the presentation is about how to construct a fabric with good feel and to acheieve correct weight, width and Feelings.
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The presentation discusses different types of fabrics including woven and knitted fabrics. It focuses on circular knitted fabrics, their parameters and construction methods.
The main types of fabrics discussed are woven fabrics and knitted fabrics. Woven fabrics are made using a warp and weft, while knitted fabrics are made through loop formation. Some common knitted fabric varieties mentioned are jersey, rib, interlock, pique and fleece.
The main parameters considered for knitted fabrics are GSM, width, and shrinkage. Any deviation from these can lead to heavy losses. The major fabric structures discussed are single jersey, rib, and interlock, which account for 90% of knitted fabrics.
CIRCULAR KNITTED FABRICS
@ TEA-ERC 27-10-2009
Presentation by CBC Fashions Asia Pvt Ltd., Tirupur – India
Structures • GSM • Single Jersey • Width • RIB • Shrinkage • Interlock Any deviation in the All our knitted fabrics are 90% based on above parameters these 3 Kinds only lead to heavy loss Construction of Circular Knitted Fabrics • Our conventional method of fabric construction is basically Trial and Error Method which is time and cost consuming • Using Starfish Predictions from Cotton Technology International we can construct our fabrics based on calculations • Main aspect for fabric construction is the Fabric Feeling or Tightness Factor (TF) Fabrics Based on Feeling
• Tight Fabric – Problems – Streks, Needle Holes,
Holes, Colour shading, Slubs etc • Loose Fabric – Problems – See thru, Shrinkage, Spirality, Unstable, Deform etc • Normal Fabric – Good, optimum performance, proper fit, retains shape, stable, clean and smooth surface etc., Tightness Factor • How to differentiate the Tight fabric, Loose Fabric and Normal fabric? • Tightness Factor is the proper measuring tool for the fabric feeling. • TF = √Tex Count ÷ LL in cms for 1 loop • Tex Count = 590.46/Ne Count
• Ex. Tex Count = 590.46/30’s = 19.682
• Ex. TF = √19.682 ÷ .29 = 15.29 TF value for Regular Fabrics
S.Jersey Rib 1 x 1Interlock2T Fleece
Normal 15.5 15.5 12.5 15 Face /
1.5 Loop Innerwear 14.5 14.5 12.0
TF is inversely proportional to LL and so
Outerwea 16.5 16.5 13.5 if LL is more then TF=14 is Less which means the fabric is rmore loose if LL is less then TF=18 is more which means the fabric is more tight Using Star Fish Predictions • Based on the TF we need to construct our fabrics using the Star Fish predictions • Width GSM and Shrinkage is affected mainly due to Yarn Count and LL. • Diameter, Gauge, RPM, No of Needles, Feeders per Inch are not much important factor for cost saving. • If you exactly know Finishing GSM, Finishing Dia, Finishing Shrinkage, Exact Yarn Count, Machine Gauge and Machine Limitations, then the star fish predictions can help you select the knitting Dia. • Gauge is selected based on the yarn count selected Tex Count From Yarn
• Lea Method – Need Length in yards
and Weight in grams • Count = 64.8/Lea Weight in grams • 1 Lea = 120 yards • 80 rotations in Wrap Reel = 120 yard • 1 rotation in wrap reel = 1.5 yards • 7 lea = 1 hanks = 840 yards Tex Count From Fabric • Tex Count = (Yarn Length in Inches ÷ Weight in grams ) x 0.015 Or • Tex Count = ( Yarn Length in cms ÷ Weight in grams) x 0.0059
• Find out the LL from fabric is unraveling
• Then do find yarn count from the above • Construct your fabrics • No of 840 yards in 1 pound = Count • 1 pound = 454 grams • 1 yard = 0.914 mtrs • 120 yards = 1 Lea • 7 Leas = 7 x 120 yds = 840 yds = 1 hanks • 454gms ÷ 7 Lea = 64.8 gms for 1 lea of 1’s • 840 yds = 1 hanks = 1 pound or 454 gms • 1 pound = 1 x 840 yds = 840 yds = 1’s • 1 pound = 2 x 840 yds = 1680 yds = 2’s • 1 pound = 10 x 840 yds = 8400 yds = 10’s • 1 pound = 20 x 840 yds = 16800 yds = 20’s Single Jersey 150 gsm 30’s count 24gg Knitting Quality Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3
Yarn Count, Ne30 28.5 28.5
Stitch Length mm2.68 2.84 2.852 Course Length in cm604.6 640.7 643.4 Tightness Factor Cgs16.56 16.03 15.96 Finishing Course/cm20.08 18.88 Wales/CM14.97 14.27 Weight g/sq.mtr150.7 150.6 150.1 Width cm29.64 31.1 36 Yield m/Kg4.4 4.2 Length Shrinkage5 5 5 Width Shirnkage5 5 5 The star fish predictions are available for - Single Jersey - 1 x 1 Rib - 2 x 2 Rib - Interlock - 2t Fleece - 2 Tuck Pique - 1 Tuck Pique Benetton 8110 2 x 2 Rib Live Example
• 2 x 2 Rib 220 gsm required
• Selected count 30’s so gauge 18 • LL = 27.5 cms for K.Dia = 26 • Actual count = 27.8Ne = Tex 21.23 • TF = 16.75 • Result GSM=240, width=16 Shrinkage = L -1% & W-5% • LL can be raised to 29.5 to get lesser gsm with same count or try to get exact count at 28.5 then the LL @ 28.5cms. • Result awaited. Quality Customer Service • By doing the fabric construction in the scientific way we can construct a good fabric, with exact requirements regarding the gsm, width and shrinkage, by this way we can save a lot of time and money, which is ultimately resulting in the customer satisfaction. • Construct your fabric and take 1 mtr of fabric and do 3 times washing and 3 times tumble dry and review the resultant GSM and Resultant Dia. Shrinkage is Nil. More Information Contact