiping away all grease
from the inside of the boxes, particularly as its presence would
cause false running of the shuttles. Smooth off all sharp edges
such as are found on the inside edge of the back slot and the edges
of the erroove in the binder. Set all the binders so that each
shuttle will be gripped at similar points ; buiding the shuttle at or
slightlybehind the center for reasons referred to in a previ<nis
chapter on Binders. Do not allow all of the flat end of the binder
to come in contact with the box, or the become cut,
filling will
drops in between the binder and the front of the box, and wlien the
binder comes in contact with the front of the box the filling is cut,
while if the binder touched only at the extreme end there is no
danger of this happening. After the binders are bent to fit the
shuttle, the extreme end of the binder should not be hi contact
with the outside pin, but wherever possible a space of at least one-
(piarter of an inch should be allowed for change. With a new set
of boxes the binders must be tigliter than is necessary with an old
set,due to a certain amount of grease which it is impossible to
remove, and the shuttles as well are inclined to Ije oily.
Set the lifting rod thoroughly by means of the lock-nut undei-
neath the boxes. Carelessness' in regard to this is a source of
trouble as the boxes become loose, and during the })icking of the
WEAVING 161
shuttle the front of the l)ox (U'scends, causiiin' the slinttle to strike
the race-plates with harinlul effect. A h)ose lock-nut is also a
rouuuon cause of the boxes binding in the slides.
The above directions apply to the fitting and lixiug of boxes
regardless of tlu' motion employed to actuate them. IJefore de-
scribing the setting of the boxes,due consideration nuist be given
the box motion. The box motion used on the two-harness gingham
loom consists of two parts, the Upper and the Lower, the latter of
which will be explained first because it is connected directly to the
boxes.
bo
l,is fixed on the picking cam shaft and geared into 2, each having
27 teetli. Compounded with % is a 22-tooth gear and a segment
gear 8, which has 15 teeth. The 22-tooth gear is the first
of a train of four gears of the same number of teeth, which transmit
WEAVING 163
vibrator gear.
The vibrator gears, of A\'liich there ai'c two, arc mounted on
studs iixed to the vibrator leve s D, and these in turn are sup-
[)ortedatone end by a stud attached to tlic h)om side, the other end
beuig connected by means of the connectmg rods E, to the small
levers which press on the filling cham bars. A vibrator or connect-
ing bar, F, is fixed by means of a stud to each vibrator gear, both
vibrators also being attached to the box levers, which unpart the
rise and fall to the boxes. One of these levers is a compound
lever, G, which will raise or lower two boxes, and the other is a
smgle lever, H, which will raise or lower one box. The pieces, K,
and, K', act as one solid lever durmg the ordmary working of the
loom, and the two box levers, G and H are attached to K and K'
at points M and N respectively. The box liftmg rod is attached
to the outer end of K', beuig adjusted by means of the adjustuig
nuts at P. Leverage is mcreased or dmiinished at O, mcreased by
lowermg the connection and dunmished by raismg the connection.
A cam, T, which is compounded Avith segment gear, 3,
actuates the lock-knife, R. This knife engages with the ends of
the vibrator levers, keeping them in position during the tune the
segment gears revolve. If they Avere not so lield they would tend
to spring out of contact with the shells, forcing the lock-knife out
of connection with the vibrator levers during; the chano-msr of the
box chain, and allowing the bars to be raised or lowered. To time
the lock-knife, set the finger, S, on the center of the highest part
of the cam, when the craidc sliaft is between the bottom and front
centers, uieluied to the front center, with the shuttle m the single
l)OX.
plate, and some device were not provided to free the boxes,
if
so that the boxes may be raised freely, but not loosely, as the latter
is detrhnental to good work. Set the boxes ))y means of tlie ad-
justmg nuts at P, so that the bottom of the top box at the entrance
is level with the race-plate. Then raise tlie second box by means
of the box motitni, and level tlie bottom with the race-plate by
changing the connection of the single lever at O ; raising the con-
nection to lower the box or lowering the connection to raise the
box. Next raise and adjust the third box similarly to the second.
The fourth box should be all right after the former adjustments,
and if not, it is an indication that the boxes are not true. This is
with the reed, or by having the back end of the picker spindle for-
ward, out of line witli the back of the box. The parts are some-
times fitted in this man-
ner in thi' machine slioj),
yarn. Occasionally the shuttle being back too far will catcli, and
preventing the boxt-s from sliding freely, cause a smash. For a
buffer or check to the }iicker on the iimer end of the picker-
S/Wr,'
:
166 WEAVING
lifting rods, which in turn lifts the vil)rator bar and vibrator gear,
which is mounted on the bar. This brings the vibrator gear into
position so that the first tooth of the segment gear enters the
space in the vibrator gear, which is then rotated one-half turn,
drawing with it the vibrator lever and consequently raising the
box lever. The vibrator gear now being turned half round the
large space, is on top, thus allowing the top segment gear to revolve
freely. This position will be maintained until a blank bar m the
chain conies under the small lever, thus through the connections
allowing the gear to drop into contact with the bottom segment
gear, which, rotating in the opposite direction to the top one, re-
turns the vil)rator gear and the boxes to their first positions.
Timing the Box Motion. Set the box motion so that wlien
the boxes are changing Tip or down, the bottom of the box will be
a])out one-eighth of an inch above or below the race-plate, Avhen
the dagger is with the re(;eiver. Or, have the first tooth
in contact
of the segment in contact with the vibrator gear when the crank
shaft is just behind the bottom center, coming for\A^ard.
Upper Box Motion. The upper box motion consists mainly
of two barrels or cylinders, with the necessary driving mechanism,
whicli carry the box or filling pattern chain and the multiplying
chain. A detail sketch of this motion is given at Fig. 110,
lettered for reference as follows
A. Box cham ratchet, which is fixed to the filling chain
barrel.
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li. Siiiiill lil'liiit;' Icvrr wliicli ri'sls on llu! box (;liain. There
are two ol these, one for tlie sing'k; k-vei' and oni; for the
eonipouniK
C. (
'oinieetini;" rod which eonnt'cts lever, li, with the vil)rat()r
H G
iiig rod, A, (Fig. Ill) is attached to the other. At the upper end
of this connecting rod, A, is attached this disconnecting device in
the form of a sh)tted lever, B, with a semi-circuhir recess in wliich
a stud, L), is held during the operation of tlie motion, this stud
being fixed at the end of the elbow lever. Ordinarily the discon-
nector iits over tlie stud, and as the connecting rod moves up and
down the lower part of the elbow lever moves with it, thus causing
the upper part to vibrate between the chain barrels actuating the
pawls which are mounted on its upper end. A chain or cord, F,
connects the filling fork slide to the back of the slotted lever, and
consequently when the filling runs out or becomes broken, the
lever is drawn back against the pressure of spring finger, E, which
ordinarily holds it in position, in this way breaking the connection.
Though the rod continues to act it is so held that the stud remains
in the slot, not being allowed to engage in the recess and conse-
quently the elbow lever is not actuated. This action of the
discoiniector prevents the occurrence of mispicks l)y sto})[)iiig tlie
turning of the box chain. The clamp, M, holds the elbow lever in
a fixed position when the rod is disconnected.
Timing the Cam. When the crank shaft is on tlic front
center Avith the shuttle in the single box, set the cam so that it
will commence to draw down the rod, and the })awl will commence
to turn the box chain.
Chain Building. Risers are small iron rollei'S which are
placed on the chain bars to pass under and raise the small lifting
levers which through the connecting rods actuate the box motion
and thus raise the boxes. A riser is always a starter.
Sinkers are small iron tubes wliich are placed on the chain
bars to keep the risers in position, also being used where risers are
not required, i. e., when the motion is not to be changed or is to
be returned to its regular position.
When there are but two shuttle boxes to be controlled by the
motion, one space only is required for a riser or sinker on the
chain. Four boxes require two spaces, six boxes require three
spaces and when a multiplier is used at least one space more must
be allowed. In the consideration of chain building it is as well to
start the subject with buildi'ng the box chain alone, leaving the
multiplier until later, and the four-box motion just described is a
WEAVING 1G9
second a riser under the suigle lever second to first, a blank bar,
;
fourth to third, a riser under the compound. The boxes are in the
regular or normal position when the bottom of the top box is even
with the race-plate, and a blank bar, i.e., a bar containmg sinkers
only, is necessary to retain this position, but risers must be used to
cause a (-hange. When [lossihle to avoid it. nexcr build a chain so
:
170 WEAVING
loosely spun filling is being used in one shuttle, run that shuttle in
the top box to prevent the fibres of the loose filling fron; clinguig
to the other filling and causing a bad selvedge.
Example : Suppose a chain is required to weave the following
colors, 4 red, 4 white, 4 red, 4 white, 2 black, 2 green, 2 black, 4
white, 4 red, 4 white, making 34 picks in the pattern. Each bar
in the chain has the value of two })icks because the shuttle passes
from the nuilti[)le box to the single box and back again, before a
change can be made, and for 34 picks 17 bars are required. Place
the red in the top box, the wliite in the second box, tlie black in
the third hox, the green in the fourtli box. Then the chain would
be l)uilt according to the following directions
4 picks of red will require two blank bars or sinkers.
4 " " white " " a riser under the single lever, and a sinker
under the comjjound lever, on two bars.
4 " " red " " two blank bars.
4 " " white " " a riser under the single lever, and a sinker
under the comjjound lever, on two bars.
2 " " black " " one bar with a riser under the compound
lever, and a sinker under the single lever.
2 " " green " " one bar with a riser under both single and
compound levers.
2 " " black " '' one bar with a riser under the compound
lever, and a sinker under the single lever.
4 " " white " " a riser under the single lever and a sinker
under the compound lever, on two bars.
4 " " red " " two blank bars.
4 " " white " " a riser under the single lever and a sinker
under the compound lever, on two bars.
34
sinker. Any chain where a multiplier is not used, may be laid out
in a similar manner by increasing or decreasing the number of bars
as required, using one bar for each two picks.
cheek patterns are to be woven, Inr liowever large tlie ])atteni is,
172 WEAVING
of picks smaller than its value, hence the reason for the statement
quired for the white, and one each, carrying multiplying risers, for
the black and red, making 4 bars for the box chain, which together
with the 10 bars requii'cd for the multi[)lier would make a total of
only 14 bars.
As a further example, suppose the pattern is required to be
composed of 20 pink, 20 white, 20 puik, 10 white, 2 cord pink, 10
white, 20 pink, 20 white. Working out the chains for this pat-
1
•
1
5
1
5
1
13 bars 16 bars
For tliis pattern also the 10-pick multiplier would require the
shorter chain, 13 bars being required for the box chain with the 10-
pick multiplier, and 10 bars being required with the 20-pick nnd-
tiplier. If the length of the multiplier chain is also taken into
account, the difference becomes still more favorable to the 10-pick
multiplier, as 13box chain plus 10 multiplier 23 bars total re- =
quired, using a 10-pick multiplier; and 16-box chain plus 20 mul-
tij)lier = 30 bars total required using a 20-pick nuiltiplier.
The length of the multiplier cliain, however, sliould not receive too
niucli consideration as in building a multiplier chain it is only
necessary to place a single riser on one bar as a changer.
WEAVING 173
Start the chains with the riser in tlie multiplier chain on the
top, so that the front end of the shield is clear from the teeth of
the l)()x chain ratchet. Tliis allows the pawl to turn the box
chain, and if the first bar carries a multiplying riser it will cause
the front end of the shield to clear the multiplier ratchet, which is
WEAVING 175
riser on the multiplier wliicli ai;aiii .starts the box chain. If both
ehams were so set tiiat a siiil<er came at the top of each, neither
one would be turned and only oni' color of filling would be woven
into the cloth.
and worn studs in the protection
AX'orn vibi'ator gear studs
lever are the most frecpient causes of trouble in this form of box
motion. When the latter becomes worn or the spring is too weak,
the lever slips and the boxes are not lifted high enough. If the
gear stud is worn there is a tendency for the gear to become
sprung or the first tooth to break. The first two or three teeth
m the gear and segment become worn and allow them to spring
out of mesh. Incorrect timing of the lock-knife will cause skips,
and incorrect timing of the chain barrel will cause broken risers
and bent chains. Care must be taken in timing the boxes and
fitting the swells, as previously explained. Sometimes when a
loom bangs off with tlie sliuttle partly in the shed, a smash results,
due to the boxes being set early so that the protection finger is in
contact with the edge of the swell, preventing the protection from
working. A protection finger, worn so that the flat part rests
agamst the other binder, will occasionally cause a smash in a
similar way. If there is insufficient movement given to the
dagger, owing to faulty fixing of the binder by bending out the
end instead of shaping it properly, smaslies often occur, and in
addition the inner part of the binder will cut the filling by pressing
against the box frame.
To Prevent Filling from Drawing, first examine the filling,
the protection spring on the box rod, believmg that the sprmg is
only for that purpose, which of course is not the case. Its pur-
on, otherwise the chain travels more quickly than the boxes.
Heavy lifting of the harnesses often influences the boxes, the
heavy lift causing extra vibration to the upper motion.
finger enters the « indentation the slide drops away, allowing the
pawl, H, to engage with the ratchet and turn the filling chaui.
There is also a lever, E, pivoted on the same stud which carries
the disc, one end of which extends over the chain at F, and the
other extends directly under the end of the pawl, G, which
o})erates the nndtiplier ratchet. When a nniltiplying riser comes
u[) on tlie box i;hain it raises the lower end of the lever, E, and
consequently lowers the upper end, allowing the pawl, G, to engage
with the ratchet, A, thus turning the disc until the finger again
enters an indentation. Then the slide, I), drops, allowing the
WEAVING 177
pawl, II, to eiiL;'iio'i' willi llic lilliiii;- cliain ratchet which continues
to turn until another nuiltiplying riser comes up on the chain.
To change the value of the multiplier a ratchet of a different
number of teeth is substituted. Each tooth has the vahie of two
picks, but owiuL!,' to the disc having two indentations the value of
the multiplier is half the number of teeth in the ratchet. The value
of a multiplier may readily be doubled by attaching a piece of tin
to the disc so as to coverup one indentation, when its value will
become double the whole number of teeth. The disc nuiltiplier is
an exceptionally good mechanism as it is simple, positive in action,
and has no links to get out of order, thereby requiring very little
fixing.
The up[)er box motion is operated through a (loul)le cam. A,
(Fig. 110) fixed on the pick cam shaft, one part of which actu-
ates, through the connections, tlie oscillating lever on which are
mounted the driving pawls. A disconnector, which })revents the
di'iving rodfrom working when the filling breaks, is actuated by
the smaller part of the cam, which also assists in drawing back the
motion after a disconnection has taken place. The dwell of
tlie laro-er }»art of the cam is (Hie-half a rcNolution of the pick cam
178 WEAVING
shaft, equal to a full revolution of the craiik shaft, and the smaller
cam has one-half the dwell of There are two separate
tlie larger.
ill operation. Wlicii llic lilliiiL;' breaks, the t'ork-slidu draws Ijaek
and lifts a finger wliicli is also in contact with the slotted bar, M,
thus raising the slotted bar so that as the slide is driven forward
the catch comes in contact with the bottom of the slot, with the
result that furtiier forward inoveinent is prevented, and the stvul
on the lever, D, at J, is forced out of connection with the spring
elani[i. This stud being out of connection, the connecthig
rod eaniiot be lifted sufficiently high to cause the pawl to turn the
ratchet gear on the filling chain ])arrel, and all operation of the box
motion ceases. While the elbow levers are disconnected, the
tension spring, K, is extended, and it will draw the upper elbow
lever back into position when .allowed to contract ; this is called
The pin gear, also termed the dog, is attached to the end (^f the
pick cam shaft, and as the shaft revolves, the pin. A, enters one of
the recesses in the segment gear, B, advancing the gear one space
for each revolution. There are ten spaces on the inside separated
by recesses, and on the outside the gear is divided into ten
segments of seven teeth each, with blank spaces between, so an
act the part of a broad looth, lueshiiig with the spaces in tlic large
segment gear.
One side of the slide is twice as long as the other, and conse-
quently when one projection is tilling a space on the gear, the
other is out of coiuiection ; the short end being the starter or
raiser, anil the long end the returner. Each slide is operated by a
small elbow lever, H, which is connix-ted by the connecting rod, J,
to one of the small levers in the upper motion under which the
risers in the chain pass. The flat portion of the projection, when
in the small segment gear, almost touches the teeth of tlie large
segment gear is turned, and the teeth of Ixitli lai'gc and small
segment gears are brouglit into mesh. There is but one box lever
refjuired with this motion, and this is shown at K, with the spring
clamp, L, gripping a stud fixed to its outer end. The lower end
of the clamp is attached to the bottom of the box lifting rod, N.
182 WEAVING
—-3a
back center with tlu' shuttle being picked from the single box.
;
184 WEAVING
When this box motion is fitted to some other make of loom, the
stud which supports the large segment gear is often below the
center of the pick cam shaft, in which case the timing must be
changed to suit requirements. Set the pin on the top center with
the crank shaft on the top center and the shuttle at the box end.
Set the head motion driving cams Avith the small cam on the
bottom center, when the crank shaft is just behind the bottom
center coming fcn-ward, and the shuttle is in the single box. As
the single box lever used with this motion nnist necessarily supply
l)()tli and compound leverage two fulcrums are recpiired, the
single
upper cam serving as one, and the stud u[)on wliich the inner end
of the box lever is pivoted, actuig as the other. This being the
case, it is impossible to change the position of the stud at either
end of the lever, without affecting the leverage at the other end.
For example, suppose the first box is set level with the race-plate,
but on raising the second box, it is found to be too low. jNIoving
out the stud, M, would ()])viate tliis, l)ut it is probable that the lift
would be excessive for the third box, and not only that, but the
hrstbox would be too low when returned to normal position.
Under such conditions, the only satisfactory method of setting this
motion is to work in between the two points of leverage. Startmg
lirst with the studs, M and R, near tlie centers of their respective slots,
with M inclined to the outer end, move out S and its connection
almost to the limit, and let it remain in this position, l)ecause the
sliglitest change at this pomt makes a great difference in the lift
diff'erent make of loom, but will never occur if the lifting rod and
connections are set to move in the same arc as tlie lay. When the
boxes do change position, great care must be used in setting them
the best method beinsr to 'have the boxes a trifle liigh when tlie
WEAVING 185
crank is on the top center, as this aUows for a slight drop as the
lay swings back.
Tiie greatest cause of trouble on this motion is the loosening
of the small segment gear, and this will seldom occur if due care is
used in tittuig the gear on the shaft, and in iixing the motion after-
months. If the small gear should become loose, care must be used
in replacmg the worn pin, for with a small shaft sprung, the condi-
tion is worse than with a loose gear, due to the bindmg m the
bearings, A\"hich is difficult to remedy.
TEMPLES.
Temples are for the purpose of keeping the cloth stretched as
near as possible to the reed width during the weaving process.
As much care sY '^uld be used in setting the temples as is used in
setting the pick-motion, because imless the cloth is kept approxi-
mately to the width of the warp in the reed the edges will not
weave as they should. A very slight twist on the temple or a
little too mucli distance from the fell of the cloth is often the
WEAVING 187
C c7 C <^ C7
^ '^ <f <J </ a
V^r-^—^jT^^h^r-^—^r-^
Fig. 121. Burr.
divided into several varieties. The burrs are made of brass, steel
and wood, the latter being the most common, and they are fitted
with teeth or pins, set spirally around the roller, varying in numl)er
and height of setting. Singly the burrs are fi'om 1] inches to 2.',
inches long, but often two or three of the smaller ones are used
together, and they vary in diameter from .] inch to \\ inch, some
ofthem bemg cylindrical and others tapered. Figs. 121, 122 and
123 show three different burrs to be used for cloth, ranguig from
fine to moderately heavy cotton or silk cloth. Fig. 124 shoMs a
left-hand temple fitted to the breast beam. It is a spring temple
and one of the best ])ossible for general A\'ork. A hinge temple is
shown at Fig. 12-"). The l)urrs and pods or ti'ouglis in which they
work are shnilar to those in Fig. 124, the difference being in the
position in wdiich they are fixed. Spring temples are probably the
IKS WEAVING
128 and 129 show four different varieties of inclined ring temples.
Fig. 12(') is a eombhied rightdiand temple. Fig. 127 shows roll
cotton goods and light weight worsteds. Figs. 128 and 129 show
temples suitable for heavy woolens and worsteds. King temples
are made from two to fifteen rings, tlie number being determined
WEAVING 189
for the same purpose, but })aper or thin cloth is preferable. Using
burrs which are too coarse is often the cause of temple marks on
fine goods,and finer burrs must l)e used to remedy any such fault.
lUunted or bent pins and incorrect setting are also frequent causes
of temple marks. The face of the temple should be set parallel to
the fell of tlie cloth at a distance of from -^^.- inch to | inch accord-
ing to circumstances. A snuill anunnit of action to the temple
always lias a beneficial effect, especially when it is set close to the
fell of the cloth, because it reduces the stram on the selvedge
WEAVING 191
threads, when the lay beats up. By attaching to the hiy sole a
pieee of leather in such a
position that it Avill strike
against the lieel of the temple
when the lay swmgs forward,
a sufficient amount of motion
is given for ordinary require-
ments.
It is common practice on
medium and light weight
goods to use l)urrs for both
temples in which the s})ikes
X
I
Fis- 131. Kiug Temple.
and should be set close to the fell of the cloth, inclined slightl}'
toward the race.
C-, to the dagger lever, the dagger being attaclied to the end
of this at right angles to it. G is a bracket fixed to the breast
dagger to drop far enough to strike against the upper end of the
receiver, H, and as the lay continues to swing forward, the receiver
being pressed down carries with it the knock -off finger, thus,
through the connections, stopping the loom. If there is a strand
of filling under the feelers, they are held up so that the dagger
cannot strike against the receiver, and the loom continues to run.
The protection slide, L, acts only on the first pick after each start-
up.
Inime<,liately as the loom stops, the flat spring, N, causes the
fuiger, M, to force the slide sufficiently high to protect the receiver
from the dagger. AVlien the power is applied by drawing forward
the sliipper handle, the spring, N, is drawn away from the fuiger,
releasing the pressure on the slide, but the latter remains in place
WEAVING 195
nnlil tlic dajxirer strikes tlii' liook at L' and fdiccs tlic slide out of
the way, leaving the reeeiver in position to net. This proteetion
slide is necessary for tlie reason that often after the loom is
stopped, the lay drawn forward and then pushed back, wlien
is
the feelers pass under the lilling, and if no protection slide were
provided the dagger would strike the receiver thus stopping the
loom. When no i)rotection slide is iitted, it is necessary to phice
the tilling under the feeler wires in oi'der to prevent the dagger
from striking the reeeiver, thus occasioning a loss of time.
more quickly. On looms fitted with two sets of feelers the slide
must he set to raise the feelers as (quickly as possible, otherwise
the shuttle may strike and bend them. If this happens they are
held up by the war[) threads, and the loom will not be stopped
even if the fillhig is l)roken. Adjust the slide, F, and adjusting
rod, C, so that the feelers will be raised almost the
height of the
shed when the crank shaft is between the top and back centers
and the dagger is almost at the top of tlie slide. Set the feelers
196 WEAVING
in the base so that | mch to |- inch will remain on the filling when
the dagger passes the receiver and yet they shonld pass clear of
;
the ril) of the reed when in the lay sole, to prevent any possibility
of the feeler wires catching in case of the yarn dropping to the
bottom of the reed. With the lay drawn forward so that the
on the Ijottom center, the dagger should be at the bottom
(vraiik is
handle.
When the dagger point strikes the receiver, the lock-finger, I,
is i-aised up, thus releasing the lock lever, and allowing the pro-
jection on the brake-rod to force off the shipper handle. If there
is a pick of filling under the feelers when they descend, the dagger
is held out of contact with the receiver, and the loom contmues to
run. The shield, K, is controlled by the finger, L, and rod, M, the
outer end of the rod being in contact with the shipper handle.
WEAVING 197
AVlifii the loom is stoi)i)(Ml ilu; shield covers the receiver, prevent-
ing the dag-ovr from striking thereby allowing the loom to beit,
turned over by hand, but when the shijiper handle is drawn mto
place, the finger forces up the shield and leaves the receiver free to
be acted n[)on by the dagger, 'i'liis foi-m of stop motion is one
of the most instantaneou.s in action because, immediately as the
dagger strikes the receiver, the power is removed and the brake
applied.
Ill setting tliis motion have the (bigger j)()iiit in coiita(;t with
the receiver wlu'ii the ei'aiik shaft is on the bottom c(!nter. The
feelers are raised to tlu; highest point when the adjusting rod is
perpendicular, the crank shaft l)eing between the back and bottom
centers. To lessen the lift of the feelers move the adjusting rod
pivot farther back in the slot of the bracket, G', or adjust by chang-
ing the screw connection on the lower end of the rod." The former
method is tlie better.
When weavhig tender filling if the feelers rest so heavily on
it as to break it often, or cause it to kink in the cloth, a small
weight may be attached to the back end of the dagger lever at
point I)'. Or set the feelers so that they will not descend so low
into the feeler slot, changing also the timing of the motion to be
slightly early, i. c, to have the feelers leave the filling a little
to Warps.
Odd Points Pertaining Under this heading some
of the minor problems Avhich come up in ruiuiing a loom will be
considered. A loom ought to ])e cleaned, oiled, and fixed every
time a warp is run out, and if a fixer could only realize how much
work a small amount of attention at this tinu; would save him, he
would soon make it a regular practice. It is when a loom is
empty that some little thing can be seen, Avhieh might cause end-
less trouble \\'lien the warp is in. How often a screw head slightly
above the race-plate cuts the warp yarn or chips the shuttle a
little ; (jr the race-plate is broken behind tlie feeler-slot, cutting tlie
making the warp weave badly. Unless the yarn is very poor, a
warp seldom weaves badly in a cam loom except in case of the
loom being out of order, for which the remedy is given elsewhere.
Sufficient attention is not given to the stretch of the yarn from the
whip-roll to the harnesses. A warp which otherwise would not
run, can often be run out by increasing the distance between the
whip-roll and the harnesses. Additional lease rods will often even
up warp even though a striped cloth is being woven
the yarn in a
from the same warp. Double cloths will usually weave better if a
lease rod is inserted between the two warps, especially if one cloth
is a more open weave than the other, as the take-up differs under
such conditions, and the rod should l)e inserted so that the slack
warp is underneath.
The use of a lease rod is also a remedy for rough looking
cloth caused by curly warp or filling yarn. Dimities often weave
better by the use of an extra lease rod, a wire rod being preferable.
A soft warp can be made to run better by laying across the warp a
long cloth bag filled with French chalk, or by laying a piece of
wax on the warp. The latter remedy is not to be recommended
for all cases, however, as any wax retained on the yarn proves
detrimental to further processes such as dyeing, etc. A stiffly
sized warp may also run better by above treatment, but a damp
cloth laid over it, or a pail of hot water placed under it so that the
steam will rise and soften the size, will give much better results.
Staggering the harnesses is the best possible treatment where a
large numl)er of harnesses or heavily sleyed warps are being used.
A plaid back can be woven much more easily by adjusting the
backing harnesses a trifle lower than the others.
It can readily be seen that if there are six or eight ends in
one dent, with the harnesses all level, and four or five of the liar-
nesses on which they are drawn are lifted at one time, those
threads will be crowded in the dent, but if the harnesses are
staggered the threads will l)e separated. If when weaving a plain
stripe there is a tendency for the threads to cling together, a,
CARE OF LOOMS.
it would be
Before- considering the general fixing of looms,
well to understand the following: A
loom that is kept in good
repair will cause very little trouble, and never serious faults.
Looms give warning of coming danger, and tlie careful fixer will
see to it that these warnmgs are heeded. A fixer who patches a
job, very often has serious results from his A loom
neglect.
banging off, or a shuttle jumping or rattling in the box, is a sure
sign that something is giving way; the maimer in which a sliuttle
is weavhig, indicates, to the careful thinking iixcr, the seat of the
trouble, and he knows full well if the warning is unheed(!d, that
probaljly a shuttle will fly out and hurt some one. If there are
any of the parts that cr)ntrol the boxes wearing, the shuttle will
200 WEAVING
over the end of the loom to the floor, or possibly drop two or three
feet from the loom, or the shuttle may jump up from the lay. Such
shuttles rarely, if ever, hurt any one, l)ut they are possible indica-
tions of a serious defect which, if not attended to as soon as
possible, will result in the shuttle flying a good many feet from
the loom. By noting distinctly where tlie shuttle has fallen,
and the distance it has gone, it is possil)le to locate the cause.
Tlie shuttle will not travel in the same direction if it meets any
obstruction in its passage across the lay, as it will if it has shot
clean from the box. A worn picker, picker-stick or loose spindle
will throw a shuttle more clearly than any other cause, and these
are the two causes that throw the shuttle with the full force of the
picking motion and by a picker springing the picker spindle
;
Avill iilso cause a loom to baiii;' off. A loose i^oekei-sliaft will cause
the loom to bau^" off and also eause it to be stop[)e(l through the
iilling" stop motion. Some of tlie points have also been explained
in the different chaptei's descriptive of the various parts and
motions. Many of the little troubles connnon to some fixers may
be avoided bv followino* the itleas reyardino- different methods of
fixint;" and the i-(nisons given for such. Special attention should
he given to the binders for they are probably llui most freipient
cause of trouble. Kvery fixer should have a straight edge, as it is
useful for many jmrposes, particulaily for levelling the boxes A\ith
the lay or reed.
The various points will be explained in detail in different
chapters.
Banging Off. This term is a[)plied to the action of the loom
when it is stopped by the dagger striking tlie receiver, owing to
the shuttle not beuig in place. Various causes are as follows:
Most of the items from 38 to .51 inclusive apply especially to
the ball and shoe-pick motion.
Banging off is the most common occurrence in the defective
rumung of a loom, and it is due mauily to changes in the atmo-
sphere although many fixers lose sight of this.
1. Supposing the room to be cold, it naturally acts on the
loom, particularly the boxes, so that the shuttle does not run as freely
as when it has become warm. The best method to follow is to wipe
the boxes and tlie shuttle with dry waste when in the majority of
cases the loom will run all right. It is possible that it may bang
off once again, but on starting up it will generally be found that
the use of a wrench is uiuiecessarv : and in case of such use chang-
ing back again is usually required, w hen the room becomes warm.
Occasionally it is well to apply a drop of oil to the binder, the
merest trifle being sufficient. If the loom is damp wipe the boxes
and shuttle thoroughly dry, a[)ply a little oil, as above, to the s\\('ll,
and start u}) again. Should it bang off" again rub the face of tlic!
shuttle with some fine sandpa[)er. It may be noticed that when
the box and shuttle are damp the front of the shuttle becomes
black from the dampness and friction with the swell. Above
points a|)ply oidy when nothing is broken oi' worn out, and if it
is found nccessai'V afterwards, to make sonic altci'ations no loss
202
WEAVING
and tlie result is cithi'r tlie loom bangs off or tlie shuttle is thrown
out.
5. iV worn plug in the picker-stand twists the picker-stick,
stick is too short, causing the straj) to become S(tft ^\ ilh a c(tnse-
quent loss of [:)Ower.
and cannftt drive the shuttle with suflicient s[teed t(t enter the
o[)[)osite l)ox, and the hjom Itangs (tff.
and as it does not fully enter the opposite box the loom bangs
off. While many fixers discredit this, they often replace the
picker.
11. When tlie collar, wldcli holds the picker on the picker-
stick becomes loose, the shuttle may either be thrown out or the
loom bang off. The reason for this is that the })icker sliding on
the stick, reduces the power and keeps the back of the shuttle
down, which, by causing it to press against the top of the shed on
entering it, retards the passage through. In many instances the
by the shuttle rising in the box as it nears the
collar is loosened
back end, and pushing the picker upwards. This may also occur
when the picker-stick is too far into the Ijox instead of being at
the back end.
12. One of two conditions is generally responsible for
away, tlie stick has too strong a pick and too long a range, which
may be remedied by letting out tlie lug-strap. Occasionally the
pick-shaft drops slightly and allows the back end of the cone to
I'cst on the cam, in whicli case a hard pick results. Raising it uj)
again will ease the pick. Wlien the pick is found to be all right,
the box [)ressure must be increased, and tins must be done with
WEAVING 205
For this the only lasting remedy is to either sink the screw into
the shall or use a hardened cup-})ointed screw which will bite the
shaft. A connnon occurrence in tightening up set screws, especi-
ally in pick-cams, is to twist off the lieads. Instead of tightening
to this extent, it is better to draw uj) until it tightens against the
shaft, then withdraw a little, tightening up solid after this, when
it will hold with as strong a grip as possible.
15. When the shed is too early it closes on tlie shuttle, and
when too late there is not suificient space for tlu; shuttle to enter,
in either case the shuttle being retarded so that it does not fully
enter the box. This condition is easily remedied, particularly so
when the cams are on an auxiliary shaft, when by simply dis-
engaging the carrier gear the cams can l)e set to the right time and
gear replaced. Set the cams to have the shed full open with the
crank on the top center.
IC), When the shed is too small the shuttle is retarded all
inch, owing to tlie fact that the harness straps have not been
equally attached. Frequently in remedying tliis defect the shed
is made uneven. Taking up one hole in the strap does not
always suffice, as they may not be equally spaced, and particular
attention should be given to having them equal. Harnesses
last longer when a little play is allowed in attachmg, but this
should not be enough to alter materially the size of the shed.
17. A loose rocker shaft allows the lay to spring up and
interfere with the throw of the shuttle, which is sometimes
thrown out by this means, as well as causing the loom to bang
off. It is only necessary to tighten tlie bearing to remedy this
defect.
18. In connection with an adjustable swell, the lock-nut
working loose allows the bolt to slip back, causing the savcU
to become loose. When the temper leaves the swell, it becomes
loose and the loom bangs off. The bolt which retains the
binder in its frame shows the effect very quickly on becoming
loose l)y ripping pieces out of tlie shuttle.
strikes agamst the top of the box and there is too little space for
it to enter. Either fault will cause the loom to bang off by pre-
venting the shuttle from entering the box, and will also splinter
the shuttles, making them so rough that they Avill constantly
break out the warp. When the boxes are not level with the
race-plate it is best to look for the cause, rather than immediately
alter the position of the lifting rod or chain connections. Some-
times only one box is out of position, and any alteration of the
lifting rod or chain would affect all the boxes, making the
trouble worse. If the collar on the lifting rod slips a trifle it
allows the bottom of the chain-bolt to drop, and the bracket and
the boxes are lifted too high. A chain pulley-stud becoming
worn allows the boxes to be too low. One or two links of the
liftincT chain being: worn will cause one or two boxes to be too
the boxes slightly higher when that link passes over the pulley.
Other causes of single boxes being out of position are : the lever
which lifts that special box having slipped, and the chain twisting
and riding on the edge of the pulley or dropping from the large
to the small pulley.
28. Yarn clinging in the shed hinders the shuttle from
passing through freely. It may be the result of poor sizing, in-
correct timing of the shed, or too small a shed, the remedies for
which are manifest.
29. In connection with fancy looms sometimes a harness
drops when the shuttle is passing through tlie shed, in this way
holding the slmttle and causing the loom to hang; oif. More will
be said of this later.
30. A
worn face on the friction driving [)ullcy causes the
loom to l)ang off, owing to a slackening of the power, with a
resultant soft pick. As the belt sometimes slips it is best to
determine just where the fault lies. Tliis may be tested as fol-
38. Shoes slipping Avill cause the loom to bang off because
of a soft pick, but if they are fixed according to instructions
given they will rarely work loose. Unless the shoes are worn,
tightening is sufficient to remedy the trouble.
39. Worn shoes have the same effect as loose ones, but tlie
squarely upon it, and the shaft will also re(;[uire repairing.
40. Lack of oil causes the pick-ball to bind. This will spoil
the ball and stud and the only satisfactory remedy is to replace it.
41. It is impossible to obtain a good picking action if the
pick shaft binds, and this is one of the causes of a loom requiring
more power when picking from one side than the other. To test
the shaft remove the sweep-stick and turn by hand, Avhen any
binding will become ap[)arent and the bearings can be set to
remedy.
42. When the pick-ball and stud become worn, the best
remedy is to replace them with new ones. Fit the stud in the
slot of the extensicm as snugly as possible, with the collar flat
asranist the castintr- Lack of attention to this small detail means
constant lixing ami tightening of the stud, which otherwise
would not be reiinired.
210 WEAVING
(([ually bad, as they cannot \)v drivrn straight, and often turn
over in crossing the hiy.
19. Worn wood puUey.
50. If the binder pin and hole is worn, there will l)e an
uneven pressure on the shuttle, depending upon how the shuttle
strikes the binder.
4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 1:;, U, lo, 10, 17, 19, 22, 24, 25, 20, 27,
Reed over and under faced, that is, in some way the reed has
beconu! bent so that it is forward from the level of the back of the
box. This causes the shuttle to strike against that part, be it ever
so little, and the nose of the shuttle is turned (uil fiom the reed.
The way to straighten this is to have a flat piece of iron licld
212 WEAVING
against the back of the reed, and straighten the end of the reed
with a flat-faced hammer, also assist the reed by softening the
pitch that is around the casing of the reed, and in this manner they
can often be returned to a straight position, but if the Avhole reed
is out of square, then it wouhl have to be trued up, and sometimes
this can be done by altering the lay cap. If the reed being over
faced does not throw the shuttle out, it has a tendency to spoil the
shuttleby splintering it at the back where it first comes in contact
with the reed, and this often breaks the yarn out, because when
the weaver is placing the sluittle in the box it is apt to be turned
a little causing tlie splintered portion to rub against the yarn. A
loose picker will cause the sliuttle to fly out, because the picker
slides on the stick to any position the shuttle forces it, and when
the stick is at the end of the stroke, instead of the shuttle being
slightly elevated at the back, it is down on the race-plate, and the
top of the hole of the picker strikes tlie tip of the shuttle, and the
nose of the shuttle is raised up, consequently it will usually fly out.
Another cause is tlie shed openuig too late and thei'e is not
sufficient space for tlie sliuttle to enter it, the result is either the
picker strikes the shuttle when the pick is at its quickest time, and
in this way the shuttle is often thrown out. The shed closing too
soon will also have the same effect as too early a shed.
When that portion of the picking-stick is worn comeswliich
in contact with the picker, it causes a jump to the picker and con-
sequently jumps the shuttle. It is best to round off the corners of
the worn place, or replace witli a new stick. Worn sliuttle means
a shuttle that is round on the back and bottom, such a shuttle
will not hug the reed, with the result that it often flies out. If
the bottom shed is too high off the race-plate, the shuttle is thrown
up as it leaves the box a similar result occurs from cause 59. A
;
will not pull dowm the harness, so that the yarn is up off the race-
plate. This causes the shuttle to run crooked. If the crank-arms
are loose, there is an uneven motion to tlie lay, which causes the
shuttle to fly out generally as the crank is passing over the top
center.
Uneven Cloth; meanuig shady cloth and cloth with thick and
thui places.
tally dropped on the beam head. There are some fixers who have
vised oil on the beam head, (.-lamimg that it allowed the rope to
slip more freely, but the very same fixers have been seen to take
great pains in wipmg off the oil under other circumstances. It
ing the beam on the floor, and as the yarn is drawn off, the uneven
turn of the beam causes unequal let-off of the yarn.
The take-up motion is often the cause of uneven cloth. The
the check-pawl, enables the inotion to take iij) two teeth. If the
ratchet gear does not swmg a little and
\\()ik pcil'cctly free, then one
straight, and that the gear which is in contact with the beam lu-ad
is not too deep in gear. This is one of the most common causes of
complaint, because the teeth around the beam head are not alwavs
as clean as they might be. Small chips of iron are on the uiner
edge of the teeth, and if the drivmg gear is too deep when the
beam has been turned to where the rough teeth are, the \\ar]) will
stud on which the rod is placed is worn, uneven cloth will be the
one is slightly longer than the other, the reed does not beat u[)
evenly; a loose reed gives the same result. If a beam flange is
broken, when the heavier side is passing down, it goes down more
quickly than when the broken side is passing down, especially is
this so when fancy cloths are being woven, and it is not uncom-
mon add a weight to the broken side to balance the beam.
to
When the bearing for the sand roller is worn, the roller jumps,
causing cloudy cloth. Loose perforated tin will sometimes over-
lap, causing a thin place in the cloth. Occasionally the guide
roller will come loose and turn, and if it has not been set straight,
uneven cloth will be the result. If the cloth under the friction
band is allowed to remain on too long, it becomes sticky, and
alloAvs the beam to let off in jumps. Occasionally when attaching
the friction, the knot in the cloth is allowed to remain under the
friction l)and and tiiis will cause very uneven let-ofl'. If the fric-
tion lever is allowed to rest on the band or beam head, it will pre-
vent the proper letting off of the warp.
Sometimes the Aveight will touch the floor, or the weiglit from
a top beam touches the lower beam. If the beam liead is crooked,
when it turns round it will touch the whip-roll. If there is too
nuich pull on the friction cloth roller the cloth will be strained,
and it will also occasionally cause two teetli to ])e taken up on the
ratchet gear. If the harnesses are not set level, shady dyed cloth
will almost certainly be the result, because the sheds being lower
on that side the cloth is a trifle thicker, the conseciuence is that
there is a difference in the absorption of the dye stuff. The cen-
ter harness connection on the Knowles Loom was designed to over-
come this. If one edore of the cloth is slack through the fault of
WEAVING 219
the teiii[)lf, sliady piece dyed clotli ^\•i^l result. Sometimes there
are distinct cracks in the cloth, and in nine cases out of every ten,
the}' are caused by slack yarn, especially is this so with cam work
of four or more harnesses. Notice the cloth that is woven and one
will see the defects occur almost regularly. Then watch the loom,
and the probable cause will be the yarn is slack on one certain har-
ness,and when the filling is beaten up the slack yarn forms in a
rub which prevents the close beating up of the fillmg, raismg that
harness up a little to tighten the yam.
Explanation of Fig. 135 on Page 216.
A. Worn link.
B. Worn treadle-pin,
C. Worn treadlo-{)lug.
D. Worn treadle-bowl.
E. Worn connecting rod of let-off motion.
EXAMINATION PAPER
WEAVING.
PART H.
Instruction to the Student. Place yuur name and full address at the
bead of the paper. Use auy cheap, light paper like the sample already sent
you, of a size about 7 by 9 inches. Study the Instruction Paper thoroughly
before attempting to answer the Examination, and then answer in ijour own
woi'ds.
liow ?
17. How would you set the picker m relation to the guide
plates ? Why ?
18. Give the timing of the center fillmg stop motion.
19. Describehow you would set the boxes level with the
race-plate, and how the leverage is adjusted on the Crompton box
motion.
20. Does it require more power to drive the shuttle when
the boxes are loose in the slides, than when they are fitted as they
ought to be ? If so, how ?
21. Describe the grasshopper motion. Crompton Loom.
22. If the loom was stopped by the filling stop motion with-
out the filling breaking, what would occur ? How ?
23. How should the picker spindle be set in relation to the
boxes? What is liable to occur from the wrong setting or a worn
spindle stud? How?
24. What is the value of the box protection motion ?
39. Suppose the i)icks of filling are being laid in the cloth
somewhat on an angle, what would you consider the cause ?
weave ? Why ?
:
226 WEAVING
After completing the work, add and sign the following statement:
I hereby certify that the above work is entirely my own.
(Signed)
bOUiHfoMf kh IHASSA( HuSE IIS UMVtRSIIV
p-f. 2~