TRAVEL

Lisbon ticks
all the boxes
Hop aboard an eco tuk to enjoy the unspoilt
Iberian beauty that abounds in Portugals capital
WORDS COLIN DONALD

ATURAL beauty, fascinating

history, favourable climate,
friendly locals, monuments
galore, cool street art,
outstanding value for your
euro, vibrant bars... Lisbon
is a city that ticks any box you wish to
add to your checklist.
A great way to equip yourself with a
potted history of the Portuguese capital
before starting to explore is a visit to
the Lisboa Story Centre.
Two of the most significant events
that have helped shape modern
Lisbon are the Great Earthquake of
1755, and the 25 April Revolution of
1974, a military coup that overthrew a
dictatorship without a shot being fired
and paved the way for democracy.
The earthquake, followed by raging
fires and a tsunami, rained terror on
Lisbons inhabitants on All Saints Day
260 years ago, and although it brought
the city to its knees, it also generated
a powerful reaction of positivity to
rebuild Lisbon and unite the people.
The Lisboa Story Centre is tucked
away in Comercio Square or Praca do
Comercio, a waterfront beauty spot
that has views of the Augusta Street
Triumphal Arch in one direction and
the Tagus River in the other, framed
by the formidable 25 April Bridge a
twin of San Franciscos Golden Gate
version and Scotlands own Forth Road
Bridge. Another familiar figure looks
over to the city from across the river
the Monument to Christ, which can be
reached by ferry and was inspired by
the statue in Rio de Janeiro.
Lisbon is a melting pot of many
foreign influences, with a rich historic
tapestry dominated by royals, Romans,
Visigoths and Moors. All of the rulers
used the citys castle as a seat of power,
and while it took an almighty battering
from the earthquake and various violent
episodes, it is now a place of wonderful
serenity. It takes the name of St George
now, doffing a cap to the fruitful
relations the city has long enjoyed with
England and its British cousins.
Our mode of transport to view the
castle and the maze of quaint streets

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that lead there was a speedy electric

tuk tuk. The famous No 28 tram (more
of which later) will also take you up to
the castle.
Our guides Fernando and Hugo were
fonts of knowledge pretty nifty drivers
too and the pride and passion they
took in their city and its colourful tales
enhanced the experience.
The view from the castles ramparts
does not disappoint. You can only
marvel at the beauty stretched out
below row upon row of pretty pastel
coloured roofs. Unspoilt Iberian beauty.
And on the subject of beauty, look out
for the castles resident peacocks. The
sight of one had us all scurrying for
cameras to capture the moment, only
to quickly discover there are umpteen
of these birds and picture opportunities
can be grabbed at leisure.
After scrambling back on board
our eco tuk, we stopped off at the
cathedral, the Miradouro Das Portas
do Sol viewpoint, gazing over medieval
Lisbon, and then on to the twiceweekly flea market. No aggressive
salesmanship here, instead a relaxed
vibe and just about everything and
anything on show. I did swither over a
framed picture of the great footballer
Eusebio, but I didnt want to offend
our hosts on the trip from Turismo de
Lisboa Carmo and Joao who were

both avid fans of Benficas great rivals,

Sporting.
Back in town we had time to stroll
through Baixa, the citys downtown,
and the trendy Chiado district. The
bars we visited were welcoming, but
for a true Lisbon experience try a shot
of ginjinha, a sweet and punchy cherry
liqueur. The queue stretching out of a
shop that has served the city for more
than a century shows the popularity of
this exotic nip.
Food and drink here are affordable
for a European capital and the meals we
enjoyed were of the highest standard.

The cool Ministerium, off Praco do

Comercio, is worth checking out, as is
Deutos da Se for a more traditional sitdown meal, and the innovative Mercado
de Campo de Ourique a trendy indoor
market that allows you to select your
meal from stalls catering for all tastes.
If youre a fan of salted cod (bacalhau),
youre in luck, as the people of Portugal
swear by it and legend has it that there
are 365 recipes to try.
The most memorable meal we had
was clinched by the entertainment that
accompanied it. Fado, the traditional
music of Portugal, is hauntingly

HISTORIC Top, Praca Comercio Square. Above left, an electric eco tuk. Above right, Belem Tower and Jeronimos Monastery. Photographs: Thinkstock
8 February, 2015 SCOTLANDonSUNDAY

Do Not disturb

Duisdale House Hotel

& Restaurant, Skye

fact file
Fly to Lisbon with TAP Portugal (www.flytap.
com) from Manchester or London. I flew
from Edinburgh to Manchester with flybe.
TAP operates year-round flights to Lisbon
from London Heathrow, London Gatwick
and Manchester with fares, including taxes,
starting from 62.98 pp return.
Accommodation at Turim Hotel, www.
turim-hotels.com double rooms with
breakfast start from 150/114 per night.
More information at www.visitlisboa.com;
www.Ecotuktours.com;
www.lisboastorycentre.com;
www.pasteisdebelem.pt. Fado dinner and
performance at www.mariadamouraria.pt

SCOTLANDonSUNDAY 8 February, 2015

fish and birds, split into four oceans

and full of educational pointers and
conservation tips.
Lisbon had so much to offer I couldnt
possibly see it all in one trip. But I
did, thankfully, get to bag two tourists
musts in my three-day trip.
The first was an unforgettable
journey on the No 28 tram which
takes in many of Lisbons most famous
districts, and for less than 3. It was a
thrilling timewarp, as these trams are
faithfully the same inside and out as
they were a century ago.
The second must was a visit to the
Belem Tower and Jeronimos Monastery,
a World Heritage site, surrounded
by parks, which takes you back to
Portugals golden age of explorers.
This is handily located for a visit to
the Museum of Modern Art, and the
Discoveries Monument, built in 1960 to
honour the 500th anniversary of Henry
the Navigators death.
Next to the monastery is Antiga
Confeitaria de Belem Portugals most
famous cafe, selling the renowned
Pasteis de Belem. The recipe is secret,
but these flaky vanilla cream pastries
are recognised as unbeatable. Dont be
put off by the queues, you are quickly
seated and fed this delectable treat.
Visiting Lisbon was a treat too
never have I been so taken with a first
visit to a European city.

and soup. Mains of hake and sea bass

came with sublime pea risotto and
winter vegetables, all washed down
with an Australian Shiraz McHenry
Hohnen, Margaret River. Crumble
and custard had a Drambuie kick
and the cheese board of Isle of Mull
Cheddar, Dunsyre Blue, Inverlochy
Goats Cheese and Morangie Brie
made this caseophile melt.
WORTH GETTING OUT OF BED FOR
Head for the southernmost tip of
Skye and walk to the lighthouse for
stunning views of Eigg and Rum.
Detour to the sheltered, sandy beach
at Camas Daraich, where you can lie
like seals on the rocks and let the
pale winter sun and a nip of single
malt warm you while you gaze.
An easier stroll is the Fairy Pools
in Glen Brittle, and when weather
allows, The Quirang for its Lord
Of The Rings landscape cant be
beaten. If distilleries are your thing,
go to Talisker, Skyes oldest working
example at Carbost (adults 8/
children from eight years up, 3).
LITTLE EXTRAS
With snow on the ground no-one
braved the hot tub, but the biggest
little extra is the house yacht, Solus
a Chuain (trips available from April
to September from 145 per person
including lunch). If you really want
to push the boat out, you can get
married on board too. Oh go on.
GUESTBOOK COMMENTS
Duisdale is like wrapping yourself
in a fur throw and luxuriating in
front of a log fire. Which could be
arranged.
Janet Christie
Duisdale House Hotel, Isle Ornsay, Sleat,
Isle of Skye IV43 8QW (01471 833202,
www.duisdale.com)
Doubles from 79pp for b&b, 128 for dinner,
b&b until 31 March. Two-night Valentine breaks,
doubles from 209, four posters from 268,
including dinner, b&b, plus Champagne in your
room and free use of hot tub. Winter Special
Offer, three nights for the price of two, b&b,
from 147. See website for full details of rates

Spectrum

melancholic, and it was a real privilege

to see the male and female vocalist and
guitarists perform with such gusto in
the intimate setting of a Fado House,
in this case the cosy Maria da Mouraria.
A citys history is usually the No 1
fascination for me, but Lisbon literally
added a whole new dimension in
1998 when the Expo came to town.
An industrial area to the east of the
city was given a makeover and the
centrepiece of this futuristic Parque
das Nacoes district is the Oceanario de
Lisboa, one of the largest aquariums
in Europe and home to 25,000 sharks,

F YOURE looking for a romantic

getaway, look no further than the
hotel voted Island Romantic Hotel
of the Year at the Scottish Hotel
Awards, 2014. Duisdale also had
the judges in the Style and Wedding
venue categories swooning, and when
it came to the Scottish Thistle Awards
in 2013, they fell in love and declared
it the Best Hotel In Scotland. Nearby
sister hotel, Toravaig House, also
won Island Hotel of the Year and the
Hospitality Team Gold Medal.
Built in 1865 as a hunting lodge,
Duisdale has been given a makeover
by owners Anne Gracie and Ken Gunn
to turn it into the perfect romantic
retreat. For a start theres the location
on the Sound of Sleat, where the land
rushes down to meet the sea and the
mountains of Knoydart and the Nevis
Range rush up across the water. Then
theres the 2 AA rosette food, chi-chi
interiors and solicitous staff whose
enquiries as to your days plan have
a purpose if you dont return from
your walk up the Cuillin, you can rely
on them to raise the alarm.
BUDGET OR BOUTIQUE?
Boutique, from the flock wallpaper to
the four posters. A card in our room
bearing the William Blake quote,
exuberance is beauty said it all.
ROOM SERVICE
There are 18 rooms decorated in
contemporary style, some with
four posters, others with kingsized beds. All have mini bars, TV
and the all-important tea making
facilities romance not being fuelled
by bucks fizz alone. Naturally, with
romance paramount, the first thing
you do on being shown your room
is test the bed. My assistant took a
running jump at the four poster and
bounced off the other side through
the open door of the en suite, from
where he pronounced the mattress
springy. So far so good. And since
he was in the en suite anyway, he
was able to declare the shower, sink
and WC spotless and approve the
complimentary toiletries.
WINING AND DINING
Head chef Peter Cullen and team
are to be congratulated on food that
didnt put a foot wrong, and the
restaurant was full with residents,
and locals happy to brave the icy
roads for dinner (45pp, or la
carte). When a restaurant has two
AA rosettes, dining is an event and
from breakfast to dinner, and at
afternoon tea in between, the kitchen
rose to the occasion. The food
was one explosion of flavour after
another. Meals can also be eaten in
the Chart Room bar, but with Narnia
outside, we were drawn like moths to
the candlelit dining room.
Canaps served on sofas in front
of the fire included salmon mousse,
curd cheese and chives, ham and
marmalade on soda bread. Through
in the dining room a flirty little
amuse bouche heralded irresistible
appetisers of slivers of duck, venison
and beef, before starters of fishcakes

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