Trims

Trims must be compatible with base fabric and where appropriate match with
the shade of the base fabric
Trims must conform to standards specified by Buyer with respect to colour,
quantity, quality, safety and utility
All trims including draw strings, piping, buttons, zippers must be checked for
colour fastness and shrinkage prior to production
Trimmings should have the ability to be attached in a secure manner to the
body fabric
Trims must be safe with respect to toxicity, colorants, coatings etc
Trims must not cause irritation or hurt the customer after adorning the garment
Dyes used on trims must not be carcinogenic
Fusing/Interlinings
nterlinings must be compatible with base fabric weight and fibber composition
nterlinings must conform to standards specified by buyer
The colour must be compatible with the base fabric especially as the fusible
could show through or influence base fabric shade
!usible should be selected based on type of construction"woven, non#woven,
knitted$, the resin and the process to be used"pressure and temperature
applied$
!usible after fusing must withstand laundering, cleaning and abrasion
!usible which causes a strike back"penetration of adhesive to other surfaces in
the interlining$ and strike through"penetration of adhesive to the outer fabric
surface$ %will be re&ected
nterlinings must be positioned to provide support and shape where required
Linings
'olour fastness and performance of lining to be compatible with base fabric
(inings must conform to standards specified by buyer
)here wadded linings are used polyester wadding is required of specified
weight and density
Dye should not be carcinogenic
Accessories
All accessories"hangers, tags, card boards, poly bags, pins, clips$ must be,
colour fast, and conform to other standards prescribed by buyer
Accessories must not damage*distort the garment directly or indirectly
Accessories must be uniform within a lot
Elastic
+ust have the specified width , sufficient strength and elasticity for garment
comfort
,lastics must maintain the properties throughout the life of the garment with due
allowances for wash and care
t must be free of additives that can adversely affect the base fabric, lining or
trimmings and must be odour free
,lastic shrinkage must be specified
Bindings
+ust be appropriate and compatible for base fabric
+ust be colour fast, have the specified strength and width, and the proper finish
+ust not cause puckers or twisting after attaching
+ust not have &oints along the length
Labels
+ust be colour fast and have a sound construction
The words*logos*instructions*pictures must be clearly printed*embroidered on
the label
(abels instructions must be clearly understood by the supplier and only then
manufactured
(abels should have the right margin for attaching*insertion
(abels should have no loose fibres or uneven edges
)henever loop labels are used the label should be inserted appropriately with
the allowance on the label pushed fully into the seam and not showing outside
)henever labels have to be secured on four sides the stitch lines have to be
even and label shape undistorted
-aw edges must be concealed within seams and labels positioned at a
consistent distance from a referral point e.g. +ain label positioned centrally at /
cm below the neckband
Threads attaching the labels must be neatly trimmed
The embroidered*printed matter on the label must not be concealed
Drawstrings/Cords
'ords once knotted should not open up
,nd toggles should not open up, should be colour fast, lead and toxic free and
should not distort on laundering
Pocketing
0ocketing colour must be appropriate for body fabric, unless specified and must
conform to standards specified by buyer
0ocketing fabric must be able to withstand very high stress and also be colour
fast
Buttons
+ust be dyed to match unless specified
+ust be colour fast
+ust be compatible with body fabric when secured
+ust be non toxic
Buttons should not have sharp edges
+aterial should not chip off when sub&ected to laundering, ironing or other
forces
Buttons should not melt when sub&ected to high temperatures
Buttons should not be affected by solvents
The holes should be symmetrical with respect to its centre
+etal buttons should have rust proof finish
Buttons must retain its properties throughout the life of the garment
Buttons must be able to withstand scratches
The buttons are spaced correctly for their size and for the location of their use
The buttons are reinforced according to the dictates of the fabric and location
The buttons are sewn on securely
The buttonholes are the correct type for the garment design and fabric
The buttons and buttonholes are correctly aligned
The buttons should be securely attached with no fraying or loose threads
The buttonholes fit the buttons without gaping open or allowing the buttons to
come through too easily
Rivets !tuds
These must be rust proof, colour fast and have a good finish
The sizes must be as specified
'ompatible washers should be supplied along with the rivets and studs
f there is an embossing or print it should be able to withstand the die force
applied
!asteners are the correct size for the closure requirement
!asteners are attached securely, whether mechanically or by hand
'oncealed application of fasteners are inconspicuous
!asteners used in visible applications are suitable for the apparel design and
fabric
"i##ers
1ippers should conform to the specified length and width
1ippers should be rust proof
t should have a good quality stopper*slider and teeth
t should have auto lock mechanism
The zip slider must be free from obstruction when functioning and not catch
base fabric in its movement
t should be colour fast and not wear out on frequent use
t should be compatible with base fabric
t should posses the ability to allow stitch formation and securable to the base
fabric
The top of the zip should have a top stop where necessary as the slider can
come off
The zipper teeth should have even edges to allow free movement of the slider
The zipper teeth and tape materials are suitable for the apparel design and
fabric
The zipper length is adequate for ease in wearing or using the item
The method of attachment is appropriate to the garment design
All visible stitching is neatly done
The zipper is securely inserted into the garment "1ippers in trousers should
come upto the waistband, in dresses should come upto the fabric$
1ipper teeth are concealed adequately by lapped applications
(apped applications are evenly done
1ipper should be attached neatly with the correct stitch margin taken and
without puckering
During construction sufficient clearance should be given to allow smooth
operation and to minimize likelihood of slider catching base fabric or lining
2n open ended zips bar tacking or securing to base is required
T$reads
Thread selected must be appropriate for the fabric in size, composition, strength
and shrinkage characteristics.
+anufacturers should discuss thread selection with suppliers and equipment
technicians whenever necessary.
Thread colour must match the base fabric "unless otherwise specified$ and be
colour fast.
2verlocking thread should match the base fabric where practicable.
Bartack and other threads should match the base fabric where practicable.
Thread properties should be maintained during storage.
3ewing thread affects the strength of the finished garment, the quality of seams
sewn and the effectiveness with which equipment can be used4 hence correct
selection is essential.
Embroider%
,mbroidery threads must be consistent with the performance characteristics of
the base fabric
,mbroidery threads must match the base fabric and remain colour fast
Direct embroidery motifs must have the backing of soft tissue or interlining
removed"if present$ prior to delivery
,mbroidery must be correctly positioned and aligned. ,mbroidery threads must
be securely tied off and clipped. ,mbroidery must appear flat without pucker
or distortion.
Accessor% A##lication and Detailing
Pockets
Inseam #ockets
The lining should not extend past the hem or facing of the garment
2penings angular or on bias to be reinforced to prevent stretching. Twill or
seam tape to be used for this purpose
3eams should lie flat without pulling or puckering edges have been finished as
the fabric and location demand
(ining fabric, if used for the pocket bag, is durable, appropriate, and has the
same care requirements as the fabric "dyeing, shrinkage and fabric structure$
The body of the pocket has been anchored where possible to maintain position
and prevent sagging
The edges of the pocket opening are the same size, with no puckering or pulling
on either side
0ocket lining is recessed enough so as to not show during movement or while
sitting
!las$ed #ockets
2penings, flaps, and welts have been interfaced where necessary for body and
shape maintenance
!laps, when present, are the same length as the welts and lie flat
!ashion fabric if applied to the pocket lining should be directly beneath the
pocket opening when buttonholes or narrow single welts are used, to prevent
the lining from showing when the pocket is being used
!abric triangles formed at the ends of the slashed openings are secured with
bartacks or several small stitches to prevent holes from developing when the
pocket is being used
0aired pockets are identical in length and width and are equidistant from the
garment edge
0ockets lie flat without pulling, twisting or puckering
Applied pockets
0ockets were cut on grain and any fabric designs were matched. f a biased cut
was used, pockets were not stretched and have been properly stabilized with a
lining
The corners are free of any raw edges or any lining fabric visible
'urves, if present are smooth and sides are symmetrical
0aired pockets are the same height, size and shape
The location on the turning point of lined pockets is not visible from the right
side
(inings do not roll to the right side at the edges of the pocket, but remain out of
sight
f used, top stitching is an equal distance from the edges at all points
An appropriate stitch length has been used, and all loose thread ends have
been removed
0ockets and flaps lie flat without puckering, twisting sagging or rolling
!tandards &or evaluating waistline &acings
The facing is cut so that it5s grainline matches the garment grainlines
The facing lies flat and smooth against the garment
6o seam wells are evident at any point on the facing
The raw edges of the facing are finished appropriately
Belt loops or thread carriers, if present, are securely attached, evenly spaced,
and identical in size and construction
At any opening"s$ in the garment, the facing is neat, flat and concealed